This Simple Setting Transforms FFB On All Moza Wheels┃ Pit House Guide

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

A very boring video ! - but great for people with Moza wheels - Here is a Moza setting guide and explanation of settings with AC -kzbin.info/www/bejne/iXu5iqWsj7SGgac&ab_channel=GamerMuscleVideos

[@TrueBlade-1889]

No. I found it quite dull too. I have a Moza.

[@Reyze_]

I have to give credit where it's due. I wouldn't have given a penny to 0 road sensitivity or damper with max wheel speed... But with the same base i tried the exact same settings and time was just so easy to find in a lap you could actually feel the car so well and just more detail. Thanks for sharing this, great video.

[@Xpl0jd1]

I got R12 with KS and will try this, have you tried this in ACC? I know you think that game has the best ffb. 😉

[@matthewfoxwell6482]

This is insane, I’ve had my R9 for a few months, and it feels like I’ve just got a new wheel base 🤩. Can’t thank you enough

[@Simboblian]

got a moza R5 4 days ago. felt very wibbly wobbly, shakey, whatever. Now I’m using the MOST POWERFUL SETTING, it makes loads of difference. Way better. Thank you.

[@DaSimSimma]

what a lovely chap !! every video : A PRESENT TO THE WORLD ! Love ya bud !!!

[@goochygoochoutdoors.1913]

I’m really new to direct drive wheel kit. I’ve followed your guide. Holy bloody hell, loads of difference.

[@MegaIronica]

As someone who uses 40hz as the frequency of the rumble strips on the corners for my buttkicker bass shaker, your interpretation of 40hz is spot on! 😮

[@youngbeliz6177]

People bash you for your hate of ams2… but you actually fix the game with your request FFB . Why the game didn’t just come like that, this makes no sense. Well, I’m loving it now.

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

I don't hate AMS2 , I just directly state things rather than mincing words for the sake of being popular. The things I say are really not controversial either, when it comes to physics and game FFB I only really comment on the really obvious and overall aspects , basically distilled to "does it generally drive like a car , and does the sim tell you what that car like object is doing through FFB with good detail" But still that's enough to really upset some people. 😄

[@youngbeliz6177]

@@GamerMuscleVideos Keep Doing you ! No sugar coating 😁

[@G-13FeedMe]

@@GamerMuscleVideos maybe you can fix lmu next.. a lot to like about that sim but the ffb aint great next to AC1

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

@G-13FeedMe LMU has a similar issue that ACC has in that it doesn't have much dynamic range for the tire grip / basically you get a flat force signal around the limit as a result you can't use FFB to know exactly where the tires are like you can AC. Best you can do for LMU is turn game filter to 0 and then filter the games noise by reducing the high frequency FFB in the EQ with the Moza. But unfortunately there is no way to get any real useful details for tire grip other than vibrations and strong tug for the rear causing counter steer.

[@antonlammers1454]

If you click on Road Sensitivity level 4 (which is normal according to Moza) you will notice they tune the FFB equalizer even more down on higher frequencies . Have been using this all the time, buttery smooth. Just tried all your other settings with my FFB EQ/LVL4 Road Sensitivity, sublime mate. I am on the R5 just for info, and also turn down all friction and dampening like you do, reasoning was to get the purest signal from the game. Thanks for the video sir.

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

Yah the lower the NM the wheel base generally the less damper and filters a person would want to use as it will just end up hiding details from the games FFB. The lower NM a wheel base the less it will do things like overshoot , osscilate or be overactive , same with higher NM wheel bases if they are run at lower strengths. Lower strength motors the initia of the wheel rim itself will also be physically dampening the FFB. I'd say under 8Nm near to zero damper is almost always going to be the best , though with some FFB bases on the market, the motors are so good and free moving a tiny bit of damper can make them feel a bit more solid rather than 100% free spinning or maybe also add a bit more smoothness helping to smooth over some situations where a games FFB is a bit dead.

[@weslammey8502]

Thank you! After tweaking almost everything else, finally got my r9 to feel smooth and natural. Makes dirt Ovals a lot better. I was able to get rid of the unnatural harshness. I tried a simicube ultimate a while back. I was thinking I need to get something else if I wanted something smooth without distortion. Feels like a new wheel, and a lot cheaper to keep mine for a while longer.

