How to Plan Your Climbing Training: Troubleshooting!

Planning your weekly sessions and managing them in with your lifestyle and outdoors climbing (also potentially other sports) is a pretty complex subject! For some people, it's quite simple as they know they have just 2 sessions a week, the days never change and their schedule is entirely predictable. For others, they are trying to work on how to plan 3-5 sessions a week, manage recovery, work a 9-5 job and find time to relax. Not simple! Maybe this is you?!
In this video (as promised in our previous training plan Q&A) we've taken 3 real life climbers - one of them being a Lite Plan client - and helped them plan out their weeks. Tom and Ollie work through what to look for, why they order the training certain ways and some of the options you have during your week.
Key areas looked at are:
1. Ordering - how do we deal with stacking of training intensities
2. Recovery - what's enough and when is best?
3. Priorities & focus - in what scenarios do we need to create more focus?
4. Overall loading - is it possible to do too much, too often?
Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: latticetraining.com/plans/
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[@Eirud]

The biggest mistake many people make when it comes to exercise in general be it bodybuilding, climbing, or athletics is that they think the training is the most important part of becoming stronger and better. RECOVERY is the most important part of any training. Proper diet, full nights rest every day, especially on off days, and some form of stretching/'active' recovery are what actually makes you more capable. The training does the damage, the recovery is what builds you back stronger.

[@benironside1264]

Bingo. People need to see the training (regardless of what it is for) as the STIMULUS. It really helps with the correct mindset

[@CaptainBrash]

Yeah, people don't really think it but training makes you weaker. It's recovering that makes you stronger. Well said.

[@philbayer]

I would love to see a video about balancing training plans and fun climbing. I boulder at the gym 3-5 days a week, and will usually just sprinkle in some hangboarding or pull ups when I feel like it. Although I want to improve my climbing, I strongly prioritize having fun and climbing a lot. I guess I'd like to learn about the least structured way to see (moderate) climbing gains, without it feeling like a chore. Climbing is my favorite type of exercise specifically because it isn't repetitive and monotonous like many other types of exercise.

[@minamarkovic5841]

I believe you can gain for climbing most with climbing. If you have opportunity/excess to faculties, boulders and climbing walls is the best way to get better at climbing! Ect. do one day max bouldering, second shorter rutes (10-15 moves), next session 'coordination' boulders, next power boulders, technical ,... pay attention to climb 'all styles and holds'. Do 2x per week really hard bouldering (max boulders), other 2 in moderate intensity and one on 'easier' intenisty (plash of few attempts). All best

[@philbayer]

@@minamarkovic5841 thank you for the thoughtful reply!

[@mathias5618]

I would be interested in a video about all the energy systems and the correct/incorrect ways to train them! I feel like there's still lots of confusion around this

[@LatticeTraining]

Appa Rillo we’ve put quite a lot of this content in our other training videos - especially the training Q&As. Have a watch 😊

[@bastienminni8639]

Eric Horst has done a bunch of podcast about energy systems, check them out, they're great

[@oldi6btm6t9d4]

This is one of the most helpful climbing training videos in existence.

[@AVPML]

Thank you so much for that effort, teaching us a little bit more of training for our goals and doing it (the teaching) so well done. 🙏

[@iluecha]

Great video. Valuable "guidance" how to structure one's own training and what questions to ask and how to address those questions. Thank you!!

[@Sure_fire_]

I didn't realize how much climbing knowledge Jason Bateman had.

[@michor10]

You guys create such excellent content. Thank you!

[@Amatsuichi]

Wow, finally a channel where I can get actually something useful for improvement.

[@matthaeusschlaml6742]

Loving this new video quality!

[@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy]

Another fantastic vid guys, def some food for thought there on my own training, much appreciated :-)

[@joshuawillett9254]

Super useful as always! Thanks so much

[@BoyFromTheOtherSide]

Amazing video. Thank you for all the incredible content

[@tjerkvanhalem115]

Thanks for disecting my plan Tom and Olli! Really usefull :) defintely helpfull to have you guys break it down like this. Cheers!

