The Problem(s) With Heliot Emil

[@cihancatchingtrends]

I actually never researched the previous collections of heliot emil up to this day and I'm completely shocked to see the amount of "references" they stole from other designers. I first discovered the brand when they introduced the Liquid Metal fabric, which was interesting, however I thought anything else that they did was a 100% Matthew Williams ripoff. Now watching this video confirmed that it was not only limited to Williams at all. I'm a senior year fashion design student and in my first year of school they taught us about functionality. The garments have to have utilities that will satisfy a need of the person. But many people think that by just putting meaningless zippers and clips make their designs "functional". I know you dislike Diesel, but , in my eyes Glenn Martens's Diesel has perfect examples of functional designs. Check their Pocketing details in their bags and jackets. That's what I call functional design. Love your videos and opinions. Keep doing this, thank you!!

[@fashionlover4]

Thanks for your insight! Totally agree about functional design, more does not mean better.

[@realfanta5]

Liquid metal has alr been done by Stone Island for years..

[@lonersparty]

You do realize most designers don’t follow the school books once they out

[@lonersparty]

@@domantassmaizys HE os Danish?

[@annabarr1304]

I find that Danish and Swedish designers "reference " quite a lot, its their strategy

[@beulpinktwt]

Finally someone said it

[@yutoupia]

thank god lmao 😂😂😂

[@Too2tall1]

Fashionlover 4 just carved Heliot Emil's tombstone 🪦💀

[@art_means_artificial]

made in china! everything you need to know about the brand

[@karlosluigialvarez3952]

I find myself rolling my eyes every time I come across Julius articles and interviews. Glad to know we're on the same page! Their marketing might be decent, but someone's gotta do their PR and tell the guy what to say, he's not coming across likeable, which makes us consumers question his and their 'why'.

[@art_means_artificial]

made in china! everything you need to know about the brand

[@Orbitinbloom19018]

Ive always had major passion for fashion but in the last few years ive learnt how much a passion i have for textile, garment quality and commercialism in fashion and how we invent alternatives. Im going to study fashion and textile technologies this year so thank you for helping me figure it out !

[@Krampuski]

I feel like Heliot Emil tries to stay relevant by hopping on micro-trends (like metallic clothing) while copying larger brands to create the illusion that they are being innovative. While it is true that the best artists steal from multiple areas of life then shape their work to their vision, I don't think Heliot Emil actually has a clear vision.

[@Devananta-Rafiq]

You sum up HE ethos accurately

[@fashionlover4]

Agreed

[@ehlohimwhil5762]

You literally just summed up what the video said You literally did the same thing Elliot Emil does

[@marleyxl8959]

I have a different perspective after seeing the tsunami of hate that Virgil got throughout his life for being a copycat. Now after his death we acknowledge his brilliance. I think we all put too much judgement on people who just want to be creative and make clothes.

[@ehlohimwhil5762]

@@marleyxl8959 No, he’s still a copy cat. People are just cautious on crossing the line on telling the truth and coming across as “disrespectful towards the dead”

[@nbnik2684]

Thank you for explaining to me why Heliot Emil never felt enough cool to buy a piece from them

[@ArissaHa]

I bought a dress from one of their archive sale because I really liked the design and was so disappointed with the quality. It felt like it was worse than Shein, and the fabric which was hanging out from the hem neither felt like a lining nor part of the design. I would never buy from them again.

[@fashionlover4]

That's disappointing, I'd hope that they at least have decent quality, thanks for sharing!

[@2323-o8g]

The zippers on my jacket i got a while ago always get stuck, and they said it was waterproof but its not actual waterproof fabric they just waxed it a little bit

[@verlegenemandarine]

@@fashionlover4 have to disagree here, as i mentioned in a previous comment, bought a jacket from them a while ago and the quality is up there. im working in fashion for a year now and would think im able to give my 2 cents regarding this topic, though am open for other opinions

[@RextonWendell]

I can agree on this, all of their cloestjing feels like if not worse than fast fashion clothes. purchased T-shirts, jackets & pants. They are poorly made & have terrible stitching & fabric quality for that price. The only thing that I’m satisfied with is their box bag which is actually pretty well made. Love their designs but I am no longer getting anymore items from this label

[@verlegenemandarine]

@@RextonWendell thx for the input

[@Rooftopdarling]

respectfully I agree. I love it in theory like "yes, future clothing" but I think there are too many zippers and idk something about it isn't grabbing me but they're also pretty new so there is always room for improvment 😌

[@jonathanvitesse9471]

