Grinding Valve Seats

[@SStudiopro]

The way I learned and did for years and years. Thanks for bringing me back almost 50 years

[@jesseduke694]

Very cool video! I wish i would have found this back when i was just starting to learn how to use the equipment. I bought the grinder & the seat machine & all the stones & dressers & misc stuff a shop had. A guy showed how to grind the valves. That part was easy. But i was on my own with the sests. I didnt have anybody that was willing to answere my questions or most didnt know themselves. But i figured it out. I had alot of questions that i just had to give my best guess of what i thought it should be like? I did ok. My first set of old 390 heads were good. I had one exhoust valve i must not have gotton it truly excentric? It always leaked abouf 50 percent from that cylinder. Never got worse. Couldnt tell running it. Thing had gobs of power. I did another set of heads & swapped them out & they were better. Still running today. Now ive dun sevral other sets of heads too. Ill say somtimes how i go at them is alil different than how you did it. If a seat is out a good bit, alot of times ill set a stone on it & ill just turn it by had with light pressure to see were the stone cleans up. Ill see alot with low spots. But ill go in & take material with my 60 & get it good & dug out all the way around. Ill kiss it with a 30 then but i dont want a deep 30 so just so it cleans it all the way around. That gives me a good visual of how the 45 looks. If the are out a bunch ill dig it out with my 60 till the 60 practicly meets the 30. Then ill go with the 45 so i can have a nice true 45 & it dont take much. Becouse the 45 is just a thin line all the way around were the 60 & 30 meet, so all u have to do is touch it to bring the width in of your 45. It leaves me with a thin 30 & a thin 45 & wide 60. Its worked well for me.

[@SuperKONR]

@@jesseduke694 I paint machinist dye on the seat after it's ground and then lightly tap the valve into the seat, it'll leave a line in the dye and you can make sure it's even all the way around. A 3 angle grind like that will help flow and make more power, just have to make sure you keep enough width on the cut that contacts the valve (usually the 45) so that it has a decent contact area with the seat. That contact area is what cools the head of the valve. The bigger the width on that cut, the more heat transfer from the valve to the cyl head. That's where the HP vs long term durability compromise comes in to play.

[@805ROADKING]

Nicely done Bud!! Well explained!!☺

[@SuperKONR]

Thanks Roadking!! I appreciate you watching!

[@paulanderson1063]

Nice work I have the same equipment (Sioux) in my shop. I needed the brush up. I have the knurl tool and reamer. Nothing wrong with it also the rifle groove aids in lubrication.

[@Yerzhigit01]

Where valve grinder from?

[@rensta6701]

Thanks guy very good video!!

[@mostlymoparih5682]

Nice job Pal.

[@SuperKONR]

Thanks!

[@matthewklein9225]

Great video! Love this stuff. What car did the heads go on?

[@SuperKONR]

They were to a Pontiac 350 that I put in a fox body Mustang, I think I have some videos posted of driving it.

[@matthewklein9225]

@@SuperKONR heck yeah man. I watched a few of the videos.

[@ClaremontClassicGarage]

Wonder what I'm doing wrong. I have a sioux and the same pink stones. As soon as the stone touches the seat it gets a groove in it. On a Ford flathead. I believe it has factory hardened seats. Maybe that's the problem?

[@SuperKONR]

Been awhile since I did this stuff but I think I used to use gray stones for roughing them in, then go back and finish with the ruby stones. The Goodson catalog should explain the different types of stones.

[@ClaremontClassicGarage]

@@SuperKONR THANKS! I'll check it out.

[@SuperKONR]

@@ClaremontClassicGarage Hardened seats are rough on stones in general, if the seats are badly pitted you may need an actual seat cutter. Rides on the same pilot but has cutting edges on it like a reamer. If your block has seat inserts you have plenty of hardened material but if not, be aware that it will likely only be induction hardened. On those you only have .020 or so of a hardened surface and you may end up cutting through it before the seat is cleaned up. So just go slow and careful

[@ClaremontClassicGarage]

@@SuperKONR Thanks, I have been slowly building up a collection of Neway cutters as $ allows.

[@joecostu1571]

Very good thank you you splain and show hands on

[@65f100352]

Loved this vid. Brought back memories of high school shop,, doing my '69 429 heads. There is a Sioux machine here for sale with the attachments for $225...is that a decent price? Love your vid man! Thanks!

[@michaelsteaphens6763]

You mentioned building a 260 using 302 crank and rods. Are you going to video that build here? It's one I'm interested in myself.

[@MaineMachinist]

Is that a Logan Lathe in the background?

[@SuperKONR]

1943 Logan 850

[@odl21]

Surely that cylinder in the background must be honed by now? :)

[@SuperKONR]

LOL I must have been doing my laundry during the video, that's my 1926 Maytag wringer washer making the racket!

[@kenkropf8607]

I'm curious about the linkage setup you have on you 200 ford. I have an 80 capri built motor with an offi triple intake but the linkage is shot. any info would be much appreciated

[@SuperKONR]

I built the one for my tri-power. It's just 1/4" rod with heim joints threaded on. The end carbs are linked together 1 to 1. The center carb has a slip joint connecting it to one of the outer carbs. For the first 1/3 of throttle travel the rod freely slides into a bigger piece of aluminum rod, at that point it bottoms out and starts pushing on the other end that's connected to the outer carb. On the outer carb, the linkage from the center carb is attached closer to the center of the throttle shaft than the linkage attaching it to the other outer carb. That way the outer carbs open faster than the center one, so it's progressive but you still get full throttle on all 3 carbs at once.

[@ChargerMiles007]

Cool!

[@isaiahprivratsky426]

Hey man is there anyway to DM you, I have a ton of questions on how to use some equipment I inherited!

[@SuperKONR]

[e-mail]

[@jimmattingly4234]

I have that same valve grinder for a wall hanger but to heavy

[@automaniacUSA]

You could knurl and reem the guides.

[@SuperKONR]

That works for a little while, just not the best solution in my opinion. I've heard of people knurling pistons too back in the flathead days... Thanks