Front wheel bearing hub replacement, Volvo 850, S70, V70 - VOTD

Wheel bearing replacement: 2 to 4 hours. ($100 / $300 / $430
Over the past 5,000 miles or so I have heard my front right wheel bearing making a little noise. It hasn't gotten much worse but it's best to replace them before they come apart or tear something else up. I have a 1995 Volvo 850.
Proper torque values are:
Wheel bearing bolts, 33 ft/lbs, then another 60 degrees.
Brake caliper mounting bolts, 74 ft/lbs.
Control arm bolts, ball join nut 13 ft/lbs. (plus 120 degrees), subframe bolts 48 ft/lbs. (plus 120 degrees),
Wheel lug nuts, 80 ft/lbs.
CV Axle bolt, 89 ft/lbs, then another 60 degrees (36mm or 32mm).
I used a OEM Volvo bearing (so I was told) which I purchased from eBay. I have read that a company named FAG makes bearings for Volvo. They also make the bearings for Timken. Anywho, I would like to think I have a bearing that will last another 227,800+ miles, that's why I went with Volvo. Unfortunately I have read that someone had an OEM bearing go out on them in less than 15,000 miles. We'll see (I plan on driving this car for some time).
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[@sully61]

Thank you so much, Robert. I bought a Volvo C70 1999 convert. I had no idea what was in store. I have always been a DIY'er but no longer have the garage or tools to do too much. The dealer here in Quebec charges 149.99 per hour and I just can't afford to pay this when I need something done. Your video's have helped make doing it myself a breeze. Now if the parts prices can only drop a bit, life would be great. Thanx again!!

[@RobertDIY]

You are very welcome

[@SixteenChickens]

Robert, you saved me a $300 repair. I bought a bearing online for $35 an replaced it today in 2 hours, while watching your video about 20 times. I wrote down your tools list ahead of time and bought almost everything I needed at pawn shops for less than $20 total. Most pawn shops will bargain on tool prices and you can pick up good ones for pennies on the dollar. My caliper bolts were Torx47 (I have an S70) and so I got those at Harbor Freight. Thanks again!

[@RobertDIY]

+SixteenChickens cool tool tip. Thanks for sharing.

[@matthewdentist]

I just did the front brakes on my fairly-recently acquired '98 V70. While the caliper on the driver's side needed a T47, the passenger side required a 1/4" hex head. Weird. Second-hand car problems. Robert! You are THE BEST! I've learned so much about maintaining this car from your channel! Thank you for making these videos.

[@kimmicalifornio8119]

How’s that $35 bearing doing?

[@sn00ch]

I own 2 850s and one V70 T5 and properly maintain them all because of YOU Robert. I thank you VERY kindly. You are an amazing orator and mechanic! Your videos have saved me many a headache.

[@RobertDIY]

+sn00ch Good deal. Thanks for watching.

[@katherinesanders2880]

I have a long list of to-do's on my '99 S70 wagon. I think I am going to try to fix most of them myself with the use of your videos. I love to learn new things AND save money. Thank you for these videos!!!

[@RobertDIY]

+KATHERINE SANDERS you are welcome

[@OpasJDGarage]

Thanks for video! LOL as I made the mistake of only buying the bearing - long story story, the car sat while I waited for most of the other front end parts to be shipped. My advise to folks doing this job is to buy the ALL parts Robert mentioned as the power of the internet has reduced the price of most aftermarket parts. Chances are good if you have an 850 it will need front end steering and suspension parts. Thanks again for your great videos!

[@RobertDIY]

Thanks again for watching. I have a couple more to post later today.

[@whip819]

Robert, the potholes in CT have taken their toll (again) on the right front wheel bearings of my 98 V70 AWD. Two years ago I had one hub assy literally shatter. The only thing holding the wheel on was the disc and caliper. This bearing took a hit and started with a tick tick sound, now its a chunk chunk that you can feel through the car. Your video helped a lot, simple and to the point. This car has close to 200000 miles on it, and I would like to get to 300K. All my Volvos got over 250K and I love the older versions. I'll check back for over projects. Thanks for taking the time to video this.

[@RobertDIY]

You are welcome. Glad it helped.

[@tractioncontrlol]

Thanks for putting this together, very helpful. I just took out a bearing that was rusted on so tight, that it fell apart when I hit it with a hammer. To get the backside out, I loosely threaded in one of the star bolts and hit that with a hammer and it popped out within a few strikes.

