How to Install Zip-Up UnderDeck Drainage System

UPDATE: ZipUP Installation now requires pitch rails to be installed with a slope of 1/2 inch every 3 feet, rather than the 4 feet listed in this video.
Learn how to install the innovative Zip-Up UnderDeck Drainage system on your home today! Expand your family's living space out into the great outdoors with the polished look of Zip-Up UnderDeck Panels finishing the roof above you. With only 5 components creating the entire system, gaining an outdoor living room can be done within an afternoon.
Adding an Under Deck Drainage System is a genius way to update an older home, or to maximize the living space in a new build. Creating a dry, waterproof lower-level patio that allows you to keep the party outside no matter the weather, Drainage systems have really become a dream come true.
Crafting the deck, patio, or pergola you've always wanted is a big, exciting process, and we're happy to be a part of it. Give one of our talented deck designers a call at 1-888-824-5316 or send us an email at [e-mail]. We'd love to hear about the vision you have for your outdoor space and find you the products you need to create it.
You can find this product at DecksDirect.com: www.decksdirect.com/more-deck...
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Tools: power drill, hack saw, safety glasses, mini pry bar, right angle speed square, tin snips or utility knife, pencil, and 1-1/2 inch wood binder screws.
Optional Tools: miter saw and oscillating multi-tool
System Components: panels, main rails, pitch rails, wall trim, and seam trim
Attach the pitch rails to your joists. Pitch rails are offered in ½ inch and 1-inch profiles and are stacked together every 3 feet to create the proper pitch needed.
Wall trim will be mounted along all the sides of your deck except for the side where you will be attaching your gutter. Measure your wall length and trim the pieces to fit. At corners where two wall trims meet, miter the wall trims to 45-degree angles. They will be attached with wood binder metal roof screws every 2 to 3 feet.
Turn your panels upside down and mark 1 inch in from the ends of your panels. Do not trim any more than the 1 inch of material, as it could lead to leakage. Make this mark on the bead itself. Use an oscillating multi-tool to score on the mark and remove one inch of beading. This can also be removed with a utility knife. Cut your first panel to size. Trim using a utility knife. Cut your first panel. Mark this distance along the panel and score down using a utility knife. With the panel notched, simply press the outer edges up and down to split.
For your first panel, start at the wall and tuck one corner into the wall trims lower channel. Slide until the opposite corner enters the adjacent wall trim, creating an open triangle of space continue sliding inwards until the entire edge of the first panel is inserted into the wall trim's channel and that triangle of space has disappeared, tap the outside edge of the panel to ensure it is fully inserted along the wall trim.
Install your first main rail. Turn the main rail sideways and insert the end as far as possible into the wall trim opening. Curl the piece upwards into place until you hear a snap. Then along the length of the outside edge of the main rail snap the beading of the panel into place. Pull the top of the main rail up slightly to flatten the panel and attach with screws at every pitch rail. Do not to over-torque the screws.
To install the remaining panels and main rails, simply insert the trimmed end of the panel into the lower channel of the wall trim and snap the beading into place along the already installed main rail. Install the second main rail the same way you did the first. Continue installing panels and main rails the same way.
At the final opening, measure the opening and trim your panel widthwise to fit. Install just like you did your first panel. Gutters are sold separately. Make sure that the ends of the panels and rails on the open side are even and then measure and cut a piece of wall trim to fit your opening. Install the wall trim upside down so that the ends of the panels are captured by the lip of the wall trim, while the flat backside of the wall trim faces toward the gutter. This creates a waterfall effect and ensures that the water does not run backward. To remove a panel, push up in the center. Then using a mini pry bar or the claw end of your hammer, pry the exposed panel edge down one side at a time, once the seal is broken, the panel will unzip. Always remove panels from the center.

[@frankkennedy5361]

Excellent video. Many decks have a cantilever beyond the main beam of 2-3 feet. Please provide best practice for this area.

[@jlh2737]

Please tell me how to re-install the panels after I've taken them down.

[@kjomalle]

I have not seen any video or instructions on how to finish after installing the gutter. If attached to the house, then the wall trim will be the only product needed, but what do you do when the deck extends beyond the wall of the house, or adjacent to the deck stairs, etc. It will be ugly to stare at the exposed wall trim / pitch rails. How do you finish the look???

[@toroscosmicos9889]

Have yet to see one of these under deck ceiling systems that provide any form of airflow to prevent rot

[@frankkennedy5361]

The PVC material won’t rot. In addition, your joists be pressure treated and rot resistant. I expect there will be airflow down between the deck boards and at the end near the gutter. With Zipup, you could pull down and inspect an area for rot if you are in doubt. I’m about to install Zipup on a 12x12 deck, may change my opinion when done; but this system looks very promising to me.

[@darinrambo5285]

video shows pitch rails at 4 foot intervals. while the pdf you download from the website says 3 feet

[@DanielDemir]

Very good catch! I just saw it after reading your review. Thanks. Follow me, I will definitely create a better video

[@lugcap]

YOU HAVE NOT SHOWN ANY WAY TO INSTALL WHEN THE POLE IS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE THE AREA.

[@Imsierrabound]

Your video’s and instructions fail to mention supporting the two sides of the system where there are no walls to affix the side wall trim, only pitch rails. It’s not clear if both sides terminate in side wall trim or main rail suspended from the pitch rails that are attached to the end of the pitch rails. The wall trim looks too flimsy to support the panel on the edge.

[@ddvutg]

This is exactly what I was thinking when watching this video. My deck is 16x16 and with no walls other attached to the house. I will have to hold off on this product until I get an answer.

[@Imsierrabound]

@@ddvutg the side rail trim pieces were stiff enough to provide termination on both sides.

[@Mel-ib6rx]

L0

[@jakewrtt]

Shows most expensive new Makita miter saw then cheapest 20 year old Makita drill 😂

[@rodkindel2998]

Sorry cannot watch because of such lousy obnoxious useless idiotic music. To bad I was interested but such bad choice of noise suggest product is the same.

[@Decksdirect]

Hello, Rod! Thanks for reaching out to us! We're sorry to hear that the music in the video was so upsetting. If you would like, you may read through the installation instructions here: www.decksdirect.com/documentation/Zip-UP-UnderDeck-Install.pdf or simply select the mute and CC buttons to watch the video with text captions on but the sound removed. If you have any other questions, please feel free to give us a call at 1-888-824-5316. One of our deck designers would love to help. Thanks again!

[@DRBR-2020]

"too"

[@barbaracarey9557]

Rod Kindel is so much more obnoxious (as well as rude) than the music.

[@bippubippu297]

you just needed SOMETHING to say huh? child

[@kfaberdnt]

@Barbara Carey lol it's not even a video produced by the manufacturer but I'm guessing Mr. Entitled up there has no idea how to tell lol