How to replace motorcycle coolant

[@willsrestorations]

I have been restoring motorcycles for over 32 years and that is the most professional do-it-yourself video I have ever seen on KZbin. Everything you said was exactly right and the exact way it should be done. I would like to personally thank you for showing the public a perfect do-it-yourself video.

[@spelunkerd]

Gee, what a kind remark, thank you so much. Really, you made my day.

[@HenryBedford1]

THANK YOU! I have a 93 Vulcan 800 that has taken me across the US, through Canada to Alaska and back and still going. Your videos have been lifesavers on the workings of my Kawasaki. I’ve sometimes viewed them literally on the side of the road while doing a repair. You are the only Vulcan 800 KZbin. They are excellent! Thanks again.

[@Chaos3dPrintWorx]

You asked how the fluid gets back into the system from reservoir, well when engine cools the pressure turns to vacuum and pulls it back into engine which I'm sure you already knew that and you were just quizzing us. Thanks for you videos makes working on my sons bike a breeze by knowing what to do. And i would have never even thought about much less know how to clean the screen! Thanks again

[@spelunkerd]

+Michael Davidson Exactly right, thanks for watching! I did a video where I took apart a radiator cap, showing the two opposing springs that are designed to take advantage of that swing in pressure, automatically purging the system of air yet providing a safe release. The guys who invented the system were brilliant.

[@Chaos3dPrintWorx]

+spelunkerd Thanks and yes they were!

[@TheKev1951]

just bought 96 VN800 classic, no owners/service manual. and after 33kms run, no fan movement. so Y-Tube help me out. very helpful and clearly defined process. thanks. kev.

[@spelunkerd]

+kevin Doyle Thanks for the feedback. For the benefit of other readers, I'll mention that the fan doesn't come on until the coolant is at operating temp. On my bike up here in Canada, it isn't unusual to have no fan action for the first 20 minutes, or even longer. Usually it would come on after 33 km but in the winter, maybe not. Of course you can isolate and then hotwire the fan input to see if the fan works when fed with power. I got a paper manual from Kawasaki but it's not a great manual, fairly minimal.

[@spelunkerd]

One thing I forgot to mention is that while burping and refilling fluid with cap off, it is worthwhile to sit on the bike and gently rock it to left and right to allow air pockets to clear. When the bike is on a side stand like it is, there is a high air pocket that won't clear until the bike is tilted side to side.

[@jeremysimmons7355]

This video saved my butt. Had my "96 Vulcan 800 serviced and some clutch work done. Tech forgot to refill coolant. Had the wife out on our anniversary and got a temp light about 50 miles from the house. Stopped at a gas station and watched this vid. Lucky it was cold out and I was two blocks from an Auto Zone. Bought an 8mm wrench, coolant, and funnels. We went to lunch and let the bike cool, then filled it up and we were back on our way. Saved me a tow and an angry wife. Thanks!

[@spelunkerd]

Great, thanks for the followup story. Be sure to check levels again in a few days, since trapped air can clear slowly and need a refill. Also if the reservoir isn't refilling you want to check to be sure there are no cracks in the hose or rad cap that could interfere with automatic refilling.

[@alangrimoldi9496]

These videos are some of the most genuine and helpful ones I've come across for my amateur attack on repairing my vulcan. Thank you.

[@spelunkerd]

What a kind remark, thank you.

[@a.b1266]

Thanks for posting. Just picked up a used 2006 Vulcan 900, and going through the process of fluid changes. This is a good help.

[@elterrible3067]

Excellent video! Thanks I have a 1995 Vulcan 800 and it’s so reliable and still looks like new , I really like to maintain it .

[@v3ltrucci]

just bought an 96' vn800 classic, thank you for your video, it's helpful as it's my first watercooled motorcycle.

[@tinachadwick4031]

Your video is exactly what I needed. Was about to remove tank, so thank you.BUT I still have to remove tank. There wasn't an opening on 2004 vulcan 2000.

[@mikereese657]

1600 classic, here about to do this or am i gonna have your problem

[@HippieBeerReviews]

I've just recently bought my first big bike, a vn800 classic and was lost as how to check the coolant level. I'll be doing it tomorrow thanks to this video. Thanks!

[@spelunkerd]

It's a great bike, thanks for watching.

[@NewPiji]

Nicely done. I just did mine on a Vulcan 900 following your instructions. Slightly different locations here and there but was easily able to figure out where everything was. Also noticed some dried up residue around the weephole, guess I'll have to keep working on it but just glad to see the problem before it becomes a serious issue. Tanks spelunkerd!

[@Sebastian-nk3qc]

where is the drain plug on the vn 900?

[@spelunkerd]

Great answer. In the linked video at the bottom description, I take apart a rad cap and show the two seals and two springs that allow intermittent two-way traffic, both ways, just using thermodynamic forces that are already there. The guys who invented the rad cap, many decades ago, were geniuses.

[@kimberlyannhughes7855]

Hello ☺️ I didn't go thru all the comments, but I have a couple questions. Keep in mind, I'm a newbie. So, my bike has been sitting for a couple weeks... (I haven't even ridden it yet, a friend has a few times as he's been housing it for me and doing some work on it) . Out of curiosity I was tinkering around. When removing the radiator cap, that area, the neck?, was bone dry. Normal?? Also the larger hose coming into the neck has corrosion all around where it connects... Normal?? I couldn't judge the coolant level, as I can't see thru the dirty hose. It also kinda looked like there was a ring of coolant around the weep hole. I have a 97 800 Classic.... Roughly how much coolant does yours hold? When I go to drain it, I am curious if I can tell immediately if it's low... Thank you for your time and I look forward to hearing your feedback. ☺️

[@spelunkerd]

@@kimberlyannhughes7855 The level can be down a little but normal would be completely full, and it should not be rusty inside. Check out the rubber seals in the rad cap, if there are any cracks at all, replace the cap. Pry that small valve on the bottom open with your fingernail, make sure its not stuck down or frozen. Make sure the tubing leading to the coolant reservoir is free of pinhole leaks. Fill the rad right up to the top with coolant or distilled water. If not sure about the weep hole, clean it off well with brake clean, wipe it dry, then reexamine after a drive cycle to be sure it is not presently leaking. If it is, take it to a shop.