[@LatticeTraining]

Tjerk van Halem no worries. Hope we pronounced your name as accurately as possible 😊

[@tjerkvanhalem115]

@@LatticeTraining haha don't worry about it! I know my name is not the easiest of names ;)

[@adriensanz2354]

Thank you so much for the advices ! You guys rock ;)

[@LatticeTraining]

Adrien SANZ no worries Adrien. It was a pleasure to work on your plan! 💪💪

[@michalifabian9646]

I've been mostly sport climbing for the past 2.5 years. A few months ago I started sport climbing outdoors. I started projecting a short sustained 7a+, I managed to do all the moves on my third attempt. I felt I was missing power to link the moves so I decided to go to a different gym that has moonboard. At first I couldn't do any problems so I just climbed on all the holds and after a couple of weeks I was doing v4s. After a few mor visits to the crag to work on the project, yesterday I finally sent it! I'm so happy! But I'm not sure if it was because of the moon training or just because I worked on my beta. I feel like I don't know what my level is and what I need to train. So I decided that before choosing another project I'm just going to expand my outdoor climbing experience and try and send all the 6b at the crag. Because I really haven't even climbed that many routes there.

[@berghiasl]

Nice videos guys, keep them coming!!!!

[@Ben-xb2ik]

Hey guys, really like how you broke this down. Absolutely helpful. Love what you doing. Get back to you as soon as I have my 7a.

[@LatticeTraining]

Ben good luck with it!!

[@SHRUTI1346]

This is perfect, I am fairly new at bouldering as well and my goal this year to be able to send a V4. I've been doing mostly strength training , but thanks to this video I am planning to add finger board to my plan as well. The plan that you have looks very tailored to what I want as well :) Thanks Ben and Lattice Training!

[@FranFerioli]

@@LatticeTraining Very interesting! Can I ask how long would it take to complete the last training regime (in h/week)? I understand it might be quite a large range...

[@FranFerioli]

Good luck with your climbing goals Ben. How long does it take to complete the training (in hours/week)? Thanks

[@riccardomolteni4450]

@Ben do you reach 7A?

[@ernst3087]

Excellent stuff ✌️

[@AEClimbingTV]

Thank you for this Lattice training 😊

[@linguaelearning3566]

Always usefull. Thanks!

[@michaelmathias3111]

This was a VERY helpful video guys!!! I'm looking for something like that for so long.. Therer are plenty of videos on youtube about Exercices or "HOW TO GET INCREDEBLY STRONG" or Pro's telling about there lifes...^^. But this seems unique! Cheeers

[@sldenn5303]

Love this thank you 😊

[@bennnyfactor]

Really informative video.... thanks a lot guys. Do you have any content on the specific differences between ancap and aerocap workouts if you were doing them as sport climbs or circuits?

[@wingedzebraofjustice6088]

Thank you, once again, for putting this great content out there! :) I've been wondering a lot about max work capacity: I understand that for most efficient training gains, one shouldn't be training/climbing until total exhaustion. Yet on the other hand, when I'm not at the gym but at a crag, I love to go all out all day and have as many climbs as possible; not only on that day but maybe even for 4 days straight. (I love climbing outdoors, but when I get to do it, it is a 1week-trip, as I dont have nice crags for daytrips close by.) If I am the type of climber that likes to be able to perform well at fatigued states, is there a certain training protocol that is helpful/recommended? Does it for example make sense to have one (insanely) high volume training session per week? Or, rather keep the training sessions at regular volume/intensity, but make every fun session really long? Or is this all general no-no, when you want to improve at an efficient rate? I am unsure about how much "all-out-sessions" actually benefit the max work capacity or if this is more just a higher risk of injury with less gains.

[@kiter93kiter]

Amazing video!! 💪🏻 Can you recommend some good S&U exercises that are climbing related? Thanks a lot guys! Keep on doing this great work! ❤️

[@davidoakes7782]

Crazy timing, I’m actually meeting my coach tomorrow morning to go over the plan he’s written for me. I can’t wait to see what he’s come up with! Love the channel guys. Cheers

[@LatticeTraining]

David Oakes ha! Awesome! Enjoy it.

