Zip-Up UnderDeck Installation

UPDATE: ZipUP Installation now requires pitch rails to be installed with a slope of 1/2 inch every 3 feet, rather than the 4 feet listed in this video.
The Zip-Up UnderDeck System is a great way to double your outdoor living and entertaining space. Using interlocking high-quality PVC components and a few common household tools, you can transform unsightly deck framing into an attractive ceiling that channels away water.
Please consult the complete Zip-Up UnderDeck installation instructions at DecksDirect.com for more information.
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Installing the Zip-Up UnderDeck Drainage System is fast and easy. Not only will it provide a beautiful ceiling for your patio, but it's going to help protect it by draining water away from your house and into a gutter. The system is designed for the DIYer so it comes in only three different pieces: the wall trim, main rail, and panels. It also requires only a few tools to install. You will need a pair of shears, chalk line, cordless impact drill, tape measure, utility knife, and a large square. If it is available, an electric miter saw will make your project go a lot faster, but it is not necessary.
The first and most important step is taking measurements where you will be installing the product. Then you install your pitch rail. The pitch rail establishes the slope so water flows down to your gutter. Zip-Up has a 1/2 inch and a 1 inch thick pitch rail in their PVC material, but you cut your own using treated or cedar lumber. The system is designed to pitch 1/8 per foot. Use your chalk line to mark where you will be installing your pitch spacers. Use screws that are longer than your deepest pitch rail spacer.
After installing the pitch rail spacers, you will install the wall trim. Install the wall trim directly into the wall or attach it directly to the deck framing itself. If your wall surface is difficult you may need to pre-drill. Be sure the sidewall wall trim is up tight against the pitch rail spacers to create the proper slope.
Leave a 2 inch gap away from the edge of your deck to allow for the gutter to be mounted.
All panels come pre nipped at the end, but if you trim a panel or cut it to length, you will have to nip it yourself. Set it back about 3/4 inch, just far enough so that it's going to slide easily into the wall trim. Be careful when you're pushing into the bead so that you don't strain or crack the panel.
For the first panel, you will need to remove the entire bead off one side so it can slide into the wall trim. Score along the edge of the bead and gently rock it to remove it from the panel. Slide the panel into the wall trim against the house and slide the whole panel over and get it started into the sidewall wall trim. Hold a bit of pressure on the back end and work it in.
Then for the main rail lay it flat to get it into the wall trim and roll it so it's just over the bead. Snap it in and work it in down the entire panel. The main rails will find their own center, so there is no need to measure. Screw the main rail up with #8 by 1 inch stainless steel screws. Start at the smallest spacer and be careful not to drive the screws too far that it damages the rail. You just want them to be snug.
Repeat this process with another panel and main rail until you get to the opposite end. When you run into a joist hanger that hangs down, just cut the top end off the main rail that you need.
Around the perimeter of the deck and anywhere you cut an edge, seal with a PVC compatible silicone caulk to ensure water doesn't escape around the edges.
For the finishing touch of your project, you can use a conventional, aluminum gutter or a plastic one. To finish the edges for the gutter you could run a bead of silicone along the inside edge or install your wall trim reverse on your panel to create a waterfall effect to prevent splashback.
The Zip-Up UnderDeck System is also designed to come back down easily to allow quick access underneath your structure and for power washing the panels. Simply push up in the middle of the panel just enough to break the seams, then slide your flat tool, like a mini crowbar in the gap. Repeat that process on the other side of the panel and gentle pull the panel down.