[@kimberlyannhughes7855]

@@spelunkerd Okay, I'll follow through with that and see where I'm at then. THANK YOU!! ✨

[@kimberlyannhughes7855]

@@spelunkerd what were your thoughts on the corrosion at the connection point of the radiator neck and the large incoming hose from the radiator? (By corrosion I mean it's like a dry fluffy foam like substance protruding out and around the connecting point) ☺️

[@spelunkerd]

@@kimberlyannhughes7855 If a hose has been leaking slowly, the water evaporates to leave a white powder, often with a hint of the underlying color of the coolant. So, I'd clean the area carefully, inspect the hose, and replace that segment or maybe cut off a bit of the end so you have a fresh connection. You may want to replace the hose clamp as well.

[@spelunkerd]

You're welcome. Learning auto repair is a process, and there are often bumps in the road as you gain experience. I love doing it, but as shown in the videos there are risks that you need to accept if you do your own work. Try not to get all your knowledge from one source, so that your education is as complete as possible. Good luck!

[@Meyoyo777]

Thanks body for the information, i didnt know anything about oil change and coolant change after i watch ur videos,i just bought my 1st bike like 2 months ago,and i had no idea if i was running out of coolant oil or what, i was gonna take it to a shop for them to do it,but is too expensive, but with ur videos iam gonna save some money,i need to do it like now,before it breaks down,my bike is 99 kawasaki vulcan classic.thanks a lot.

[@thewalmsleys]

Thank you for your time, video, and help. People like you help so many of us. Planning on fallowing your instructions for my 2007 1600 Classic. Hope they are still similar. Again. Very much appreciate your work and video help.

[@danieljimenez3585]

Thank u so much. I just begin to replacing the coolant on my Vulcan 2005 in a wrong wrong way. But with your video now I go the right way.

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks for the feedback, I hope it goes well for you.

[@williamrob4749]

Awesome, Informative video. I recently purchase a 04 1500 Classic and am going through and making sure all the maintenance is up to date and taken care of. Great job and thank you.

[@spelunkerd]

Thank you. See if you can find a dealers repair manual for your exact model. I get one for every vehicle I own.

[@TNBlackTieGuy]

Good job and Thank You! I love receiving competent concise instructions like yours that teach me what i need to know without annoying amateur showmanship. Bravo!

[@spelunkerd]

I'm glad you liked it, and thank you back for the reply.

[@brianeastwood4294]

I just got a 2006 Vuclan and the videos you showed got me started with changing my own fluids...thank you for being so detailed.

[@spelunkerd]

Great bike, you'll be glad you bought it. Thanks for stopping by!

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad you liked it.

[@jimevans3163]

I really like your videos. You show me all that needs to be done. I'm not afraid to do the work, but I normally don't know where to start. Thanks for your time showing us what we need to do.

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks, Terry. A quick task without much chance of getting dirty, it wasn't worth changing. It's surprising how much engineering is borrowed from other systems.

[@501sabrina]

Nice clear instructions, I just did an oil and filter change after watching your video on my 1998 Vulcan VN800 Classic , it seems quite easy to replace the coolant as well. Thank's for sharing anyway::::

[@judgegarry]

Great video, very well edited. I don't know if you guys mentioned it, but antifreeze attracts critters because it's sweet, but it's also very toxic to them...

[@psycho0002]

i just purchased a VN 800 , your video's are terrific , thanks Rick

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks, man, I'm glad you find them helpful. It's a great bike, I've had very little go wrong with it over 21 years.

[@Gothtecdotcom]

Well I hope this helps with my 2015 model... As the expantion tank hose split and was wondering how to get fluid up the hose..

[@spelunkerd]

You got it. Like a straw, even a tiny pinhole is enough to break the suction and prevent automatic burping. You can assess how full it is by opening the top radiator cap, and if you fill from there you'll get a head start on completely filling it. Then sit on top and rock the bike from side to side to get the air pocket burped, preferably with engine running. Only thing is, never open that cap when engine is hot. Once open, it is then safe to run the engine to warm. Automatic burping takes many days to complete so you want to get it close before relying on that.

[@stevewhittemore2458]

Thank you, Just got 2000 Vulcan yesterday so now I'm trying to figure out if all my fluids are good enough to ride till my book comes in from amazon in a few days.

[@spelunkerd]

***** Great bike, you'll like it. Congratulations!

[@mikehobday1468]

Just Bought A 2002 Vulcan 800 Learning Alot Watching Your Videos , Thanks Apireciate It !

[@ashigargalo]

Hi, Thanks for the video, Very helpful, Could you please let me know where that little white bottle with a house on the front left of the rad connects, my one fell and i haven't a clue where she connects, If you could just make a little video PLEASE, Thanks very much

[@spelunkerd]

Go to my channel, send me a private message with your email address. I'll reply back.

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks for the feedback, I"m glad it helped.

[@mxdan7259]

Great video. Answered a burning question- what that hole was next to the engine coolant drain - a weep hole! Makes total sense. Just bought this 95 VN750 and was thinking that hole in the bottom of the engine was a sign of trouble. Thank you - Good Job 😀

[@spelunkerd]

Only guys who have worked on cars will recognize what that hole is for, others will wonder. What I find rewarding about learning how these systems work is the remarkable overlap from one system to another. Cooling systems in particular are both fascinating and a common point of failure in all vehicles. Thank you for the feedback. I wish I could do more motorcycle repairs, but this Vulcan has been so reliable through the years that I haven't had anything serious go wrong.

[@adicksonful]

Have the same bike 2000 thanks for the video been wanting to change mine for some time now.

[@vilfranc2026]

great video, very helpful any idea why my vn88 1994 would be shooting way to much white smoke from exhaust and backfiring? thanks

[@spelunkerd]

+vilfranc2026 White smoke is classically caused by coolant contaminating the fuel causing excessive water vapor in exhaust. The thing I would worry about is the chance of a head gasket leak, which is one of the more common causes. If coolant is getting into fuel, then often combustion products can be found in the air inside the cooling system, and there is a gas tester you can use to easily prove that. You carefully put the tester onto the open rad cap and if there are combustion products in coolant then the liquid tester turns yellow. Don't burn yourself. Let's hope it's something more innocent, like condensation of water in fuel from winter storage.

[@MASKIDANA]

Thanks for sharing . I have a mean streak 2003 , after owning it for bout 2 months now , the coolant is leaking out from a hose that comes out of the motor

[@spelunkerd]

First step if you can do it is to get hold of the dealers repair manual. Sometimes you can find pdf copies online, or maybe in disc form on ebay. Don't delay, good luck!

