Problem with Osmo UV Protection Oil. Has it Failed?

#onehandedwoodworking #osmo
Quick video where I am again asking for some advice about Osmo UV Protection Oil. It appears to have some patchy issues where it has not been effective on parts of my front workshop cladding. Be really interested to know what you think?
As ever, thank you so much for your continued support in my disability woodworking adventures. Please consider giving the video a thumbs up and maybe even subscribing to the channel. Best Wishes, Leo
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[@sawdustandsurvival]

I've got a huge amount of respect for you speaking honestly about a product. Please don't ever lose that transparency and honesty. It's what sets you apart. As for the question, I'd guess that a lot of it comes down to the wood prior to coating. I've got birdbox roofs that are still perfect after 3 years with simple yacht varnish. I suspect it's because 1) they're pitched roofs at a 45 degree angle so water doesn't get chance to sit on it. 2) the wood was bone dry before I applied it. I also apply an initial thinned down coat or two so the dry wood can absorb it before the neat coats go on.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Cheers pal, thanks for the comment and interesting to hear your thoughts. I know what is going on with the wood before anything is applied is the crucial bit, but I’m starting to think if the Osmo is actually worth the extra money over other products ? 🤷‍♂️🤔

[@sawdustandsurvival]

Yes definitely worth considering. I think that you've done the right thing by giving it another chance because the wood will have definitely had chance to breathe and expel any oils, as you noted in the video. So maybe this is a good thing. I suppose you won't know for sure for another 6-12 months if it's been effective. As for durable finishes, I was stood outside The Wine Press at Hollingworth Lake where I pass frequently. The weather round here gets quite extreme at times due to it's location near the moors. I moved here from only 15 miles away and am shocked sometimes. They've had the same benches for years now and I think I'd have noticed if they'd refinished them, so I don't think they have in around 5 years at least. Despite this, they still look great. I took a photo and asked on a woodwork group what they would have likely been finished in. Someone said that it would likely be a product like Hempel 2 part varnish. If so, the stuff must be quality because these are flat tabletops taking frequent abuse (it's a popular place) and get battered by weather extremes year round. Possibly not the look you'd want for your shed, but worth knowing about for durable outdoor finishes.

[@michealmacfheorais9720]

I.m.o. no wood is impervious to degredation, with the possible exception of telegraph poles ,& possibly highly pressure treated , & very expensive farm fencing. When you cut these posts in two , you can find that the treatment is all the way through the timber, with NO white core in the centre. I am 80 yrs. old and have noted this all my adult years. The most durable surfaces are galvanised or stainless steel. You will notice that truly weatherproof garden furniture nowadays is made of a polyurethane substance with aluminium frame / legs. The best wood treatment for an existing structure is creosote, but unfortunately it is banned in most countries nowadays.

[@-ewen]

Not sure if mentioned already, but I see Osmo recommend that this product is only used on vertical boards. Thanks for putting up the video as I have now opted for a different product for my project.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Yes that’s my understanding of it as well Ewen. Cheers for the comment 😀👍

[@bpt006]

Annual maintenance on exterior products is quite normal. Couple of things to watch out for. Microfiber cloths can contain silicon, which may affect adhesion of finish. Also, wouldn’t sand much past 120 on exterior wood. Exterior UV comes in 410 and 420 .. use 420, it has biocides that will stop the black spots I saw on your wall. Next time you reapply, wipe town with a maroon scotch brite, then reapply. Osmo is always two coats. Put them on thin.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Cheers bpt006. I hear what you’re saying about annual maintenance on exterior products, but if that is the case, is there any point in paying out all the extra fir the Osmo?

[@andrewmudge3718]

@Hand-i-Craft I like the uv resistance which I can testify to it providing . I'm about to do a section of English western red , and will definitely use it again. But I sand mine back to a completely uniform dry appearance , starting with 80 finishing 120 and coat with 24 hrs periods between. Its come out superbly is all I can say.

[@Jezzer147]

Great vid! I built a Timber clad workshop last year. Although it was softwood treated cladding, I still applied 2 coats of clear decking oil for peace of mind. After 1 year of Welsh weather it was just starting to go a little pale from the UV. Just recoated again in the same decking oil yesterday and it went on fantastic. Looks beautiful again and it rained after a few hours and water was beading straight off. Would highly recommend using that instead. 1 x 5 litre can did the whole lot and deck 👍

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Nice one, cheers for this. I’ve got some decking oil for the other three sides so glad to hear it works well 👍👍

[@projectrebuild908]

