BMW E60 Control Arm Replacement | New Rear Toe Adjustment Arms

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[@craigchamberlain]

I’m just back in from the garage where I spent the entire day battling with the nearside rear suspension on my 2008 E61 535d. My intention was to remove the lower wishbone and replace the two pressed in bushes using the special tool kit I got on Amazon. After raising the car and deflating the air springs I sprayed all the bolts with penetrating oil. The very first nut I tried to loosen was the rearmost inboard lower wishbone bolt and it wouldn’t budge even with max power on my Dewalt XR impact wrench! I managed to get a few cracks by standing on a 2 foot breaker bar and then a bit later got the nut loosened. The integral link bolt was absolutely fine albeit VERY tight, and the frontmost inboard wishbone bolt was also straightforward. What wasn’t at all straightforward was that flamin’ upper guide arm inboard mount. That’s the one you had trouble with in this video. But in my case the nut came off with just a bit of persuasion but the bolt itself was seized inside the bush and although I could turn it, I couldn’t extract it. I must have spent 2 hours or more on it just spraying penetrating oil from all directions and constantly turning it but I couldn’t get it out. I didn’t want to level against the chassis mounting lugs because they look quite fragile. In the end I had to cut through the bush and bolt using a Dewalt multi-tool which wasn’t as good as a reciprocating saw but eventually did the job. What an absolute nightmare! I was also unable to replace the wishbone bushes as my tool just didn’t work very well. To be honest they still feel very good and just have a small amount of rubber delamination around the boss. I had more success with the integral joint balljoint and managed to remove the replace it using another special tool I got on Amazon. The only problem I had with it was getting the balljoint seated sufficiently to engage the circlip. I’ve still got the other upper control arm to replace but hopefully it’ll go better and then I’ll just have the other side to do! Not the most enjoyable day in the garage but sometimes that’s how it goes!

[@simplelangperorock]

hey George, mine were seized too on both sides. I just used my sawzall and bought new sets of eccentric bolts and washers

[@50cts]

Good video but one crucial thing is wrong. You DONT tighten the eccentric bolt fully down when the car is jacked up. The wheel hub must be at ride height when tighten this bolt fully down. Otherwise you always have a torsional force on the bushing when the wheel hub is on ride height which wears it very fast.

[@GeorgeAusters]

Well I’ve had my wheel alignment done already now. Should be ok now right?

[@50cts]

@@GeorgeAusters They probably untightened it to adjust it while beeing at ride height so it should be fine now, yes. But its best to tighten it down at ride height in the first place. I know its a pain in the arse with no lift. You can stand it on bricks or something like this to reach the bolt while wheels are fitted and loaded by the car weight. You should keep that in mind for every rubber bushing (not sure if thats the right term) at the suspension because not all of them will be losened for the wheel alignment which means they are killed in no time due to the torsional forces on them when the car is at ride height after tightening the bolts on jacked up car.

[@marcbronson936]

Sebastian Pfennig I measure centre of the hub to the arch whilst its on the ground and then use a bottle jack to raise the hub to the ride height before tightening up bolts.

[@radianm6]

Why does everybody show that eccentric bolt half way out but nobody wants to show how they got it even half way out….

[@supdougs4487]

Thank you bro cause mines are stuck on both sides yet no one is showing how they removed it Lmao

[@radianm6]

@@supdougs4487 i ended up buying new bolts and cutting old ones off

[@supdougs4487]

@@radianm6 thank you so much bro cause I was thinking of doing the same but the bolts I found on Amazon were like $50 each. Did you find any cheaper ones bro? Thanks again

[@radianm6]

@@supdougs4487 ask the dealer

[@grahamwatts8305]

Great Video - Im about to replace all 3 arms on both side, top rear-front and back, and bottom rear-back. Once done, i will settle the car down, over a pit, and torque the bolts/nuts up to specification and then get the motor tracked. Did you notice, that the torque specification for these bolts is very high, pending what ones of course.

[@awowen69]

Great videos as always. Where did you get the control arms kit from? Thanks

[@smc7960]

Great video and very helpful...does anyone know if the bolts for toe and camber are the same? I had a similar thing happen at Kwik fit ...I can't find toe bolts online only camber bolts ...

[@jonot8547]

Hey George, can you reuse eccentric bolts if they look good?

[@GeorgeAusters]

Yes

[@hanynowsky]

What were the symptoms of this worn rear toe arm?

[@GeorgeAusters]

The fact that they couldn’t adjust it on wheel alignment

[@glendekoker3682]

tork for bolts?

[@awowen69]

Hi George, where did you get the kit from? Thanks

[@GeorgeAusters]

Buy the kit HERE: amzn.to/2QEzYH6

[@craigchamberlain]

I'd strongly recommend NOT using an impact wrench on the locking wheel bolts. I always go round the car with a breaker bar and slacken all the locking bolts that I intend to remove. Then I just spin them off with the impact wrench when I remove each wheel. I had got away with using the impact wrench for a while but eventually it caused my locking adapter to fail and it was a real pain trying to figure out which adapter I needed to get from BMW or from online stores on ebay. If you are going to use the impact wrench then at least buy a spare lock adapter before it breaks as that makes it much easier to match up.

[@GeorgeAusters]

It’s not the impact wrench that breaks the locking bolt key.. they’re just a poor design. It’s actually safer using an impact wrench as they use a hammering force instead of just twisting like you would with a breaker bar

[@craigchamberlain]

@@GeorgeAustersI've got to respectfully disagree, the peak torque on the locking bolt will always be higher with an impact wrench than with a breaker bar due to rotational inertia, plus with the breaker bar you've got much better control of the depth of engagement of the locking bolt. The peak torque will be equal to the static friction of the bolt PLUS any inertial component caused by the hammering action. To be fair, I don't think the inertial component will be very high due to the low mass of the bolt. However, I think a much bigger issue is the lack of depth control where the impact tends to cause the locking bolt to bounce in and out of full engagement. Anyway, having a spare locking bolt is good advice in any case I'm sure you'll agree.