How to Draft a Trouser Pattern w/ Your Measurements | Guide to a Bespoke Suit

This is a simple step by step method to drawing a trouser pattern using taken measurements.
The entire perimeter of this finished pattern has a 1cm seam allowance except for the hem.
As is clear I make the pattern with metric measurements, but of course you can make direct conversions to imperial if that's your cup of coffee. Using a 3/8" seam allowance will make an almost negligible difference.
For a woman's trouser pattern: Four to five is 1/8 scale minus 1.5cm, and five to seventeen is 1/8 scale plus 1.5cm, plus four darts to reduce the size of the waist from the seat.
The measurements that I'm using here:
Outside leg: 105
Inside leg: 72
Body rise: 33 (outside leg minus the inside leg)
Waist: 77.5
Seat: 96
Knee: 44
Hem: 37
Scale: 48 (1/2 scale = 24) (1/8 scale = 6)
Standard measurements:
Outside leg: 104
Inside leg: 77
Body rise: 26
Waist: 82
Seat: 98
Knee: 48
Hem: 42
Scale: 49 (1/2 scale = 24.5 ) (1/8 scale = 12.25 )
My trouser measuring video: • Taking Measurements to...
Maurice Sedwell measuring video: • TAKING DIRECT MEASUREM...
If you are confused at any point look through this playlist, ask a question in the comments or PM me on IG. • Start here - Intro and...
/ thecaffeinatedtailor
Timestamps
0:00 - Intro
2:45 - 0 Front trouser
3:19 - 1
3:05 - 2
3:28 - 3
3:39 - 4
3:47 - 5
4:02 - 6
4:11 - 7
4:26 - 8
4:43 - 9
4:53 - 10
5:05 - 11
5:28 - 12,13,14,15 and drawing the leg
7:52 - 16
8:34 - Back trouser
8:55 - 17
9:08 - 18,19
9:32 - 20
10:12 - 21
10:33 - 22
10:40 - 23
10:45 - 24
10:57 - 25
10:25 - 26
11:35 - 27
11:43 - 28
11:56 - 29
12:01 - 30
12:17 - 31,32
13:50 - Checking the inside and outside leg balances
14:18 - Drawing the seat seam
15:55 - Back dart
16:08 - Test and adjust
18:18 - Labeling and hanging my patterns
19:22 - Abridged guide to drafting womans trousers

[@Sky-cs9xj]

Thank you for videos!😊 First trouser that I make based on your drafting fits nicely and didn't need to do any adjustments. And following your trouser making videos I just finished a trouser that fits me really well. I really appreciate your generosity in sharing your knowledge to a newbie like me. Please continue sharing!😊🙏👏

[@tonimalwane3599]

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us.

[@Ryanw131]

Really excited I've found this channel! It's so hard to find good info on menswear pattern cutting etc. Thanks!

[@jojoremeny]

Do you know this is the blind leading the blind!! This "snot" hasn't a clue about real bespoke Tailoring -he's just a student with zero experience cutting and sewing real bespoke tailored trousers.. You don't use numbers like this. This is not real bespoke tailoring cutting at all .He's not even a teacher,not even a qualified tailor ,just a small little student -terrible methods and terrible teaching.. I'm a real bespoke tailor, fashion designer,teacher, educator and creative content creator teaching and making traditional bespoke tailored suits and Couture designs from my shop in England.. I will be launching some new courses in real Bespoke Tailoring later this year.. This is what irks me terribly. Bad contents and incorrect methods being taught by amateurs .. That's why it's all free !! Top quality teaching and content you need to let for.. All of my Tutorials are paid contents!. This student is just a student.. Don't follow any of his methods.. You will get into big trouble ..

[@Ryanw131]

@@jojoremeny wow. I hope no one purchases your courses because someone with an attitude like this doesn't deserve that success. Your comment REEKS of narcissism and bitterness. No one cares if this isn't Saville row level tailoring, it's a free KZbin video. These are people who enjoy the craft spreading what info they do know to other people who enjoy it, I don't work on Saville Row and nor do I strive to, elitist Toxic BS like you've spouted would turn anyone off doing that.

