10 Science-Based Ways to Get Stronger in Half the Time (Training for Climbing)

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Episode 138
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⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
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#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

[@HoopersBeta]

👉 One thing we didn't mention in this video that is *absolutely key* to training efficiently is: consistency. Inconsistent training yields poor results. How do you stay consistent? Make it as CONVENIENT as possible. ➡ Shameless plug: Just another reason to get a convenient doorway mount from Frictitious ;). Hop on this 20% off deal (no promo code, drill, or complicated setup required): frictitiousclimbing.com/collections/all

[@frictitiousclimbing4991]

As a time-pressed business owner, this is an absolute gem. Definitely will be coming back to this one!

[@HoopersBeta]

💪💪 thanks for making an awesome product AND supporting us!! Small businesses ftw!

[@valentinagolac8122]

The 20% discount didn’t seem to go through when I clicked on the link

[@HoopersBeta]

Did you add a hangboard + doorway mount to the cart?

[@averytataryn5]

I ordered the hangboard + doorway mount, very excited to find a hangboard I can actually use! I can't drill into my apartment walls so this should be a great solution.

[@xNajda]

#11 I'd add, and probably the most important: Stay consistent. If thinking too much about your training causes mental fatigue and decreases motivation to the point where you abandon the routine after 3 weeks, then it doesn't matter how good the training program was! Minimalist training works because you're making steady progress over a long time, so sticking with it is very important.

[@HoopersBeta]

(Read the pinned comment 😜)

[@xNajda]

@@HoopersBetaDoh, of course!

[@spencerwinchester4520]

I really like the in depth approach you take on all your content and thanks for this helpful video today! There is a huge focus in current climbing culture on training/strength/gym climbing and less a focus on onsighting and redpointing routes/boulders on real rock. The amount of people I see absolutely crushing in the gym vs. the amount of people I see at local crags sending anecdotally leads me to believe the emphasis on training/strength/gym does not correlate to increased performance as much as we think it will, at least not for most. I would love to see you do a series that takes us out of the dojo and into the arena, I would totally join for that :)

[@danielbeall7725]

I think you may be seeing something of a false correlation there, but thanks for the feedback! We are always interested in hearing what you guys would like to see next! What kind of video would you imagine might showcase “leaving the dojo”? Taking a group of predominantly gym climbers outside for a weekend or something? Trying to look at differences somehow between climbers who take part in supplemental training and some who don’t? See if we can find some unicorns they only climb outside? Something else? Thanks for the suggestion!

[@missedthat1534]

*11 : make sure you eat enough (and enough proteins)

[@HoopersBeta]

💯 💯 (that should be implicit in the “recovery” section), but definitely good to clarify!!

[@bullydungeon9631]

I work 70+ hour weeks and don't get to climb much but I've been able to inch my way up grades when I have the chance to climb by doing basically everything stated here

[@eurekaflows]

4:22 "Speaking of ... number 4 .. supercharge your ..." LOL the way it was set up like it was about to be an ad-read. I was like, "Alright, here we go. We finally lost Hooper to a Supercharged Collagen sponsorship" 😂

[@HoopersBeta]

Hahaha nah, need to see some better evidence before we hop on the collagen train

[@danielbeall7725]

Nevvvvvverrrr

[@Matt44k4]

Hi There, Big fan of your videos, thanks for posting these! I was wondering if you could give a general recommendation on a training schedule or point me into the direction of one of your resources. I have watched a lot of your videos and looked at other resources, and I can't find a general consensus on a 7-day schedule. Based on your videos, I made the judgment call to do strength training. However, I am not sure how many times per week I should do a singular strength routine vs how many climbs vs other days (rest/cardio/mobility). I would like to climb 2-3 days per week, but with this, I am not sure how I should fit in strength training and improve my mobility, and resting. If you have resources or suggestions covering this, I would appreciate it! I am a V3/V4 climber for reference.

