Fox Float DPS Performance Series FULL service guide for beginners. Damper, Air can, Control knobs

[@bomberstudios]

Even though I *love* working on my bike, I will probably never attempt a full shock service. But if I do, I will forever be grateful for this video. Thanks a lot for this 🧡

[@zoubtube]

Thank for taking the time to watch it and for the comment. All I can say is after your first time your confidence will go through the roof. If you ever decide to do the job, let me know and I will help in any way I can 👍

[@thomaslee207]

@@zoubtube whats the tool at 1:22:08 called? you never mentioned it

[@zoubtube]

@@thomaslee207 Fox Shox Pellet Retainer Tool. You can buy one of make some out of a 5/32 allen key

[@BurritoMaster24]

thank you for this video i wouldn't have been able to do it without you. what happened was I snapped my damper piston rod at the damper threading when i hit a high speed rock garden. I had to follow the rebuild instructions fox provided which was just not enough information to get the job done. You showed me how to use the nitrogen needle properly and make my own tool to do it. Fantastic thank you very much! now my shock rides like brand new!

[@zoubtube]

"what happened was I snapped my damper piston rod at the damper threading when i hit a high speed rock garden." OUCH! Outstanding Job with servicing the shock myman! 👏👏👏 It makes me so glad to hear that you were able to take the bull by the horns and deal with it! 🦾 Now it's time to go back out there and have fun trying to destroy it again! 👍😁

[@imaxpo]

Thank you for this video, it is very clear and detailed, I am from Kazakhstan. Nobody does this here, and I have a Giant trance x bike. I will try to do this maintenance in my workshop😊

[@zoubtube]

Thank you very much for the kind words. I'm Very glad to hear that you found the video helpful. Before you work on the shock, make sure to watch my next video, which should be out next week. I'm going to go into detail on how to fill the IFP chamber with air using a syringe with a shock pump. This is the only real tricky part of this job, and I want to make sure you have everything you need to be successful 👍

[@Dimiurg-]

your videos on (fox rhythm 34, rf Atlas, Fox Float DPS Performance) were very useful for me, thank you very much)))

[@zoubtube]

I'm super happy to hear the videos were helpful to you. literally just lifted my mood after this nutty day. 😊 let me know if there are any questions I can help with 👍

[@alexsinbb]

Excellent video thank you. Noticed you took to drill this time!

[@zoubtube]

yup! had my reservations on showing this process, as well as replacing the metering rod seals, since both are a relatively tricky processes and could go wrong real quick, (I make these videos for beginners and would like them to have a positive experience). In the end I figured we all have to start somewhere so any service videos I make moving forward will be complete services with caution statements. 👍

[@louisbellanca9293]

Nice work - at $200 I think FOX service is a great deal as this is very involved process and requires special tools

[@zoubtube]

I'm glad you found the video informative. For some people, it absolutely makes sense to send it in, but if you ride enough to where you need to service it once a year, the costs of doing it on your own are far less than the cost of sending it in annually, including purchasing the tools. By the second service, you pretty much break even. This is actually a relatively easy shock to service. Once you get used to it, it literally takes between 20-30 minutes to do the job, excluding cleaning the controls, which only needs to be done if they feel off. Also, you have the luxury of taking your time to make sure the job is done right. The service centers have to pump out tons of product all year round in order to be profitable. And as much as I respect the work they do, they are human, and their management pushes them to produce, As all management does. Occasionally, things go wrong. At a minimum, you should be performing the 50 hours on your own. This is super easy, and it offers the greatest return when compared to any other service. The same goes for forks. Let me know if you have any questions

[@LaurentiusTriarius]

The issue is that you can get a new 2023 DPS for 240$ CDN, I've seen the 2024 starting at 199$... This shock performs alright but I'd rather spend time servicing my DVO topaz 😂

[@resolve638]

@@LaurentiusTriarius what website is the deal?

