Engine work rotten abandoned ford

Working on the engine - Alternator,- Throttle Body,- Injectors,- Valve Cover

[@justaskingstoke6139]

good work

[@peterpaliwoda1527]

John “ prize “ ? ..we should be sending you a prize ….you’re a mechanical hero man ….rock on , luvin it … Good Luck ..Peter P

[@danielclarke8507]

Thanks for giving me the motivation to work on my project car. Lol

[@johnmorrison9072]

Any time buddy thank you

[@jobeblogs4539]

Undo the power steering line bolts to the left and right of shield, carefully raise the pipe up / forward and cable tie it to the engine crane /chain mounting point at the front. Then lift shield out the way with a lot of alpha masculine swearing and wiggling. When you stick the next alternator in, replace the coolant temperature sensor which is located under the alternator just below the inlet port. This sensor is critical for the fans to work properly and the fans simply won't go on once it stops measuring temperature correctly. It is a pain to replace when it goes and requires the alternator out to reach so a bit of preventative maintenance for you there. As for the air filter, these cars get incredibly hot in the engine bay, I'm taking a shot in the dark but assume that is why the facelift model changed the grills on both the front bumper and the badge area. I run with the original filter system because it is designed bloody well, just get one of these mate: Genuine Ford Air Duct (Part No: 1212560). Was designed for the 2.0 and will get that snorkel sucking that fresh, cold, condensed English air from the radiator chamber which is partitioned away from the hot spots! A bit of Naturally Aspirated intercooler action for under £30.

[@flycorvus]

High5, thanks! :-) That bloody shield removal process is a pain in the @ss, needs a ton of patience. I made it when I changed the cat and O2 sensors on my 1.8zetec last summer.

[@Drew-Dastardly]

Fully agree. The stock 2.0 Automatic air duct is an easy and cheap upgrade and Ford engineers designed it for a reason. Note the Manual 2.0 has the same slam panel arrangement and snorkel as this 1.8.

[@Drew-Dastardly]

Go back to stock air filter. These aftermarket ones give a nice induction noise (I think something similar can be done by removing the stock resonator). But the supposed +10HP that is only ever detected by the arse dyno and never in reality is just that. If anything they take in warm engine air and so must be more inefficient surely? The main reason to ditch them is you have to answer the question to "engine mods" on every insurers website and that means an instant £100+ per year uplift on your premium.

[@FoCuSonWaR]

love your work, you spend a lot of time on it i can tell for sure. i'm doing a restoration on my focus right now, some thing i will let do to a garage like some welding at the back suspension mounts after a complete revision of the suspension. i do have a question for you if you don't mind. my car a zetec 2.0 pulls up but when i deacellerate it hesates or stumbles, do you have an idea what this could be? much regards from Belgium

[@johnmorrison9072]

Hi, sorry for late response unfortunately I don’t really know what could be causing that problem as I’ve not experienced it myself. I would have to research the issue. My first thoughts is possibly the idle air control valve sticking but cannot be sure. Sorry I couldn’t be much help in this situation if I do discover the reason I will let you know.

[@FoCuSonWaR]

Thank you, i also will look in this. keep it up :-)@@johnmorrison9072