[@petergbeal]

great video per usual

[@gijswensma5110]

Really good video again! How do you think about stretching and doing strength training? Will the stretching effect how much power we can give in an excercise?

[@Fiiggy]

Good question

[@rogv772]

I love the sound effects

[@jacoboblanco1555]

On the failure front, you can also consider your choice of exercises so that you pick stuff that’s easier to bail on. Think about barbell vs dumbbell bench press; one is scary to fail on the other not so much.

[@HoopersBeta]

Great point!

[@shadownukepie3532]

faster & harder sets are good, but it's important to note that a slow, controlled eccentric is BIG for making time and fatigue efficient gainz

[@danielbeall7725]

That’s a good point, but more important for hypertrophy work, and not strictly necessary even then.

[@danielbeall7725]

And technically, eccentrics are about as fatiguing as possible. So time efficient maybe, fatigue efficient, probably not. Important for braking strength and other adaptations though, so I’m not suggesting one skip eccentrics. Just that they don’t really need to be loooong

[@zackwilliams2170]

I got a frictitious hangboard + doorway mount a couple years ago to get through a short covid lockdown in NZ - good plug, they're reliable. P.S. I've watched this vid three times - it's very useful for reflecting on and evaluating the effectiveness of my current training!

[@HiImBQ]

To me the studies about maximal strength only requiring ~3-5 sets of, say, 80-85 1RM a week is mind blowing to me. I was still on the information level, that you'd need 3-4 sets of that 3 times a week to significantly boost strength. But if I can achieve 80-90% of that outcome by essentially only doing a half or even a third of that volume, hell yeah. Why suffering through all the sets then? It's not like I need to get stronger in a short time. The rest of the video was also great. To me especially the door mount. Europe has some as well, which is really nice!

[@asdffsdafdsafdsa7877]

very happy to see supersetting in there and that The Science backs it up. not happy to see that slower reps aren't great

[@yercules]

Nice simple and effective tips that gets people training! Another thing I would recommend as a minimalist training method is overcoming isometrics. It's extremely time efficient and some studies show significant performance gains compared to con- or eccentric contraction. The problem with this method of training is that it's hard to measure strength output during a set, so further development and solutions are needed. I think this could be an interesting video topic for you all!

[@HoopersBeta]

Send a link to the studies if you feel like it!

[@HiImBQ]

@@HoopersBeta I couldn't find the particular studies, but overcoming isometrics seems to be indeed really good for maximum strength. For me, the caveats are that it's an enormous stress on the CNS and the strength gain compared to what you suggest in the video doesn't seem significant enough to warrant that, esp. since you can't measure it properly (unless you have expensive devices). It's an optimisation you can keep in mind if you like it, but other than than it's the same as the minimalist vs maximalist approach debate, imho.

[@yercules]

@@HoopersBeta pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11717228 pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/1400055/

[@paulgaras2606]

“Pieces of kit” Hoopers beta been hanging out with the brits

[@HoopersBeta]

😂 we did recently hang out with Hannah and Nathan from Hannah Morris Bouldering

[@benbobben]

Thanks for the info, I really struggle for motivation on strength training, I have been kinda aimlessly doing short workouts were I do random excercises, would be good if you could suggest a few plans for beginners including reps, sets, rst time to make the most of the info you provided. Thamks again

[@HoopersBeta]

I found it a lot easier to get motivated when I decided to stick to just a few exercises at a time and actually focus on progressing them (and writing down my numbers!). It becomes a game that way, and I get excited to push myself each session. Also, a lot of the info you’re wanting is in this video (general recs for sets, reps, rest time, etc). There’s even a basic training plan at the end. Basically: pick a few functional exercises, learn proper form and try really hard, rest and come back to the gym recovered, and then try really hard again and keep progressing the difficulty. Thinking in terms of “I have to stick to this exact rep range and this exact number of sets” will only limit you. -Emile

[@alexgalays910]

Nice one again! What about a climber who has a lot of free time and flexibility to create a good week schedule but just don't have that much work capacity? (max I can do is about 3 climbing sessions per week, about 2hrs each + a single strength and conditionning sesh, I need a lot of warming up but then I try pretty hard (flash to flash+2 grades); I never, ever found it realistic to also include fingerboarding even though I have pretty weak fingers for my grade (tall and could lose some weight) What's the ideal way to split the sessions across the week? Or do people respond very differently to even that?

