Maintain the Lethal Tank in your Shop -- Air Compressor Safety Keep it DRY / Inspect it

[@kman-mi7su]

Good video! I have a 5-year-old compressor and I drain my every single day religiously.

[@gregsmith2262]

The price of a tank is low compared to the alternative. Thanks for enlightening me this was something not on my radar.

[@kartboarder22g17]

Tank is the price of a compressor right?

[@kalemercer7053]

Great PSA. A machine shop I worked at had two good tricks to prevent this problem, they had a large tank blow up and seriously injurer one of the owners in the past. So they were very serious about there safety with them. 1st they would coat the lower 1/2 of the the tank with a paint, enamel, or epoxy coating by dumping a few gal's in and then rotating the tank around to bring it up the walls. This would extend the tanks life span noticeably. 2nd each 100gal compresses had a 4in PVC pipe in to a 50gal drum next. It was full of desiccant that pulled moisture out of the air before it got in to the compresser. They still checked them regularly.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Wow, sounds like they definitely took it seriously! I've heard that a lot of newer tanks are epoxy coated on the inside from the factory too. I'm surprised nobody makes any good stainless steel tanks. I guess they don't make them because stainless steel is not as strong and tends to be more brittle?

[@gumelini1]

@@NoNonsenseKnowHow actually i had a stainless steel water tank,you know that thing that you need when you have a water well.I don't really know the proper name of it since English is not my first language.But anyway,it was new and it kept cracking on the welds.And it only had 4 bars of pressure inside.It seems it not a very good material for the application.I replaced it after the third leak and repair,and from that experience i would never want a stainless steel air compressor tank.It just seem to brittle to me at least

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Yeah I did some reading up on stainless tanks after this video and that's exactly what I read as well. Mild steel can take the expansion and contraction much better

[@gumelini1]

@@NoNonsenseKnowHow i put engine oil in my compressor tanks now and shake it really nicely so that the entire inner surface gets coated in oil.I then drain the oil and repeat this procedure a few times a year.You wouldn't belive how clean and shiny the inside of my tanks looks like.Not even a spot of rust

[@lewisdrake8732]

@@gumelini1 Great idea. Mechanics can use this trick, but not painters.

[@andyquick5839]

I had never seen any videos of a compressor exploding. What an eye opener! Sometimes it takes seeing something like this to make people realize how dangerous not doing some very simple maintenance can be. You could be saving someone’s life by showing this. I got a Craftsman compressor (22 gallon) back in 1984. I got rid of it a couple of years ago, and I don’t think I opened the drain on it more than 3 or 4 times the entire time I owned it. That won’t happen with my new one! Thanks for the informative, and possibly life saving video!

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Yeah seeing Clips like this are definitely a big eye opener! Good to hear you got rid of your tank from 1984. I suppose there's nothing wrong with older tanks as long as you make sure to inspect them once in a while and keep them drained. Thanks for commenting and happy to hear you got some value out of the video

[@tomt9543]

I noticed another item on that small Husky that you showed near the end. I’ve seen this on several brands of small compressors including 12 volt units that are supposed to be mounted to truck beds. The drain valve is mounted up the side of the tank, not at the bottom, and it would be impossible to properly drain the condensate if it was mounted to a truck bed! I actually called the distributor of the 12 volt models to make sure they were aware of the problem. The compressors are made in China (shocker) and the distributor quickly informed me that putting the drain port on the bottom would be inconvenient because it would make it necessary to make the mounting legs a bit longer and run up the cost of the unit! WOW!

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Yeah definitely not a good location for the drain Port. I usually just till the tank sideways when I drain it

[@BenjaminEsposti]

If they're worried about that small amount of extra metal, I'd also worry about the tank thickness being too thin. Just a little rust after a year and bOOM!

[@javaman2883]

There's some models now that do not even have a drain port, just the port up top for working air.

[@tomt9543]

@@javaman2883 A disaster waiting to happen!

[@maff1975]

I have no idea why this in my recommendations, I don’t have a compressor but I watched and enjoyed it all the same. The magic of the KZbin algorithm

[@ChiDraconis]

Political landmass shifted; Chinese Communist Party official channel had their UK License pulled like yesterday ~ other shifts in what is presented have occurred or will occur - YT does not have an "Algorithm" look at all those computer books on my You Tube Canvass it is a political tool for Gaslighting enemy - Gaslighting as I am speaking of is you blow some methane up somebody's annular orifice then light it with special device known as Clown Pyrotechnics ◘ Alky Clowns getting tanked have featured LNG Vehicles though I am wiser and will not get within 1 Kilometer of them due to shrapnel • Methane remains liquid at minus 161.5º Centigrade which is to say Methane has a boiling point of −161.5 °C at a pressure of one atmosphere - Haynes, page 3.344 ◘ Haynes, William M., ed. (2016). CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics (97th ed.). CRC Press. ISBN 9781498754293 ◘ These tanks have failed in-use though I cannot determine at just this point if these are non-us failure events • Suffice it to say that when I observed one at Buc-cee's I reported to a manager since diesel will not fuel an LNG Vehicle ○ A failure event in the LNG Storage will obliterate your body due to greater power than a M67 grenade & Most consumer first-aid kits to not have arterial clamps which won't do you any good anyway in an LNG Tank Failure >>> Best approach is to go ahead and vent the tank into closed containment then light it off with an incendiary ignitor so that you get it over with quicker since lack of professional Morphine analogs defeats having pain-blockers when tanks accidentally "Go"