Absolutely agree. In france we say in an really snobbish and condescending way that brands like HE or Alyx are making « hetero fashion », which basically mean fashion for people who aren’t into fashion but want to look like they are. It’s not a brand about creativity, expressing art or pushing a vision, it’s about selling clothes for people who buy things with a « people will think i look cool wearing this » mentality. Which tbh it’s nothing wrong, some people just want to find an aesthetic that people like, wear it and not think about it ever again knowing they will probably look cool to most of their friends and take no risks. I just hate how it makes itself look like way more than it is, and how in people in the industry don’t really bother calling it out. Especially since their quality is apparently awful, it really reminds me of some of the stuff you find on edgy dropshipping websites. Like come on, even Philipp Plein has pushed some things and took some risks in the fashion world

[@fashionlover4]

Thanks for the insight, I totally agree!

[@2323-o8g]

Yeah the quality does suck, i got a jacket a while ago and the zippers always get stuck

[@mikefarris8637]

This all just sounds like pretentious gatekeeping honestly. This comment and the entire sentiment of this video. Who cares

[@MrBolosslol]

j'ai jamais entendu l'expression hétéro fashion ahaha

[@2323-o8g]

@mike farris well my take on it is that while the clothes are cool theres really no meaning behind the creation and a lot of it is stolen, so while i disagree with the comment i also think yours is stupid

[@dittot]

The liquid metal fabric is really the only thing of theirs that stood out to me

[@OneOneThree-wl7ml]

Well I struggle to thibk of brands that are constantly throwing out complete game changers over and over again. Most of them seem to be just "t shirt with brand logo" or "pants with natural shoelaces for drawstring", or "jacket with straps" in similar ways. Seems like each and every brand have handfuls of innovative items while majority are derivative or trend hopping.

[@x2c3c]

fax but the rest they make r ass

[@penitures]

Your channel is very helpful. I'm somewhat of a fashion newbie, And this really opens up my visuals about H.E. as a whole. Thanks. You deserve more credit.

[@stefanandreev8117]

It's been a while since something about Heliot Emil has been bugging me, but I've never put so much thought into it. Now you've put it into words. Thank you for that! Keep up the good work!

[@Megaman.ExE7]

I've always thought of Heliot Emil as a kind of "test." The clothing is decent to high quality and their presentation (shows, editorials) have grown in a positive way, they've become sophisticated and refined. That being said, despite the numerous cut and sew pieces they release or the different fabrics and textures they use; I don't think they've done anything to *deserve* being labeled anything beyond an "IG Brand" (a title that's becoming increasingly pejorative)

[@MYGGEN]

Lmao ive owned a couple of heliot emil things and have never experienced the decent to high quality you mention

[@fashionlover4]

The instagram label is unfortunate but somewhat true that brands like HE enforce but there are loads of great instagram brands of course!

[@fashionlover4]

@@MYGGEN What is your experience?

[@MYGGEN]

@@fashionlover4 i owned a belt a couple years ago, which was so bad quality. I currently own a hat which is made with the worst nylon I have ever touched.

[@RextonWendell]

@@MYGGEN I believe we might have that same black hat with the metallic H E hardware. Yes, I was so disappointed when I received it, can’t believe that even my New Era Yankees look higher quality

[@jjr4236]

As someone who is trying to inch my way into gaining a better conception of the fashion industry and many of its brands, this is such a great video!! ill definitely have to check out more

[@OneOneThree-wl7ml]

I like Heliot Emil 4x more after watching your video. I'm not joking. Thabk you for showing me their awesome style. I'm not being sarcastic or edgy. I appreciated your criticism while appreciating their style. I really like Heliot Emil

[@nym5qu17]

carabiners are soo underground techno man!

[@Mx_Skull]

thanks for doing the deep dive and putting into words the feelings / reactions I was having about this brand. I kept thinking like, "hmm interesting..." but then forgetting about the brand entirely until they would pop up again on my feed with another attention-grabbing thing. The only thing I was really taking away into my memory and associating with Heliot Emil were the carabiners, which have been just attached to everything and got annoyingly played out real quick.

[@Tripn]

10:43 I don't see why its immature to say that he does this for his own ego. Its self awarness to the highest degree. People think they can just seperate themselves from their egos desires when its rlly not that simple. People who do "selfless acts" wouldn't do it if it hurt their ego.

[@PrincipalSkinner3190]

I also have sort of admired Heliot Emil from afar, but could never pull the trigger and buy into it. A brand that I think gives off a similar vibe, but with a more artistic lens I've been into is Sean Suen.