[@RobertDIY]

Good deal

[@theSteakosaurus]

D'oh, don't know how I missed it. I'll be doing a wheel bearing, ball joint, PCV system, and timing belt on my newly acquired 850 this weekend and your videos have been invaluable in preparing. Thanks!

[@RobertDIY]

Good deal.

[@philrupp7124]

There does not seem to be anti-seize nor other lubricant on the drive axle spline. Perhaps there is not much movement to require such? Also, I am grateful for your recommendation to tighten the axle bolt AFTER tightening the wheel mounting bolts and putting the car's weight on the suspension so the drive axle has no play. I finally figured out two different shops had not done this. Much noise and frustration has now been alleviated. Thanks again, Robert. Your efforts have made ownership and repair of these cool cars very enjoyable.

[@RobertDIY]

you are welcome.

[@erikstrieter4233]

Thanks for your videos Robert. I needed the hub replaced on my 95 850, shop quoted me a price of $385 parts included. I got a bearing and did it myself thanks to your video for guidance. My advice to all is be sure to get new star bolts before you start. I didn't and couldn't find any near me so I tried using regular bolts by grinding them down but it was no good so I had to reuse the old ones (they were in ok shape).

[@RobertDIY]

Erik Strieter Glad you got it done.

[@OpasJDGarage]

The last comment was in addition to what I wrote before - the left side axle cost me $60 bucks (new and machined well). When I replace my right ball joint and open up that side, for that price, I'm replacing it. Disclaimer - obviously if the axle has been replaced or the car has low miles it won't be needed. At the end of the day - it's up to the person turning the wrench - but.... I doubt if many 850's out there fall into to that category though. Thanks again for the videos.

[@RobertDIY]

Thanks for sharing.

[@RobertDIY]

Do you have a wagon or sedan? I have not done that yet but I do plan on going to the salvage yard and doing several things. I'll add that to the list.

[@RobertDIY]

Not sure but one of my buddies changed a bearing and it went bad 3 months later. Not worth the risk if you ask me. I've put about 7,000 miles on mine already and it's doing well.

[@ronshepard6558]

Robert- THANK YOU. All the right information to get me going down the road again. I got the Timken bearing from amazon- but I should have ordered it with the replacement bolts- would have been easier than trying to find them locally.

[@RobertDIY]

+Ron Shepard Glad it helped.

[@RobertDIY]

Replace the axle?

[@schmengis]

Great video - I'm using it to guide me through this process on my '98 V70. One thing to be careful of: make sure your E14 or E16 Torx socket is fully engaged (as far on the bolt head as possible) on the wheel bearing mounting bolt, before you loosen them with a breaker bar! I rounded off one of those bolts because I didn't have the socket seated properly, and once they start rounding there's no saving them at the level they're torqued at. To fix it, I ended up taking the steering knuckle off entirely, which only involves disconnecting the tie rod end and the two strut bolts at that point, and cutting/drilling out the bolt head on my workbench. Luckily, the steering knuckle itself is not threaded, only the wheel bearing assembly, so cutting off the bolt head (I'm using my Dremel) should take care of it, and I expect the remainder of the bolt to come out with the old bearing assembly.

[@RobertDIY]

Thanks for sharing and for watching my video.

[@patrickchong2632]

Your comment saved me from buying new knuckle. I rounded all 4 of my bolts and iwas going to buy a new one. Ended up cutting them off andas buying new bolts

[@llamov]

What a terrific video. Thank you so much. I'm about to do this job in a day or two. My V70 broke down on the highway and I had to get it towed home. I'm fairly sure it's the bearing but mine made a sort of high pitched whine before going. I just hope it's the bearing!

[@RobertDIY]

Did the car stall out or just quit moving?

[@RobertDIY]

I have a wagon as well. Please subscribe so you will be notified when I do post the video you want.

[@m.l.2608]

Thank you so much for your great videos. They keep my '96 850 on the road and help saving a lot of money. Finally no more annoying noise from the bearing. Please continue making these great videos ! Kind regards from Germany!

[@RobertDIY]

Thanks for watching.

[@RobertDIY]

You are welcome. Thank you for watching.

[@RobertDIY]

Did you do the job?

