First Thoughts: Rolex 1908 in Platinum

[@kojiattwood]

Pardon the semi-rant from a dress watch fanatic, but this is so close, and yet so far (particularly considering the retail price). The proportions look off because of the 39 mm size-it would look far more elegant at 36mm, and along that vein a slimmer version of the observatory hands (akin to what they did with the Etude #1 in Bill Sander's group) would be desirable. The Explorer 1 style applied numerals are akin to wearing tan loafers with a navy double-breasted suit, ie: out of place and incongruous. Shrink down the small seconds and get rid of the silly "superlative chronometer" boast (it's a dress watch, after all). And finally, ditch the syloxi, and instead utilize the parachrom hairspring; and I know it needs a Breguet overcoil, so would it kill you Rolex to make a hand-wound movement so it's overall slimmer (and again, it's a dress watch, after all).

[@WatcheswithDennis]

Wow, that's a lot of specifics. I noted in another reply I have seen the Arabic hour markers in this format done well (by Chopard) but they bug me here... the font choice or size or something but I do not care for it much. But I get that it is "the look" they are doing on all the 1908s. Thanks for all the thoughts!

[@kojiattwood]

@@WatcheswithDennis Appreciate your review and giving us lunatics a forum for sharing our thoughts--

[@doriangray2347]

If this was hand wound, i would not think twice. I love this as is though. I think the size will make sense in person. This might be my first expensive watch.

[@MartyKeegan]

I think it's stunning without being pretentious-- including the leather band.

[@ScottyPinball]

This is a great looking watch. I think they nailed it.

[@WatcheswithDennis]

Definitely a better looking movement than from their sister company! 😂

[@ScottyPinball]

@@WatcheswithDennis I just ordered my 925. My decision was largely due to exhibition caseback. I'll send you some high res photos of the movement when it arrives😁

[@WatcheswithDennis]

@@ScottyPinball May it bring you joy!

[@C.M.Cummings]

Dennis the platinum 1908 will only be available in Bucherer; same for any future complicated or precious metal 1908s (moon phase, titanium, rose gold, chime, etc). Agree?

[@WatcheswithDennis]

Hmmm, I'll say "no" but maybe at first. I'm still not convinced these will see enough demand for that. We know most brands clearly denote if something can only be available at a particular venue (as the ADs would figure out they can't get them in anyway). I don't think Rolex really needs to prop Bucherer up in the same way Swatch is using the MoonSwatch to prop up their brick and mortar stores. But, it isn't something I've thought much on. I do think you are correct that it would be more likely if they roll out complications to the line. They'd make fewer of those anyway and it would make sense to use them to drive traffic somewhere.

[@obesetuna3164]

Bargain Dennis! Mercedes hand aside, the 1908 is a solid effort from Rolex. After all, the Cellini is dead. Except for maybe the President, the remainder of what Rolex has to offer is of limited appeal to a dress watch kind of person.

[@WatcheswithDennis]

Price retail is quite reasonable. I still am not in love with how they do the numerals. I think it is the font as there is a Chopard XPS with the 12 3 9 configuration that I really like (the reference 161948-5003).

[@obesetuna3164]

In the real world Dennis, I am not sure that I would opt for it. When it comes to dress watches, there are so many big hitters/ choices out there. Money wise, this would be a huge jump for me at least.@@WatcheswithDennis

[@chia-mingyang5804]

I am a big fan of dress watches, but I don't agree for this watch 39mm is too big, especially with a 9.5mm thickness. I have own a Credor Eichi II(39mm/10.3mm) for more than four years but I have never wished it's smaller. The overall proportion is just right and a relatively larger size is easier to enjoy details from dial and movement.

[@yr5135]

I gotta say when I saw an advertisement for this watch it made me buy my first watch. I managed to find something as similar as possible within my budget.

[@WatcheswithDennis]

I'm glad it could serve as a useful inspiration. There are quite a few interesting watches with guilloché patterns, and small-second functions, out there and I think we're seeing a lot more appear at the more affordable end of the spectrum. This isn't my favored combination but it is resonating with a lot of collectors.

[@jbizzlemysizzle]

@yr5135 what did you end up getting? I really like the guilloche pattern and the color, but the price is pretty out there. I'm wondering what might be similar.

[@robynsjp]

The Sub, Speedy and Reverso are icons in 2024 more than 50 years after their creation. Let's wait 2074 and see whether the 1908 will have the same status ...

[@ozmondos]

It will get discontinued long before that like the Cellini.

[@jaywhite1141]

I love it. It’s a beautiful colour and a beautiful watch.

[@doriangray2347]

This is my favorite watch of 2024. That’s saying a lot. However, i dont know if someone in my family will kill me for spending this. It has everything i need, in the proper ratio and beauty, and accuracy.

[@WatcheswithDennis]

If it has everything you desire then you know your answer! This is a watch that I think will sell for less used so maybe wait and see what happens with it on the second-hand market if you have cost concerns.

[@pete6705]

I think it’s beautiful. Not something I would personally ever buy, looks like it’s for an old rich businessman, which I am not. Or at least needs to be worn with a nice suit, and I rarely wear suits

[@Point-hc9gy]

At this price Patek 6119 a better value

[@WatcheswithDennis]

I concur. I personally think the 6119 looks better too.

[@ozmondos]

The 1908 was doomed from the start. It will meet Cellini's fate. Why would people buy this when they can get Patek, Vacheron or ALS at a similar price point? Also, the guilloche isn't done personally unlike the bigger brands.

[@WatcheswithDennis]

This is my struggle as well. If Rolex started using the 1908 to gatekeep people into getting the sports stuff I could see it work. But the big difference is this time-only dress stuff tends to be on the lower end of pricing for the brands you cited whereas Rolex has plenty of sub-$10k watch models and I don't think anyone is spending over $20k for the right to buy a Datejust. Plus, we know the time-only stuff from the more prestigious brands sells for less second-hand than new (people dumping models they only bought to get to the more complicated stuff) so the competition isn't just the new watches it's that huge inventory of used (one can get a variety of VC Patrimony pretty easily for well under $15k all day on Chrono24).

[@JohnSchroeder-c2x]

It is done by hand with a rose engine allegedly

[@Point-hc9gy]

Excellent review. @30k not worth a Rolex

[@thannguyenthe6188]

Quá Ok

[@musiclover4311]

It's a Rolex and I'm so done with Rolex.