[@fashionlover4]

Yes! Their menswear is super interesting, should've mentioned them but there are too many brands to remember I might make a list lol

[@theodoregodson3337]

they steal designs from young interns who are trying to get a job in the fashion industry. Don't send your portfolio to them. My school project was named Natural Uniform in wich i was blending nature and human creation in one and i sent it to them just to see them naming their collection Solitary Uniform right after :D it even had some of my key shots in there. Like you could see they analysed it, painted it black and white all over through their clothes and rebranded it to their liking.

[@yamiyugi2894]

Damn that sucks

[@Maniahg]

Jesus.... this is honestly so much more f*cked up than just stealing from an independent designer on IG. Cause these are ambitious young people who wanna work for their dream brands who apply for a position in good faith 🤦🏿‍♂

[@Whodnl]

Babe wake up fashion lover 4 uploaded

[@TravisFirestine]

I like Heliot Emil, but I still agree with everything you touch on in this video. I also really enjoy ‘19 and ‘20, the best of their work in my opinion.

[@P.Aether]

It's ok when Virgil steals whole designs and concepts from Walter, but when someone else does it!!!!!

[@lonersparty]

Dyg

[@loveone5009]

Never thought of the brand just got into fashion a year ago proper first thought looks like helmet Lang lmao quite proud of myself that I got it before he said it 👍🏿

[@linse6312]

It’s like if rick and Mathew Williams had two Dutch babies

[@hiro11]

yeah couldn't have worded it better, it looks like an basic asymmetrical version of 1017 alyx 9sm but cheap .😂

[@renzrenzrenzrenzrenz]

Matthew's Son's

[@isaiahdelgado556]

Danish, not dutch

[@davidpachecogarcia]

Their lack of a design background might be showing now. Designers knows how to tie all elements of a brand together to propel the idea of what the brand stands for. They (H Emil) have a bunch of ideas thrown together. Instead focus on way less ideas and push those to the breaking point. That’s the space where you might find interesting things that haven’t been or rarely explored. Both Virgil and Rick are designers because of just the amount of things they can write and flesh out about their latest collection. There’s substance there.

[@ehlohimwhil5762]

@@b9ris707 thank you

[@davidpachecogarcia]

@@b9ris707 Virgil did rely on connections and clout. Rick is def different.

[@apexsynthesis1]

@@b9ris707 100% agree.

[@Tyke.create]

I just finished a interview of Julius, and then watch this video that I've put previously in watch later, and yeah. Everything you said is true, nevertheless every person while have a different sensibility and will agree to a different degree. Great video, thanks for your insight

[@erikaweirdsurname4150]

Love the way you break it down, i personally feel these things but i could not articulate it myself !

[@understitchYT]

welp, Ill be referencing this some time in the future 🤣

[@fashionlover4]

The Rise & (maybe rise) of Heliot Emil video coming soon?

[@litswagcool]

Damn, that Video really changed my view about HE. I still really like their styling tho, but your I got all your points and it made me think about it and you’re absolutely right. It’s really more of a brand for those who like to be seen with just simple stuff, instead of real fashion fans.

[@servidig483]

Very fair points, still like the clothes, objectively

[@verlegenemandarine]

i really do get your point, but have to admit, youre overhating in this one. At lest give them some credit for being accessible on this described as stage 2 fashion interest. they are getting people onto this wave and in my opinion do have distinctive features for example the karabiner. main negative point about them has to be them not once mentioning them referencing their influences or to some extend even them copying other designers. all in all they still are a new brand and in my opinion still have huge potential. i myself bought one of their jackets a few years ago second hand and still love it very much, it hangs next to my jpg faux leather jacket and a mm one. wouldnt trade it in for any of those two.

[@verlegenemandarine]

english is not my first language, just so yall know

[@Devananta-Rafiq]

Starting my day right with fashionlover4 video! Like what somebody said in other comments, HE relying too much on (micro)trend hopping for their clothes and lately with the fashion show gimmick (and empty words) for marketing. This season were so many fashion show gimmicks but HE one literally triggered my stomachache. It was just plain stupid and meaningless. But I hope they find their voice tho, they have potential to make something interesting but choose not to.

[@oppositionwatch]

i always thought that they wanted to be the ultimate opium brand by ripping off alyx clasps with their carabiners, rick with the brutalist techno thing and demna with the gimmicks

[@JaegarX]

"ultimate opium brand" gotta be the most disrespectable fashion insult ever lmfao.

