Testing (almost) Every Filament So You Don't Have To!

[@jaykimmerman8608]

Alternate video title: Testing filament strength + my own

[@FranklyBuilt]

Basically haha

[@oKMz]

Brutal

[@brappineau4161]

Actually refreshing to have "professional" / Technical take as opposed to entertaining and fun. I'd say this was a healthy balance, as it is a technical hobby, and some people are just too focused on clowning around.

[@WRZ_450]

Some advice for you if you do end up going with the glass fiber option. I have printed over 20 spools worth of Bambu's ABS-GF. It is, hands down, my favorite filament as far as aesthetics go, so I have used it for a lot of figurines and collectibles that I keep on display in my office. One of the first models I printed in ABS-GF needed a bit of sanding, which I just did at my desk like I always do. However, during the sanding process I ended up getting the ABS-GF equivalent of a sliver in my thumb. The piece came right out, but I'm pretty sure some really small pieces of glass got left behind because my thumb was ever so slightly swollen and tender for the better part of a month after that. The other issue I had was that even after using a vacuum to try and get all the remnants off my desk, I ended up having to throw out my whole desk pad because I kept getting little pieces of it in my arms during work. Moral of the story, if you're going to sand anything with glass fiber, I strongly recommend doing it as if you were a professional painter about to paint a car. Full on paint booth and head to toe coverage.

[@sp33d4l0l]

Same with anything involving carbon fiber, ideally you shouldn't even let the bare parts touch your body as they'll shed little fibers that embed themselves in your skin. Worse, these little fibers will embed themselves in your lungs if inhaled, and they'll stay there forever. Gloves and a mask are the absolute bare minimum if you work a lot with CF/GF filaments.

[@somedud1140]

Personally, in my experience glass fill isn't justified, it adds price and processing problems, but in return you don't get that much stiffness. Oftentimes you'll sacrifice layer adhesion too! Carbon fiber fill has the same problems as glass fill and it costs more, however in return you will get different, matt textured finish and more significant stiffness increase. The other benefit is, with warping filaments like ABS or Nylon, carbonfill will almost nullify the warping. I also found that carbon is a good heat conductor, making it easier to print with little to no cooling, as the excess heat is sucked by the rest of the part. As for post process, I would suggest leave it out or just paint it with the mattest black or other dark color you can find to cover those fibers and not reveal too much layer details. Just know, once you touch it with sandpaper, it will look way worse until you sand it smooth. Maybe sand some critical points, but overall, you should be printing only functional parts with it

[@codyhalley]

You essentially did layer adhesion tests for all the materials which is why all the carbon fiber filaments were terrible. It's only the plastic in those filaments that sticks to itself along the layer lines. You may try a really hard TPU like 98a or 64d+ since TPU has pretty good layer adhesion. Plus, it can take an absolute beating

[@LordNerfherder]

TPU is incredibly durable for cosplay, and easily covered in great metal coats like a solid alumaluster and lukas hard gloss for a flexible metallic that bends and takes extreme duress before losing its luster. Incredible for cosplay.

[@zeke7515]

100% I get and regularly print with 72D using Bambu's TPU for AMS preset and it comes out great. Unless I need the stiffness, it's my go to filament now. $30/kg on amazon.

[@TheBigBMoss]

Looking at your results so far (I am at 22:26 rn) I would have to say that all the filaments with CF have lower results than expected due to the method of how they add the CF. Bamboo, like many others use bits of CF mixed in with the material. This can increase the strength a bit, but usually makes it more brittle because the two materials have different rates that they can deform under stress, leading to more bittle material. Even if you get a material that better matches the CF bits, it still underperforms because CF exhibits higher strength with long strands of CF. This is because CF displaces the force across its whole atomic structure. This is why printers like the Markforged Onyx, result in a much better print. It not only prints the base material, but lays a full, continuous strand of CF between each layer.

[@c.kelley3309]

I just got into the 3D printing hobby about four months ago and I really wish I had had the money to buy a Bambu Lab printer at this point. Also I wanted to say thank you for all the years of videos, they have been a tremendous help showing me how to dial in things.

[@KorpseDusTII]

Frank, as im ready to take my cosplay to the next level, you helped me pick a starter 3d printer (A1, its still on its way) this video is extremely helpful with what to filament to use! TYSM my man!!

[@Kevin-jb2pv]

Oh no! You might want to read up on the shenanigans Bambulab has been pulling in the last few days and reconsider buying from them :c

[@loko5626]

Hell Yeah! I will be following your instructions and do everything you do when you rebuild your suit. Please give enough details and keep up the great work. Love all your videos, you are the reason why i bought my printer and got into this. Thank you.

