Harvey HW 110S Master Rip Fence

[@barrydoxseyuk]

Interesting adjustments, however the rear Allen grub screws set the fence clamp down position, not the front gliders..

[@RayZde]

that is correct the front gliders are not for rip fence alignment. It's also no that easy to align the fence and can come off alignment rather easily. Harvey needs to add some sort of tightening mechanism like the front.

[@jjpiatek3294]

I scratched my rail too... I went to Auto Zone and bought some black touch up paint (the type in a pen) and I can hardly tell the scrath is there.

[@barrydoxseyuk]

O yes the scratch, I did the same, it is the clamp down pressure bar when it flips under the fence.

[@blackworx]

I have this fence and one annoyance is the fact that, due to the fence geometry, you can't use L clamps and drilled holes to quickly attach a sacrificial fence.

[@99trampis]

@JB Custom Woodworking I scratched the top of my front rail too. But mine was from me not realizing that the cinching bar that the handle presses against was on top of the rail instead of in front of it. Same scratches as yours. I cursed myself repeatedly lol.

[@Bryanthecellphoneguy]

Now that I think about it, that's probably what I did as well. I think Harvey needs to rewrite their owners manual warning about things like this. Overall I like the saw but the manuals are poorly written.

[@jac_builtWoodworks]

Same thing happened to me too, huge scratch, not happy.

[@mark93cobr]

Yeah. I did that too. Waited my whole life for such a saw. then- 30 minutes later created a scratch I'll be looking at for the next 20 years. Harvey needs to warn people about that.

[@emgriffiths9743]

Hmmm buddy's shop has one of these laying around as they went to a Big Eye, may see if it will fit my Unisaw

[@johnfrederickson3082]

The Harvey saw looks like the way to go.

[@rg9402]

This is a reply to Dennis’s comment below. Wanted to place it where it would have more exposure. Anybody else having this problem? Just got my saw and noticed a similar issue. Checked into it further and with the two knobs tightened I could move the rear of the fence up and down by hand fairly easily. The hi low fence needs a better attachment system, with support at the rear of the fence. Even better would be a dovetail type of attachment that would self center height wise so you would not have to set height every time you flip the fence from hi to low.

[@dennisdoherty3221]

One of my issues with the fence (over all very awesome) is that the two tension adjustors that hold the fence in place are both at the close end of the fence. I am having a hard time getting enough tension on those screws to keep the far end off the table. I have two credit cards I use to lift both ends of the aluminum extrusion off the table to set the fence height but the two tension screws on the near end of the fence cannot hold the far end in cantilever so after a day or two the far end scrapes on the table.

[@jbcustomwoodworking4155]

I dont seem to have issues with mine. It isn't important that the fence sits flat on the table. I have mine up about 1/8 of an inch and it seems to stay there. Most of the things I cut are 3/4 at least so nothing slips under it.

[@rg9402]

Just got my saw and noticed a similar issue. Checked into it further and with the two knobs tightened I could move the rear of the fence up and down by hand fairly easily. The hi low fence needs a better attachment system, with support at the rear of the fence. Even better would be a dovetail type of attachment that would self center height wise so you would not have to set height every time you flip the fence from hi to low.

[@davidmcmichael8113]

Those back nylon glides screws are not the ones to adjust the fence. You have to use the Allen screws on the inner portion of the rail to adjust the fence in relationship to the sawblade.

[@RossWilliamsDC]

Wondering if you have since upgraded to the Big-Eye fence?

[@jbcustomwoodworking4155]

Hi Ross, If I was ordering a new saw I would probably order the Big Eye but it makes no sense to spend $1500 to replace a perfectly good fence. There is simply no way for me to justify the cost.

[@WorkLoops]

Unifence! What's old is new again.

[@mike6811]

😂I did the same thing to my front rail!!

[@jbcustomwoodworking4155]

I am amazed by how many people have had this issue. It is such a simple fix for Harvey. All the have to do is round off the coners so it isn't sharp. I eventually took my angle grinder and did it myself. I do love the saw inspire of this.

[@fnicholasphoto]

Is this Harvey HW 110S Master Rip Fence available as a separate purchase?

[@jbcustomwoodworking4155]

Harvey does not list it as an accessory on their website but it must be available through their parts department for people who lose or damage theirs.

[@rodpotts2666]

How is the over blade dust collection working out for ya?

