I'm 40% PETG! - Bender Car Part 2

[@mcwhitie]

Fry: You look different. Did you get a haircut? Bender: No! I sold my body. Professor Hubert Farnsworth: Sold your body? Oh, Bender, I've been down that road. I know it's glamorous and the parties are great, but you'll end up spending every dollar you make on jewelry and skintight pants.

[@punishedprops]

Hahaha

[@Mason-se8mt]

I'm just finishing up a project where I had to fill an absolute ton of seam lines and someone recommended to me Green Stuff World UV Putty. This stuff was an absolute godsend for fixing up those seams. It's the consistency of vaseline and cures hard in 15 seconds with a UV flashlight. I was able to smooth it out with some sculpting tools before setting it, then it was just a light sand job and I was done. If you get a chance try this stuff, it's magic!

[@punishedprops]

Oh wow, neat stuff!

[@ChadForquer]

This has to be one of my favorite builds you have done. Absolutely love Futurerama.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks so much!

[@Wico90YT]

These episode titles are great

[@punishedprops]

Thanks! =D

[@Michael-dt7sd]

I've done that type of fill in a 3d print before. I found that a good pair of flush cutters will knock down that seam pretty quickly so that there's not as much sanding needed.

[@markfergerson2145]

What timing- Big Clive just did a teardown on one of those things but thought they were only for “drawing stuff in the air” or adding decorations to existing items, like making a clear light bulb frosted. I may have to go back and add a comment about this slick trick to share the idea.

[@alexstrickland5395]

This build project has been Fun on a Bun, as Bender would say

[@EvilSpyBoy]

I have taken to using a 3D pen as a welder but I use it on the inside as reinforcement rather than gap filler. The pen I have has a metal tip that when you have a seam it sorta both melts the seam you follow while filling it in after.

[@laurana9274]

Sanago is amazing for 3D penmanship, his work has been super informative!

[@astrophysicistguy]

I've found the hot knife with the flat iron head a better alternative to those pens because you can lay down a pretty nice flat seam that doesn't take much sanding afterwards. Those pens tend to give you a seam that looks like a metal welding that then needs to be sanded down quite heavily sometimes ...

[@startide]

Yup I made an Arc trooper armor for my son and found out that the pen makes it difficult to sand because the plastic is super hard. Also if it's a small seam it's hard to fill it in with the pen. I ended up using my soldering iron as a way to melt the two parts together (small spots all along the seam line) and then sanded that down and used 3D resin that smooth away.

[@astrophysicistguy]

@@startide Bondo spot putty is still the gold standard unless you have a really big gap. Also because it's Acetone based you just mix a little with th bonds and you can now paint it on with a chip brush. Great for large area coverage of nooks where you can't get your finger

[@michaelcain2174]

Did I know the bender car existed , no … do I now want one YES 😂 . So satisfying watching those gaps disappear

[@Hylocomium]

Love the title

[@NazFXStudios]

I love using the 3d printer pen to fill seams too. Something very satisfying about it

[@snower13]

My favorite method is to just not worry about the seams! It's a perfectly valid option. I'd rather show up with an imperfect object than no object at all. Perfect can be the enemy of the good. But also, thanks for showing how!

[@punishedprops]

That is also an option. =D

[@alextopfer1068]

For something like a car you could try to design the seams in places where they look plausiable

[@DanLowery]

Loving this series! I'm looking forward to watching along.

[@punishedprops]

Thank you! We have so much fun coming up.

[@thirdeyenz]

I'm a convert to using an electric rotary foot sander which I learned about from M.M's Prop Shop. Also why not try using the hot knife to smooth down the 3D pen's output as you go to cut down on the sanding needed? Bender's looking great too by the way :D

[@philabot]

Great idea, I’m enjoying the progress.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@nirodha7028]

Can I advice to use spraycan based spray putty. Works really well to get rid of those layer lines.

[@punishedprops]

Oh heck yeah!

[@SomePoserStoleMyName]

Most baby powder is corn starch now and does not work as well as the talc baby powder did. so you have to look for the actual talc if you want pretty results

[@Velocity_AU]

With taking down the seam before using sanders, would something like a small wood worker's planer work well?

[@bradleymarks8762]

for leveling try using the hot knife to cut off the extra

[@punishedprops]

Great idea!

[@blizatrex]

I really like this technique due to it all being the same material so it all sands the same. Will Bender be printed or will he be foam?

[@BBMando69]

I use a foot sander from Amazon to sand and smooth my prints. Palm sander heats the plastic and can cause warpping.