[@rukaerika]

The Filled filaments have less plastic adhesion between layers so they are more rigid and brittle which makes sense. Thanks for the cool information and testing it out!!

[@stealtheo]

Currently, I am utilizing a Bamboo X1 carbon equipped with two AMS units. While I generally find my device satisfactory, I am concerned about the recent firmware update that imposes restrictions on Orca Slicer and PrusaSlicer software, preventing users and those with print farms from accessing these features. I received the beta version of the update last night, which unfortunately disables all these functionalities. Furthermore, this restriction will soon extend to the Panda touch feature for users with the P1S Series printers. I am perplexed by Bambu Labs’ decision to implement this restriction, as it has the potential to alienate a substantial portion of their customer base.

[@FranklyBuilt]

Yeah it was a weird choice

[@Kosm0Doc]

i got my p1s on black friday and now might be regretting it for now ive put it into lan mode and wont be updating it which tbh worried about down the line with problems that will rise up but i wont use a printer that is locking me in with any chance of choosing what slicer i use or what 3rd party stuff i add to it

[@DVCasey0311]

dont expect this dude to take a stand against bambu's choice. It would hurt his income from bambu.

[@Dreamer66617]

its hitting back at the USA for tik tok. tech war now

[@MattHealey.]

wouldn't say substantial. bet the vast majority wont care as they will use studio anyway and are into printing stuff as a hobby rather stay the printer

[@WRZ_450]

Also, one option to consider is instead of sanding down the layer lines to get something smooth, take a look "Smooth-On XTC-3D" coatings. It's specifically meant for 3D prints. It effectively an epoxy, but it doesn't quite cure to same level of hardness as epoxy does. So you end up with a very workable surface for sanding and painting.

[@wolflamac]

Youre awesome, Frank! Because of you my journey has been great! Leaned so much, created even more. Even got my lab started and business going. Thank you for being you, bro

[@TheAaronPerry]

As always, great vid. Post processing video would slam!!! Looking forward to seeing how these all take sand, paint, etc.

[@Raycinjaycin]

I would think durability would be more important than strength? Heat resistance too. You're not wearing them into battle or taking punches but you will be exposing them to heat and wear and tear. The 2A community has a lot more info on stress related failures. Pla+ seems to be the filament of choice. The orientation matters in those prints.

[@Flaretalksgames]

getting my first printer today and your videos are teaching me so much thx man

[@ianr1863]

very interested in the post processing. My boba fett costume was done in ABS as I wanted the acetone weld the split parts together and heard the sanding was superior to PLA as well (in addition to ABS's other plastic properties vs PLA. )

[@paulgattini5075]

Interesting video, maybe not the most sceintific, but it answers the question you needed it too. As a newbie to 3d printing, start out trying to learn both 3d print and CAD, which after a couple of weeks I dropped CAD and now just trying too learn all I can about 3d and my machine. printing loads of flexi and models to see how the printer and software work. As the PLA Silk is really cool alot of the models done with the silk. Also did the 3d model that was on the R3D stand (free on makerworld) at formnext in Frankfurt. some of the plates I did with the silk (bad idea) you blow on them and its really broke again. So reprinted in PLA basic and its like night and day. The kids that I've give the flexis will be getting remakes using PLA basic. Also learn that TPU that is for the AMS isn't as flexible as the TPU 95A (should of spent the extra money for the TPU 95a and run it from back of the P1S instead of the ams unit.) live and learn can't wait to see what your new series of videos on the upgraded ironman suit

[@RamDragon32]

I like following the technical printing channels, sure, but I print cosplay and props. This was absolutely the most useful test I've seen. I like PLA for teh post processing but I've been printign everythgn in PETG for the last few months and I love it, now I know why. Thanks for this vid!

[@JohnRoachSanderson]

Testing the PAHT-CF turned Frank into Salt Bae for a hot second there 😂

[@ChristopherBoyd-q9z]

Thanks for this! So much info and you present it clearly!

[@coledavidson5630]

8:34 CF fill actually reduces layer adhesion, so you should tend to get parts that are weaker vertically with CF filaments as opposed to the non-fiber-filled version of the same filament. Without a hot (around 60C) chamber for the higher-temp filaments like ABS, ASA, nylon, etc, this will be exacerbated even more, so it shouldn't be too surprising if the ASA-CF is actually weaker vertically than the PLA.