[@yutoupia]

@@JaegarX 😭😭😭

[@isaiahkulakevich9058]

If looks could kill⛓️🐺🧑🏿‍🎤

[@Evolwen]

Ultimate opiate brand

[@oppositionwatch]

@@JaegarX oh it definetly is

[@lupus7297]

Heliot Emil’s designs are like the Mc Mansions of technical fashion lol

[@ytyoungrichnhigh]

MC mansions?!

[@MartinClimbs]

as rock climber this is really hard to watch. but in all seriousness, very well made video and commentary with plausible references and connections. well done! cheers from Vienna 💐

[@Marcsovncs]

Lol wtf does rock climbing have to do with anything

[@MartinClimbs]

@@Marcsovncs weird forced carabiners everywhere! have u watched the vid?

[@Marcsovncs]

@@MartinClimbs oh the reputation of the rock climbing community is gonna be in shambles…

[@MartinClimbs]

@@Marcsovncs it's not about the reputation of anyone, it just looks and feels odd and out of place. and me fiddling with them pretty often and seeing them on with no sense on shitty techwear is just slightly infuriating. its my unnecassary comment, not yours. r u always this unpleasant, or just in yt comment sections?

[@billermans]

When watching your videos and your latest take on the three categories of people + their level of interest in fashion, I have been wondering what your take is on people who exclusively buy 2nd hand clothes but not necessarily 'vintage' clothes or know anything really about specific brands. I feel like there is a big 'underground' scene or just artsy (lol) people that have their really unique fashion style, based solely on second hand clothing (probably even very cheap) and are not interested in brands whatsoever, or if they wear brands it's not consciously anyway/ with a lot of knowledge of that brand (maybe just something they picked up in a thrift store and liked, regardless of the brand). When I see that kind of people, I am always in awe of their originality, and would even say they are the most 'interested in fasion' of all of them, since they don't buy something because it 'looks cool on instagram'. Because even if it is a more obscure brand that doesn't invest much in marketing, and has this really cool and interesting thinking behind their clothes, I feel you can still 'buy into' this brand to signal to an audience that you are 'fashionable', without giving it much though yourself. You see what I mean? Anyway love your videos!!

[@dov2mt]

Great video ive always felt similarly about heliot emil but couldnt put into words what made me so hesitant about the brand

[@hh7788ify]

THANK YOU. First of all I had a good laugh. I studied fashion and I remember my boyfriend showed me this brand that was all over Instagram with paid advertisement. I remember thinking first that is a catfish brand sourcing weird semi fashion designs from AliExpress and selling it for much higher price😂. It reminds me of Manier de Voir, only that they at least sell for an affordable price. It is zero fashionable and just such a sell out brand with no identity. Techno meets alyx meet helmut and rick owens and loads of carabiners as u said.

[@l00r0lll]

kanye and heliot watched the hunger games and said.. lemme be katniss

[@understitchYT]

After watching this video, it reminds me somewhat of how Who Decides War began where they were just trying to get attention by copying others and trying to grab consumer attention without really having a plan. Luckily Heliot's branding is more attention grabbing, but as a consequence, where WDW evolved and changed their approach, Heliot hasnt. I havent done my own research, but I trust your perspective and this is my take away

[@fashionlover4]

It's a reasonable place to start and get that initial attention for sure but evolution is key. I'm glad I could earn your trust lol

[@rawpeee]

do ur research

[@hannahleedong2515]

Amazing video! Was thinking about applying for a design internship at the label, maybe I can bring some new craziness into the game 😁

[@felixlink6114]

This video just convinced me that you are the anthony fantano of fashion, roasted their shit into oblivion

[@JafacaksWasTaken]

How insulting

[@ehlohimwhil5762]

You actually may be right with the comparison

[@jaspersvabo9938]

I agree with some of your points , especially about Julius as a frontfigure. That being said, your point about the appropriation of fashion (like the Matthew Williams fit) lacks understanding of just how much brands, and fashion interested people influence each other. For instance; was Matthew Williams the first to wear a white dress shirt, black tie, and black pants? No. He too was consciously, or subconsciously strongly influenced by others. And would this influence be defined as appropriation or just inspiration? I myself, am neither a huge HE fan, but I think you underestimate the level of ‘appropriation’ in all of fashion culture. Even in the parts that you as an individual enjoy.

[@mikesarchives]

I can't lie; the first half of the video was a great breakdown of the brand. I enjoyed him pointing out the references and obvious similarities. Still, at one point, he just starts being petty and bashing every small creative detail of the brand turning the video into a slanderous rant. His bigotry and elitism are actually pretty toxic.