[@lautlog7303]

Moving the "Road Sensitivity"-Slider in the "Basic Settings"-Tab to a value of 7 or 8 will exactly do this. So there's no need to fiddle with the FFB Equalizer if you just want to cut high frequencies.

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

I think It makes more sense to do it in the EQ setting especially as once a person understands how the HZ relates to the FFB output then they can just tweak the specific hz they want rather than using some vaguely described "road sensitivity" setting which basically does same sort of things but more limited and without actually describing what its doing.

[@gregorychoubana6755]

Agreed, I run with Road Sensitivity at 8 with my R12 and that's exactly how it automatically sets the FFB curve.

[@caaarlos]

I come forth upon the FFB church in order to ask for prayers and any advice regarding the Podium DD1 and Fanalab that you the pastor have used in the past. The AMS2 ffb video was an amazing upgrade!

[@TheMash84]

I left Moza after 2 years for Simagic. Had the R5 and R9. New reality. The servo motors and precision on the Simagic I believe is way way better. The road effects are very clean, organic and never robotic. Also I hated on my R9 the metallic clunks from reverbs and internal vibrations going through the wheel, this on higher power effects. I felt like something was not tight inside. And bear in mind I purchased two R9 in one week to check if this was a problem with my single unit. I think the firmware can be vastlly improved as well as the electronics/internal mechanics. But I loved Moza, it was my first DD wheelbase after 20 years of break from racing games, when the wheelbases where basically noisy, slow and quite rough, with gears, potentiometers and cheap motors.

[@GunvaldRacing]

Thank you GamerMuscle for sharing your findings. I´m on a R12 + KS wheel and can´t wait to test your settings!

[@marke5174]

With RF2 and when LMU first released, this became vital to remove the chattering after a few laps coming through the wheel

[@鱷魚山先生]

Very good information. I also found this equalizer very helpful in eliminating annoying high-frequency noise since I upgraded from R5 to R12 several months ago.

[@michael1]

Just open the window and let the mosquito out

[@SingleRacerSVR]

Very Very Clever GM - on how you turn down the high end of the FFB Effect Equalizer - but turn UP the REEEEEVEEEERRRB to announce the "most powerful setting" in the Moza Software. They don't call you GamerMuscle for nothing, GM. ; )))

[@lugs118]

Good video, I don’t even own a Moza but always interested in anything FFB related.

[@coreyturner2610]

Thanks

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

Hay man that's super generous ! really apricate it as these sorts of videos don't really get many views normally :)

[@coreyturner2610]

@@GamerMuscleVideos i enjoy your content in general, cant beat the dry humour. cheers for the entertainment.

[@robertocacciatore-x2r]

Thanks Gm, i always appreciate your videos you always tell the truth mate. i was messing around with that ffb equaliser as you have done made it feel more natural.

[@luibrahimaj740]

Interesting video. I copied someone’s ffb settings off Reddit a while back and quite liked them, quite a fair bit of damper tho and I am on an r5 so I’ll be giving this a try. Thanks GM!

[@ciaranconnor4466]

Thanks for the info, run an R21 and will try this.

[@lbdn1943]

Agree with GMs comment about the ffb curve and how it can mess it up. From different experiments it tends to just be one alteration that is needed by just 1 percent to improve a feel. I.e instead of 20/20, change it to 20/21. ( 20 just an example ) 1 percent can make a significant difference. No need to be drastic

[@StephenParsons]

Will you make slight adjustments per sim and keep various presets for them? Seeing that you have FFB Intensity and Max wheel speed set to max, I'm curious do you use this specific setup in any sims or did you just have most of dialed down because it wasn't the focus of the video? I'm curious if other viewers have lots of presets or if they just set their base as "one setting to rule them all" and then adjust in game?

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

Generally keep it the same , but for sims that have more high frequency noise id turn high end down lower and vice versa but to be honest tend to just leave it I'm not to fussed lol for cars that are overactive in FFB especially some vintage cars ill add a bit of damper - if i has higher nm moza id probably use more damper and with lower nm moza id use no damper. but yah maybe having 1 preset per type of car could be a good idea , with flight sims i have a preset for small plane , jet plane , large jet , helicopter I think it might just be better for people to get a feel for what settings do and then you can just change stuff right away with no thought if something is annoying with a specifc car lol. reducing the high end though i think is something you would probably do for all cars anyway.

