Homemade T12 Digital Soldering Station ( Arduino Nano )

[@komarudineuis8070]

a little advice sir, if using Firmware version 1.7 try turning off line code 173, and turning on line 174, so that your Oled display is perfect... enjoy :)

[@HMProjects]

Thanks for the advice, I will try it. With the 0.96 inch display there is no problem, I only got this problem with the 1.3 inch display.

[@amthones5948]

hiii bro ..why the display still error even already plug the solder, temp still zero & the mosfet is over heating? whats the problem?

[@Evilslayer73]

Hi do you have the BOM list for this model?

[@bakonyi72]

Hello Sir, I am an avid amateur and would like to ask you for a complete parts list. Thanks.

[@Evilslayer73]

yes i want it too!:)

[@vencislavvankov4897]

Hello! I want to ask about the Sleep feature. When is this feature on: - when SW is connected to E or - when SW is not connected to E This matters to mount Tilt Switch in the handle

[@HMProjects]

Hi. It enters in sleep mode when the switch is not connected, otherwise it will enter in sleep every time you move the handle.

[@vencislavvankov4897]

@@HMProjects Thanks! Because it matters if the handle stands with the top of the top or top down. This is important for mounting the sensor.

[@raffaelebarlotti9017]

Hi, I'm making this project but I realized that some problem in the diagram for the connection of the two PCBs, the 7 pins do not match, the labeling is wrong. Could you please correct? I made PCB V2. Thank you.

[@HMProjects]

Hi Raffaele. I will update all the files as soon as possible, I'm working and don't have time right now. I will correct the labels and also I noticed that the pcb files are mirrored, so I will corect that as well.

[@vencislavvankov4897]

Hello! Greeting for 2 version of the project. Here the readings are no longer changing. That was very bad for the eyes. What changes did you do in the code?

[@HMProjects]

Hi and thanks for the greetings. On the software I did only small tweaks on the PID control and direct control. Mainly I redesigned the PCB, but the main problem was that I made a mistake when I made the schematic, in order to have the same footprint of the electrolytic capacitors I place same values (10uF) where was needed and and having in mind to change it later but I forgot ( facepalm :)). ) and when I place the components on the PCB on the instead to place on the C13 a value of O.47uF ( C13 should be between 100nF and 1uF ) I placed 10uF capacitor. And now that I realized where the problem was and fixed both versions are equally good. Now I'm thinking to make a more compact version and use an external power supply, when finish it I will post an update video.

[@vencislavvankov4897]

@@HMProjects Thanks for your quick and detailed answer !!! Can you tell what program did you design the boards? And can you also give PCB files?

[@HMProjects]

@@vencislavvankov4897 I'm using EasyEDA online for years, for me is the best. In the video description is a link to all the necessary files, pcb files for both versions, schematic, software, everything you need to make this soldering station. One mention, only the front panel that I used in this version I didn't include in the files because I made to my needs, it depends what enclosure you use or how you want it to be mounted, that's way everyone has to make it how it works best for him.

[@vencislavvankov4897]

@@HMProjects Thank you so much! I wish you good luck!

[@vencislavvankov4897]

Hello again! I could not find your Easyeda project. Can you give a link to it?

[@vencislavvankov4897]

Hello! I have made your station option. But I have the following problem. Many "dance" display values. If 320 degrees is set - goes to 380 sit down to 280 and up again. I used a LM358 operating amplifier. Then I changed it with MCP607, which has very good parameters. But there was no change. You have an idea of ​​what this is due. For PID I use Stefan's library that applies.

[@HMProjects]

Hi. Try to reduce the value of the capacitor C13 in the schematic I provided, it has to be between 100nf and 1uf ( electrolytic), it works best for me with 1uf and 19V power supply and the power supply has to be well stabilized. I had same problem and I also blamed the LM358 but it turns out to be that capacitor. I personally use it with Direct Control of the tip, with PID Control it's still "jumps" a few times until the temperature it settles and then it stays rock solid. Let me know if you solved the issue, I will try to help you as much as I can.

