MY FIRST TIME Using 3D RESIN PRINTER (ELEGOO MARS)

[@Eener1000]

Cool to see more people use these things. People have commented below I'm sure, but it is good to repeat: Wear gloves and goggles when doing this and have good ventilation. This resin is not a childstoy. I am sure it will get developed further, but right now it still is something to be very careful with. This kind of stuff can build up reactions with exposure to it. It is great stuff and not something to be afraid of, but be safe when using this. From what I hear, it is better to use nitrile gloves instead of latex

[@alex-simpson]

Just a couple of pointers from a seasoned 3d printer (Anycubic Photon S). You can compensate for any slop in your setup by spraying a little PTFE spray on your film (both sides) before fitting and filling the tray. It stops lower quality resins from curing onto the PFE and ripping a hole in it! Also, don't be tempted by "low viscosity" resins. They produce god-awful prints and end up very brittle after curing. My favourite is the flesh-coloured Anycubic resin - it ain't cheap but it's really reliable and much easier to trim than the cheaper ones. That's what I used for my recent full print of Magnus the Red (send me a message if you want the STL for him!) And he came out amazing. Gonna be uploading a video of the process soonish.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Hi Luke. Since you were wearing gloves already, I feel it’s important to tell you to be wearing gloves. Just thought you should know. You need to wear gloves.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

full body condom mate

[@potatojz38]

@@GeekGamingScenics depending on your workflow, like for me example of a 3D printed Mount that holds the plate onto my container of denatured alcohol. so I open up my printer unscrew the plate attached my Mount put it in the container let it soak for a few minutes. Set it down on a microfiber cloth. Then use a razor blade to remove the print. No gloves. Everything I touch during that process is clean. Technically once it's been cleaned off in the alcohol it is safe to handle by bare hand. Only wear gloves to stir the resin in the vat before a print or if I have to drain the vat if there was a failure. The resin can stay in the vat. I have for 10months same with the majority of users. You ideally want to drain your vat as little as possible to prevent scratching the fep and wasting resin. Just make sure it's out of the sun. One user printed outside in the sun and the dome completely block the UV.

[@potatojz38]

@@GeekGamingScenics but for gloves use those kitchen reusable ones. Saves SO many and just rinse in your second bath and wipe clean with a micro fiber. Have a designated area for your printer and cleaning station. I have dedicated microfibers that I know have come in contact with resin. And only use for that. Leave them in the sun to cure anything on them and use only for the printer. No need to waste paper towels plus the alcohol evaporates on its own. If you're planning on using lots of different colours. Having multiple vats can definitely come in handy.

[@KayoMichiels]

@@GeekGamingScenics Yeah, they are really important: if you ever get into contact with uncured resin, WASH OFF IMMEDIATELY!! At first you don't notice, but after a while you'll start to itch and if it's worse.. you'll get a allergic reaction with blisters... (because of the ingredients, your body will after more and more exposure... react more and more)

[@bikinibandit2398]

For the love of Gork, lower the resolution when you do the 'speak to the camera' shots. I'm trying the maintain my eye-sight in spite of painting tiny soldiers.

[@MoragTong_]

Welcome to the world of never painting fast enough!

[@TheMorrigan31]

Oh man you too! God all you mini painters uploading 3d printing videos just teasing me while I wait for the elegoo mars pro to come out... Great video mate, can't wait to get my hands on one myself soon

[@brett3366]

For better supports, try using PrusaSlicer. You can open your model in PrusaSlicer, right click> Optimize Orientation to calculate the "best" orientation, then use their Auto Support feature. The Prusa Slicer auto supports are much better than Chitubox auto supports. You can also go into Print Settings > Pad and change the Pad Wall Slope to 45 degrees to make it easier to scrape off the bed later. Once you've supported your model, you can go to File > Export > Export Plate as STL Including Supports, then reopen that file in Chitubox to slice to your settings. Hope that helps!

[@mistletoemonkey]

So helpful, thank you so much for showing us all of the struggles and the nerves. It's nice to know you're not alone when you try these new things and feel panicky.

[@hubismaximus]

Great video, excited to see what you do with it! About switching resins, I'd give two reasons to ever want to change: transparency and strength. With clear resins I've found better performance printing thicker solid objects, because the UV light will penetrate past the outer layer when you are post-curing. If you are just doing small objects then it's probably not much of a concern. Meanwhile, you may find that the resin models can get to be a little brittle (especially when dealing with thinner features). One thing you will find is that there are really a TON of resins out there with very different mechanical properties -- resins which are harder and more durable (look for "ABS-like"), resins that have more flexibility akin too the Reaper Bones material, even resins that come close to silicone rubber. One thing I have seen a couple people who print and sell minis on ebay is using a blend of two resins together -- something 80% standard resin (like the blue you used here) and 20% of a strong / flexible resin ("Tenacious" resin is the brand name I see most common). I've tried the blend and it seems like it adds a fair bit of durability to the piece without sacrificing any detail. While I've found it's a lot harder to get sharp details from the ABS resin, one thing I've started doing is building small jigs on my computer and printing them in ABS. With a little research I learned that people have successfully printed ink stamps, so one thing I want to try is printing off a few of those and using them instead of stencils for certain kinds of regular painted features. Cheers!