[@JPiLLa]

How would you adjust the equalizer for Moza R9 v2 + KS Wheel for F1 24?

[@inakilopez3261]

Thank you for putting subtitles on your videos.👋

[@TJ_Simon]

Thanks for this! Just got the same R12-KS, learning direct drive on the way. I will be 100 seconds faster now, I only have one question. How Much Is The Fish?

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

£1

[@wabbit234]

Luckily I still have the king of wheels that is the G27 (never obsolete) and don't have to worry about any of this. Good video.

[@illyze]

Thank you, those vibration are literally what annoys me in rf2/LMU and iRacing as well.

[@frankzappa2274]

FFb equalizer... I use a different base but I know exactly what you mean. Get rid of all that high frequency noise and still enjoy all the strength and detail without needless filtering. A must for any strong base

[@steve196134]

@@frankzappa2274 don't eat the yellow snow ! Love zappa !

[@frankzappa2274]

@steve196134 Hi Steve, cheers mate!!

[@G-13FeedMe]

funnily enough although the g pro came with NO settings it feels like its already been configured with this in mind.. the low frequency's are excellent.. so much so that on my ebay rig special i get locational vibrations that correlate to the wheels of the car.. its things like LMU where i wish i had a bit more control over the ffb.. dosnt help theres no pre-set for the g pro in the .json files

[@ranSmsB]

I'm curious to see if the death wobble is still present with these settings, as I had to add a ton of wheel friction, inertia and small amount of damper to stabilize the wheel.

[@kamildwa9163]

in base ffb curve, select linear and try to lower game ffb output signal in the first 10%. worked for me and is no longer oscilating

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

That is creating a non linear essentially FFB springy dead zone in the centre of the FFB , which you really don't want , as you ideally want a linear response and something that imidaitly convays tire grip as you turn into a corner , or rotate a car into a corner on trail brakes.

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

Ocalation will probably happen with all loose wheels due to latency between sim and ffb , just don't let go of the wheel or do as you did with damper / speed dependent damper or use lower FFB strength. Real car wheels tend to have lots more damper play and imprecision compared to a sim wheel + no delay so tend not to have these issues ( though can in some situations old road cars due to wheel geometry and some interesting physics things) Thing is you feel what the cars doing though game wheel and not your body so it's generally better to not compromise information with a sim for the sake of making the wheel feel the same as a real car wheel. Some real car wheels will also have no FFB at all , and with some geometry the FFB from wheel will be neutral or inverted even 😆.

[@kamildwa9163]

@@GamerMuscleVideos Yes, there is no perfect solution, but slightly lowering ffb when the wheel is centered and within 5% of it's rotation helps. Real cars steering wheels don't oscillate and don't hold so hard onto the center. After changing the setup, wheelbase works more like a real car. Also it isn't that there is 0 ffb in this range, it's just lowered enough and imo feels more realistic

[@robertmccarthy2770]

Truly doing the lords work 🙏

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

Blessed be the FFB

[@TheMightyHellfish]

Before I watched this video, I was a 110kg weakling. Girls used to kick sand in my face and laugh. I would see Sim Racers walking off on the arms of, and in awe of these bullies. Now I have knowledge of these MOST POWERFUL SETTINGS!! ... and nothing's really changed... :) So, no mention of the R3 or is nothing under 10Nm worthy enough in the Sim world ? :D

[@talal26]

I will say though, for ACC, I recommend keeping the 100Hz slider at 100%. ACC communicates tyre slip and tyre squeal through a VERY high Frequency vibration and turning down the 100Hz slider will reduce that sensation. Keeping that slider at 100% (or higher if you want) will help you feel the tyre slip a lot better rather than it feeling like you can endlessly turn the wheel and not feel any slip.