[@thecboxhero8475]

Which is odd because bambu claims the layer adhesion for asa-cf is nearly double normal asa (although still under PLA)

[@coledavidson5630]

@thecboxhero8475 yeah that is weird, I definitely wouldn't expect that to be the case

[@wl7291]

At minimum 45C chamber.

[@coledavidson5630]

@wl7291 Good point. In my experience, 45°C gives me great prints for ABS (60°C honestly might be overkill for it) and pretty bad warping and layer adhesion for nylon. But that's all I can say from experience, bc my current setup can't reach 60, and I haven't tried ASA.

[@thecboxhero8475]

@@coledavidson5630 My chamber goes to 65c and I'm going to be using polymaker asa for the first time in a couple hours. I'll report back 👍

[@RavinSaga]

So... PCTG is PETG with some additives that make it stronger, more chemical resistant, and better heat handling. It's basically PETG on steriods. Bambu doesn't offer it. I get it from 3D Fuel. I'm using it to print a Space Marine full suit from Warhammer 40k.

[@Darryl_P_]

Just a point about the PA6. I’ve found that all of my nylon prints become much more durable after reabsorbing moisture. The freshly printed parts are very brittle. I even soaked a nylon print it hot water for 6 hours and was pleasantly surprised by the results

[@FranklyBuilt]

Oooooo this is good information

[@somedud1140]

They also lose a LOT of stiffness and swell a little as it reabsorbs the moisture. It feels like entirely different material. In room temperature it takes up to 2-3 weeks. Manufacturers also suggest annealing right after the print, I'm not sure how much it helps. I guess hot water solves both problems, but here's a slight warning, boiling hot water may do it too fast.

[@KonkachiHorocroft]

this is the most interesting thing i've ever watched about filament and it's just a man in his office breaking 3d prints and testing filament.. yeah i absolutely love this hobby this is just incredible

[@FranklyBuilt]

Hahaha i love this comment. Thanks for the reassurance that me being goofy but (somewhat) methodical paid off

[@KonkachiHorocroft]

@@FranklyBuilt No problem

[@Audhd3d]

It’s so nice to see actual stress tests on these to see the points of failure thank you I learned a lot sir

[@reprinted3D]

Frank, a question for you: Did you dry all the filaments to a consistent humidity before printing with them? The relative humidity can contribute to tensile strength as well as the finish. Also, what about the weight:strength ratio? If you're making a suit out of these, i imagine the weight would be a more important consideration than the strength of the parts when they're not likely to be under the kinds of tensile forces you put them in in the video?

[@Beakerzor]

the Biqu Frostbite and the Biqu Glacier are NO JOKE amazing cold plates. Highly recommend.

[@DH-bw2rx]

So how far are you going to go on your new suit? Updated electronics, maybe some servo stuff besides just the faceplate? If I could make a suggestion, I’d 2K clear the suit the use PPF on all or almost the whole thing. That should keep the scuffs and scratches to a minimum when you’re wearing and transporting. Looking forward to seeing your progress. 👍😎

[@NOYFB982]

All the functional parts people say to print at 45 degrees, because of layer line issues. While it appears obvious, they really are the strongest part.

[@kellyjean4981]

Greatly appreciated Frank. You deserve the sponsorships, you work hard and put out great content.

[@geagle666]

I liked the whole trail and error bits, they were fun. Good video man.

[@EnzoLongoni-g6u]

hay frank i love this vid i hope you do more like this instead of really rushed builds I love u keep it up ( you should do star wars too )

[@Deter3DnD]

I think the right answer may be a mix of the different filaments for different parts. You have the experience to know which pieces are going to be harder to finish because of their shape, which ones are the most visible and need to look the absolute best, and which ones are most likely to take a beating of wear and tear from regular use. For example, the PAHT might be good to use for some less visible structural pieces in key areas since it's so flexible. Also, why didn't you test any TPUs?

[@tewkaeshyuan7873]

Really cool experiment! Before this I was wondering which material is suitable to use in Malaysia, unluckily PLA isn't a good choice for hot weathers. Now I have more pointers to the materials! Thank you!

[@mikejones-vd3fg]

Interesting results, yeah i heard the CF laced stuff is weaker along the layer lines then without because the carbon particles allow less fusing of the plastic between the layers, makes sense and ths confirms it. However you get a stiffer piece with less give in compression, things that take weight and you don't want to deform the CF laced stuff becomes better. I also experience weak layer adhesion with ABS, but once you ramp it up to higher temps that stuff fuses together and i had trouble ripping layers apart.