[@stuzman52]

Few comments Dave! First, very good quality of detail in your video along with some good tips all throughout. I know very little about motorcycles and would have never known about pulling the top assembly to get to the radiator cap. And now for the most important question. How in the world do you work in shorts with your bare knees on the concrete? Smiling...

[@michaelovitch]

The two first links do not work. : (

[@williamrobertson298]

Very detail and informative. Big thanks on all of your videos.

[@spelunkerd]

You're welcome, thanks for the encouraging feedback.

[@rayjenkins2754]

Well done & I will subscribe. I had my own shop for 40 yrs - still do some wk in retirement - but I'll ck out videos like yours before doing a job - helps in determining my time to charge & to become refreshed with a particular bike ( I only work on the Japanese makes ). Thanks

[@fmontero4724]

Thanks for the instructions. Please tell us, how do we know when the coolant level is low or when we need to change it completely. How much do we need to use? Thank you

[@spelunkerd]

Every bike is different, but to check level, put the bike on a level surface, engine off for at least an hour or so. Find the top of the fluid which forms a meniscus. That level should be between the high and the low marks (shown at 8:59). One caveat is that the coolant levels need to have air bubbles burped from the system, so your initial level may be inaccurate until the system can burp itself. So, check again in a few days after a few hot/cool cycles. Dealers manual will tell you details of how much coolant the system needs, but remember that's only a guideline based on the assumption the system is completely dry when you fill. You change coolant based on the bike manufacturer's specs, also in the manual. If you can't find the spec, change every few years.

[@kiltedvampire]

Very clear instructions for the coolant and oil changes. Thanks!

[@jarrettventurini]

Hello and thank you for the informative video! I was just in the garage getting ready to perform the valve clearance adjustment, and started trying to drain the coolant out so I can remove the hoses to make it easier to get the cylinder heads off. Well, when I opened up the fill cap, and then removed the drain plug, no coolant came out! There is definitely coolant in the throat of the fill port, and the level at the reservoir is right in between the high and low mark, so I'm wondering if you have any thoughts on this.

[@spelunkerd]

Jarrett Venturini You might double check to be sure you removed the correct drain bolt, since it might be different on a different model. Sometimes it may not drain if the radiator fill cap (not just the coolant reservoir cap) is not removed first, since air pressure from the atmosphere can hold fluid in place, for the same reason that you can drink a beer fast if you puncture the top of the can when it's turned upside down (grin). You should video your valve clearance adjustment -- there are only a few videos here on youtube showing how to do that. Good luck!

[@jarrettventurini]

Thanks for the response. I should have mentioned that my bike is an '01 Vulcan 800. I'm pretty sure I removed the correct bolt. It's the only other bolt to remove besides the oil plug isn't it? I did have both the reservoir cap and the radiator fill cap open and still nothing would drain. Maybe a clog somewhere? I'm going to tinker a little more today I think.

[@spelunkerd]

Yeah, maybe some debris holding it back. you could run the cold engine for a few seconds to see if water will start to flow, but I wouldn't do that for more than a few seconds - perhaps even bumping the starter motor is all that is needed.

[@jarrettventurini]

Well I took a very small screwdriver and pushed it up into the drain hole. Sure enough it started draining right away.

[@spelunkerd]

Jarrett Venturini Thanks for recording your experience here, I'm sure many will find it useful.

[@spelunkerd]

Hmm, sounds like the wrong drain plug. What exact bike do you have?

[@thepurgatorykids]

This was tremendously helpful. Thanks very much for breaking it down so well.

[@spelunkerd]

walter ramalho Thanks, man.

[@jerrypopelka8829]

Thanks much for vid and stressing the importance of burping. Takes a little patience but is so important. Good job. Jerry

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks!

[@TheWalmsleyshome]

I remember working on my first car (Chevrolet Chevet) And learning that as the car started heating up. The liquid would start lowering. Then Id add more as it lowers. GOOD POINT. to add to the video for others that have never learned that.

[@spelunkerd]

Yeah, it's even more important for cars, where the volume of trapped air can be much larger. Of course after a few hot/cold cycles the system should eventually burp itself, but a lot of damage can be done in the first hot cycle.

[@TheWalmsleyshome]

Thanks for the reply also. So many videos I have left comments on and its like No one watches or bothers with them after uploading videos. So Thanks

[@paulbaker3144]

I’ve gotten a lot of air out of my vehicle cooling systems by squeezing the radiator hose while I’m running it to burp it. Be very careful. It may be hot. Keep long hair, loose clothing, and hands away from fan and belt. I had a van with a rear heater. They can be a bugger to get the air out and can even cause a air lock which can overheat the engine. Ask me how I know.

[@Sonorense23]

Very well explained and illustrated!! Thanks a lot for spending your time showing us this. regards J. Merino

[@ryanrox86]

I just came across this video. It is a great video! Unforunately...I accidentally sheared the drain plug :( I was being careful when tightening the bolt, but I guess it was ready to go. I was wondering if you had any advice of what to do. I've seen suggestions of using a reverse drill bit to get the remainder of the plug out. The problem is that I don't know what to do to replace it. Do you happen to know the size of the bolt I would need to replace it? Is there a gasket of sorts also? Any information would be much appreciated!

[@spelunkerd]

Ryan Rossi If the bolt is holding fluid well, you should ask yourself if you really need to remove and repair it. I would probably leave it if that's an option. You can drain coolant from bottom hoses pretty well.... This kind of problem is common, and there is an algorithm with lots of specialty tools to approach it. The easiest situation is where enough of the bolt sticks up to be able to grab it and twist out. A second option is to weld a stub onto the bolt and then twist that. It seems tricky and it involves special skills and tools, but sometimes it works great. A third option if the bolt is sheared flat is to drill a hole through the center of the bolt and then use a device called an 'easy out' to back it out. Yes, easy-outs have either left handed threads or flutes that permit you to back out, and you can buy special cobalt drill bits with left hand threads. However the name is a misnomer, they are NOT easy. I find the biggest challenge is to remain centered, and threads are usually damaged requiring a helicoil thread repair after. If there is a way to remove the whole bottom pan of your bike, it would make the work safer and easier to do on a bench without worrying about what you could harm deeper inside. Good luck!

[@phillipeasterday4376]

+Ryan Rossi first.. a bolt works because the threads put pressure on the head of the bolt to the body... so.. if no head...no pressure.. normally the bolt body...(threads) will turn easily out.. you would just need a sharp object and slowly work the bolt body out... then take that body to a local hardware store and test it against other metric bolts... I do not believe there is a special gasket on the bolt or you would have seen that when the bolt sheared...

