Building a Better Rack (Part 3) - The Essentials

[@jacobkantor3886]

18:54 you should consider elongating the tails on that knot. I've actually had a double fisherman on a cordelette fail on me because the ends were too short, although they were probably shorter than the one on yours.

[@JimBridgerHarney]

This was sort of mentioned elsewhere, but I wasn’t satisfied with the answer- when one bolt is higher than the other it is done purely to make sure the wear is uneven, and the hangers or chains wear out at different enough times that there is always at least one bolt available for belay/rappel, or to use as an anchor while you replace the other bolt.

[@alanemery1953]

Just another use for your nut tool is to clean out cracks of any dirt or sticks that may of washed into the crack over time. Nothing really important, but I thought it may be worth mentioning for new climbers.

[@dukeofnuke2446]

Regarding your question to the two bolts on top of each other, it is a thing coming from european alpine climbing where you will find bolts in that configuration and they are meant to be equalized like this : kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqanpKJod62lpdk

[@chtclimbing]

Hey whats up, Im Jose and wanted to say thanks for the video. I am fascinated by your equipment, and you give very clear explanations. A great video overall.

[@jacobkantor3886]

Im confused, you call your setup a PAS, but seem to be talking about it as if it were you anchor that you were belaying off of. When I think PAS, i think of something i use to clip into gear while im setting up the actual anchor or as a quick thing to use on multipitch rappels. So in the context im thinking of, you would never put any serious load on the anchor, as you are simply hanging from it for sort periods of time, hence why i use those daisy chain type things that metolius sells.

[@Govanification]

He is very loosely using the term "PAS", which is a specific product, the Metolius PAS, but has now been adopted as casual lingo much like "ATC", which originated as a Black Diamond product but is now a term generally used for any tube-style belay device. A PAS is a specific multi-loop sewn chain that is NOT intended to be used as a stand-alone anchor but rather something that's always attached to your harness, typically by girth hitching through both tie-in points, that you can quickly clip to the wall. He does NOT show a real PAS in his video, hence the confusion. What he is really talking about is anchors, just regular old anchors. Generally if you are clove-hitching into something that is attached to the wall, then it's an anchor. His preferred method with 4 strands in the master point is called "the quad", but he also shows a sliding x and a simple pre-equalized knotted anchor with both slings and cord. His old method of clipping one carabiner to his harness and two independent slings to two bolts is also just an anchor, but has no equalization. He starts calling these systems a "PAS" because he was also using it at the top of sport routes to clean before a rappel, so it's kind of his "personal" anchor then, but it's still not a PAS.

[@ratherbyexploring4898]

He doesn’t actually have a PAS, he sets up this “quick-anchor” then clove hitches the rope (still tied in to) into the center locker. The rope is his PAS.

[@willlamonica4380]

Really good video series. Thanks!

[@gearaddictclimber2524]

Could you do a video about tricams since you climb/live near the gunks?

[@Qreepii]

Hey bud, a little trick I use when equalizing pieces with cordalette. I clovehitch near the knot on one of my outside pieces so it doesn't move while I equalize through the other placements. I find it makes it quicker and easier to get the anchor together.

[@edvin396]

Hey man. Fist off I love your videos. I am just transitioning to sport climbing and your videos is such a inspiration to me. When you are using the cord, is it I fully static cord and can you use a cord that is rated for 16,4 kN as long as it is dobbeld up?

[@ezikiel121212]

That PAS is a quad anchor

[@ezikiel121212]

And thanks for the info, helped me a ton!!

[@MrGavgav12345]

Does your PAS system not risk triaxially loading the central biner?

[@windriver2363]

No, it doesn't.

[@windriver2363]

What thickness are your PAS and cordelette? They look to be 6mm and 7mm respectively, but that's just a guess.

[@FirstPersonBeta]

I suppose I never said anything about that in the video. The Yellow one is a 7mm prepackaged length (Don't remember the brand but I think it was Sterling). The Blue one I'm pretty sure is a 6mm.

[@jacobtrick7423]

@@FirstPersonBeta is there a reason for using 6mm for the quad. Im Thinking about making one. So im just curious.

[@louistheriault3900]

About the cordelette length for the quad anchor... its not 16ft, more likely 20ft. I went and bought 16 ft of cordelette, made the quad anchor and it was way too short. I had to cut another length of rope lol

[@AntonZlatkov]

Putting the bolts one on top of the other is usually done on single sport climbs to make sure the climbers rappel rather than being lowered (which is only putting load on the topmost bolt). That way the hardware will last longer.

[@lucashenry2210]

The only problem i can see with your pas is shock loading your point in case of a failure wich is kind of dangerous as i have been learned. But overwise great videos love them

[@Elirocks32]

With the quad anchor (his preferred and current method) you can reduce shock loading by moving the overhand knots towards the direction of pull.

[@taylorlapeyre]

With respect to your PAS system - especially on grade 3+ climbs - why not just clove into the shelf or master point with a locker? Every climber I've met in Yosemite does that for multipitch anchors. For cleaning or rappelling, everyone I know just girth hitches a couple slings to their tie-in points. Done and done.