[@RobertDIY]

No problem and thank you for clarifying your comment. Some people do like to replace related parts. Others also suggest replacing the cv axle seal that goes into the transmission when they replace an axle to avoid fluid leaks. I priced the OEM axles at the dealer and the cost was about $520 per axle.

[@tomason49]

Hello Robert, I recently bought a 96 850 and I am finding I have cv joints and bearings to replace. When I see your video in the list I jump right to it since I know it will be concise and well produced. Great job my friend.

[@RobertDIY]

You are welcome and thanks for watching. Most of the stuff can be used on a number of cars. Glad they help.

[@RobertDIY]

Good for you. The car will grow on you quickly. I'll keep the video's coming. I'm going to try to post 2 today.

[@GasGiant62]

Great video Rob, very thorough, better than some "professional" tutorials on KZbin, I was looking to fix front bearing on my friends xc70 don't know if it is similar to yours but this video will help me. Thanks.

[@RobertDIY]

GasGiant62 You are welcome. Thanks for watching and for your kind words.

[@motorart4670]

Thank you Robert, your videos really help. Got my first Volvo 850 and it really has everything a modern car has. Will try do my first DIY oil change on it next month.

[@jaapoostindier313]

Again, Thank you so much Robert! Soo instructive, your ´show and tell´, amazing.

[@RobertDIY]

You are very welcome

[@meonetallguy]

Thanks for the video Robert...I'll be attempting this on my '99 Volvo V70 wagon & replacing a torn CV boot! Thanks again!

[@RobertDIY]

meonetallguy You are welcome.

[@aaronmeyer1619]

You are a very considerate and giving person! Amazing that you will share the knowledge that you have, so willingly. Thanks for the great detail, step-by-step procedures, and video editing. Great stuff. BTW, I have 850 turbo, 1995. Will keep this in my "subscribe and watch for" list.

[@RobertDIY]

Thanks for the kind words and for watching.

[@guitartricky]

Great video! One of the best car repair how to videos I've seen on youtube. Very thorough! I like how you showed everything instead of just talking about what you did. Subscribed!

[@doomedgsoul8010]

My guy right here every step on point 💯. Thanks much love my 850

[@RobertDIY]

thanks for watching.

[@RobertDIY]

You are welcome. Glad they help. Thanks for watching.

[@kristinamartinez7452]

You made it look easy, took the fear out of it. Thank you sir

[@wyliefan]

Wonderfully useful and fun to watch! Many thanks Rob.

[@RobertDIY]

Fil Yeskel Fun, you need some excitement in your life. lol Thanks for watching Bob.

[@jayhightower8346]

Good Video, I used your alternator video to replace mine in a 98 V70. working on Calipers now on a 02 V70- thanks for making these it helps to give confidnce to go for it Good job

[@RobertDIY]

You are welcome.

[@brianfischer788]

8:58 Unfortunately for me, I do not have the ball joint that bolts in. I noticed, on my way in, that the lower ball joint has a lot of play in it. I also note it being very difficult to find just the ball joint for sale online. Is the recommended procedure to replace the entire control arm rather than mess with removing and re-pressing the ball joint itself? I'm driving a 1999 V70 XC.

[@RobertDIY]

Yes, new control arm time.

[@alfredkabura]

Thanks for showing the work I have that started I skipped removing some parts so getting to the 4 bolts from inside is real pain but I have the bearing hub in I got dark out so I quit there are 2 bottom bolts I have to tighten really good before putting the break caliper and the rotor in I will get there tomorrow or next weekend thanks again.

[@RobertDIY]

Sometimes it's quicker to pull other parts.

[@gretarbjarnarson3759]

Hei Robert and thank you for this video. If it weren't for you then i would have taken my car to the shop. I have more work to do in the future and i'm counting on your videos to help me in that process :)

[@RobertDIY]

Gretar Bjarnarson Good deal. Hope things go smoothly.

[@Stratoszero]

This is the 2nd time your videos have helped with ny Volvo, thanks. A couple of questions; first off my bearing sounds more like an aeroplane, a constant drone - that couldn't be a CV could it? 2nd, other videos show the strut being loosened to tap the driveshaft out glad to see it can be done without this and needing the tracking done again. However, when tapping the driveshat back throgh the outer hole is this causing any blows to go back in the transmission or is this totally safe?

