NO SPARK, NO START, NO PROBLEM! IGNITION SYSTEMS

ENGINE CRANKS BUT DON'T START? DON'T WORRY!
ERIK THE WRENCH IS HERE, WE TEST FOR FUEL, TEST THE COIL AND DISTRIBUTOR / IGNITION.
I ALSO INTRODUCE HOW MY WEB PAGE WORKS FOR YOU, AND EVEN GIVE PART NUMBERS FOR MY 76 IH SCOUT II TERRA 345!!! I ALSO EXPLAIN ALL OTHER DISTRIBUTOR DRIVEN IGNITION ENGINES!!! PL
PLEASE SUBSCRIBE!
ENJOY!
www.BUzZzED.info/IH

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

oh my bad, a 4cyl coil is not 1.6Ω like the 8..., it is 3Ω for the 4

[@MrCanada22]

Bro you explain stuff perfect and my 72 Buick Skylark literally started bogging out at 30 miles an hour like it was getting too much fuel what's your thoughts Could It Be Me screwing with the front needle adjustment too much out of whack or timing too far advanced

[@waterboards6349]

I have a 1971 ford thunderbird my car is doing the same thing when I change my coil it fired up drove it all that day I parked it for a couple of days went to try to start it no start

[@tylerreese6205]

I've replaced modules, pick ups, breaker plates , you know stumbling around not knowing how I fixed it, but I got pretty good at doing what I didn't know. You've made it make sense to where I can at least understand it as much as a person like myself understands anything. It might not be clear as day to me , but at least it's not a dense fog. Thanks for doing the public a good service. You the man.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

people overcomplicate everything.... sometimes intentionally, sometimes people are taught by, well, not every dr is good dr, not every mechanic is good mechanic, every teacher is not there because they love to teach, most teachers or dr's or lawyers or mechanics are just there for a pay check, and they only know enough to get by......... a big help was, my auto teacher in high school made us draw every part. it didnt have to be to scale, but it had to work, every jet passage or every hydro passage on a master, what ever it was, every bearing every ring it had to work.

[@apostlezyenzojere6864]

0

[@grahamsmith5768]

You are a very extremely intelligent guy. Your ao precise and accurate,

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

with logic devices yes, now if I can just figure people out i just might make a couple bucks one of these days lol

[@jimmccoy9581]

This is the smartest mechanical genius I ever listened to

[@easyhangit604]

Nice! I wasn't even looking for help like this. I was looking how to wire a coil in a 76 vw 1600. I watched the whole video because of the way you were explaining everything that could be wrong. Good freaking job!!!

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

I man if i can figure out exactly what I did right with this one video that almost carries the whole channel I could quit my job lmao

[@easyhangit604]

@10xH . A lot of guys DIY watch videos to get an idea how tough it will be. I'm not good at diagnostics so when you showed and explaind all the things that could be bad, I t helps with that decision. Plus the calm and methodical way you presented yourself.

[@tracydavis1079]

This guy is one of the best they are around as far as explaining and showing you a video on a like this it would be very easy to work on anything after watching his video thanks Tracy Davis

[@rickyrick9328]

I want to sincerely thank you for this video. I have been catching hell trying to get my Charger to start after letting it sit over a year. I had it in my mind that it was the fuel pump. Then I was thinking I didn't install it right. Could not get it to start. Was thinking of replacing the distributor, ignition module.. etc.. just guessing. Your video DID THE TRICK! I ohmed out the coil just like you showed and compared it to two other coils (one brand new) and that was the issue. That 440 is running like a champ now. I cannot thank you enough.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

RIcky Rick my pleasure!

[@TorresFord]

MY 77 F350 always starts up. today no crank and nothing. was about to call a mechanic to come check it out. saw your vid. did the steps and everything was working until i switched the ignition module. started up instantly. thank you sir. Thanks to you, i learned something new today.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

@@TorresFord thats awesome!

[@kevinbrookes4373]

They man thanks my 1969 Charger 440 magnun, worked well, parked it the garage, all of a sudden no spark, with your video checked the coil with the volt meter, it was bad, swapped it out now back to normal. Cheers awesone dude, saved me a ton of money. Great respescts from Canada

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

lol my great grandpa snuck in here from Canada as a flying trapeze in the circus, they should have built a wall. buahhhhh. Im not left or right, all I can say is, bush got elected said he was gonna build an electric fence, the only place they didnt do the fence and monitor system was in the only two places you could actually swim across the river..... Then trump in 2002 on Tv was asked why he dropped out the race, he said he wasn't gonna beat bush. he was asked when will we finally have a Libertarian president, he said when their ready for me. and I quote "George bush went on Fox News, said he was gonna build a fence, got all the redneck votes, so im gonna go on fox as a republican and say im going to build a wall". sheeple!

[@edhoffa4685]

65 corvair how do I test the voltage regulater ?

[@richarddenney9984]

Dude this is one of the best troubleshooting videos I've ever seen you're awesome dude!

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Logic and reason, its actually easier than just going through motions and collecting a pay check, and a lot less frustrating lmao

[@shado7418]

Fighting with my 1959 Massey Ferguson, with this problem. Thanks for your video, it's a great help.👍

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

sweet! i restored a 63 case few years back!

[@mutedrumsdaddy3108]

Only real ass people can admit when axing themselves right in the face. Great work dude!