[@derekhieb7458]

Steel rust can be up to 100X the thickness of missing steel. Great video

[@garryverniest5893]

Personally I do not worry too much about vertical tanks. The dome shape concentrates the corrosion to a small area that will eventually get weak enough to produce a leak but it will not likely burst the tank. A horizontal tank on the other hand will rust all along the bottom producing a long thin pitted area where the tank can tear and burst producing a catastrophic failure. Think of all the failures you have seen or heard about. They are probably all horizontal tanks. Edit: It seems I may have been wrong. Please read all the replies.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Yes I agree with your statement. I should have covered that more in the video. I actually thought about doing a test one two different tanks to show the difference. Weaken the bottom of a vertical tank and then weaken the side of a horizontal tank and pressurize both in an open field somewhere

[@ksbs2036]

Oh, that is an interesting observation. I have a small compressor with the pancake tank (essentially two shallow domes with a small cylinder between them). I'll continue to empty it after every use but I won't worry as much about it now. The compressor tank had a 'best before date' of 2020 on it ... I guess similar to what the propane tanks have. I'm going to ignore this date given that I maintain the tank.

[@javaman2883]

A number of manufacturers of horizontal compressors put the tank seam along the bottom for aesthetic reasons (not seeing that unsightly weld) which means the seam is also at the area of greatest risk of rusting.

[@t-jpro3076]

@@NoNonsenseKnowHow that would make a good video!!

[@jayfromtexas6718]

@@ksbs2036 I have gone through several pancake compressors. I believe the little tanks are bullet proof. In my experience, the compressors fail long before the tank would.

[@ryanroberts1104]

Age in years doesn't really matter...it's all about service. Even with the small tanks you can buy a USB endoscope for about $15 and check it through any 1/4" hole. I have an air tank made in the 1940s, still in use, because it has no rust. It was originally part of the air brake system on a train. The inside of the tank is coated in some kind of black goo, probably tar, to prevent rusting. It might be a good idea to coat the inside of a new air tank, or maybe just the bottom, with something to prevent rust. Maybe some kind of gas tank coating you could dump in there and swirl around. I was absolutely shocked when I opened up my 1940s tank and there was no rust!

[@phiksit]

try Fluid Film

[@ksbs2036]

I removed the drain plug on mine and sprayed in some light oil. I get water out after every run and fortunately it's always clear. Great video by the way. No harm in warning folks. In every field there's always a newcomer who is learning

[@BlueDroneBlues]

1940! If that isn’t a lesson in durability and doing proper maintenance. That is a lesson we can all learn from.

[@thestephenspann276]

@@phiksit unless you want to use it with a paint gun

[@priscwy794frag]

@@ksbs2036 This seems reasonable, I shall follow this procedure. Still as one comnent says the inspection with cheap endoscope once in a year is the final estimation.

[@realvanman]

A very nice video. Most people are unaware of the danger. Tanks should be periodically tested with a hydrostatic pressure test. It's a proof test to a prescribed pressure above the safety valve setting, done with the tank filled with water. Water is not compressible, so if the tank fails the test, there is no danger.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Yeah the hydro test is definitely the way to go. But at least an internal inspection every 5 years or so would be decent. It seems the horizontal tanks are much more dangerous when they rust out. Versus a vertical tank. A lot more stress on the side walls of a tank

[@realvanman]

@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Yes, I agree. I'd guess that, if a vertical tank was well bolted to the floor, it would probably stay put if the bottom were to blow out. Horizontal tanks release the energy so fast that it seems the feet just tear off. Scary!

[@observingrogue7652]

This is great, thank you. Saved my life, and my balls. Not only will I get a compressor for tools, like normal. But I was also thinking of building a small compressor into a motorcycle, to power pneumatic things, ride hight adjustment, anti dive & squat, tire inflator, moving bodywork like the active wing on a hypercar, and the Space X package on the new Teala Roadster, inspired me to experiment with airjets to improve performance. This video, and others about tank explosions, gave me a lot to think about.

[@bowleysmokes3406]

The only way to know for sure if that tank is shot would be some form of a hydrostatic test, might actually be super interesting to see if it fails or not.

[@herseem]

Absolutely. You can do all the inspections you want, the only way to be sure is a hydrostatic pressure test

[@ronblack7870]

that is very easy to do yourself .

