Probably not for quite a while. The owner still has to gather time and money to have it installed into his Pontiac Formula (My buddy Nabil will be doing the install). So probably when I do the street tuning for his car. A long time from now I think.

Spoken from experience? Do tell -

Thanks.

The owner doesn't have anything out of the ordinary for cooling except the Meziere electric water pump and his stock fbody cooling system. That is usually all that is needed.

Yes. I agree. I did not recommend that. I do think that people have fun doing whatever it is that they think is fun and this customer really wanted the AFR's to be ported even more. To each his own. I've don't plenty of (worthless) mods in the past myself. Not to say the porting was worthless but very low bang for the buck.

Yes. Exactly.

No. Not for that but this allows the use of less expensive and more available 2-piece rear main crank

@@EllweinEnginesi guess that is a valid factor but all internally balanced is added bonus (except 400). How much is seal adapter kit?

@@jacobnorth8642 I have not made these available yet for re-sale. I still have to put on one of my own engines and give it a good workout.

Thanks

I hear ya. I'm going to switch to E85 for my personal impala SS with an F2 super charger. That will give me actual experience with E85 and tuning for it.

@@EllweinEngines The cooling effect also is what people forget not just being able to make more power. Its like having meth injection in a sort of way.

Amen. Maybe some day? Their quality was top notch and their cam design was second to none.

@@EllweinEngines Absolutely fantastic and everything they touched for the LT1 stuff was FAST!

I'll try that next time. Thanks

pack it in dry ice for a quicker result? used to do that for injection molder bushings.

Oh yea! 650hp plus maybe?

with the AFR heads? Yes can do. Good news is that that AFR began to offer the AFR 227 head for the LT1 once again. So anyway...the crankshaft is $3000 plus and the AFR 227 are??? lets say around $2700. Then Jesel shaft rockers $1800. It's adding up fast. Lets estimate $15,000 (or more after all the little things add up). But you can email me and I'll give an official invoice estimate. [email protected]

​@@EllweinEnginesThat crank is not needed, heck @ 600hp a scat 9000 series would be plenty strong enough. I've seen people, many people run that horsepower level with bone stock 3.48" gm cranks, spraying them with nitrous. So really no need to drop 3k on a crank unless maybe your running boost at over the 1k hp level. I've only ever seen one crank actually break and that was from an 8-71 sitting on top of a 383 with like a pro comp crank in it and it broke the nose of it off.

Thank you 🤗 Ty

Yea, me too, but not for that it might make "the most power" but for it might blow up. :)

@@EllweinEngines Lol

Many options but the 1st thing I though of was just doing a hydraulic roller conversion with your current sbc. You have the best heads definitely.

your carb is running out of air and falling flat 650 is 305 carb lol

@@alonzahanks1182 absolutely not. 650 Is just fine on a 355. I could step up to a 750 but it’s not going to matter with a cam that won’t carry past 6,000. Lol to you.

@@Gregoman89 im used to stock cams heavy duration loves more air period even made 305 get up and go but can only hit pedal 3/4 till it gets about 3000 rpm then i punch it all the way and all 350 trucks came with 850 Rochester only cam that didnt care about more air and fuel is 106 to 108 LSA tow truck or race car and that was old school pointed lobes with little duration I have 97 chevy lt1 with little 48 mm Throttle body the tb is what held it back on hp to 285 its actually 52 mm with 4mm idle air hole stock cam drilled it to 1/8th inch idle became 1100 at idle doable 1st gear topped out at 50 mph 1.5 to 2 sec 60 ft its now a 807 cfm tb goes to 65 mph in first and does 1.97 60 mph in about 120 feet in the time it did 60 ft it was 52mm 732 cfm it is 54.5 cfm 807 cfm at wot you are pulling vac if under carbed and 355 bore loves to make more HP and tork

An Isky 292 mega cam (flat tappet) will rip right up to 7k with no problem! And has a sound to die for!!

Thanks 👍 You too

To answer the Gen 1 vs Gen 2 block comparison...I guess some Gen 1 blocks are actually better than Gen 2 but most Gen 1 (older) are not as good overall. Recently built a customer's GMPP 383 gen 1 small block Chevy and it was as good as the GEN II LT1. The 400 SBC gen 1 is certainly better the Gen II LT1. I would guess that neither block has an advantage for clearancing. All mostly the same bottom of the block area. For help with the 4" stroke clearance then smaller rod journals are a big big help.