[@potatojz38]

Been 3d printing for 3 years now, welcome to the hobby. Looking forward to seeing you adding this to your work and videos

[@robinhood5627]

I have literally just bought one of these printers 5 mins ago, should arrive on monday. I am super excited to see what i can do with it :)

[@jamie69murphy]

robin hood I was looking at one on Amazon earlier, after watching BMC’s video.

[@robinhood5627]

@@jamie69murphy £229? Same :)

[@JabberGulch]

@@robinhood5627 so how have you liked it so far?

[@KillerofGods]

How'd you like it?

[@robinhood5627]

@@KillerofGods brilliant. Best gadget i ever bought. The models i print are literally as good quality as if i had bought them from a store. Perfect.

[@Nathan1975Liggy]

Awesome video I have an ender 3 FDM Printer but have just ordered a elegoo mars pro resin printer to go with it. I mostly make project boxes for electronics projects and knobs and stuff. Like you I am a complete newbe to resin printing so this video was very informative.

[@AslanAtreyu]

Hi Luke, I really appreciate your humble approach to this subject. I'm getting a resin printer later this year and its helpful to know the little things like the first layers take longer to cure. Keep up the good work!

[@aaronbono4688]

All these KZbinrs make this process look so simple but when you get to really thinking about it I think what Luke is experiencing is exactly reality. I have been reluctant to buy a printer because I know what a nightmare it's going to be to learn to use it and I'm afraid of breaking an expensive piece of equipment the first time I use it. I think you're showing exactly why my concerns are legitimate.

[@aaronbono4688]

@@GeekGamingScenics Yes and I thank you for that. Everybody keeps showing how easy it is and I know it's not easy. At least not at first.

[@richardwilson2621]

Yes you are right 3d printers are a bit complicated until you learn how to use them . Last year I bought the creality resin printer and used I ran it day and night I learned a lot then I bought another one and I ran the both of them day and night . I watched a ton of KZbin videos on how to change the fep sheet , and the uv screen. Overall everything is easy about these machines just be patient. This year I sold the both of the creality resin printers and bought the peopoly phenom because of the build size . These machines are do it yourself I had to go inside my new phenom and replace the uv circuit board and stepper board because the registration square wouldn't show up. And yes I got it back running again. You have to also have to learn new software (chitubox) to process your models . It's so easy once you get started like I said there's a ton of KZbin videos out there and also help groups on Facebook to help with whatever problem you may be having right on down to the particular machine

[@aaronbono4688]

@@richardwilson2621 so I actually bought a 3D printer shortly after I posted this and I've been using it a lot, I have hundreds of miniatures printed now. With this experience I have to say that you have to pour hundreds of hours into learning how to get the best out of these printers. I have run into numerous problems including buying the right miniatures, some are too big for the printer some are not supported and they don't exactly say that, some have to be hollowed out, every now and then you have to go in and edit and add your own supports, you have to figure out what resin to use because some are brittle and each resin has its own settings. I have spent so much time on the 3D printing that I've had no time to do terrain or paint. And I am still feeling like somewhat of a beginner because some problems I still can't figure out how to fix. 3D printing is definitely a huge hobby in of itself. If I weren't so damn stubborn and refused to be defeated by a project I take on I would have given up on this long ago. Nowadays I print occasionally because I'm trying to carve out time for other things and frankly I don't enjoy it so much anymore.

[@richardwilson2621]

Well I wish you had a better experience with 3d printing . I love it and addicted to it . I almost fell out of love when I bought the creality cr10 that dam machine literally fought me back like Bruce Lee I sold it and bought my peopoly phenom l went back to resin. Good luck in all your endeavors.

[@tims5298]

Dude it's so easy to print the suports are the hardest part but work from plate up and add where needed

[@paradoxical7810]

Hey Luke, I recently got my 3D printer as well (thanks Santa!) one thing that saved me a ton of time was the trick of dunking the model in some hot water (or tea water) for 10 seconds or so after rinsing it with IPA. This makes the resin slightly rubbery which allows you to rip off the supports super easily and also lower the risk of chipping on your models. You can check out 3DPrintingPro on KZbin, he has a video on it where he explains his process for cleaning.

[@potatojz38]

I do that all the time. Just make sure the print is fully and properly cleaned before running under warm water as to not contaminate the water system if using a tap.

[@MrVuvuzaala]

I know nothing at all about 3d printing; it's a real mind-bender for an old codger like me! I do, however, know a bit about real ale and cannot understand why you suggest using India Pale Ale (IPA) for rinsing them? :D

[@Dracus40k]

My wife got me a Ender-5 for Christmas and I am having a blast with it! I just experienced my first clog due to the temperature being off and ordered some replacement parts. I am already looking into resin printers now.