[@WootTootZoot]

I saw that old video a few years ago and it scared the hell out of me. I had purchased a used compressor and the guy I got it from had no idea how old it was. I junked it and got a new one and get it pressure tested every other year.

[@glenpaul3606]

That was mild...watch a recent you tube called AIR COMPRESSOR WARNING by Third Generation Racing. Now that one was scary !!

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Thanks for the recommendation. I just checked out his video now. A great example

[@JamesDoylesGarage]

This is seriously great that you posted this. I spoke about on a post and had some guy reply about the safety value and saying 100 psi is not a big deal. He needs to see your video.

[@Meiestrix]

When you use your compressor daily, in a professional environment, you could also invest in a stainless steel air tank.

[@damianbright6685]

Not needed. Drain your tank weekly (apprentice job on a friday). Compressed air system typically in a professional setting is lifed at 10-15 years

[@michaelhall7921]

It is very good advice re a Stainless cylinder., preferably 316. After being worried for years being around high pressure gasses sometimes to the tune of 4000 + Oxy & diving cylinders which are right against the vital organs -just for fun! The chap with the unfortunate cylinder explosion has been very forthright in saying he made a mistake to repair that cylinder when pin holes were seen. I didn't se that quote before writing any post so sorry about that......... I have been welding over 60 years with a gas ticket but I am dubious welding a high pressure vestle for air. I did weld two stainless beer barrels together, given to me , to make a very nice hot water cylinder deemed high pressure at 2 bar! That's the difference in not being on 'tenderhooks' with a homemade cylinder at 3 bar max compared to air cylinder at a possible 12 bar. I don't even like welding in any extra ports regarding the safety aspect but I suppose the welds would be stronger than all the parent metal put together. I wonder did a machine weld the seems on this propane cylinder? They certainly look good. Never seen any water around or in my system at all---- strange that especially in the wet UK.

[@MrJayrock620]

Stainless doesn’t mean rustless, and the welds are usually what fail anyways. Get a dryer, drain your tank regularly and inspect inside and out once a year.

[@duskyman1]

@@michaelhall7921 yeah that would be a game changer some yahoo welded on a pressure vessel..... Especially a corroded one. What you tend to do is blow more pinholes in it and make it worse, just melting away good metal.

[@Mukundanghri]

Thanks for the reality check. It has crossed my mind often.

[@ShortyzProductionz]

I would recommend always cleaning and painting the inside of your tank when you first get it. That’ll prevent moisture from eating away the inside of your tank

[@NSilver832]

Would you please explain how to paint the inside of the tank?

[@ShortyzProductionz]

@@NSilver832 take the pump and motor off. Plug all holes except one. If it’s a new tank you’ll want To dump acetone or something similar to get rid of all oils. Dump it in then roll around the tank. Dump out the acetone, unplug the holes to let it dry. Replug the holes and dump some rust primer inside, roll the tank to coat everything, dump out the extra then let it dry. I used a hair dryer and heat gun to keep thing nice and warm but also to keep air movement inside the tank while drying otherwise it’ll take forever to dry

[@ShortyzProductionz]

@@NSilver832 I have a full series rebuilding my compressor if you want to go watch all of them. Here’s me doing the tank. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nomZmYyBqNxriZI

[@michaelhall7921]

@@ShortyzProductionz Good idea that re the heater. I used my plastic welder but had to fit an adaptor to the nozzle. ended up with 100ml x 2 red oxide. put a plug into the bottom when upside down and noted did the plug have paint on it ? yes it did therefore after rolling it around so that all the internal surfaces are coated the lastly upside down so any remaining paint must coat the bung confirms all is covered...... One important item = do not use any heater with sparks such as a paint stripper/heater. It could be fatal using the wrong heater....... Health and safety must thing engineers are insane?

[@ShortyzProductionz]

@@michaelhall7921 I’m not sure what paint you’re using but mine isn’t flammable to a heat gun. Unless you’re talking about the acetone. I wouldn’t use anything to assist drying acetone, let that air dry and keep all the fresh air moving possible

[@simplybeanjelly]

I was going to try to restore an old tank I got for free, but I know it's rusty and after seeing this, I know I just need to get rid of it, in fact I might cut a hole in it to keep people from trying to repurpose it like I was going to

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

That's good call! That's part of the reason I cut mine open. Maybe take a peek inside first. Who knows it could be rust free

[@kenreese2791]

If you put a wrench on one of those big pipe plugs and it won't come off . Try tightening it until it moves then turn it off . For some reason pipe threads bind up and tightening makes it move .

[@duskyman1]

If you want to keep the inside of your compressor tank dry it's simple......... Really simple. At least for home use where it's seldom used. Drain the water while it's under pressure after use. Then depressurize it. Slowly. Through the bottom drain is good. Because the pressurization condensed the water in the air and you removed it by draining, when you depressurize it the air becomes unsaturated and the inside of the tank will be fairly dry in normal conditions. Severe corrosion problems are caused by improper use. Or laziness take your pick. For general home use compressor tanks should last a long long time. Of course it would be prudent to only use an old one ...20+ yrs....outdoors as well... Staying well away from it. .... Mines 30 yrs currently. I pretty much only use it outdoors anyway....and have 75' hose

[@scottkolaya2110]

Thanks, I'm planning on doing a hydrostatic pressure test at double the pressure this year.

