Emerald Island Paralever Bushing Kit for many BMW's!

[@dronepilot260rc]

This video is a lifesaver! Now I can get my 2003 K1200 GT back on the road again

[@hmroa3056]

I'm SO glad to find this information. It will solve an issue that shouldn't even exist, if BMW had done it right the first time. THANK YOU Ted Porter, and thank you Kirk!

[@1814Custom]

04:22 use some heat (100°c) to break the locktite bond so you wont cause damage to the threads.. or am I totaly wrong?

[@joenovak2725]

Great video. As of July 2018 the bearings replaced by the Ei Paralever Bushing Kit are $102 each, or $205/pair. Great job BMW! Raising your parts prices faster than US Healthcare rates.

[@SoobikPisik]

You should freeze the bushes before putting them in. They shrink and everything goes in with very small pressure...

[@kirksmotorrad]

Thank you! Hindsight being 20/20 I know you are right. They were not that much of an issue though.

[@alansykes1496]

To refit the FD back up to the drive shaft, stuff a rag under the shaft so it sits in the central position, leaving a tail of the rag hanging out of the tunnel. Engage the spline of the FD into the end of the driveshaft and snatch the cloth out before pushing the FD full home. Simples. Tsk....

[@arwiodense6222]

Cool. just looking at my 96' R1100 GS and have diagnose the palaver bearing to be the fault. So glad I found this. Thank you very much for your awesome videos!

[@lowndeswhatley659]

The backpressure making removal of the grease gun coupling difficult might be relieved by unscrewing the zerk just a turn or so. Zerks usually have a tiny spring-loaded ball check valve. I'd rather leave the zerks installed and cover them with rubber caps. Makes re-lubing easier.

[@bm7760]

Pretty brutal approach. You're lucky you didn't strip-out the threads. Also, you didn't phase the drive shaft.

[@jondebohun9194]

Yes, make a draw bar to draw the new ones in - dont use a hammer. Any grease is not ok. Yes Phase the shaft, clean and re-grease the spline with the proper grease - not just any. However using 243 is an improvement as the BMW spec loctite is way too strong. could have been a good vid.

[@shamoy1000]

Another great video. Have you ever put together a list of repairs / maintenance time table for the k1200LT? I know BMW has scheduled maintenance but they don't mention the impending failures like you know them.

[@LTVoyager]

I am curious to see how they hold up compared to the JL bushings I bought from Rubber Chicken Racing Garage several years ago. My original bearings were shot at 27,000 miles. I had 27,000 miles on the JL bushings when I did my clutch repair last year at 54,000 miles. They looked like new. Just a little more shine in a few spots. It looks like the main differences are tapered vs. what appears to be straight bushings in the Beemershop units and the ability for external greasing. It seems to me that the straight bushings are going to develop play as they wear with no way to adjust it out as with tapered bearings or bushings. If you heat the housing and freeze the races, no need to beat on the races to install them. Just slide them in and wait for nature to take its course. 🙂

[@wee7os]

Points and thanks for good intention on video and showing + bringing up the plausible bearing problem, but yaiks on the works... It is really a bit more complicated than shown. Also, all manuals clearly state correct torque is 150Nm on the right and 7/105 Nm on the left. Why is it too much on this bike? Recommend to check also Chris Harris's video of correct dis-/assembly procedure, he recommends 10..12Nm on the left pivot to avoid bearing wear. Also, was left hoping of mention on vid, how did this occur during daily driving, was there loose or a abnormal noise to detect the flaw?

[@andythejourney.8286]

It's too much pressure because there are no bearings anymore.... its a completely different design. Daily driving gives the wear and tear... gradually becomes looser/vibration etc.

[@keithschuessler3435]

No worries about U-joint phasing?

[@IANRPARKER]

yes I'm worried! Is there a master spline?

[@ChristianKrikorian]

Hi, great video man! question here. I have this kit installed in my bike (R100R) and the mechanic that fitted it, put the female on the outside and the pivot bolt (i.e. the pivot with the integral head) on the inside and the female's lock nut got off riding. Fortunately nothing happened but now I have to buy a new set as I lost the bolt. Question here: does the pivot bolt have to go ALWAYS on the outside side of the swingarm? did this happen because of wrong fitment? Thanks for any answer you could give in the right direction and Happy New Year!

[@kirksmotorrad]

Yes. Put the adjustable side on the inside and the fixed bolt on the outside. It probably came loose due to improper tightening.

[@mariogauthier1957]

thank you for the bearing kit

[@JohnSaguto]

I noticed you did not mention or check for universal joint phasing... it needs to be done on the R1100/1150's (and K 1200's)

[@kirksmotorrad]

I have never encountered a problem with the LT and phasing.