[@1hernandez78]

Yeah that deodorant is ok

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

see I missed that, I thought if you never do stupid shit you never build a tolerance to pain to continue doing stupid shit lmao

[@jacobsladdertreetech2829]

Thanks for the effort you put into this video! Took my 76 Ford dump truck to the mechanic but every one of them in town is to lazy to diagnose like this. They just say to run it until it won't then bring it in. If you want it done right sometimes you have to do it your self.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Got the one on pertronix and vacuum gauge power tuning is part two. A vacuume gauge will.tell.you most mechanical issues. The next one in putting out is on a leak down test. A leak down test.is the only way to pinpoint / prove any mechanical issue before proceeding and not just guessing but nobody wants to take the time! But it's fool proof! Even times in shops you would tell the customer it is usually this part but it's a gamble on you if we don't do a leak down test first, and 9 out of ten say no problem just change it and if it don't work well teat it????? All you can do is suggest the right way, if they think they know best or have a horseshoe up their bum, great more money for me lo!

[@jessemcklveen]

Straight to the point. Well done. Thanks and God bless

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

You to to you and yours!

[@denaliberry49]

Thank you for making a good video. Nobody can manage to break things down to regular people knowledge

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

most people are taught how to do their job, not how it actually works.

[@ricksilk485]

Nice work man ....... before I pull my carby off I'll test my coil . You have helped me today , thank you Erik the Wrench

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

how did it go and what was it?

[@bravethewildgaming8139]

Well done, full of good diagnostic info, and simple.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

thanks, this channel started as me setting strait some shit talk, and I found it fun, yet this video, I almost deleted, and so far its still my biggest hit, lmao! I been hanging in here on a thread, but i do have a shit ton and a half of videos on the editing block ready to dump on youtube steady for a while, finally found the time, well, here goes nothing... thanks again!

[@lorenteakell9427]

THANK YOU, another youtuber had me thinking my coil was fine….. it was at 8.6.

[@c-losrides4974]

Thanks man you helped me troubleshoot my ford wagon. My first carburetor car

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Sweet! I love wagons, what year

[@c-losrides4974]

@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER 1972 ford

[@JesseEdwards-is1km]

Now i like the way this guy explains it

[@ChickenMan210]

I had a new Ford Ranchero with a 351 that stopped running while driving down the road. I could smell the gas, so I knew it wasn't fuel and surmised it had to be electrical. Pulled the distributor cap and didn't see anything wrong at first. But after checking it for the third time, noticed the little rubbing block on the points was missing. I'd never seen that happen before or since to any vehicle.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

This seems to be a huge problem with the rubbing blocks on new points, better off new old stock... I love them things! I was gonna drop a Cleveland in my 80 ranger b4 I found my scout!

[@juansanchz8313]

Bro thanks for the info, i very sure i cant not make my friend car wotk i replaced coil and have same problem i remove my control module and buy new one and bang bro you are so smart thanks again

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

just sharing my research Thank You !!

[@billwood1514]

thxs that was explained better then anyone I have heard or watched bden fighting with dumb amc jeep wiring system and I think this will help more then people showing me on that system

[@dewholdingsllc1050]

Nice. Me too, a failed coil was hard to diagnose as they are fairly reliable and it was intermittently going bad until it took a crap on my PCM powered nautique middle of the lake.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

some people have luck and guess right 9 out of 10, like that one guy you know that some how wins every damn raftle or contest lmao, and some of us what can fuck up will fuck up so im quick to start right off with a vacume gauge then a full mechanical leakdown to pinpoint any issues found, then and or a full eletrical leak down... most the time.... id say even if you hit 9 out of ten, twenty miniuts of fiddeling on all 10 is less time and money wasted than the one free repair that was unnessary based on false diagnosis!

[@mashooga]

I think I finally found my future hubby!!! you ROCK!!

[@shannonsinderson7417]

I like him too and he's not even my type. He sounds like a clever dude.

[@deanjahnz9546]

@@shannonsinderson7417 If the ladies don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy... ;)

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

almost out of duct tape!

[@jezzter4106]

Good video. Very informative. You make it short , sweet and simple. Now I fully understand the coil and distributor functions and how to properly test the ignition system.

[@josephdonkers7429]

Dude a RadioShack multimeter! Never thought I’d see one of those again!

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Would you believe someone just stepped on it, that’s what I get for doing favors lol. What pissed me off, is radio shack claimed bankruptcy. That means they don’t have to pay their debts, yet they tried to come after me for the remaining balance on my RadioShack card! Wait a minute, RadioShack falters on debt but says I owe them still. Ha! Cold day in hell! I do miss being able to say put it on my account, still till they close, no card needed, just put it on my account....

[@slowpoke4557]

I have an old radio shack battery tester that barely works, and you have a new subscriber for putting out the exact video i needed!

[@katlegomohlala5545]

I have a citi golf with the same problem and i just bought a new coil but atleast now i know what could be wrong... thanks mate

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Well if your just changing parts without testing your next part is your crank or cam position sensor. It won’t spark if it’s bad

[@altpotus6913]

Sorry, my eyes glazed over when I noticed there were no points. Great information for those with newer rigs (1975 and up). Yup, I have a hard time wrapping my mind around electronic ignition. Eventually I'll have to bite the bullet and buy something from the mid 70's and maybe even the 80's! "If you're gonna be poor, don't also be helpless".

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

I am all about points, nothing wrong with points, I prefer points, this is just what my broke behind had on the shelf when my distributor wore out. the easy answer, electronic ignition is exactly like points, except, the points do not contact. they arc at a very low volt/amp, not enough to get the coil to trigger the spark, so it has a little capacitor to step up the voltage. nothing has changed in cars in 50 years (other than vvt) its all the same except us mechanics have been replaced with computers, and 9$ an hour parts changers lol and a capacitor is triggered

[@robertwelcome7973]

PROBABLY YOUR IGNITION STARTER SWITCH IN THE STEERING COLUMN,CHECK YOUR IGNITION FUSE AND ECM FUSE SEE IF THEY LIGHT UP WITH A TESTING LIGHT WHEN YOU TURN KEY ON.IF THEY DONT THAT'S YOUR PROBLEM.

