Explanation on wiring up a fan relay on Fur Down Air Handler

Рет қаралды 15,050

Klint Hanks

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 59

@Jose_Irlanda 2 жыл бұрын

I'm & APT maintenance supervisor and ..work on these same machine...well said bro...👏👏👏

@klinthanks9946 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for that and for watching.

@wayne5607 Жыл бұрын

Very good explanation and a simple way to grab power along the way.

@klinthanks9946 Жыл бұрын

Hello there and thank you for watching. I’m glad that you enjoyed the video. Hope it was helpful to you.

@aljammal9891 3 жыл бұрын

Great explanation, you're a good man

@klinthanks9946 3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for that and thank you for watching.

@frankamaral7594 Жыл бұрын

Good info

@brycecovington 8 ай бұрын

Best video out of dozens I've tried to watch on this subject. My system has 2 heat strips and 2 heat sequencers and the 6 pin relay. My AC guy ran the power supply wires for high and low speed on the 6 pin relay from the sequencers. (2 sequencers - 2 power wires, one for high, one for low). So the fan won't turn on by selecting "Fan Only" on the thermostat. It has to get power supply (the other half of the 240) from the sequencers, which don't activate unless the heat is called for. I called another AC tech to come troubleshoot. 2nd AC tech said motor was bad so I bought a new motor. I suspect it was the wiring method that was the problem. Motor runs fine when I bypass the relay. SO, should I run a power line from the transformer (120) directly to the high speed part of the relay? And leave the power line from one of the sequencers connected to the low speed part of the relay? Does that solve the problem? Thank you.

@klinthanks9946 8 ай бұрын

Hello there and thank you for watching. Have you checked to see if you have 24volts at the fan relay when the thermostat is switched in the On position? The fan relay has 6 terminals on it. The 2 that are far from the other 4 are for your low voltage. The ones in the middle are for the low speed and the outter ones are for the high speed. When the fan relay is energized, the outter terminals are closed and completes the circuit. At this exact moment the inner terminals are opened. This configuration will not allow the low speed and the high speed to be powered up at the same time. The wires from the motor will go on one side of the relay. Let’s just say the top side. The wires from the motor are Black, Red, and White. The high speed wire (typically black) will go to the outter top terminal. The low speed wire (typically red) will go to the inner/middle top terminal. The yellow or white wire will go to what we will call the common block. That basically covers the wiring configuration for the motor end of it. On to the line side of things. As you may know you have two legs of 120volt. Let’s take line 1 and hook it to the common block. Line 2 will go directly to the heat sequencer. On a 5k heat sequencer there are 2 levels, as I call it, of terminals. The lowest one closest to the mounting screws is for the low (24v) voltage. The second level is for your high voltage. If it was a 10k sequencer then you would just have one more level. The Top level of the sequencer will have a left side and a right side. Each top side will have 2 joined terminals. So back to the direct wire in of line 2 to the sequencer. Line 2 wire will go to one of the terminals on the top left side of the sequencer. There will be another wire connected to the other terminal on the left top side of the sequencer. From there that wire will connect to the lower outter terminal of the fan relay. That now completes the high speed side of the circuit. Now for the low speed. There will be a wire that connects to the top right side of the sequencer and connects to the lower inner/middle terminal of the fan relay. This now completes the low speed side of the circuit. For the heater, there will one wire from the other terminal on the top right side of the sequencer that goes to the heat strip. There’s typically other in line saftey components before going to the heat strip but I’ll keep it simple for ya. The other side of the heat strip will go to that common block we made early on. At this point of the configuration, the fan should be able to automatically be controlled by the thermostat and if you so desired, be able to just switch the fan to the on position. But back to the very first thing, check your voltage at the fan relay. I really hope this information helps you out and I hope it isn’t too confusing for you.