[@jackking5567]

I had a low use 6 year old unit and the tank was supposedly lined with a plastic coating. After seeing an explosion video I made an inspection of the inside. That plastic lining was partial and did not cover every internal surface. The rust had almost eaten through the base (outer paint was weepy). There are some shoddy tanks out there. I would never buy a used tank.

[@tomt9543]

I’m right with you on that one! I know a guy who does air compressor maintenance and repair, mainly big industrial units 100 hp or more, and he will not touch one of these home/diy for good reason. Several years ago someone brought him a used, but very good appearing, big box store compressor that he’d bought at a yard sale. Wanted Gene to check it out for him. Having always been Leary of the small units, he put it a good ways out from his shop and ran a large gauge drop cord to it. He plugged the drop cord into the receptacle and the little fella started pumping air…for about 1 minute or so. Then a massive, window shattering explosion! The remains of the tank looked like one of the coyotes failed masterpieces on the Roadrunner cartoon! Had it been in the shop, Gene would have been seriously injured or worse, and the building would have suffered severe damage also! He claims that almost every brand of these things have gone to thinner and thinner tank steel, and stopped coating the inside surfaces! It’s interesting to note that nearly all industrial pressure vessels (tanks) are now built with a grid of holes 1/4”+ or-, drilled about halfway through the tank sheet. If corrosion gets through the bottom of one of these holes it will blow a jet of air to warn workers that the tank is compromised and should be replaced, but is actually not in danger of exploding yet.

[@spaight711]

You can keep using old tanks even if they’re rusty, if you test them periodically. It’s rated for 200, so you hydro-test it to 300 and if it passes, you know it can hold.

[@mfk12340]

It can pass your hydro test but still fail. The hoop stress is the reason they fail, so you have to make sure that the strain returns to zero. Basically make sure the tank bulges, and then returns to it's before bulge size, and that's the most important part.

[@superdave7241]

Out here in South Texas the air is so muggy especially during the Summers that I empty it after every single use without exception and I leave the valve open. That way even a small amount of air can still get in there instead of sealing up any residual moisture. It's amazing how much water will build up in the tank after a few hours of use. It would really suck to have a tank blow up at a customer's house or just while you're driving 💥

[@alexanderc05]

Thank you for taking the time to show us the dangers and automatic drainers, am finding a safe place for my air tank, my air tank is about 20 years old from Sears Craftsman's.

[@altonsteel5145]

My Painter friend used to wire the blow off Valve to stay closed on his air tanks. He needs to see this Video !!!

[@kk2sal]

thanks for the explanation on how manual discharger worked. it really is a beautiful design.

[@salvadorcortezjr6572]

Thank you for the safety tips bro I had no idea how dangerous a air compressor could be until I seen a video before seen your video. It might be blablabla to some people but it probably save my life.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

No prob man.

[@quantumleap359]

Good video. Lots of common (and not so common) sense info. I drain my vertical tank every month, not much water comes out, but good to know water doesn't stay in there long. Thanks.

[@jphickory522]

No way to completely dry the inside of the tank after draining. 24 Oz of water or 2 Oz of water…. still gonna rust

[@doncodman913]

If you have a very large access port like yours that would allow access to rust kill and paint to help protection but only when the tank is new. Usually the electric motor may be near end of its life on the small hobby compressors.

[@dimbulb330]

Although pricey, it can be a good idea to use a major name tank that is lined. As for things like the husky, count the years and swap out the tank at some point of it's not used a lot. An air dryer before the tank ( receiver) can help also. There are small ones out there, again pricey sometimes but once you have one you will enjoy it.

[@scottschenk5456]

Agreed. Vertical tanks do limit the moisture concentration to a small area but it is imperative to keep the water drained. The debris formed can get in your pneumatic tools and destroy them as well. An inline dryer is not cost effective but can help keep crud out of painting tools. If the use is for airing tires, it is not critical. Sandblasting and painting, it is imperative to keep moisture out. Water doesn't compress and must be continually emptied!

[@jdrissel]

I have wondered if zinc plating the inside would help, or maybe these tanks should be made from stainless or composites? Either way, I vote for an automatic drain valve. I set one up for a shop many years ago. We had it run for 30 seconds after the compressor turned off. I had a flow sensor that I was working on that would have kept the compressor disarmed in the event that the vent did not flow enough drain air, but I didn't get that working reliably. We had a 20HP and a 30HP compressor with a refrigerated dryer. We used so much air that our first thought, run compressors alternately failed. After finding it down to 65psi or so I switched it to the larger compressor manually. Then it happened with the big compressor running. I knew the control circuit was only 24vac, so I used a pair of needle-nosed pliers to jump both compressors on. When it cut off, a ran off and made a more permanent run both switch.