[@TurtleMansion]

Its really just some products with an aesthetic to me, super contemporary, not pushing anything super far forward, very “ig brand”

[@one_man_community]

The same reasons for your critique, is also the reason for their success, and my preference of Heliot Emil. They're an amalgamation of the prior brands they're derivative of - I think, creating the most refined version of them ALL. And I do definitely think the runway walk 'on fire' is an homage for Kanye, the styling, and even the walk is similar. I thought it was badass. (However, I respect your perspective)

[@Letsfuckingoooooooo]

Derivative can’t be a more refined version of the original, that goes against what derivative means

[@one_man_community]

@@Letsfuckingoooooooo Absolutely not. You can only refine something that preexists. It would have to be derivative of.

[@Letsfuckingoooooooo]

@@one_man_community dervivatives by nature are lesser versions of the original, that’s a part of being derivative.

[@fashionlover4]

That's totally fair, I see the appeal and honestly think that I'd prefer Heliot Emil over Alyx a lot of the time and Helmut Lang isn't what it used to be.

[@one_man_community]

@@Letsfuckingoooooooo No. That's simply not the definition. That might be the nature of most derivatives though. In your eyes.

[@dedezin]

I would say that Heliot Emil feels like a brand that doesn't fit into doing seasonal collections, but "drops" instead. If you mix all the looks they presented throughout their collections, you pretty much wouldn't be able to categorize their clothes with its respective collections if it weren't for the different runway stages. But trying to fit into a brand that does seasonal collections is for sure a better marketing move than just dropping clothes once in a while even if their clothes are not really collected by a unique meaning each season, it is just more and more of the same aesthetic.

[@jan-christofersarapik494]

Personally i think it's a bit harsh. yeah they can steal ideas from big designers and make it their own, but if u listen to like virgil abloh speking about clothes or rick ownes or whoever u want they all do that. its called taking inspiration and i agree they have very similar designs and all but you have to give them time. its clear they have improved a lot since the start and they havent done it a long time either, if in 10 years they still make the same clothes then yeah call them a ripoff but for now personally i think they have a lot of potential. im not saying u have to like them but im saying its hard for new brands to come into high fashion these days. They steal like artists.

[@SpyderK]

this video opened my eyes towards the brand, but i think the criticism of non functional gimmicks is a bit harsh. useless pocket, zippers or carabiners can look cool and therefore have a function.

[@brettleist7563]

They can look cool if not overused but making it a consistent design element kind of ruins the cool factor

[@shottadancer]

I love this brand I just started wearing it

[@morgantitakagi2777]

I am so thankful that your youtube account excists . You give me a completely new perspective on fashion

[@taeasling897]

Been waiting for this

[@jxdfv6850]

Yeah agreed... once pulled a trigger on heliot emil piece becouse it was on huge sale ¨budjet alyx vest¨ and let me tell you i really hope their website photographers are getting top dollar becouse the piece in hand was horrible i tought i got fake one lol so bad quality, i ended up refunding... what was pain in the ass too becouse the customer service is the worst

[@VERAXON]

I think before doing these type of videos try to do some further research on the designers inspirations. See what they follow on instagram etc, i agree with you on some parts but also disagree on others. With the attention economy these days brands have no choice anymore to do these mirco trends, gimicks whatever to survive its just how it is now. The fact heliot emil have done what they have done with out any financial investment from outside entities until now is pretty cool. Give them some time to develop because from what ive seen they're not stupid. I just think its not fair to degrade a young brand when theyre just starting their journey. Once they have the financial leverage to really go out and travel into the world and find inspiration that is unobtainable through the interenet is when they will really excel. Take Rick for example once he gained financial leverage he could really open up his insipiration and thats when imo his designs pushed boundaries. everyone says subjective stuff as long as the clothes speak to you then its fine. May not speak to anyone else but thats okay.

[@DGM2500]

Man I have no idea how I got here but it was certainly interesting. The deep fashion people really do be ripping on brands, and for good reason apparently.

[@michaelofparadise]

damn, now that i realize it, it really does seem its for the tiktok and instagram audience, not for the art of fashion

[@brrrrrr4330]

heliot emil always felt techy just for sake of being techy

[@hiro11]

nah when i seen the chelsea boot i thought it was satire 😭😭😭😭 Matthew Williams definitely laughing

[@swimmininls1039]

What do you think of doing videos on small up and coming brands with unique innovations or ideas?