I would agree with everyone that says the sticky substance must be sap coming out of the wood, with the hot summer this year. As the sap is being released it must be lifting the osmo away from the wood and as it rains, it must be washing away that protection layer. Great video Leo. Interesting as nothing will stop natural materials doing what they want.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Really good point pal and sounds like a good explanation of what has happened. Part of the reason I went with the Osmo was it being an oil rather than I varnish so thought it would penetrate into the wood, but the sap heading in the other direction must have affected this 🤷‍♂️👍

[@projectrebuild908]

@@Hand-i-Craft I guess the two substances are travelling on the same path just in opposite direction and one of them is is under more pressure, so winning the sumo push battle 👍

[@benjaqsonworkshop9974]

The comments you've got are really interesting. I now only used teak wood oil in the UK and find it absolutely does the job but doesn't give a shine to the finish and raw linseed oil on shutters in France that do shine but dry out in frequent 40 degree plus heat. I don't think I'd use a wax finish on oily wood as I'd like to think it can breathe and 'sweat' as the temperature and humidity changes. I have considered Osmo but I'm still learning and look forward to a follow up video after more comments from those in the know.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Cheers Ben for the comment, been some really interesting ones up to now and I’m sure there will be some more from folk much more experienced than you and I 👍👍

[@aapoapina7390]

That "stuff" is most likely from the wood itself. We use pine here in finland for outdoor things and the resin "boils" out from the wood in hot summers and dries when it gets outside from the wood. And all oils must be reapplied after x amount of time. It just depends of the weather, conditions of the surface and how much sun shines to it. Also if the oil applied to surface which is too smooth, the oil might not grab strong enough to the base material and wears off quicker than normal.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Nice one, thanks Aapo for the info here, much appreciated 😀👍

[@jimgeelan5949]

Hi Leo, I’ve also had issues with osmo oil I’ve used it for years and on issues at all, but lately it needs to be updated more regularly. There’s a maker on KZbin goes by the name Pudulla studio who’s work is on another level he has for a long time finished his work with osmo but even he has now changed so its not just you & me. Trouble is that by the time you have to refinish, the wood has already got a bad look to it and we are just coating over the top of that.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

I was disappointed with this Jim as I paid the extra for the Osmo and as you can see it’s a pretty large surface area and it hasn’t been great. If you look in the comments some folk are a bit critical saying I need to annually re-coat etc, so my reply is what’s the point paying all the extra for the Osmo then. If it’s a question of annual maintenance then I could easily use a finish half the price with just a nice a finish 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

[@mrb4408]

On my shed/workshop I’ve used just Cuprinol DUCKSBACK. Gave it two coats, and three years later it’s still doing great.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

I used Cuprinol on the shed I built before the workshop pal and it is still going strong now 😀😀😀👍👍

[@FrenchFarmhouseDiaries]

Hi Buddy Keruing timber already has a very oily structure and is very durable hence why it is used as a lorry trailer decking so putting osmo would work against it it would have been better to put a natural turpentine on it first let it dry then appley a second coat then let that dry then finish with a couple of boiled linseed oil coats a much more superior and natural finish in my opinion its never failed me even on things like idigbo which is very oily all the best Budo 🍺🤠👍

[@Hand-i-Craft]

I wish I’d have known this when I put it up! Thanks for sharing your knowledge here though, much appreciated. Quick question, I’m back to square one with the Osmo situation again, same problem after I applied a new coat, what do you suggest I do from here? Sand it back and applied some boiled linseed oil or something similar? Cheers, Leo

[@FrenchFarmhouseDiaries]

@@Hand-i-Craft Hi Leo its a tricky one now as the osmo oil is now mixed in i would sand it back then put the natural turpentine on let it dry then on a nice warm dry day start the boiled linseed applications but mix in the oil some turpentine at a ratio of 30% to 70% oil and build it up to the final coat of just pure oil what's to lose buddy very important make sure its pure boild linseed oil and not raw linseed oil all The best Budo keep up the great work on your channel buddy

[@Hand-i-Craft]

@@FrenchFarmhouseDiaries Brilliant, thank you 👍👍

[@Hand-i-Craft]

@@FrenchFarmhouseDiaries can I ask you one final question pal please? Is turpentine substitute ok to use or does it need to be the proper stuff?

[@BigAds.]