[@davidoakes7782]

Lattice Training thank you! It was pretty awesome. I’m very excited for some work 🤙

[@iggimoore]

Love it 🤩

[@iRobot7532]

Gives a really good general idea unfortunately I cant write out training plans in advance because I work on a rota which effects everything from gym access to how I have to plan rest days. But It helps to see the sort of structure I should aim for.

[@mtlbeta8420]

Is it a good idea to focus on projects (bouldering) during the strength cycle and focus on volume (boulder+sport) for endurance and power endurance cycle?

[@nazgul_rocks6714]

Hey guys, thank you so much for sharing your expertise. Is it a good idea to decrease the Volume for Bouldering training? You want to try really hard like three times a week for one hour + some max strengths training afterwards and between the climbing days. I had good success taking three days off to recover.... Is it just wasting of time to take like three days off or is it a helpful rest?

[@BlodieSan]

Thanks, very interesting! After max strenght works (High load reps untill strenght start to decrease) , anaerobical hangboard mean 10/15sec reps with High volume? Is Always recommended anaerobical hangboard After max strenght?

[@omardisraelimarquez1436]

Nice video guys, i have a cuestion. What about the people that works as route setters 2 days a week. But they have their own proyects and want to train?

[@WyandWombat]

Now this is a video that was really interesting. I have just one question that really bugs me. What about "active" rest days? My current plan involves training at the gym and training at home, however I only have one true full rest day (which is thursday). I do however also have mondays and saturdays where I do only conditioning work for the core, mobility training and some light antagonist training, none of which involves a bar or a TRX, so it is very relaxed on the arms/shoulders/hands or doesn't involve them at all (saturday). Do those count as rest days? My focus is strength, power, bouldering and all of the intense fingerboard, pullup and climbing work is grouped into the remaining 4 days which then also alternate between hard and less hard days. The reason I do those active rest days is simply me having spare time on those days so it doesn't cause any stress besides my 40 hour office job.

[@LatticeTraining]

It all depends on historic loading. If you feel that for YOU this feels like active resting, then it likely to be ok. There is.a tendency amongst climbers though, to be worried about resting.... it's not the enemy!! It's the perfect partner to hard training :-)

[@WyandWombat]

@@LatticeTraining Cool, thanks for the answer! I'm not worried about resting at all. I just feel like the core, mobility and antagonist work (mostly injury prevention) is something I want to do, but also putting that into my climbing days would make those very tight time wise (or shorten my climbing sessions by quite a bit). On the other hand, I feel like I can easily do that before or after work on off days without causing any stress. If that wouldn't be possible, I'd have cut down on my climbing OR ditch those other exercises, which actually feel kinda refreshing, especially the mobility and antagonist work.

[@EducationProfessional-pc6ep]

im guessing the board on the left is "Star on a reasonably priced edge". Is this episodes on youtube somewhere?

[@basilisneururer5386]

Great video! Makes me rethink my routine... One question though regarding the 6b+ towards 7a progression. I notice that many younger/less experienced climbers turn to hang/campusboarding very quickly and I wanted to ask you if you think that is really necessary? I feel like up to 6c maybe even 7a, training specifically on a hangboard doesn't feel necessary, especially starting out, since you have a lot to learn regarding technique and movement. Hangboarding is an easy way to get injured, especially if your tendons are not used to the strain and if not done correctly... Ive been climbing almost 20 years now and noticed an incredible increase in campusboarding/maxhanging etc. especially with beginners and I'm quite sceptical that that is the right approach. But more than happy to hear your arguments/thoughts on the topic

[@AdrienBurg]

Also interested about the answer. My take is I try fingerboard a bit, but mostly with feet on ground to adjust intensity.