[@RobertDIY]

Rolling noise, could it be that your power steering system is low on fluid? I doubt a CV axle will make any noise other than clicking while turning at slow speeds. As for tapping the CV axle out of the wheel hub, the CV axle joints have play where you are not banging it into the tranny so you should be fine. You pull the hub away from the car a little and push the axle in. Really should be NO reason to knock it through, it should just slide out with pushing it with your hand. Only time you have to tap it through is when it is stuck in the hub.

[@brianfischer788]

9:49 A great video and ago-to as always. However, just before the 10 minute mark you push the axle out of the hub. In one scene it is in there and the next it is not. I am stuck at this point. I have a 1999 V70 XC with the axle bolt rather than the nut. I have the steering knuckle separated from everything but the axle. How should I remove the axle? I live in the rust belt and everything is pretty crusty. I have applied moderate force with a hammer and a 1/2” socket extension, without any visible progress.

[@RobertDIY]

Did you spray in there with a rust penetrate? Saturate it from both sides and beat it out.

[@brianfischer788]

@@RobertDIY I put some on the face of the hub last night and on the back and again on the front this morning. I’ll give it a couple of hours to work and go back at it.

[@lefthandedluke]

Good job, i was wondering just how hard it would be to do this job and to be honest i think i will tackle this on my own. Well done and thanks for sharing.

[@RobertDIY]

Thank you for watching.

[@yoyomrwhite]

Today I replaced my driverside axle and when tightening the axle nut my mechanic friend said to just use an air impact gun until the gun cant tighten it anymore. And ive noticed a slight vibration when the steering wheel is to the left. Did I over-tighten it? Should I just loosen the nut and torque it to the 89 ft/lbs you said in the video description?

[@RobertDIY]

The proper torque value is 89 ft lbs plus 60 degrees. Not sure if that is causing your vibration or not.

[@eachoneteach1468]

Thank you Robert! For all your videos, all very helpful. I have a question, are both left and right side axle nuts left to loosen and right to tighten? I dont want to be cranking the wrong way. Thanks,

[@RobertDIY]

Eachone Teach1 Yes, if top is point of reference. Counter clockwise is loose.

[@dougrowe5993]

What did you tork the axle nut to ftlbs? I have a 99 s70 2.4 Thanks Robert. Another good video.

[@RobertDIY]

Torque info should be in the DESCRIPTION area.

[@jkdjim]

I love these videos. You're very clear and thorough. Thank you for helping us understand how to fix our cars. I have a Volvo S80 but a lot of the suspension is similar. Thank you!!!!!!!

[@RobertDIY]

You are welcome.

[@redicese1]

Your video show a way easyer way to change the bearing then other video's does, they remove springs and stuff. Going to change on my S70 -97 next month so i'm looking ahead what i need to make it simple and what tools i need

[@RobertDIY]

Cool

[@12Gamuza]

good job! but I have a 1997 960 volvo, do you think it will be the same as your 850 for a rear wheel bearing? I can't find anything online for the 960. Thanks!

[@RobertDIY]

+12Gamuza The 960 would likely be the same as the 740/240/940 vehicles. Actually most are the same. You will probably need a puller.

[@MrBigshotENH]

Thanks for the video! I'm doing this job next week on a 1997 850. I've done it a dozen times on jeeps with solid axles and a few times on GM cars but never on a Volvo. I was wondering if its really necessary to separate the control arm, or if it just helps you get at the hub bolts easier. I have never had to do that step before but then again I've never done a hub on a Volvo!

[@RobertDIY]

MrBigshotENH I'm pretty sure it is necessary. I'm the short cut king.

[@alexlevy322]

I picked up a 2002 C70 Hardtop coupe automatic. It sounds like the right front wheel bearing is shot. What brand wheel bearing would you recommend?

[@RobertDIY]

Volvo or F. A. G.

[@sn00ch]

Robert, I have a serious question and could use your advice asap. Recently, my v70 started making that noise and it's gotten REALLY loud in the past few days. I don't have the time to fix it right now as I have a family emergency that I have to tend to in a few days. It's a 270 mile trek. Is it dangerous to drive or just an annoyance? I have both new bearings, I just don't have the time to put them on before I leave. Can they wait until I get home or should I not risk driving the car (the wheels won't fall off, will they? lol)? Thanks sooooo much. I know you're a very busy man, but I could use your expert advice. Thanks a million in advance! SuperFan- sn00ch (Stevo)

[@RobertDIY]

+sn00ch no the wheels can't fall off. It only takes about 1 hour to replace.

