HOW TO: DT Swiss Hubs // COMPLETE TEARDOWN & REBUILD

[@peterho3299]

There are many YT videos on breaking down DT Swiss style hubs and I’ve viewed more than my share of them, but I always appreciate your videos for your clear, methodical explanations and your engineering drawings on the fly which always puts things into a helpful perspective for the rest of us. Can I suggest that you do a future video on cartridge bearings where we hear your thoughts about the different types (seals, materials, etc) and makers (NTN, NSK, Enduro, no name)? Cycling enthusiasts get excited about shaving a few grams or aero shapes, but most of us aren’t pro cyclists cranking at 50 kph in the flats. I think rotational parts (design, build, maintenance) parts, like bearings and chain links, make an oversized difference in cycling efficiency, thus enjoyment, but don’t get sufficient attention.

[@TheBikeSauce]

Great idea. Thanks!

[@3TZZZ]

Agree, a video on replacement cartridge bearings would be very helpful in addition to this

[@johnnypoulsen2794]

the best video I ever have been seeing on the DT swiss hub and very nice illustration. great job you have done

[@RideReconReply]

Brilliant! Love the side cut out illustration.

[@thomaskuhn6541]

Excellent info, thanks for putting this together. You were asking recently for feedback on why your video metrics were off by a bit. Well, for me, you hit the sweet spot here.

[@TheBikeSauce]

Great! Good to hear

[@thewintersteiner]

Another really interesting topic. Great camera work and editing too! Really one of the best I’ve seen on the topic. Thanks for all you do for us.

[@daveg7878]

Great video, thanks for posting. One thing I wanted to note (around 11:43) that folks should notice was when using the extension to hammer out the old bearing, you never struck the sleeve, only the revealed edge of the old bearing. It is clear you did the right thing but it seems like a mistake I'd make if I weren't watching closely enough. Again, great vid.

[@TheBikeSauce]

Right, thx for the clarification

[@GravelBikeCalifornia]

Time to make some workout videos after wrenching apart that vice!!

[@TheBikeSauce]

😆

[@dcv9460]

As always, it was a very educational vid!

[@3TZZZ]

Excellent video, thanks. Especially your drawing. ...But no grease between the ratchets themselves?? I always put some grease on those too, after all they're doing all the work. Also grease quietens freehub noise down a bit.

[@TheBikeSauce]

I mentioned anywhere you have metal to metal contact, grease is recommended. Video didn’t show applying grease to ratchets, but there’s some on there. Thx!

[@brankosabol]

I was recently replacing bearings on my Novatec front hub with similar axle with flanges. I have exactly the same aliexpress bearing set as you, but I was missing over axle adapter for pressing in second bearing. On reddit I found advice to use end cap instead of over axle adapter, and also you can use QR skewer to press the bearing in if you don't have a press. Worked like a charm.

[@TheBikeSauce]

End cap is genius!

[@subliminalfreedom]

Servicing my old pawl freehub was miserable. I can't wait to wear out and service a star hub!

[@reinhold339]

😊Super Perfekt

[@mattkavanaugh5623]

In my DT Swiss 240S hub, and shown in the DT Swiss YT video, there is a shim washer on top (outboard side) of the drive-side hub bearing and under/inside the ring nut. I did not see that referenced in this video?

[@TheBikeSauce]

Thanks for bringing that up! Mine had that shim too. Mine was damaged but I was told that it’s not necessary to reinstall it. When I get a replacement shim, I’ll put it in there.

[@andrewdinin4819]

Excellent video. Very informative. Can you tell me the brand of your bearing press and where you purchased it? Thanks much.

[@TheBikeSauce]

Link should be in the description. Let me know if it’s not

[@BikeNorthSeattle]

Great video! do ceramic bearings actually give you ant benefit at the typically low RPM that bike wheels spin at?

[@TheBikeSauce]

Good question. I’ve been hesitant to answer that just yet since I don’t have any data on it. First impression is that they’re smooth, but indistinguishable from a standard bearing. I believe the benefit comes in the form of longevity, but that’s hard to quantify

[@mattkavanaugh5623]

@@BikeNorthSeattle I’ve seen videos on YT (Mapdec and Hambini) that ceramic aren’t really worth it as the races wear more quickly (they aren’t ceramic, only the ball bearings are), and the reduction in friction is negligible

[@mattkavanaugh5623]

Perfect timing of this video for me! I discovered yesterday that my DT Swiss 240S rear hub was not spinning freely, although it freed up after riding for a few minutes. Before then it was noticeably increasing pedaling resistance. So I think it needs servicing, but maybe not replacing bearings? Input on this from anyone would be appreciated. Also, is it appropriate to put some light grease, just a bit, on the ratchet rings? Thanks !