[@andulasis6283]

I mainly boulder and also currently try to get my first 7a. I usually go 3 hours climbing 3x a week. Is that too much or how long do you guys usually go?

[@dasnklas1164]

Thanks, Really good and practical information! If Finger strength gains are the First priority and endurance gains Second priority, which would bei better: 1) Fingerboard Max followed by ancap and easy aerocap (continuity 10) all in one day than next 2 days both Rest days or 2) fingerboardmax, next day ancap and aerocap and then Rest day For scenario 1 the full Week Looks Like this: Mo: Boulder max (Board 10), Tu: Rest, We: FB max + S&C, Tu: Rest, Fr: FB Max + ancap + aerocap, saturday+sunday rest

[@suleymenkand41]

Spreading your different training stimulus (ancap vs aerocap) is better because the fatigue of one will affect your performance on the other less if spread than if you train it all the same day.

[@dasnklas1164]

@@suleymenkand41 in my plan, which ist from lattice, they explicitly told ne to combine the two, which makes total Sense to me. Especially given my aerocap Work ist quite easy ARC-type work. So i would Not spread the two

[@suleymenkand41]

@@dasnklas1164 why would one prefer to train double on one day and rest 2 days instead of train 2 days a normal training and still have 1 rest one day.

[@saimonhills7248]

Im a novice climber, v5-v6 indoor mostly. Im trying to find a plan i can follow for bouldering sessions; times per week, what to practice on the wall during sessions, intensity, rest between problems to keep improving. do you have a video explaining this? Thanks! sorry bad english.

[@sonjad.6460]

I would really like to know how you would plan archery (target not hunting) in a climber‘s plan. It is another upper body workout but as from I understand, it requires different shoulder/back muscles to work. How can I combine 2x climbing, 2x archery and strength training in my week at best?

[@rhian2033]

Looking for a 3 day a week plan. Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Used to climb for 9 years 20 years ago (so technique is still knowledge I hold on to), however have only been back on the wall for 6 weeks (climbing 3 days a week). Was 94kg now down to 80kg (since October 2019) Trained in the gym doing 3 days full body workouts ( 6-10 reps x 3-4 sets of each exercise - 1.5hrs-2hrs per session) from October til mid December then switched to climbing. In the 6 weeks back I can now climb (bouldering) at the level of most all other climbers at the gym and seem to be climbing longer sessions... (???)

[@foxtrot3362]

Is training free boulder and route climbing to exhaustion 2 days a week enough to progress through 5.12 and v6?

[@MultiAllgaier]

Great Video. Have One question about the amount of exercises in one block of e.g fb max. Is it one exercises from the specific category of the crimpd app?Could you say something about the right amount of workload calculated by the app? Thanks

[@LatticeTraining]

Benedikt Haggenmiller every athlete is unique, so I’m afraid it’s very hard to make generalisations. If in doubt, grab yourself a trusted climbing friend, or a coach 😊

[@johnbergkvist7349]

Is it ok to do cardio training on break days like running?

[@DumbleCash-]

20:48 what was the goal of this plan? And what does sport climbing qualify as? Can you also elaborate on the terms ancap, aerocap?

[@byedaaa]

I see you guys place max hangs at the beginning of sessions on these training plans, but I have seen some climbers who organize max hang later in the session when the fingers have had some work/time to warm up properly. Should we really be prioritizing max hangs first? Or is there some wiggle room depending on the climber?

[@LatticeTraining]

I can certainly depend on the climber - this applies to almost any form of training actually.... an individualised approach should always trump 'generic' although it's still useful to follow those rules somewhat in the first place.

[@nevo8715]

Should I do fingerboard befor or after climbing or after at home or before at home

[@op-training]

This is really helpful guys. I am an old man of 63 :-) and at about the same stage as Ben, your second example. I am interested in whether you think people in their sixties should approach climbing training any differently from people in their twenties or thirties. I am fairly fit for my age but I think I have lost some muscle mass and seem to have a problem with stamina on overhanging sport routes.

