That happened to me yesterday at Venice. After 30-40 minutes, I just gave up. After watching your video I don’t feel so bad. Thanks Brad.
@ripsbongs7 ай бұрын
Happened to me today at the not-a-spot right next to the spot. Like 20-30 minutes of relentless paddle and never got out back. Gave up and went to the crowded spot. Got out there in less than 5 minutes only to snag a close out 😂 fuck surfing
@danielroberts28887 ай бұрын
At…Venice ‽ ‽ ‽
@coloradoriversurfer7 ай бұрын
Venice NEEDS an artificial reef, or three.
@matthewzarate88517 ай бұрын
Champ
@stevecarey20307 ай бұрын
I grew up surfing HB and Newport. Then I moved to Ocean Beach in San Francisco. That is a four mile long beach break that has lots of clean double overhead days throughout the fall, winter and early spring. It's a 200 yard paddle out. A hell of a workout but it's doable. But then there are the clean triple overhead+ days which we get several of those every winter too. Those are 300 yard paddles. On those days there are only a handful of guys out in the water. The paddle out generally takes about half an hour of non stop paddling, duck diving, having your board ripped out of your hands, washing machined, and dragged back 50 yards toward shore, popping up and regaining ground hoping one of those beasts doesn't suddenly start to loom on the horizon. You only get one or two waves an hour cuz the peaks shift all over the place, and when you do catch one you don't want to ride them in too far or you'll get caught inside and take another 20-30 minutes to get back in the lineup. After the session you are completely wiped out but feel great.
@fergferguson73707 ай бұрын
Yep …try it with a long board
@surferduck4207 ай бұрын
Pretty much summed that up🤙🌊🦆💯
@dontbugme73627 ай бұрын
OB is notorious for it's paddleout. Only the fittest survive.
@jamespardue30557 ай бұрын
Yes, I too moved up there in the 90's after growing up in HB and NB. Surfing OB is almost a different sport. I stuck mostly just south of there around Linda Mar, and Montara, and Santa Cruz.
@danielroberts28887 ай бұрын
Yes. This. Beach is challenging for sure.
@odelld90047 ай бұрын
We used to jump off Manhattan pier when it was too big to padle out. Never felt so alive! Thanks for bringing back those memories 😃
@PaulK3657 ай бұрын
I've jumped off the Venice Pier, but you have to be quick to sneak past the life guards... Then there was (maybe still is?) jumping off the the Little Rincon pier... We would casually wait for a truck to exit and run up the pier and jump. Some guys would throw their board and then jump, I would hold my board on the way down and let go before impact... I've seen a gust of wind take a free falling board into the pilings causing major dings.
@PlaySA7 ай бұрын
Trust me man, I know! Growing up right next to a beach break that catches tons of swell, THERE IS NO CHANNEL. Ever. There are some slightly better spots but that's it, and you need to accept the fact that there's at least thirty straight minutes of paddling out ahead of you, and that's assuming you're able to get out at all. Occasionally I had to just give up.
@vonroretz33077 ай бұрын
Where ?
@LizardMan4207 ай бұрын
Rarely see good footage of Hammerland these days ! Nice work Brad 👍
@stewtube_VO7 ай бұрын
My lungs are aching just WATCHING this! Great vid, Brad! As usual.
@Shobo117 ай бұрын
my arms are noodles just watching this. one of the more entertaining surf videos I've seen in awhile, and very relatable. sometimes I swear you either get lucky on attempt #1 and get out in 2 minutes with plenty of energy or it takes you 15 minutes of back to back waves on the head. then you just wait around and rest until you can even consider paddling for a wave. nice vid 👍
@tuskedbeast7 ай бұрын
Excellent video. I like how you made a story, and the more of your narration, the better. I live at a recently blown-open beachbreak, and you're showing the part that all the exposure glosses over. But those that try, learn! 👹
@vickryan7 ай бұрын
The opening 5 seconds is sick. But that's not why i write this comment today. I like to give moral support and help support people. Here's my comment. I can't paddle out when it's huge either! Hope that helps. You can feel better about yourself. -- it's amazing. Some guys look at a huge day, and they decide to paddle out. Not only that is brave, but then they actually make it out there! That's when they really blow my mind. They actually can surf it. I'm usually extremely elated, when (if) I make it out there, not washed immediately back to the beach. ⛱️ 🏖️
@T8minifreak7 ай бұрын
I love to see this. 50% of surfing is the paddle out. I like to see how others make it out in big surf. You should keep making these vids.