[@p0wertiger]

There is one more question - do you want to put anything that's glass-fiber filled anywhere near your body? When it's stable, maybe not so much but when it cracks, you're inhaling all the loose fiber. Not even mentioning sanding glass filled filaments, oh boy...

[@jamesvandromiv8406]

Few note, one early on PAHT-CF love how you haven't used and in experiment it failed but then you discovered the flex property on it. Definitely highlights how there are qualities that one material may have better then other but you don't really see until you have it.

[@FranklyBuilt]

Yeah I was shocked by that. That’s why I left most of that part in.

[@jacobcastillo5688]

0:01 Destroying Ironman’s helmet would be a pretty crazy opening scene to a marvel movie

[@grimmsobek2057]

This video is Fantastic I always used pla because I did not know about the strength of other materials but now thanks to you frank I do now have new options thank you has always and keep being Fantastic

[@HLG96]

This was a very fun video and confirmed what I expected. Most of the "engineering" filaments are useful for functional parts, but don't hold up all that well for complex designs. While the PA6-GF gave astounding results, the 3x price over PETG gives a clear winner to me. Can't wait for part 2 of tackling the post processing phase! Very interested to see how the glass or carbon particles change the process.

[@PKIndustry01]

Great video, for cosplay is very importan which material you choose, should be easy to print is PLA a option, a better heat resistance PETG or ABS. There is a huge variation of materials with pro and cons and I want to say thank you that you show how this material are handel different stage of stress. This is for cosplay beginner who just startet a huge help, and for a KZbinr beginner like me too, where I start to show people my cosplay stuff.👍 Thanks for the time and work you put in for this video, to make your way to cosplay easier.😁

[@ManuelWilliamson-do8ys]

Hey Frank! Thanks for testing all of those filaments. How much thought have you put into how you're going to join or fuse pieces together. I've transitioned to using ABS due to the ease and strength of acetone welding.

[@curlyporter6027]

Excellent video, especially for a beginner like me. What would be helpful would be to know which filament needs to have an enclosure. I only have a Bambu A1 and not sure which filaments I am able to use without the enclosure of a P1S/X1

[@Adurna.]

Hi Frank that was a very informative video i really enjoyed it. It shows more cosplay related numbers than all the other test’s. And i wanted to ask which ironman helmet you would recommend as a good one. My last one had completely wrong dimension for motorization. Thanks for everything im a huge fan❤❤❤

[@deadlyapollo]

Kingroon pla+ has been my go-to for cosplay. Strong and it can handle NORMAL hot days of 100°+ without warping.

[@Impuritan1]

Do you use any of Kingroon’s printers?

[@deadlyapollo]

@Impuritan1 no. Elegoo and Bambu.

[@3wordcuber369]

I had a question for you. I was just watching some of your older videos about the mk85 and heard you talking about starting to build a new mk85 suit with an all new series and I wanted to know if that is still something you are planing on doing or not. I think it would be really cool to see a new series and really helpful for me too because I am currently in the process of printing a mk3 suit for my self. So that was it, also this video was really helpful for my future prints as well, thank you.

[@cris71]

One is empty and the other one is 100% infill...😂

[@Brandon-hd9wm]

Did you do 4 walls for the face mask? Also I have started my journey in cosplay! Super excited although I’m Not starting with Ironman, I am making buzz lightyear using pet-g. I Have been looking for stickers and custom made stickers/ways to get the custom logos on, not sure how. Haven’t seen anything online or Reddit. Seems like just to buy a sticker making machine. I don’t have that kind of money. Any suggestions. I was thinking of going to red bubble and commissioning someone for custom made stickers. I also was thinking of making a KZbin channel about this. I know a lot of stuff, but I’m super excited and wanted to meet your 2 cents on all of this.

[@MattHealey.]

great test. living in the UK with our weather being pretty mild PLA is mazing bullet proof and we'll never get to its thermal issue cos it ever gets that warm here lol

[@IceSki117]

I wonder how different the ABS and ASA strength tests would be if the prints were smoothed with a slurry. I'm not surprised that the GF and CF materials are weaker. Those fillings reduce layer adhesion, but make up for that is the strength of larger layers.

[@theoneandonlytony]

awesome testing just curious what do you do with all the scrap prints?

[@KyleJobs-y1y]

Really liked the video. I really thought the carbon fiber infused filaments would have performed better. I’m also going to go out on a limb and say Walsh and vek are working on files for your new mk 85 from the reels I saw lol. Keep rockin!