[@TheBikeSauce]

I’d say if you’re going to go to the trouble to open it up and service it (clean and regrease), you may as well get some fresh bearings in there if it’s been a while. You can lightly grease the ratchets if you’re trying to quiet the hub down a bit

[@mattkavanaugh5623]

@ Thanks! I ordered the bearings and the ratchet ring tool. Fingers crossed it all goes well…

[@LogosComponents]

Hi Matt, for dual-spring star ratchet hubs like ours, we recommend using Dumond Tech Freehub Grease (not oil) for the ratchets. It's a bit thinner than park polylube, which lets it engage more consistently. DT also makes their own special grease for this purpose as well. A light coating is all you need on the ratchets - less is more generally!

[@mattkavanaugh5623]

@ Thanks for this input. I used an MTB suspension grease on the ratchets, very thin and runny, almost like oil. And I did not use much, and the re-opened the hub and wiped it all down agains, but I still got the drag in the system. I don’t think it’s the free hub, I suspect the bearings in the hub body that I may have installed incorrectly. I took it to my LBS and left it with them the sort out as I couldn’t figure it out.

[@Fatbutnotflat]

Miss the engineering sketches. And i dont even own a dt style hub!

[@TheBikeSauce]

😄

[@oplkfdhgk]

Can you test the new ztto p5 hub. I would like to know if it's any good.

[@KennethWuAU]

Do the Logos hubs parts work interchangeably with DT350 hubs and vice versa? Can use dt Swiss parts on logos wheels?

[@KennethWuAU]

Quote from Logos FAQ: “While riders have had success using DT Swiss components with Logos hubs, using DT Swiss components on Logos wheels and hubs will void the warranties of all DT Swiss components used. Riders combining DT Swiss and Logos components should be aware that they do so at their own risk.” But how well does it work? That would be super interesting to know.

[@TheBikeSauce]

Good question. I was told they’re interchangeable, but perhaps it’s a liability thing. What would you want to test for compatibility? Axle, star ratchets, freehub?

[@KennethWuAU]

@@TheBikeSauce I'm mainly interested in star ratchet compatibility because it's much easier to find DT Swiss ratchets here in Australia than OEM Logos parts. The freehub's interchangeability will also mean I can leave my freehub attached to my cassettes when swapping wheelsets between DT Swiss and Logos.

[@mattkavanaugh5623]

I attempted the hub service including all 4 bearings replaced. But now there is drag, resistance. The pedals spin on their own and it won’t freewheel , coast. Any suggestions as to what I did wrong? Seems like maybe too much load / preload on the bearings?

[@TheBikeSauce]

Try and isolate the drag. Remove wheel, see if it spins if you hold from the end caps. Remove freehub and see if the wheel still spins. Check for smooth rotation of each bearing. If there’s only drag after you tighten the wheel into the bike, it could be one of the springs binding and not compressing properly, which could create a restrictive axial force. It could also be that you installed the ratchet lock ring backwards

[@mattkavanaugh5623]

@ Thanks! I tried all of these things and also tapping the axel from the drive side to take a little pre-load off. None of it worked. I did take the free hub off and took out the ratchet ring nut to be sure it was all assembled correctly, which it seemed to be. I finally gave up and took it my LBS. Their initial thoughts included maybe the bearings were not pressed in correctly. That could well be the problem, I don’t have a bearing press and used the ratchet ring tool, the axel and other improvisations to install the bearings. I did learn a lot, but get it 90% done right isn’t good enough : (

[@LogosComponents]

@@mattkavanaugh5623 Hi Matt, If the pedals turn when the rear wheel is spinning in the stand it is likely that you're missing the axle sleeve that keeps the freehub spaced away from the hubshell (you can see it at 1:36 in this video). If that is still in place and undamaged, then it might be possible that the bearings were over preloaded when they were installed. You can check this by removing the freehub and feeling the bearings for notchiness in both the freehub body and the hub axle. Hope this helps!

[@mattkavanaugh5623]

@@LogosComponents Thanks! The spacer is still there. I think i messed up the bearing preload but i can’t figure out where or how to install the bearings differently as i don’t have the special presses. I took it to my LBS for them to sort out. Sort of a defeat but i did take it apart twice and got it all back together although with drag in the system. 😒. Frustrating.

[@dashofawesome64]

@@mattkavanaugh5623 If the bearings feel free. Then there is a pretty big chance there is to much grease in the ratchet system. Right semi thick grease is really important for it. Like Shimano freehub grease or the DT Swiss teflon grease for freehubs.

[@foxxxcat]

dont spin the wheels by spokes when You have ultralight spokes- they are so fragile :)