2008 Honda civic transmission filter change

2008 Honda civic transmission filter change
(8th gen) great follow along video . please watch the whole video if you can, I show all the little things to look out for so I dont cause any damage! also, if you have access to a lift, the filter is actually accessible from under the car.
part number to the genuine filter replacement also in the video

[@alejandromorazan3420]

NOTE: i posted this comment on another video , so sorry if it seems like this comment is talking about this video when in fact it was talking about the "Dannys DIY Garage" Video, i wanted to copy and paste it here so it hopefully helps others trying to do this job in the same way this video(Hands On Dismantler) helped me also i did not remove the battery or PCM i just did this job and it took me 5 hours, i can 100% say i learned so much and i am able to give tips to help out others who will be doing this by themselves, first of all, watch another video of this from a youtuber named "Hands On Dismantler" his method is what i had to use and he states the reasons of why its the better way(if you dont have a hose remover shown in this video) , why do i also believe its the better way? because removing the hoses from only the filter is nearly freaking impossible let alone using grips to loosen and move the hose clamps, theres no freaking space and you can only use one hand. Heres my TIPS [Extra tools needed]: -BUY hose removers or hose separators (seen in this video) -buy many different pliers, all kinds, long pliers, curved pliers, straight pliers, 90 degree long pliers are a MUST!!!!! i cant stress this enough - buy extra hose clamps of many sizes( you will most likely drop one from the breather hose and the one going to the airbox -buy WD40 to loosen filter hoses since they are brittle and hard -strongly recommend to just go ahead and buy new hoses of the one we are going to be removing just incase. -lights many lights, i had 2 of them fail me today due to having them on for 4 hours, they failed me when putting the new filter on, i had to use my phones flashlight to complete this job in the dark diyers you will struggle, this is a very very very hard job if youve never done it before. [Job Tips]: - remove the cowl cover and the metal thing under the plastic cowl cover, this will make removing that god damn airbox wayyy easier, i removed it without the cowl cover but had to remove cowl cover along with metal cover to be able to reinstall the stupid airbox back in, its nearly impossible to reinstall without removing cowl cover. - use PB blaster, oil or WD40 in that dumb clip thing that is to the left of the airbox in order to slide it out easier and remove the airbox. - before removing the ATF filter from its housing, leave the upper atf filter hose connected to the filter and instead follow the hose rubber towards you and remove it from the metal line instead, use WD40 first, then with pliers carefully twist it a bit then spray wd 40 again and twist it while pulling and it will easily come loose, once loose remove it, after that now we can remove the atf filter bracket to free it from housing(its still attached by hose in rear) - now here is where it gets hard, theres 2 ways to do this, if you have a hose puller tool (shown in this video) since the filter is now free and you can move it to see the rear hose, you can use the pliers to loosen and move the hose clams and use the hose puller to disconnect the rubber hose from the filter, ORRRR if you dont have a hose puller, follow the "Hands On Dismantler" method, follow the rubber hose and youll see its attached to a metal line that is shaped like a U. same principle, use pliers to remove the hose clamp and use the filter to twist it slightly clockwise and counter clockwise until the hose gets loose" DO NOT PULL ON THE FILTER" if you damage the line shaped like a "U" you will need to replace it, however i observed that you can twist the filter which still has the rear hose connected and it should loosen up the rubber hose from the U line, once loosen up stick your arm in there and gently pull on it but be careful not to pull too hard on the U line, its strong but lets play it safe( or buy a replacement, doesnt seem hard to replace) - at this point you will have the ATF filter out but will still have the front and back hoses attached to it , now its easier to remove them since the part is out of the car. Re assembly tips: - you can install the front hose first onto the filter but do not install the rear one yet( basically only install the hose on the filter that will be facing the front headlight) - first install the rear hose without the filter into the U line, then use the pliers to place clamps back on. - now the filter should have the front hose attached to it, attach it to the metal line in the front so its held by the hose to prevent it from being dropped behind the transmission when its time to install the rear hose( dont place clamps on yet) - once the filter is connected to the front metal line, place the filter in its housing without putting bracket on in order to hold it in place and make it easier to slide in and connect rear hose( getting to use both hands is impossible so this is why i say place filter in housing so its held by it to connect the rear hose onto the filter, or else as you try to connect the rear hose the filter would just be moving away since nothing is holding it) - once you get the rear hose connected to the filter, now you can then disconnect the front hose from the front metal line again in order to push the filter to the side so you can re attach the rear hose clamps back on and adjust the hose if needed. -boom we are almost there, now we simply reconnect the front hose to the metal line and place the clamp back on and now we can push the filter into the housing and place the bracket back on and tighten it with the 10mm bolt. - now since we have the cowl cover off, we can reinstall the airbox much much easier and re assemble everything and BOOM we are done. i hope this method can help make this job a lot easier for you guys

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Wow Alejandro! The time it must have taken you to write this! First I want you to say thank you for taking the time to write this for the future viewers. And also for actually watching the video from beginning to end. 👍🏼. I’m glad you found this video helpful and were able to figure out your own method to complete the job! That’s what this is all about! Thank you again, and I hope you stick around for more future videos 👍🏼

[@paulhaney6449]

I agree, Alejandro…. you were instructions along with this video really were a game changer for me getting this job done

[@mikeburston7013]

You give good advice, and I wish I came across your video before I replaced my filter. Totally bent the u-pipe. Luckily I was able to compress the kink out as a temporary fix, because it's going to take weeks to get a replacement. Can definitely see this as being a common mistake for the folks who attempt this less common job.

