Jeep Liberty Diesel Timing Belt Replacement Part 4

[@gbsthlm6174]

You are an real professional, I don't even have this car but watched all video parts. Professional mechanic and explainer. Thank you !

[@IcarusOffroad]

The locking device is to hold the torque while you tighten the bolts. If you don't you will snap the intake and exhaust timing pins, or tear up the intake manifold threads. You could use some sort of adjustable spanner to hold the torque with one hand or helper while you or your other hand torqued the bolt. But you need to be careful that the cams don't turn during this torquing procedure. Hence why the tool is the most sure fire way for a successful timing belt job.

[@brandonmaddy]

Awesome videos! Couldn't get those tools in time ended up making some. I highly suggest the cam gear holder tool. The rest can be made in a pinch. Again thanks a well detailed video.

[@IcarusOffroad]

There has been plenty of discussion about this. One side says its a common rail with constant pressure, the other side says the pressure will never be constant and will vary somewhat with the pulses from the pump piston. In my mind it comes down to this, the pump has a timing mark that works with all the others, so why not use it and put it somewhere where you know it will be good? At the end of the day its easy enough to keep the mark aligned so why not?

[@mariadelosangelesramirezfl4049]

COrobotchicken

[@kburyca63]

I keep looking at this and will certainly make timing marks on the cam gears etc. The think that comes to me is the lack of key or index for the cam gears so they can be installed in any positon. At that point all the marking have no relevance because the cam could move and the gears still installed according to the alignment marks. This would still result in the engine being out of time. I believe the key is in the pins. they are really the only thing that ensures timing is maintained. The injector pump may be the only variable that needs to be marked and aligned during install. This would explain the lack of markings throughout. Just my thoughts. Craig

[@anthonycawley4065]

you might be interested to know that they fit these engines into london black cabs, must be good, i have a cherokee built like a tank, thanks anthony

[@parkinoffp432]

Great informative video thanks.

[@Oldguynotbald]

I am considering buying a used one that the owner said he believes the timing belt has broken. It this the type of engine that could destroy itself if it was running when that happened?

[@IcarusOffroad]

+Gene Vetere It could be destroyed. Or the valves may be fine. This is an interference engine, however the rockers on these engines break before the valves bend. That could mean you only need to do a timing belt service and a rocker service. Or it could have been so bad it damaged the head, or even worse damaged pistons and block. If you pull the valve cover/intake off you can do a leak down test through the injector holes to check the valves. if they are still good then a rocker and timing belt set should fix it. Without tearing into it you will not know. Dont assume the engine is useable. Assume the worst that the engine needs to be replaced. LOST Jeeps CRD section is a good place to learn more.

[@terrymilton-uz4sx]

I have lined up the cams,crank and fuel pump fitted the cam belt checked marks, all good rotated the crank twice, crank and camshafts line up but the fuel pump is out by a quarter of a turn each time,reset fuel pump and it's out again any ideas,I haven't tried to Start it yet

[@chrishanse100]

You ever figure out why? Having same issues.

[@LoganPNW]

Is there any way to do this without the timing pins from dealer

[@maxum25]

Where can I buy the cam gear lock? I have the locking pins.

[@socratis2931]

Hi, how many hours for the job if you know what your doing, pump, 2 pulleys, belt, tensioner and flush coolant?

[@IcarusOffroad]

socratis the quickest I have been done one was about 3.5 hours, and that’s because I had an issue come up with a water pump right before I had to drive across country, as in I was about to leave the driveway and checked my oil first and found the issue. Typically I take about 5-6 hours, which includes some time for pressure washing the radiator and intercooler of accumulated crap. If you find the intercooler has the thermal cracking near the inlet and you want to patch with JB weld this will add time to the job, and usually requires that you cure the job weld overnight. I do have a video I made specifically on what I do for that intercooler repair if you need to see it. A first timer who has reviewed the videos, has tools and parts, i could say 6 hours is typical, upwards of 8 for learning curve. You can do the job without pulling the bumper and such, if for some reason the fan shroud is gone it’s really easy to pull everything out. For me with an electric driver pulling the bumper and header is quick enough and gives me more space to work, and allows me to cleanup the radiator and intercooler with a pressure washer, that I prefer that method. Plus after 100k performance of the radiator and intercooler has to be somewhat degraded by dirt.