[@christianstone8999]

I appreciate your cynicism towards Heliot Emil, and I understand all of your criticisms. But I think coming up with completely new, non-derivative ideas every 6 months is already a very difficult task in itself, not to mention, I find that the majority of buyers and shoppers actually either don't know about those derivative references of other designers, or they don't care (buyers especially). Most buyers just care about the brand awareness, brand appeal and sell-through. And like you mentioned, most consumers, who don't have fashion knowledge as in depth as yours only care about looking cool on social media.

[@regiphnm]

Apparently ripping off notable pieces from notable designers is ok in your code of ethics. 👎🏼

[@christianstone8999]

@@regiphnm It is not okay to rip off others, and as a fashion designer myself, I don't condone that as well and I try my best to make original designs. I am just trying to express that the fashion calendar rarely gives designers time to really experiment and come up with totally new designs every season. That's why taking an existing design from somewhere else and changing it a little is a very common solution/design shortcut. Sometimes it's done in a more socially and ethically accepted way, sometimes it isn't. Believe it or not, "ripping off" or "referencing" (no matter how you call it) archive, vintage, or notable past and present pieces are the norm of the industry. It has been done for decades. When I was working at Dior 8 years ago, they would ask me to copy the pattern of an existing trench coat from another brand, and then they would only change the details and fabrics and present it as a new Dior design. I have also interned in a lot of companies, and I know that every big and small brand does the same all the time. There are lots more examples of this. I mean, how often is it to see designs from two brands that look similar? Very often. Even the masters in the past would "reference" each other - if you look closely, some design details in the 90s-00s between Galliano and McQueen look so similar that it's hard to tell them apart. I don't know if you are a designer. If you are not, I could understand why you are judging me merely with "the codes of ethics" argument. I am not really defending Heliot Emil from what Bliss's video is saying. I am just trying to express that even though there is a lot of truth to the video, this is the culture of the whole industry, and I can understand why it is, and why a lot of brands are doing it the same way. And I am definitely not outright saying it is the right thing to do. Nowadays, it has been much less about abiding by the codes of ethics (because such ethics don't clearly exist on all levels within the inner workings of the industry. Plus, it is also subjective to each person, and often tiresome to argue whether a design is a direct copy, an homage, or an interpretation). More often than not from the designers' perspective, it is just more about trying to finish an entire collection on time every six months with limited time and resources by using shortcuts - while the buyers don't care if a design is copied from somewhere or not, as long as what they are buying into is hyped and will sell. Hope by addressing your reply, I have helped you understand more about the reality of the industry.

[@rawpeee]

@@christianstone8999can i be ur friend

[@billermans]

Being from Belgium and seeing Eddy Wally pop up in one of your videos, was something I did NOT expect 😂

[@truextc3569]

this vid feels super bias against heliot im ngl , u do make some valid points but a lot of it feels like your actively trying to dislike it as opposed to accepting and understanding it for what it is . literally everything in fashion is derivative of prior works , u can say the same for the other designers u mention like shayne oliver , rick owens martin margiela etc. (although i hav a greater appreciation for them as well) . there’s a famous quote by carl sagan that states “in order to truly create an apple pie from scratch you must first invent the universe” , imo heliot has created a very strong brand image and identity in the short 5 years they’ve been active , especially because most of these other fashion housss u compare them to hav been in the industry for decades

[@iimrod]

Finally someone who thinks for themselves

[@tomorrowknows3042]

Yeah bro is fucking lame for this take. The development of this brand in 5 years is amazing and he’s comparing them to 20+ year brands. Easy for someone to sit on their ass in their room and not put a collection together

[@katlehomatla3972]

I honestly wanna hear what you gotta say about Who Decides War

[@Numba1starrr]

the way you explain this was so spot on

[@ANDREWMNOWELL]

Oh Man…..the way you broke it down…..masterful!!! 🙌🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾 Are you on Patreon? I want to show my support 💯💯💯

[@bluezest4266]

Now we are talking 🎉❤ A fashion content with a strong opinion. Don't be shy put some more! 🎉

[@ANDREWMNOWELL]

Found you on Patreon and subscribed … keep up the great work 💯💯💯

[@fashionlover4]

Thanks so much!!

[@TheAiscy]

Their liquid matal fabrication is most likely stolen from Camilla Thulins Iridescent metallic dress. Which created quite a buzz at Valentino Spring 19 couture

[@jamesreardon9422]

I think that a lot of your points are justified, however I simply find the clothes interesting and avant garde enough while still being something I will wear. I can certainly appreciate the thought and creativity behind a RO piece but most of the time it simply doesn't match my more subtle (but still weird) style.

