The Perfect First Model Railway Diorama (and How to Build It)

[@Breezer606]

Top marks for having ago and I hope you have enjoyed it. :) I would have gone for track first and then ballast. Also make's it easier for setting up the level crossing and a better foundation for the track. As for the road. It looks good would have let the paint dry more. The lampposts on the station are a bit close to the edge of the platform. For a first try I think you did very well!

[@richardswiderski4985]

1st thing I should do is get a cup of tea. Always,lay track 1st then track will be nice and flat and you can ballast between the track and sleepers then.Nice idea showing how it is done.Well done Mike.

[@RaysRailVideos]

Yep thats the best advice ever, get a brew first lol

[@richardswiderski4985]

total agree.

[@AndyHudson-ModelRailwayBuilds]

Track first, then paint the track with sleeper grime (rattle can) to take away the plastic look of the sleepers and weather the track, then ballast. That way the sleepers are beefed into the ballast not resting on top. Glad your having ago Mike and your enjoying this hobby

[@modelrailwaynoob]

Always track first and test a loco on it. Many of us raise the track on cork or foam so it looks more realistic. I usually ballast straight afterwards but many do scenery first. I have never seen ballast go down first but as long as it works. Usually watered down PVA is used to hold the ballast in place then clean the track.

[@ronphillips3339]

Plan for the future get a 6x4 feet baseboard On legs or trestles made by you or help from some DIY person, Try to build so you can drop some point motors into the baseboard if possible , PAINT THE baseboard with grey or green house emulsion paint from DIY store that will take the bareness away on board (get it so far) Now plan your track and learn to lay the largest radius circle first with a switch (point as some call it too) With a siding so you can run a test train around the circle you have just laid with thin double side sticky tape at a few places only just to hold your track in place while testing your track with power connectors attached ( some thought required here) Get the locomotives to run around the track and across point down siding with our derailing with rolling stock as well, Nice to see a train run around a circle the children love to see them go round and round, Ballast track comes later when you have all your track plan in place in case you want to move a few pieces around when happy with track pin as you go and keep the straight sections straight, Slowly dose it, Trains running smoothly first, Then scenery which you should have some idea what you want, A model railway is never finished that’s the whole idea there is always something to add

[@AntoekneeDE]

Fair play for having a go, I think having people in businesses coming for different backgrounds as yours is useful as it gives variety and diversity but at the same time it’s also great to have people live and breathe the products, so you getting that experience as a first timer is really useful. In the past (thinking back to my childhood hornby catalogues in the early 90s), an amateur modeller (in the most respectful sense) was advised to place the track where you want it, draw around it to create a ballast bed, paint it grey, pour on the grey scatter (which was pretty flat and easy to pin through) and then place the track over. Another approach championed by Budget Model Railways is to place down roof felt as a more affordable but equally plausible alternative to ballast mat which again is quite flat and achieves a similar effect. If you glue down ballast derived from grit before the track rather than scatter, sand of fine grit (most 00 ballast I find is too course), then it is hard to get an equal thickness and you may have problems getting the track level, and if you’re pinning it, you can expect more issues, If your goal is realism however (and it’s fine if it’s not and it’s just about fun), then looking at pics in real life will help but you’ll notice the sleepers are somewhat sunken into the track, and sits in a bed of ballast above the ground level with often a well defined shoulder. It’s also rarely a uniform colour. A few others have suggested some approaches here, but a common one is to lay down a layer of cork sheet first under the track, then lay down the track, which can be pinned or glued depending on how likely it is to be permanent, and then the ballast is placed over the lot; there are some tools to form this into a nice shape but you can do it with a brush. A mix of water-diluted PVA with a drop of washing up liquid to break the surface tension is then applied usually with a pipette to secure the ballast..... I’ve tried doing it this way and had a nightmare, never got the glue mix right no matter how dilute or how much washing-up liquid!!! Because most of my layouts are very small, I’ll test out the track first, but I’ll glue it down with PVA painted where I want the track bed, place the track, and the pour on the ballast. It can’t stick where it shouldn’t because there will be no glue in the visible surface of the track. To add more realism you can then go back after and build up more ballast where you want it. On some layouts I’ve used cork to build the level up, others I haven’t bothered, especially where the layout represents a yard rather than a section of proper line. I tend to mix crushed soot, different colours of sand and some fine commercially available ballast products to get the effect I want and have even added a little weathering powder to the mix to get the colours I’m after. The most important thing is this is a learning curve, some railway modellers can historically be quite particular and snobbish, fast to criticise but they’re complete wrong. There’s nothing wrong with aiming for total realism and running a slick timetable. There’s also nothing wrong with slapping a bit of track down and playing trains. It’s a hobby, and it’s to enjoy, you can let your creativity blossom as far as you like.