[@MrTarkus007]

would of loved to see him install the part & see it start wish i would of seen this video before i sold my step van brought it to an asshole mechanic who didn't know shit but this gentleman really knows his stuff 2 thumbs up

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Thanks, and the install is in the next video, I need to put a "card" link..... Im getting ready to put my 71 metro back together next....

[@johngraham4965]

truction to fix a no/fire due to a bad pick up coil in the plate of the distributor? great info,love his concise and informa

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

second vid late response!!!!

[@dreamingcode]

I know this video is great. I'm just so new to fixing cars. Will watch till I understand.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

www.ironhammer.info/ih.html here are links to jus about all youll need to know IH wise. It helps to look at the diagrams and what have you...

[@ronhodgkinson7683]

Perfect tutorial. Having the exact same problem

[@jefffmolk9806]

thank you man looking to buy a corvette but seller says it has a no spark condition def gonna buy

[@unoefxz]

subbed, it is like an educational show for adult children, totally entertaining... "hit myself with this hatchet" hysterical!!

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

life happens!!!

[@jaythewrenchmonkey6007]

Hey Eric I must say you seem quite knowledgeable, so maybe you can help me ? After watching this video there’s a lot that comes into play in similar fashion with my 69 cougar I have crank no start no spark at the coil from either the coil or the plug wire a concern to me not knowing is I show 19 volts when the key is on at the positive of the coil not sure if that’s a good number I’ve tried switching up my points and condenser to another use set on another 69 cougar I have that has also sat for a while so I’m not sure if overtime these have gone bad too but still no spark I’ve checked wires and clean ground areas on the back of the starter solenoid and replaced the voltage regulator module I’m about to clean the ground to the engine block as I heard this could be a situation to no start even though it cranks over I have just bought a Pertonix to replace the points but sure if I should install it with that 19 V coming in at the coil when the ignition is on I don’t wanna damage anything on the pertronix what should the voltage be coming in on the positive terminal of the coil when the key is on and showing at the solenoid the same voltage? Please help thanks

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

so, right off the bat, think your meter is bad, check the battery... 19volts... that or you have dual batteries wired in series on accident... you should never get more than like 10 volts it has a big resistor to drop it down.. when you are cranking it over, it bypasses the resistor and gives it a straight 14 ish volts... for cranking, when not cranking it saves the points to run at 9.6 volts... the sure test, one end of volt meter to ground, and trace the circuit top down... probe the wire b4 and aft every switch or connector, and if the voltage is lower after any connection than b4 it, its a bad connection... just jump the coil straight to the battery and see if you got spark then, see if the coil powers up now, this will save you all day tracing wires if its just a bad coil. should be able to short the neg lead of coil to ground real fast zap, make it spark.... points can be bad new now days and its a 50 50 shot!!! so discharging the coil manually will be the easy test... Get that mean cougar back on the road!!!

[@mk2escortvan]

This starter motor sounds like my Dad's old 1978 Australian Ford Fairlane. Interesting. I'm in New Zealand. Unfortunately, we don't have it anymore, and he's dead.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

they made the 351 Cleveland down under for a while after they stopped making them here

[@bbeeprobst]

Learned something, Thanks!!

[@jacobuskai4594]

Did it fix the problem and generate a spark...

[@SuperTony26]

Helpful video man. Used your tips for a boat with a V8 305. Helped a lot! Thanks

[@skidancin]

What I have is a 351w, marinized! Have new pertronics flamethrower 2 0.6 ohm coil 45,000 volts, as recommended. on 200 ohm setting the positive to negative test settles down to 1.1...., replacing old flamethrower 2 0.6 ohm which won't settle down in that test, can fluctuate around 2.4 for a while and then around 1.5 for a while and sit still at 1.3 for a while and without breaking contact you could see any of this going on. The new flamethrower reads 10.0 or 9.96 on the 20K test to the main wire, while the old one reads 8.77. I've got gas and apparently no spark, but I also have a brand new pertronics coil and distributor. I'm losing it!

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

what is it in?

[@skidancin]

@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER1986 MasterCraft pro ski boat. Indmar conversion. 4-barrel Holly. 240 HP.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

@@skidancin and have you tried jumping the coil right to the battery

[@skidancin]

@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER no... But I do have 12 volts at the coil and replaced ends on both wires to the positive on the coil. The engine originally failed while running at 35 mile an hour. It cranks nicely I checked spark from the coil wire, it looks yellowish instead of blue and it's a brand new coil as I was saying. I'd like to think there's something wrong with my brand new parts. I don't know what readings I'm supposed to have on a new pertronics coil. Best I got was 10 where you were looking for 10.5 on your application.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

ten is fine,, is the distributor a tooth off? i assume its not a reverse spinning marine engine made for dual engine crafts.... you will need to chase each wire, check the connections, clean them, check resistance across them with the battery disconnected for resistance... clean the ground, test the battery and the altenators output, and if its all good, and you dont have a faulty ignition switch, you likely got a turd that slipped past quality control... so on the side marine engines are higher compression and need to run on at least 100 octane....