[@bleauup]

Thx for this amazing vidéo....Just one question please....where can I found the tool to close the nitogen air can with the needle....It looks more handy than cutting the hex wrench.

[@zoubtube]

Thank for the kind words. I believe you're looking for the following. It can also be found at other sites like amazon. www.treefortbikes.com/Fox-Pellet-Retainer-Tool-Nitrogen-Fill?adpos=&scid=scplp333222447147&sc_intid=333222447147&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw26KxBhBDEiwAu6KXt25O4wIGQzzFXwbTrN2GNz4L-a5iNg2fdEw9DpBKF12VLbWrEY6hyxoCBFgQAvD_BwE

[@marcussimonsson6805]

Thank you! awesome guide. living in sweden and finding a fox service partner locally is impossible

[@zoubtube]

glad to hear you found it helpful. let me know if there are any questions

[@meyeame8956]

Awesome video. I think I'll just pay someone to do it

[@zoubtube]

Thank you very much. Nothing wrong with sending it out to be fully serviced, especially if your riding about 50 hours of so a year. I still recommend performing the 50 hour service every year though. It's cheap, it's easy, it'll extend the life of the shock (and fork) and it'll perform great!

[@jubalvw3302]

This is a very great video. I hate the needle part, wish there was a better solution to that.

[@zoubtube]

you and me both. there might be a better way but i'm unaware of it. I'm used to it now, but still always get that feeling that the seal might not have fully seated even though i know it has. If I come across a better way to remove and install the shaft seals i'll definitely make a video for people to know about it.

[@traka795]

What tool is that you use for the pressurized screw? and how many psi does it pressurize?

[@zoubtube]

@@traka795 If your asking about the pellet retainer tool (the tool used for the bleed screw that allow you to insert a needle) www.treefortbikes.com/Fox-Pellet-Retainer-Tool-Nitrogen-Fill?adpos=&scid=scplp333222447147&sc_intid=333222447147&gclid=CjwKCAjwpayjBhAnEiwA-7ena855FlEnUCnQmWWBlGCVV4fNH3Jcuc7XI819w2TO4CATDPWgSgVc5RoCqngQAvD_BwE. You can by one or make your own for a few bucks by cutting a channel in a 5/32 allen key using a Dremel or a hacksaw (is your very careful, the dremel is easier) The DPS needs 500 PSI Hope this helps

[@Jukka-PekkaEllilä]

Great video. Is it possible to remove the dials without dismantling the whole shock? I mean, can I just remove the small set screw and take the rebound and damper setting assembly out? I have a DPS nude and the remote dial is sticking.

[@zoubtube]

Thanks for the comment. The dials and came can "technically" be inserted without removing the shaft from the eyelet, but it won't go straight in. It will take some wiggling as you have to align both compression and rebound cams properly to their shafts. IF the rebound rod turns on you, then you will have to do it as seen in this video. IF you have a Nude, it will be a bit harder. I posted a NUDE service video, there are two part to the camshaft, which will make it more challenging If parts come in on time, I should be posting a video this coming Monday that will go over all this.

[@Jukka-PekkaEllilä]

​OK, thanks for answering!

[@gaspertolar7950]

hello, do you need multiple ifp depth setting tools for different shocks and brands of shocks or is there an universal one? thanks for the amazing tutorials

[@zoubtube]

Thank you for the comment, and I'm glad to hear you found the video informative. Unfortunately, there is no one IFP depth tool that will work on all brands of shocks (that I know of) due to the IFP contact points. The only "universal" tool is a caliper. Which works, but can sometimes be frustrating when setting an IFP. But you have to make sure you contact the correct spot on the IFP when setting it in place with a caliper. Hopefully this helps

[@michaeljlr8646]

if you skip the axle and dial segment and simply remove shim stack and change seals on piston and reinstall, do you need the meter to check dial function?