[@russellbenton2987]

Was the first thing you had to do was clean the kitchen for video . Good job looks pristine . Wished mine looked like that . Go for it . Well done you for having a go

[@simonwhite8092]

Well done you. I am a few weeks further down the road than you are, picking up this hobby from my childhood, as I am now in my early 50's with two boys (7 and 9) of my own. Grandad (my Dad) got them a Hornby Family Fun Layout for Christmas. We started with a loop, but it takes up too much space, so now we have halved the baseboard lengthways, and are moving on to a shunting layout. I am loving it, although whether the boys are quite as engaged with attempting realistic modelling is a moot point - tonight we have a lovely diorama of dinosaurs chasing hotwheels cars, lego people and Brittains farm animals along the high street..... I am going to subscribe, and look forward to seeing how you develop your hobby alongside mine. One tip, beware the addiction of EBay...... today i took delivery of an 0-4-0 loco, and three right hand points....

[@kimberlycooksley]

Ok just finished day 1. Awesome! I’m revisiting Hornby after watching the TV series on yesterday. Reminded me of my basic set as a kid. Now I want to go full on and do scenery. This has provided me the confidence to take on a mammoth task

[@ewoodrailway]

It's a great hobby and good luck. The station building is more for a child's layout, I had one in 1979 and wasn't impressed then. Lay the track and ballast afterwards. I anticipate the next instalment with interest.

[@thiruraj3866]

That is the fastest I’ve seen someone open a hornby box ever

[@AmeryJunction]

Thought the same lol

[@MonsterJ-mv7nv]

He works for Hornby and probably knows the boxes better than us. Especially cause he has 3 yrs experience.

[@johnbolt806]

Hi. I put gaffa tape under the track and cut it to shape. I heated it up with a hairdryer then sprinkled the ballast on to it. It looked good

[@rainey06au]

I'm no expert by any means, but: 1.) I would not use MDF board as a base, as it's prone to warping with water based paint and glues 2.) Would paint the baseboard a neutral dirt colour before anything else (and grey under the ballast sections) 3.) Would lay a track base of 3mm cork or foam underlay for sound deadening and for a more realistic ballast edge 4.) Would lay down the track before ballast, then just ballast and drip PVA glue over the sides and between the rails Interested to see where we go from here!

[@Poliss95]

I haven't noticed any warping from using water based paints on MDF.

[@edwardmortimer2150]

This looks like such a lovely little micro layout, will be nice seeing it develop

[@lapiswake6583]

I always lay the track first, to make sure its all working and everything before any scenics go in. Then wire it up, and then ballast on top. Since track on 1:1 railways have the ballast packed around the sleepers, not just under them.

[@oscarknight3588]

may I ask how you glue the ballast down? I've seen suggestions for a spray glue over the top, but I'd think that would create a layer of glue over the rails too? preventing power from getting there, please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm just a novice modeller!

[@lapiswake6583]

@@oscarknight3588 I personally use a watered down pva mix which I pour on using a small plastic bottle with a piping bag nozzle hot glued into the bottle lid. If you use a spray glue, you can easily just use a track rubber or a track cleaning vehicle or something to just clean it off afterwards.

[@ickhamroad9635]

I alway lay the track down first and put the ballast on after. I do this as I pin the track and run the trains before gluing the ballast onto the track. I have never tried the other way around. I'm interested to see how it looks.

[@bentullett6068]

It's a method Corporate Layouts do. They make all of the Hornby layouts for Hornby and layouts for corporate shows, TV programme's or people who want a pre built layout with all of the scenery and track in place ready to run trains.