[@rjohnson5972]

Great video lots of detail thank you

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

I hack it lmao

[@bigD1988]

Nice old skool radio shack multimeter

[@omarrodriguez8964]

Perfect position for it to be stuck.... of course got me dying

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

buahhhhhhhhh

[@Earl-d5e]

Most excellent, learned a shit ton I didn't know. 🖖🇺🇸

[@jonathanclark6489]

so much value, in a concise and entertaining video! 👍👍

[@rufusmclaughlin8699]

Jonathan Clark

[@rufusmclaughlin8699]

I got a 1990 Dodge with a V6 cranks no spark

[@michaelpassionsgarage356]

I screwed up bro on my 65 stand, inline 6, I didn't tie down the battery so while driving, the positive to the battery touched the front support frame and melted the wire to the battery, not the car won't start. I fried something for sure, first I assumed it was the starter relay, I got a new one, not it. I tried a new battery still nothing, I don't have spark so I'm assuming I don't have power to the distributor, which is a HEI. What could it be? is there a way to bypass the resister wire and go direct to the distributor? did I fry the distributor or another wire? Dam!!! Rockie move man

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

yes so if power went to the body it had to get back to the neg terminal. this means the shortest easiest path. so if it went through the body it had to go through the ground strap that goes from engine to the firewall, through the engine, then to the negative cable to the battery.... so if the ground strap to the cab or body were corroded or missing it may have just went home backwards through the ignition switch, or the coil / distributor, frys computers even with a good ground half the time... So yes you can just hook it up straight to battery to test it and jump the starter, this will not be a problem, points last longer at 9 volts and its all they need, they still like 12 to start, thats why the resistor. if you dont have points you need to remove the resistor btw... so yeah check the ignition switch and jump it....

[@MoparMan-ff8fb]

No disrespect but he sounds like Casey jones from the first ninja turtles movie 😎🤘. I'm helping my dad work on his 1978 chevy truck 350 with hei distributor. It ran the other day in town then shut off . my dad had to restart the truck drove it home . rotates now but nonstart or spark. Replaced the cap rotor and coil and the 4 prong icm. Still no start? Its either the pickup coil or the starting switch mount on top of the steering column since a non tilt column ?

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Yeah just get a 5$ test light and see if it’s getting power

[@originalmetalhead73]

Great video Erik! Haven't yet gotten the P/U to run yet, but I now know the coil was bad.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

whats next on the truck!

[@timbob3689]

this is great information thank you man.

[@Smilyface509]

Hey I’m having a no start issue on my 1978 Porsche 924, I’ve replaced the faulty ignition coil (resistance measurements were off spec) however still no start, but I’ve noticed there’s 2 ballast resistors before the coil wich take the voltage down, I’ve measured them and the 1st one takes the voltage down from 12v to 8v and the 2nd one takes it down from that 8v to like 5.4V. This seems strange to me, as people say the coil needs 12v, do you think I should remove those resistors?

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

ok, on a points distributor, it runs off of 9.6 volts. you know how on the starter relay their is the bypass wire only on cars w/ points distributors. well that will bypass the resistor and give full 12.6 volts to the coil, only when cranking. once its running it goes through resistor again. you must have a bad ballast resistor circuit , sounds like someone messed with it. also, you should be reading 9.6 and 12.6 to 14.6... not 8 and 12. so also check your meter is calibrated, your battery is good, and your alt is working, and you dont have any corrosion creating a false load on the switch or relay or any of the connectors. I will put a video out on electrical leakdown test, but your coil should be getting 9.6 volts except when you are trying to start it. this is because if it ran at full voltage all the time, it would burn up the points, most of the wear on your points happens when your cranking then runs at a safe 9volts... it actually winds up making about the same spark because its still the same amperage, remember, its high amps that can kill you not volts... if you check my webpage in the IH section, its going to be universal information on most engines and wires, other than the colors and firing order... www.ironhammer.info/ih.html , and the more I think about it, Im not sure a 78 would still have points, so even weirder... their should be no resistor at all unless you have a points distributor. its possible it has some fancy dual points distributor. points are better, they just require regular maintenance..

[@Poordirtfarmer]

Hello from Suwannee County Florida

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

i been all 48 on the main land, while i did apreciate it dead winter, that humidity makes every bone in my body ache lol

[@terrymaloney3445]

Excellent explanations

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

logic works lol

[@nathanrice1796]

First time I've ever seen the inside of an IH distributor.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

yeah dodge used the prestolite too, most parts are over the counter still they aint as obscure as people think.... They where just oveer built and you paid a lot more for it...

[@EricJones_J]

My 83 olds sound like that when I'm turning ignition but not turning over!!!

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

how bout now?

[@ninja63639]

Should all coils have the same readings? for instance I have a Pertronix coil and I'm getting no spark

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

so if you would like a simpler test, put a spark test (or screwdriver) on the end of the wire directly off the coil itself. you can take a jumper wire from ground, and touch it momentarily to the neg side of coil, it will spark as long as you have power to the pos of coil!!! if not, jump power right to pos side of coil and try again, if that works your coil is not getting power or you have bad ignition switch

[@TLervis]

Great video. Picked up a lot of info.

[@edgarvazquez2486]

Lot of help thanks for share't good video keep up...Bless day

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

You too! I will have a lot more soon, got tied up paying bills lol

[@williamstrouse2921]

'85 Ford F150, 4.9L I6, 4wd. Intermittent missfires initially blamed on water in fuel. Then all stop and no spark. '85 has 2 electronic control modules...on screwed to distributor under the body and the 2nd on the passenger sided wheel well next to the starter relay. The first one can be tested and changed. Tthe 2nd is apparently vacuum switched. Cannot find testing instructions or replacement part. None available have vacuum line as part of plug-in. Your thoughts?

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

The second module is a vacuum sensor to control timing advance based on manifold pressure...

[@alcolaco2042]

Clever man! 👍

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

I just try to remove the over-complications! Turn life itself into a chopper bobber or a rat rod and everything makes sense Ha!

[@nicholasoghogho2965]

That's magnificent of you nice ideas pls keep it up!!!

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Thank you! I will be adding a lot more soon, I have a pile of them lmao.... I finally have some time carved out !