[@_osimosi_]

Hey it's a great video. Thanks so much. I have a question. I have a coolant leak from where the thin hose (connected to the filler cap) connects to the bottom reservoir. The hose seems okay but what do you think it causes the leak? I remove the hose from the reservoir nipple and the coolant shoots upwards from the nipple where the hose fits. 🤷‍♂️

[@spelunkerd]

If the fluid inside is under pressure, I'd check the integrity of the radiator cap, looking carefully at the seals and both valves. I wouldn't hesitate to replace both the radiator cap and the hose if there is any evidence either is bad. I did a video on how those caps work, they have two one way valves that point in opposite directions. Pressure shouldn't be able to force its way through the cap to the filler hose unless radiator pressure is too high or if the seal for the cap is cracked. Look carefully at the hose, even a pinhole leak can mess up the siphon mechanism for refilling, just like a tiny hole in a straw will not allow you to use a straw to drink water. When refitting the hose clamps, put them on in exactly the same position since if they are slightly offset the hose may leak. Also route the hose very carefully, you don't want to kink the hose. Good luck!

[@Antoniostubeio]

Thankyou very helpful video iv just bought kawasaki el 250 1991 not sure about cooling system so will use what you showed us on that...

[@spelunkerd]

Most of these are similar but there will be a few differences that you may see in a different model. Try to get your hands on a dealers repair manual for more specific advice pertinent to your bike. Good luck!

[@motosheyer]

muy bien, videos como estos ayudan mucho , saludos

[@spelunkerd]

muchas gracias!

[@nolimitssjca]

Thanks for demystifying the cooling system. I would like to see taking to speedo off though.

[@spelunkerd]

Oh, you mean how to undo the speedo cable. It just spins off with your fingers, right hand threads. Thanks for watching!

[@spelunkerd]

Oh, by the way, I did a separate vid of how to replace a broken speedo cable, if you are interested.

[@scratchcoderig]

My drain bolt is sheered off completely or it is a non removable plug on my 1998 1500 classic and Clymer wants me to drain it from the rad and the drain plugs on each cylinder. Did you pull the plug from underneath and add a bolt or did it come stock? It looks so much easier on your video.

[@spelunkerd]

The drain bolt came stock. I am the original owner, and it's a vehicle that hasn't spent a lot of time outside of the garage so corrosion isn't too bad. Bad luck about the sheared drain bolt! If the sheared drain bolt isn't leaking you could live with it, draining as needed from the radiator and perhaps replacing fluid a little more often, recognizing that you aren't completely replacing old fluid each time. If you really need to replace that bolt you might have to drill it out or weld a nut on the end of the bolt stub, and then remove and replace the broken stud with a helicoil or timesert. However there are risks to any procedure and I would try to avoid doing that if you can. You might want to verify that the bolt you've identified is in fact the correct drain bolt for your bike, since it may be easy to get that one wrong. I use the original factory service manual for my bike, but those are expensive and generic copies like Alldata and Mitchell don't do manuals for bikes. Ebay might be a source for a copied disc version of the original factory service manual. Good luck!

[@mcgamingone]

How often is it recommended to change your bike's coolant? I have a 2000 Vulcan 1500 with 17k miles on it. I bought it with 16k miles on it during the spring and I don't know if it has ever been changed. I've only ever owned air cooled before. Thanks in advance!

[@spelunkerd]

Cynics would say that the antifreeze properties of your coolant are well preserved, but what you don't want are the acidic breakdown products of your engine contaminating the fluid. Impurities in the coolant cause accelerated breakdown of seals and engine parts, which speeds the process up as time goes by. Coolant additives designed to prolong engine life also tend to break down at a faster rate than does ethylene glycol. In your case I would drain and change your coolant now. Your dealers manual is a good place to look up suggested change intervals, but with this being a second hand bike I would assume it's never been changed. Free recycling is available in any city, and if it's too far to drive you can usually drop the old coolant off at a local garage.

[@mcgamingone]

spelunkerd Thanks for the quick, informative reply! I am the third owner of this bike and I would guess it probably hasn't been changed. I'll do it soon. Thanks again!

[@Justacogg]

Thank you, very informative and a huge help! I will be doing this to my bike tomorrow!

[@ChlannWalsh]

really great job on this!! had to replace my clutch and this was very helpful in filling the coolant system properly!!

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks. Next time, do a video (grin). Dave

[@ChlannWalsh]

spelunkerd, I got a little of it :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/epvTZJKJjbJnirM

[@jl2674]

Awesome videos, thanks for all your advice

[@nathangarciamuro]

Cool video. I learnt a couple of things from it. I have a Vulcan S myself and I will apply the learnt tricks to mine. Thanks foe the time.

[@lukel8045]

I've got a 96vn1500 classic. Lately have been having a big problem with it over heating and don't really know where to start. The coolant is full, yet I can't hear the fan turn on other than when I turn it off it'll kick on for about 10seconds. When I idle more than a few minutes or get stuck in traffic, it'll run like garbage till it's cooled down. Just gets incredibly hot and shouldn't be getting nearly as hot, being that it's liquid cooled.

[@spelunkerd]

Could be a bad water pump, a problem in the fan circuit, or perhaps a leaking head gasket. When you check the coolant don't just check the reservoir, check the level at the rad cap while cool, since the refilling system might have failed and that would be an easy fix. I would not use the bike until you get the problem fixed, since any of those problems could damage your engine. I would check out that fan circuit next, then maybe look for combustion gasses inside the coolant system. A laser thermometer would help to tell if the water pump is moving coolant through your rad. If all that sounds daunting, I wouldn't hesitate to get a pro to have a look, since an error here could destroy your bike. Repair of many coolant problems is often not too costly.

[@lukel8045]

I've recently taken it to a shop close to my house asking him to check/add coolant because the reservoir looked low. When I picked it up I asked where the radiator cap was that he added coolant to, and he pointed to the cap for the reservoir... I think I'll try and do it myself after watching your video again. Mine has the gas cap where yours is, my cap is hidden pretty well but once I find it I can probably guarantee it is near empty if all he did was half ass it and charge me for it.

[@spelunkerd]

Luke LaForce That's a good plan. I did a series of cooling system videos, including one describing how the radiator cap permits a cooling system to burp itself. Watch that one. Once you know how it works, it's easy to see how a small crack in the rubber under the gas cap can fail to seal, preventing formation of the cooling suction that is required for fluid to be drawn from the reservoir to the system. If it's just a badly fitting cap and if there is no secondary engine damage, you've dodged a bullet.