I have used this on my similar panelling which is Siberian larch, looked fantastic once first applied but failed to stop UV damage and did not weather well followed all guidance, now resorted in having to get the fence soft sand blasted to start again, will use barrettine this time.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Sounds very similar to my experiences. It’s too early to give you advice but I’m just in the process of testing out 9 different finishes as a direct comparison on the front cladding. I’m filming how I’ve set up the experiment now so keep an eye out on my channel 👍👍

[@RpR_Makes]

Leo, I use OSMO on my Oak clad workshop and like you I am disappointed. I have to sand it down every couple of years and redo it to prevent it from going grey. I tend to find OSMO is ok on vertical surfaces such as sides of sheds but not on horizontal ones where the water sits on it. On my Oak doors (part 1 video on my channel) under the windows the wood started to turn black where the OSMO failed, I then sanded this back and re did it with clear decking oil and it has never gone black since. I must admit next time I sand back my shed it will not be replaced with OSMO and instead I will use decking oil which seems to penetrate the wood better and causes water to bead.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Really interesting to read this pal. Plenty of food for thought here 😀😀👍👍

[@alexwilson4740]

I’ve had similar issue though was aware from product data sheet that it is recommended for vertical surfaces.

[@xw6968]

Any finish should be re-done after some time. My question also here is what did you put on the other side of it, what season/ weather..

[@Hand-i-Craft]

1 coat Osmo UV on the back pal, two on the front. Applied late last August, nice weather but not hot

[@Hand-i-Craft]

I think that's why I am quite disappointed tbh pal as I thought this would be the perfect product for my needs

[@carterscustomrods]

Try using tightbond 3 :) I use it for exterior UV protection here in hot, humid, and sunny Florida. When I was a fishing rod builder, I used a watered down Elmer's Glue to coat threads before epoxy. It prevented UV fading on the threads. The downfall, it's not waterproof. So, when Titebond 3 wood glue came out, I was curious. I've coated plywood with it and have had outdoors over year, (and now through a hurricane lol) and it's still secure, and perfectly protecting the wood. It did change color to a dark amber hue though. I even used Titebond 3 (an old jug I had that spoiled in the heat) to coat the cutoffs on limbs, and prevent them decaying on an old oak tree. So far, it's been perfectly preserved. So take a scrap piece of wood, put a coat on it, and leave it outdoors. Hurricane ate my fence (but the sun and rain had already beaten it up enough) and the replacement fence I'll be doing will have a coating of Titebond 3 to preserve it.... and give it a "Pop" of amber golden color.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Thanks Matt and I hope you’re doing ok post hurricane. Never even thought of the likes of Titebond 3, do you dilute it or just as it is?

[@mandyleeson1]

Hi Leo. Disappointing about the Osmo, I read somewhere that it doesn’t do as well on horizontal boards, but the price suggests it should do much better. Tbh, I don’t think any of them last in very sunny conditions. During the summer here we regularly have temperatures between 30 to 40 degrees. I’ve started to use a boiled linseed oil mix, which is great and much cheaper, but still has to be refreshed every two years.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Thanks Mandy, as I’ve just mentioned in another comment, if this is going to be an annual thing then I don’t see the point in going with Osmo. Might as well try something much cheaper 🤷‍♂️👍

[@andrewmudge3718]

I’m not pro osmo particularly . But I’ve used it on western red , 3 coats with 24hr between coats. It’s immaculate 3 years later. However my version of sanding it back and yours is completely different. I think it’s all in the prep.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Thanks Andrew and you could be absolutely right with the prep. There are so many different variables when it comes to applying a treatment to wood it’s difficult to pinpoint what the main problem could be. In this situation the Osmo simply hasn’t worked for me as my follow up video shows. Cheers for commenting about your experience though 👍👍😀😀

[@tonyworkswood]

Hi Leo. I've only used it once for an interior job. Your workshop wall looks looks nice with the new coat of Osmo on it. Tony

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Thanks Tony. It looks a lot better now but there are some patches that I’ll need to revisit again I think 👍

[@bret9741]

Did pretty well for sun and one year. Ive not found any finish do well in direct sunshine. I’ve found you have to put a quick refresh every 6 months in direct sun.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Thanks Bret. I just don’t see the point in spending all that extra money on Osmo when a much cheaper alternative only achieves the same results 🤷‍♂️

[@AfricanSouthernCross]

Great upload, you did nothing wrong mate, sometimes in my experience the most expensive stuff disappoint as one expects these to be bullet proof to everything, I used boiled linseed with a little bit of turpentine to scare of insects and it seems to have worked, plus way way cheaper.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Cheers for this comment pal, much appreciated. I think fundamentally with the intense summer heat we had, the sap came out of the wood and crystallised on the surface which may have compromised the Osmo. I am a bit disappointed tbh due to the premium you are paying for this product but will have to chalk it off as lesson learned 👍

[@AfricanSouthernCross]

@@Hand-i-Craft You may have a really valid point there regarding the hot summer plus the oozing of natural gum within the timber, anyway keep on posting you have a great channel !