[@countzero1136]

The Elegoo Mars really is an awesome machine. Hard to believe how much this technology has come down in price in the last couple of years. I've been using FDM printers for over 7 years for making larger terrain pieces but for actual miniatures, resin is the way to go. Yes it's a lot messier than FDM and the cleanup process needs to be handled more carefully, but it's still a lot more fun than spending hours sanding PLA. Horses for courses really - Both technologies have their uses in the hobby, but you can't beat resin for fine detail, and the Mars is a superb, solidly-built piece of kit. Its nearest rival, the Anycubic Photon has a less powerful UV lamp (25W whereas the Mars is 40W) and thus takes a tad longer to expose each layer, meaning that the same print will take longer on the Photon. (Note that the newer Photon S also has a 40W lamp and so prints faster than the earlier version but I have to say that I looked at it and it lacks the build quality of the Mars. A quick word on the resin - Most suppliers sell it by weight, not volume (ie. 1 Kilogram rather than 1 Litre - Be aware that standard photopolymer resins have a density of around 1.1g/ml, meaning that 1Kg in weight is around 900ml volume, not 1 litre as many people believe (I see people online all the time referring to resin supplies as 1 lite, 500ml or 250ml, whereas in reality the actual volume is around 10% less than the weight) Also the ChituBox software does seem to use a fair bit of resin to generate its supports (and as Luke pointed out, doesn't always get them spot-on), so, as with FDM, it's always better to try to get models that don't need supports - While this is not always possible, it's something to bear in mind if you're designing your own minis from the ground up. (making the models multi-part is a good way to avoid having to use supports but I'll be the first to admit that this can be a royal pain at the design stage, although there are several programs out there that can cut up models for easier printing, such as Netfabb Studio and others. Many of these are free and although mostly designed for FDM printing, they work just fine generating STL files for sending to Chitubox How does resin printing compare with FDM? Well if you're after great fine detail, then resin will knock it out of the park. Yes it's more mess, more cleanup, post-processing (washing, UV curing etc) and it's also more expensive, though the cost of resin is coming down as more and more people get into this stuff. The LCD exposure mask in the printer is also a consumable item - the UV fades it over time making it less effective (fuzzy edges on your prints etc) and the FEP film that forms the bottom of the resin tank is also affected over time and is easily scratched and/or punctured. All of these parts are easy to get replacements for at reasonable prices. One particular note on the Mars - it's a great idea to put a strip of making tape over the left and right edges of the LCD screen under the resin tank, as this will give a few microns clearance so it's harder to scratch the LCD screen when removing and replacing the tank.

[@TimMcTim1888]

Great info!

[@zoejmc6230]

I bought this printer for my boyfriend for Christmas this year. He’s very techy and loves to play with new technology… but I am nervous about how complicated this seems… he’s not a follow instructions and safety precautions type of person, more of a dive in head first and see how it goes. So I think I will make him watch a few videos before using.

[@jeffreykeffer4352]

I got the Elegoo Mars about 2 weeks ago , One of the things you can do to speed up print times is lay the model down inside of Chitubox during your set up to slice ... a model that stands say 5 inches tall is only about an inch wide ... because the printer cures with UV it done matter how the model is orientated laying it down will give you the same detail but some times cut the layers down and a 1000 layer model of course will take longer than a 250 layer model

[@jeffreykeffer4352]

@@GeekGamingScenics iv had no issue just make sure you ad your own supports ... I will drop a couple of my Mechs onto the Facebook page for you to take a look at

[@derpimusmaximus8815]

@@GeekGamingScenics It can also be worth rotating the models in chitubox to get better placement on supports.

[@joshuacastilaw7461]

Definitely more! I love my Mars! I've had one for several months and it's amazing. The hardest part really is you'll out print your painting(well maybe you won't). I probably have 2-3 dozen unpainted minis... oops. Some print and paint tutorials would be killer!

[@matpearson9711]

Congratulations on the successful first prints and Welcome to the 3d printing club! I love my Mars, I'm always designing and printing things it's very addicting. I broke one of the rooks by hand after breaking the crappy plastic scraper too! 😂 Thank you for all the great content you provide, very informative and entertaining.

[@ReluctantLightningForge]

Thanks for the video! You can adjust the exposure time to fine tune the detail in the print, but it is touchy. If you have too short of an exposure time, the the supports and prints will fail and if you go too long, then you loose detail but the prints will be stronger.

[@dalimorse364]

Cleanup and support removal seems like a pain at the beginning, but it's not that bad. I tend to swish about a bit in IPA then run it under a hot tap. You'll then be able to peel the supports off without much effort. Also, check out the support settings from 3DPrintingPro on KZbin. They are a load better than the stock settings!