@brycecovington 8 ай бұрын

@@klinthanks9946 Yes, that all makes sense. My configuration is a bit different in that the lines from the shut off go to a kind of splitter block, one for each L1 and L2 and those little junction blocks then passes the power on to the other components. Feeds the line side of transformer. Feeds the sequencers which feed the heat strips. The relay is fed 1 and 3 with the 24v green and common. 6 is the low red. 4 is the high black. 5 is connected to the top side of one sequencer. 2 is connected to the top side of the other sequencer. The relay clicks when turned on but the fan didn't power up. Tech diagnosed bad motor. I put new motor on, same problem. Put new relay on, same problem. In your set up, high voltage is on #2 pin always. So your high speed fan works when "Fan Only" is set. In mine, there is no high voltage to the relay unless the sequencers work. That is why I wondered if I should move the source of #2 on mine from the sequencer to a constant high voltage source. And I'm sure the sequencers work because heat strips come on when thermo tells them to. Crazy. Thank you so much for the reply.

@klinthanks9946 8 ай бұрын

It seems the wiring maybe incorrect. That fan relay is a 90830 which is the most common fan relay in many air handlers. The fan relay is energized anytime the thermostat cycles on when in cool mode. That’s even in auto. Those relays are pretty simple to wire up if you have a schematic. It’s possible the cover was thrown so you may not have that option. Instead, you have me. So 1 and 3 are for the low voltage (24v). 5 and 6 are normally closed which means it has continuity when no voltage is going to the relay. 2 and 4 are normally opened which means it does not have continuity when no voltage is going to the relay. When the relay is energized, 2 and 4 close while 5 and 6 open. This allows the motor to never have both low and high speed working at the same time. I would suggest moving that wire that is connected to #2 to possibly the other side of that sequencer. That seems to be the culprit. You’ll be connecting it to a constant hot. Use my previous reply to assist you in following your wires back. The sequencer is normally opened when no 24v is going to it so if that #2 wire is connected on the same side as let’s say the wire that goes to the heating element then it’s possible to just move to that wire to the other side of that sequencer. Just remember, when I say constant hot, I’m referring to staying on the same leg of high voltage. There are two legs of high voltage. It’s possible you’re just on the wrong side. The entire system is constant hot. The components just complete the circuit. Give it a try and let me know if you are successful.

@brycecovington 8 ай бұрын

Great explanation. That is exactly what I did. Connected to constant hot and now it all functions as it should. Heat works. And if I go set the therm to fan only, it comes on now. Whereas before it did not. Thanks for taking the time to advise me.@@klinthanks9946

@klinthanks9946 8 ай бұрын

You’re very welcome. I’m always willing to help someone out. Glad I was able to be of help. Take care!!

@ChildishCam 3 жыл бұрын

I GOT IT!!! Thank you so much for your help man you’re amazing

@klinthanks9946 3 жыл бұрын

Awesome man!!!! Glad I could help you out.

@klinthanks9946 3 жыл бұрын

Awesome man!!!! Glad I could help you out.

@orlandogandara8675 2 жыл бұрын

Keep these comin, thanks so much

@klinthanks9946 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for watching.

@saulmelgar8170 Жыл бұрын

Great video

@klinthanks9946 Жыл бұрын

Hello there and thank you for watching :)

@tothepointvids5192 Жыл бұрын

Hey Klint Thanks to your videos I was able to remove and install my new First Company fan coil. My fan coil style has no heating coil. It just a coil with blower in summer we get chilled water to the coil and in winter we get hot water My question is about wiring The old blower has white, blue , moron,black and brown The new blower motor has 4 wires. Which all the above except NO brown So if I hook all wires , I’ll have the brown wire from the bracket not connected to anything What do you recommend

@klinthanks9946 Жыл бұрын

Hello there and thank you for watching. Sounds like what you are describing is the speeds of the blower motor. I suggest looking at the schematic to determine what was used on the old blower and then compare that to the schematic on the new blower. Hope this helps.

@guitarwarrior69 21 күн бұрын

I’ve been searching for an explanation on videos regarding the relay, if the fan mode is set to on and relay coil is energized so the blower is running in high speed, but let’s say you have a call for heat while that happens, the sequencer closes and passes voltage through to the normally open (powered closed) set on the relay…my misunderstanding is then wouldn’t blower speed be running in high then when actually in heat you’d want the slower speed? I’ve been trying to wrap my head around how this works with the fan relay coil powered on. If it’s not powered with a G call then that’s great, I understand how the heat call passes power to the lower speed in the normally closed set. But once again, how does this work if that coil is energized??