[@op-training]

I've just found another video you posted that answers my questions! Thanks again. kzbin.info/www/bejne/e5CQnXatn95qetE

[@ChanmailleMan]

My takeaway here is that I should probably fit in another rest day. Or maybe I could do some light mobility work on that day?

[@LatticeTraining]

ChanmailleMan mobility work is a great use of a rest day. Upper and lower body!

[@jrisner6535]

In another video, please explain what aerobic capacity and anaerobic capacity climbing sessions would look like

[@MrKobohobo]

Download the 'crimpd' app and you exactly know, what the difference looks like ;)

[@CaptainBrash]

Late to the party but this is very interesting, I'm in a similar position to Ben (#2) I can only make it to the wall 1*week. But have rings at home. I'll keep the specificity in mind. I'm still too new to be able to do much fingerboard stuff, I'm also tall and heavy so while my strength is good, my relative strength isn't as much.

[@stephenTcartwright]

Ayup lads! I fit 3 rest days into my week usually Tuesday, Sat and Sun. My question is; What does a typical rest day look like to you fellas? I get really antsy if I don't have some form of workout or activity, so my typical rest days at the moment are having a gentle weights session, morning 'no hangs' in a hybrid half/chisel grip, and a wagon load of cardio to tucker me out (bike ride/hike/swim/chasing my dog about like a lunatic). Am I doing too much on my rest days to let my body recover fully? Or Do I continue doing what I'm doing because it's fun, and I don't ever feel that fatigued except for on a Wednesday.

[@hugomorenorock]

Hello guys, I was wondering if you could show a training plan where there's one or 2 days of outdoors climbing. Thanks, looking forward to hearing from you soon.

[@LatticeTraining]

Hugo Moreno we’ll be doing more of these in the near future!

[@hugomorenorock]

@@LatticeTraining thank you so much, keeping track of your channel and work.

[@rossy2027]

What would a strength and conditioning session look like, and also what is the difference between FB and FB Max?

[@jaimenavarrogutierrez6337]

Hi there! One thing that always confuses me is what is 1 session made of? So for example: 1x Aero Cap: is this 1 hour of Aero Cap with different workouts, or just 1 workout (1 on 1 off 20 mins)?

[@LatticeTraining]

In this case its just one workout e.g. 1on1off. Different climbers will use different workouts depending on their goals and training history.

[@emilyblakley2496]

Great video! I'm taking a short break from climbing to weightlift and train. Climbed about 2 years at a v3 v4 level bouldering grade. Is two hangboard sessions a week adequate?

[@LatticeTraining]

Thanks Emily! If you are new to hangboarding, start with one per week and build up from there. Any new training technique goes a long way and we also want to be gradual in increasing training volume. A general rule with any new exercise is do a little as possible to still see an improvement. If you are not climbing at all you may want to add more sessions after a few weeks.

[@TMWanish]

When you guys are saying "1 session aerobic capacity" or "1 Pull up session" for the last example, what do you define as a session? Is that one full workout in the crimpd app? Hitting a certain workload?

[@LatticeTraining]

It’s typically one full workout in something like the Crimpd app. It does depend on the individual of course. High training load histories will likely support a bit more...

[@Eeliskkkkkk]

Can you guys help me do my climbing routine, i have 4 days free in week when i can climb after school

[@suleymenkand41]

Hi! I'm currently using a slightly different approach to my climbing and I'm wondering what you guys would think of it? Hopefully I'm lucky to get a response because I directly watched the vid after uploading :) Monday Rest Tuesday Bouldering + mobility + power endurance + max hangs Wednesday rest Thursday bouldering + mobility + explosive power Friday antagonist Saturday bouldering + mobility + strength (weighted pullups) Sunday rest Thanks in advance!