[@StevesSmallWorld]

I use tecnology outlet resins in the uk as a good price and keep well in the vat. Bigest tip with supports is you cant print in thin air so look at the model in the slicer from the bottom side and go through the layers to you find a area printing not connected to the rest of the print and add a support. You will find supports easier to remove when fully cured , I normally iso wash them then clean water rinse, shake them off and UV bump them . I tend to leave for 24hrs in the sunlight after before removing supports. To remove supports I tend to cut them away from the model to clear the bulk , cut any cross joins then just bend them off. Make sure you support things like fingers and teeth when snapping them off.

[@Straw_Hat_Gamer]

I've just gotten the Mars 2 today and have printed those same files. First time printing resin, it went perfectly fine like the instructions showed. I got very clean prints from it, didn't use the plastic scraper, I used the metal one, IDK if the Mars 1 came with one but it was way easier. Nice video.

[@HollowedCrow]

Awesome man! Was eyeing the mars 2 for myself as well. I think i'm for sure going to go with that printer

[@NatesMiniatures]

Enjoyed the 3D printing video, I can only imagine what you will do with this making all the terrain bits :O

[@DarkDekieon]

I am sure you know this by now, since it has been 9 months since this video. However, I will put the information here for others who do not know. That plastic scraper received isn't for removing the prints from the build plate, it is for when you are putting the liquid resin back into the container, you will use it to lightly scrape the plastic film that makes up the bottom of the resin basin. You should have received a sharpened putty knife in your Elegoo Mars kit, which is what is used to remove the prints from the build plate. If you didn't get one in your kit, then purchase one from a hardware store, and get it sharpened so you do have one. This is a great printer for it's price. I have this exact model, and love it.

[@thedungeondelver]

Wow! So in a perfect universe, I'd get a 3d PLA printer to do dungeon walls, and one of these for miniatures. The dungeons (& other terrain) can be rougher, so you can print more, quicker, and for detailed character minis you'd have your resin printer. Man, that's cool.

[@HighbridgeD]

Just came across your channel and loving your humility. I received my own Elegoo Mars two days ago and just wanted to randomly see what others' experiences have been. Thanks for sharing!

[@HighbridgeD]

@@GeekGamingScenics Might have been something lost in translation there. Wasn't being sarcastic, I really do think you're a humble guy! I know with this being the 'net we're all supposed to be sarcastic so and sos, but yeah, love what I saw in the video. Please continue doing what you do! 8)

[@ArtSurroundsYouAll]

I have had an Elegoo Mars for 6 months and its awesome, I have a load of tips and tricks and also I can see some of the errors you made which is easily done my friend. Also I have got loads of advice when it comes to cleaning the print which will save you a fortune in chemicals and mess!..will message you on FB. This is a fantastic resin printer especially for the price, I do want to get a bigger resin printer soon but the big models but for my needs at the moment this is incredible, especially foe the detail.

[@ArtSurroundsYouAll]

@Joel Best Of course, no problem, if I don't answer straight away it's only because I'm home schooling today, mind bending...

[@TheMrFishnDucks]

Gotta be careful with those resins some maybe not have a smell but they are still toxic. Your first prints turned out amazing. Nice video. Keep up the good work.

[@TheMiniJunkie]

I’m super addicted to 3D printing minis and terrain. Buddy: wear nitrile gloves and eye protection, this resin is no joke in terms of toxicity. Also I tend to fill the vat almost 2/3 without issues. Oh, I see you put on gloves partway through :) My prints are much easier to take off the plate - you can mess around with less bottom layers and shorter cure time for that.

[@daveclark7924]

If you want a bit of extra quality out of the mini's all you can really do is to go to the printer settings in the slicer and set the layer height to a bit smaller value. eg. change layer height (z axis step value) from probably 0.05mm to 0.03mm. Anything else is tinkering with the exposure times but that is different for every resin.

[@daveclark7924]

@@GeekGamingScenics The other option is to rescale in something like blender. It is better at keeping the poly count, surface details, of the model than a slicer. You also have a sculpt mode where you can use the pinch tool to make edges and recesses slightly sharper.

[@smsdot]

Just got my first resin printer and I loved watching this video!

[@euansmith3699]

That pickle jar looks like a good basis for a couple of sci-fi buildings, in the Star Wars Imperial Style, or for Infinity. I expect to see some 3D printed Lukes Aps ear spacers in future videos.

[@HowleRWolF01]

Just found your video, one of the best out there. So nice to see an honest first attempt at something like this, so now I have to pick a printer. Thanks for taking the time to make this video, I know they take a lot of behind the scenes effort 👍👍

[@TimePortalToys]

Thanks for a great video. Just had one of these arrive today so I too am a novice with resin printing. This video taught me everything I needed to know to get going. Nice one. 👍🏻

[@seangere9698]

That's because the ones from America are a tuperwear brand and that company is extremely expensive even in America when brand new. Though you can generally find them at flea markets/swap meets for almost nothing. I'm sure it's the same on Facebook marketplace or similar in the US. Not sure on the last as I moved to Germany years before FBMP was a thing. An easy way to make your own cure box if you're doing things larger then a miniature is make a wooden box (size depends on what you want to cure) get five mirrors and use silicone to glue the mirrors to the inside surfaces of the box, get a couple of small tube light fixtures and glue them to the top mirror. Get some black light UV strip bulbs and you're good to go once all the silicone is fully cured.