@klinthanks9946 21 күн бұрын

@@guitarwarrior69 Hello there and thank you for watching. The fan relay is designed to only allow power on the low speed or the high speed at any given time, never both. If power was applied to both high and low speeds, the motor would burnt out. When the fan relay is energized, the points for the high speed are closed and the points for the low speed are opened. When the relay is de-energized, the points close on the low speed and open on the high speed. When heat is called for, the heat sequencer will handle sending power through those low speed points that are already closed on the fan relay. This will allow the low speed to run. Now I’ve seen on some units shipped from the manufacture , they will cap off the red wire from the blower and it will only run in high speed. It’s how they have the wires configured. I think they purposely did this to help with not blowing the thermal fuses. By lowering the air speed, you allow for a hotter coil which with a dirty filter or any air restrictions can cause the thermal fuse to blow. To change the fuse kinda sucks but isn’t impossible. You could do a visual on the unit and see what wires aren’t hooked up. I hope this information finds you well.

@MikeChapmanGastoncounty 9 ай бұрын

Hi, I am looking to add an MQTT relay to an HVAC's fan. In the example above, could you give advice as to how I would wire up the relay?

@klinthanks9946 9 ай бұрын

Hello there and thank you for watching. I’ve never used an MQTT relay but looking online as to what an MQTT relay is, I guess you would just follow the directions on hook up. I would need more information as to what difficulties you are having when trying to install this relay.

@GrantBrown-h1f 7 ай бұрын

If you turn on heat on your thermostat, how was your sequencer? Going to get power if your line coming in is on your normally open on the relay? You wired that wrong just that one area I mentioned

@klinthanks9946 7 ай бұрын

Hello there and thank you for watching. I believe you may have misunderstood my explanation. It was not wired incorrectly. There is constant power going to one side of the heat sequencer that comes from the junction point on the fan relay. Yes, it is on the normally opened terminals of the fan relay but that’s for when the fan relay is energized, it send voltage to the fan itself. There has to be a means of constant power at the relay in order for the high speed to work. Whenever the heat sequencer is energized, it closes and sends voltage to the heater and also sends voltage to the normally closed terminal. Since this terminal is closed, the fan motor will get the power it needs to operate. I hope this brief explanation helps you to understand it better.

@guitarwarrior69 21 күн бұрын

@houstonsbestairheat 2 жыл бұрын

I got a fur down air handler blower keeps running staff say they have changed everything in that electrical compartment and now a web of wires and wire nuts..wired many different ways but Instead of a double heat sequencer this one has a three stack heat heat sequencer should I change that sequencer to a double stack sequencer. This one also had scratching my head

@klinthanks9946 2 жыл бұрын

I would suggest looking at the schematics and try to rewire from that. It sounds almost as though a wire for the blower motor is in the wrong location. If you don’t have a schematic, try tracing your wires coming back from the blower motor. What brand unit is it?

@houstonsbestairheat 2 жыл бұрын

@@klinthanks9946 they went ahead and changed out the unit

@klinthanks9946 2 жыл бұрын

Sounds costly on their part. It would interesting to know what the cause was. Good luck and thanks for watching.

@bobbyburt3636 6 ай бұрын

I have a Furdown unit that the blower will not come on in fan or cooling mode, but will come on in heating mode. Do you have any advice on what could be wrong?