[@zoubtube]

Nope! The meter is used to verify if the dials are working properly prior to assembling the shock. You can test if it works with your finger, but you can't tell with a finger if the lift falls within a certain tolerance. If you're only going to work up to the piston, then you don't need the dial. I hope this helps

[@michaeljlr8646]

sure does! you are the best :) @@zoubtube

[@jimmandave]

Great video. Just completed my rebuild and the shock functionality is perfect. I notice some oil seeping from the adjustment knobs now, so I have a couple questions: 1. This seems most likely to me that I botched either the square cut o-ring in the metering rod, or the o-ring in the shaft that seals against the metering rod. Do you agree? 2. You are suppose to fill the shock damper with oil, then install the compression rod. This looks like damper oil would get into the adjustment knobs before the rod is installed. Could it be residual oil from that?

[@zoubtube]

My sincerest apologies for the late response, but I'm big time behind on messages. "This seems most likely to me that I botched either the square cut o-ring in the metering rod, or the o-ring in the shaft that seals against the metering rod. Do you agree?" If you bled it the way I did in this video, then you probably added a bit too much oil in the metering rod shaft. If this is the case, then a bit of oil will come out of the knobs, but it will stop soon after. "You are suppose to fill the shock damper with oil, then install the compression rod. This looks like damper oil would get into the adjustment knobs before the rod is installed. Could it be residual oil from that?" Yes! Technically, this added step isn't needed. But it helps with the bleed for beginners, which I try to target. It won't hurt anything, but admittedly, I should have better explained it in the video. I will be uploading a new DPS video next month that goes into all this detail. Making these videos is still a learning process for me. MANY times, my mind thinks one thing, but my mouth says another. I probably should get that checked 😉

[@dunks4212]

you are amazing. THANK YOU!!!!!!

[@zoubtube]

Thanks myman. Now if you could only convince the girlfriend 😁

[@dunks4212]

@@zoubtube haha funny. Hey GF if youre seeing this this lad is a catch!!! Follow up Q pls. I dont have a dremel but can I adapt a hollow 4mm allen bit by drilling the hole straight through it? The hollow part of the existing 4mm allen bit is only hollow for a few millimeters and is used on anti tampering bolts. But If I drill a 1mm hole through it should be the same as using the special tool.

[@zoubtube]

@@dunks4212 It actually could work, i'm just wondering if it will be difficult to drill at a steep enough angle in order to the needle tip to go through the hole in the nut without overly bending it. Do you have a hack saw? if you have a hacksaw you should be able to do the same as the dremel if you take your time

[@dunks4212]

Just finished this service following the tutorial step by step. Oil was low and seals looked like they needed changing. Thanks again 🤙

[@zoubtube]

@@dunks4212 Awesome to hear. Glad it worked for you. No go out there and reap your rewards! as always, if you have any questions let me know 👍

[@pahl99]

Hi! Will air do the work equal to nitrogen as fox recommended?

[@zoubtube]

For the vast majority of use cases, yes! Nitrogen has its advantages in very hot environments and on very long, aggressive runs. If you're riding a combination of these two, then you really only want to fill it with nitrogen. But for typical trails, average conditions, and average riders, it's not an issue. Both rockshox and fox will say so as well. Ultimately, they have to satisfy the lowest common denominator, which is the worst case scenario.

[@diegocabrera4056]

Hi! Are you planning to work with nitrogen? As it doesn’t change when temperatures changes

[@zoubtube]

I have a nitrogen station, but I don't expect people to buy one just to maintain their shocks. I'm trying to make these videos for people who would like to learn to service their bikes but might need a bit of a nudge to confidently do so. I also try and make them with tools that are easily accessible. unfortunately in some cases that's not possible, they will have to buy a special tool, but it's their choice at the point. but a nitrogen station is a lot to ask for and air will work just as fine for 99+% of people out there.👍

[@SergejGrabun]