[@fashionlover4]

That's totally fair, I'd still argue that RO and other brands that I mentioned have better subtle pieces, check them out!

[@jamesreardon9422]

@@fashionlover4 I do love y project, which you mentioned. Keep up the great videos bro.

[@ccchase420]

i'm with you it's a bit mid. it's a bit low impact and safe like you say, which is a bummer because it definitely has potential.

[@raw8814]

i literally never hear anything about them ever and it kinda makes sense why

[@hiro11]

😂 ive heard about jaded london more than heliot emil

[@aaronadkins9902]

Heliot Emil has also always felt kinda off to me because to me it feels a bit like an asos own brand take of darker avant garde, and this has honestly confirmed this to me.

[@5OFIJA]

a great video - i would like say that i kind of felt called out watching it , because while i am doing more research about fashion and am starting to dig deeper i think i still fall into the 2nd category of the 3 you mentioned - which i now see is probably why i have been atracted to heliot emil clothes *when i saw them on instagram lol*

[@JD-rk1rn]

i love how detail has become the new lazy trigger word for designers

[@pb.j.1753]

I am looking for a box-like bag and the carabiner box bag really caught my eye. Is it worth it you think? Does someone have it and knows about the quality?

[@ciko7064]

Haven’t even watched the vid yet. But when this brand came out I thought it was some ass fr. Just doesn’t sit right with me and the it hasn’t peaked my interest since. Shitty combo of all of what’s popular I feel

[@ciko7064]

This what a brand looks like when the creators have no swag from the jump

[@4isatu743]

feels like fashion tiktok bait

[@ihebamouchi2199]

Degremont show in 2021 opened the runway with a fireman on look 1, too !

[@timothyzhang678]

Please cover ERD sometime. Underrated brand fr

[@rafcmons]

love your take, they make some good pieces but just a few since most of them look the same

[@ihebamouchi2199]

thank you for this video and all videos !

[@jeremiahbrown4387]

I like the brand there Pieces that stand out to me not all but some

[@lupus7297]

Post Archive Faction set their whole collection on fire I the early days.

[@katlehomatla3972]

No man😹😹😹. I have a distorted perspective on them now😭. Peak fashion comedy 💀

[@Vstrum]

B4 I watch, I agree

[@Vstrum]

After I watch, I agree

[@karigrandii]

I bet the Juul brothers have never set foot in the ug techno scene ain’t no way lmao

[@Forthefirsttime420]

damn you really snapped. the carabiners are soo obvious i cant bear to look at them

[@b.bd00m77]

Wow I didn't even know about this brand.... Now I know I didn't miss a thing

[@Mattiasbaldi123]

I'm not critising you, I think you are brilliant and know much more about this than I do, I just want to understand this correctly, because I am a bit confused to what the point is. The issue being Heliot Emil is presenting itsself as 'high-end' when the clothing does not live up to that image? It's all about branding?

[@ilikealotofthings731]

Alot of it is just pretentious fluff about how Heliot Emil is not original enough and "follows trends instead of creating them"

[@Mattiasbaldi123]

@@ilikealotofthings731 So you disagree?

[@mugensekai]

Saw the brand for a while on IG from other influencers, and noticed some similarities and saw others make similar comments, but I didn't think too much of it since sampling and rehashing is bound to happen in fashion as it does in music-fast forward to your video there are too many distinct similarities it's quite evident now that it's beyond derivative. I just bought a pair of shorts on sale so we'll see on the quality front...!

[@fashionlover4]

Some other comments haven't been saying good things about the quality so best of luck!

[@iimrod]