​@@EllweinEnginessorry karl but from my experience the gen 2 blocks are much stronger, ive seen more problems with the deck cracking around the head bolts on the gen ones, especially the 400's once you push them hard nearing 4 digit levels. The splayed bottom end holds up pretty good its the decks and cyl walls we've always had problems with.

@@EllweinEnginesmy old man was using 400 blocks to make 700hp+ engines for dirt late model cars way back in late 80s early 90s. The last one he built for a friend still runs to this day. They actually used the 2 bolt blocks because the 4 bolt ones would wind up being weaker because not as much solid steel there. They were using extremely light crankshafts and internals so the force on the mains wasn’t as much as well. I’d imagine if it was heavier rotation the 4 bolt would be better.

@@stevenbelue5496Maybe it depends on the year and time era the blocks were casted? Id assume the gen 2 had better materials and some better metal vs older ones But Id guess maybe a current SBC1 from GM performance made and casted in recent times is as good? Not everything old is always good vice versa

​@Thumper68 When it comes to the old 400 sbc blocks if you were running 400-500hp really didn't matter 2 or 4 bolt as with all gen 1 sbc's really, But if you start climbing to that 700-800hp mark the 2 bolt mains were the way to go, opposite with a 350 block.

Man oh man Stevie...you tube has pushed this video and it may get as many views as yours (in a year or so from now). cool!!!!

use short header bolts on those inner bolts… gives u a lot of extra room to get them in

That was it...the short header bolts. That was the only thing that fit there. But I also hand hogged the hole to give more bolt access. That actual manifold was machined for LT1 bolt access via Advanced Induction (for way back in the day) It was to match a cylinder head of theirs and they drilled and tapped the center holes to match the intake manifold so those center holes of the Gen 1 intake can be used. The other manifold bolt holes could be hogged out by hand if need be. TPV Productions has a good how to to make a Gen 1 manifold fit on a Gen 2 cylinder head (he does it by hand). kzbin.info/www/bejne/g3vCqZdopa-YbZIsi=X54mHKBVIp2FHPes

Interesting, I maybe have a different single plane intake, because currently I have to have the studs ran down into my heads, which are run almost flush with the intake, and then I put a nut on the very edge of the thread, then walk the stud back up. It’s a slow process, but my intake runners run so close to the LT1 holes that we couldn’t fit the stock LT1 intake bolts in there.

cool. Thanks for your vote of confidence on my building skills

Thank you very much. Trying to give as much info as possible (and get the customer work finished at the same time)

Good question. I don’t really have a “good” answer. Only one advantage is that the engine goes right back into the car it came from and can be plugged right back into the factory harness (and tuned by a good tuner). There are so many other stronger combinations available for the money (and LS1 heads are in another universe compared to LT1 heads) but now sticking to the LT1 has become the "different and unusual". Almost refreshing to see an LT1 in and LT1 car.

@@EllweinEngines thanks for answering that makes sense

That new LT1 block they had at pri was badass, for gen 1 or 2, an aluminum version would be the shit.

This is an LT1 channel. That’s why!

Matching numbers block increases value but that’s a lot of cubes out of that block.

Thank you very much. Hopefully you see the Rippie today

Thanks.

Yes. See ya there.

No not the HPTuners for “tuning”. Just for monitoring and data logging. I have to use JETDst for LT1 1996 and the better TunerPro for 1995 1994 (for dash tuning)

Yes, I prefer that HP for any and all engines, even bone stock. My builds always target 0.002" mains minimum and 0.003" max for #1/2/3/4 and .003 to .004" for the rear main. Rods are always 0.002 to 0.0025"

@@EllweinEngines Thank you know i have to rip the oil pan off again and replace spring before i drop back into car lol

Yes. Most definitely. If no windage tray there will be oil and air. You'll see 40 psig at the gauge but that's oil and air

Thank you and that’s what thought

me too....don't tell anyone I said that.

@@EllweinEngines 💯 lol.

These LS1 PCM mods do not give more power over a well tuned LT1 PCM. They give access to good data logging software and tuning software.

Thanks. He's planning to use it for only the drag stip. Very little street.

Thanks 👍 After reviewing how rough the engine ran of the test stand I'm going to ditch the efi for the dyno and go with carburetor. That will simplify troubleshooting (if any is needed)

I'll see if I can find the photos of a set of iron heads that Lloyd Elliot did for a customer about 2 years ago.

@@EllweinEngines Thanks very much. Finally getting around to building a LT-1 that I literally found in the mud ($40). I think it will make a stout little motor for a dd g-body.