What size (mm) crows foot is it? I want to order one or few of them but cannot find information on which size did you use in this video? I ordered air can service kit and waiting for wt 10 oil to come. Will try the small service first as I don't have the needle stuff yet, but will probably manufacture one you had done or order similar one from etsy. In Europe there are limited places where I can find the 'replacement' tools for genuine Fox ones. Thank you for all the videos you do, they are amazing. I sometimes find myself watching them even on products I dont own :D :D

[@zoubtube]

Apologies for the delayed response. I am very glad to hear that you find the videos helpful and thank you for taking the time to watch them. The crowfoot for torquing down the damper body is 19mm or 3/4 inch. These sizes are very common and aren't that expensive. I will say that I highly recommend buying a few extra needle heads if you do this job. The needles are very unpredictable, and some can break the head very easily. I also recommend buying a few extra pellets. They can be bought for $1 each. Since it's your first time, I would consider buying an extra of each. Let me know how it goes 👍

[@juliagriffiths]

Hi, thank you for this video. If ever I pluck up the courage to do this, I will be watching your video over and over. I do have a question for you though. I need to replace the blue lever / dial. I have the part but not the 1.5mm screw to attach it. Do you know the specific length part/length/size screw I will need or where I can go to find that information or even better from where I can order some? Thanks again

[@zoubtube]

Apologies for the late response. I wouldn't be intimidated by this service. After the first time, you will be surprised at how easy it really is. As for the screw, you mention. I don't have one handy at the moment to verify, but I'm pretty sure you will find one at a local hardware store. They typically sell small machine screws and will find the right size for you. You might have to cut it down to size, but that's easy enough. The next time I service one of these (probably in April), I'll look into it and post back (as long as I don't forget)

[@juliagriffiths]

No worries. I did actually find it online and all is working great.

[@r32liner]

Hi Zoub, looking for your thoughts please, once I've set my ifp and bled the damper do you think its okay to bleed tiny amounts of oil out the top grub screw to achieve full travel in the dyno/bike frame (I'm poor) then topping up the ifp air pressure as it feels like it hydro locks before hitting the bump stop oring keep in mind I'm testing the travel without the air can on?

[@zoubtube]

Apologies for the delayed response, but I'm way behind. If your shock is hydro locked, you can use the bleed screw to fix the problem. BUT, you have to be SUPER careful to do so without overshooting the IFP, because then you will have traded one problem for another. Make sure ALL dials are fully open Cycle the shock about 5 times. Then let it rise to the top. Then open the bleed screw about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn max. let some oil come out, but not too much, then close the bleed screw. Do it a little at a time. Better to be VERY patient here. Now compress the shock again and see if it goes deeper. Repeat the above until the shock bottoms out. Again, the Key here is patience. It's better to let oil out a little at a time. What you're basically doing is lifting your IFP to the proper height. If it goes beyond that height, then the only way to fix it is to open the damper body and reset the IFP. Hopefully, this helps

[@ReidarFJoensen]

Hi friend. Thank you for your very good video of service. Is it possible to send me close up pictures and the size of the Shox Rear Shock Dial Indicator? 1:12:27

[@zoubtube]

Thanks, and my Apologies for the late response. Aare you asking what dial I'm using in the video? If yes, its a Mitutoyo dial indicator model 2416a-10. below is a link. There are much more cost effective versions for this task that will be precise. Hope this helps www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-2416A-Dial-Indicator-Range/dp/B09FRBS84N/ref=asc_df_B09FRBS84N/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=632190043663&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10405223287496407294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016979&hvtargid=pla-1889137942254&psc=1&mcid=528a0f674d8a3c528b3e04244954eda4&gclid=CjwKCAiA0bWvBhBjEiwAtEsoW-GL1j0IPis_k2CNbfMEWVq1gTz5Nj3D6pG-e1c_SgXzkrB8o3pmDxoCD5UQAvD_BwE

[@DonPatr0L]

@ZoubTube - On mine the red dial for rebound is stuck. Do I need to disassemble the entire head to get to it and clean like you showed, or can I leave the shafts connected and just remove the dials?