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

Unless you are specifically talking about the low end Moza wheels which could be such that they don't really put out much noise in the first place. 100hz is like a toothbrush , you will still feel vibrations for any tire slip or understeer vibrations with the settings in this video. Also if a person is over turning a wheel they are doing something massively wrong and should have noticed the in game sound or lack of vechal response from input regardless of crazy high hz vibrations. Typically in real cars tire slip vibrations are also relatively low frequency especially on road tires , slicks are different but it's still really not in the 100hz range and should still be felt just fine with some of the top end reduced. ACC vibrations are really over the top anyway it's why people believe ACC has detailed FFB because they are unaware that what a driver needs to drive from are the dynamic range of low frequency FFB / changes in sustained forces which ACC simply doesn't have other than initial suspension compression. LMU has a similar issue with its FFB , unfortunately less experienced simracers feel lots of different vibrations and think a sims has amazing FFB , this has been made worse with "true force " and "full force" which anyone I know that's experienced simply turns of or reduces to almost nothing 😆. I think it's maybe because people often first find out about haptics through game controllers or phone vibrations or something and don't understand how the low frequency details are what matter.

[@BartSimpson-l1c]

​@@GamerMuscleVideos lol

[@socrateresorts1963]

Let's hope fanatec finally implement a proper FFB software, so we can also fine tune it.

[@DnBVooDooDNA]

R21 here, will test without filters soon and just play with the EQ, but my current setups use filters, eq is mostly similar to this. yeah i wish i had a bigger option, and something much tougher as a rig (extra reinforced alum rig, i can still rip shit out of it if me and the R21 do it rough on a spoon civic).

[@BartSimpson-l1c]

How did it feel?

[@BartSimpson-l1c]

Did it work

[@Squeezy01]

Sharing the info since I learned this not too long ago. The reason why there is no slider adjuster below 10Hz is because it's difficult to make/program a filter that would have such a precise cutoff. By changing something around 5Hz you'd always be affecting the neighbouring frequencies, because the differences in frequencies are so small.

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

A divide by 0 issue ?

[@Squeezy01]

@@GamerMuscleVideos Sort of. It's close to math. Basically you can represent the behavior of the filter with a division of two polynomials and for our purpose we'll focus on the divisor. Two main things to look out for are the polynomial degree and the Q factor. If the polynomial degree is higher the filter will have a stricter (almost squared off) curve thus having the ability to more clearly filter between the frequencies that are close together (like in our case, 1-10Hz). There is a tradeoff however where if the degree is too large we might bring in distortion, oscillations or phase shifts to our filter. The second one, the Q factor determines how well (how hard) we filter out a specific frequency. The higher it is the greater the filtering effect will be, but like with the degree of the polynomial if we go too high we risk making our filter either too sensitive or unpredictable. With everything I've just said you can see how difficult the balancing act is of making the filter as good as it can be while making it suitable and stable enough for real-time applications 😅

[@kenstewart3607]

Reducing higher frequencies might make you more competitive, but I’ve found they take away the character from different track surfaces. I tried driving on Sebring in AMS2 with the high frequencies turned off and the track surface felt a lot less bumpy (which is a defining characteristic of that track). Again, turning off this noise might be more competitive since you can “feel the grip” better, but I think it takes away from the immersion factor of some sims.

[@kenstewart3607]

That being said, I did end up turning down the setting a little since it can definitely be over exaggerated.

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

It won't make you faster or slower and you can still feel track texture. Filtering the absolute top end high hz will just remove noise and vibrations. It would only remove track detail vibrations of someone basically moved all the top end to 0 but they can obviously chose howuch of that they want to do. You will still feel all track bumps and details and road surface details , you can still feel the load and grip with the noise as well as low frequency FFB is probably the most obvious thing a person should notice and the single most important aspect of FFB for actually understanding what a car is doing. But with Moza wheels the key thing is removing high hz FFB with the equalizer is the most effective way to maintain signal and information from the game whalst removing noise and redoclus high frequency vibrations that only make sense of you want to simulate selotaping electric toothbrushes to your wheel.

[@rickyspanish4792]

yeah second that ken, I don't really mind a bit of high freq noise for that extra immersion

[@scottwoodtraining]

Agreed! I can feel the 'rubberiness' he speaks up for the details just gone completely for me. I've been running this setup for 3 years now and apparently I've been running the base FFB curve at a pretty steep S shape also. Guess different strokes.