[@notbad88]

I have had great success with the osmo 425 Oak on an oak bird table for 8 years without failing, there is some dark pigment to it which gives the oak a darker slightly brown look but this pigment seems to offer good uv protection, I have also tried clear uv protection oil and it doesn’t even last a few months before failing whatever brand you buy, paint or pigmented is the only way to avoid the finish failing outside I think

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Thanks David for the info here, really appreciated 👍👍

[@britishbulldog8966]

Finishing exterior wood is like chasing the dragon, particularly in a northern climate. After 40 years a journeyman carpenter I have yet to be impressed by an exterior finish. Leave it raw, commit to regular maintenance (before you see signs of degradation) or cover it with steel. Reality is harder to sell than marketing claims. The wood we have to work with these days is much worse that it used to be and regardless it’s a constantly changing substrate…very difficult to apply a static substance to a changeable surface. It’s like painting a dog, and that didn’t work either. Cheers

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Fantastic advice and thank you. I just wish there was more honesty like this about. Could I ask you one more question please, if you could recommend one finish / treatment etc for external wood furniture, what would you choose? Cheers, Leo

[@britishbulldog8966]

@@Hand-i-Craft Hi Leo, there are 2 things that I use myself when I absolutely have to…for decks, planters, even concrete, etc. I mix 2:1 boiled linseed oil and turpentine and spray it on. For fancy projects, furniture and the like, I use Spar Varnish intended for marine use. I’ve determined that if it’s good enough for boats it’s likely suited for the back garden. The bug-a-boo is always going to be the sun and movement during freeze/thaw and keeping up with the cracks. Cheers

[@Hand-i-Craft]

@@britishbulldog8966 Thank you, much appreciated 😀😀👍👍

[@Hand-i-Craft]

@@britishbulldog8966 Amazing again and thank you. One last question and I promise I’ll leave you alone after that😂, is turpentine substitute ok to do or does it need to be the real deal?

[@britishbulldog8966]

@@Hand-i-Craft A sub would likely be fine…like mineral spirits…as the solvent is added to the boiled linseed to help it dry faster. I’ve always stuck to the terps because I use it outside and I’m confident the overspray isn’t going to hurt anything else too badly. The other reason is that I’m confident with the ratio of those 2 ingredients…and it’s relatively cheap. Some fellas add melted paraffin wax…but that can flake and turn black so I don’t do that. Good luck with your future projects, I miss my England. Cheers

[@AndrewSkinner-qi4hy]

If you are applying an oil surface coating to Keruing it will have problems penetrating into the dense oily timber, the south facing exposure will also mean maintenance every 1 to 2 years, you'd need a high solids stain to a achieve a 5 year maintenance cycle. Keruing (depending on the exact sub-species) can be very durable indeed and doesn't need treatment, but if you want to keep the colour its regular recoating is the price you pay.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Brilliant, thanks for the feedback on this. Yes I think the Osmo was compromised when the sap started to ooze out from the keruing which started to crystallise on the wood surface. I’ll keep working on it as it is a lovely finish on the front of the workshop. I think it’ll need a top up in the spring when we (finally) get a bit of dry weather 😀

[@HewAndAwe]

Dude theres so many variables, firstly when was the last time you remember the UK being in 40 degree heat, we're in a whole new era, how dry/wet were the boards when you applied the Osmo, etc etc. None the less I dont think theres a product on the market that doesn't need another coat every year.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Thanks Ben, makes total sense. My thought process atm is asking whether the Osmo is really worth the extra cost? 🤷‍♂️

[@monkeyboysworkshop]

I’m surprised that’s happened to mate, especially with a premium product. Would be interesting to see what people think too 🤙🏻

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Cheers Sam, been some great comments up to now and sure there will be more added. I’m just a bit confused really that if it will need treating every year then what is the point paying double for the Osmo🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

[@monkeyboysworkshop]

@@Hand-i-Craft Well exactly that, you should only really need to have to retreat an exterior surface once every five years, especially on a premium product so surely osmo can do better 🤔

[@allanstephenson3083]

Hi I think you will find that the stuff that is seeping out of your Keruing is the natural sap and sugars that are in the timber. Keruing and Gerging are renowned for it.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Thanks Alan, did I do right then by sanding it back and reapplying the Osmo?

[@allanstephenson3083]

@@Hand-i-Craft Yes re apply but the sap will probably keep re appearing. A cheap treatment for out door timbers I have used is a mixture of old engine oil and Kerosene, don't know what the boffins would say to that🤫

[@keefykeef]

great video Leo. I'm a bit biased so I won't comment as I've always found Osmo to be over hyped for what it is, and also I've always found the marketing people there a bit smug and full of themselves!!