[@tommysparks6536]

I just bought me a you 80 gallon husky air compressor I'm somebody who broke the air compressor I thought it was no good the tank was made in 2017 so I think I'm going to get me a dryer for it I never knew what they were so this video thank you for your video it might have saved my life like my garage right next to where I work

[@doncodman913]

Hi Tommy . There are not any items to stop H2o being sucked into the Tank. There a lots of driers and filter capsules that remove the moisture to stop the water getting in your tools and sprayguns etc.

[@antonioponce6544]

My first compressor had one of those screw type condensate drains. It was a PIA to use so I didn't use it much. Not as much as I should have. Luckily I live in SoCal where humidity is usually low and I didn't use it but probably at most 4 hours a week. When I did drain the that compressor the water that came out was full of rust and had a dark rust color. My current compressor I installed a ball valve at the end of a 1 foot brass pipe that is attached to an elbow at the drain. I drain it monthly and the water that comes out has no rust. The water sits in the brass pipe and with the ball valve a slight pull and it all comes out.

[@dubmob151]

Saw those drain extenders for about $13, with a steel braided hose and ball valve. Seems it would be better for them to make something using a blow nozzle for a valve, so you'd just have to simply push it to drain. The button could be located where it's easily accessible, making it much more likely to be used frequently to keep it purged. Only issue that I could see with that is the blower nozzles might not be designed to pass the crud coming from the tank bottom, and start sticking open. But then, maybe that's also a sign the tank deterioration is imminent.

[@javaman2883]

@@dubmob151 The blow nozzle would be irrelevant, many blow guns have a removable nozzle. A piece of rust could get stuck in the valve and cause the spring valve to not close. A ball valve should be able to crush the rust unless it's a big flake.

[@jessejohnson159]

HD trucks use an 'automatic air tank drain' on the wet tank that uses a pressure differential to open a seal and drain the tank every time the air compressor cycles. Not expensive and can be disassembled to service. You can find it here at NAPA under PN: TWD VEL034043 (If you shop around I think you can find it for a lower price!) I do not recommend to install outside where freezing conditions can damage the assembly. Only one moving part inside. Some do come with heaters to prevent freezing but need either 12 or 24 VDC to operate when the temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. And YES, I have them installed on my two air compressor tanks!

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Yeah. That's a similar unit to the one I what's showing in the video.

[@BlueDroneBlues]

I never want anyone to get hurt. This should be a good lesson on safety. Follow instructions in the manual and keep that tank empty and dry when not in use. Takes not even a minute to drain the tank and down the road could save your life or someone else. Besides, think about the mess someone will have to clean up when it does happen. Glad everyone is okay.

[@MrAluntus]

You are never bla bla bla.. always learn stuff from you. Thank you!

[@flat-earther]

hi mraluntus have you become a flat earther yet? If not I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. I got it in my about tab.

[@JTs3DPrints]

I've done inspections on air tanks for past 23 years with insurance companies in field I am in. We use a thickness transducer and check welds at both heads ends of tanks in at least 4 spots around circumference along with the longitudinal welds. If tank has any spot with 10% loss or more than original stamped thickness the tank is drilled and disposed of. We also do visual inspection on inside of tank to look for active corrosion and pitting. This is done every two years. The quality of the steel is not what it used to be. Make sure you keep tanks drained and implement at minimum an internal inspection program for your home air tank. You should test the safety relief regularly. A little bit of time can save a life or limb.

[@jayfromtexas6718]

To me, your search for and replacing your tank would make a great video. I’m betting we’re all guilty of neglect and many of us are on borrowed time.

[@tomsmith8255]

Thanks. This is what I've been looking for. Short, clear and with footage of the real thing. I would advise You to never bother with people who are trying to show off by saying something is "too simple" and "you shouldn't do something", because it's just prideful showing off and egoism on their part. Answer "You don't have use for it, don't watch it. It takes a few seconds to switch the video off. Other people will benefit.". Personally I would probably use two or three release valves just in case one or two gets stuck. There are air filters too I think, for air coming into the tank so it's demoisturized before entering the system. I don't know how much moisture is left after Such a device. Also what would You say about those aluminium or stainless steel tanks or some other materials? Are they safe from this? Do they have other dangers or toxicity or something? Safety first, life and health is the most important and it's not worth being greedy on saving money for safety precautions. Thanks again.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Hey Tom, happy to hear you found the video interesting and useful. I've been around air compressors my whole life and didn't realize until about a year ago how insanely dangerous they can be when rusted out. I appreciate your comment and input

[@stuarthelliwell6784]

I wouldn't invest in an aluminium tank as they have a laughable lifespan maybe a quarter of a mild steel and I may be wrong but stainless may have a tendency to work harden over time and risk bursting due to being brittle,, it's a similar situation to divers air tanks aluminium is great because they are lightweight but not as long lasting due to every time they are filled up and emptied the tank expands and contracts weakening the pressure vessel thats why mild steel is used as its more malleable and forgiving,,, the best bet is to buy a ultrasonic tester and inspect it regularly

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

That makes total sense. Definitely true about the stainless steel tanks. I was going to buy a stainless steel hot water tank for my house a while back but I read that they are more liable to crack overtime. Definitely get brittle

[@Jacoblikesyoutube]

Drain often! Any shop I've worked in never drains it and whenever they do at least a gallon of rusty/greasy water pushes out.