[@patrick247two]

This information mirrors my experience. 100Hz is for the fish.

[@coreyturner2610]

hey gamermuscle! ive currently got the r9 and feel its not powerful enough, is the r12 any different such as smoother or just stronger?

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

R12 will just be a bit stronger than R9 I imagine its not a monumental difference , I can't remember off the top of my head but - To be honest lots of sims have very lacking dynamics in the FFB for low frequency - ACC , LMU , no wheel can fix that an R9 should be more than good enough to give a great range of forces for whats going on and all the wheels even low end DD's should do vibrations / anything over 40hz just fine. You do find with 12nm+ wheel bases that you get nicer dynamics for if you drive higher downforce cars or cars with more subtle FFB and you get more range before clipping , personally I think 12 or so NM with a nice DD is a really good sweet spot for detail across most cars you would ever drive.

[@Picks_Productions]

I had to change the ffb curve on my r12 to enjoy it. I kept the line linear, but moved it all left. Felt too weak and unresponsive in the initial turn.

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

You really shouldn't have to do that as it's effectively just messing with the linearity of the game's FFB signal. By all means do whatever you want but you should be feeling all a games detail on a 12NM wheel base with basic settings. And as I say just filtering away or reducing some of the high hz vibrations is a great way to make things feel very natural and precise without losing game details.

[@Picks_Productions]

@ they wouldn’t put the settings there if they weren’t supposed to be messed with 😉. No other setting gives me the feel I’m after.

[@PaoloCesana]

Thx, will check carefull the video!Unfortunatelly Moza is starting to mess up recent firmware update......first was the CRP Pedals where wasn't calibrating correctly and now the R5 base where the wheel spin offcenter. I hope they put it togheter because other then be heavily invested into it I really think they have great product. They just need more testing on their software!

[@PaoloCesana]

I tested and for LMU where I get lot of nonsense FFB it did improve a lot. I need to keep the 60Hz to 60% otherwise I start losing the Kerbs. Great job!

[@captainunderpants200]

Best result I got in AC was turning on 'Output real steering forces to wheel' to 'on' in FFB Tweaks in CM.

[@jekaufo]

super useful, thank you!

[@viatrufka]

Interesting. I'm gonna give it a try

[@alexsnemos]

same as using the Q factor in simucube

[@splatracer7726]

Very interesting ‘boring’ vid. Thanks.

[@pawelkusmierek109]

Why no control at 5 Hz? I suspect that this EQ is implemented as an FFT filter. Our perception of frequences (and more or less the spacing of frequencies in Moza (and audio) equalizers) is logarithmic. E.g. the step from 25 to 50 Hz feels identical to the step from 50 to 100 Hz. FFT is linear, the step from 25 to 50 Hz is the same as 50 to 75. So basically FFT is always too detailed at high frequencies and never detailed enough at low frequencies. To make it detailed there and thus have control over the very low end, the FFT window needs to be made very long, i.e., be calculated over many samples. This will totally overdo the detail at the high end (which is fine) and will require more computing power (which may be fine), but that's OK in many application. However it is not really feasible in a real-time application like FFB. Because to compute the response over a long chunk of samples the filter has to wait until it has received the last of those samples. That introduces delay. And we don't want to feel the tires losing grip a second after they do. By the way I am also on R12 and KS, and I like them both! No displays on the wheel but they are pointless for a VR racer like me. The only thing I hate are the tiny joysticks, they are too flimsy and imprecise. Two out of three times when I want to do "up" I get "up"+"left" or "up"+"right". They cannot be used for anything critical; I use them to operate iRacing black boxes and still I get annoyed by them quite often.

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

Makes sense thanks for info ☕👍 To be honest for a FFB EQ you don't ever really want to remove low frequency information only higher so it's not really an issue. The thing would be to magnify maybe low frequency but then that causes issues and to be honest I think it's just down to sims to actually put out a better signal in first place / have more detail for grip fall off. In the end you can't magically filter shit FFB to be good lol The only other option would be constructive FFB / telemetry generated FFB to make new FFB for where it's missing with the sim. But even this had issues if a sims physics are shit you cant magically make them good with FFB. I have found the better the FFB though the more it highlights the underlying physics of a game more clearly.