@dropouttuneinturnon7 ай бұрын
Mr. Jacobson deserves respect by showing people who may not surf how risky & critical a paddle-out can be. I have had to explain to folks who have never surfed that being outside in big surf, followed by a controlled takeoff, is much more secure & safe than dodging double-to-triple overhead waves on the way out. I have had some terrifying paddle-outs that years later still scare me. I learned to jump into rips whenever possible, defying all the beach safety rules ever written. I also learned the hard way to not stop & look around after going vertical up the face-I learned to keep my eyes closed & keep digging until the spray dies down-only then open my eyes to see if I might survive the next set aiming right at me. One thing that Mr. Jacobson missed is the steady-constant roar. I am open to better descriptions, but I liken it to being 200’ from a 747 as it accelerates down a runway.
@woodnbikes7 ай бұрын
So you want to learn to surf? This is the reality. These guys ain't beginners, but for a beginner a 4' to 6' day can be just like this. Where I grew up on Long island, very few spots had an actual channel , but it always changed with the sand bars shifting. And during hurricane swells, many bad memories of paddling forward , but moving backwards, wave after wave after wave after wave...And just when you think you made it, getting over that last wave that was feathering but hadn't broke yet, BAM..There's 6 more behind it breaking further out than the last barrage you just went through 😳😂
@andrescurls297 ай бұрын
Very cool video Brad. I've seen some of these names on your channel before and know they are incredibly talented surfers. It makes me feel better about days where I am struggling too. These are some monster waves.
@batman50ish7 ай бұрын
Cool to see the good, bag and the ugly of paddle outs in huge surf. The other thing that surf videographers usually edit out is holddowns. Some of us are trying to count out the length of the hold downs in bigger surf, but you guys tend to edit them abrubtly to focus on the "action" of the next wave. lets see some Brad!
@Canadian95257 ай бұрын
An Awesome Video!!!! I remember them days. Thank you for Sharing and Posting. You are the Man Mr.Brad!!!!
@sneakerset7 ай бұрын
So much good surf action lately. Swami's was packed - cleanup sets. Thanks for your work, Brad !
@raymarcov33237 ай бұрын
Never give up. Paddle paddle paddle paddle paddle until you get out that was my motto. I’ve only been denied a few times hurricane waves.
@danbenoit18417 ай бұрын
Yes, paddle outs are the single most dangerous part of surfing....nothing like being completely exhausted after a 15 minute paddle and then seeing a monster set building on the horizon...
@kc721867 ай бұрын
Is there a reason they didn't walk out on the jetty? Is it fenced off?
@XC-Track-Running7 ай бұрын
Ur so right. Paddle outs are way worse than wipeouts in my opinion. Wipeouts are rough and u have to hold ur breath, but u can get slammed almost as hard on paddle outs and ur arms get tired and they last a long time. If ur arms get tired and u can’t duckdive fully below a big wave, you’ll either get aggressively pushed back by the wave or have to ditch and ditching is a mess.
@alexandermusano29367 ай бұрын
exactly, when the huge sets come in and you have to ditch it gets so sketchy
@pierrearmand65907 ай бұрын
Ocean beach San Francisco has the same issue when’s it gets big. There are rip currents that people use to get out in the line up. It’s counter intuitive but the waves don’t break in a riptide zone. Note I’ve tried that method. It doesn’t work for me cause I’m 60 and not in shape enough to make it.
@crunchers97 ай бұрын
One of your more watchable videos. The secret? Your almost constant narration! Well done!
@wisu35297 ай бұрын
Duck dive everything. Don’t bail when a 6 foot wave breaks in front of you. You CAN make it under. I usually make it out before my friends because if I duck dive when they bail, I still have my board in my hands to pull me back to the surface and keep momentum while they get dragged back.