[@mikeslater6246]

I wasn't able to look at all the comments but I didn't see anyone answer your question about whether you should get rid of that tank. That big chunk of metal you showed from the magnet definitely says you need to get rid of that tank. I got my brother-in-law's compressor from his home shop after he passed away and used it myself for about 20 years until a year-and-a-half ago when I moved and decided I didn't want to take a chance with it. I still have it and planning to open it before I discard it. But I think he had it for 10 to 20 years and I'm actually guessing that thing is probably in pretty bad shape. Even though I did maintenance on our air compressors at my work I was pretty lax on the one at my home. I now drain the air out of my new tank and leave the valve open after every use. I've actually had the water being expelled from the new tank I just filled up and finished using freeze coming out of the petcock because of the high humidity and of course the sudden drop in pressure which causes a cooling effect. The frozen water stopped the escape of the air for just a minute or so until the warm air in the garage melted the ice on the petcock.

[@arkman8109]

Always plumb the relief valve upright. When upside down sludge and corrosion can build up and cause it to malfunction.

[@ltpls1]

The welds on the tank generally will fail first with pin hole leaks. The tank you have is an ASME-NB rated tank. That’s the best you can have. Same rating as your Champion work compressors.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

If you see the update video, looks like this one was pretty close to failing on the bottom. I cut it open and the thing was damn near paper thin in some pits. Good to know though. And interesting about the rating. That makes sense. I always heard big red machine's made top-of-the-line compressors

[@glenpaul3606]

You could clean out that tank and spray Ospho. Ospho is phosphoric acid which stops all rust by turning iron oxide into iron nitrate which is an inert substance. Ospho also acts as a primer for paint. Learned about Ospho living by the ocean. Used it on a very rusty on the outside gas tank. Sprayed it good with Ospho, let it dry then wiped off the white powder residue and painted the tank with a Rustoleum paint. Kept 500 gallons of gasoline in that tank and 5 years later only 20 feet from the saltwater it had not a speck of rust anywhere. Great stuff ! After treating the inside of the tank and drying it thoroughly you could spray an anti rust paint. Provided your tank only had surface rust it will last a long time. The bottom looks to be past the point of treating like mentioned above. Time to replace the tank or cut the bottom off and weld on a new one. TANKS ARE EXPENSIVE... $500-$800 likely for one that size. If you do weld on a new bottom, it would be good to use Ospho on the rest and paint it first. Then you could paint the new bottom and have a tank that should last a long time.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

The rust and pitting was pretty deep. In a later video I cut open the bottom and inspected it

[@glenpaul3606]

@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Yes it looked like thick rust..

[@user-pc8tb7hg1lHandlesRDumb]

I like how you e be come the authority of air compressor safety.

[@tigriukasinlove]

thats why i recommend keep compressor (outside or at least in some kind of steel cage) just in case of shrapnel you never know what can happen and a bit of safety wont harm you at all

[@kieranrichardson7929]

Fill the tank with water just the bottom and try to put a brush inside and wash the bottom then drain it through the hole. Keep running water through so it cycles and all the stuff is out. Once it’s out use a different compressor to dry the rest of the moisture. That will show you if you really need to change it.

[@doncodman913]

Look ,if you are worried about the age and condition contact a compressor service company. Take it there. Ask for them to inspect it. They will test it to approx 2 times working pressure Or maybe ultrasonic test to tell you it is dangerous or safe. Industry has to get theirs checked. Speak to the guy maybe cash . Then either get another NEW tank with inspection certificate or get a new compressor and possibly connect the old motor so you have 2 motors on one tank.

[@7t2z28]

When I bought my upright, first thing I did was take off the garbage petcock and install a pipe with a 1/4 turn valve that I can easily access. I drain my tank daily.

[@mythril4]

Get tanks with high ASME certifications. My current one is certified to 480PSI, it is so thick that even if you erode 1/2 the thickness, it's still good to 200PSI. That being said, you can have you tank hydrotested and recertified.

[@milantrcka121]

My old compressor, equivalent to a good Sears horizontal type, died by rust pitting and leaky tank at the bottom. Since then, I got a professional 2 cylinder compressor, second hand with known pedigree. Added an elbow to the tank drain, a 1/4" tube, and brought the drain valve to the front where I can open it easily. Normally stays open unless use it. Not draining the compressor regularly is really asking for trouble.