[@pawelkusmierek109]

@@GamerMuscleVideos yeah it's just somewhere in the beginning of the video I think you wondered why no control at low frequencies. This was obviously a rhetorical question to give you a segue to changing the high end, but I am the kind of person who can't read the room, latches on to something they should not, and gives an overcomplicated and unneeded answer to a rhetorical question. Or provides totally unnecessary and irrelevant information. Once I was running a biomedical experiment with a buddy, and informed him that the standard glideslope for landing aircraft is 3 degrees, but rarely there are deviations due to obstructions like 5.5 degrees at the London City Airport when approaching from the west. Hey, did I just give I a piece if unnecessary and irrelevant information about my past? This is why I have no friends.

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

Nah it's good to know I enjoy thinking about things and then understanding them incorrectly over and over again until something makes sense but probably still doesn't 🤣.

[@pawelkusmierek109]

@@GamerMuscleVideos 😆🤣😆

[@starfox_wr-45e93]

GM is built like "The Most Powerful Brick Pit House Setting"

[@reviewforthetube6485]

If I have any frequncy settings I always leave no limit if I can. Also idc what real vs none feels like in competitive sim racing. I want every single thing im supposed to be told by the title im playing. If it has infromation im keeping it. The same with oscillations i dont iron them out but im lucky because asetek does look like it moves wildly but the actual oscillations are prettt controlled. I can take my hands off and sure it rocks a bit never so much so that the cars unctrolled. Acc def has some extra noise and some freqeuncies that go a bit crazy but I dont mind em. I can set it to 2200 but i have it at no limit so technically I should be able to feel whatever the title has to offer. Luckily it may make some noise and feel som grain at times but nothing insanely annoying. Only way i can hear it is if i turn all sound off and even then its not that loud. But I will say this the csr shoupd be easier to drive and for me i eant it to practically correct itself tell me what's going on and I react with it. Not me forcing it or missing details I shouldn't be missing by trying to man handle it. So I di like an active wheel but I have an active brain 😉.

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

Oscillations will be down to low frequencies sub 20hz and things happening at the centre of the wheel and then aspects of usb latency, inertia and a bunch of other things - regardless if a person is not running insane high ffb and holding into a wheel then oscillations should really be a non issue , with higher strength FFB settings then people can look at other settings to stop crazy oscillations happening , if that's an issue for them ( damper ect) As for stuff over 70hz with Moza wheels this is litrally vibrations that will feel like a toothbrush or grain a buzz rather than actual information of any value to a driver , if a person is using a larger wheel on the base they might not notice it so much but the lighter and smaller the wheel the more these high frequency buzz vibrations or overly grainy vibrations and largely noise will be felt and for most people will feel very artificial. - Also worth saying even with higher hz reduced on moza things like track mumps , track texture , abs , curbs , lol super tiny details will all come through the wheel more than fine.

[@reviewforthetube6485]

@GamerMuscleVideos makes sense, for me i don't have to do much to my wheelbase to feel fully connected. Slip angle, edge of grip, suspension overall etc. All felt amazingly well and super immediate. Like I was saying it practically does everything itself. I listen to what its telling me and make adjustments based on what I feel. But I am running the 27nm asetek invicta. Not hard to make it feel good and def not hard to feel fully connected to the car. Of course doesn't matter that it's 27nm ain't like I'm utilizing it that way lol Like when I ran my simagic ultimate. Yes its a great wheelbase and feels amazingly rich. But I and a big problem where when it would slip or lose grip it was like i was having to guess where grip was again or guess how to correct it. Wasnt telling me what the car was doing. Didn't matter what I did. Then If I raised certain settings that helped. It would be way to heavy on the initial turn in then when it slipped or when you would get to that edge of grip it would have a habbit of staying looser or getting stuck sideways instwad of catching itself or allowing me to correct the loss. So yeah I guess since I don't have to deal with that anymore I've gotten used to a wheelbase that doesn't take much adjustments to give me what I need to maximize my own performance on what I feel.

[@calinpetrescu9128]

How do know how I want my ffb to feel?

[@reviewforthetube6485]

As he said you test things. Its preference. I mean you could do raw tunr most filters off and just raise frequencies like crazy and see everything it has to offer and then see what you like from there lol.