[@zoubtube]

Sorry for the delayed response, I'm only now just catching up. So you're saying it's completely stuck. If yes, then you have to open the shock to fix it. Coincidence would have it that a buddy of mine recently handed me the same shock with the compression knob completely stuck, and it was leaking oil from the knobs. Though it might seem intimidating, this shock is actually easy to work on. After your first try, your confidence will skyrocket. The only major pain with servicing it is filling the IFP chamber with air using needles. I already recorded a detailed video on just the air fill using a syringe with a hand pump, but I haven't started editing it yet. Let me know what you decided to do or if you need some help

[@gustavoscheffel4095]

Does this video also work for the fox float dps evol?

[@zoubtube]

If its a DPS then yes. I have another video of a FOX factory Float DPS Evol. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKWtp4WCod-EiK8. One thing to note about the video, when I made the video I had decided NOT to show how to change the lifting plate shaft seals because it can be a very frustrating job the first time with potential to damage the o'ring. I didn't want people get stuck because of it. I do show how to change the seals in the newer videos though, which applies to the one in the link.

[@scottmack9066]

I also have a Fox Float Factory DPS Shock EVOL SV Remote that I want to change from 190x40 to 45. I tried to watch but video was private. Thank you so much for the very comprehensive how to. @zoubtube

[@rosescumario]

What is the name of that special tool that the nitrogen needle goes into (which you replaced with that Allen key?

[@zoubtube]

It's the FOX Pellet Retainer Tool. Hope this helps

[@PlowThePow]

Is there a safe way to dyno it without the press?

[@zoubtube]

Yup, you can do it using your hands. Though it will be harder as you have less leverage. but do it right after you fill the IFP chamber. not after installing the air can, which will make it even harder. you can also test it by installing it on the bike. in my next video I'll make sure to mention this

[@PlowThePow]

Noob here, what is the reasoning for writing down the air pressure, and rebound in the beginning?

[@zoubtube]

when fully servicing a shock or fork, we have to remove all air from the system, as well as place all the controls to the fully open position. writing down you settings helps with setting up the shock to the settings it was at when the job is done

[@williamtrudel9364]

Hi, I shipped my shock for service last year to a shop. It came back with 1 of 3 compression rebound loose (Firm setting). In other words, if I try to put the blue know on the firm setting, it doesn't stay in place. It's loose so it comes back to Mid setting just by gravity. All 2 other positions work as intended. (They "click" and stay there) What causes this problem and how can I fix it? Note : I can not ship it back to guarantee because it's too long. Thank you

[@zoubtube]

Sorry to hear your having issue. If I understand the issue correctly, it sounds to me like there isn't enough pressure on the lifting plate in order to keep the plate shut when the knob is in the firm position, so it falls back out. Most likely reasons: they didn't bleed the shock correctly; they didn't put enough air in the ifp chamber; a possible leak on the IFP air fill port pellet; a possible leak on the bleed screw. I highly doubt the issue is with the controls, though I could be wrong I would bleed the shock again. Though annoying in your case since you spent the money already, it's really not difficult to do. It involves removing the air can, removing the air from the IFP chamber, then removing the damper tube, then doing the bleed, and so on, as seen in the video. Everything needed for the job is in the video. Let me know if you will attempt the service, and I'll do what I can to help you with it. Let me know what you decide to do. 👍

[@yetijoeyetijoe]

If my fox dps elite doesn't hold more air than 140 psi, does that mean that the qring is blown? I make sure to cycle the shock 10 times every ~50psi that I add to it. It goes to 140 psi then I hear air hiss out of somewhere. I cycled the shock while letting the air out every ~50psi, as well. The rebound is in the open position.

[@zoubtube]

If you have a spray bottle, add a few drops of dish soap, then fill it with water, shake the bottle well, and spray down the shock. Then fill the shock with about 250 psi. Look for bubbles; let me know if you find any and where they are if you do. 👍

[@michaelfinger6020]

Has the Fox 10wt red been discontinued? I can't find it in stock any where? What's the best alternative to this to use?

