Ford 4.0l OHV intake gaskets replacement

This is for the old non-overhead cam engine
Song: Markvard - Obsessed (Vlog No Copyright Music)
Music provided by Vlog No Copyright Music.
Video Link: • Markvard - Obsessed (V...

[@stephaniebranham6914]

Best educational video I’ve seen on that particular job on a 4.0. Thank you very much sir!!

[@clutch5sp989]

Thanks for the video. It's a great thing to see what's needed and the process before beginning repair work.

[@Veikra]

You're welcome

[@16mmDJ]

Best video on this job I’ve Seen. Thanks a lot

[@Veikra]

You're welcome and thanks. Please consider liking and subscribing!

[@FINELINEVAN]

Finally The only complete video and a real good video showing how to do the complete upper and lower intake on the 1998 ford ranger as well as pointing out the silicone on the front and rear rails that needs to be placed. I am just thinking of replacing the upper intake gaskets seems when I spray intake cleaner as soon as it hits the top intake it speeds so slightly up.. My Ranger only has 100k miles and no leaking valve covers either. I figure why pull it all apart unless its all leaking. Only other vacuum hose leaks could be are short hose on EGR and thats fine some with break booster hose. Ill buy the full kit in case im wrong then do the whole thing, it doesnt look to hard to remove upper and replace it if need be again to get to lower setup. Truck is not daily driver and have garage to work in.

[@Veikra]

Do the whole thing. It's gonna allow you access to cam sensor, which often leaks oil.

[@alb12345672]

Also: the 96 has a large bracket that goes over the passenger valve cover to the exhaust for the coil. The bolt in the exhaust manifold is hard to remove. There is also an egr pipe on the passenger side, makes things harder. That can easily add an hour to the job.

[@Veikra]

I hear you, Bolts in manifolds are always troublesome.

[@alb12345672]

I bought all Ford OEM gaskets. They were a few dollars more than the aftermarket. My lower intake was not leaking but I had everything apart anyway. They lasted 24 years.

[@Veikra]

24 years, thats allowed to fail at that point. In cold climate with the higher change in engine temperature they tend to fail more often

[@duleyrocha]

Thanks for your great help

[@Veikra]

No worries!

[@kevinoverholtzer3126]

I have been working on this same job that you did so easy for a while I that e 7 tool came in a set of 7 sockets and cost about 26$ I think it is worth it though because with out it you cant torque the fuel rail studs. THanks for the video with out videos like yours I would not have the nerve to attempt this job.

[@Veikra]

Wasnt too bad afterall hmm?

[@barrya.6212]

@@Veikra A GREAT TRICK to remove the individual fuel injector harness clips is a standard paint can opener ....they have the perfect little hook to them to release fuel injector clips. They only cost like 50 cents at hardware store.

[@barrya.6212]

@@Veikra SMART CALL on replacing the cam sensor / synchronizer while having that easy access ...I had to do mine and total nightmare --I even took off upper plenum and still a headache...well that was part of headache...and then it was stuck...and it was old school kind with viewable vane....dial in procedure etc....good times...

[@Veikra]

@@barrya.6212 yeah we have it easy with coil on plugs nowaday :)

[@user-mp5oc3jf7y]

Hey quest do I need to remove the valve covers in order to get the intake out

[@silviosegredosdaoficina.]

Obrigado pelo vídeo me ajudou muito!!!!

[@Veikra]

obrigado pelo comentário gentil. Faz a filmagem valer a pena

[@clutch5sp989]

Spent some time yesterday tearing down. PLEASE inform everyone about the fuel injector connectors and what a pain they are to get off not breaking the tabs. I was successful carefully working one tab cocking the connector then touching the other while pulling on the wires gently. My pet peeve is broken connectors and will replace em the right way if they break.

[@Veikra]

Nah it's your technique. (unless yours are different). I didnt have problems You can push the connector in toward the injector, then press the pin on the long side and it liberate both sides at once :)

[@Joey80485]

I have a 97 ford ranger 4.0 and it runs rough and I just can't figure it out,I thought the manifold would be hard to get off but after watching u I think that's gonna be my next move,see whats going on underneath because I think my problem is under there

[@Veikra]

They are notorious for bad intake gasket and mass air flow sensor troubles.

[@Jc2260]

Thanks for the video. It looks like you used a two-piece intake manifold gasket, is that right? If so, did you just use RTV sealant on the front and back engine block edges - the part you showed that lacked RTV? So there is not actually a gasket on those edges?