@klinthanks9946 6 ай бұрын

Hello there and welcome back!!! I would start with checking to see if you have 24volts at the fan relay when you have the thermostat in Fan On position. If you do not have 24volts then I would start tracing wires back and check for loose connections and check that the thermostat is functioning properly. If you have 24volts at the fan relay I would then check that you have 240volts between the Black wire (high speed) and the white or yellow wire (common), not to ground, that goes to the blower motor. If you have 240 volts between those two wires, not to ground, then I would suspect that the high speed windings of the blower motor are opened and the motor needs to be replaced. If you do not have 240volts between the black and white or yellow wire then it’s possible that the fan relay is bad and it needs to be replaced. A two speed blower motor has two sets of windings. A high speed set and a low speed set. If the windings open due to failure, but doesn’t short out, then we the motor can still operate on the other speed just as long as it isn’t a direct short. I’ve rewired units, in a pinch, to operate on a lower speed until I could get a replacement. I hope this information finds you well.

@antonioruiz2961 Ай бұрын

The one I’m working on is exactly like this but only has 3 wires for the thermostat one on R, W, and G. How do I get it to call for cooling on the condenser. It was working someone messed with it and I don’t know how to get it back running

@klinthanks9946 Ай бұрын

Hello there and thank you for watching. Before we start, disconnect the 240v power for the Air Handler. On the air handler, there are 4 wires coming off of it: Red(24v), White(heater control), Green(fan control), and Brown(common, this wire can sometimes be blue). The wire that runs to the thermostat is generally a 4 or 6 conductor wire. They will typically have two wires tucked back for extra uses since they aren’t using them. The typical wires that will be used are: Red, Yellow, White, and Green. Sometimes they will use one of the remaining wires to act as common. At the thermostat you will have 4 terminals, 5 terminals if using Common. Those are R, W, G, Y, and C. It’s pretty self explanatory on where the wires go but I’ll map it out anyways. G-Green, W-White, Y-Yellow, C-your common wire if used, and R-Red(some t-stats have RC and RH terminals with a tiny red jumper wire between the two terminals). You will finally have the wire that goes to the condenser. This is generally a 2 or 3 conductor wire. The colors vary from wire type to wire type. What I’ve come across is Red, White, and black. I always tuck the black wire back for extra. I’ll use the red and white wires. So let’s wire everything together!!! We’ve already wired the thermostat up, let’s get into the air handler and get to work. AH - Air Handler, TS - Thermostat, and CD - Condenser. Place a wire nut on the AH Red wire and the TS Red wire. Place a wire nut on the AH White wire and the TS White Wire. Place a wire nut on the AH Green wire and the TS Green wire. Place a wire nut on the TS Yellow wire and one of the CD Wires. Place a wire nut on the AH Brown or Blue wire and the other CD wire. If you’re using the Common wire from the thermostat, that wire would be placed under this wire nut too. Be sure on the condenser wires you use are the same color at the condenser. An easy way to check this is to disconnect 240v power on the condenser, open the panel on the condenser, and see which two colored wires they have connected to the contactor relay. I know it’s a lot of information to absorb but I hope somewhere in my blabbering you find the information you need to resolve your issue. Keep me updated, I’ll do my best to continue to help. Thank you!!

@HhHh-vi9bq Жыл бұрын

why is my relay buzzing? what effects will it have on the ac? fans are working, same first co unit..thanx!!

@klinthanks9946 Жыл бұрын

Hello there and thank you for watching. Some relays eventually make a buzzing sound. I’ve had contactors on condensing units buzz for months without concern. It’s annoying but the functionality is still there. I’ve had quiet relays/contactors short out with no warnings. Most relays cost next to nothing to purchase. Less than $20.00 on most types. Super easy to replace and it’s one less thing to worry/hear about. Hope this helps.

@bobbyburt3636 9 ай бұрын

I have a Goodman Furdown unit, and the blower won't come on. I'm getting 125 volt to each blower motor leg. Is the motor bad?

@klinthanks9946 9 ай бұрын

Hello there and thank you for watching. Do you have 240v, between the legs, to the motor? Just because you have 125v to each leg doesn’t mean the motor is bad. There’s a possibility that you aren’t getting full voltage. If a 240v motor is only getting one leg of voltage, it will go through the windings of the motor and back feed on the other leg making you think you have voltage. Anytime I diagnose a 240v motor, I want to see 240v on a voltage meter before I condemn it. A voltage tester or as I call it a Hot or not is not a good method to determine if a motor is bad or not. The voltage test only picks up current. If you do not have the full 240v at the motor then I would recommend checking to make sure the breaker isn’t flipped and then begin checking the fan relay or the heat sequencer to see if low voltage (24v) is being sent to those components. If there is a low voltage issue then nothing will work. I hope this information helps you out. Let me know if you need more information. Thank you

@bobbyburt3636 9 ай бұрын

@klinthanks9946 thanks for the information. I'll check everything and let you know.