[@zoubtube]

yup! Fox 10Wt green is the replacement. Hope this helps

[@TheSant1k]

Hi! I have a problem with my newdle adapter,it was leaking a pressure,so i taked it away and fixing it,what do you think its possible to try 2-3 times to make a 500psi to ifp? Or i need to change new rubber to the body?

[@zoubtube]

The pellet is good for one or two uses. Three times is really pushing. you might get lucky, but it could start to leaking. if you can I would change the pellet and try again. The first time using the syringe to fill the IFP is tricky. once you get the hang it gets easier. The biggest issue is applying enough pressure without breaking the syringe upon removal. As I mention in the videos, I really hope fox moves away from the pellet solution. I understanding that it's much cheaper than a valve assembly but its at the cost of the user experience

[@TheSant1k]

@@zoubtube Okay thanks,seems like its ok huh. What do you think obout of using a motul 10w fork oli in dps shocks?

[@TheSant1k]

@@zoubtube ah and in my situation "lock" position is not working, i made something wrong. It wosn't worked before service,and not working after service 😭

[@zoubtube]

​@@TheSant1k If you ride in warm temperatures you can "technically" get away with it, though the shock will most likely not react as designed. if you riding in colder temps, I wouldn't use it, and stick with the 5wt oil

[@zoubtube]

@@TheSant1k The most likely cause it the metering rod shaft is not positioned in the wrong direction. look at 1:04:22 in the video, which explains this. this is the reason I test the lifting plate height after I service the metering rod and/or control knobs. Your best best it to open the shock and make sure it's positioned in the right way for your DPS shock. keep in mind that the position is different for different dps models (ex" factory vs performance) so make sure to position it for the DPS model you have

[@mickeydarling1350]

Will 400psi work my pump don’t go any higher

[@zoubtube]

Not without affecting the shocks performance if your shock has settings that you are comfortable with based on the terrain you ride. The shock will be softer if you fill the IFP chamber to 400 PSI. you will definitely need to readjust compression and rebounds settings and possibly even tokens.

[@zachhilty6822]

After re-pressurizing the IFP chamber to 500 psi, the fully opened, half opened, and locked out controls function perfectly but the rebound does not. The shock extends just as fast whether the rebound is fully open or fully closed. Any thoughts on where I went wrong? I'm thinking it might be something wrong with the head assembly step, even though I made sure the ball was oriented towards the front and the dials were oriented the same way as well.

[@zoubtube]

If the rebound is always full open and your compression is working find after a full service, then I'm pretty sure the rebound rod isn't sitting on the cam. It mostly likely slipped to the side when installing the eyelet and then spun to the back. You're going to have to open the system to check. If this was your first time, trust me when I say your second is going to be WAY easier and quicker. And then it gets ever easier from there. You got this myman. 🦾Let me know how it goes.

[@zachhilty6822]

@@zoubtube Thank you! I opened it up again and this was the issue. One last question... after getting to 500 psi on the IFP refill and pulling out the needle, I have had the screw too loose and all the air comes rushing out of the IFP chamber during that final step. I don't realize this happened until testing the shock and finding it does not return to extended position after squishing it down (also the open/closed/climb lever is loose and just spins). After doing this do I need to go back in and reset the IFP depth each time or am I good to just retry the needle refill until I get it right? Thanks for the help.

[@zoubtube]

@@zachhilty6822 Yes! I would do this. It's very easy to do, and you will be sure it's correctly set. Also, the first time is always the most intimidating, but trust me when I say that after you're done and all is well, you will have the confidence to do it whenever you want. You got this man 💪👍

[@xreffer8498]

So on mine my blue compression adjuster is fee spinning, and when I compress the shock, it makes a noise and stops moving halfway through. What parts of the shock will I have to service? Any advice?