[@dr.snoopy9658]

I have a 1999 vulcan750 and the bike runs great but it will overheat on me going on the highway. I took it to the shop and has got installed a brand new aluminum radiator and bearings for the shaft for the pump. But since I got it back it still over heats on me but not as quick on how it used to be before

[@spelunkerd]

Don't overlook the simple things first, make sure you've burped the system, check levels at the cap and not just at the reservoir, and have a close look at the seals in your radiator cap. If there's any doubt, replace the radiator cap and probably also the thermostat. If the level at the cap is low but reservoir is full, check for kinks and pinholes in the tubing between the two. Make sure your fan kicks on when you're hot. If all those things check out OK, I'd be looking at more obscure things like the temp sensor, head gasket, etc.

[@dr.snoopy9658]

@@spelunkerd it has a brand new radiator, thermostat, hoses, gasket, and even bought new head gasket but the mechanics told me I don’t needed head gasket. But I think it’s the head gaskets. The coolant will come back to the reservoir tank boiling

[@spelunkerd]

@@dr.snoopy9658 There is an inexpensive kit that is designed to detect exhaust gasses in coolant. Search "combustion leak test kit", or "Lisle 75500". You remove the radiator cap, apply the tester to the opening, run the vehicle and look to see a color change in the blue liquid of the test kit. If it changes color from blue to yellow, you've got exhaust gas in coolant, which is almost always from a head gasket leak.

[@mikemeixner1504]

I have a 96 and I think I overfilled the reserve tank because it's coming out of the small bleeder hole under the cap on the reserve tank? Bought a new cap and diaphragm just in case.

[@spelunkerd]

Let's hope that is all it is. Any cause of extra pressure in the system can overload, causing fluid to reflux out that tube. As a first check, after it is cool check underneath the radiator cap. You should have fluid right to the top of the cap. If there is a pocket of air there, it suggests you may have trapped air that needs to be burped out. If you find a pocket of air under the rad cap, fill the rad directly to top it off. Look closely at the two seals of the rad cap, and if one of them is cracked or damaged then replace the rad cap. If that doesn't work, then I'd burp the system, and I'd start thinking about common causes of overheating (thermostat failure, trapped air, rarely even a head gasket leak). Hopefully it's some thing very simple. Good luck!

[@sridhar21s]

Great video, very detail oriented. I wonder where I can get those funnels and suction kits.

[@willkraemer9613]

Awesome video, very informative. I just bought a 96 vulcan 800 and the coolant seems a little sludgy, any advice? Thanks so much!

[@spelunkerd]

Sludge is bad news in a cooling system. In the old days we would run a garden hose through the system, but you can't do that any more because you need to recycle the waste fluid. If it were my system I would drain it completely and replace with distilled water, run the engine for a short while, then completely drain it again. You can buy cheap distilled water at Walmart in the grocery section, or buy deionized water from an autoparts store for a little more. If you flush with distilled water three times, most of the sludge should be gone. You can also buy coolant descalers that might do a better job than distilled water, but be sure to follow directions since you don't want to damage passageways. Descalers are mostly acid based, causing calcium deposits on the sidewalls to ionize into Ca+2, H20 and CO2. Too long and your engine wall can be damaged. If you do that, remember to flush it all out with a big volume of distilled water later. The other thing to consider is whether the previous owner put stop leak into the cooling system. That reduces leaking but also causes sludging that can't be good for the system. Hopefully there wasn't an underlying reason he might have done that.

[@michaeljenkins9796]

Are the procedures the same for Vulcan1500e,2003

[@spelunkerd]

I can't answer that except to say that the principles translate across all combustion engines. For specifics regarding your vehicle, I use the dealers service manual that is specific for my vehicle. Kawasaki sell online pdf copies, for a reasonable price when I last checked.

[@RfPrivateCollection]

greetings from Brazil friend, I'm having problems with my vn 800 1996, the water from the radiator is "disappearing" somewhere ... and when I'm walking I realize that the electro fan doesn't turn on .... and the water heats up a lot and it ends up leaking through the lid on top of the tank and I have to go back pushing home what could it be? ps: the hoses I changed all ... thx

[@spelunkerd]

Check the weep hole, at the bottom of the engine, near the oil drain bolt shown at 0.58 for crusting or wetness. Carefully look at the radiator for a wet spot, and look for weakness of your hoses. Refill the radiator with distilled water, pouring it in the cap at the top of the engine, not just at the reservoir. The next step if you can't find the leak is to use a pressure tester, which you may be able to borrow from a parts store. It fits onto the system at the point where the radiator cap goes on, you pump up the system and look for a leak. I did a video of that in a chev truck, "mystery coolant leak" in my video set, showing how that works. If you still can't find a leak I'd wonder about the chance of a head gasket leak, especially if you've got a little white smoke out the tail pipe. The electric fan is interesting, I'd be looking at the 10A fuse for the fan in the junction box, be sure it's good. Then I'd spin the blades of the fan to make sure it spins. Then I'd disconnect and hotwire the fan with 12V and ground to see if it spins with power. If it works, then I'd inspect the radiator fan switch, which is thermostatically controlled by engine heat. Perhaps the overheat cooked the radiator fan switch, or perhaps air in the system is interfering with how that switch works. Good luck!

[@spelunkerd]

It's not perfect, and one day, years ago, I almost lost a bike over the other side. But to get a good video of the level I did it again this time. Thank you for watching.

[@jimmyc3554]

Well done thank you. I have a Vulcan 800 Classic. Same procedure I'm sure. How old was your Bike when you fist changed your coolant.?

[@spelunkerd]

Jimmy Cogan A few years. When you change your oil, look closely at how the oil screen is positioned, since a few other viewers, with different bikes, have described their screen being in the other way around. (see the video on my channel of changing oil). Their remarks are in the thread for that video. My bike was the way I show it from the factory, and I am the original owner, with nobody working on it before me. The OEM manual shows it goes in the way mine did, but those remarks made me think that other (newer?) bikes may be designed differently.

[@TheOctane24]

How much coolant did you put in the recovery tank? And how much where the gas tank is? Whats the ratio

[@spelunkerd]

The reservoir holds no more than 500 cc, probably less. I don't remember the system capacity, but that should be available in the owners' manual if I didn't mention it in the video.