[@danielbeall7725]

Ideal is always individual dependent. But it’s helpful to remember that work capacity is trainable, just like anything else. So slowly try to do a little more from week to week, and the body will come along. Fingerboard should be done at the start of workouts, and don’t need to be excessively long. If anything, it will help you reduce your warm up time.

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

Damn you guys are getting really good at integrating the ads in these videos.

[@HoopersBeta]

Doing our best to please the audience and the sponsors simultaneously :)

[@wrongbeta]

This is the video that my 36yrs old self was needing badly 🙏🏼

[@HoopersBeta]

💯

[@puppetnoob927]

For hangboarding before a climbing session to warm up, what do you do? Like how many sets of what?

[@HoopersBeta]

I just do my normal max hangs as part of my warm up. Number of sets and exact method will vary by individual! -Emile

[@SSSFanBoy11]

Mike Mentzer revolutionized how I approach my gym days

[@wildliveunit292]

what is a puddy crimp and a Palm crimp position? just heard of full half etc. can you give a short explanation on that? its mentioned in you fully rehab level program. Thanks alot

[@HoopersBeta]

Putty and palm crimp aren’t crimp positions, they’re just methods for rehabbing or testing your fingers for injury. They’re both exactly what they sound like: crimping a piece of putty or your palm.

[@wildliveunit292]

Thank you @@HoopersBeta

[@ryanwsu4]

Haven’t most climbing coaches (do to the performance phase or lack there of in climbing, ie; we don’t have a specific date) passed up the idea of periodization. For example, I believe Steve Bechtel specifically writes against periodization. (Logical progression, his book,took me from 12c to 13a in one season. Not that I partially love his method. I just want to optimize training)

[@danielbeall7725]

All training is “periodized” insofar as there is some sort of long term plan, and elements change over time. Beyond that, there is a spectacular lack of agreement and understanding of what periodization is. Some climbing coaches, based on their own experience, are opposed to certain periodization models. Some seem to quite like them.

[@HoopersBeta]

We actually talked about this in one of the recent "Hype vs Reality" videos we did. I think the main issue with periodization in climbing is that people try to take protocols from other sports (or research on other sports) and force them on climbers, which doesn't work that well. But periodization itself is really just a simple concept of dividing your training up, which allows you to focus on specific things rather than "everything all at once." That's not to say you have to completely neglect everything else during a training block; it's just about prioritizing. When taken as a flexible concept rather than a rigid protocol it has benefits, especially if you're limited on time or just have other hobbies. -Emile

[@davecummiskey9597]

The chair at 5:35? Is it stretching along with you?

[@tatimondragon]

Jeff Nippard's minimalist routine aka the essentials program would be a great option for people wanting a strength-based program. I've been doing it for almost a year now and have definitely felt stronger in the gym and on the wall. I do Jeff's two days a week version, with each being a full body routine.

[@danielbeall7725]

Solid recommendation, thanks!

[@derpy4568]

I think you should make a video on building strength vs mass for climbing, if you have already can somebody send me a link?

[@emilymyers5490]

The article you source at the beginning of this video seemed to me to only study men which made it hard to trust that these tips would be helpful for me. do you have any sources that are more inclusive or study women athletes ?

[@justhenrik4179]

RP argues against rest timers because your body works as the clock, thoughts on letting your body determine when you are ready to go again? does this method not transfer well to climbing?