[@zoubtube]

Just to verify, you have a DPS, not a NUDE DPS (Nude PDS, this can be caused by the pin that holds the lifting plate in place over the piston ports falling out). Assuming it's a regular DPS, Let's say the knob is in the lockout position, and you compress the shock, does the shock lock out at all? If not, then the lifting plate isn't retracting. The lifting plate retracts based on pressure in the system caused by pressure in the IFP chamber. In the full open position, the cam connects to the compression knob, literally forcing the lifting plate to stay open. Assuming there is nothing actually wrong with the compression knob, axle or cam, Then it's most likely a loss of IFP pressure (probably due to the IFP seal) or the o'ring in the metering rod jumping off its seat causing too much friction for the lifting plate to full retract. Both would prevent the lift plate rod from contacting the compression knob cam, which in turn would allow the compression knob to spin when the shock isn't compressed, but when you compress the shock, then there is enough pressure for the lifting plate to lift and contact the cam. You can try to add air into the IFP chamber first to see if it solves the issues, but chances are you're going to need to open the whole shock to a point of removing the metering rod shaft from the shock head to be sure. Basically a full rebuild at that point

[@xreffer8498]

Ok thanks

[@Vodorok]

Hi, Do you remember if the little bore where the small spring is located with a bearing ball is threaded? I am planning to convert my Float DPS to remote but I find contradicting information on whether I need to replace the whole top end or not. (edited typo fixes)

[@zoubtube]

what year and which exact model DPS are you looking to do this on? this can be significant task, or require a new eyelet (what I call a shock head)

[@Vodorok]

@@zoubtube It is a 2021 model.

[@Vodorok]

@@zoubtube This is the full description of what the 4 digit code gives to me: 2021, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, 3pos-Adj, Evol SV, Cube, AMS 100, 6.5, 1.5, 0.2 Spacer, LCL, LRM, CMF, Orange Logo

[@zoubtube]

@@Vodorok unless someone else knows otherwise, I'm pretty confident your going to need a new eyelet for that shock. I believe you might need a new valve assembly as well. My guess is it will most likely cost less overall to sell the shock you have and buy a used version with a remote.

[@jagoss45]

Do you really need to do the damper oil change every 50 hrs? Seems kinda extreme.

[@zoubtube]

Nope! Not at all, and I don't believe I mentioned this in the video. The air can should be serviced every 50 hours or so. imo, the most important service for shocks, forks and droppers is the 50 hour. They are relatively quick, easy, and provide the most return for the effort while extending the life of the product. 👍

[@KillaForceCrew]

do i need to disassemble all stuff just for only servicing the rebound and lockout needle?

[@zoubtube]

Unfortunately yes. The lifting plate can be tested with only removing the damper body and using a dial, as can be seen at 1:12:12 mark in this video. But you can't do the same with the rebound. Both compression rod and rebound rod are held by tight seals in their respective shafts, as can be seen at the 41:30 mark. Believe it or not, those seals are pretty much the only thing touching both compression rod and rebound shaft. Both back up to cams on their respective control knobs, and that's it. You had mentioned that your rebound feels stuck and that there is play on the dial. It is VERY possible that the seal in the main shaft (the one that holds the rebound rod) is the culprit. In the past, those seals were known to literally deteriorate over time. Newer DPS's not so much, but they still wear, especially if the shock hasn't been serviced for a while. The job seems intimidating the first time. But in reality, it's not all that difficult. I'm trying to help people get over that initial hump with these videos. BUT, there are 3 parts of the service that I would consider "sensitive" your first time: 1 - Changing the shaft seals. Look at all my dps videos a few times until you visually see the steps in your mind. Once it clicks, I'm positive you will do this with minimal issue. 2 - The bleed. Inline are tricky because you basically are bleeding them blind. Again, watch the videos, until the process sticks in your head. Make sure to have the 19mm wrench, the 19mm crowfoot on a torque wrench, the magnet with bearing and the screw and the 5/64 Allen, next to each, other in that order, in front of you, ready to go. The smoother the processes, the more successful the bleed 3: filling the IFP with air (the trickiest part) The trick here is to make sure to screw in the bleed screw until it bottoms out tight, then back off the screw 1/4 turn, then insert the needle. If the needle doesn't go in, back off the screw 1 mm at a time until the needle goes in. When the needle goes in, then tighten the screw about 1/8 of a turn. Fill the IFP chamber to 500psi, when done, POP out the needle quick. Give it a quick hard tug "Straight out", then lock down the screw. TIP: Make sure to have extra needles, They do break. And as always, be VERY careful handling the syringe Hopefully this helps, and let me know if you have any questions.