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Thanks Keith, I’ve seen your videos regarding Osmo and also the workshop podcast brought it up. It’s kind of the liquid equivalent of Festool in regards to folks staunch defence of it. For this application though I was prepared to go for it as so many folk recommended it. Interesting reading the comments here about other peoples experiences of it. Also if folk are suggesting to me this top up needs to be done annually, then surely there was no point buying the Osmo in the first place? 🤔🤷‍♂️

[@keefykeef]

@@Hand-i-Craft yeah I totally agree. The British weather is harsh on most finishes. I've always found Sadolin or Sikkens lasts the best out of everything I've used - also not cheap tho. But yeah Osmo seem to have marketed their way in to having a bit of a fan club! 👍

[@newbie1343]

I've had the same results with that Osmo. I've got larch on my workshop and over the winter it went patchy that started to go black in places . I've sanded it back this summer and reapplied the osmo I had left. But I was thinking of trying Texrol Hes Clear and seeing if that had a better result. I've heard good things about it, but it's another pricey product.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Cheers Newbie, never heard of that stuff you mentioned but will look it up if I need to revisit this next year

[@spendtimesavemoneydiy]

Damn you I just over boiled my spuds 🥔 watching this video, now were having mash instead of roasties. Great video. I've struggled for years trying to find the perfect product for exterior timber. I thought Osmo would be good because of the reviews and price but I guess there just isn't any way to protect timber in the UK. The solution. I want to move to Dubai and not worry about rain 😆

[@Hand-i-Craft]

😂😂😂Sorry pal about the mash situation 😂😂. I’m just interested to learn about whether it was something I done wrong or possibly the product and the conditions itself 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

[@spendtimesavemoneydiy]

@@Hand-i-Craft it's just the bloody English weather

[@Hand-i-Craft]

@@spendtimesavemoneydiy 😂😂😂

[@davidhull2060]

Hi Leo. I have a pair of oak gates and a door finished with the Osmo UV. After about a year the gates looked pretty similar to yours and the door looks like new. I don't think you have done anything wrong there...my gates are in full sun all morning, and the door is in shadow. It seems to me that every year the gates will need a rub down and fresh coat. That gummy residue, is the oil itself...either applied too thickly or perhaps not fully stirred up. Bet you are missing the Mirka Deros now....assuming that it could have sanded all of that without breaking down.....😂

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Cheers David and yes the extra weight of the Festool really did take its toll on my arm 😂😂. Thanks for the feedback, bit gutted it didn’t perform as well as I’d like but it’s all a learning process 😀👍

[@onehandedmaker]

I feel your pain Leo.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Nightmare sometimes pal when you can't switch up arms!

[@Carl-yu6uw]

My oak porch timbers are now badly greyed once again after osmo uv protection oil was applied 5 years ago having using lots of osmo wood reviver gel to get it back to green oak honey colour first. There is still a layer of product visible on the wood surface, but the colour of the wood is now silver grey.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

I was really disappointed with how poorly it worked considering the premium you’re paying against other brands 👎

[@Pistol_Knight]

The 1st coat (or coats) of any finish should be applied when the wood is at a certain moisture content (below 12% IMO) and the 1st coat should be thinned out and allowed to dry (at least 24hrs) don't sand past 120/150 as you will close the grain too much to absorb the 'finish' I also think wiping off with 'White Spirit/Mineral Spirit' adds oil to the surface, try something that evaporates quicker, like Methylated spirit leaves no residue

[@antonoat]

Interesting video. Have you tried speaking to Osmo for advice, I would definitely do that and see what they say and their recommendations are. I’d be very surprised if they weren’t interested in your experience of the product . Best of luck, let us know how you get on. 👏👍😀

[@Hand-i-Craft]

I tried contacting them through social media pal and heard nothing back. I’m off work next week so will email them for their thoughts 👍👍

[@designer-garb572]

Osmo on interiors surfaces is a great product, on exteriors, I use a blend of white spirit raw linseed oil and beeswax, and whilst I do sand and recoat every year it does remain water repellant and the wood still looks good.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Cheers pal, would it be possible for me to do this when it comes to recover this next year or would it be an issue with the Osmo application?

[@designer-garb572]

@@Hand-i-Craft As long as your wood will allow the oil to penetrate into the wood it will be fine, I personally find it does a better job and it is a lot cheaper and it seems to go a lot further, I apply it using a rag as it is thinner than osmo, that's not to say you can't use a brush, one other point, golden rule of decorating is to start from the top so you don't get splashes on work you have already finished, though with oil it doesn't really matter

[@fordtrac7171]

I have unfortunately had the same effect with my oak timbers windows. As your video shows flaking, dark spots and fading. I am going to sand back and re apply with a colour if protect and apply yearly. Can only try.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Cheers for the comment, I’ll be having to do the same for the third time when we get a run of better weather. I’m a bit disappointed in the product tbh as I don’t see the benefit of paying the premium price when the maintenance is the same as products half the price 🤷‍♂️

[@fordtrac7171]

@@Hand-i-Craft I contacted Osmo and they stated it shouldn’t happen, and turned around saying the prep to timber was Probberly not done correct ect. They did state though there colour uv works better than the normal oil uv. Am disappointed to, but going to give the colour tint uv ago.