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

Most people want to feel what the car is doing without the wheel then doing crazy stuff , Basically FFB should almost always if not always make a car easier to drive. You should feel the load of the wheel increase and decrease based on how much grip the tires have , and then have a nice bit of rumble for cubs , track bumps and details and some rumble for things like ABS or wheels locking up or skipping. At a more basic level more grip more downforce = stronger FFB , less grip less downforce = lighter FFB ( not quite that simple but as a general rule that's not a bad way of thinking about it)

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

@@reviewforthetube6485 Well there is preference , but there is also a maximal way to set up a wheel to feel tire grip and grip changes which would generally be considered the most valuable thing for a player to have to then be able to drive a car as best possible. IE if a person slapped on ton of damper or filtered everything to death it would be really smooth and feel like some road cars power steering ffb but you aint going to feel what the car is actually doing in the video game lol.

[@calinpetrescu9128]

@@GamerMuscleVideos yes

[@reviewforthetube6485]

@GamerMuscleVideos true but him being so new clearly not knowing what to feel for. His priority should be to find what feels best to him so he can enjoy. Newer people worry way to much about every little thing and it can make or break them staying on the hobby. Those first few months should absolutely be about having fun and liking what you feel. Then you can dive into everything else.

[@yorha2j525]

I run an R9 and use the same ffb equalizer settings except I think 40hz at 80% and 60hz at 80% feels way better

[@ELMASQUELAMONTA]

The curve feature is the best feature the the pit house you need to spend time with and it transform The ffb you just have to take your time with it

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

Yah it's not bad the problem is 1) It can't fix a games core FFB 2) It can't funimentally add detail that's not there 3) A sims fundamental FFB should be fine without messing with it , if it's not then there is normally something wrong with the game 4) even very small changes can introduce some subtle clipping in weard ways 5) it makes the signal non linear from the sim and can cause a bunch of wonky effects 6) it can cause some really weird wheel behavior even with subtle changes 7) basic game FFB is largely dependent on a games core physics and the nature of a games FFB is often just a reflection of a games physics which are often a bit broken and that's what you feel in FFB lol.

[@ELMASQUELAMONTA]

@ I can share my settings to you if you like to try them

[@scottwoodtraining]

I never realized how steep of a S shape I've been running for YEARS.

[@eetuli85]

i was hoping for a magic switch to fix LMU ffb

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

Nah all you can do is remove top end vibrations noise in Moza with game on 0 filter that gets most detail less noise from LMU. LMU itself doesn't have much if any dynamic range for the tires at low hz to describe the tire slip and grip The only way to fix LMU would be for the developer to change how the games FFB works , or to use some sort of telemetry based ffb on a device that generates more detailed FFB detail from something else. To be honest a racing sim should feel absurdly detailed on a 12Nm wheel base if it doesn't then the lower end wheels that most people own stand no chance at all.

[@eetuli85]

@GamerMuscleVideos yes exactly my interpretation of LMU ffb, it's just lacking in some areas. It doesn't translate what the rear is doing which can and will cause very weird feeling spins and slow slides, especially in slow corners. Custom ffb curve helped a little bit but it's not a fix really. And it comes with drawbacks that forced me to use some smoothing in the game. Apparently people are now fiddling with the ffb json files and there's options that were removed in the UI. Might give that a go, see if i can find the rear through the ffb. It's not enjoyable to me atm, doesn't feel connected or engaged like in ams2 or acc even.

[@Nick72c]

I have come to think this must be very subjective. After a couple of years of fiddling with the Moza PitHouse I’ve landed on a FFB curve that feels perfect to me in iRacing - but everyone seems to come up with something unique to themselves 🤷🏻‍♂️ Mine: 10hz(20%), 15hz(80%), 25hz(20%), 40hz(80%), 60hz(60%), 100hz (0%)

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

To be honest it's down to the simulator to produce the ffb and that's 99% of the FFB So unless a sim has more customizable fundamental FFB like project cars 2 / AMS2 Or a wheel has telemetry driven FFB for things like understeer , car rotation or G-load like an acuforce wheel does with simexperance software. Then there is only so much the FFB can really be filtered and mostly its just a case of people filtering out noise in high frequency or adding some damper to stop a wheel being overactive or too lose. It's such a same most racing sims FFB is so bad and also that the physics are still a bit lacking with many of the sims , as we have had the tech for amazing informative and very detailed FFB for decades.