[@KillaForceCrew]

@@zoubtube thanks a lot for the info..my shock is remote lockout and 2pos only do i need to follow that dial gauge procedure?

[@zoubtube]

@@KillaForceCrew The dial procedure is done to make sure the the lifting plate rod is properly seating on the compression dial cam. is it necessary,,, Not really. You can test this by hand in your case prior to closing the shock.

[@KillaForceCrew]

@@zoubtube okay thanks..and now i just need to slowly buy everything to this job.hopefully it goes well fingers crossed..

[@zoubtube]

@@KillaForceCrew honestly, as I mention in some of my videos', If you don't plan to at least annually service your shock I would send it in to fox., The first service is going to be the most expensive as you have to buy the seals, oil and tools. it'll cost you just about the same as it would be to send it in. only when you start regularly serving it will it pay off over time. Also, the first time will be the most intimidating. You can't break it, but if one of the 3 parts I had mentioned earlier doesn't go as planned it can get frustrating until you figure it out. once you figure it out you will remember it forever. but you can avoid all this by sending it in. not sure where you live, but I would do it for you, no charge of course (outside of you buying the seal and oil). haven't done a video on a DPS with remote yet, only a nude with remote so far.

[@ЕвгенийКраснодар-й9е]

Слишком много спец инструмента. Рок шок попроще обслуживание

[@zoubtube]

Согласованный. Rock Shock уделяет больше внимания упрощению обслуживания при разработке амортизатора

[@tomekpap]

It's ridiculous this procedure is so complicated and requires special tools which an average person does not have handy.

[@zoubtube]

Don't be intimidated by it myman. I am sure you can do this job. The first time is always the most unnerving, but once you're done, your confidence will skyrocket. The tools really aren't all that bad. The 3-nipple tool and the thin-walled 5.8 socket are really the only true custom tools. The worst part is the needle air fill. I posted a detailed video not long ago that goes into this. I recommend you watch it before servicing the shock. The reward is well worth it. At a minimum, do the 50-hour service. It's easy and offer the greatest return imo. you can do it! 👍

[@joshzotz7445]

💉 ☝️ 😱

[@zoubtube]

please tell me you didn't stab yourself with the needle 🙏

[@iamcyberpunk68]

You say ok way to much

[@zoubtube]

Considering all the other words I over used in my older videos, I'm going to take over using just the word OK as a compliment! 😉 Slowly but surely progress is being made! 👍

[@gweflj]

Seems great on the dyno but I’m surprised you didn’t attach a syringe to the bleed port and cycle the shock. I wouldn’t be surprised if there wasn’t a small amount of air around the piston or under the seal head that wouldn’t be obvious on the dyno.

[@zoubtube]

So your saying there is a syringe that screws into the bleed port of this shock? send me a link if you can please. typically, if I hear or feel an anomaly I open the bleed port to see if trapped air escapes. if not and it persists I open the shock and bleed it over again. As for this shock, My buddy says it been running great, and I'm super proud of him for doing his first 50 hour service on it, which means I didn't have to do it for him! 👍 Finally this channel is paying off 😁

[@gweflj]

@@zoubtube I believe it's the same thread size pitch as a SRAM brake syringe.