[@speleokeir]

I like to put down some cork or foam underlay first. This makes your trains run more quietly and raises the track slightly which is more realistic. Remember to raise platforms, etc by the same amount. Next I'd lay my track and once happy with it glue or pin it. Then ballast (using a blend of ballasts can look better). To stop points getting clogged flick them a few times to make sure they open and shut properly. Use a fine brush to remove any stubborn bits of ballast. Then glue the ballast. You can weather it for added realism, if you wish. One con to this is you tend to get glue and ballast on your rails (which will hinder power pick up by your loco) and potentially between points. Track can be either masked in some way to stop this or cleaned with a track rubber which is easier but causes abrasion to your track, so use a light hand with the rubber. The reason for laying track before ballast is to keep your track flat and even. It also makes it look bedded into the ballast which looks better. There are loads of KZbin videos giving top tips for layouts. Here are some links to three I've found very useful. Each is different and has their own way of doing things, but give lots of useful advice and have plenty of "How to" videos as well as running ones. At the end of the day there is no right or wrong just what works for you and fits in with the size of your layout, your budget, time available and skills. Even the best modellers are always learning and picking up tips from other people. Don't be scared to experiment or redo things if you're not happy with your first efforts. Lastly have fun! That's what it's all about. 1) kzbin.info/door/Pb9_WPXrSj96rxxfciOTog Mouldyraspberry has just won an award for his Yorkshire Dales layout and shows that sometimes less is more. His layout is only single track but he's concentrated on making beautiful scenery. 2) kzbin.info EverardJunction has a more modern layout based in the 80s, has amazing attention to detail and is very good a creating scenes with a bit of a story to them. His layout is based on a more rundown city scene. 3) kzbin.info/door/MjSsrcmA4BNeAnh2NxYp0Q Chadwick Model Railway gives lots of useful tips by an experienced modeller.

[@AmeryJunction]

Great effort Mike , painting techniques paint as you did but if you dab it over with a sponge. That will take the brush strokes out of it and give a nice road surface . Also just To let you know, ballast normally is done after the track is down . Then you can put it, in between the sleepers. But looks very good so far, top marks for your 1st go

[@bentullett6068]

With track I have known it to be place track down first then ballast. You can also at this first stage weather the track to make it look rusty and dirty.

[@kanehood3478]

When I did my ballast I did it the different types completely separately so when you tip the loose ballast off it can be collected and reused, but tipping more than one type at a time will mix the unused ballast making it useless for reusing

[@robertlacy7852]

This is really helpful. I’m looking at creating my own model railway for the first time and any helpful hints are always welcome.

[@agnostic47]

Great first effort. You'll have learnt a lot from doing it and if there's a next time I'm sure there are a few things you'll do differently. I've been dabbling in model railways in various scales for over 50 years and still keep thinking "why did I do it like that?". It's track THEN ballast.

[@Redjintyman]

Ah yes my favorite model railway series *building a layout for days that are unknown*

[@kimberlycooksley]

Little things. But seconds in, I now know what the railer/derailer is for. Was gifted one recently and was about to bin it. Thanks

[@solidsnake4595]

watching others build a modle railway layout makes me smile as i wish i had the room for my stuff as it is my models are locked up in a cubbord due to the size of my flat

[@isaacpj9754]

You could always attempt a simple shunting layout? Eg: inglenook sidings or a depot

[@Poliss95]

Try N or Z gauge. :-)

[@solidsnake4595]

@@Poliss95 lol i dont think you get it because i didnt explain how bad my flat situation is XD that is my fault! i live in a flat designed for a student effectively is a 1 bedroom flat that has a large bedoom yes and a large living room however it has to accomodate a wife, her stuff and my stuff meaning there is no room for a layout even on the Z scale worst of all my models occupy the only cubbord space in the flat lol. and if you know much about buildings well here is the dimentions of my flat: Bedroom: 12 ft east/west, 7 ft North/South Bathroom: 6ft East/West by 4 ft North/South Kitchen: 6ft East/West by 6ft North/South Living Room: 8ft East/West by 8ft North/South Hallway: 1.5 ft by 17ft from bedroom to living room no front or back garden and the london to manchester mainline about 20 odd ft from my flat lol. also the only cubbord is just off the bedroom and sits infront of my bathroom and is easily half a foot by 2 ft in length. also this is normal for england lol i am disabled from work due to MSD (musculo-skeletal disorder) whiel id love to work the issue is something the DWP lists as an unemployable disability. and yes me and my wife are on a rehoming lists have been for two years with nothing provided to us on a potential bigger home :) ah england what a fucked up country we live in! also i am 36 years old my wife is 34 and the size of our flat prevents us having a family as every nook and cranny is taken up with stuff from the last place we lived in.

