How to Replace Brass Through Hulls - Classic Boston Whaler Montauk Part 3

In this video I I show how to replace the trough hulls in the transom of the Classic Boston Whaler Montauk I am restoring. These methods should work on any fiberglass hull or transom.
I go through how to remove the old brass drain tube, how to accurately measure the replacement, different ways of cutting and deburring the brass, getting an effective seal with an O-ring and sealant and how to flare the tube into the fiberglass.
As a bonus, I demonstrate a technique that you can use to flare the drain tube so that it matches the angle of your boat transom.
Affiliate Links to Materials I used in this Video:
Loctite Marine Sealant: amzn.to/3slDENe
O-Rings: amzn.to/3z4vnAO
Flaring Tool: amzn.to/3eU6nFw
Benzomatic Trigger Torch: amzn.to/3FbXvpL
I did not use these longer pre-flared Tubes in various lengthe in this video but they would have made the job a fair bit easier and quicker.
3" Pre Flared Brass Tube: amzn.to/3VPKW9o
6" Pre Flared Brass Tube: amzn.to/3SmpkON
14" Pre Flared Brass Tube: amzn.to/3TpVM4r
Please visit out Amazon Storefront where you'll find many of the tools and materials we use in our videos.
www.amazon.com/shop/josesextr...
00:00 Introduction
00:54 Removing the Old Through Hulls
02:50 Cleaning the Holes on the Transom
03:42 Brass Tube, Dimensions and Measuring
07:31 Three Ways to cut Brass Tubing
11:21 Annealing the Brass
12:12 Flaring The Ends
13:39 Sealant I used
14:05 Adding the O-Ring and Sealant
15:30 Using the Flaring Tool
16:23 Installing and Flaring the Long Sump Drain
17:02 Bracing the Inside Sump Drain Tube
17:41 Flaring an angles End with a Hitch Ball
19:28 The Final Results
#brass
#ThroughHull
#boat

[@warpig1223]

Seeing this video come up tonight was a blessing! I have a 1962 17ft Boston Whaler which I picked up after watching your restoration on your 13ft. I just had my second kid so I have no time to work on the boat with two kids under 2 lol but this was one of the major things I could not find a proper video on and I just want to thank you as your videos have been a guide for me to hopefully one day have the boat fixed up for the kids. Thank you!!

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

That's great to hear. I really enjoy comments like these, makes all the trouble seem worthwhile.

[@warpig1223]

@@ExtremeDIYGuy it doesn't go unappreciated that's for sure! Looking forward to the future videos on the Montauk!

[@robbymacoutdoors.6250]

Great video I’m restoring a 17 Montauk and I see that their is more than one way to do that part. The dowel was such a great way to do that!! I was able to get my splash well and bilge drain out no problem. Thanks for showing a great way to reinstall them. Love the channel. You do excellent work.

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

Thanks 👍 Glad you enjoy it!

[@Adam12Designs]

Nicely done. Love the creativity with the ball hitch.

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@chasingwaves11]

nice you picked up another whaler !! awesome Joe !

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

Gotta keep with the Whalers!

[@johncuddemi1311]

you saved my life bro

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

Your welcome!

[@GeorgieCt]

Do I need to buy a longer bolt for the tool on the lower tube? They all seem to be short or is flaring one piece of brass tube so I could slide another into it an option Like a plumbing fitting..?

[@jamesallbright3170]

I haven’t seen it done with rubber orings, is that something you came up with or a technique published somewhere? And are you concerned of the rubber rotting out and leaving you with a gap between the brass flare and the hull?

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

This is a techniques that is discussed ion either continuous wave or Whaler central ( I forgot which), EDPM should last a long time, viton even longer. Will probably outlivbe me lol

[@nicholasgold2577]

Would using PVC pipe work, instead of brass pipe?

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

It should but curving the ends out for a tight fit might present a challenge

[@alexnutcasio936]

Good stuff, thanks for sharing. Love the detail. Is there a reason why you can’t use good quality stainless (AISI 316) tube in place of brass?

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

I haven't tries it but I suspect that flaring stainless may be a bit more of a challenge. I know they sell slip in pre-flared ss tubes that have two sides, one slips into the other. But the ones I have seen are too short for the bilge. I may have to give flaring stainless a try to see what happens!

[@alexnutcasio936]

@@ExtremeDIYGuy I only ask because bronze and brass both degrade over time ( gets pink and/or green and you know it’s leeching) and thru-hull fittings on high end boats typically use flared 316 stainless.

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

I agree, Stainless would last much longer than brass tubing!

[@planbeeapiaries]

Awesome!

[@stormchasernwt]

Thanks for the video. Would you use the same method for the anchor well drain?

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

Yes, absolutely!

[@bobbleja2244]

To anil that brass don't you have to let it cool slowly I believe throwing it in water just tempered it

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

Thanks for the info!

[@PyrateRumRunner]

How did you flare the inside portion of the long tube?

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

I pre-flared it on the work bench with the flaring tool and a brass hammer

[@joveylndicdican1763]

Do you need the brass tube? My fiberglass supplies said to just drill the hole and then just put resin around the cut. As the bottom of the transom is just fiberglass.

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

For the classic Montauk you do, there's two inches of wood and the rest is foam. The inside of where the brass tube ends is the bilge area where any water that gets in the boat collects.