[@simonmountford4291]

Used osmo uv this morning for the first time on a garden bench I’ve made out of pine…12 hours later it’s extremely sticky! I’ll leave it 24 hours before it’s second coat. I might oooo wire wool it before…🤔 one thing I don’t want is a sticky bench to sit on…

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Sounds possibly like you’ve applied it too thick pal. I think you’re meant to wipe off any excess after a certain time otherwise it can cause these issues. See how it is, might be worth checking their website to see if they have any troubleshooting tips

[@simonmountford4291]

@@Hand-i-Craft two weeks ago I tried osmo polyx interior on my new workbench, I applied a little and spread it well, the finish is amazing especially to touch, so this weekend I’m working on garden stuff and thought I’d try the UV outdoor osmo, whilst purchasing it I ask about application and the guy told me Not to apply this by rubbing it in he specifically stated that outdoor osmo must be applied with a brush…hence it’s gone on to thick and will never cure. Oh well so much for professional advice..,

[@simonmountford4291]

@@Hand-i-Craft update this afternoon went to inspect the “sticky” bench after a full 24hrs and…it’s no longer sticky 🤓👍 so I’ve given it a light second coat applied with a pad. Plus it looks fantastic 🤓

[@johnbull5394]

I doubt the sun is the problem. My only experience of OSMO UV protection oil (410 non-biocide version) s in Italy, south-facing, and at 3000' altitude so huge amounts of UV. Have just washed with a green scourer and applied a maintenance coat to the ?iroko shopfront after 2 years, but, to be honest, the finish after 2 years was as good as the day I first applied it. Original application was 2 unthinned coats after sanding to 100 grit (Osmo recommends no finer than 120) so all as M I's. All I can imagine is your issue has something to do with the UK's high humidity and the driving rain which is less common in an Italian mountain valley. I was applying to an old shopfront which was originally varnished and the finish was flaking and peeling, but the summer weather and dry climate meant the old wood would still have had a low moisture content that might be hard to achieve in the UK, and, if that is the problem, possibly the UK is not the best climate for the product. The sticky stuff is not something I have witnessed, so probably came from your wood not the paint.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Thanks John for sharing your experiences here and offering suggestions as to what the issue could be. Much appreciated sir 👍

[@ChrisFranklyn]

I've been falling out of love with Osmo after using it everywhere for a few years now. I'd presumed because it's meant for floors it would be great on a guitar, but it dents and rubs off very easily. Which is probably the same of all hardwax oils. I just allowed myself to believe it. Also, for outdoors I'm thinking of going for paint on all my furniture - which I know is a bad word in these circles - but it'll certainly protect.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

I can’t agree with the paint but Chris 😳, but I’m agreeing with the Osmo. I’ve no issue at all paying a premium over ‘standard’ prices for anything if it is worth the extra. I don’t know if this stuff is tbh for this purpose 🤷‍♂️

[@paulchisholm3305]

I had 3 coats put on my dormers which is clad in siberian larch back in 2020. Needs all reapplied this summer but its in pretty good knick considering I live in the wet & windy north of Scotland. Therefore my experience with Osmo oil so far has been positive.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

That’s the kind of experience I was hoping for pal, 3 year top ups. Glad it has worked out for you 😀😀👍👍

[@Spwoodworking]

Hi mate iv use the Osmo on all my mum garden furniture and it when just like ur workshop so I did the same as u and rubbed it down and recoated but it just gone back the same again so this year I’m going to use a product that Tim on the restoration couple used but I don’t no how it held up over time but iv urs the osmo on a few different species of timber I seem to do exactly the same so not too sure mate but it’s ok on my beach worktop in my workshop lol 😂

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Thanks Shaun, I know there are so many variables but I just thought it would have performed better than it did. Be interesting to see how the second coating holds out🤷‍♂️👍

[@bpt006]

Osmo uv is for vertical surfaces only. Use Osmo decking on your garden furniture. Great product. Very durable.