[@punishedprops]

Great idea! You really need to be aware of how hot the sander is making your print.

[@PawPawKellum]

At the 4-minute-ish point and wondering if attaching or following with a credit card/something like a spackling knife would help to reduce clean-up later, while flowing into the seam..?..

[@punishedprops]

I like this idea.

[@ura-bedash.rantan1224]

次回も楽しみです❤

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@niels73]

Was there a possibility to break the print apart based on the 'natural' seams that a car has (hood, door panel, wheelhouse)?

[@scarcosplay]

So.... is it a fender bender?

[@Agnahim12345]

Came here to say this 😂

[@punishedprops]

Heyooooo! 😂

[@DoctorBatmanMD]

Dad jokes. We got dad jokes people!

[@HawkWorley]

When you brought out the wheel, I legit thought it was a 45rpm record.

[@punishedprops]

Oh wow I hadn’t noticed that, but now that you mention it, it’s all I can see.

[@TheDisturbed0Angel]

Watching this, it has me curious, would there be any advantage to trying to split the model on the sort of 'Natural" crease points of the model? Or would the effort of trying to get all the splits done that way out weigh the advantage, if there even would be one?

[@SAOS451316]

That can be done! With this model though there would always be some extra finishing work to do no matter how you split it. Whether it's worth it depends on how much you hate sanding lol.

[@punishedprops]

That can be done, but I cut it along flat planes so that those surfaces could be printed flat on the print bed.

[@MidnightMaker]

I thought I was safe because I already have the 3D printing pen, but NO. Now I have to buy a Death Star t-shirt...

[@MidasClaw]

Wouldn't a chisel work better than the knife at trimming the excess plastic from the weld?

[@punishedprops]

Yeah that’s a great idea.

[@GrenexPhotos]

Where does one get that "hot knife"?

[@punishedprops]

I got it on Amazon. amzn.to/3BSHrcN

[@Craftlngo]

If you want to see a Magician working with a 3D printing Pen I can only recommend Hoo's Mini World here on KZbin. It's astonishing what he can pull off just using a 3D printing Pen and some tools to work with molten plastic.

[@punishedprops]

Oh awesome!

[@RealAndySkibba]

I print exclusively in PETG. Pretty sure I'm between 68-70% PETG at this point.

[@punishedprops]

I'm really getting to love it.

[@RealAndySkibba]

@@punishedprops it's so much nicer (IMO) for projects than PLA. Don't have to worry about much with it and it's very simple to print with.

[@astrophysicistguy]

Yeah seams are simply a necessary evil in the world of cosplay. I would have been pretty embarrassed to show up at a major Con in my full Mando outfit if I had hadn't spent hours working on the seams on the armor until the pieces looked like they were all made from single pieces. My helmet was 9 separate pieces glued together and I can't imagine what that would have looked like if I didn't eliminate the seams ... with my PRUSA XL there are fewer times now that I have to glue pieces together but it still happens. My current Halo MC build still requires some pieces to be glued and my PRUSA has a 360mm x 360mm x 360mm build volume

[@TheNewBloodDan]

PETG FTW

[@SAOS451316]

A 3d printing pen would be a lot easier than my current "tig welding" method of a soldering iron and stick of filament.

[@punishedprops]

It’s a real luxury.

[@-MrFozzy-]

I’m surprised you didn’t reach out to elegoo for a Giga……

[@rick35149]

why are this channel receiving so little views??

[@noneyabidness9644]

Next do one in 40% dolomite, titanium, zinc, iron, etc. 😂

[@djweso]

Love the lounge reviews. I think lots of bars depend sooo much on the bartender/wait staff of the moment. FYI tall cylinder glasses are Collins Glasses which were then co-opted by water service. But if yours was made with "sour mix" then I'm not surprised it wasn't good.

[@mastalock]

I'm 40% dolemite, baby!

[@gibberishname]

The head looks a bit humongous

[@punishedprops]

That's why we made the cardboard prototype, so we can get a better idea of the correct scale before we build the final head.

[@gibberishname]

​@@punishedprops It _could_ just be because Futurama characters have CRAZY big head to body ratios while still having normal heights. According to his mughsot, Bender is about 6'2" to the top of his antenna, 5'7"-ish to the top of his dome (and the average American male is 5'9") but his head is also about 20 inches tall (not counting the antenna). So instead of being 7-8 "heads" tall like real people, Bender is about 3.25 "heads" tall. So you're stuck where you can build it accurate to the measurements OR fudge it to be look accurate next to a real human.

[@TheFishingExperience916]

Lol " our little car"