[@philrandolph6966]

Robert, you RULE! Thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU!

[@RobertDIY]

You are welcome

[@kraftyw1999]

Hey +Robert DIY, Last night I was driving and noticed at around 30 MPH, there was an audible hum. I initially thought it was the tires making noise on the newly repaved road, but when I turned onto a different one the hum didn't go away. My 850 needs an alignment badly, could that be the culprit, making the wheels experience more friction than usual? Or do you think it could be something entirely different? Thanks for any help!

[@RobertDIY]

kraftyw1999 Hard to tell without hearing it myself.

[@kraftyw1999]

Robert DIY Thanks anyway for all of your help! BTW your videos have helped me out TREMENDOUSLY. Please don't stop making them!!!

[@RobertDIY]

Ok, I wont. ;)

[@RobertDIY]

Glad it helped. I think my other side is going out now. LOL

[@llamov]

Robert; I sure wish you were here to help us out! Yesterday we went at my car. We replaced the wheel bearing, and when that didn't achieve a fix, we went ahead, bit the bullet, and replaced the CV joint. Nothing achieved but the wasting of almost $200.00. After it was put back together, I drove the car. Now the thumping seems to be coming, not from the right front, but the center of the car. I fear tranny issues.

[@RobertDIY]

Have you had the tires rotated and balanced? What kind of car do you have?

[@jph8235]

Hello Robert ! Great job as usual. Did you get some squealing brakes at low speed, when the bearing was worn, please? Was there any play if you tried to shake the wheel, please? Sorry for my bad English. Regards.

[@RobertDIY]

JPH Only thumping noise while driving.

[@jph8235]

Robert DIY OK, thank you very much. Keep on searching... Regards.

[@jasper_0123]

Hi guys, Robert, your video worked well. Although, the darn head of the Torx (star bolts) twisted completely (and the socket was engaged well). I has to remove the spindle (knuckle), then I grinded down 2 of the 4 heads of the torx bolts that hold the bearing on. It took a little while, you have to move slowly and be careful not to dig into the knuckle with the grinder. I wonder why they use torx head bolts here... I also did the axle because the CV boot was leaking. Did the control arm, and inner and out tie rods... all on the left side. Thanks again

[@RobertDIY]

Nice. You should be good on that side for a while. Not sure why you had such a hard time with the star bolts. I wonder if they had been changed before and over torqued. Do have an alignment done if you can.

[@RobertDIY]

Cool, thanks for watching.

[@michaelsim5726]

thanks for the video and help robert it really helped i just did the job myself on my s70. went perfectly. only thing i did different was instead of removing the control arm at the subframe i unbolted the knuckle at the strut with the two bolts there seemed easier and faster and it came foward and i took the axle right out. thanks again!

[@masterjedai828]

Hi Robert, great video and super helpful tool. I ordered a new hub assembly online. Should be here within a couple days. I'm going to take everything apart in the mean time. Two questions for you. First is, what's the torque spec for the axle bolt when you finish the job? Second is, for replacing the sway bar linkage, if the torx bit is stripped when removing the original links, what would be a good way to remove those without spending too much? Thanks!

[@RobertDIY]

+jacob bogart Specs should be in the comments, no idea about the end links. Maybe a hack saw.

[@dougrowe5993]

Hi Robert. They don’t just make a single wheel bearing to replace? So we’re subjected to replacing the whole hub. Is that the case? Thanks. Oh yeah. But another good video Bro!

[@RobertDIY]

That is correct.

[@meonetallguy]

Hello Robert. In the video you mentioned "steel braided brake (caliper) hoses...did you get those hoses? If yes please post the vendor. Thank you Robert.

[@RobertDIY]

meonetallguy If you purchase a specialty item like that, get them from a Volvo parts supplier. That way you know others have tried them.

[@meonetallguy]

Hello Robert, thanks for sharing your experience! I'm curious as to why you disassembled the caliper tension spring/clip & the caliper bracket? I'm in the process of changing my wheel bearing & the boot. I took off the bracket & caliper all intact...hopefully there isn't any uh oh's because of that...your thoughts? Thanks again Robert.

[@RobertDIY]

meonetallguy LOL, I have no idea. No reason to do that. Good catch, I will probably fix that video. Maybe I was thinking I needed to remove them to compress the caliper to get it back on the rotor.