[@Veikra]

Yes I show and explain that in the video. Rtv on both front and back else MASSIVE oil leaks will occur

[@cannman35]

I'm looking to replace the valve cover gaskets on my 4.0L. I definitely have oil leaking, and from what I can see it's leaking from the back of the valve covers. How would I know if the lower intake was possibly leaking? I should add that the engine runs great, smooth and there are no codes - it's just the annoying oil leak.

[@Veikra]

You could use a smoke machine to send smoke in the valve covers and see where it comes out. Otherwise, a cheap camera tool might help you see where it comes from. First step is to clean everything up and run it for a while to better see where the leak is.

[@cannman35]

@@Veikra thank you, great tip!

[@joshuaward692]

So between the plastic intake and the upper fuel rail, there is only the rubber gaskets? My Felpro kit came with two gaskets that match the fuel rail intake ports.

[@Veikra]

There are gasket for everything in the kit I installed, excpet front and rear valley seals

[@alb12345672]

My valve covers rotted thru. Had to get salvage ones and repainted. Where the bolt holes are. Same engine but explorer. Edit: Every ones of these has rusty valve covers. I wonder if it is an electrolysis problem.

[@Veikra]

bad factory paint im guessing.

[@lennong89]

Very helpful! Thinking of taking this job on once it warms up.. how much rtv is needed on the lower intake manifold?

[@Veikra]

Only enough to seal the front and rear of the valley, a small tube will do

[@edvinneluis2635]

I also put ultra gray rtv on the coolant passages on the heads and intake new gaskets torque to spects and no coolant leaks. 😀

[@Veikra]

@@edvinneluis2635 ALWAYS torque to spec. Also nice job and it's not bad afteral is it?

[@barrya.6212]

@@Veikra ME AGAIN.... I noticed at point 10:20 in your video here you have a THREE PART fuel rail gasket setup ! ....for my '95 I got the two paper gaskets in kit -- with rubber upper plenum "ring gaskets" and the guys on the Explorer forum said I only need ONE paper gasket for my 95 fuel rail ! .....they said the kit was probably covering other years as well for ones that required more.....seemed odd at the time....NOR HAVE I SEEN the thick rubber gasket you have in BETWEEN the two paper ones.... did you get that separately or did it come with "kit" for a / your 1999 only ??

[@Veikra]

@@barrya.6212 That's part of the intake. They put that to increase plenum volume or fit longer injectors on some years models. Some have it, some dont. It's not rubber its plastic

[@wj_adventure_newb]

Do you need rtv if you're using thr one piece Felpro lower intake gasket? Its got that rubberized stuff on both the front and back

[@Veikra]

You should be good without if you clearly see the intake will seal the valley. Id make sure it does. Usually you'll need some rtv in the sharp corners only

[@brianleveque3697]

@veikra Great video! Liked and sub! Very impressed that you answer comments! I've got this job waiting in the wings on a '94 ranger 4.0 ohv(bad oil leak). What do you think of the one piece gasket for the lower intake manifold?

[@Veikra]

Thanks. The gasket between cylinder heads and lower intake that covers the front and rear of the valley? I`d rock it but I'd put a drop of sealant in all the corners

[@brianleveque3697]

Yes, there are several vendors besides Ford that sell a one piece lower gasket now. I mean, I like rtv(Hondabond being my all time favorite!) and sometimes its the only solution that works. However, I've also seen lots of rtv bits in an oil pan or even a radiator so using it as anything more than a corner sealer gives me pause. I really do like that Mahle gasket kit though since it includes everything that could be needed! Maybe I'll go for that kit plus a one piece lower gasket. Thanks much for the input! I'll post my results if I can remember ;)

[@otisbaxter5426]

Great video. Do you have to take the entire manifold off to get to the cam synchro or can you just remove the plastic?

[@Veikra]

Wrong engine. There's no cam in those heads, nor variable timing phasers

[@otisbaxter5426]

7:23 that sensor at the back (black round one with 2 bolts). Is it required to take the lower manifold off or can you just remove the upper plastic intake off to access it?

[@danieldunn3141]

when you said "Lost some footage but make sure to seal the front and back of the valley between both gaskets" This may be dumb question but what exactly are you using to seal that?

[@Veikra]

Theres no dumb questions, only dumb answers. You can use the RTV that comes with the gasket set . Thanks for watching ! Please subscribe!

[@danieldunn3141]

@@Veikra Done, thanks!

[@palesolemn3140]

I have a 1999 ford ranger 4.0 v6 ohv with upper and lower vacuum leaks. Looks just like my engine correct? Can you recommend a gasket kit for this? Thank you

[@Veikra]

I used the master gasket kit from mahle. I find it complete and never had issues. Be sure to seal the lower intake in those often forgotten spots in front and rear.