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Oh no! Did it cause a puncture in the line? Periodically check it because if the fluid leaks out it can cause the trans to fail

[@mikeburston7013]

​@@HandsOnDismantler Luckily the pipe didn't puncture. It just bent in such a way that would restrict flow. As a temporary fix, I used a vise to work the kink out and it's been fine. The replacement pipe arrives this week, which means I'll get some practice doing the job over again 🤣

[@PlumbCarton5607]

Thanks for showing a good view of what's going will help alot alongside the online repair manual. Noticed last year that the transmission fluid is black and smelled like earth, recently started grinding. Thought since the fluid is that bad i might as well do the filter too. Car has 225,000 miles on it atm, not driving it until i do filter + fluid, parts arrived a few days ago will do it tomorrow.

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Don’t flush the fluid, did you just buy the car? Or you’ve owned it since new?

[@PlumbCarton5607]

@@HandsOnDismantler not doing a flush just a chaneg of 2.5qt. getting this from my mom over the past year but she doesn't remember much about it.

[@paulhaney6449]

This video was a life saver. Thank you so much

[@HandsOnDismantler]

You’re very welcome! Thank you for the support

[@MojoMedicineMan]

We have a 2007 Civic two door coupe with automatic transmission. The original engine was a Honda recall that had crack in the block. The replacement engine is the next step up model and is very low powered. We took it into another dealership to have the tranny fluid changed, as we found out that there was a superior Honda fluid upgrade from the original. It did seem to help the shifting and performance at first. I asked the mechanic there if they replaced the transmission filter? He looked dumbfounded and then laughed and said there isn't one to replace. Now, we discover via your video there is one. Also, the car is beginning to shudder between shifts. Any solid advice please? Change fluid to what type and or replace the transmission filter like you did? Thanks!

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Hello, I’m sorry you’re dealing that. Can I ask how many miles are on the transmission? Has it ever had work done to it? Or is it the original transmission?

[@MojoMedicineMan]

@@HandsOnDismantler Currently at 130K on the tranny. Again, we had the fluid changed to the newer fluid a few years ago. Now it's starting to shudder at low rpm before shifting. Perhaps changing the fluid and "filter" this time will help? Any advice will be appreciated. THANKS

[@HandsOnDismantler]

@@MojoMedicineMan I would start by checking the fluid and making sure it is at the proper level.

[@HandsOnDismantler]

@@MojoMedicineMan if it is at the proper level. Then I would either take it to a reputable shop to have them replace ONLY the filter and not the fluid. Depending if the fluid needs service or not (judge by how many miles you’ve driven since last service) it may help, it may not. But I believe you should see improvement after a filter change.

[@MojoMedicineMan]

@@HandsOnDismantler Thanks again!

[@EricVonHunter]

Probably a good idea ro remove rhe wiper cowl for more clearance.

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Honestly would be easier to just pull the entire engine 😂

[@hectorgutierrez2010]

Good information, thanks for sharing

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Thanks hector! Glad it helped you.

[@navjotheer4911]

If you do go from the underside, is it easier to access?

[@HandsOnDismantler]

It can be, just depends on how skinny you are lol.

[@Steady_IQ]

Thanks for this. Does it also have a transmission strainer at the bottom? Does that need to be replaced as well ? Also do all cars have both tranny filters and strainers?

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Nah just focus on the filter in the video and you’ll be great!

[@machineman6498]

Thank you for making this

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Hey you’re welcome! Thank you for supporting the channel.

[@Gabrielmedrano-ws1nh]

I have a 1.8 civic with a 5spd mt does my trans have this filter

[@brentparsons2661]

No. Only autos have the filter. The MT fluid change is very easy!!!

[@nickvargas5444]

Recently did it kinda difficult but manageable with patience but! Bent the bottom wire/pipe where the lowest hose goes. Bent back into place no leaks. Should i be ok??? 😮

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Awww noo! Did you watch the whole video?? I stated to be careful about that. It is possible just depends how rough you were with it. Put it all back together, start the car and carefully look for any leaks. Run it for about a min. Shut the veh off. Jack the front back up. You can crawl under the car and with a flash light, you can see the metal line. Make sure the engine isn’t hot, check and run your hand on it for leaks. If it feels smooth to the touch and there arnt any leaks, you should be ok. Just periodically check it. The other tricky part is making sure it’s not still “kinked” if it’s linked and doesn’t allow good oil flow, you could damage the transmission. Restricted oil flow will cause trans failure.