[@paultohh]

hey roberts thanks for the video. I have a question. on my 98 s70 when i turn left and the weight of the car is shifted to the passengar side of the vehicle i hear an oscillating sound come from the front passenger wheel. It usually only happens when the weight shifts to the passengar side when i turn or drive through a curve. Is this because of a bad wheel bearing hub? Outside of turns and driving along curves i don't hear or feel oscillation or at least I can't detect it. thanks,

[@RobertDIY]

Paul T. Sounds like it. It will gradually get worse. May take a while to get real bad.

[@paultohh]

how long do you think I have until it needs replaced? It sounds the worst when i'm driving a long a curve and the weight shifts to the passengar side of the vehicle, the oscillation noise is troubling, almost feels like the wheel could pop off. outside of this though it usually doesn't sound that bad

[@RobertDIY]

If you hear it, it needs to be replaced. It can last 1,000 miles or 10,000 miles. When it gets real bad it will begin to damage knuckle or axle.

[@d.j.fearlessiam8125]

Robert...I have a Question...The Driverside axle nut....Is it counter clock wise to loosen or clockwise???

[@RobertDIY]

It's normal.

[@d.j.fearlessiam8125]

This one is stuck... Going to put the Heat to it....Broke Two breaker bars

[@RobertDIY]

I broke 4 breaker bars on one once. Never did get that thing off. Spray it good with some penitrant a few times.

[@d.j.fearlessiam8125]

Robert...Let's Hope I don't have to CUT this 1996 850....axle nut... Thanks for your help... I hope to meet you some day... Volvo to Volvo

[@RobertDIY]

Where are you located?

[@fun1brians]

Great Video! I like your step by step approach! I will be doing this repair for a friends car and this video really helps! God Bless! Brian

[@RobertDIY]

Hi Brian, thanks for watching. Hope all goes well.

[@DriveTimeDIY]

Robert, that was excellent. Extremely helpful!

[@RobertDIY]

Thanks for watching.

[@LilDanellc]

Hey Robert I drive the same volvo as you 1997 850 series why do it make that loud rattling sound how do I stop it

[@RobertDIY]

Lil Dane I have no idea what noise you are referring to. Dash? Suspension? What? - Noisy Dash Before and After, Volvo S70, V70, 850 - Auto Information Series

[@duonis112]

Very helpful. Just changed it in just 40 minutes.

[@RobertDIY]

Good deal. Glad it helped.

[@Topsiekku]

What was the size of those torx bolts? Have to do again that operation. Gsp bearing didnt last very long time.

[@RobertDIY]

Did you watch the video?

[@kdl5007]

hey robert, thanks for the vid. got my rotors and pads done successfully thanks to you. so i bought a 36mm socket and it's too large for my 98 s70. haven't been able to find a size. any idea?

[@Ragnarok-wv5mn]

Hey Robert, just wondering. What would be the source of a chirping noise at low speeds on my 98 V70 Glt fwd. I changed the cv axles, control arms, sway bars and tie rods already. It also makes the chirping noise when parked uphill. I also noticed that if I press down on the bracket that bolts and holds the passenger side CV axle the noise stops. Any advice on what to check next would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

[@Ragnarok-wv5mn]

The CV axles were Napa axles and the arms, links and tie rods were meyle

[@Ragnarok-wv5mn]

Also when parked uphill there is vibration in the car, when downhill or flat that vibration doesn't happen.

[@RobertDIY]

I can't hear it from here...

[@Ragnarok-wv5mn]

@@RobertDIY sorry, I took a video of the vibration in the cabin and the chirping sound from around the wheel area. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mX6oiJlne7GiepY . If you happen to come back to the Albuquerque area I'd like to pay you to take a look if you could.

[@myrrhvin]

Hi Robert,Have you done this cars rear bearing before? i believe mine is about due and never have done one prior..Thanks.

[@RobertDIY]

myrrhvin Kind of. They have to be pressed off.

[@jeremiahlyleseditor437]

Robert, Would the HUB need removing if the struts were being changed?

[@RobertDIY]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/naWcqGCQiN2mb6s

[@RobertDIY]

no

[@martyg1949]

Wonderfully planned and executed video. Thanks very much.