[@solidsnake4595]

finally even if i had the room im not sure what kind of layout id build as i have 20 years of model collecting to layout and its mostly steam era with some diesel era stuff lol

[@cdz12v]

Move to north England big houses are cheaper 😀

[@cec_oregon]

❤😊❤Cant wait to sell everything i own to be able to afford this😊❤😊

[@grichguy]

Hi, well done for having a go. It's a good start to have a plan of what you want to achieve. The track should have definitely gone down first and then the ballest on after as the crossing will be a nightmare to lay on top of what you have done.

[@jamesmcguinness8162]

This is very helpful if you are building your first layout.

[@markreadman4414]

What ever type of base board you use, its best to coat with thinned PVA glue first this will make it easier to paint later.. for me it's got to be track first because all other hights and levels of every thing else rely on flat level track. Good luck. Don't be ashamed to start again we live and learn .. Mark

[@rayj645]

Its your layout yougr choose have fun. I always lay track then ballast

[@craigruddlesdin9561]

Always ballast after otherwise your track bed will not be flat and it will will very in even and the ballast wont sit between the sleepers and you won’t have shoulders

[@danthestaffordman]

interesting to see other peoples methods. I always say there is no right or wrong way of modelling, but the correct way of doing it is what suits you well done.

[@palamj2]

You did show that loco much respect as you ripped it out of the box. 😂😂

[@roselinerussell4928]

Nice kitchen, stick the kettle on and have a cuppa while you Vlog... XXX

[@thoriumplayzz7436]

yep!

[@johnd8892]

Lots of high standard interesting layouts do not use ballast at all. Helps them get high standard runnng and enables future expansion to be much simpler. The best approach for beginners perhaps.

[@diedertspijkerboer]

I'm currently laying track, after having watched many vids on the subject. My method is: 1. lay (cork) underlay. This dampens the sound and the vertical motion, which allows the trains to run more smoothly. Use a glue that doesn't dry up hard, because that takes away the dampening effect. I'm experimenting with thick wallpaper glue. 2. Glue on the track with same glue. 3. Test track by running a train 4. ballast track. Spread ballast out with a soft paintbrush. Tap track with underside of teaspoon to move remaining ballast off the sleepers. 5. Inundate ballast with diluted glue with a drop of dishwashing soap in it. The soap removes the surface tension, allowing the glue to soak into the ballast. Let dry for a few days. Hope this helps someone.

[@arthurwellesley1815]

I put the balast on the tracks first and then i spray some thinned pva on it

[@mikehalligan6085]

On the Hornby site their video shows them ballasting track before laying track.

[@mikehalligan6085]

Meant laying the ballast before doing the track.

[@richardwarner9816]

Great video, thanks for posting!

[@johnsterling7420]

Lay out your track first, the. Way you want it, then the scenery.👍

[@Trainspotting11111]

Well what I do is put the Ballast second and sometimes on eBay I find track sweepers

[@Poliss95]

I use ready ballasted Kato track. If I was using ordinary track I'd always lay the track first and then ballast. You don't want uneven track which can derail the rolling stock, especially on points. I think it took you more time to remove the track, ballast the baseboard and then put the track back on than it would have taken if you'd glued the track first and sprinkled the ballast on top of it. Why Hornby insist on showing the wrong way to lay track, (which will cause beginners problems and could put them off the hobby), I'll never know.

[@1fourcore]

Good way to get to know the products you are selling . And how people use them .

[@williamhiggins1963]

Great tutorial for beginners

[@simonharrington450]

Fantastic video.

[@blackbob100]

This great, thank you

[@jakeandfriends3554]

Track first means it's Easter to get the graval in the sleepers

[@RaysRailVideos]

Always lay track first, then do the electrics and test, than last of all ballast and other bits

[@rileytomo11]

I used felt for my ballast

[@whiteroseBR]

Personally I don't know anyone who ballasts first, you should always get your track down, proof run it, then ballast over the top

[@richardpetts5149]

Great video Mike, looking forward to following this, I should try doing the same some time soon

[@Whizzy-jx3qe]

Underlay first,track second then ballast.