[@mousejjt2]

I was always told that drain valves can not b replaced at home and must buy a new compressor or send to factory

[@milantrcka121]

@@mousejjt2 Standard thread (1/4" pipe thread in my case). M to compression fitting elbow, 1/4" copper tube, standard 1/2 turn valve. Teflon paste sealing compound. far end supported on the undercarriage crossbar. All the hardware is good to 200 psi or better. Max pressure set to 150 psi.

[@jvcyt298]

I serviced commercial air compressors at gas stations for over a decade and I had never heard of a tank blowing up like that. The commercial units that I serviced or installed had a tank bleeder that released a little from the bottom of the tank at the end of every cycle. I'm sure that the cheaper Chinese homeowner units have thinner walls on their tanks and are made with cheaper material than the ones made in the US many years ago.

[@jphickory522]

This ^^

[@tomruth9487]

@jvcyt298, That would be my guess also. I have a large Dayton tank and compressor I do see some rust in the water when I drain it, but I'm guessing the steel is pretty thick on the older american made more commercial type tanks.

[@clarencewiles963]

Thumbs up 👍 also use a pressure regulator for your air tools most are rated for 90 psi. 😊

[@walter2670]

Mine is a 1998. When I got it it was pretty rusty. I don’t drain it near often enough. I am going to try and clean all the chunks out and add an automatic drain. And a replace with a quiet compressor sooner than later.

[@walter2670]

Replaced it with a Flexilla 20 gallon. Wow should done it so much sooner. Auto drain install with be very soon

[@johnny1556]

Brother, thanks for that info this is the second video that I have ran into on KZbin. I didn't think that air compressor tanks will do that. I am sort of a DIY guy, I have a small air compressor 100 psi that I use now and then and drain it after use. I leave the valve open until the next time. I am thinking of get a bigger one, 175 to 200 psi. And yes I think it's time for you to get another compressor.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

No problem man, I'm glad you found it useful information! Yeah I ended up replacing this one a short time after I posted this video

[@gordbaker896]

Drain couplings are installed by shoving a pipe coupling through a hole and seal welding. This leaves a projection inside that prevents draining completely. The remaining moisture starts corroding the shell. You cannot 'inspect' the inside with any degree of accuracy just by looking. The only sure method is a Hydrostatic test. Fill the tank with Water, put on a 3-400 PSI accurate gauge on top and hook up your Pressure washer as remotely as possible. Stand behind a secure wall of somekind and very slowly increase the pressure to 180 PSI. 1.5 times operating pressure for 1 hr.

[@jayfromtexas6718]

I have two 60 gallon single stage compressors. Both are 20+ years old. I too am bad about not draining them like I should. Wonder what you found on replacement tanks? So yes, I’m now scared shitless, thanks buddy.

[@flinch622]

Blowoff valve: its good to stay at 80% or less of receiver test pressure generally speaking. Tag doesn't show that - just mawp [which has some engineering factor already built in].

[@AlwaysOnP0int]

If anyone is wondering, the best way to deal with this is to install an aftercooler with a water / oil trap before the tank. It removes 95% of the moisture and you'll have far less moisture ending up in the tank needing to be drained.

[@johnkruton9708]

I installed a similar timer on my compressor and hooked up the power to a switched outlet. That way I can turn the auto drain off/on depending on my usage. The Auto drain scares the beejeesus outa’ me when I forget to turn the power switch to the drain off. My drain is considerably louder than yours!

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Yeah they are pretty loud if left open for sure. That's why I used that old Muffler and shoved the line in there. Quieted it down quite a bit. Still scares me to touch when it goes off, but I'm getting used to it

[@AlexM-ym7kd]

Also, would it be a good idea to replace the 200 PSI relief valve with a 100 PSI one and set the regulator to 90 PSI? For most DIYs that's plenty for most garage/shop operations.

[@Imwright720]

With such a large opening I think I’ll put a sealer in it when I buy a new one. My fuel tank has a coating that was done professionally and was only 100 bucks. I’m sure I could get them coat a new compressor tank.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Yeah that could be a good idea. But then again what if it just traps moisture under the coding and causes it to rust faster? And also you can't do a good inspection anymore

[@Imwright720]

They did my diesel fuel tank in 2008. It’s still fine. It’s a thin liquid they pour in and then spin the container so everything is coated. It’s not like an epoxy. I don’t know what it is but it’s an industrial coating and since inside it’s protected from scratches. I do see your point buts like a stain so it wouldn’t seal moisture under it. I’m getting ready to buy a new on to replace what I have. I’ll see what they say.

[@Stabby__]

Those automatic timers are awesome, good heads up on info my dude👍

[@doncodman913]

. Usually tank is unpainted inside and straight from 1st use the moisture will attack . Even after just 40 minutes use , when you drain the tank the water will come out brown. Just because you've drained it ....it is still wet inside. Get a piece of mild steel leave cold water on it for 30 mins and see what it does to the surface.