[@Nick72c]

@ Agreed. When I said perfect I should have really said extracts the most possible out of iRacing’s confused FFB. For me that’s dialling down the awful over amplified road texture, accepting there is virtually no tyre model, and let it express the weight balance as that’s the only thing it does well.

[@TheGabberworld]

yeah, but funny thing is DirectX FFB does not work based with Hz, it works based of data what send out and it's not the Hz self, and usually that data starts with 0 and ends with 10k strength

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

Yah that's a whole bag of cats 🤣 I believe unless I'm mistaken the ultimate solution would be to send the actual position a wheel should be to the wheel base. Then there are probably a whole host of other specific things that could be done but it's way past my knowledge base 😆.

[@Pulecocz]

Do Fanatec next, pretty please?

[@kevdonnelly]

3:15

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

I also make this noise when I'm waiting for the kettle to boil.

[@tehsimo]

I had to do this in my first 5 minutes of AC, as it was like having my hand fizzed to death

[@smithp573]

I asked my missus for her opinion. She says 5 hz or less is basically motorboating.

[@kridedude]

"game changer"

[@crawfordbrown75]

Now do simagic I want to see how washed your opinions truly are ahahahaha

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

I'm more washed than a vintage car

[@RowdyBurnz]

Is this the same as ffb frequency in simagic simpro?

[@spraynardkruger6426]

Washed opinions?

[@spraynardkruger6426]

Will experiment with my r12. Thank you. Unsubbed.

[@ettorebugatti6846]

Free your Force Feedback! Freeedooom!

[@Kellerw2000]

I'm sorry but this is incorrect. The most powerful setting is the dark mode user interface option.

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

Light mode is how I get my vitamin D

[@InsurgeGaming]

This is the wrong understanding of how equalizers work. You're using the equalizer to adjust for the signal the sim puts out. The 100hz slider is going to adjust how fast your wheel is going to put force out when you first hit something. Iracing does not go above 60hz but if you turn 100 hz slider down you will still notice that all the transient hits and jolts are going to be removed. Effectively dampening the wheel. You should treat the 100hz slider as such. It's for games with higher ffb frequencies where you can unrealisticly feel every bit of track as if the tyres where made out of metal. As they are designed to do so to give the user as much information they need for their individual wheelbase. Tldr: treat the 100hz slider as a "hardness" setting for the tyres. If the game feels like the tyres are made out of solid metal rather than rubber then soften the wheelbase up by turning the high frequencies down.

[@GamerMuscleVideos]

I don't neccercerely disagree with the gist of what you are saying , however I think most people understood the video and the video clearly explains what the setting does its end result and why a person would use it. Your comment largely seems like you are taking a semantic issue. End of the day all that matters is reducing the high end of the Moza software EQ will remove unrealistic toothbrush vibrations without losing other details ( or losing other details less) as you might with the global damper setting or an in game smoothing setting. Thinking of it as a "hardness" setting does not really work due to the nature of the noise and vibrations that will come from the FFB wheel , describing it as a hardness setting I would argue would just confuse people more , though I understand what you are getting at lots of people will then conflate what you are saying with the actual physics of a tire rather than the aspects of FFB. I guess you could say it affects how "sharp" the ffb signal is but again because of the nature of vibrations and noise and all the different games ffb implementation and how things actually pan out in practice this does not really help so much. I also tend to be very sceptical of software presentation of things for all I Care the equalizer could be called the bishbobblop lol and could be operating nothing like an actual equalizer or also be largely broken.. what I do is test things and see what the results are. ( time and time again with input devices or software in general things don't work as they are meant to or in a logical way) In regards to me saying that "low frequency ffb is where the detail is and that's most important" I cannot think of a better way of explaining to people the drawn out force changes that represent tire grip are what really matter to drive from and that vibrations or higher frequency forces are great for immersion still have a place but are not really what matters for driving/ balancing a car or understanding what its doing or going to do.

[@apocalypticweasel9078]

I run all mine at 0

[@GeekFurious]

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