LR3 Discovery Front CV shaft change how to guide

Time to change out the front CV shafts on my 2005 Discovery 3. The reason for changeout was a vibration under load from the front LH side, which turned out to be the LH inner CV joint to be badly worn. I will strip that joint down in a latter video to inspect.
I've replaced the CV shafts with REPCO branded items - with a 20% off sale they ended up similar price to importing cheapies from the UK. The outer CV bell is huge in comparison to the originals so with any luck strength is not an issue. Only one way to find out. For your info, the Repco part numbers where A9496211 and A9496212
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[@Shanes_Shed]

Thanks for watching! Like, comment or sub to support the channel.

[@HOGWORLD39]

Great work, very easy to follow

[@Shanes_Shed]

Thanks for the comment

[@michaelmcbride1307]

Cracking job and tutorial. Thanks mate 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@Shanes_Shed]

thank you for taking the time to drop a comment. Greatly appreciated

[@philr878]

Thanks Shane, great video with some practical tips. I never thought to use repco CV’s so glad you did the comparison. I find right angle ‘heel’ type of pry bar the easiest way to release the c clips as you access along the length of the cv shaft.

[@Shanes_Shed]

Those right angle pry bars could work OK. I don't have one so just use what I have and generally make it work. I guess I'll be a bit of a guinea pig for these repco CV shafts

[@jamieboydmusic6956]

Great tutorial. A definite refer back to if I need to do mine. I appreciate the detail you went into with technique and torque settings.

[@Shanes_Shed]

Thanks Jamie. Appreciate the comment

[@rogerstephenson7820]

Great video, thanks for the info👍👍

[@Shanes_Shed]

No problem 👍

[@SuperSix_384]

Hi Shane, Echoing the comments of other people - thanks for these videos. I'm going to change my Inner CV Boots on L319. In the CV boot video you replaced the Axle Seal on the diff - LHS, but in this one you didn't. Wondering if you'd recommend replacing the axle seal on the LHS when replacing the boot, just as a preventative? Thanks again

[@Shanes_Shed]

I recall from this one I forgot to order a new seal- I normally do them while the cv is out because sometimes if the seals are getting old the removal and replacement of the shafts can cause an oil leak to start

[@michaeldallimore8590]

Great tutorial many thanks.

[@Shanes_Shed]

Your welcome, really appreciate the comment

[@Discoworx]

Great tutorial! Thanks!

[@Shanes_Shed]

You're welcome!

[@user-bc9cy4ej4o]

Great video Shane, Simplified perfectly. Can I ask if you experienced a knocking when braking from the drive shaft? I am fault finding my Range Rover sport and have changed sway bar rods, bushes , inner and outer tie rods rotors pads and torqued everything. But watching this I this is the next step

[@Shanes_Shed]

Not really. When the inner CV joint was worn I was getting a driveline vibration under acceleration. Are you just getting a single knock when braking or is it a constant knocking?

[@downtheshedwithbyron]

And over of all the ads to watch Byron Bay beers comes up haha

[@Shanes_Shed]

Haha, how's the irony of that

[@downtheshedwithbyron]

Mate great video dude

[@Shanes_Shed]

It's better than my first attempt when I stuffed up the camera settings...

[@mybrilliantlife9476]

I've got a persistent clicking from the right rear it sounds like, I suppose I'll change out the axles see if that fixes it

[@Shanes_Shed]

Does the clicking change if you alter the air suspension ride heights?

[@mybrilliantlife9476]

I've converted to springs, it's a bit maddening, I can only think it's a bad bearing or cv

[@Shanes_Shed]

Ah, did the clicking start after the conversion?

[@mybrilliantlife9476]

I suppose it may have

[@Shanes_Shed]

Sounds like a worn CV - normally get the clicking in the front when turning as the CV's generally wear in the normal straight ahead position. When turning the CV balls are running over the wear grooves and you get the clicking. Probably your experiencing the same thing in the rear due to a slightly different ride height from the suspension change.

[@joeyhummer]

Had the same issue and ended up changing the R/H drive shaft and bearing at 290k. Looks like it its the L/H sides turn soon. I went repco driveshafts and with the 25% off they arn't too badly priced and went with timken bearings.

[@Shanes_Shed]

Guess I done alright with 420,000km on mine then. I knew the outer CV's where getting close to end of life anyway since the last CV boot change I done - was just waiting for them to start clicking. Timken bearings are the way to go, done my fronts when I purchased this D3 and haven't needed to change them since

[@joeyhummer]

@@Shanes_Shed thats a bloody good run on the cvs then. Yeah hopefully I can get the 100k/5Years out of these and I'll be happy. Keep up these videos mate 👍

[@jacksrcat]

Does diff oil need topping up after ? None seemed to leak out

[@Shanes_Shed]

If nothing leaks out then your probably good. Obviously if your pulling a driveshaft because of a leaking seal then defiantly check the level. Doesn't take much effort to pull the fill plug to check the level

[@tonygoodman4609]

Hi Shane Could you please advise the repco part number for drivers side cv and axle Thanks

[@Shanes_Shed]

The part numbers I have are A9496211 and A9496212. I cant recall which one was for the drivers side however.

[@EwanCasey-vz9yz]

Can anyone please tell me the repco part numbers.. cant seem to match them on the repco website. Thanks and cheers

[@Shanes_Shed]

Great question, apologies for not posting those details. The ones I used where A9496211 and A9496212

[@EwanCasey-vz9yz]

Thank you Shane, keep up the great work.