@klinthanks9946 9 ай бұрын

You’re welcome.

@rod4923 2 жыл бұрын

How would you wire the same relay to a an air handler with electric heat strips. Thx

@klinthanks9946 2 жыл бұрын

Hello there!! This unit has electric heat on it. There is a heat sequencer (heat time delay relay) that when energized will send current through the strips and send current through the fan relay at the same time. The fan relay does not energize when in heat mode. Hope this help. Thank you for watching.

@kboone122 3 жыл бұрын

We have a problem with these units leaking water any suggestions because of them sweating we have wrapped them with insulation and somehow they still find a way to leak water on the floors

@klinthanks9946 3 жыл бұрын

Is it leaking just from the suction line insulation sweating or is it from the drip pan?

@kboone122 3 жыл бұрын

@@klinthanks9946 yes

@kboone122 3 жыл бұрын

Actually both

@klinthanks9946 3 жыл бұрын

What brand unit do you have? I wonder, since it is a consistent issue, if you have unfiltered air or exterior air coming into the air cavity which could cause the unit to sweat an excessive amount and work harder to cool. Since it’s using the “crawl space” between the floors one would assume that it is sealed. You’d be surprised what I’ve come across at my property. I’ve been here for 12 years and still come across stuff that makes me wonder how it went that long with no complaints of my residents.

@bobbyburt3636 8 ай бұрын

Where to connect the wire for cooling?

@klinthanks9946 8 ай бұрын

Hello there and thank you for watching. For most heating/cooling systems, the thermostat is what is going to control that. From the thermostat there will be typically 5 wires for a normal straight cool/electric heat system. Green, White, Red, Yellow, and the fifth color varies. Green is for the fan relay at the air handler, white is for the heat sequencer at the air handler. Red connects to the main power from the air handler. Yellow bypasses the air handler and goes to one of the control wires for the condenser. The other control wire from the condenser will go to the common wire at the air handler. The fifth random color from the thermostat is for Common hook up for the thermostat. That will then connect to the air handler common. Hope this helps.

@ChildishCam 3 жыл бұрын

On my transformer, I have a 40VA wire, where should that go?

@ChildishCam 3 жыл бұрын

2 secondary 24V wires coming from transformer, i connected one to the terminal shared with the yellow wire from the fan. do i connect the other one to a common lead somewhere?

@klinthanks9946 3 жыл бұрын

Most typical transformers are 240volt as a primary and 24volt as a secondary. Each transformer is different when it comes to the wire colors so me telling you what my colors are may differ from yours but on the transformer it will tell you what wire color is. If you have a multi volt transformer then you must read what the transformer says. What are the colors on the transformer you have and what is the verbiage for each wire.

@ChildishCam 3 жыл бұрын

@@klinthanks9946 correct but your trans only has 4 wires where mine has 5, I caped the 208V but that still leaves me with com, 240V, 24V and 40VA

@klinthanks9946 3 жыл бұрын

@@ChildishCam from the way you are describing it to me is that Com and 240volt will be your primary wires and 24v and 40v will be your secondary wires. Unsure why it would be showing 24v and 40v. Usually it just reads 24v on both wires. You can always wire in the primary and check what your voltage is on the secondary.

@yodamanrulz176 Жыл бұрын

Next video if you could please bob the camera around more plentifully, so it’s harder to zoom in on stuff that might be interesting to know about. Sound quality is very low also.

@klinthanks9946 Жыл бұрын

Hello there and thank you for watching. I’m no pro when it comes to the camera. I had my cell phone recording on a tripod with no external microphone. I’ll keep your advise in mind on my future videos.