[@nickvargas5444]

@@HandsOnDismantler no leaks thank god lol be careful everyone the slightest pull of the hose will bend the lower pipe/wire. My hoses were kinda difficult to get off the filter I used bigger pliers where the clamps where with a rag over the hose and pulled. And sorry thanks for the video!!

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Np! Glad to hear it didn’t pinch the line and break it. Did you make sure it wasn’t kinked and can flow properly?

[@PlumbCarton5607]

​@@nickvargas5444oh god that sounds like a nightmare. Im gonna be doing it tomorrow. It's probably gonna be worse for me as rubber doesn't really like heat and it averages 95°f down here

[@brentjodrey5114]

does the filter actually ever need to be changed?

[@HandsOnDismantler]

It’s recommended to avoid it getting clogged. What happens is they get clogged over time and poor maintenance. That creates a lack of flow which in turn fails the transmission. It’s a cheap part to replace to avoid a expensive repair.

[@brentjodrey5114]

@@HandsOnDismantler I've never replaced it

[@tutuy-mm2be]

Can a bad transmission filter make your car feel a bit sluggish or like its lacking power?

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Very slightly but not much that you could notice. Unless the fluid was very dirty and clogging the filter. You’d notice more of hard shifts or delayed gear engagement. These engines themselves are VERY sluggish and being that they’re SOHC they’re built for economy. Not to go fast.

[@usmankhan-hw4nq]

After changing gear oil and filter how many km should we change again gear oil and filter

[@HandsOnDismantler]

50k for the oil and 100k for the filter

[@Doron7P]

What if putting a neodymium magnet like a 1" coin on that filter?

[@HandsOnDismantler]

I wouldn’t. Just allow it to do its job normally. And keep up on maintenance. You can try swapping the drain plug for one with a magnet if yours doesn’t have it already. But not at the filter.

[@ok99okok]

Bro , you are best

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Thanks lol! Let me know how it goes when you finish👍🏼

[@BlahBlah-we6kx]

I replace my filter with an OEM but was unable to clamp down the bracket with the bolt. Did you think the diameter of the filter has slightly changed ?

[@HandsOnDismantler]

No, it didn’t change. Especially if you used Honda oem. Try removing it and making sure everything is lining up. Unless it’s damaged or bent, there shouldn’t be a reason it’s not going back on. It’s a very tight space and hard to see area to work with. So it’s ok if you’re having issues. Take a step back, save your lower back😂 and try again. 👍🏼

[@alejandromorazan3420]

zip ties

[@striderXman]

Do you have to flush transmission fluid?

[@HandsOnDismantler]

No, you should never flush the transmission fluid. Only service

[@romeltuason1109]

Thanks Bro!

[@HandsOnDismantler]

You’re most welcome!

[@tristanmurillo2322]

Hi there, what is the interval for replacing this filter?

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Hondas interval recommendation is every 100k miles. My recommendation, is 50k miles if you do mostly city driving. And 100k miles of you mostly highway driving.

[@bcbjbggjh9102]

i'm going on 200,000 haven't change it once

[@joeyyung911]

@@HandsOnDismantler There is no interval. Honda don't suggest to replace it at all. Don't know where you come up with that number, must've worked at a stealership before.

[@ok99okok]

@@joeyyung911 hi, Honda agent said need to change 50k or 100k.fluid can be dirty after 100k. You use different fluid ? Can last long time?

[@keithbox1684]

I have a 2008 civic that I just replaced the tran filter and cleaned the throttle body. I notice a single red wire with what looks like a plastic pin about an inch long attached. I cannot find where it goes. Can someone help me out on what its for and if it attaches to anything? Thanks!

[@g-man-7525]

Hi anyone, after changing filter, I have all kinds of codes. Engine light on. Obd reader says engine coolant temperature sensor (po 118) and intake air temperature sensor, mass or volume air flow A circuit low. I'm sure it's cause of what I dud. I shoulda took off battery. Should I run-it maybe it will clear itself. Or take to shop. I cleared codes then turned on for a bit and light came back on. I didn't drive far enough. I'm on liver transplant list only car. Tried to save a Lil $ I might of bumped something loose. Temp reading was working backward but now ok. Anyone help please

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Go back and check the sensor connections in the area you were working. Sounds to me like you attempted to start the car before plugging everything back in. This will cause these codes to appear. Double check your connections make sure nothings damaged. Clear the codes once the work is complete, then drive the vehicle after and see if they re appear. If they do, then you may have damaged a wire somewhere in that area when working on the filter. Replacing the filter will not cause a check engine light even if you did it wrong. 👍🏼

[@g-man-7525]

@HandsOnDismantler thx. I cleared codes what I found is had to relearn throttle body reset. I had cleaned it a little. But guess I didn't know I had to do that

[@user-vw9kp8lm6u]

Que pasa si no se cambia ese filtro

[@HandsOnDismantler]

Hello, if you wait too long to change the filter is can become clogged with dirt and contaminates. If it ever restricts flow of fluid it can cause damage to the transmission. You can go 100k miles on these oem filters.

[@timothydean]

The guy in the other videos just did it. Without removing battery or pcm

[@HandsOnDismantler]

He doesn’t show it, but he does remove it.