[@jordonhoward5606]

I'm pretty sure I got the same issue I've replaced the balast resistor on the firewall ,pickup coil inside the distributer, the pligs,wires,starter,alternator, fuelpump,and coil, but still nothing I've tried 3 different ignition coils still nothing I don't have a multimeter just a tac meter for small electronics for like speaker wire or fuses . When I did test the current coil on the terminals it read 100% green keep in mind its not the proper tool. But when testing the wire hole where the plug wire snaps into it drops to about 45-50% power I wouldn't think it could be the icm under my steering colum but I'm just assuming that just because it turns on off and turns the starter over without a problem it's on a 87 dodge d150 360 v8 5.9l dual pickup coil distributer

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

here schematron.org/1987-dodge-d150-wiring-diagram.html you dont have a balast resistor thats for points, the extra wire is a low oil pressure kill switch. so if the oil light is on the distributor wont fire.....

[@skidancin]

I'm thinking you tested a 1.5 ohm coil. So if I have a pertronixs 0.6 ohm coil, it should read 0.6? On the other test I only got 8.5 through the center coil wire.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

the 4 banger here has a 3 ohm coil, the 8 has 1.6ohm across terminals, the main windings, the from post to main plug wire, should read 10.5, 8.5 is low like the coil windings coating failed, and its skipping or shorting past some of the coil...

[@thelittleredbarn174]

So after following your instructions which seem to be the easiest to understand on KZbin I'm getting a reading of 8.25 which is a little lower than yours so would that mean my coil is bad? Thanks for any advice

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

yep! unless the battery imnyour meter is low l,ao

[@jeremylamb799]

Never spark test near the battery. Typical lead acid batteries occasionally vent Hydrogen gas. I saw a "Know it all" almost get his hand blown off by checking spark on the negative battery terminal with a screw driver. Other than that this is a good informative video.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

I thought I wrote not to, I only did it there for filming reasons. I honestly never heard of anybody actually having this happen or a car running at the pump blow up the town, other than from my h s shop teacher talking about the 50's, but it could under once in a blue moon conditions, no wind, hot, dry, just the right fuel air mixture lol So Yes your right, this should be avoided, or know your risks. I did have a fire extinguisher near and was safe, unless I panicked or hesitated, I was fine, worst case i would have lost wires and lines.... yet still why risk a 200$ battery! I guess what I am saying , is i always look at every situation with caution, not just red flags... So I am just adding that the more aware of your surroundings, the safer you are and less grey area. So to take it a step further, realistically we need to be always aware of every accelerant or flammable matter in every situation, of every potential weapon in the room and where every bodies hands are in relation to them... the more you know the closer to the line, the more from life! I love to learn! Just never hesitate and everything else is out of your control... thanks for pointing that out...

[@jeremylamb799]

I didn't believe it either until I saw it for my self. I have a picture of the battery somewhere.

[@montana69..]

How you know what to set the meter at ? And what numbers you were suppose to get in order to tell if it was right or not?

[@chriswest5360]

Capt. Mike Allen I have the same question as well

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

2:13

[@leespiderpod]

Thanks for taking the time to make a brilliant video

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

close buahhhh

[@philipbelliveau1267]

Thanks for video. I have 83 Jeep cj7 running 2 weeks ago. Now no spark from coil wire. Removed dist cap and found the center pin on cap had broken off and was imside dist. I have Mallory dist and ignition coil. Red wire inside dist has a break in the insulation. Went to oem dist and Accel coil also replaced ballast resistor still no spark from coil wire. I'm stumped. Aloha from Hawaii!!! Any advice??

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Ahh, well, I dont think you would have points on an 83. if so, a points distributor has a resistor to run at 9.6 volts so you dont burn the points up. It also has a bypass wire, so when you are cranking it bypasses the resistor to run a full 14.6 volts until it until it starts, but you should have a magnetic pickup. and should not have the resistor or bypass. I go over that in my video kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoHCoohtfpeharM... you either have a prestolite style or a brain box style where the circuit board is mounted outside the distributor and they go bad...

[@philipbelliveau1267]

@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER well I had Mallory coil and Mallory dist. And also note there is no icm below the washer box on the driver fender. Not sure what that's about. Replaced with a cell coil and own dist dist cap and rotor. Getting 12 volts to coil and it's pulsing properly but still not getting fire from top of coil. Bypassed the resistor and I still can't figure this out.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

well, capacitor discharge ignition has a brain box or it is mounted under the plate. thats why i show vid on installing a pertronix igniter in a prestolite distributor. or non-points mallory have the same thing like in that vid. here is how it works. under the rotor. their is a lobed wheel. and a magnetic pickup. (like a crank position sensor for new cars) when the lobe gets close to the pickup, the magnetic field is disrupted. This triggers the brain then, amplifies it with transistors/capacitors and sends signal to the coil to dump the spark, then its sent through what ever wire the rotor is pointing at under the cap. so if the circuit board is bad or the pickup is bad, it dont know to send a spark, just like if your points where not contacting....

[@Gclarkie21]

Hey any advice? I’ve replaced the ignition control module, ignition coil, distributor, and plugs with still no spark, I have a 96 f150 with a 351 Windsor and I’m running out of things to replace and money! Any advice would be appreciated!

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

With no spark at all? It could be your ignition switch, or a broken wire.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

I mean if we are looking at rare things is the engine grounded? But I would do a leakdown test. Sometimes even the pins in the bulk connectors get pushed out... but you really need to prove every connection and eliminate the basics, is everything getting power, and shirts or false loads, is the ground good, is the ignition switch good, if you jump power to the coil from. Battery... heck in computercontrolled cars a bad battery can cause issues but yours sounds like a short or a bad part, it’s pretty simple, key goes on and coil/distributor get power, Then key goes to start and everything but the coil/distributor loose power while the starter engages. When camshaft turns it turns the distributor shaft by the gear. Then the rotor points at a cylinder and the magnetic pickup tells the coil to dump the spark at said cylinder, with some interference from the control module controlling the spark. And that’s all there is to it. So if the distributor rotor is turning, and your rotor is good, and assuming your new parts are good. You must have a short

[@Gclarkie21]

ERIK THE WRENCH Turns out I bought a faulty set of ignition components, installed the original with the new distributor and crankshaft sensor and now she purrs first key turn, thanks for your help!