[@Tgrant747]

Great content. I'm learning a lot

[@MaciejSzulc-tm3dr]

Bro, this is an absolutely bangin' video I can't stress enaugh how happy I am for someone to be explaining this science, it's very hard to find quality and clear content on bespoke tailoring. I have two questions about the construction. 1. What is the reason for adding 1cm to the inside seam measurement (points 1-2)? Does the curve of the thigh take away this amount when the fabric drapes over the body? 2. the outside side seam curve - I find that curving the line where the thigh will be (between points 9 and 15) creates too much drape making a sort of britches look. I found that in metric pattern cutting books by W. Aldrich this line stays mostly straight and in order to soften the peak at point 9 the hipline is curved out 0.5cm instead (between points 9 and 10 according to your system). Have you had troubles with this as well? And what do you think about the solution from the metric pattern cutting system? Keep up the good work caffeinated tailor! There's people watching and learning from you. Thanks in advance and good luck!

[@caffeinatedtailor]

I wouldn't really call this the science, but thanks, I'm not necessarily 100% on the ins and outs of the process. First question, I always got the impression it was the seam allowance for the seat seam. In other drafting methods nothing is added at all. Second, yes this drafting method creates a wild amount of drape and i think if you showed it to any tailor tailor they'd tell you to learn a new method from scratch. I think if you do what you said it could help. I'm trying to think through a new method based on this, without just derivatively copy/pasting the imperial method I have since been taught. That said, this one is generally easier to follow, so I don't think I will scrap it. Glad I could help

[@locki13]

Just for clarification point 1 at 3:00mark = body rise - 4cm for the waistband. Or body rise and take 4cm more for the waistband. Guessing take away? Dont want to go wrong at the first hurdle, although im sure it would become apparent quite quickly!

[@caffeinatedtailor]

No worries. You find the body rise and that will include the waistband. So we take away the 4cms here because the waistband gets added on top when we make the trouser.

[@locki13]

@@caffeinatedtailor thanks for the reply; guessed this was the case, good to know for sure. if I'd set out everything from a faulty point 1 it would have been an unfortunate set back. Thanks for all your videos, they are superb!

[@locki13]

16 minutes mark. The 7a-10 + 25-30. Compared to waist/2 + 6. Mine ends up being 51cm measured to 52.5cm. So under 1.5cm instead of over by 2.5cm. Seems out by a lot? even though all other checks seem okay, and the patterns line up. How would one go about checking where one has gone wrong? I'm going to go back through it all again, just wondering if there's something I can be checking for/ what adjustments I can make!

[@caffeinatedtailor]

@@locki13 this kind of thing depends on the difference between the seat and waist. Personally these days I would put your 1.5 extra into a 1.5 cm dart on the back, so that there is no ease in the waistband. This makes the trouser more repeatable, you can make the exact same pattern each time. Otherwise 1.5 is fine just remember that That is how much ease the waistband has.

[@locki13]

@@caffeinatedtailor thanks, so much for the reply, I think I'll proceed and see where I need to adjust and learn as I do. I suppose I was worried that I was under 1.5 as opposed to 2.5 over. And I wouldn't have enough material. I think I'll try out on the trouser making video with a cheaper fabric and see how the pattern works out! Thanks again! I'd add, it was fun to follow along, I haven't done any pattern making before!

[@hazeleypascoe1662]

Great, clearly explained process. I have watched through before attempting to follow along and had a question about sizes.measurements. What is the wearing ease on these? It looks like they would come up pretty slim fitting around the hips but I just wanted to check what ease you are building into the pattern (and ask how it might be adjusted) Thanks 😀

[@caffeinatedtailor]

Yes, I find it is usually close around the seat. I think the ease around the hips is about 3cm on the half. I find myself often moving the seat seam at the waist 0.5cm towards the side seam and around where the seat starts to curve move that out of the pattern 0.5cm as well. Practically tilting the straight line of the seat seam. Make this the new seat line and curve that into the current seat seam curve. This is one of a few ways you could change the fit of the trouser.