[@TheOctane24]

spelunkerd ok thanks

[@aypapa1]

why do you need to add coolant/water to the recovery tank? how much do you add? it is pretty clear that the whole system needs to be filled up to the top...but the recovery tank? thanks buddy

[@spelunkerd]

Excellent question! The way coolant is drawn from the recovery tank to the radiator is by passive suction, so the tube that leads from the recovery tank to the radiator needs to be below the fluid level in the recovery tank. Otherwise only air is drawn back and the radiator can't automatically refill itself when fluid level in the rad drops. It's a fascinating system. When the system heats up, air bubbles are forced backwards down that tube into the recovery tank, bubbling out of the tank to be released to the atmosphere. Then later when you shut the bike off, the residual air in the radiator contracts, causing suction to draw only fluid back up that same tube from the recovery tank. Brilliant engineering! I did a series of videos on automotive cooling systems which you might find helpful. The one on the radiator cap explains how that system works in more detail.

[@spelunkerd]

As far as how much to add, if you look closely you will see a high and low fluid level mark. Keep the fluid between the two marks, preferably close to the high mark.

[@adalbertoflores4349]

Is this procedure exclusive for that type of motorcycle or help for other types of motorcycles?

[@spelunkerd]

General principles apply to almost all bikes and cars, but specifics like the best coolant to use, which drain plug drains what, and how often to change can vary dramatically. Aluminum engine blocks require better oxidation inhibitors in the coolant, which can expire with time (though the base ethylene glycol seems to last forever). Not all coolants are compatible with each other. For details specific to your bike, try to find a copy of the dealers repair manual -- you may find a pdf or DVD that is cheaper than offered by the manufacturer. Good luck!

[@AAAA-tv6gx]

Best video and instructions ever

[@cristianosoresancco9422]

My motorcycle is 97 vn800 classic, I've broken the biggest screw but the screw that you call "weep hole" is not turned, I turned it several times with a key and it does not come out a bit. you can tell me how to remove it because on the other nothing comes out of the antifreeze. Excuse my English.

[@spelunkerd]

To drain coolant on my 95 VN800 vulcan, you unscrew the hexagonal bolt that is adjacent to the weep hole, you don't drain from the weep hole itself. I don't know what that key slot you describe does but I would try to restore it to the same position you found it in. The coolant drain bolt is exactly in the center of the frame at 1:13 into the video. If no coolant comes out after removing that bolt completely, try removing the radiator cap above. Sometimes you need to break the air lock above before coolant will flow, and flow will always be more complete if there is no vacuum above. If coolant still doesn't come out, I would wonder if your bike has been manufactured differently. Some guys have trouble with drain bolts and it is possible to partially drain coolant by removing lower hoses, but evacuation is incomplete that way so you need to flush the system with distilled water a couple of times to be sure it's well drained if you can't get the lower engine drain bolt off. Good luck!

[@jaydee8285]

Just wanted to know how do you replace the mechanical seal if the weep hole is leaking

[@spelunkerd]

I've never had to do it on a motorcycle, but I do show examples of how to do it on a boat, trucks, and cars on my channel. If water gets in there the pump bearings are usually shot so you end up needing a rebuild with seal and bearing replacement at least. Depending on the vehicle it may be more economical and reliable to replace the pump as a unit.

[@jaydee8285]

@@spelunkerd thank you for the quick response...im sure I have to do it on my bike...i have a 04 vulcan 1500..i noticed it periodically a drip or 2 on the ground the start of riding season..dont see it much but its caught my attention and I knew what it was

[@spelunkerd]

@@jaydee8285 Good catch, don't delay.

[@instrutor_johnny]

muito bom! fiz como no vídeo, deu tudo certo e ficou ótimo com minha vn800 95'. Obrigado 👍

[@spelunkerd]

Gracias! You may like the motorcycle repair playlist I made, all videos are of the bike we both own.

[@garymurray5867]

When I tried to burp my cooling system with the cap off I got a steady pencil size stream of coolant shooting straight up. Made it impossible to burp the system. What would cause that?

[@spelunkerd]

+Gary Murray Flow to the radiator increases when the thermostat is open, and I've seen traditional burping fail because of excessive flow after the rad opens. On a bike the volume of trapped air is pretty small, so you're probably OK to let burping happen normally through the radiator cap valve after a few hot/cold cycles. I'm not sure what is happening in your bike but I suppose the design may be incompatible with that technique of burping. Hopefully it's not some other cause of increased system pressure like boiling coolant or a head gasket leak. Probably not. Good luck, please stop back if anything more revealing is found.

[@spelunkerd]

+spelunkerd One other safety message for anybody who reads these threads. It's critical when burping to only remove the cap when the engine is shut down and cool, so there is no residual pressure already built up in the system. Attempts to burp an already warm system will predictably fail with a dangerous depressurizing spray of superheated, boiling water. Of course, never remove a warm cap, but even if the cap is cool the system could be under pressure if trapped air or inadequate coolant flow prevents the cap from heating up.

[@garymurray5867]

+spelunkerd I've put a few miles on her now with no overheating or loss of coolant. I don't believe it was boiling coolant as the engine was stone cold and the spurting was immediate. I thought about a head gasket but I've ridden all summer on extensive rides with no overheating, or loss of coolant or oil and the engine ran smooth. So I think I'm good to go. Thanks again for your help.

[@shawnwerley1397]

How can you tell the coolant amount in the reservoir? I see the L for low and F for full but my reservoir is completely black.

[@spelunkerd]

Look at the clear plastic tube that leads into the reservoir, you should be able to see the top of the level as a meniscus inside the tube that shifts when you move the bike. The tube and the reservoir are in continuity so you can assume the two levels are identical. If the coolant is only distilled water, it may be hard to see. I use green coolant and it is easier to see with some color. If the level is way too low or too high, it may be hard to see. If it was way too low, take the rad cap off and fill it up to the brim, inspect the cap, then fill the reservoir again and watch it closely over the coming weeks. Good question, I've got to check my level today!

[@smileyfacism]

Hey man, how's the bike holding up with the prestone coolant?

[@spelunkerd]

Fine, a classic bike now, its been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned.

[@smileyfacism]

spelunkerd excellent. I was letting mine warm up and when I came out to get going it was steaming, the coolant was all over the ground. So I'm kind of trying to see my options here on getting everything put back together as best I can. I really appreciate you getting back to me so quickly, my bike is my main vehicle, rain or shine.