[@matthewodell5915]

Hey what is that spark plug thing called you are testing with

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

just an OTC spark tester, I got mine from the tool store , here is there online link www.toolmarket.com/product-spark-tester-electronic-ignition_30157.aspx

[@LeRoy-t5s]

Do you do motorcycle s , lot of us (me)struggle when they lose spark.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

I was a honda suzukie dealer mechanic for a short while lol, i actually have some bike videos, a lot of videos, all on the editing bench lol..... its hard to find the time to put them up when im trying to get caught up with my customers lol

[@chriszbodula1894]

Ok, I am curious now. I just bought a boat with a Mercruiser 3.7 that has points. It appears that I can upgrade the point system to a magnetic pick up like in your video. Is the magnet pick up all that is needed with a direct connection to the coil or is there a control module somewhere in-between.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

That's the cool thing about pertronix the control board is built in to the backing plate for the rotor! So all you need to do is remove galaxy resistor that is in line to the coils power. See that's what that r terminal is on your starter. The points run on 9v, so their is a 3v resistor in series b4 the coil... so the when starting, the resistor gets bypassed and the coil gets full voltage to help start.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Oh that's all in the second video, no spark no start sokved!

[@rodgerfolkerts4690]

I have a 1963 buick 198 v-6. Car sat 20yrs. Replaced everything electrical- power at both sides of ign. Coil- no spark at plug?? Power good between points contacts- how come no spark on plug?

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

k, points has 2 hot wires. When the key is in the run position , a wire from the ignition switch with a ballast resistor powers the coil at 9.6 volts. K, so when the key is in the start position it bypasses the resistor and gives it a full 12.6 volts to help it start. so the ignition switch itself is very common failure, it can also be a bad resistor, or even the starter solenoid. You will notice it has 2 wires. one is from the key to activate the starter, one is for the resistor bypass to start voltage.... so their are your check points, I have a wire diagram on www.bedhed.xyz/ih so with key on, you should have 9.6 volts to the coil!!! if not u have bad resistor, wire, or switch! with the key in start position, you should have 12+. if you have both, check your points or condenser, they are like 2 out of 3 bad from the factory now days!!! so unless you have major problem like the distributor aint turning.........

[@rodgerfolkerts4690]

@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER ok, I Just got out to check everything I read last night. First thing I found is the ground from the engine to the frame is broken! Does it need to be grounded to start? Next I’ll check the ignition switch. When the key is on I have power on both sides of the coil? Is that normal? Everything electrical is new, including the starter and alternator. Where is the resistor? Thx a million for your help

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

if the engine is nout grounded the distributoe is also not grounded!

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

also if its a new harness, and its not wired for points, it will burn out your points like every two months

[@rodgerfolkerts4690]

@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER there’s no wiring harness in this car. It has very few wires. Wires from ignition switch, starter relay/solenoid- voltage regulator, that’s about it. I can see all the wires and they look ok, just the ground strap was broken. The next problem is no or low compression? I pulled plugs and squirted in each cylinder. Squirted the tops of push rods and valve springs. I have a weird rocker system?? It has a rod with springs bolted down over the top of the valve springs so there’s no adjusting the rockers? U seen this type before?? Thx man!!

[@martymcclintock7373]

is this the same concept for 77 chevy monte carlo? changed spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotar and coil. car does same thing your truck is doing in this clip

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

YES SIR, IN FACT THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS WE IH GUYS TIME OFF NUMBER 8 AND NOT 1! REVERSED GM FIRING ORDER... OUR CAMS SPIN BACKWARDS BECAUSE ITS GEAR TO GEAR DRIVEN, NO CHAIN.

[@stephenkacin9683]

Very good video. Can you give me what the coil should measure at primary and secondary on a 73 ford 400 c.i.d. Galaxie? Thank you!

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Stephen Kacin, all single coil v8 the same

[@stephenkacin9683]

Thank you Erik, but i dont know what they are? 1.5 primary, 8,000 secondary?

[@stephenkacin9683]

Thanks Erik. My 73 Galaxie is showing no spark to or from the coil. Seems to be intermittent. Any ideas where to go on this gremlin? This is coil # 3.

[@bosshoggjdkk5211]

just so you know in case you havent figured it out yet. ford doesnt make a 400 ci engine galaxies most of the time have 390 engines. 400 is a gm engine.

[@TheCarTakerGarage]

Friggin awesome video dude! Cheeers from Norway :)

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Have to keep Slepnar on the road, or off! ha!

[@damonfacio249]

Great vedio bro I learned so much!😁

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

i love to learn

[@johnsarab4500]

My same situation. BUT what is causing my coil burnouts - that what I need to find.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

your coils are burning out? i would check your wires. is the coil still getting power when its off. see the system is simple. a key sends power to coil in on position through a resistor wire or a ballast resistor, giving the coil 9 volts. when starting a second wire with out a resistor gives the coil full 12 volts. or you just get straight 12 when its on if its hei. so coil has power. points or pickup tells coil to dump coil dumps charge to what ever plug the rotor is pointing at. so as you say, what could be burning up a coil. bad ground? bad plug wires? is if running on all 8? spark returning with out jumping the gap like gap closed or carboned.....

[@jonhsmith2706]

I have a 90 tbi in caprice i have fuel i only have spark coming from coil but no spark from distributor spark plug wire to the plug i changed the icm with a few new ones i still cant get spark to come out of spark plugs such an headache

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

well you have a bad distributor

[@Hellofrank35]

I replaced my uncle fuel pump, coil, filter, ecu, and the man relay! Still no crank! He has 1985 Dodge ram d150 318

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

no crank?