[@BioshadowX]

Post processing the Glass Fill sounds like aa nightmare and really scary for the lunges and skin, even with a mask/respirator and sleeves

[@DESX312]

These are mostly layer adhesion tests. No surprise PPA-CF wasnt that high given this fact. Per mytechfun's testing--tensile strength for PPA-CF is like 5x higher than for layer adhesion. Thats also given the fact that he almost certainly did cooling wrong as Clough discovered an incorrect setting in the PPA-CF preset that his bambu lab contact told him was incorrect. After that there was a large jump in strength.

[@Kdude216]

Great video as always! Love science experiments. I’m curious to know your thoughts on Bambi’s recent and pending firmware changes that everyone else is talking on as of today

[@FranklyBuilt]

Honestly? Printers still work fine with Bambu Software. I stopped using orca slicer a while ago

[@markm9169]

Fun video, Frank, but leave the filament testing to CNC Kitchen! I did enjoy the video, but why would you make an entire cosplay suit with $120 per spool filament? If you really want to "engineer" a cosplay suit I would expect that you would want lightweight material for the shell pieces (like PETG or ABS), flexible material for the joints (like TPU or PP), and strong material for the structure (like ABS, PC, or PPS)...a video on how and where you would use different types of materials in your cosplay suit.

[@FranklyBuilt]

I wanted to see what was stronger than PETG and ABS and I found it. As for other videos, if every video creator didn’t make a new video because someone else already did it would be pretty boring. I’m not making a normal cosplay suit next, I’m making the absolute best iron man suit I can. So experimenting with the strongest materials I can is a must. Obviously the joints won’t be PA6 or PPA. I think that goes without saying.

[@chrisbruce9497]

Great video! It is interesting to see how flexibility plays into durability and usability. Tensile and impact testing don’t take this into account, but your test is a great real world example. Thank you!

[@Beakerzor]

thank you for doing the science! Science is always under appreciated

[@brandonparraakg948]

I would love a video not about strength but ease on post processing. I've heard a lot that ABS is way easier to sand than PLA or PETg, but I just have an open frame and cannot test it by myself

[@primus1873]

Great video as always frank. But l have a question as you are using Bambu to do all these tests, did you use orca slicer and if so what do think about what Bambu are planning with their latest update.

[@mdp1027]

Anytime I hear more expensive more better I think Donut videos. Excellent video as always. Thanks for the information

[@hex1795]

I have never seen triceps like that, you got triceps on your triceps bro

[@illegalotter]

Great video Frank. Can't wait to see the new suit. Maybe a dumb question, but is there any difference in weight between the materials? For example, with filaments having glass or carbon fiber in them would that make them heavier and/or lighter? Would that be a factor in deciding what to use vs. just durability?

[@Senbonzakura776]

Awesome vid. I'm always wondering about what is best to print in when I'm popping out helmets or other props, though I normally go with PETG, or PLA PRO/PLUS. I've thought about CF for a new helmet but still not sure.

[@dustitoffdragon7012]

Thanks man, useful vid that will help me pick out a filament. Im kind of curoius when you were going to break down the eye of agomoto?

[@DelcoRanz93]

Yeah, I've tried using Matte PLA for my Star Trek: Deep Space Nine Type 3 Phaser Rifle prop replica print and I had nothing but problems with that filament, between exterior layer de-laminations and most recently it broke between the layers, so I need to reprint the parts I made with the Matte PLA with Standard PLA. Thankfully I'm only ever gonna use it at LOCAL comic cons, so I don't need to worry about it being stored in hot environments for an extended period. If I do plan on traveling for cons, I'd likely use something like the PETG-HF.

[@NickCollura]

with the super weak layer adhesion, im wondering if you just used the stock profiles, or actually turned the fans OFF or very low for most all of these. since you shifted to only breaking the vertical parts, the fan has a tremendous effect on layer adhesion.

[@grimmsobek2057]

Or before I forget the anime solo levelling is a good one frank

[@bil666]

that flexible filament (I think PAHT-CF), I'm curious to know how well a paint job holds up under stress.

[@thirdeyenz]

12:01 "Sue me!" Bambu Labs probably will based on their latest actions.

[@mihais_makerspace]

I haven’t attempted to sand it, but in previous tests ABS-GF filament from Siraya Tech was incredibly strong. PC is also great, but I’ve strictly used it for engineering applications, so I cannot attest to its sanding properties.