[@Sjarkas]

Really nice and straightforward drafting instructions. Super helpful to getting started! One question though: I didn't find any mentioning of how much seamallowance is included or if there is any? Maybe I'm just stupid 🙃

[@caffeinatedtailor]

That should also get answered in the video where I cut out the pattern, but there is a 1cm seam allowance all around the trouser except on the hem

[@lupissarra]

Does this follow any specific tailoring/modelling system/tradition/author/? Can you recommend a book? I'm interested in female garments so I want to understand the conversion from anatomy to pattern. Is what you call 'seat' what's usually referred to as the 'hip circumference'?

[@caffeinatedtailor]

I don't necessarily know any books and this system is just the one I was taught. I wasn't given a name or origin for it. The female body conversion is probably an oversimplification, but it's worked for me so far. I'd say the seat is lower down than the hip circumference, but in womens wear I imagine it can pay to take both measures.

[@PabloGalvezP]

Hi master, would it be possible to have the drafting process instructions in writing for a better follow up of the video?

[@caffeinatedtailor]

You don't need to say master, that's a bit premature. I can give you the script for the video which might be what you're looking for. docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vRqwUQzrKueTgLJTH6eOZjkQ7bou26eL5Tz_j6IInZpRk5LK47gIzABUesXuVwKx7AHhnE3VPPo67Q5/pub

[@KevKevAllen]

What drafting system is this? I don’t think it was mentioned in the video.

[@caffeinatedtailor]

It isn't. I don't know what it's called.

[@HungTran-zc7oy]

Đây có phải là quần Nam dáng ôm không thưa thầy

[@caffeinatedtailor]

chúng không phải là quần bó sát. chúng phù hợp tương tự với những thứ này instagram.com/p/CdLVl6KNbxc/?igsh=enRnMTI0cno4dWxk I hope it's apparent I used Google translate for that.

[@HungTran-zc7oy]

@@caffeinatedtailor Dạ vâng xin cảm ơn thầy

[@HungTran-zc7oy]

Rất mong được thầy dạy quần Nam dáng ôm

[@caffeinatedtailor]

Tôi cũng vậy

[@HungTran-zc7oy]

@@caffeinatedtailor Dạ vâng xin cảm ơn thầy

[@salimpasha7536]

Can i buy this pattern plz

[@caffeinatedtailor]

Buy my trouser pattern?

[@salimpasha7536]

Yes sir also buy shirt pattern so hot it can

[@caffeinatedtailor]

@@salimpasha7536 can you find me on Instagram to discuss this please?

[@locki13]

Is there any good videos you can recommend on taking either someone else's or your own measurements. It seems a somewhat confounding process. Considering it is best to be as accurate as is possible when constructing the material. I feel as though I'll likely take all the measurements inaccurately and get poor foundations on which the whole project suffers on. Get that wrong and your doomed from the start sort of thing. Thanks again!

[@caffeinatedtailor]

Funnily enough I made a short video on taking measurements today, to come out on Friday. It will start my new trouser making series and is quite specific my video here. Though I also usually suggest people see the Maurice Sedwell direct measurements video.

[@caffeinatedtailor]

If you can't wait to Friday: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGHZlWdperN8Z8k

[@locki13]

Well I'll definitely be checking out Fridays vid. I'll check out the m.sedwell measurement vid too thanks. I was going through the samples videos for the bespoke suit which is all great. however wanted an understanding of the overall makeup of the trouser(as I was completing the single welted pocket) . And started down a side rabbit hole (a bit beyond my level it feels at the moment) of pattern making. And then measurements. Hopefully I'll have my head round it a bit more ta! 😉