[@brawler1997-v6t]

Ur starter or battery

[@jayperry666]

very detailed information good video 👍👍

[@SmudgyContent]

I been having problems with the cap and rotors now adays…. I’ll go through one atleast once a month, any idea where to find a decent cap and rotor?

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

I just get the good one, Very possible your distributor bearings are loose! see if you can wiggle the shaft, also are they points? there are several other issues that can be happening if their points...

[@taylorhumes7567]

So do you get lower voltage at the coil if your pickup coil is bad or damaged? What if the gap between the pickup coil and the reluctor isn't adequate? Could that also cause a drop in voltage at the coil?

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

The coil is charged like a capacitor right, straight 12-14volts. goes to the coil. unless its points then it gets 9.6v! As soon as it can ground out, and complete the circuit, it does. It does this through the cap and rotor and goes to what ever plug wire its pointing at.

[@jonhsmith2706]

Was it the pick up

[@frankmontez6853]

Hey I just heard that ignition switch could be responsible for stalling not just my cranking problem. Can switch be responsible for it dying after I do get it to crank/ start ? And it does have a cranking/ starting problem with it half the time starting/ cranking sometimes will and sometimes won’t

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

its possible. if its that worn out like a light switch you jave to jiggle. it might be that worn out that its hardly makjng contact and heating up

[@bortnerfamilyadventures1369]

Hi I have a 1969 Cadillac , I am having a similar issue , I have no voltage DC at the coil when trying to start , what do you think ?

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

The relay bypass, the coil has a resistor and it’s only 9.6 volts. It gets a full 12.6 volts on crank only . This saves the points from burning up too fast. So this is all related to the r and s terminals on your starter relay.

[@ramirogovea3092]

I have a 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger with a 318 motor. It won’t start up and I’ve done some tests on it. I took off the Electronic Ignition Box from the firewall (I saw the melted sludge coming from the back) and figured this might be the reason it won’t start. I’m not getting spark on any wires. Do you know how I can test it?

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

99% of the time if the oil goo is leaking out its shot. If you want to test Check the manual to know what terminal is what, and see if it sends a signal to the coil. The wire that activated the coil to dump spark.... The ICM or CDI it’s just inline between the distributor and the coil. But it may be off time just because it pulses... The next video shows how to remove it and install a pertronix kit. This is a ICM that goes inside the distributor, no more exposed box. Ignition Control Module = Capacitor Discharge Ignighter

[@ramirogovea3092]

@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER Thank you!!! I have ordered one already at the local parts store and tomorrow I will be changing it. Thank you very much for the reply, I appreciate it!!

[@ramirogovea3092]

@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER I replaced it right now and I still don't get spark. I did check the coil and it tested out well (over 10.4). I checked different wires and no spark. I am stumped and thinking about buying the pickup coil to see if that is what is wrong. If you can see my video, I have posted what I replaced just to show you how the goo looked. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpLQgaSep7GHfbc

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

I’ll watch it, but right off the bat you removed and bypassed the old box right

[@ramirogovea3092]

@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER I removed it and connected the new one and tried it.

[@franklopez2846]

Hey Iron Hammer, can I do this same test on a 2002 Nissan Sentra? I have a no star, no spark, cranks condition. I have come to think it is the coils. I don't get spark when is connected to the harness and crank the engine when I put a screwdriver. Does it need to be close to body engine? Does a Nissan also have that module?? I don't know where it is. Thank you.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Newer cars are the same, only that module would actually be outside of your distributor on your engine and called a "crank position sensor", they go bad and wont trigger any codes...

[@franklopez2846]

Hello Iron Hammer, thanks for your reply. I did change a brand new crank sensor and new battery. I am still not getting spark in any coil. Could this be from the signal in the coil harness to the ECM? Is so, can you please tell me how I can check to see if I am getting it? I know I am getting close....thank you.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

yes coils go bad you need the book to know what the resistance should be, on your model, You could use a test lite to see if the pos on coil is getting a signal from ecm, like is it pulsing a signal when you crank, but also some crank position sensors need be gaped... yes could be a fuse/connection/wire in path of ecm, some times pins in bulk connectors get pushed out... here is how i diagnose electronics, even down to circuit board level, [Step A> Visual inspection for obvious] now [Step B> Dis-connect battery and test for short with ohm meter on + & - and circuits naturally closed (temp sensors may be partially open if not cold!) wiggle wires when doing so, now start turning stuff on, if the ohm meter shows a open path w/o any resistance that is a short circuit,] [-now you may have a false load! so C> "VOLTAGE DROP TEST" you put the ground of voltmeter on battery ground, and test the voltage before and after each connection, if it is not the same, their is your false load. (a 12 volt bulb should read 12-14 before and pretty much 0 after.)

[@TheTileplace]

very informative cheers man

[@HiLineTree]

Charge that battery and crank with that spark tester clipped on it. If the battery explodes💥🔥... you have spark. 😳

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

nah, lot of myths, they have merit, like the whole thing of batteries draining on the floor, thats from when they came in wood cases! Half of it is insurance company bs..... Did you know that a lap belt is better than a single shoulder strap, unless you have a x or two of them, its instant spinal damage and whiplash.... the odds of half this shit like your car running while pumping gas exploding, would mean every wire short on every car would blow up the gasstations or your battery.....

[@itrstt66]

I'm less than a beginner, so my question is the values of impedance and voltage you talk about are standar values for lets say petrol engines, or do they vary accordingly with something for instance, brand or every engine is buit to run with a certain kind of impedance or voltage and those values are provided by the manufacturer.If myquestion turns to be a bit confusing, i mean how do you know the right reference values when it comes to electricity?