[@Bryanthecellphoneguy]

I actually removed it. After so many years working without Amy blade guards I just couldn't get used to the cover. I like to be able to see exactly where the blade contacts the wood and this hides it. I also found that the rollers sometimes interfered with me pulling the piece back after the cut. I may put it back on eventually but for now it's just in limbo.

[@Rayman-cd8bd]

It works very well

[@siriosstar4789]

Wouldn't it be better to set the fence parallel to the blade ?

[@jbcustomwoodworking4155]

I had to assume that the blade was square to the table from the factory and if you use the mitre groove or the seam it gives you a 29 inch reference instead if 10 inches if you use the blade as a reference. I figured longer was better.

[@CallCCT]

I just put the same scratch in my saw about 3 hours ago. There is no way that should happen straight out of the box.

[@jbcustomwoodworking4155]

It's amazing how many people do this. It would be a simple fix for them. I took the "tongue" off and rondaed the edges with a grinder. It does decrease the functionality but solves the problem. In my mind it should be done at the factory as part of the build process.

[@CallCCT]

@@jbcustomwoodworking4155 A piece of styrofoam or zip tie it open so people realize it is there.

[@clemoniii]

The brass set screws do NOT true the fence to the miter slot, they should not even touch the square tube the assembly rides on when the fence is in its LOCKED position. To "true" the fence to 90 degrees with the miter slot, you adjust the two steel set screws that are on the back side of the square tube the fence assembly rides on; then lock it and check for square. Those set screws are attached to large flat metal pads with a thin bit of nylon to prevent wear on the fence tube. The brass set screws with aluminum lock rings are just for adjusting the how tight or loose the fence is when sliding the fence left or right when the handle is UNLOCKED (in up position). When you move the locking handle down, it pinches the iron set screws on the back of the fence tube. FYI, you true the fence to the miter slot and you true the blade to the miter slot. That way EVERYTHING is square. Yes, I learned all this while re-re-reading the instructions after setting it up at least once. HINT. My blade arrived within .0002 inches of perfectly parallel of the miter slot. THIS IS GOOD ENOUGH because it is VERY, VERY hard to move a 3 part cast iron table in or out less than about 5 thousandths at a time. Ask me how I found out 🙂

[@msix79]

This is 100% correct!

[@Rayman-cd8bd]

How did you find out?😂

[@clemoniii]

@@Rayman-cd8bd install instructions and logic

[@jpmccue7]

It's a copy of the best fence ever, the Unifence

[@obwahnsvids]

Dude, I'm not positive but I think you have your high and low indicators reversed.

[@Bryanthecellphoneguy]

That's a really good observation. I thought the same thing. But that's how they came from the factory. The website shows low on the left and that does make sense. The owners manual shows high on the left. Now that I have the tape glued down and calibrated to high on the left, and the fact that I probably will never use the low fence I am just going to leave it. Thanks for your comment.

[@99trampis]

@@Bryanthecellphoneguy Mine came H on the left as well. And same here, just gonna leave it.

[@jac_builtWoodworks]

Mine came with the L on the left and H on right.

[@MixingGBP]

@@Bryanthecellphoneguy Yes the paper manual is wrong, the electronic manual is correct. The "L" button should be on the left side and the "H" on the right. Confirmed by my experiments and a call to Harvey in California. They admitted they wrote the paper manual wrong.

[@Arnie1846]

He does.

[@RayZde]

the low fence is kinda worthless, with it wasn't there. you really can't add attachments to it using the top t track on top.

[@jbcustomwoodworking4155]

The only thing I have ever used the low fence for is cutting door that have the veneer sticking out past the body. I can set the fence so that it goes over and under and the body rests on the fence. I have also made the mistake of reading the wrong site glass on the fence and cutting a piece wrong because of it. Now i have a piece of electrical tape over the second one so it doesn't happen again.

[@preformancemustang]

I hate my master rip fence. To complicated to more right to left on the blade. My old grizzly saw fence was way better. Didn’t have to change any adjustments. Just lower blade and side to the left side of blade.

[@jbcustomwoodworking4155]

I agree that there are some advantages to the older style fence but I like the ability to slide it back when using a mitre gauge in combination with the fence. The high low feature is also a benefit when trimming veneers on cupboard doors.

[@Rayman-cd8bd]

All I have to do is lower the blade on mine to move it to the left side. I don’t understand what you’re saying.

[@preformancemustang]

@@Rayman-cd8bd you have to move the fence to the opposite side of the fence arm to cut on the left side of the blade. Like the old style fence it has a fence face on both sides of the fence arm!!!