[@brianfischer788]

Robert - the only video worth watching! After replacing the hub/bearing (driver’s side) and putting stuff back together, I noticed transmission fluid leaking from the point at which the axle meet the transaxle. I’m thinking that the axle seal got pushed/dislodged as I moved the axle around to push the spline back into the hub. A few ounces drained and the it stopped. Does the axle seal sound like the problem or does it sound like something else?

[@RobertDIY]

If it's transmission fluid it's probably the axle seal, however, if you did NOT remove the axle, the seal did not move. My guess is that it was already starting to leak.

[@brianfischer788]

Thanks Robert! I just watched your CV Axle replacement video to walk through the seal process. Are those wheels on that 850 the stock? Sharp! Would those fit a ‘99 V70 XC?

[@RobertDIY]

yes they are and will fit. They are titans, pegs also look like them. Hard to find titans, pegs are more common. Get 17".

[@brianfischer788]

Good to see you out fishing in the gulf,@@RobertDIY ! I should have you up to Duluth, Minnesota some time. We can go fishing on Lake Superior. We can bang on my V70 XC or push it into the lake and shoot flaming arrows at it, depending on how I’m feeling about it at the time.

[@OutdoorBoys100]

Hey Robert I have a 98 s70 and am currently trying to diagnose an issue. Current symptoms are slight vibration around 45-55mph that I can feel in steering and from driver side front, and I get a clicking noise from the front driver side as well that seems rotational but I hear mainly when deceleration or when I'm off throttle. Can only hear that with my windows down and driving under 30mph I'm guessing because of overall noise at that speed so I simply can't hear the click. It changes tho sometimes it's a click then rotation then click sometimes it sounds like there's 5 clicks in 2 seconds like a bunch of rocks in my tires lol. Tires r fine however. Last symptom is I used to get the howl sound at 50mph but I haven't been hearing it recently so not sure what that means lol. Anyway sorry for the essay and any help is appreciated thanks Robert

[@RobertDIY]

I would start by replacing the CV axle, then the bearing.

[@johnklooster1575]

Thanks Robert!!! I have 2- '97 Volvo 850 T-5's (wagon and sedan) and absolutely love these cars. I've done lots of work on both and always check in with you before starting the next "project". Really appreciate your tool/ supply list. I have a front end thumping (right? with no grinding noise) that increases with speed when accelerating- not as pronounced when coasting, braking or slowing down. This happened when getting it back from alignment after replacement of both front axles, struts, strut mounts/ seats, and inner/ outer tie rod ends. I have since replaced front right motor mount that was in horrible shape- still thumping- and (noticing lots of right side to side play in the wheel) today replaced the right lower control arm (and still lots of side to side play). Does the thumping on acceleration and side to side play on the wheel sound like the hub? Concerned that it might also be a 1) bad wheel 2) bad remaining engine mounts and lower torque mount or 3) bad axle (rebuilt USA from FCP) Your thoughts?

[@RobertDIY]

John Klooster My initial thought is to have the shop that did the work, fix it. If you had no issues before you took it for an alignment, and have issues after, I would think that they did something wrong. Rhythmic thumping comes from bearings, cv axles, or tires.

[@johnklooster1575]

Robert DIY A good test for axle vs. bearing? This will ultimately end up back in my court. I installed the axles and tie rod ends- then took it in to a local tire shop for alignment and they also replaced suspension components (I supplied full FCP -Bilstien Touring pkg with a XC seat substitution). Bearings, CV and tires will be on me. Just ruled out the tire (replaced with the other Volvo's) and still thumping.

[@RobertDIY]

Grrrrr.

[@johnklooster1575]

Robert DIY Hey Robert. Thanks for your help!

[@RobertDIY]

Yes, it is either a 36 mm or a 32 mm. I'm not sure why they use 2 different size nuts.

[@onlyonename3897]

Will this job also apply to the P2 models? 05' S60, thank you Robert

[@RobertDIY]

Close.

[@mykepointoh9306]

I got a noise when I turn to the left a lil humming sound around 60 to 70 mph is it my wheel bearing or my CV joint need help thanks great video's

[@RobertDIY]

I have no idea.

[@bzalto]

Robert, how many foot pounds of torque for the axle bolt? Thanks!

[@RobertDIY]

***** The torque values are in the ABOUT comments. Axle bolt turque value is 89 FT/LBS plus 60 degrees.

[@prestonbyrd2670]

Love your videos brother Man. Thanks for your knowledge

[@RobertDIY]

Glad you like them!