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

jose pontes , some heavy equipment might be 24 volt, and some old cars, pre late 60,s, where 6 volt ( and most have been converted to 12 by now) But otherwise even semi-trucks and motorcycles are all 12 volt. (Or 14.6 running). The resistance on the coil will be the same for all v8 petrol, propane, alcohol....or close to it, oh, some old motorcycles and mopeds are 6volt as well... but we're talking 70,s When doing leakdown test you will need to know the resistance of what ever part your testing, manufacturer specific according to manual, but if you buy the Haynes manual for obd2 codes they have general numbers that are good most the time... also voltage divided by amperage equals resistance, if you know the amps... I will make a video on leakdown test soon, I have so many videos I haven't had time to upload yet! Just been busy at work....

[@itrstt66]

Many thanks for such a teaching answer. I'll be looking forward for those videos. cheers

[@davidleach641]

jose pontes 1999 1997 Chrysler no fire what do I do

[@davidleach641]

jose pontes I need to know if a 1997 Chrysler convertible it has no fire how do I bypass to the coil pack

[@davidleach641]

jose pontes.

[@PlatinumGaming330]

Where are the coils found? Also what was it that you tested for spark the second time?

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

FOLLOW THE WITE FROM THE CENTER OF DISTRIBUTOR CAP TO THE COIL.

[@williamstrouse2921]

New Control Module and have found and installed new MAP Sensor and problem persists...with a twist...mis seems to occur only when driving down hill...power good up hill and on level roads. Everything i've read indicates engine cannot be re-timed because the electronics get in the way. So, if i set #1 at TDC with rotor pointing there, then hand crank engine to 10deg BTDC and lock down the distributor, is it correct to presume that the electronics will do the rest? One more consideration...i live at 7200' altitude and seldom drive below 5,000' altitude.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

If it is an IH power plant, it gets timed off number 8cyl! the camshaft turns the opposite direction due to the cam is a direct gear drive, no chain.... Also at higher altitude you have to rejet your carb, but your computer should adjust on injection...should... it is possible the injector is dirty or bad fuel pressure. so with out the backpressure from going up or level, it would show the lean symptoms more.... can even be something in the tank floating around.... filter... pump... the pressure regulator... so I would test for pressure... Also Map sensor must be clean clean clean and with map cleaner, if you got anything on it it will fail, also get the voltage specs and see if the map sensor has a broken wire running to it.... If you do not set the timing to factory usually you need a chip or a computer flash.... Not sure what your working with... how steep a degrade? the wrong gear even lol Are you getting any codes? even spark plug wires routed wrong can send false signals and trick the module! you dont need to adj mechanical timing for alt... You may need hotter or colder spark plugs if you have modified the timing, a colder plug will transfer heat faster out the chamber... so is it a random multiple missfire or a particular cyl? random is usually from lean or bad timing.... can also have worn springs on the advance weights in dist or a sloppy shaft....

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

even if you disconnected the egr or messed with the pcv.... Egr actually was a way to trick emission test. see they lowered compression to pass, and gave it an egr, so that on idle its a lower compression... The the recirculated exhaust dont compress like the air, so it raises your compression under a load! might be bad... with out the pcv it will run rich if you dont compensate...

[@vinnis5637]

where are the multimeter's leads attached when testing the distributor pick up coil? The video does not indicate that after testing the ecu.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Vinnis in the next video there is even more on it on Petronius upgrade

[@ScruffyBueno]

What do you do when you changed the control module, ignition coil, cleaned distributor points, get the truck to start then next day nothing.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

Points and a control module? If it’s a points distributor wired to a non points system.... the points distributors have a resistor that is bypassed only when starting. It runs off 9.6 volts otherwise, not 12

[@colleenp3484]

Got a 93 ford probe change distributor and it cranks but won't start. 3rd distributor in a year. Spark plugs new to any suggestions i ain't got anything to test the parts with.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

could be a lot if things, you can just stick a screwdriver in the end where the spark plug goes, and hold the plastic handle on the other end, hold it near metal, and see if it sparks.... if the distributors are burning up it could be the computer. have you tried spraying, carb cleaner, the low voc will not work, and starting fluid is for diesels, remove air cleaner, when someone is cranking it, spray carb cleaner in. if you have spark, it will at least try to start. we have driven customers cars to the shop, with me sitting under the hood, and keep spritzing it with carb cleaner. now if the distributor is not fried, and they keep getting loose, then you have a bad bushing. it is usually bronze, and its in the hole for the distributor.

[@TheNoah532]

Do those numbers you mentioned for the coil the same in all coils? I just got a new one for my 84 jag. The side posts say 1.4 but the center post and one side only read 8.4

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

what engine

[@wayneblatz3173]

Hello Eric the wrench. Can you help me out I have a 1985 Dodge ram three-quarter ton four-wheel-drive 5.9 L. Starting the vehicle cold I have no spark out of the coil until you release the key to the run position. after it warms up it works fine starts right away plenty of spark I have replaced coil. ignition switch and ignition module any suggestions.

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

It sounds to me like you have the coil wired to the wrong spot, the ignition switch kills power to headlights and accessories when cranking, try jumping hot wire on coil to positive on battery to se if that solves it, then wire to correct terminal....

[@chankhanglam2273]

€

[@peteloomis8456]

check the ballast resistor this is common on mopars when they go bad, will only fire while cranking over then when you let off of key to run position it quits running !

[@markezjefferson3513]

@erik the wrench I have a 2006 Volkswagen Jetta Gil and I don’t have any spark

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

I will find it in the comments later, I answer this question a lot, have to run to work now, the crank position sensor is not inside a distributor its on the block by the cam shaft end, same process as in the video , just spread out

[@joshpfahler6039]

Yeah that is definitely a good video thanks

[@TEN-TIMES-HARDER]

:)