Final Tuning of Doug Rippie C4 LT1 Corvette

[@DaveG1963]

That is what I like about your rhyme to your rhythm! You leave no stone unturned and that makes a difference. Can’t this be by mail tune and such, no has to be hands on. Great series on the DRM Vette. Happy New Year!

[@EllweinEngines]

thanks and happy new year to you too

[@DanOnFire]

Hard to believe how good the Rippie Vette is running now vs. when it was first delivered to you. “Troubleshooting - methodically” (ref. DRM ep. 1) every single issue that kept this car from being the perfect time capsule. Thank you for all your hard work and dedication, Mr Ellwein.

[@EllweinEngines]

Thanks. It was fun!

[@thunderstruck5484]

Car was movin! Thanks for taking us along! And Hope you and yours have a great new year!

[@EllweinEngines]

Same to you! Happy new year 2024

[@bohemianraceart]

Wow a real difference masterful tune job 👏 🎉

[@EllweinEngines]

thanks

[@joelbanyai8224]

And this is why good tuning on old cars is as much repair and maintenance, far beyond just tuning.

[@EllweinEngines]

Happy New Year 2024 Joel. I sorted the valve body reliability video yesterday. Good material for 2024. thanks.

[@adamlegatt37]

Great job as always. Happy new year!

[@EllweinEngines]

Thanks! You too! Happy New Year 2024

[@robss96dcm]

The ideal way would be to have it in open loop at idle and as soon as you depressed the throttle, it would go close loop. GM used to run some early fuel injection systems like this.

[@EllweinEngines]

humm. that would be nice.

[@hpjunkie69]

Was the old fuel pump the cause of the previous issue with Injector Duty % being very high?

[@EllweinEngines]

Yes. That pump would only put out about 30 psi at WOT. Before I was aware of that I was programming to up the MAF and VE and that's why injector duty cycle was up there in the 90% range. Now it's 80% at WOT. I take full responsibility for "assuming" the car had a good fuel pump to begin with. I usually always check with a gauge early in the process. Not this time. oops. Still this car is generally awesome and well built. The Golen engine is damn good. The trans and clutch are tight and easy to shift.

[@DanOnFire]

@@EllweinEngines In defense of your assumption, we had a recent invoice for a quality, aftermarket fuel pump that the previous owner probably thought was installed. We had every reason to think the pump was not the problem.

[@EllweinEngines]

good to know your experience and mine. Now it will be "trust but verify" as the shop policy.

[@tnoutlaw73]

Did you splice the o2 connections? And if so what kind of soldier did you use? I was told never use a button splice and to always use a good 3 core electrical resin Flux soldier. Is this true?

[@EllweinEngines]

I have never splices O2 connection wires (or even soldered them). Have never had to repair an O2 connection. If I had to repair I would do exactly as the factory did...that is crimp-on (and not solder) the metri-pack terminals...or are they weather pack? whatever they are it is a simple crimp. The o2 sensors themselves need to have access to air on the termination but that is done at the manufacture. So....the long answer is..I have never soldered a connection for O2. Pretty sure that is not needed. I'm sure I could be wrong. That's one thing I know...I could be wrong.

[@tnoutlaw73]

@EllweinEngines I have noticed you have quite a bit of actual knowledge on the LT1 PCM. Thats why I wanted your input on the O2. Some people will tell you anything without a care in the world if something is messed up lol. I would trust your advice over anyone else from seeing what youve done with your own car. I bought everything to tune both of mine but have no idea where to start or how to do it. I can get a data log easily. But don't know how to change the files. I have the same Moats unit you have. Thank you for the info.