[@StarshipsSteel]

Just got a Mars before xmas. Your rooks came out better. A great addition to my arsenal.

[@MrBizteck]

Other people have preety cool ideas !!! 99% of the stuff off my fdm printer are thingiverse.

[@rioploon]

Another nice tool in your arsenal. The quality is good enough now that the only thing holding anyone back is getting the 'right' 3d file in the detail you would want.

[@trashdragonhobbies9302]

I appreciate you showing your mistakes. Every time I print, there are loads of issues. Glad to know I am not the only one :)

[@charles.in.charge]

Welcome to resin life, hope you have lots of shelf space 😂

[@TheGUFGamer]

This makes me glad I was not the only one to go through these pains

[@searle_harbour]

sick video mate, some very nice results their!

[@therealDonMac]

I've been using an Ender3 for a couple years, then got a Sparkmaker resin printer last summer. It was unimpressive. I just got an Elegoo Mars this last Monday and it is awesome! Amazing quality from that thing.

[@Waddywoos360]

Do you find yourself still using the Ender3? I have bought a Photon as my first printer and really like it for the small things but seeing all the free terrain files around I kinda wish I had a bigger filament printer too

[@denisg8818]

A very honest video. Always fun to learn a new thing

[@robcarroll42]

Pro Tip - (Not me, I learned it from someone else) Once you have it cleaned in iso put it under tap water Hot tap water. As hot as your hand can stand. Does not take much but makes the supports come off by hand 99% of the time. Saves a ton of cleanup and makes most of your supports come off with a simple push of the finger nail.

[@MustContainMinis]

Great video. I have been wanting to get into 3D printing for a while now. Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@bitzbox]

Those miniatures came out beautifully! Can't wait to see how you will use this with your terrain projects

[@bz1128]

Love the video. Great to see you grow. Keep up the great work!

[@StevenCookFX]

According to the manufacture you are supposed to tilt the models at a 45 degree to prevent them from sticking too hard on the build plate and th prevent errors. You really need to go watch and read up on these printers to get quality prints.

[@leespiderpod]

Great video. I was gonna buy one but I think I'll wait another 5 years. I cant be bothered with cleaning supports when id rather get straight into painting

[@genesis83]

fyi .. the plastic scraper is actually supposed to be used for cleaning the vat after a failed print .. you click a button tat says vat clean and ten after applying slight pressure underneath use the plastic scraper to peel off the thin layer or cured resin

[@genesis83]

@@GeekGamingScenics all good .. but for new people getting into it i have seen alot of ppl starting at 70% support amount which will also kill any detail

[@TheTwitchyBrownGuy]

Judt got my elegoo mars 2 pro a week ago. When I levelled my plate I think I saw a KZbin short on how to do it easily, just set to home like usual, them push down on the plate with one hand (not too hard) while you tighten both screws, I've printed probably 12 models over 8 prints and haven't had a failure yet. *edit:* he just did this lol, I should watch the whole video I suppose

[@smtkelly]

I couldn't get mine to print parts that aren't warped. I was trying to print a spaceship kit (lots of flat parts) and the parts would twist not matter the supports. Nothing lined up no matter what i tried. a good example was a turret ring and it always came out oval-ish

[@xenoserum]

It looks good will have to see how you feel about it after a while or testing then do another vid as be nice to see the comparison. Price isn't too bad really, so want one for making my own mini display boards and bases.

[@TheMexicanSuperman1]

Great video! Very informative. Any suggestions on how to learn about supports?

[@alexhunt7810]

Thanks for the video Luke, really enjoyed the video.

[@claydud271]

great video ty for the honest starter guide

[@sillymonger]

Been thinking about getting one, but also thinking about all the unpainted minis i still have...

[@StarshipsSteel]

Do the unpainted minis stop you from buying new minis? :D

[@tinaprice4948]

@@StarshipsSteel NOPE!!! :)

[@colossalbigfoot256]

I do small figures 26-28mm so I’m really wanting to get a resin 3D. The Elgoo looks like a great printer. You should continue this by finishing the two characters you printed. Would really help to showcase the quality if they were finished in colors. Thanks for the info

[@potatojz38]