[@marcusjangsjo9123]

Thanks for great videos guys, I really enjoying them and they are helping me out a bunch. . I've recently stumbled upon Pavel Tsatsuline on one of Joe Rogans pod casts, and I've taken a little deep dive in his content. Must say, very interesting stuff. He talkes allot about how to get strenght, non sport specific of coarse. Are you familiar of his thoughts? I'm trying to wrap my head around how you can apply his thought on strenght training for climbing. Would love to hear what you have to say about it. Keep it up! //One dedicated fan

[@LatticeTraining]

Yeah Joe does have some good guests on! We'll keep pushing our content too!

[@johnweber2895]

How do you think weightlifting and cardio work fits into training for climbing plans? Is it okay if I lift weights or run in the morning, and climb or fingerboard in the afternoon?

[@LatticeTraining]

We add CV and weights into lots of our client and athlete plans! Yup, very much in agreement.

[@DavidSamuelOwens]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/n16ngZKtbJV2p7s Quick question! At this point in the video I got confused in regards to mixing max strength sessions with energy work. Earlier in the video, you mentioned that it is okay to mix a max fingerboard session with some work capacity / energy systems work afterwards. But then here you mentioned that you need to be careful with your energy systems work to avoid negating the strength gains. I want to make sure I have this right! We have 3 levels: "max," "anaerobic," and "aerobic" intensities. Max should feel like failure w/o pump. Anaerobic should feel like a pump to failure, and aerobic should never have "true" failure (I hope you can forgive me for my over-simplification). From what I gathered you are advocating that a "max" intensity session should not be followed by an "anaerobic" session due to physiological processes that may negate the max strength work. Is this correct? And that following a max strength stimulus with aerobic stimulus is perfectly fine. Sorry for the long question.. hope it makes sense! Awesome video and I appreciate your thoughts / time / efforts! Best, David

[@hyau23]

For someone who has swollen pip joints, what kind of training/rehab would you recommend?

[@LatticeTraining]

First step - significant reduction in load!!! This means more rest duration and frequency, less climbing, less intensity.

[@juliopastor516]

What are the Mobility sessions exercises?

[@terezav6754]

I guess it’s stretching etc

[@EqualsEdits]

what would you do if you were on a shift pattern? Info below > My shift is 5 days on 5days off, 4 nights 5 days off, 2days 3nights 4 days off. 12hr long days and nights makes almost impossible to train on a day I work. I sometimes go in day time when im on night shift. I train everyday im off depending on how im feeling and commitments I have. Any thoughts would be appreciated

[@LatticeTraining]

Jimbo V0 in this scenario going for block training might be an option. Then choosing a performance focus for each season. We definitely see struggles and complexity for those who we train on shift patterns. Not simple! 😬

[@EqualsEdits]

@@LatticeTraining Thanks for the advice :)

[@jeremiegariepy5402]

Hi. I have a bit of a dumb question.: Should I climb 3 times a week or 4 times a week if I can? I usually feel like I need to rest 2 days in a row at least once a week. Am I resting too much? Thank you!

[@LatticeTraining]

Most people across the climbing population would be better off climbing 3x week if boulder/strength orientated and 4x week if route/fitness orientated. This is a VERY generalised statement of course!! You'd never do as much as this if you didn't have the training history to back it up.... you'd build up slowly over the months from 1 x to 2 x to 3x etc etc.

[@jeremiegariepy5402]

@@LatticeTraining Thank you so much! I love your videos and I'm really thankful for your answer!

[@syko3298]

How about for those working office hours like 9am-5pm, with only 2-3 hours of free time after work before going to bed? Any advise for training plan

[@Mike-oz4cv]

Start at 7:00 and you can go climbing at 15:30

[@LatticeTraining]

Often we see really motivated individuals. Do a 30 min fingerboard session in the morning and then a shorter climbing session in the evening on perhaps 2-3 days a week.

[@BoulderingAddict]

i climb 7a in t gym cosistntly i even climb some 7b's and i climed 2 7c's i just seem to not get better anymore any tips?

[@LatticeTraining]

Maybe time to talk to a coach about a training plan 😉

[@geoffswyka1143]

Besides the point but: Why did Rab stop making that alpha direct piece!?