[@ArchieObrien-w7u]

Does anyone know how long i should let the grass/ballast dry for as im going to also be making my 1st layout soon???

[@alextrott5460]

Just out of curiosity where did you get the baseboard for your layout? Or unless anyone else can point me in the direction to be able to get some?

[@Poliss95]

Looks like 12mm MDF available from B&Q.

[@modelrailwaynoob]

I have mine delivered from a local woodyard and collect it when there are no restrictions. I use 9mm hardwood ply and then some pine framing underneath. I pay a little extra and have the wood yard (builders merchant) cut the wood for me as their cuts are better than mine can ever be, plus I am lazy. B&Q do a cutting service but it is hit and miss whether it is open or not. MDF is cheaper but not as good. If you want landscaping and depth, we tend to put insulation foam on top and some even make the whole layout on this foam with wooden support instead of a whole wooden baseboard.

[@RaysRailVideos]

I use 6mm ply for the top and 2in by 1 in for the frame. Any good timber merchant will cut your boards to the size you require. Id say shop around as places like b&q are expensive compared to little local timber yards

[@hadynmcloughlin4661]

Would someone mind confirming what scale/guage this is layout is please? New to the hobby

[@honibear61]

Did you have to buy all the pieces or did hornby give them to you?

[@christopherdavey2329]

Hi wot glue do you use to stick the people

[@HornbyModelRailways]

Hi Christopher, on this occasion I used a super strong adhesive I had in my cupboard although you could use any clear adhesive you might have. Thanks for watching! - Mike

[@christopherdavey2329]

Are you doing another layout build Mike

[@HornbyModelRailways]

Hi Christopher, I am planning to build a larger layout with the help of everyone watching. You will be able to vote and advise me on tips and tricks along the way. Keep your eyes peeled for more info in our Signal Box series. - Mike

[@christopherdavey2329]

Hi Mike wot size was the board you did your first layout on

[@charleswalsh9895]

I lay cork road bed then track then ballast

[@hawk5721]

how fast did you open that box???

[@dereknorth8192]

hi i think you would be better to lay the track first then do your ballast after then you wont waist so much ballast ok derek i think that others will agree with me.

[@TeamDriveBy]

Done

[@jameshardy4354]

I would lay the track first so the track is flat then ballast

[@thedona.r.kbnoah7334]

Train World 😷👀👍

[@paulbrennan3760]

How much did all that cost?

[@7r47ufchfyw7twguwgu]

I feel sorry for you I'm in Australia stay safe

[@davidsheriff8989]

Do you actually see railway stations like this in real life?

[@edwardmortimer2150]

I was literally just painting a rock face on my layout when I closed the lid of the paint and it exploded everwhere

[@christopherdavey2329]

Bless

[@a.m11558]

It’d be really nice if we could afford anything

[@kevin-charlesbeaudry4695]

That’s just a promotional advert for HORNBY hahaha… I see trough your game « MIKE », I see… 👀😂

[@rileytomo11]

You can put graffiti and stuff on your buildings

[@jackhstproductions649]

If I see 1 more comment saying track and then ballast I am gonna go nuts lol. It only took a couple of people to say bloody hell

[@federicocresci698]

nooooooooooo...... that´s not how do you put the ballast

[@edwinturner4536]

I'm sorry but the backdrop your kitchen is not helpful. Edwin.

[@mancity_proximity]

feet

[@greatwestern93]

Worked for Hornby for 3 years yet never made a layout, presumably no interest?

[@gbjanuary]

GreatWestern93 more interest in Hornby trains during lockdown I think.

[@bambostarla6259]

He probably just is a train enthusiast and not a modeller.

[@RaysRailVideos]

Well what a great time to get interested and get use to hornbys products learning whats good and whats not so good

[@greatwestern93]

@@RaysRailVideos as if he,a Hornby employee will say anything bad about Hornby products 😂 😁

[@paulthurston2883]

At first glance I thought he was Richard Tice : )

[@philipbird2782]

Done