It's hard to tell forsure but it looked like a few you didn't fully clean all the uncured resin in some of the tiny details or possibly exposure off slightly but over all they look great. Look into denatured alcohol, I found it works better than isopropyl. Try brushing the models with a toothbrush to get everything all off. You can use an ultrasonic cleaner and have the alcohol in a glass jar or zip lock bag with the prints. Submerge the bag or jar in the ultrasonic filled with water. That is the safest method to use flammable liquids in an ultrasonic and it's much easier to cleanup. Try playing the the exposure by a second up and again a second below what you currently have. Use your own judgement and see if you notice more or less details and find the ideal exposure for that resin. The smell is over hyped, it's really mild, but elegoo and Anycubic have mild smells other brands can be stronger or have no scent at all really. But eleegoo is good for odor. I would recommend using prusa slicer for supporting the model it does a better job with auto and I find manual placement is easier as it hids all the towers of the support and other models on the plate. So your just adding dots. Much easier see and for tight spots. It does a good job not attaching into the print or scaring as much as chitubox does. Once supported export the STL WITh support and then just open and slice in chitubox to print.

[@Seanmauger]

Hey luke, I was just wondering if you would do a video on your Snow basing, and how to use it since is such a fine power, im unsure how it will react when I use it with your fast drying basing glue and i dont have any bases to spare and practice it on currently

[@Seanmauger]

Lukes Aps - Geek Gaming Scenics oh sweet, cheers

[@liamalford1782]

Luke (or anyone.) I'm.lookong at doing things like terrain with a 3d printer not minis so would this be no good? And when I say terrain I don't mean houses more like walls and broken pillows etc. (though if I could do building but in sections can it be done on this machine?) Thanks guys.

[@richardklug822]

In the US, your "pickle tub" is available in different sizes from Lock & Lock. The online retailer QVC sells them all the time.

[@HopelessChatter]

Got my eye on one of these, just need to persuade the other half... getting there... slowly...

[@WaifuTrashWeeb]

Its less about the smell and more about it being somewhat toxic so you might want to have the printer either in a well ventilated space or in another room where you don't spend all your time in as the fumes are toxic.

[@potatojz38]

Air quality testing of micro particles and vocs show it's well below 24-hour FDA-approved exposure levels during printing. Don't drink it and you'll be fine

[@WaifuTrashWeeb]

@@potatojz38 seen a few people complain about health issues. Better safe than sorry.

[@potatojz38]

@@WaifuTrashWeeb because those people have an allergic reaction because of a sensitivity to something in the resin. They need to consider wearing proper safety gear or no longer using the printer. Most people aren't sensitive to it. Just like most people are not sensitive to propylene glycol that is in vape juice. I myself am allergic and have to find all vegetable glycerin base. Or very low pg mix. If not I get a sore throat and major headache. You have to know what your health limits are. and make a smart decision if it's something that is safe for you to use or not. My sensitivity does not speak for everyone. Nor does the resin sensitivity.

[@potatojz38]

UV resin is nothing new. it's been around for decades and it's also what girls get on their finger when they get gel nails applied at the salon. Does it produce some toxic fumes? Yes, but it is well below safe exposure limits. Even during 24hr printing the levels are well below safe levels. Barely above background levels. I guarantee you Luke uses products that are far more toxic to his health

[@ericjohnson1289]

Buildings come out nicely

[@kiblams]

Great stuff Luke! Hope to buy a resin printer one of these days and can't wait to use my 3d modelling skills again.

[@senorian107]

Alright, with all the painting channels covering 3D printing at the same time I kinda feel the need to warn new people about some issues with safety, expectations, problems etc. First of all, safety. With resin (SLA) printers, touching uncured UV resin is a hazard. It is poisonous if eaten and toxic if touched. Also the resin can transfer pretty easy too, so anything you touch with the gloves is gonna have UV resin on it. It's pretty easy to end up with a bunch of tools and half a desk covered in a nearly invisible toxic substance. (CORRECTION: UV resin is not technically toxic, which is news to me seeing as every source under the sun calls it toxic. It is still allergy triggering and and can be new allergy causing amongst other things. Not good stuff basically) UV Light is also a risk to the eyes, both in the printing and curing stages. I'm not sure about the technicality of those risks but it is definitely worth looking into if you are thinking of getting a resin printer. The red cover for the printer is designed to block UV light and protect your eyes, so the cover should be left on the printer when printing. There are a few channels that have covered safety with resin printers. Maker's Muse and 3D Printing Nerd are some good ones. Next, expectations. While £200 might seem cheap for the ability to print stuff, that cost doesn't take into account the cost of the curing station, resin, technical failures and the disturbing amount of disposable gloves you are gonna need. Because of the almost guaranteed mess you will be making and stuff you will need, having a dedicated desk or table is ideal. And lastly, the cool factor. Nothing stays fun forever, eventually a 3D printer will just be a tool in your arsenal which would be fine if not for the process. if you can't think of a very good reason to have a printer in the long term then it probably isn't worth risking your health and money just to try it. I should probably mention that I don't actually own a resin printer... but I do have an FDM printer which is the far more common, safe and widely used kind of 3D printer that prints with plastic, and it's the kind of printer I actually would recommend trying. FDM printers don't inherently have the fine detail of the resin ones but after mine was set up, the process basically boils down to leveling the bed, pressing a button and getting cheap stuff. And now actually lastly, 3D printing is it's own hobby with it's own quirkes and problems. It ain't all sunshine and shiny models, it's actually mostly clogged nozzles and adhesion problems but it can be a wonderful ride if you haven't invested too much and you can get FDM printers for as cheap as £100 with no additional machines required. The quality isn't what most people consider to be Great, but printing minis for 4p is something truly special and with enough of an understanding of the machine and materials you are working with it is very possible to get high quality but low level of detail prints. Oh and if by chance you happen to have 3D modeling or sculpting knowledge. Just... just get a printer, being able to bring stuff into the real world makes digital 3D creation feel like the actual hobby it is.