[@dalmirogranas9990]

This was one of the most useful videos I’ve found on this (already amazing) channel 🌈

[@martinlacher7932]

Hey guys, interesting video, I like it, it's really specific advice for training and not just (the usual) blabla! Maybe you have some hints for me, too, I'm in a bit a special situation: For around 9+ month now, my left knee is inflammated and swollen due to lyme disease (late stage symptoms). I'm in treatment with good doctors, but the healing process needs a lot of time (and patience...). Because of that I wasn't able to train nor to climb for monthes now. But I really would like to try to stay in shape and not loose all my muscles (so much gone already). So, in short, my situation is: I want to train to keep in shape (or get back to shape) but I can't use my feet at all, not even for stability exercises (like TRX or planks, I've tried...). What would you suggest me to do as a strength training? Thanks a lot in advance!

[@poopie6205]

Y'all forgot squats, bent over rows, bench press, dead lifts and toes to elbows hanging sit ups.1 armed dumbells rows in would reccommend. Pull and push strength are extremely important.

[@DeanByers]

Just came across this channel and the content is great! I've been wondering something for a while now... I only boulder, climbing at a 7a+ max which I have slowly achieved over the last 8 weeks from a 6c+. Whenever I do any S&C training i focus on full body, making sure to not miss out on hams and glutes. I'm 100% aware of the intense upper body strength needed for climbing but I've noticed a lack of training in glutes, hamstrings and legs in general. Even though these are such big muscles and when tensing you core the glutes play a such a huge part in the strength and stability. My question would be how much do you think its necessary to focus on these areas and have you noticed a good bench mark to go by? For example being able to deadlift double your body weight or heavy weighted KB swings... would be really interested on hearing your thoughts.

[@LatticeTraining]

S&C for the lower body certainly has high value, but it really can't be completed at the detriment of other training - always focus FIRST on the high return, high specificity items! We've not seen an high correlation of deadlifting PBs with climbing performance. Do note that "correlation" is the operative word!

[@DeanByers]

@@LatticeTraining cool, yeah I'm no longer pushing pbs or 1 rep max, more so just a conditioning approach. It solely comes down to having some balance to my training and not leaving that area behind. When I do go to the gym I save my strength for upper body ring exercises and love some TGUs as well. Thanks for answering my question, I'm a qualified trainer so it's nice to know my approach isn't off when it comes to sport specific training. Next thing I need to do is have a more focussed approach to some of my climbing days, I find it so easy when climbing with friends to get caught up in all kinds of different problems!

[@Failurefirst123]

What’s aerocap?

[@jaredanwyl3686]

Front lever (do you consider that climbing-specific or calisthenics)

[@tierrakaffe]

In my opinion, Front Levers translate really well to overhang climbing, due to the specific movement of pulling your albows closer to your upper body or latissimus dorsi, which will engage your latissimus and your core, not unlike when you do overhang climbing. Hope that helps. :)

[@nickc2011]

When they say mobility, does this mean the same/similar as flexibility?

[@nickc2011]

Just continued and I think yes... I think I would probably benefit from watching/reading about some general sport and training concepts/terminology, it's something I actively avoided in school as I didn't enjoy standard PE classes but would probably help me improve climbing training

[@fuzz6263]

This scares me so much, I've been climbing for half a year and projecting 6b routes now but I've never had a training plan or anything... Will I stop improving soon if I don't get started on intensive training?

[@NaveenKumar-np6zg]

What can a beginner climber do in 1 hour of training?

[@Hyrtsi]

Hi first of all thanks for the vid. Secondly I think most of the videos on yt where things are explained on the whiteboard are a bit difficult to follow. Just wanted to give some useful constructive criticism. Good points discussed

[@Fogshaper]

Generally speaking, what's the point where a more strategic climbing plan begins to make sense? I'm climbing since a year, mainly doing whatever, progressing however fast, climbing 3 days a week. There's no real strategy behind it, I'm just taking climbing and then a rest day or two. During my sessions I get into projecting, drills and most of the some bodyweight or finger-boarding. Maybe I'm at 4a or something in Bleau. Maybe a bit better. Does it make sense to strategise over my training yet or should I just go climbing?