@ltethe7 ай бұрын
I only got so many pushups in me. But I agree otherwise.
@edisondaud75527 ай бұрын
Congrats to everyone who paddle in big days without channel. You really love surf. Otherwise i hate paddle in those days cause i freak out and get desesperate. So, i dont surf in that conditions
@wisu35297 ай бұрын
@@edisondaud7552 yeah big beach breaks are tough. I usually spend more time studying it and timing the sets. I’ll look for what I think is the best paddle out spot with the best chances and then start paddling at the beginning of the set. I’ll take a few on the head but they’ll have dissipated a bit by the time they get to me. Then I’m already half way out when the next lull kicks in. It’s not a perfect science but it’s helped me get out easier on big days
@wisu35297 ай бұрын
@@ltethe oh yeah, I hear ya! Those tris and shoulders get tired!!!
@vne51957 ай бұрын
I hate it when it looks like I might make it past the last outside wave, so I paddle extra hard and work my way into deep oxygen debt, so I can make it to the outside... only to get smoked by the biggest wave of the set and held down for a 30 second thrashing while I'd really rather be breathing.
@markusbroyles18847 ай бұрын
I have often delivered this phrase after a session ~ "I only do this for the punishment" In Hawaii I learned to find a very deep place where the waves didn't break so far out. BUT if you didn't make it it would be death defying to get caught inside. People die out there. But it's worth it to stay in shape and being a surfer is a total superpower. We even look sort of like superheros in our wetsuits, But flying down the waves is absolutely a feeling of awesome mastery and wiping out is really great for the body kinda like getting slammed in martial arts or football. Being with friends out there in great surf is one of the greatest experiences ever. There are fewer people as healthy as surfers. Being alone when the surf is huge is a feeling of wildness that puts you into an incredible headspace. Leave it at that.
@AWildBard7 ай бұрын
Definitely the first step in learning to surf. Paddling out. Some places and times are easier or more difficult.
@heater45467 ай бұрын
Love this edit! You finally get out then wave selection is everything!
@whythough86617 ай бұрын
Please do more of these!
@vickryan7 ай бұрын
That very last wave, about 5:45, was great. Because he made it. Respect to all these young men, that day. Not easy, what they're doing. This is why I surf at point breaks. Even if my friends insult me for doing that. Taking the easy road. Less challenging. Less terrifying. High chance of survival.
@mikemccourt62257 ай бұрын
Most of my reef cuts from 15 years in Hawaii were from paddling back out. I recall paddling back out at Off The Wall/Aint's with a wall of whitewater coming at me - my board hit a coral head about elbow-deep into my duckdive. That was fun.
@lavapix7 ай бұрын
I once had a 72 duck dive paddle out. Started counting because it got ridiculous. Never made it out. No channel and double overhead sets. Of course, the first lull came after I gave up.
@QU1RKONE7 ай бұрын
I'm out of breathe just watching this.
@ozzielinkin7 ай бұрын
Great video
@brandonr42437 ай бұрын
Well put 👍
@boogieheads7 ай бұрын
Redondo breakwater is sick!!! you can jump off the jetty and sit way further out than the “locals” and score a massive wedge
@cjhenry417 ай бұрын
My cardiologist said my heart is so strong because of surfing, but it's not from the paddling is from all the thousand of times holding your breath ducking, well I guess also taking sets on the head. So that makes all the time as a 12 year old I ended up sitting in the lineup crying for my mother, after finally making it out in an hour when it was big.
@thegentleorchestra7 ай бұрын
Absolutely astonishing radical courageous inspiring as a friend of mine would say Surfing in San Francisco at Ocean Beach just making it out to the lineup was an accomplishment sometimes some days specially in super heavy conditions. That’s what it feels like a victory. I love all these videos you put up thank you so much.
@iblong95057 ай бұрын
Surfing is such a misleading name for the sport. Should be Paddling
@laurat11297 ай бұрын
As a swimmer, I’m much better at paddling than surfing, but not in big waves like this!