[@WBD86]

Thanks again Great videos You are the best, some much 850/v70 content!

[@RobertDIY]

Thanks for watching

[@josev638]

Hello Robert...I need to know if it is possible to service the power steering ? If so could you make a video of it?

[@RobertDIY]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qoe8hpiVltmVjdU

[@mdamad1318]

How can you I tell which side need a new bearing because its pretty hard to hear which side when driving. Thank you great video!!

[@RobertDIY]

+M D A M A D Pull the tire and check for play. Or you can wait till it gets worse. I promise you, it will.

[@paulhartmann9407]

get it up on a lift and get the wheels spinning with the car in drive. you can hear the bad bearing this way.

[@RobertDIY]

You are welcome.

[@Quadrigius]

Great video, really helpful, especially listing all the tools and sockets needed etc. I've never worked on any car before, but you have given me the confidence to try this for myself. Any chance you'll ever do a video to show how to replace the rear bushings on an 850? I've got an advisory on mine that they're going to need replacement soon, but I don't really know what a bushing is or where it/they are located. Any help would be much appreciated. Keep up the good work! All the best.

[@RobertDIY]

Which ones?

[@SimRacer96]

hi robert i must say you helped me hard with this one im now trying to change my wheel bearing in the front left and unfortunately for me i had to take off the bolts from my strut and get my axle out to access my bolts for the bearing since my control arm was not the same as the 850 ones since i own a v70 1997 model :)

[@RobertDIY]

Thanks for watching

[@SimRacer96]

@@RobertDIY hi i must ask you one more question how did you remove the wheel bearing? my hub that the wheel sits on just came loose and now the actual wheel bearing is stuck inside the hub assembly any suggestions for me to get it loose? i've blasted almost a whole can of wd-40 on it

[@RobertDIY]

Not sure what you are trying to explain but if the hub is stuck in the knuckle, beat it out with a sledge hammer.

[@SimRacer96]

@@RobertDIY where the wheel rides on came loose and the actual bearing itself is stuck in the knuckle so im gonna try and heat the bearing up and hammer it hopefully it comes out fingers crossed..

[@samuelwck588]

Does T5R wheels are compatible on classic 16inch T5 model without modification ?

[@RobertDIY]

+Samuel Opi Huh? The T5R wheels are 17" and will bolt on any 850 post '93.

[@phishertube]

You have the greatest videos, thanks Man.

[@RobertDIY]

+phishertube Thanks for watching and your kind words.

[@Kris2832]

Great video, gonna try this repair tomorrow 👍

[@RobertDIY]

Thanks for watching.

[@llamov]

It was making sort of a high pitched whine. It sounded like tire/road noise. While traveling at about 65mph on the interstate it made a "clunk" and began to vibrate badly. I believed I had a flat tire. It wasn't a flat. We had to tow it home. I'm having it towed to my son in law's this weekend where we'll pull the wheel and see what it is. My son in law is betting on a wheel bearing.

[@RobertDIY]

Please post back and let us know.

[@josev638]

How to physically check the front wheel bearings without thanking everything apart?

[@RobertDIY]

Listen.

[@Quadrigius]

Hi, thank you for the reply; it's a 1995 850 2.5 petrol estate (station wagon). Regards..

[@RobertDIY]

OK

[@bzalto]

That is very thoughtful of you! Thanks!

[@RobertDIY]

You are welcome.

[@richolishis94]

Is it okay that your 850 is only charging at 11.9 volts?

[@RobertDIY]

No, probably has a bad battery cable connection at the positive post.

[@AwakeDude911]

yup I did this job last week and I only unplugged the drivers side abs wire and didn't unplug the pass side now the DSide wheel abs sensor is throwing no reading and its plugged in I've taken it back out cleaned it and still not working...job took about 2 hrs per side but now I have the tracs and abs light ON but I think the sensor is shot. it was working fine before I unplugged it and wires seem fine not sure what happed but ill need to multi read every thing under the wheel well to be sure...

[@RobertDIY]

+AwakeDude911 Grrr, that stinks. I need to do one today. Passenger side, on the donor car.

[@BlastReadingSeries]

Did you clean it with electrical parts cleaner? Or did you just end replacing the sensor...

[@Quadrigius]

Thanks Robert, I have subscribed. All your videos are very clear, really a great help. Keep up the good work.

[@RobertDIY]

Will do.