[@palesolemn3140]

@@Veikra thank you sir

[@Spiritusanto16]

Liked the video, I got a tiny leak from the thermostat housing and I want to remove the lower intake so, does it have any especial bolt to remove the intake like torx bolt or regular bolts? Because another ohv truck like this one, the lower intake had torx bolts in order to revome it. Obrigado brother

[@Veikra]

Yes there is a E7 tork somewhere I recall

[@Spiritusanto16]

@@Veikra thanks, what number part is the gasket that goes to the cam, the lower one?

[@Veikra]

@@Spiritusanto16 i do not know, but your part guy should be able to find it

[@lilkp1975]

yo! how come that that piece isnt connect to egr pipe? i cant remove mine because of the EGR pipe

[@Veikra]

timestamp for 'that' piece please

[@kevinoverholtzer3126]

wow good video don't know why u got only 2500 views but I would of liked a explanation on the e 7 tool that is needed

[@Veikra]

the e 7 tool ? I don't recall a special tool , but then again I have so many special tools they are no longer special to me. Let me know ill try and explain

[@kevinoverholtzer3126]

@@Veikra I now understand the e 7 is a star shaped socket I had trouble finding it at autozone and they did not know at the time

[@Veikra]

@@kevinoverholtzer3126 Exactly, is it the most common on Mercedes vehicules so I had them

[@happylilpawzmaltese]

where did you buy the upper intake gasket set

[@Veikra]

Autopart place online

[@mitchc6201]

I just read something that said to put a small bead of rtv around the coolant ports aswell as the valleys. I already put it together and I didn’t put any on the coolant ports, will I be ok? Any advice? Thanks

[@Veikra]

it depends on the brand of gasket you installed. Check the instruction on the set of gaskets. Perhaps you dont need it. My set didnt require it

[@mitchc6201]

@@Veikra got it, thanks for the response. I also noticed at 12:40 when you replace “the figure 8” gaskets, you put the intake manifold directly onto the fuel rail with only the “figure 8” gaskets. The kit I bought comes with not only the figure 8 gaskets but a big felt one that looks to go on top of the fuel rail and then the manifold with the rubber figure 8s sit on top of that. I’m just curious if the thick felt gasket is necessary or not and why yours didn’t have it? Thank you.

[@Veikra]

@@mitchc6201 id have to see but maybe it goes elsewhere or you have a kit that fit different engines . Perhaps it's for an older model with an aluminium intake instead of plastic

[@FINELINEVAN]

I assume the fuel rail torque are 16 as well with m7 socket.

[@Veikra]

yes, same clamping force, just on a different fastener

[@FINELINEVAN]

Is there a bolt sequence for valve covers and intake when tightening it all back up

[@Veikra]

middle to extremities.

[@FINELINEVAN]

@@Veikra Just finished the whole job thanks to your video made me go for it. Glad I did. Lot of stuff to get out of the way but it the end my 98 Ranger 4.0 after 24 years though only has 105k miles She still holding strong

[@Veikra]

@@FINELINEVAN Im glad to be responsible for a job well done, even if I didnt touch it haha ! Intake and fuel pump regulator tube inside the tank are the common issues. Very low miles indeed. You owe me a beer :D

[@zachmarker3825]

I have a wire behind the AC compressor that goes under it. I cannot figure out how to unplug it or get it out of the way. Does anybody know? 98 Ford Ranger 4.0L. I **really** do not want to touch any of the AC lines.

[@Veikra]

You should be able to unbolt the compressor and move it enough to undo the wire without disconnecting the ac lines

[@theoutdoorsman5727]

how long did this take you to do the whole job?

[@Veikra]

couple hours, rather relax, fix it once and for all deal

[@moosecat3773]

Just wrapped up this job on a 94 Mazda b4000, has the metal intake. On startup I notice gas coming from drivers side exhaust manifold. Checked wires, nope they right. Checked plugs #6 wet. Coil has less than 1k. Spark test showed they all work. Any ideas?

[@Veikra]

leaky injector :)

[@moosecat3773]

@@Veikra My man! Thanks for the follow up. This helped me out a ton

[@Veikra]

@@moosecat3773 did you find the source of your wet plug in #6 ?

[@moosecat3773]

@@Veikra Ebay injector. I hooked up the fuel lines to the fuel rail and turned key to power on. #6 just spraying non stop. You were right.

[@Veikra]

@@moosecat3773 Glad I want on to something and you found it quick. Just because some part is new doesnt mean it works. I literaly just got a bad brand new thermostat for a audi a8 (not mine). Then the replacement got blocked and sent back to seller by dhl. Third one fixed the car, good temps, fast warm up. Theres also thousands of bad cv joints sold everywhere that do not fit an audi a8. Flange has a 89mm ring, transmission requires a 87mm. Oh well, happy driving and thanks for watching.