@wsfwsf14977 ай бұрын
Hammerland
@augustjeffrey47667 ай бұрын
really lives up to its name!
@rjhoover55437 ай бұрын
love the pathos in your narration!
@SeanOzz7 ай бұрын
Oh man. 4:30 gave me memories of a day I didn’t want to remember. Ha ha.
@maaags_7 ай бұрын
Excellent share!!!
@GuitarWithBrett7 ай бұрын
3:40 holy 🤯
@EnglishPoolandSnooker7 ай бұрын
Exhausting!
@adrianwoods77207 ай бұрын
Reminds me of a PSSA contest at Ocean Beach in San Francisco in 1985 when MIke Cruickshank was the only pro that could consistently make it out and ride waves and win the contest.
@adrianwoods77207 ай бұрын
He was a man amongst boys that day.@@JohnDoe-ko5xl
@fboness3687 ай бұрын
He also rescued a swimmer in trouble during the middle of his heat at Ocean Beach. Legend.
@donh35907 ай бұрын
and thats why pros have machines at contests
@HoStevie7 ай бұрын
Looks like there was some solid hold-downs that day 💀
@laurat11297 ай бұрын
Thanks for confirming that the paddleout can be time consuming and tiring some days, but I don’t know how these big wave surfers do it. Often when seeing highlights, I like to think that they’re all okay out there, but these wipeouts here look pretty brutal. *So how did Shane paddleout successfully the first time where the others didn’t? Nice barrel ride and good video, though.
@patstevens29597 ай бұрын
Great video, thanks!!!!!!
@smelltheglove20387 ай бұрын
Sucks when there is isn’t a channel in the sand bar. I always try to find the rip and let the current do the work.
@raymarcov33237 ай бұрын
I missed my calling.. to . Such a great lifestyle.
@andrewferguson80327 ай бұрын
This once happened to me, and 30 years later I still feel the shame of not making it out
@stevenhusmann38167 ай бұрын
The scariest part of surfing is not wipeouts it's being unable to get a shot at a good set wave due to the mind numbing crowds
@jasonnewman27027 ай бұрын
Paddleouts at big porto put hair on your chest
@coloradoriversurfer7 ай бұрын
It doesn't matter how you identify: you're gettin' hair on your chest.
@simontemplar17 ай бұрын
Many many times at OB in frisco I spent hour long paddle outs just to get one wave......................why? Because that one wave made my day!
@jonahhex96207 ай бұрын
I got pinned against the rocks in SoCal and that got scary. Ocean 🌊 Beach San Francisco paddle outs when it’s big are challenging
@BeachJazzMusic7 ай бұрын
Wow, where is this?
@longlife_surf7 ай бұрын
great video, great idea, alohaaaa
@gregmossed7 ай бұрын
Brutal!
@4dadream7 ай бұрын
siick!
@lostinfrance98307 ай бұрын
If you grow up surfing beach break and big beach break swells you can surf anywhere else in the world
@zazzyzulu7 ай бұрын
Shane Gallas is such a beast
@0x7FFFFFFFFFFF7 ай бұрын
1:33 'definitely the most hair-raising' while showing a clip of a bald surfer, I saw what you did there!
@shamu0utofcag36007 ай бұрын
Nothing like getting roof sized shacks in the wintertime 🤙
@shamu0utofcag36007 ай бұрын
Luckily haven’t had too many scary wipeouts 🤙
@shamu0utofcag36007 ай бұрын
Paddle out?? Now that instills a different level of fear in me 🤙
@fergferguson73707 ай бұрын
This looks like a normal day at OB …SF..
@Hrmn8tor7 ай бұрын
Swellbender
@raymarcov33237 ай бұрын
Sometimes wipeout are fun
@Alex-zs7rv7 ай бұрын
Why tf did I watch that??? Pure. Fricking. Torture.
@Damian-tx5fy7 ай бұрын
Fucking insane dudes
@therealbeans7 ай бұрын
I don’t understand why you name spots up North and blow up those spots up but don’t name your local spots. Things are changing up North of you be careful.