[How It Works] Motorcycle Charging System

[@Danny-fs1hk]

Excellent video; you are a very good teacher!

[@howtomoto]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@bobbybarrett7477]

Thanks. This has helped me get the ball rolling with my street triple diagnostic.

[@howtomoto]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@YNTGUNS]

Very nice video. Just ordered a stator for my zx10 one of the coils burnt out. Bike was not being charged and battery kept dying.

[@howtomoto]

It's pretty satisfying doing it yourself. BTW, I haven't replaced any part of my charging system or even charged my battery once since this video :)

[@MrBoomtheroom]

is the power from the regulator sent through the solenoid + terminal to the battery?

[@zhukie]

For a complete noob at any mech related, thanks for the awesome video, cheers! Not sure if my bike's battery is bad or if its the charging system as yet (waiting on a multimeter atm) Nice to see an aussie too heh. Have a good one mate :)

[@howtomoto]

Thanks mate

[@howtomoto]

Check this thread, it covers everything from testing your stator to testing your RR: bit.ly/2sX9wb5

[@jorgelsanchez4388]

What do I need to make my 2022 ktm 250 sx "2 stroke" into street legal? I know I need turn signals,head light etc.But I'm looking to have a battery & a charging system!

[@MrMarcusdavila]

Hey brother! Thanks for the video. Recently, I was riding and the bike (09 Daytona 675) lost all power and shit down. Now, the bikes power will come on, but won't start, only makes a single click. Problem is, i checked the maintenance records and the bike just had the stator replaced three months ago and I swapped the battery out last month. Any idea what could be causing my stator/charging system to continue to fail even after replacing? Obviously the RR would be the next step for me, but just wanted to get your opinion.

[@howtomoto]

Check whether the stator was replaced with an OEM original or aftermarket. OEM original or even OEM rewound is better than an aftermarket. Try the quick test with the multimeter I mentioned in the video and then check this thread for the stator test, it covers everything from testing your stator to testing your RR: bit.ly/2sX9wb5

[@MrMarcusdavila]

How To Moto thanks man! But I just took her apart yesterday. The three wires from the stator to rr were melted together. Apparently the previous owner had he stator replaced and redid the wiring. Used too thin of wire, not enough resistance. I appreciate the reply man. Best of luck

[@ParrotHead1809]

Awesome overview !!

[@BansheeBatteries]

Check out Banshee batteries- the best warranty in the industry

[@JOHNMINKA]

exellent vide best ive seen im getting 16.3 v reving so im thinking rectifier gone i have 3 yellow wire and a black and red one and im thinking of upgrading rectifier im not getting the risistance as in book. But i would not know if i upgraded which of the 3 yellow wires would go to what yellow wire on the harnes. a video on the upgrade you did would be good to the honda one and how the connections work to the harness.

[@howtomoto]

The order of the three yellow wires does not matter. Check this thread, it covers everything from testing your stator to testing your RR: bit.ly/2sX9wb5

[@jonathanbrainmusic7303]

Hey mate, thanks heaps. I have an '07 Street Triple whose charging system has just frazzed. Into the rabbit hole I go.

[@howtomoto]

+jonathan brain music let me know if you need any advice or tips, happy to help :)

[@jonathanbrainmusic7303]

Thanks mate - can you help interpret the following data from diode test of my r/r? Multimeter negative on output positive, positive to inputs- 0.112 on all three inputs Multimeter positive on output positive, negative - out of limit on all three inputs Multimeter negative on output negative, positive to inputs - out of limit on all three inputs Multimeter positive on output negative, negative to inputs - 0.545 on all three inputs

[@howtomoto]

It looks ok from those readings, as long as you're not getting a "short" reading (I'm assuming your multimeter is on diode test mode). Another very simple test is to measure the voltage across the battery when the bike is running. When revving the bike, the voltage should be very stable, if it's fluctuating up as you rev and then going back down, the rectifier is bad. Secondly, test the stator as well, because the R/R can only do it's job properly if the stator is working properly as well. Measure the stator output voltages (positive to 1 of 3 outputs, negative to ground) when the bike is running and see if all 3 outputs have the same voltage (don't rev this one too much as the voltages will reach 70 to 100 V) This thread is also very useful: www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=35227

[@jonathanbrainmusic7303]

Dude - you're a legend, thanks heaps. No short, as far as I can tell. I was using diode test mode. I should have mentioned that the stator is fried - it gave a short reading so I opened it up and sure enough a bit of a charred mess.

[@howtomoto]

One bit of advice I strongly recommend, is to only use OEM stators. whether that be brand new, second hand, or rewound. I rewound mine, and it looked better than stock.

[@tones160]

Whats the size of the r/r wires? They look like 12 gauge. Can you confirm?

[@howtomoto]

I'm not sure what gauge they are, here in Australia we refer to cables by the cross sectional area of the copper inside. I used 6.0 mm^2 cable from this Australian company bit.ly/2nOphPU. I chose it because of the high amperage and voltage it could handle. It's definitely overkill, but I am yet to have a problem.

[@ELCHACA]

Can some one help me... Plz My stator 3 yellow wires get super hot, is that normal?

[@howtomoto]

That is very normal, just keep an eye on the connectors and insulation and make sure it's not getting burnt or brittle or melting.

[@ELCHACA]

@@howtomoto connectors got melted, so i ran them straight....

[@howtomoto]

Mine melted too, so I bought very high amperage wiring, and ran new wires from the stator to a brand new R/R, completely bypassing the standard wiring harness. These new wires were about twice the thickness and they only get warm now, not hot.

[@ELCHACA]

@@howtomoto bro one other concerned that I have, it's that when I bought my Wildcat (artic cat) it wasn't charging, so got a new battery, new stator (magneto) and a new rectifier.... well I didn't install the gasket ride so it was leaking oil, so I opened it again and I noticed that the magnets on the stator where scratched like if it was touching the flywheel.... when I took the old stator out it had the same deep scratches... Is that normal?... Do u know?

[@howtomoto]

@@ELCHACA This is probably one I'd refer to a real mechanic, it would be too hard to tell what is causing this without being there.

[@fatihkose8448]

Hello, my alternatör gives 14.65 Max rpm.. l thing it has a problem?

[@nikhilrote752]

bro, i have pronlem, my bike battery always goes down.please suggest me , what can I do,?

[@howtomoto]

Check this thread, it covers everything from testing your stator to testing your RR: bit.ly/2sX9wb5

[@ksingleton101]

The Stator spins? Why does my Stator only have 2 wires?

[@howtomoto]

+K Singleton the stator is actually stationary, the metal cylinder it sits within spins. A stator with 2 wires is just a simpler design (single phase) as apposed to a 3 wire design (3 phase) but the principles of how it works are still the same.

[@HaXeDick]

@@howtomoto Thanks!

[@ChristopherSmith-bh4sz]

The coils are not magnets, the magnets are in the rotor.

[@howtomoto]

+Christopher Smith the coils are wrapped around the magnets, which are all packaged together as the "stator".

[@streetskater63]

You forgot to film The voltmeter when starting the bike big mistake.

[@howtomoto]

The purpose of filming the voltmeter was to show the 3 voltage readings (bike off, ignition on, bike running) to determine if the charging system was working correctly. Filming the voltmeter during start-up did not serve a purpose in the point I was trying to portray.