[@VA7LFD]

You wouldn't be located in Vancouver BC by chance? My 94 Explorer Intake just started leaking. I'm so upset. Repair will be more than the value of the truck and I love the truck. Love to fix but times are tough.

[@Veikra]

No, I'm on the other side of the country :( You're gonna have to do it yourself. Gaskets are cheap, even if you end up doing it twice. Good luck and prayer to you!

[@VA7LFD]

@@Veikra thank you.

[@jessemcdonald9119]

Roughly how much would this job cost if it were done for another client

[@Veikra]

car repair cost varies greatly from place to place. salaries are different so is part cost. It's probably quoted around 3h of time and 300$ of parts. but then again, canada part cost are different than usa uk australia mexico etc

[@markmoore338]

I am at the point of taking the lower intake off(on your video at 6:40), but it wont come off. It moves but are there clips that anchor on something underneath? So give it xtra pull?

[@markmoore338]

yes, 8 bolts need to be removed!

[@Veikra]

Did you find the issue? Forgot a bolt?

[@markmoore338]

Hah.yes forgot a bolt.

[@Veikra]

@@markmoore338 Good Dont forget rtv for the front and back of valley if your gasket dont include it

[@markmoore338]

@@Veikra Yes, will not forget that. On your fuel injector gasket you had two gaskets plus a middle rubber one. I had only one on there and have read some need two. I ordered an xtra one just in case but I definitely don't have the middle rubber piece.

[@opentheozon3]

So dumb question. Did you drain the coolant or oil before tackling this job?

[@Veikra]

coolant drain only, then did oil change after

[@opentheozon3]

@@Veikra thank you! Merry Christmas!

[@emilioosti5736]

So I’m planing on doing this job on my 2000 ranger with same 4.0 ohv engine. The only special socket that I would need is the E7? I got plenty of tools but might not have that one around got to check.

[@Veikra]

Yes, rest is pretty standard

[@anastasiolanda9729]

Is this the same process on a ford explorer 97 4.0 ohv??

[@Veikra]

Yes, same process, slightly different intake . Most bolts are in the same place, though.

[@anastasiolanda9729]

@@Veikra upper And lower ?

[@Veikra]

@@anastasiolanda9729 yes, but most differences are the size and shape of the ports. It's the same job, the intake simply looks a bit different.

[@anastasiolanda9729]

@@Veikra ok thanks

[@cited_jupiter7]

Do you have a parts list? And links to the parts I would need?

[@cited_jupiter7]

@Veikra

[@Veikra]

@@cited_jupiter7 intake manifold full set. Theres a mahle kit with everything you need

[@kamryn7496]

I had 2000 b4000 I made a video on it was a nice truck

[@Veikra]

nice tiny truck which dont exist anymore. Only big pickups now

[@FINELINEVAN]

I have to ask. Ok I have done everything on this ranger 4.0 changed the intakes, Smoke tested, changed all the O2 sensors , fuel pump and pressure sensor in tank. chasing this lean code shft. When I start and goes into closed loop the STFT ranges from 0 to 12 and stay in that in idle for say 10 miles then out of nowhere its jumps to 22 to 25% and will stay that on live data for same amount of time. Then it will drop back to normal reading 0 to say 15. and the cycle continues 10 miles give or take. When I give it gas the levels rise but in idle it stay 0 in normal range until it goes into the 25% range, weird. Then when it takes off out of normal range to higher when I give it gas STFT is 25 per as is LTFT but the long term when i give it gas will drop to as low as 3 till I take my foot off gas and it will go back to 25. Have you ever heard of this and what can cause it? Only thing I have not changed was EGR valve I did change DPFE sensor hoping it may be that EGR is a bear to get off. What are your thoughts.. BTW the truck runs perfectly fine if it didnt throw p0171 P0174 codes I would never know there is a issue. Someone said it could be computer not working right. Its driving me nuts. Any suggestion would be greatful.