[@masterpropper2485]

I'd say just go climbing and have fun, as long as you're progressing this way, everything's great, especially if you're progressing FAST, which is usually the case in the first few years. Only if you feel you're at a plateau or it just takes ages to progress, then you should think about strategy and fingerboarding, campussing etc. It's cool that there's more and more info about training for climbing and people are giving it more thought. But whenever I hear people making up crazy strict hangboard training plans for reaching their goal of, say, 6c+, I have the feeling there's something wrong with their approach to climbing, which first and foremost should be about "climbing" and having fun. On the other hand, to each their own ...

[@LatticeTraining]

Keep doing what you're doing IF you're improving and you're having fun!!

[@Fogshaper]

@@masterpropper2485 I'm progressing for sure, not exactly sure how fast though. I started climbing when all my friends were 4-8 years climbing already, so I don't really have a benchmark. That's fine though, I felt like I was progressing well enough. Had a moment of plateauing but I broke through that pretty handily by cleaning up my nutrition. Thanks!

[@laurawieder8321]

so fingerboarding is better before climbing rather then after a session?

[@LatticeTraining]

Absolutely (always after a warm up of course). The only exception would be that you can do stamina/endurance FB sessions later on in climbing sessions.

[@tykepope]

Could you make a beginner 1 year training schedule? I just started bouldering and My challenge is to go from beginner to v9 within 1 year. I’m currently doing a RTCCRTC weekly routine. The training day consists of a 10x10 pull-ups in various forms and a bit of push ups and a good amount of various ab exercises. The climbing days are usually 2-3 hours of bouldering. I typically climb V4-5 (my current best) and if I am too tired toward the end some V2-3. I am wondering if the strength training is less important for me and maybe I should just climb 4-6 days instead. I have a strong background in sports so my weaknesses are largely climbing related (technique/fingers). Thank you!

[@LatticeTraining]

Tyke Pope our primary response to this would be... 1) your goal in that timeframe is certainly high risk 2) your best chances of achieving it are very carefully monitoring load (vol x intensity) + recovery. Be careful and whatever happens enjoy the process as that’s what it’s about 😊

[@eliasfoubert4905]

Is it wrong to do mobility on a rest day?

[@fufumccuddlypoops5502]

Elias Foubert No, that’s actually a great use of a rest day

[@eliasfoubert4905]

Fu Fu Mc Cuddly Poops oke then I was doing it right

[@TuvofLuv]

So is this table a 3 week cycle, with week 3 generally building in more rest days?

[@LatticeTraining]

TuvofLuv it’s a single 1 week cycle. Just one snapshot of one person’s week 😊

[@adielisha1980]

what if fb?

[@ofirsinn9635]

could i send you my training plan? im not sure if im doing too much.

[@TheEddyHudson]

are both of you the wide boyz?

[@Marc-fg1mn]

Sometimes Less is More :D

[@LatticeTraining]

Absolutely!! Bang on

[@alman434bp]

What's s and c?

[@littlelawson06]

Alexis FitzGerald strength and conditioning

[@LatticeTraining]

strength and conditioning

[@schmetterling2169]

What is S&C?

[@LatticeTraining]

Schmetterling strength and conditioning

[@NaveenKumar-np6zg]

What s&c

[@mlkdfs]

This is all good and all but those schedules are impossible to maintain with a daily job lmao

[@robertobreve8623]

x2 speed

[@il24ir]

Tom can not be left handed.

[@TheLocalsOnlyPodcast]

You guys. This is great information. But it’s 2020, you have a computer, and a camera. Just make slides and overlay them on the video in PowerPoint or something. Again, lovely information. But make it easy on the eyes for both of us right? Watch “Movement for Climbers” and you’ll see formatting for showing information.

[@LatticeTraining]

Nah! We love whiteboards! We spend so much of our time doing things digitally, it's actually nice to go old school sometimes :-)