[@spelunkerd]

@@smileyfacism Let's hope it was only trapped air, suddenly decompressed and released when the thermostat opened. This happened once to my truck after I swapped the water pump. After I burped the system it worked fine, but I was worried about a head gasket leak, bad pump, and other possibilities. In this case I would close the system, fill the reservoir right up, leave it to cool completely overnight to allow the cap burping mechanism to work, then try running the bike again with cap on to see if it overheats again.

[@smileyfacism]

spelunkerd forgive me but if you can, could you format that plan of action into a sort of step by step for me? Like "1. Do the first thing 2. Do the second thing" That would help tremendously because I have this amazing ability to either fix the problem perfectly, or completely grenade the machine, and I'd be loath to give this bike as scrap...

[@spelunkerd]

@@smileyfacism I'm a little worried I may be guiding you over a cliff, you need to honestly asses your own skill set and decide if you are willing to accept the risk of DIY repair. Experience gained from DIY repair is invaluable, but it comes at the price of misadventures. A pro would do this easily and come out with a confident diagnosis for less than you may imagine. The list of things I would do in order is in my remark above, but if you are having trouble following it is a red flag. You want to refill coolant both at the reservoir and at the radiator cap, so that if the refilling mechanism fails you still begin with adequate levels of coolant in the system. The most common cause of overheating is low coolant, usually from a leak somewhere like the radiator or a hose. Then trapped air in the water jacket interferes with pump action. So, first I would refill, warm the vehicle up to properly burp air from the cooling system, run the vehicle and look for a leak while carefully watching for overheating again. Then close the cap and let the engine completely cool overnight so that any trapped air is replaced with coolant. Pay attention to whether the cooling fan comes on as the engine warms up, and carefully assess whether the upper hoses warm up as the thermostat opens. If it overheats again, switch it off right away because you may kill the engine from overheating. A thermostat sticking shut will cause overheating with no warm coolant reaching the radiator.

[@Wildirishmanbiker]

Nice vid, clear concise and informative. Off to change my coolant!!

[@spelunkerd]

I'm glad it helped, good luck!

[@blahblahtotheblah]

Please help. I just drained my coolant and found a good amount of oil. I know you disscused replacing a mechanical seal can you elaborate?

[@spelunkerd]

Oh, bad news. There is a seal in the water pump, separating bearings from coolant. When that one leaks, coolant usually drains to the outside, not allowing oil into the cooling system. So, somewhere else, you've got a leak between these two systems. You might check your oil to see if your oil is similarly contaminated with coolant, making a brown milkshake-type liquid. Because the coolant forms steam, that brown goo is often found coating the inside surface of your oil filler cap. I'm going to guess the leak is at the head gasket, where those two systems are millimeters apart. Big job! I am not a motorcycle mechanic so you might get advice from a pro, even if you ultimately do the work yourself.

[@blahblahtotheblah]

Yep just drain the oil. It's not foggy but it's too thin to be normal. I know last time i took my bike in i was charged twice what a car usualy costs gor the same work. Here comes a summer with no riding. Thanks for your info theres not alot of people showing how to's on a vn 800.

[@miceline2001]

gracias es un tutorial muy practico

[@spelunkerd]

Gracias!

[@garymurray5867]

Great job of leading us through a confusing chore. What about the water pump? Do you open the water pump drain plug, and if so, do I have to remove anything to get at it? Keep those videos coming. Thanks for your efforts.

[@spelunkerd]

+Gary Murray I've not replaced the water pump on my bike, but if I do I'll roll the camera.You might start with a dealers manual, which frequently offers a step by step approach to the procedure. If you get fluid out the weep hole, it's time, but other problems are less clear because trapped air can be confusing. Yes, normally with a water pump it's wise to drain the rad fluid first, so you don't make a mess when hoses come off.

[@starkwoman]

Very clear and helpful video! Bravo and thanks!

[@spelunkerd]

+Linda Starkweather Thank you.

[@martinradtke5181]

Good video. Thanks. Suggest taking off watch - could scratch your paint.

[@albertomartinezalvarado9162]

muy buen video muchas gracias por compartirlo

[@spelunkerd]

You're welcome, thanks for the followup.

[@donwolfjr1]

Great video!!! I wonder if you're still responding to this video 9 years later!! Lol. I have a question! I've heard if you're wanting to really clean out the coolant system, that I can do a first cycle of a 50/50 mix of distilled water and white distilled vinegar...is this true?? Two reasons I'm asking...one is because my bike hasn't really been running for 8 plus years now, and the other is...I'm going from the green coolant to Engine Ice. I'm thinking I would fill it up once or maybe twice with the 50/50 mix and then I should be fine to add the new coolant!! If you or anybody else could give me their thoughts, I'd appreciate it!! Thanks!!! Don W., Ohio, USA!

[@spelunkerd]

That's a good question. I'm not familiar with Engine Ice, but a quick google search shows it is propylene glycol based rather than ethylene glycol. I've used propylene glycol for freeze protection in marine toilets where envionmental issues arise but I have no experience with it in automotive engines. Here in Canada we need better cold weather performance, which I believe is why ethylene glycol is more popular here. The two are compatible. The main difference between automotive coolants is in their antioxidant additives used to slow corrosion. The old green coolant had very few antioxidants so it lasted longer and it was broadly compatible with most. I don't anticipate major problems with a drain and flush regardless of what new coolant you use. Don't use tap water for dilution, it has too many impurities that can calcify out. Instead buy premixed or use distilled water or deionized water. The most popular new coolants contain OAT antioxidants, and many of the new coolants are compatible with aluminum. Older systems used amines and phosphates which weren't as good in new aluminum engines. If you want to do a flush with a weak acid, it is likely OK but unless you've got major calcium deposits I don't think it is necessary. The usual strategy is to pick a coolant and try to stick with it. I still use ethylene glycol in my bike.

[@donwolfjr1]

@@spelunkerd I didn't expect you to respond at all let alone so quickly, lol...thank you!! And thank you for your input here!! I will always only use distilled water!!! I'm going to do some research on the engine Ice and the green coolants!! The Engine Ice is extremely popular here though, and they say it's good for all types of bikes but...I'm going to double check!! Thank you again for getting back to me!!! Don

[@ray847]

Very clear videos you make, with good explanation! Could you also do a carburator cleaning / revising video 😁

[@JoseGutierrez-rr7ej]

Just bought a motorcycle recently when hot it seems to leak coolant through the recovery tank what could that mean or what should I do?