[@ImHavingaCoronary]

Potential problem. I'm watching the part where you wipe it down with the spirit and mircofiber cloth. You clearly miss areas that look exactly like the fail points of previous application. Then the next shot where you apply Osmo, those missed areas are still visible.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Cheers for the feedback, I’ve put some more detail into the message you posted in the other video 👍👍

[@johnwatson8192]

I feel your disappointment. I've been using tung oil on my teak/iroko garden furniture for years but started to notice blackening particularly on the horizontal slats of the table so I started looking round for something else. On a smaller set of table and chairs I used a waterbased treatment that was claimed to solve this problem - well it did for a year or two but you are supposed to apply it annually so it's hard to say whether or not it is effective. So last year on the larger set I have tried the Osmo Decking Oil in the Bangkirai shade. It is hard to tell whether there are any black streaks as it is so dark. I did notice a small spot this afternoon which appears to have flaked off but I need to look more closely now you've brought this to my attention. By the way have you asked (or reached out in modern parlance) Osmo for their comments?

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Thanks John for the info here. I’ll be in touch with Osmo, think I might point them to my video as it’d be easier for them to see it than for me to try and explain it 👍👍

[@xw6968]

So many questions about; the other side of the wood, type of wood, time of applying as in what season , weather conditions etc before i would believe the story that it is Osmo. 😏👍🏻

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Cheers x w. The wood is 22mm thick keruing, stored in a covered space prior to purchase. One coat of Osmo on the back, 2 on the front. Put up at the end of last summer, late August 👍👍

[@waynedavis6171]

I used it on oak sleeper’s , it looks crap after 6 months,i to followed the instructions. Wont be using Osmo again!

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Have to agree with you here Wayne 👍

[@rjinhobart7748]

Welcome to every day in Australia.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

🤔🤔😂😂😂😂👍👍👍

[@seesaw66]

premium oak entrance doors and windows fitted to church entranceand treated with osmo clear protection oil two years ago it has issues now with black stains and light grey patches. Been tasked with redecorating and have sanded down the worst areas and tried to treat black areas with reviver product with only partial success. I think the wax/oil in clear which is what we wanted to keep the natural oak colour starts to let british rain in and gets under the wax finish. its very exposed to rain and sun unfortunately. Dilemma now do i prepare as best i can then treat again osmo clear uv knowing in another year will start failing and have to repreat or do i strip/sand which would take alot time difficulty to get back to bare wood then use sikkens light oak stain which should last better? i think i will try one more year with osmo but not very optimist

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Sorry to hear about your experiences here. I think if the Osmo has failed then the likelihood is it will again. Wish you the best of luck in however you choose to tackle them 👍👍

[@leesaville3170]

I don't know the actual answer mate but with the boards originally used for trailer floors they would be very hard and maybe the oil hasn't properly taken to them? Might be a yearly thing you have to do, might be worth using a cheaper product it this is the case??

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Thanks Lee and that’s exactly what I’m thinking. If it does become an annual thing then there isn’t really any point in using the Osmo🤷‍♂️

[@Brewer_]

I used osmo to finish my desk last year. A year later its covered in rings from where cups have been left and needs refinishing. Not a massive fan of the product.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Can’t say I am either tbh pal. I think it’s vastly overrated, but it has a strangely blind loyal following that will blame anything but the product of a fault is pointed out 🤷‍♂️

[@PremierPaintSupplies]

Hi, was this the UV Protection Oil 420 Clear or one of the Tints? If it was the clear, we quote people a six to eighteen month maintenance cycle (24 in very favourable conditions) depending on how much direct sun the area gets. If the customer finds this unfavourable then a clear coating would not be suitable & a colour product would heve to be used instead. From what you have shared, you seem to have an expectation of the Osmo being a long-lasting product based on the cost? This isn't really the case, the cost of Osmo is related to it's natural qualities, minimal colour change, brand recognition, etc. If you were looking for a long lasting product then a Sikkens woodstain system is hard to beat. Sikkens are a market leader in this area but do not manufacture a clear exterior product which speaks volumes. Their products are highly translucent unlike cheaper alternatives which clog the grain under repeat applications. A braod recommendation is okay but the specifics (why,when, from whom it comes) are really key.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Thank you so much for taking the time to comment and share your knowledge. Genuinely appreciated, best wishes, Leo 😀👍

[@Tom-fz6pe]

I'm looking at finishing an exterior wood door that is protected from weather but gets some sun on occassion. What would you recommend that would be easy to maintain? I don't want a spar urethane because it will flake/crack over time and I have to re-sand. I want something that I can reapply without having to remove what is already there.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Are you looking to retain the natural wood colour or looking at staining it?