This is a wild take on H.E, I've watched this video several times and was trying to convince myself you didn't have an agenda but here are thoughts.... To intro this video you basically call H.E an "instagram" brand - which is inaccurate - it is one of the better "newish" projects to come out of the Nordics. Even though it might seem like they're pushing an instagram narrative, it's actually the natural growth of the brand or any other brand. You mentioned "you couldn't sell yourself on the brand" my question is "are you an H.E customer"? Also what do you mean by "you should love it but you don't" - I think fashion brands/projects are quite literal you either like something because you see yourself in it or you don't. Your play on giving the brand subtle compliments with a dose of sacarsim is great. At this point Im wandering if you are discussing the brand, its product or its marketing. As a product developer or anyone who has an in-depth knowledge into pattern cutting - H.E's products are not "typical silhouettes"as the patterns are complex. I think you need to be mindful with points like this, as I'm sure many students probably visit this channel for insights. If you are going to tackle a brand like H.E focus on their product not "marketing". Also do yourself the favour and order some pieces or attend a show for a 360 viewpoint, not articles on the internet. The fact that you think just because they make a "version" of a product compromises quality or complexity is wrong - watch RICK OWENS's segment on this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnjOoZiorb9pbLs (33:05) The instagram comparison to RICK OWNS didn't make sense but let's keep it moving. H.E doesn't have a special formula to building a brand especially in the current climate of accessible resources. For all students or designers starting a brand, do yourself a favour and build an audience first, just like H.E, establish a visual language that auras your collection, the 100-1000 people you gain from doing this and following your journey will be more important than the millions of admirers you gain on the way. (Watch Samuel Ross and Virgil Interviews). As a designer one of the greatest feeling is people knowing your design language and knowing what they'll get from you. So much that the only thing they need to do is read show notes to understand that particular collection. Let's move on to the brand inspirations. I think in fashion "no idea is ever original but your execution can be". You say you don't like to "critique a brands beginning" but you go on to do it anyway? Most new projects do this, you should be inspired by what you see around you, colour, shapes, people etc - the only thing you are right on is, YES!! creative directors need to be more transparent with their inspirations, its more admirable to see how someone took an existing idea and re-created it, than all these dreamy complex paragraphs about "how they felt". But then you compare the name HELIOT EMIL to HELMUT LANG? Implying they copied what exactly? Come on!!!! (at this point I knew there was an agenda)... The breakdown of how they've described the brand, I believe aligns with what you see in the product even for the a beginner - industrial elegance, monochromatic, custom hardware, high detail, innovative, thought provoking themes etc... The comparison with Alyx is also irrelevant. What you should say in the video is Julius (HE), Matthew (Alyx), Samuel (ACW) were all bi-personas of the Donda/Kanye/Virgil umbrella. Yes maybe Julius maybe spoke to Matthew about the Alyx leathers, so what? The DONDA group are very collaborative. Addressing the "GUY ON FIRE" again probably a Kanye inspiration which was great but if you listen to Julius's reasoning behind this; he likes to create moments in between the H.E shows to keep people engaged and not lose attention, quite genius if you may ask, not pointless. Let's wrap this up with your point on the "Liquid Metal" being the only point of difference they have. Apart from sustainable green washing, name me a mid-luxury brand has brought to life a new fabric concept? Again the under-estimation of research and development alongside the financial commitments that goes into creating these new materials should not be overlooked. Going into the comparison with other new designers - majority (not all) of the final student projects are un-practical shapes people won't ever wear, yes it looks cool and great for the moment, maybe gain a segment in an article but then what? Yes I agree there are many exceptional traditional designers with a e.g Peter Do but a brand can also be built using H.E's blueprint and that's fine too. It's about how you make people feel, not what your marketing budget is. Back to H.E's visual language, they have one of the most innovative methods of video production which considers where the future is heading so nothing to complain here. Sadly some of the comments seem to be jumping unto the bandwagon too. Mostly for the students here, go and do your own research on brands, listen to people who either own products or attend their shows or spoke directly to the designers behind a project. There isn't one blueprint to make a successful brand and note H.E is a fairly new brand do not disregard their path until now. Apart from this video, keep up the great content.🙌

[@DarkMuj]

Heliot Emil sucks and so does your terrible take.

[@SamueLewis1991]

i agree. he was calling the designer obnoxious whilst being so himself. its a cool brand and i like their stuff. the first half of the video i was so engaged, ive almost been seduced by HE but never committed and this video for the first half gave some great realizations why. the second half was just pure pretentious , gatekeeping, elitist drivel.

[@rawpeee]

thank you, he did every research except for collections

[@rawpeee]

just followed u on ig bro

[@paddyolten4031]

An interesting review! Thank you. ❤❤

[@slime0612]

his collections are giving arena explore page, and the show titles sound like every art students channel title on arena

[@dimdevries]

Where can I find that process of Virgil ?

[@humzahu]

Could you make a video on your thoughts on A-Cold-Wall please!

[@memelord3348]

Beyond fair opinion tbh, I’ll probably still like what they do despite their lack of authenticity but I’ll fs check out whoever they copy & if I can support them better instead

[@adamdrapak4004]

wouldnt u consider doing a video about windowsen?

[@hashishfreelorn5311]

can someone tell me what brand/show those images are from at 11:42??

[@rmiah]

Dawg he literally says it, Alyx FW19

[@Theattractiveonee_]

@@rmiah😂😂😂 tf be wrong fr

[@co1066]

Could you do a video showing brands that have a great Instagram’s that reflect their “brand identity” and “universe”