[@spelunkerd]

Some engines will bubble a small amount of air into the recovery tank normally, but when that happens you don't usually notice. A common cause for more dramatic bubbling is trapped air in the system that expands out when hot. Trapped air is certainly a possibility, but you have to ask yourself why it is there. It might be as simple as recent work on the system, but if it happens you need to look for a leak somewhere in the system. There are five possibilities I can think of you should look for. First, make sure the seals on your rad cap are in good shape, and make sure there are no leaks or cracks in the tubing leading to the recovery tank. If you have any doubt about the rad cap, replace it, they are cheap. Those tubes work like a suction straw when the engine is off, meaning that even a pinhole leak could be enough to interfere with the automatic burping function. You can also uncover coolant leaks by pressure testing the system -- you might be able to borrow a pressure testing kit from an autoparts store. Even a pinhole in the radiator might be enough to allow air in and then cause an overheat. To properly evaluate coolant flow I would remove the rad cap when engine is cold then fill the radiator to the top, then run the engine a little to burp air like I did in the video. While you are at it, try to get a feel for the second and third possibilities, whether your water pump is moving coolant and whether your thermostat opens when hot. After the engine heats up and the thermostat opens, you should see movement of coolant. Also, after warmup, the hose coming out the bottom of the rad should feel warm, suggesting flow. A bad water pump can certainly present as an overheat. The fourth possibility is a head gasket leak, which presents in a similar way. You can borrow or buy testers that look for exhaust gas in the coolant reservoir. Let's hope it's not that. Finally, if your bike has a fan, make sure it comes on when coolant is hot. A bad fan rounds out the list. Whatever you do, get it investigated ASAP. Even one overheat may be enough to permanently damage your engine, so you don't want to delay. Good luck!

[@christopherbengston3480]

Any special or specific tools need?

[@spelunkerd]

No, just what I showed being used. To add fluid to the reservoir you may want a funnel with a long neck.

[@vincentdavidson755]

I was thinking about buying a 900 kaw valcum but after seeing all these videos of clutch repeat,coolent replace, and other things to keep track of I think I will just buy a harley I change my Clutch plates once ,belt once, rest just oil change and plugs on my 1999 1200 Harley Sportster with 150,000 mi. O I did replace the clutch cable twice and 6 or 8 tires brake pads twice roters once the bike is air cooled only

[@spelunkerd]

Any vehicle requires maintenance, and coolant replacement is a standard procedure in all fluid cooled engines. As you say, the old Harley design being air cooled avoids that, but isn't so great in stop and go traffic in hot weather. Over 26 years, my bike has required surprisingly little maintenance, much less than most others. It sounds like your experience is similar, probably testament to good maintenance and winter storage methods.

[@vincentdavidson755]

@@spelunkerd yes and another thing I do is run higher air pressure in tires not to much higher tho unless I think I may run into ran and shell gas seems to be better made a mistake once by spraying wd40 in my key hole should have left it dry it rounded the inside and my key would not work so I took out the wires and hooked it to a talgo switch and attach it to my handle bars with rubber tape and I was in the mountains camping it work good later on I went and got a inection switch and put it in little things can make a big defference on a bike very tough bike twice barred in snow and ice rain when it got blown over by 60 mph winds I dug it out of the snow the next day after camping and it started right up the only other bikes I have good luck with was a 1000 kawaski and a 440 kawaski ltd I ran hard for meny years and nothing never broke down and I bought them used

[@vincentdavidson755]

@@spelunkerd I know gas itself gets old and does not last that long in storage

[@michaelsteinrok3002]

Does this work for the 1600's? I have a 2003 1600 Classic.

[@spelunkerd]

Once you've done a few of these you realize there are more similarities than differences. However the drain bolt might be in a different place. Whenever I buy a vehicle I get a copy of the dealers repair manual, so I would start there. For regular cars I go to Alldata for a much less expensive option, though I don't think Alldata cover motorcycles. If you can't find an electronic copy or a copy off Ebay, the dealer repair manual is available from Kawasaki -- mine was fairly inexpensive, though not as detailed as I would have liked.

[@michaelsteinrok3002]

Thank you. It is something I have been putting off

[@anonimoboy]

Thx for this video

[@jimanness4586]

Excellent video sir. Thanks. I’m hoping that it is similar with my 1500 .

[@spelunkerd]

There are more similarities than differences in most of these. You should try to get your hands on a dealer service manual for your bike, it is a worthwhile lifetime investment that will pay you back for years to come. Ebay often has inexpensive pdf copies, if you can't find a free one somewhere.

[@vilfranc2026]

thank you so much for the quick respond, i will do the test that you recommended thanks again you are awesome

[@davidelle6130]

You are so underrated!! The best!!! What happens if I undo the drain plug and nothing comes out... Plus when I add coolant it doesn't really burp/go into the system.. I am assuming something is clogged. do you have any suggestions where to start with this??

[@spelunkerd]

The critical issue is oil. If level is good, and oil is warm, it should definitely come out. I would get a copy of your dealers repair manual to be sure you have the correct plug. Cool oil can sludge, it may be better warm, if so I would do a few back to back oil changes to flush it out.

[@spelunkerd]

Regarding coolant, the system has to go through a few warm/cool cycles to completely burp. If it’s not overheating it is probably OK.

[@bluemeanee57]

Thank you. Really straight forward.

[@juanmonroy8672]

Thanks for the very well explain video. It was very helpful

[@mitchshedd]

Nice video i guess i have a problem. I removed the drain plug on my 05 vulcan 800 nothing comes out.I stuck a little screw driver up in there thinking i was stopped up. Like black grease junk in there. I took the bottom hose off to drain it replaced fluids and did it like you did. should i be worried? Bike runs like 210 on my meter fan kicks on and off . The no drainage and the gunk on the screw driver has me worried I also tryed blowing the air in at the cap still no drain is just me or anybody seen this problem?

[@spelunkerd]

First thing I would do is find a dealer repair manual and see if your 05 uses that exact bolt -- my demo is a 95 and things may be very different. Hopefully you were just working on the wrong bolt.

[@mitchshedd]

spelunkerd it the same 8 mil bolt on mine but ya same for sure .

[@5TRYD4]

spelunkerd spelunkerd hey plz help me out was riding my 93 vn750 when white smoke started pouring out of left side of the radiator and then the engine cut off, once the smoke stopped I started it back up and the same thing happened and now it won't start at all , neutral light doesn't even come on nothing is working!! Any info will be awesome.

[@Pasdee]

Thank you so much!