[@vencislavvankov4897]

@@HMProjects I have put 1uf not an electrolytic capacitor. Can try with 470 nf or 220 nf. Do you have a 100 nF capacitor in the soldering handle? You do not use PID adjustment. Is that correct? Have you tried with version 1.8 How does it work?

[@HMProjects]

@@vencislavvankov4897 First question: I believe it has but I'm not sure, probably it's for decoupling or may be across the two terminals of the heating element and I don't think it will affect the temperature readings. Second question: Yes I mostly used with direct control of the tip and sometimes I use it with PID control, but I have to make some test to see in each mode is more accurate and each mode is maintaining better the temperature of the tip while soldering. And last question: The 1.8 version is an UI upgrade made by CreateSkyBlue, 1.8t is an test version ( beta) and yes I've tried but was not complaining with the Arduino Nano. Have you solved the problem with the temperature readings?

[@vencislavvankov4897]

@@HMProjects Hi! Works perfectly with 19 volt power. No PID control. I changed C13 capacitors from 47nF to 3.3 UF and C8 from 1NF to 100nf - no rally in operation. When powering different from 19 volts does not work stable. I also wrote to Stefan about it. I offered him to correct the program so that when the temperature value is reached, only this display value is displayed. Version 1.8 Stefan has officially put.

[@HMProjects]

@@vencislavvankov4897 I didn't know that Stefan released the 1.8 version, I have to try it. I'm not sure why your station behaves like that 🤔, this one from this video is perfectly stable at 24v and I've made a third one more compact and use it with an external power supply, is only 5x7cm and it's stable as well at 19v and 24v, probably I will post a video about it and share the pcb. I'm currently working on an soldering iron like TS100 based on the same schematic and software, I already changed the fonts in the code to fit everything on the smaller 0.91 inch display and still have to modify the code to use buttons instead of rotary encoder. Hopefully I will have time to finish it because I'm quite busy with work.

[@fajarsan329]

What the main difference with the previous version?

[@HMProjects]

Most of it I redesigned the pcb. I moved the OA closer to the microcontroller, I changed the L7805 regulator with a buck converter because it was running a bit hot and on the software I changed couple of things as well. But now that I fix the problem with the temperature readings both versions are equally good.

[@fajarsan329]

@@HMProjects Thank you

[@Truong-Dang-Jav]

Can you make the circuit more compact?

[@HMProjects]

I believe it's possible with a double sided pcb and using the ATmega328 microcontroller IC or SMD version. Maybe I will make it in the future.

[@Truong-Dang-Jav]

@@HMProjects hope you will release v3 soon

[@madurdananjaya5705]

sir,will this work for hakko solder iron?

[@HMProjects]

If it is from Hakko FX-951 which uses t12 tips, yes it will work. If it is from another Hakko soldering station like Hakko 907, I'm not sure if it will work because this has the heating element and the thermocouple separate, and on the T12 tips the heating element and the thermocouple is in series, so it uses only two contact points to power up the heating element and to make the temperature measurements from the thermocouple.

[@madurdananjaya5705]

@@HMProjects Thank you sir !, any modification can do to add hakko 907 series soldering iron?

[@HMProjects]

@@madurdananjaya5705 You can try to put the heating element and the thermocouple in series. With a multimeter make some measurements to see which one is which, usually the heating element has a higher resistance and the thermocouple has a lower resistance, then connect them in series. On the T12 tips the total resistance is about 8 Ohms. If it works keep in mind that heating time will be much longer than with the T12 tips and the response time to temperature changes will be much slower with the 907 handle it will have that thermolag, which means that even if the heating element reaches 300 degrees the tip itself it takes a bit longer to reach that temperature. With the T12 tips there is no such problem.

[@madurdananjaya5705]

@@HMProjects Thank you very much sir,really appreciate your work.👍