[@borntobewild846]

Do you know if this replacement can be used on the k1100rs or did this model not have the same concerns?

[@seansmith1896]

The kit comes with an unnamed lubricant, which appears to be the same Extreme Pressure Lubricant that comes in the JL kit sold by Rubber Chicken Racing. I don't think this particular special sauce is grease, or even compatible with grease, and since no instructions are provided, I find it hard to just pump these full of grease, especially when the importance of that particular lubricant is explained in the crappy instructions that come in the JL kit. I'm planning on buying a tube of Extreme Pressure Lubricant, loading it into a syringe, and greasing them up with that. It's maddening that they come with a zerk fitting, but that the proper lubricant is almost certainly not regular grease.

[@muybridge3961]

same deal on all the bearings of the F650 rear shock linkage which are standard over the F650 Funduro / GS and Dakar models, easily replaced with oiled bushings of similar size which are likely to outlast the expensive needle rollers specified, if BMW had some decent owner mechanics working for them they'd never sell a new motorcycle!

[@aaron___6014]

Are the bearings still holding up?

[@georgebrowne5935]

Will these bearings fit my 1998 BMW R1100RT? Thanks for your informative Videos

[@kirksmotorrad]

Yes. they should

[@georgebrowne5935]

@@kirksmotorrad Thanks for replying, and also Great Video Help to motorcycle enthusiasts like myself. Very much appreciated.

[@detenator890]

Where can you buy the tool used to torque the lock ring at the 10 minute mark?

[@kirksmotorrad]

That is just a large socket with a hole cut into it with a grinder.

[@stephenhadley2490]

I need to replace my clutch slave arm on my cable clutch R850R. I think I need to remove the whole swingarm to fit the new one. Can I remove the whole swingarm and leave the final drive in place?

[@kirksmotorrad]

unlikely. If you can let us know.

[@Prin435]

So, just fasten the pivot-bolts and done? That is pretty easy (Y) Can you make a review on these after some miles? I was going to replace the pivot bearings this winter anyways, I am going to buy this type if you recommend them. My bike has 51 000miles on it, original pivot bearings. K1200RS. Thumbs up from Norway!

[@kirksmotorrad]

I will re-review them for sure. I was told that Emerald Isle is redesigning them to better meet the demands of GS owners.

[@burnerjack01]

Kirk, just curious, what kind of mileage did you have on those worn bearings you replaced? Just wondering how fast they 'go away'. BTW, as a potential BMW buyer, I really enjoy your videos and your 'no screwin' around, straight to the point' style.

[@johntucker7616]

Thank You!

[@shamjithks]

thanks alot for all your videos. its really help people like me. i own k1200 n trying to build a cafe racer.

[@h.capo.6642]

Hi I just bought the kit, but I can't remove the final drive, any idea? Thanks R1150R

[@kirksmotorrad]

pull harder! use a dead blow hammer if you have to

[@hibernianmelody6761]

Love it thank you

[@АлександрКозеев-с4ы]

Перед установкой новых втулок, алюминий надо греть до 120 градусов

[@sebastianzurek6549]

Dziękuję.

[@claudiosoares2244]

kirk, poderia me indicar onde consigo manual do mecanico desta moto k1200lt ?

[@kirksmotorrad]

You can find one on my Amazon page. www.amazon.com/shop/illinoisbmwriders

[@hmroa3056]

Yo creo que lo puedes encontrar en Amazon. "Clymer repair manual BMW K120T" $40.03 USD

[@Eastsussexbiker]

Hi Kirk would these fit a R1200RTP 2008

[@Man-rf7hx]

Сколько уже они отходили?

[@kirksmotorrad]

I did a follow up video on it. They still look like new and will never wear out

[@nikduffield5457]

Does this kit fit R1100RT??

[@kirksmotorrad]

I dont think so but give them a call to find out for sure. I know it fits the 1150RT...

[@weinjohn]

I see 11092 on site. no 11094?

[@kirksmotorrad]

I think the link goes to 11094

[@solarpower09]

That was cruel! Not heating bolts before removal, to release from locktite, just hammering in the nushings, without heating the seats, no press used to provide paralel for seat surfaces... another replacement this stile and your main gear case is a trash! Not alining Kardan drive joints means high vibration and early death of your final drive and gearbox! Good luck on the road, you need it!

[@kirksmotorrad]

It is still working great, thanks!

[@Eastsussexbiker]

ignore me !!! I can see this is the wrong model now Der !!

[@pedroayala9353]

BMW is way too greedy