[@JoelStudies]

I think it transfers well. You want high quality goes each time and listening to your body is always a good idea to avoid injury especially if you’re working at max effort

[@HoopersBeta]

There is absolutely merit to listening to your body! But if you’re on a time crunch you need to make every minute count + most people will easily lose track of time during rests by looking at stuff in their phone or talking with friends. A timer is just a guide. You don’t have to stick to it down to the second, but it will help you avoid rapid firing or taking excessively long rests by accident. -Emile

[@zacharylaschober]

while I do not use timers and encourage folks to ditch strict timers, especially finger protocol timers, I am attending to a style of timer which is akin to what Dr. Mike suggests. Most folks rest too long without reason when using timers, but to the point of quality is most folks rest too short if not attending to interset recovery. Thus, I agree with the point made here.

[@Kyle_climbing]

I don’t know why you aren’t marketing for a good coffee sponsorship.

[@HoopersBeta]

Seriously! Waiting on those coffee companies to hit us up!

[@nut6043]

Why should finger boarding only be done before and not after a climb session? Thanks for the informative vid

[@Thtk1d]

You are much more likely to injure yourself.

[@TheXeeman]

number 0 rule: dont get injured! fastest way to get stronger is not getting hindered by injuries

[@Treevago]

Would it effect my rock climbing session much if I did a push,pull and squats set for a hour and then climb for a hour after. My sessions at the gym are always limited to 2 hours

[@HoopersBeta]

It certainly could, depending on the intensity and amount of rest time you took. If your goal was for general fitness and you enjoy that routine that's OK. If 1 goal is general fitness and the other to improve at rock climbing I would probably shift some time towards climbing and use the push/pull/squat as a warm up (if you're performing it prior to climbing).

[@Treevago]

@@HoopersBeta if I wanted to do it to get much stronger when would be a good time to the push/pull/squat. I go m/w/f for 2 hour sessions

[@danielbeall7725]

Could do the strength at the end of session to privilege climbing performance. Could, if you’re disciplined enough, mix strength into the climbing workout (do a few boulders, take rest - 5 to 10 min, and do a strength superset, return to climbing) and do this 3-5 times within your session. Can take some practice to dial in, but ought to leave the most time available of the options. Otherwise, find a way to do strength on other days.

[@benghiskahn3673]

Yes. Absolutely. Gym training after climbing would be more logical, however you should try to limit volume on body parts that are heavily involved in climbing. I find it better to climb and train on the same day as staggering basically renders me fatigued all week.

[@TheMCmushroom]

Hey new to the channel - can you do low effort long running - jogging to improve climbing? Thanks man c

[@HoopersBeta]

What aspect of your climbing are you looking to improve with jogging?

[@leonardocosta2035]

This just makes climbing feel like a job

[@HoopersBeta]

Luckily we don’t force you to do it :P

[@atariks1475]

So, what are horizontal push and pull exercises I wonder now?

[@HoopersBeta]

We’ve got a full guide that explains all the main planes of movements and corresponding exercises. It’s called “How to Train for Climbing.” An example of horizontal pulling is a row. And example of horizontal pushing is a bench press.

[@atariks1475]

@@HoopersBeta Ah okay, thanks a lot for the fast answer :D

[@maximilianocarrasco8455]

nice info, I'd suggest to take into account TL (Training load) (A.U.) = RPE x session duration (min). we can start from there to make a suitable training plan for every person.

[@sewerynkaczmarczyk6113]

Should climber who only prefers bouldering train power endurance?

[@HoopersBeta]

Certainly, it's great to not get pumped out at the end of your send and punt off on the last move!

[@mcscronson]

Shadow clone jutsu

[@jackharbor3347]

Points 1 and 2 might really confuse newer climbers. The data you present only takes into account strength training for muscles but not for tendons. Someone might try hangboarding with these principles and it could potentionally go wrong.

[@uploadsnstuff8902]

Frictitious link doesn't work?

[@HoopersBeta]

? It takes you right to the website. You don’t need a promo code or anything, just pick a hangboard and pair it with a doorway mount :)

[@uploadsnstuff8902]

@@HoopersBeta It seems that linkly doesn't like VPNs 😅

[@nadzianyx]

the wifi at the hospital where i work also apparently doesn't trust it, flagged as 'malicious content' 🤷‍♀️

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for the heads up! I swapped out the links for one that should be less "threatening" to overactive firewalls lol

[@derekhackert4585]

Why should hangboarding be done only before training?