[@socratis2931]

@@IcarusOffroad I took it to dealer and instead of original quote of 1000$ they want to charge me 2500 if I want water pump done, and they already started. Thanks for the information.

[@IcarusOffroad]

They can save some time by not replacing the whole pump and only replacing the front half. Do it this way adds about generous hour over just doing the belt. The extra labor is removing the cam gears, and rear timing cover. With that off replacing the front pump is easy. For someone experience in that method it’s about half an hour more labor. There are no moving parts in the back half of the pump, and the aftermarket pumps only come with the front half. The new oem pump will have a new prongs seal that can be transferred with the front half. I don’t know what the shop book rates are for hours. But they will be different for removing the whole pump vs front half. Where are you located?

[@socratis2931]

@@IcarusOffroad nz, their rates are probably 150$ hour. I've looked at videos and some Colorado wheel thread with pictures for replacing all components, the reason I took it to the dealer because other people weren't familiar with the engine but they were ready to take on the challenge and charged more than dealer saying 8 -9 hours. Dealer offered a good rate saying 750 upwards 1000+, but when they opened the engine and got to the belt they called me and asked if I want water pump done? I agreed that at the start and left all parts on the passenger seat. So they put me in a position where only belt gets done and if I disagree with pump exchange they still charge me, then I'd have to go to a different place , take off belt and get to the pump, basically they did not do what I actually asked them to or they were trying to rip me off.

[@IcarusOffroad]

socratis that’s unfortunate. Maybe with the information about how to do the water pump the easy way you can convince them to charge you 1-2 hours extra only. Good luck.

[@anthonycawley4065]

good man thanks for the help, anthony

[@benio5000able]

Hi. It's possible make a pic down hole blocade i.e flywheel

[@IcarusOffroad]

I think we might be losing something in translation. What picture are you looking for?

[@benio5000able]

@@IcarusOffroad where put down pin blocade on fly wheels

[@drevilmike77]

where did you get you cam pulley holder?

[@IcarusOffroad]

Miller 1085.

[@veedubtoyotec7406]

i've done the proper timing still it doesnt start got a new crank sensor,cam sensor injectors done what could it be

[@IcarusOffroad]

Make sure the fuel system is properly bled, if you are not getting fuel out of the CP3 pump or the end of the fuel rail you likely have air trapped in the system. Start with the primer pump on the filter head. If lack of fuel is not the issue the make sure you dont have the cam sensor and the rail sensor swapped, they are very close to each other and have the same type of plug. I have done this on accident many times when I take the rail out, and since the labels fall off easily its basically a 50/50 shot when I first go to startup if I did it right. If you are still having issues LOST Jeeps CRD section is a good resource to help get it figured out.

[@mariadasdoresmiranda6147]

veedub Tokyo a

[@juanwoll2872]

Where could I get the factory tools?

[@IcarusOffroad]

+Juan Woll They are available for rent from a couple of companies such as Green Diesel Engineering. I'd recommend you ask around on the lostjeeps.com CRD section.

[@juanwoll2872]

Many thanks.

[@anthonycawley4065]

if there are no woodruft keys on the cam sprockets why bother to mark them provided the belt sits snug between the two thts extra stress and no need for the expensive locking device. .tone

[@tanglewood777]

how much are the loking pins

[@IcarusOffroad]

Its miller 1052 and miller 1053, but you can also find generic kits around online that have the tools except for the cam locking tool(millter vm 1085).

[@alby2117]

Man. After watching part of this footage I felt like throwing up. The camera moved that much and was never held stead I felt sick. Its a shame as it wouldve been nice to finish watching it.

[@washingtongondo3383]

Poor video underneath