[@Veikra]

dont worry about stft fluctuating, thats exactly what they should do. That's how the engine comes up with the long term fuel trim value to add or remove gas. Now, I have seen that tube going from MAF to throttle having a leak where the other tube of the pcv goes in. Unmettered air going in, or low fuel pressure. Those engine often do those code when the tube in the tank on the returnless style system crack between pump and regulator, leaving low fuel pressure but you've checked that. Egr is possible, so is IAC being gummed up. On this truck in the video, the IAC was loose and rattling and it's an old type system so computer wont know about it. You could block off the egr port as a test too

[@Veikra]

Either too much unmettered air or not enough fuel pressure

[@FINELINEVAN]

@@Veikra Yes I replaced the fuel pump, fuel sensor, MAF all 02 sensors and the IAC smoke tested for leaks replaced all the hoses. But the Short term levels start off normal 0 to 15% mainly staying under 5% the weird thing is after 20 min of running normal then go so off the charts for 20 min in the high 25%then come back drop to normal 20 min later.. If it was a vac leak wouldnt STFT be high at the start and stay high.....? Thanks again. I checked and ran gas pressure meter on truck its stays a high 60 pounds and gas filter replaced. Ill try blocking off EGR and see if it is maybe staying stuck allowing air in then close. You been a great help. After awhile if I cant solve this will just block of with black tape the check engine light, even the exhaust smells clean no carbon or gas smell as it purrs along. The trucks in perfect garaged condition inside and out just like it to be right.

[@Veikra]

@@FINELINEVAN How long does it take to get into closed loop if you drive it? if vaccum leak then it doesnt mean the short term would go high. During warmup it will run a stable map thats in open loop management. Makes sure all those informations are in closed loop and remains in closed loop. If theres something pulling it out of closed loop it would definitely look weird. .

[@FINELINEVAN]

@@Veikra under a min then goes closed loop and stays low as it should 20 min or do later it will Jack itself to plus 25% up to 30. Then 20 min later settle back to normal levels again. And do this as I drive

[@diegoresendiz8599]

What codes does it have?

[@Veikra]

Mostly bad idle, rough running, inconsistant running dependant on temperature. And lean running codes

[@FINELINEVAN]

I am lost at this point. I had replaced everything that would cause a vac leak. The entire intake lower, upper and fuel rail gasket and the o ring on fuel injectors. The hoses, Before doing it Ismoke tested, sprayed all area for leaks and none showed up a problem, I also changed, 02 sensors, new MAF even though scanner showed them to be working fine to eliminate cause . The fuel pressure stays steady at 65psi even at 2500 rpm and it still will give off PO171 and 174 not right away but eventually The truck runs fine. My my trim levels Short term will be around 20% 25% Long the same range , But what is weird and may be a clue because I watch live data out of the bluetrying to understand this........... I will look down and for awhile the short term trim levels will go normal -5 to plus 10 but average 0 then 15 min later back up in the 20s again or if I shut off truck and turn it back on . I dont know where to go next? Could it be a bad fuel injector? intermt issue? If It did nt blow check engine code I would never know because it rides so well. Any advice would be greatful its a 98 4.0 OHV Ohh I made sure I used the silicone came in kit for the front and rear areas. since its doing the same thing it did before now I feel it didnt need to be done but everything I did to eliminate a cause . The truck also has 105k miles looks new inside and the engine bay as well. I did not mind changing it all being its almost 25 years old.This is making me crazy hahah.

[@Veikra]

how is the EGR holding vacuum on the diaphram? Could be a good intermitant source of air . Clean IAC and PCV check valve too

[@FINELINEVAN]

@@Veikra I replaced IAC . EGR That thing is on there so solid. I would have replaced that. I’m going out of town for awhile when I get back I’ll get it off and replace it I was thinking it may be vacuum being intermittent. PVC replaced that and hose.

[@FINELINEVAN]

Thanks for replying. You like my mentor on this project

[@edvinneluis2635]

I love the 4.0 ohv hate the 4.0 sohc

[@Veikra]

They only really have that intake problem and once done they are ok. Buit thirsty but i'd rather pay more gas than having problems

[@915fubar]

So I have to remove the valve covers in order to reach the intake manifold gaskets?

[@Veikra]

Yes, just like a 90s 3.4 Gm

[@barrya.6212]

FOR the lower / main intake gasket yes....but you might just need to do the upper intake / plenum --rubber gasket inserts....the headache with that one is un-doing the egr tube so it goes back in / seals correctly back into the upper intake....sometimes you can work the intake into it and leave it in place but must lower/start intake down on studs first..

[@lashlarue7924]

8:30 - 🤯 why the F would anyone do such an abjectly stupid thing? I’ve never even rebuilt an engine, and even I have enough knowledge from KZbin to understand how to apply RTV gasket!!

[@Veikra]

Boggle my mind. My money is on drugs and alcohol. Wrenching under the influence is a crime !

[@rideout0011]

What is with that stupid music??? Not needed.

[@Veikra]

Press M

[@jimmylee7382]

Hate good videos with lousy music

[@Veikra]

Thank youtube copyright rules...