[@HoopersBeta]

Among other reasons, climbing tends to tax the fingers a fair amount over the course of a session, but not necessarily with the consistency or intensity we want/need for strength gains. Strength training exercises (including fingerboarding) will not give us the adaptations we want to the degree we want them if we perform the exercises in a highly fatigued state. Therefore, we fingerboard before climbing, not after. -Emile

[@kwcnasa]

I bet you can't send this, Jason. ‘Real-life Spider-Girl’ watches TV from ceiling from South China Morning Post, published on 2023SEP25.

[@mrmoorash]

How about science based advertisement of very expensive ag1, em?

[@dnavdeej]

i love coffee! (i really am an addict and i want jason to be my best friend)

[@HoopersBeta]

Hello there!

[@triplea657aaa]

Or you could do my favorite method and just climb then find some time to climb and then climb and then do some climbing

[@HoopersBeta]

Don't forget about climbing though.

[@triplea657aaa]

Rest day? What's that?

[@HoopersBeta]

This thing where you... [wait for it] don't climb in order to make better/more efficient climbing days. If that's your thing of course ;)

[@larryseibold4287]

A lot of good data there. Two thoughts: First slightly off topic, is never arrive / start a training session in a caloric deficit (or electrolyte). Apply planed diet restrictions in your post session recovery time. My other thought is with regards to speed. It seems more complicated than what was presented. set speed, rep speed, concentric speed and eccentric speed are all independent variables, as is the related concept of supper setting (you also bring this up). While explosive (fast) concentric movements clearly have there place, I think that there is a place for slow powerful eccentrics in some muscle groups for strength and tendon work. Supper setting big to small of the same muscle group (pushing) is a good practice to target muscles in a rapid way. SS opposites (push + pull) speeds things up, like in HIT, but in my opinion does a poor job of strength building through progressive resistance, due to the fatigue curve. One last thought. What works well at 25 tends to not work so well when one is over 60 :(. One needs to adapt or...

[@LuLzezRoflcopter]

Only flaw I see here is going fast vs slow during exercise. Both techniques are great BUT one isn’t better than the other. I think going faster focuses more on explosive power, easier to do more weight vs taking reps slow with pause at the bottom is more hypertrophic/muscle building but each rep will be harder, so less weight is necessary

[@LuLzezRoflcopter]

The answer is what do you want out of the exercise. If goal is to build the muscle bigger, imo slow with pause is better. If goal is to lift heavier weight now, and build more explosive power then going fast with no pause is better. This is basic body building exercise stuff, I figured y’all would kno this? Am I missing something?

[@LuLzezRoflcopter]

Is the idea if you’re only lifting once a weak then it’s better to go with the heavier weight?

[@HoopersBeta]

This video is about building strength for climbing, so we're prioritizing things that lead to strength adaptations over hypertrophy, like fast hard reps. Not to say that some hypertrophy won't happen, just that we're not trying to maximize it.

[@danielbeall7725]

More importantly hypertrophy will happen equivalently when # of hard sets are matched. So if I want hypertrophy at low intensity I can do high reps or slow reps. If I want to build relative strength, I would do higher intensity, lower reps, and intentional speed. In a statistical sense, as long as you do the same number of sets of your chosen method, hypertrophy will be the same. For climbing, most of the time, relative strength is paramount, so unless there is a specific reason to do otherwise, a “strength” based intervention is the way to go. Slow reps, pauses, and long eccentrics are some methods to approach failure. They are neither the only, nor the best ways to induce hypertrophy. (Though they can of course work quite well in some circumstances)

[@LuLzezRoflcopter]

@@HoopersBeta Ahh I understand thanks! And yeah in hindsight should've known this was specifically designed to build strength for rock climbers *face palm*