[@GMichaelBridge]

if you've got a prusa XL (or other tool changer), PETG w/ PLA supports is fantastic since they don't stick together once they cool down.

[@TheNewBloodDan]

I'm a PETG and TPU only guy. Very versatile for functional / cosmetic prints!

[@Jaguar-Panther]

You: Testing (almost) Every Filament So You Don't Have To! Also you: I don't want to do it cause it takes too long. Also also you: I'm gonna test my strength instead of the filament's.

[@Jaguar-Panther]

Also also also you: Lets not test the strong orientation.

[@jimhinkle7245]

Thanks Frank. I was curious about this subject. I appreciate your time.

[@thni1703]

Did I miss the PC? Prusa PC Blend is the strongest material I have encountered. I have checked, Bambu has PC.

[@crispy_338]

In your opinion is infill a requirement for prints? I know it doesn’t affect strength too much, but does 0% infill affect print quality at all?

[@FranklyBuilt]

Usually no

[@QBziZ]

If I need an actual strong part I use Formfutura Easyfil PLA. That stuff is crazy strong!

[@101Games_One_O_One]

Hey man im looking for fast color changing rainbow filament, any tips on them?

[@ChristopherBull]

Good use of the Safety Squints 😝

[@jamesvandromiv8406]

As for the faceplate on PAHT-CF that texture was definitely noticeable. Could see that being a bad thing when you want a smooth finish. But, could be great if you did a daredevil helm or maybe might look good in a wolverine cowl (not the wing part). That nature texture adding. Cost is up there though.

[@MythicalBuilds]

i've been contemplating swapping over to PETG HF from the PLA+ for my props and armor stuff, and just leave the PLA for the basic in home nik naks or simple little things that won't see sun and what not

[@critter42]

"maybe I printed too much stuff" said no 3D printing hobbyist ever...

[@TheL4ND0]

love your vids man, thanks

[@scottletendre7527]

you should try out the PETG Pro from elegoo. It prints like the high flow but supposedly has more strength

[@uberjedisniper]

I dropped a mando helmet from the table and it cracked. Bambu Lab PETG-HF. I currently print them with 3 layers in the walls. Would it be worth it to up it to 4 or 5?

[@Kevin-jb2pv]

I didnt catch whether you have a heated chamber or at least enclosed printer or not, but ASA can give you much better later adhesion the more you heat (or at least heat soak) your chamber. The fact that it broke so easily for you kinda tells me you might have had an unideal setup for printing that material.

[@AveryTheShrimp]

Do you not worry about the carbon fibers escaping the prints and breathing it in? Especially handling parts with no paint and breaking them

[@robertmartinu8803]

For Nylon based filament: make sure to test painting, PA normally gets dyed because getting paint to stick is not the best experience.

[@Shaggywasntme27]

you should try different temps too for layer adhesion

[@Starwarsfan8517]

Can i print most of this stuff with a basic ender 3 and CR touch?

[@JaXxX410]

"Maybe I printed too much stuff"....dont tell the wives

[@John-f4e2j]

Wonderful! I love seeing the filament comparison videos. Why not use some test machines to make the tests look more accurate? Bambu's 3D printer is great (except for certain updates done recently), but its filament is honestly not my favorite. Next video: Test other filaments with Bambu... LOL

[@Edramon53]

Looking forward to the post processing tests. How strong and flexible the material is doesn't matter if it drinks paint or releases harmful particles.

[@versus023]

What build plate you used for asa ? I have such difficulty to print asa on pei textured plate. I had to buy vision miner adhesive

[@FranklyBuilt]

I used a tacky cool plate

[@Zoehmancer]

Have you by chance seen the videos by Nathan Builds Robots on the possible dangers of fiber reinforced filaments?

[@CoreyEvans-ec4pi]

not gonna lie frank i dont think i got the gun strength to hulk smash an iron man faceplate like that... 😂

[@KaleFloyd]

I have a problem with a print, My Bambu Studio won't let me make supports with one layer in between the base plate. I looked up how to fix it, but I couldn't find anything that helped. Can you please help me?

[@uberjedisniper]

I would love to see some drop tests.

[@Redhotandblue89]

Yeah, too bad Bambu fulfillment is still delayed by fairly long time, and their prices went up on refills for PLA Basic for bulk. I've been getting a lot of moisture with their filaments, almost double that of eSun and Elegoo. Then there's the wonderful and unresolved tape issue of jamming up the AMS. And, if I'm going to nitpick, I might as well point out that they haven't been the most neatly wound.