Wood Gas Stove Science| Paint Can Wood Gas Stove Optimization! Making a good stove GREAT! Part 3!

This portion of the Wood Gas Stove Science Series will be devoted to optimizing the beloved Quart Paint Can Wood Gas Stove. I want to make a good stove GREAT!! This is Part 3.
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The Wood Gas Stove SCIENCE series is an attempt to learn the science behind and how to optimize wood gas stoves. There are many videos of people drilling random holes in random cans and they are great! I have watched most of them and that is where I got my inspiration for this series. I will not show you how to build one until I have an optimized stove design. I am trying to find the correct ratio of can size, fresh air intake, primary and secondary air ports.
Thanks for watching and please stay tuned for more videos in this series.
Wood Gasifier, Wood Gas Stove, Paint Can Stove, Hobo Stove, Camp Fire, Burner, Wood Burner

[@bumboclat]

Only now did I notice that you choked the fresh air inlet, when you would actually rather want to choke the primary air only. For my test stove I used a can lid that I drilled just like the primary inlet, riveted it to the inner can bottom, and attached a wire that goes to the outside. I rotate that lid and that chokes off primary air only, not secondary. works pretty well for cooking/simmering.

[@justbill]

Holy crap, nice work man. That flame concentrator and damper are top notch. Could you add something like that to a solo stove mesa?

[@heathputnam9524]

Probably, they are the same concept. Thanks for the comment!

[@melissahoffman4687]

Congratulations on making your wood gas stove adjustable! :)

[@heathputnam9524]

The concept works! The mechanism needs a more elegant solution! Thanks again for being an active subscriber!

[@melissahoffman4687]

@@heathputnam9524 Anytime! Keep up the great work! Are you going to try the vegetable steamer as a gasifier in a paint can?

[@louiexavier6058]

Nice, very well explained.

[@heathputnam9524]

Thanks for the comment!

[@piebald]

Thanks for another great episode Heath

[@heathputnam9524]

Thanks for watching!

[@nate-408]

Thank you for all this great info.

[@heathputnam9524]

Thanks for watching!

[@robertjolliffe2612]

Great work thanks. Australia

[@heathputnam9524]

Thanks again for watching!

[@Andy-il7kf]

This is great thank you, and to all the people who gave you the ideas! I just built a couple of these things out of 800g and 540g / 400g tin cans and tried them out wild camping on the stunning Moray coast here in NE Scotland. I will now jazz up winner (the 540) with damper and concentrator. These are such fun projects and I swear the coffee tastes better when you built the stove you made it on. And they are much lighter than the equivalent ones you can buy unless you pay $$$ for titanium. PS I found having a large window on one side of the pot stand is good to have, so you can keep refueling without moving the pot, but maybe you tested that idea already in your other videos. Great work thanks for the video!

[@heathputnam9524]

Thanks for the comments!

[@scotta7164]

Thank you for your continued video series on the biogas stoves. When I saw your inlet air dampener, I would like to recommend a product I have used a lot for both my biogas and rocket stoves. Most home centers have what is called roll valley flashing (which is used for roof flashing). It is super easy to form, and is much lower cost (per sq inch/ft) than using another can for the air dampener. I have a 25' roll that I have been using for a long time for wind shields for the stoves and pots (as well as other functions). You could use this for your air dampener as well. If you use it for a pot or stove wind screen, you can make a circle with the flashing about 2 " larger diameter than your pot, cut the flashing material where it overlaps plus about 2-3 inches, then cut two holes though both pieces where in this overlap area (using the unibit) and simply use two paper clips (one going through each hole) to hold the wind screen together as a circle. Very light weight and one can take it apart by removing the paper clips. A nice wind break for about 75 cents using this method. Hope it helps.

[@heathputnam9524]

Hey thanks! Good to find a fellow experimenter! Thanks for the comment!

[@stevenabernethy1133]

@@heathputnam9524 seeing this kind of collaboration is powerfully inspiring and rewarding to see. Great work

[@heathputnam9524]

Thanks for watching as well as reading the comments!

[@therical77]

Thx

[@heathputnam9524]

Thanks for watching!

[@cibbantwist]

Thank you for putting in the work and doing the science! Interestingly, you took up the project again on the exact same day I got bitten by the wood gas bug. Serendipity? Maybe. Awesome either way. :)

[@heathputnam9524]

Hopefully this info helps you out! Thanks for watching!

[@cibbantwist]

@@heathputnam9524 It's helped me a lot already, actually. :)

[@joancandalino8742]

Any modifications needed to use with sticks instead of pellets? Perhaps open a section of the pot stand to be able to feed without removing the pot?

[@heathputnam9524]

I will do some burn tests using sticks soon to see what modifications are needed. I use pellets while experimenting to keep the fuel source consistent so I am sure I am making the right changes. Thanks for the comments!

[@NewHampshireJack]

@@heathputnam9524 Agreed, remove as many variables as possible, so wood pellets are a wise choice for your experiments. Where I reside (Philippines) the only wood pellets I have ever seen are used as a base for cat litter. That may well be OK for a burn test but no one would want to try cooking over something laced with many unknown substances. This is another reason we are so thankful that you steadfastly did so much work on these great stoves and took the time to create instructional videos and post them.

[@Ajantha-l3k]

It took more time due to heat lose. Doing Out side.👍

[@aparecidomiranda6637]

Ótimo vídeo Parabéns 👍🇧🇷

[@heathputnam9524]

Merci!

[@tedstoker403]

@tedstoker403 1 second ago Thanks for figuring out all these very imortant details for max efficiency. I saw your 2 previous videos, but I still do not understand how the pyrolyisis zone is oxygen-free ( or even low oxygen). I understand how the fire ring on top caps off the pyrolysis chamber , but doesn't oxygen enter the double wall chamber through the outer air inlet holes around the bottom? I guess I am missing something.

[@heathputnam9524]

I have a lot of videos on the subject… I have a playlist on my channel that I suggest watching. It show my knowledge progression. It should answer all your questions. If you still have questions after watching the series please ask. Thanks for watching.

[@joaomrtins]

Basically all the primary oxygen is burned up in the lower inner can. Above it is the pyrolysis zone and the secondary air inlet burns the gas generated in the pyrolysis zone.

[@kerrisupton2452]

How long will one single load burn?

[@joancandalino8742]

Do you still get a clean burn when this is damped down?

[@heathputnam9524]

The burn is not as clean and you lose a lot of efficiency, but everyone wants to be able to simmer;) thanks for the question!

[@Ajantha-l3k]

Your pot holder has a rim. It traps some carbon dioxide air layer between the flame and the pot. Therefore, there is a thermal insulation between the flame and the bottom of the pot. Remove the rim.