Full Install EG4 6000XP Inverter

[@JustinsProject]

BUY the EG4 6000XP: signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000xp-off-grid-inverter-split-phase/?ref=justinsproject

[@Reve-zg2mf]

Your videos have helped me a lot. You explain them without all the extra unnecessary information making it easy to understand. Thank you!

[@JustinsProject]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@kajavaid]

One of the best videos - this is exactly what I was planning to replicate for my off grid setup. Thanks for sharing.

[@JustinsProject]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@Mr_Hundredaire]

I like it. I never knew for sure that you could connect the XP6000 to the grid. I wanted to run a mini-split and have grid to pick up when the battery is below 10%

[@JustinsProject]

You can charge from. The grid but not backfeed the grid. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻

[@AlexDawson2020AD]

Awesome video! ... Thankyou!

[@JustinsProject]

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@AdamDeLayDIY]

Nice job with the install and explanation!

[@JustinsProject]

Much appreciated 🙏

[@P81OS2]

Nice work on this one, Justin!

[@JustinsProject]

Thanks!

[@elevatedsciencesllc8089]

Great install. You don't need 6 awg on the AC output though. Next time you can save a few bucks and not have to wrestle with big wires. For the Ac output on an EG4 the manual calls for 8awg but really 10awg is perfectly fine because the unit is not capable of producing over 30 amps.. I keep a roll of romex 10/3 on hand for this

[@elevatedsciencesllc8089]

Also I noticed you used 10 awg on the PV input, the unit is not capable of accepting 30 amps input it maxes out at 20 amps so you can use 12 awg there. Excellent work regardless

[@kajavaid]

I am planning to use two 6000 XPs in a a parallel configuration and will be combining their input and output connections - so I thought that I would need 6 awg for the individual units and from the combiner box, will use 4 AWG for the main connection. Will it be an overkill?

[@elevatedsciencesllc8089]

@@kajavaid Don't even use a combiner box. Run 10 awg straight to the AC panel and combine the inverters at the AC panel. All you need is a dual trip 4 Pole 30 amp breaker.

[@elevatedsciencesllc8089]

That's the off grid electrician special right there been doing it for years

[@kajavaid]

@@elevatedsciencesllc8089 Thanks. I really appreciate your advice.

[@stevenfrazier8939]

great job, concise and on point

[@JustinsProject]

Much appreciated!

[@sheilaashley]

This is a great video! 👍🏼

[@JustinsProject]

Much appreciated 🙏

[@CaptKizashi]

Nice how to video.. Dumb question: I have the 6000xp & bought 1) VATRER 51.2v 100Ah LifePO4 battery by mistake. Didnt notice it doesnt have a COM port:/ Has app + blue tooth & a nice touchscreen so will try to use it. I don't plan to hook it up to PV for a while so I want to connect the Grid to the 6000 using an extention cord cutting off the female end & connecting the black wire to L1, white to white common & GRD to ground bar. The plug-in is on a single 20A CB in my 100A subpanel for my 1000sq ft addition. I only want to pwr lights & TV.. no 220v AC etc. I had the addition wired w/ a backup generator so I already had RELIANCE PRO/TRAN 2 transfer switch w/ 10 CBs I plan to pwr with the battery during a pwr outage. So I won't need to charge the battery very often from the grid. The main side of the house has 2k PV & 2 EG4 48v-LL batteries & another 6000XP that i use to pwr 10 circuits using another transfer switch.. so wont backfeed to the grid if we lose pwr. The battery manual says "recommended charge current is 20A (0.2C)". Since my 12AWG extention cord doesn't have a Red wire do I still need to install a 8AWG 3wire to a 30A DBL throw CB? OR can it be a 20A DBL CB OR will the battery charge ok w/ using the 2 wire extention cord plug-in to an 20A outlet idea?

[@CaptKizashi]

Update.. I could not get the VATRER battery to connect & turn on the 6000XP plus it didn't have a COMM port. Also another nice feature the EG4 battery has "2 onboard fire extinguishing modules" so I robbed one of my 2 EG4s that I had in parallel so now each of my 6000XPs will only have one battery. Now I need to return the 110# VATRER battery so it will cost me $200 to ship it back. Otherwise, it seems & looks like a good battery & if it would have worked w/ my 6000XP I probably would have kept it.

[@alexherrera3918]

Is it posible to coneect it without the transfer switch? As a backup in case of a power outlet? So no power then inverter will use batteries, but if power then inverter will charge batteries. Assuming no solar is installed.

[@RetroHGenX]

Great video. Can you tell me the model of that Reliance transfer switch please?

[@JustinsProject]

Sorry for the late reply. Here is a link to the exact one and where I got it: shrsl.com/4qi78 - Also here is the user manual - cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0536/3390/8911/files/Sub_Panel_With_Transfer_Switch.pdf?v=1706003757 - I hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@LONE-SOUL]

Would anyone advice against this unit for a moving vehicle like an, RV, Van or skoolie?

[@JustinsProject]

I think this would work perfectly in a RV or Van. It can be a little noisy under a decent load though. My measurement came in at 61 (dB). But I have tested portable power stations louder than that. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@tjmooney4181]

Was watching to find the settings to set for the grid input to start charging batteries when hitting 20% soc or even better 46v

[@JustinsProject]

I am planning on making a review video of the inverter at some point. I will note to go over the settings in that. Thanks for watching and commenting! 👍

[@tjmooney4181]

@JustinsProject tech at signature solar recommend changing to lead acid and voltage in settings and power cycling 5-10 times which consists of draining battery bank to 46v and charge back up to 56v in as small time period for each as possible then switching back to lithium and setting 1 for powerpro batteries ( setting 0 for battery brand for lifepower and ll rack batteries)

[@cory8837]

No need for the transfer switch. The inverter will seamlessly transfer if the grid connection is present.

[@markhudson2997]

You have to use a method to ensure you don’t back feed the grid. The 6000 does not have that built in

[@jimmyg6215]

@@markhudson2997remove line in feed in sub panel and install into grid port of 6000xp. Run load port of 6000xp back to subpanel where u removed the line in feed. Problem solved, no backfeed, ur just limited to 3000w per 120v side of panel, so may need to do some balancing.

[@cory8837]

@@markhudson2997 wrong

[@JustinsProject]

Depends on how you will be using it. In my case, I definitely need a transfer switch. But I get your point. It's not necessary in all applications.

[@kurtvogel9431]

what load wire is that black wire? Link?

[@JustinsProject]

I used a 50amp extension cable. Here is the link if you are interested. amzn.to/3Cqa7tH - That is exactly the one I purchased.

[@hanklinch2833]

What size wires on l1 l2 did you use

[@JustinsProject]

#6 awg for 50amps

[@LONE-SOUL]

does anyone think this inverter would be a bad idea for a moving vehicle? like an RV, skoolie, Van, etc.? I have not seen any videos of this inverter in a moving vehicle, why is that?

[@JustinsProject]

I think it would be ok.

[@quickquote1568]

A poor man's inverter. High frequency, output transformerless inverters like this offer a shorter life expectancy, a poorer surge capacity, and because they lack an output transformer to provide galvanic isolation between its DC boost stage and its AC output, they pose a potential fire risk when powering a home's AC appliances. No thanks. Not in my home.

[@brooksstone2098]

Suggestions on what you would use, and how you would setup .

[@JustinsProject]

Thanks for watching and commenting!