[@Mockthenerd]

Great looking models with a substantial leap in cancer vs okay looking models. I'll stick to the FDM okay looking models.

[@Fitzilicious]

Just to clarify it, there is no hint of resin being cancerous or toxic, except for rumours spread by us users, that I found. I'm open for links. Even though it's not toxic it's highly allergy triggering and might even start an allergy against resin that you don't have till touching it. I'm not saying it's safer than stated, but as someone working in a lab with different substances that need a certain amount of safety I need to say that cancerous, toxic and allergy triggering and starting are completely different issues

[@FabsMS]

I looked at the MSDS of my Resins and its really not that bad, and at least for my resins the word "toxic" is just wrong. According to GHS standards most resins are classified as skin irritating and harmful if swallowed, as well as dangerous if it comes into eye contact. And its definitely no CMR material. Otherwise you would need a licence to buy that stuff, at least in my country. Maybe its because I studied chemistry but the handling of a resin printer is pretty easy if you work carefully and have the right setup. And thats no rocket science but a roll of paper towels, a sharp scraper, nitrile gloves (which I use forever because if you dont spill resin you dont need to bin them), safety goggles and a 2l airtight box filled with IPA. My UV curing station is my balcony and the sun.

[@TheDragonsreach]

Seno

[@Splatterpunk_OldNewYork]

Good talk. Dangerous stuff if you are in a hurry or just a clutz in general.

[@Luciander]

most ppl who print minis use the free software prusaslicer for auto orientation and auto supports. they are much better than the supports in chitubox which comes with the printer. you still need the software to slice the STL though.

[@JPWestmas]

If the hardest part of this for you is getting the print off the bed, you are doing well. :) But yeah the supports and orientation is the key for quality. Some printers can print as small as 20 microns for the layer height. In which case you can get insanely detailed models. But the detail actually has to be in the model to print that detail of course. And the printer has to support really large files that have all that information in them.

[@martinthewarrior5016]

Getting a 3d printer is looking more and more appealing recently, however I sadly sont have the hobby funds currently. Maybe at some point though!

[@LakeyWargames]

Nice video Luke! Always nice to see the honest learning curve! Can't wait to see what you do with this in the future! :)

[@Ashley_962]

I got my Elegoo Mars Pro 2 yesterday and had the exact same thing happen to me with the test print - one was broke, both were stuck on nicely :P

[@athollmcnicoll256]

I like the way you said to start with remember my wet palette I tried and threw in the bin and though oh oh a shed load of money going the same way but No you seem to have achieved what you set out to achieve so good on you matey and will this be your next quest into producing 3D models to sell through your franchise ? Cheers Luke!

[@briandavies8351]

Did you put the rubber seal on the red lid mate

[@PatchGuilf]

How many models printed off that size bottle of resin? Can the off cuts and failed pieces be re used somehow or is it just waste?

[@Splatterpunk_OldNewYork]

Waste. Not like FDM printing, where the plastic can be re-melted and formed back into usable filament using an after-market extruder.

[@briandavies8351]

Luke I just bought a Mars pro2 but it’s in my back bedroom come little model workshop I’m concerned about the toxic fumes and bog how did you manage with the smell etc

[@briandavies8351]

@@GeekGamingScenics thanks mate I’m going to give it a go still researching how to do it lol 😂

[@davidefoti90]

Hello Luke, Where did you find the isopropanol 2.5L and more important do you know how to get rid of it once is not more usable ? Thanks in adavance

[@davidefoti90]

​@@GeekGamingScenics Thanks, very much appreciated :)

[@darrentinman6994]

Would these 3d printers be good to make parts for 1:18 car parts? I want to make some parts for 1:18 cars that make them look more realistic

[@darrentinman6994]

@@GeekGamingScenics ah sweet. I am really tempted to get one to print out some custom parts for my 1:18 model cars.

[@patricom05]

Well this made the decsion for me.. Off to Amazon now

[@coloneljacobs2217]

Just got one of these bad boys for Christmas. So far I've printed an entire German armored column for Bolt Action (cus I'm a cheap skate) and a Tyranid Hive Tyrant (again - you guessed it - cus I'm a dirty cheapskate).

