How to Replace 2006 Honda Civic Sway Bar Link

[@FunctionFactory]

For people watching this video, the sway bar end links should be tightened snug with the wheels off the ground and tightened fully once the car is under load (i.e on car ramps or using the jack to raise the suspension from under the control arm. If you tighten the sway bar end links when the vehicle s NOT under load, than the end links will wear prematurely.

[@ronaldfortaleza1177]

Function Factory under load means tighten them on while on the ground right?

[@FunctionFactory]

Yea

[@K1L0BeatZ]

W video man really helps ensuring my confidence to fix my link on passenger side rather then take it into the shop

[@queefmicester1189]

The way you narrate makes me feel like I'm watching interdimentional television from Rick and Morty

[@peteparkins6152]

I thought the exact thing

[@rakkon1]

thanks man. simple, to the point.

[@brettas39]

Hi, just an update on my below comment. When I replace the other rear sway bar link, I put some rust remover on the rusted threads of bolt and some pb blaster (wd 40 would work too). I also wire brushed the bolt. Also, I would loosen the nut and then tighten it, going back and forth that way, which I think removed the rust on the threads. Little by little the nut worked its way out until it was removed. This work for the lower bolt that is connected to the frame or control arm of the car. For the upper bolt that connects the rear sway bar, I did the same, but the hex socket on the bolt got stripped or it became too difficult to turn (the sway bar kept moving which made it difficult too). So, I figured out how to use the locking pliers and did what you suggested. I also used an 18 inch long socket ratchet wrench with a 14mm socket. This extra torque allowed me to turn the nut until it was removed. The installation of the new link was pretty straightforward. You use a 17 mm wrench.

[@Seaview123123]

Thanks. I had the same thing happen to my car, this was really helpful.

[@bucketheadothers2384]

Hi, the links look the same whichever way you rotate them, is there an up and down? Or can they be used either way? Thank you

[@johnjoseph7382]

You just put an allen wrench on the inside of the sway link to hold the sway link so the nut will come off when you use a box wrench on the nut.

[@Gleeleeglee]

It is too stiff and two allen wrench broke already so I use his method and works with wd 40

[@brettas39]

Hi, I followed your video to replace the driver's side rear sway bar link. It looked like you replaced the front sway bar link on the passenger's side. My link was actually broken. The issue in the repair for me was the large amount of rust. I could not get the wheel off due to the rust even after kicking it and driving it with the lug nuts loosened. So, I repaired it with the wheel o. I am not sure if it would have made it easier to repair with the wheel off. I did get the nut with attached washer to turn a few threads on each of the bolts of the link, but then could not turn it further to remove it from the bolt. i ended up stripping the hex socket. Maybe, I should have wire brushed the bolt more to remove more of the rust or used a rust remover chemical other than WD 40. So, I ended up cutting the bolt off using a reciprocating saw at a location between the other washer that is attached to bolt and the sway bar aperture. It took a while but it worked. Soon, I am going to replace the rear sway bar link on the passenger's side. Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks for the video. Also, how do you use those locking pliers? I tried to use them but they could hold the bolt tight enough.

[@zayneali3148]

Next time get under the car and with a big hammer .. hammer the crap outve the rim from the back side. Being cautious of not actually bending the rims edges. As well as being cautious to not move the car to much to where it falls on you. Safety first.

[@zayneali3148]

With Rust it's easier to just cut it off at the point you described. You're going to be replacing it in its entirety so cutting it off when theres a lot of rust is the way to go. You can spray PB blaster on it, get it to turn a bit, spray more. Wire brush. Tighten it slightly back down. Spray more. Wire brush. Loosen and repeat until it is off completely. Patience is key if you go that route. With those needle nose pliers you gotta make sure you're actually grabbing on to the other ends metal portion, you can feel it latch on. If it doesnt latch on too tight remove the plier then close the gap a little more and then try latching on once more. When latching it may require A LOT of force to actually get the pliers to latch. In all honesty practice makes perfect. Sway bar links are the easiest parts of the suspension components in most cars. Rust is a terrible thing. Good luck in your future endeavors.

[@S0raJr]

Does the way bar come stock with the civic? Also, is it only located in the rear?

[@ItsRandomStan]

not on the side of the nuts screw, but the other side is a size 14

[@catsooey]

My Honda place charged me $340 to replace these on my 2011 Honda Civic. Is this a fair price or did I get hosed?

[@kainestefaniak2751]

Did they supply parts?

[@normherritt7859]

How often does a Honda 2006 with only 38000 Ks have to have all 4 of its links replaced

[@babyganga8786]

Not suppose to. Mine has 265000km and i just changed the front 2 yesterday

[@erikl3546]

Please read 1 Fish 2 Fish Red Fish Blue Fish. 😴🙃

[@ntstkg37x62]

Thats funny. You overpaid for non oem links when the Honda ones are only a buck more. Plus new nuts from honda are only 50 cents each. Remember to replace all 4 links as well as the sway bar bushings as well.