[@Tom-fz6pe]

@@Hand-i-Craft staining first before putting a finish on.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

@@Tom-fz6pe Might be worth looking at Sikkens Cetol with the Filter Plus 7 as the top coat 👍

[@Tom-fz6pe]

@@Hand-i-Craft My local store only has Sikkens/ProLuxe 23 Top Coat RE Wood Finish in transparent satin. Is that an acceptable top coat? It says it leaves a film, so I wasn't sure if that was equivalent to a urethane film that will peel and crack over time. Can I touch-up the door with that in a few years and it will look fine without having to refinish the entire door?

[@Hand-i-Craft]

@@Tom-fz6pe If you have a look at one of my latest videos Tom I’ve set up an experiment testing out different outdoor finishes on the cladding. I’ve no results to report back to you, but I will say the Sikkens combination I used on part of it came highly recommended. I’ve got links to the products in the description too. Another possibly worth considering is Treatex Bangarai oil, that went on really well 👍👍

[@richardfoster9805]

I’ve had the same problems as you have experienced, sticky spots, dark spots. I don’t know if I should sand it back or put some cleaner on it then paint it again, must be a way to remove the old oil without sanding it?

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Unfortunately I think sanding back is your best option pal. Let me know what you decide and how you get on with it👍👍

[@richardfoster9805]

@@Hand-i-Craft decided to start sanding it and based on how long it’s taken me so far I think I have another 6 days worth of 7 hr shifts then re apply with Osmo fingers crossed the same doesn’t happen again, but the wood that’s been sanded looks amazing once again.

[@rasmo243]

It could possibly be moisture coming out of the wood I've had that problem with yacht varnish before the varnish came off as the wood started to dry out even though the wood looked and felt dry it must have had a lot of moisture in the middle of it.

[@vernsteinbrecker3759]

Looking better

[@Hand-i-Craft]

It is Vern, but some patches not looking too great

[@NWGR]

I'm always iffy on heavily sponsored products (youtubers, "makers", etc.), of which osmo certainly is.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

It was just my experience pal and as I said in the video I wanted to learn about potential mistakes made, but I’m not sure the product has lived up to its expectations on this occasion

[@endo9913]

Did you try contacting Osmo for comment?

[@Hand-i-Craft]

I did pal, twice. Both times no reply

[@chriscaswell3433]

Not much help for your beautiful wood. I used Cuprinol ducks back shed and French on my larch shed 6 years ago, still shrugs off water and looking good. Only did one coat too.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

I used the Cuprinol Tudor black stuff on my shed when I built it Chris and it worked really well👍👍. Just wanted a product that would show off the natural wood with this one and it hasn’t quite worked out as well as I would have liked

[@chriscaswell3433]

@@Hand-i-Craft rustins do a clear shed and fence much the same type. Haven’t tried it but if it’s the same as the Cuprinol it’s worth a look at if it saves repainting every year and a lot cheaper in the long run. Just a thought.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

@@chriscaswell3433 Thanks Chris 👍

[@markjones5215]

Osmo UV Protection Oil is water resistant - not water REPELLENT. That's the issue!

[@Hand-i-Craft]

So what would you have done Mark? Or more importantly, what should I do now? I

[@joelprinciple7519]

Osmo is so expensive. Consider the o'l fashion way, engine oil and diesiel.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Wow, never heard of that method Joel 😳🤔

[@joelprinciple7519]

@@Hand-i-Craft Yes, one can use New or used engine oil mixed with diesel 50/50 mix. Use on sheds, fences ect

[@joelprinciple7519]

@@Hand-i-Craft youv'e probably heard this a 100 times, but i think you are an amazing fellor. Keep up the good work.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

@@joelprinciple7519 Thank you Joel, very kind of you to say 😀👍

[@rogerdevries7090]

Had the wood been previously and that caused an adverse reaction ?!!!!

[@Hand-i-Craft]

Had the wood been treated previously Roger? No, the first treatment it had was when I applied Osmo to it last year

[@rogerdevries7090]

@@Hand-i-Craft I really should my post before I errr, post!!!

[@Hand-i-Craft]

@@rogerdevries7090 😂😂😂

[@Bryan-gz9rg]

I have used osmo in on exterior Iroko doors I made and it lasted about two weeks before they were completely grey. Also used on walnut flooring in my house and it’s gubbed already. Don’t understand what all the hype is with osmo it’s literally the worst oil out there.

[@Hand-i-Craft]

I’ve found if you try to criticise it, people will then explain to you how it’s your fault for the way you applied it etc. I’m not convinced by all the hype but plenty folk swear by it 🤷‍♂️

[@Pete.Ty1]

👍👍👍

[@Hand-i-Craft]

😀😀👍👍Cheers Pete

[@adbellable]

melted wax

[@Hand-i-Craft]

🤔🤔Interesting