[@keithsmodelsandrcs6593]

You know what iv baught one the elegoo mars pro 3D printer months ago ok i actually over paid for mine cause people are getting these with a washer and curing tank too with resin i paid nearly 200 english pounds so about 230 to 250euros been from ireland and then nearly 40euro bottle resin i have not yet had a single test print that even stuck to my build plate its so painfull after buying something so exspensive not been able to get what i baught it for from it i am like u never used or seen one in person but i have to say im trying here for a successful print while i write this so wish me luck but i have to say you have explained what and how to so easily instructions from u as u said ur a novest like me i know noting of them but u explained in this video how i can understand easyer but iv had this print started b4 i watched this video from another guy it was setting it up i watched so if that works out ill be so happy i didnt throw so much money into the bin but ur advice and video has given me some confidence if this print fails on me but ill see in little over 2hours left but thanks for sharing your video my next problem will be downloading 3D stl file to my pc and slicing it onto the USB drive thing iv to learn next if this goes well is how to put 4 wheels on plate rather than 1 that pops up when i try its free stl file from thingaverse or something like u said u got ur prints from anyway sorry for rambling wish me luck iv it over or around 6months and have yet to get something from this its driving me mad well have a great rest ur week and week end stay safe keep good learner vids coming specially settings i type into machine to be set at normal printing so i know its rite u know that would help great like underneath lighting or the seconds or stuff like that u have to have saved in settings thank u 👍👍Keith just subbed u too im only model car figure builder the past 2 years but my printer is uploaded on my channel day git it then months later when i tried setting it up if ur interested but ill be watching hoping u have step by step setup with times settings on each part of the built in slicer and the printing on the printer. If u get what i mean. If u dont. Dont mind me bro im a bit of a winger when i cannot get something working ha ha lol u know frustrated i get u know how it is im sure have a nice day.. Again sorry for the SA in ur comment section from me mite have alot typos too sorry,,

[@oodyswe]

I just got a creality halot one and I am having a impossable time of making a tight fit for all of the corners while leveling the platform. Will the print get ruined if one of the corners is not tight? Do you have any good advice of what to do?

[@chrispalmer1036]

Love my mars most of my minis are 3d printed now

[@lukemcdonladson6648]

Whoop whoop .. Yeah yeah Fella ... More More ... can't wait to see this grim dark terrain. 😃

[@victorclausson4039]

How long can a finished print and left over resin stay in the printer before taking it off/out. Like if a print finishes in the middle of the night and you can’t get to it until the morning.

[@jeremiahembs5343]

That's fine. As long as the UV cover stays on the printer the part can stay in the printer for a couple of days if necessary. The resin in the vat will be fine too, but you have to stir the resin a bit before using it again if it sat there for a while. Just keep the printer out of the sunlight that might be coming through a window just in case. At the worse you might loose a little detail if a little light gets to a model that still has some resin on it, but inside the printer with the cover on it should be safe.

[@rogg0224]

I have the mars 2 pro and when the build plate goes to the very top, it pushes the cover up slightly. Any help? 😔

[@Max-yy3lz]

So any tips for removing the models from the build platform? My first print with my new Mars is in the making right now.

[@richardwilson2621]

Hey I just wanted to say creality has a resin printer that is easier to use it's the creality ld 002r resin printer . I had 2 of them and ran them day and night 7 days a week non stop they are work horses and cheap to buy . I sold them and bought the peopoly phenom because I wanted a large build volume and it's also a work horse . Go ahead and buy a printer don't be afraid to break it you will be able to fix it or return it . You can buy the creality on Amazon go ahead and give it a try it's addictive . Happy creating.

[@KamenRiderSilver]

Great video! Thanks for learning it with us! Other videos make me feel stupid for not knowing anything 😂.

[@aaronblount3999]

Failed prints offer up a mini with character... I recently printed a mini who's leg failed... Cut off a bit of chop stick and now he's known as "Greg the Peg", lost his leg in an unfortunate printing press accident. Poor fellow has been a drunkard ever since. Printing is a blast. You'll never run out of stuff to paint. LOL

[@tomusannonymous]

3d printing is dope, ive got an fdm printer which is better for terrain and its turbocharged my hobby. Also I'm getting lots of pieces for very cheap.

[@oilujblanco]

that spatula it comes with didn't do much anything for me either :V i find using a box cutter with the blade fully extended to delicately peel off the prints from the plate more effective than "bang it off with a spatula".

[@NEXUS-kjv]

*Can I make Rubber Stamps with that particular printer?*

[@bitmap_jack]

So did you get the pickle container in Asda then?

[@d4prod688]

Hello, where did you buy your boxes?

[@periprocto4026]

That´s my printer. Good buy!

[@ChillingWargamers]

Awesome video dude. ❤❤❤

[@andreweckford6319]

For some reason the montage with the various trial/failed models reminded me of the lab scene from Alien Resurrection...