[@michaelhall7921]

Dead right...... any coat that keeps the water off it is better practice.... We always said abou the cars in the Uk 50 years + ago if it's not protected from the water it will rot. The thinnest coat of oil does the job? In my case 2 coats of red oxide to the whole of my new cyls..... We'll have to see what transpires later?

[@MrHarleyreinke]

What safety features did they disable? I've had a reserve tank that's an old army surplus tank. Shits over 60 years old. It's common sense to drain the tank once in awhile.

[@garylangley4502]

The smaller compressor has a drain valve that is not on the bottom, so it needs to be tipped to the side to drain it. Make a rocket stove out of the old tank, or a waste oil heater.

[@javaman2883]

That's become very common for those small/portable compressors in the past 10 years. They also stamp the date to remove from service after, it's like 6-10 years from manufacture.

[@stuarthelliwell6784]

It would be a good idea to invest in an ultrasonic tester like what we used to use when inspecting industrial steel chimneys as a steeplejack and that was nearly ten years ago I'd expect them to have come right down in price these days,, the last one I had to replace after dropping it around 150 ft from a chimney only cost me around £200 ten years ago

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Yeah that would be a nice device to have. I'll have to look into them

[@Eatherbreather]

I found the drain valve location of the bottom of the tank to be very inconvenient and in being so located much more prone to being ignored. Getting water in my compressed air is annoying as well as dangerous for the tank. To help with with this I removed the drain valve and replaced it with a straight through fitting. To this I attached a length of compressed air hose. In the middle of this hose I put a stainless steel ball valve. This valve resists rust, the water pools in the hose (which cannot rust) and the tank gets drained daily/weekly very easily. When I drain the tank I only get water coming out and not a hint of rust.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Yeah that's a good call! Automatic drain valve is a really good option as well

[@javaman2883]

Just replace that dinky little valve with an elbow fitting and a section of pipe with a ball valve at the edge of the tank (where the automatic valve is in the video). Then it's easy to see it and remember to open it, and you can see the color of what comes out.

[@chrisharris1419]

This why all industrial large compressors have auto drain selenoid systems, along with water filters on the discharge lines...if your getting alot of water on your filter...which it's main function is to keep water out of other machines and tools...then you also know you have a problem with your auto drain system. Usually the timer will go bad. On a regular home small tank you should at minimum have a water filter on. Read instructions to place it correctly in line, also date your tank when you started using it on the outside.

[@denny3161]

yup.....think im gonna ditch 4 or 5of them....used to be the daily drain guy now the lazy guy! watching these yt explosions got me good!!

[@bobweiram6321]

A small tank can be as deadly or deadlier as a large tank with the same PSI. A large tank has more mass and surface area absorb a rupture, whereas a smaller one has less, creating fragments that can be projected with higher velocities.

[@georgestyer2153]

Every..that is Every tank should be fitted with a safety valve (blow off valve) set 20% above operating pressure... but just like a hot water boliler system safety valves are there for your safety... You could, as I do install 2 of them,

[@Daveunruh]

You can just be like me, and get an inline valve and crack it to a slight hiss all the time. It’s constantly draining, and after a couple days, I check on it to make sure oil/water crud didn’t clog it up.

[@stevecarter529]

Good desription of a zero loss drain, I think you would need a screen/ filter before the drain to protect the ball/NRV. On most recievers the end plates are thicker than the rolled middle. because of the amount of condensate there. Looking at the inside of the reciever I could not be sure if it was wellded on the inside, if so it would indicate a better quality reciever. There are tools on the market that can measure the thickness of the steel. Beware of cheap imports, talking to insurance inspectors in the UK they will condem these even from new becaise they cannot look inside, no 2" bsp bungs in the ends or sides. I have 30 plus years as a compressor engineer so hope this helps.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Thanks man that means a lot coming from a compressor engineer. I didn't have any idea how it worked when I first saw it but after taking it apart and learning its inner workings I was blown away by it's genius design. If I remember correctly it did have a small screen on the inlet side of it. I decided to go with the powered Auto drain because it seems like a more reliable design to me. I appreciate you adding some useful information in your comment. Thank you

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

And yeah that little stainless tank that looked to have a TIG weld on it is definitely high quality stuff

[@stevecarter529]

@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I prefer the ETD type drain. The zero loss was brought in to keep the woke eco lovies who want to save the world. the extra power used to run the compressor and operate the drain are just about zero.

[@stevecarter529]

@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Made by the god knows how many, machine TIGed. Small size and material means a thiner material can be used.

[@sergeantseven4240]

I have a smaller compressor but right in the owners manual it clearly states that draining the tank should be done whenever the compressor is not in use... If its not in service it shouldn't have pressure and it should be drained. I know for larger compressors that's easier said than done.I'm curious if there is any way to dry the air coming in to the compressor to prevent moisture build up in the tank and the compressor.

[@PeterB12345]

There is... disconnect the line coming out of the pump (going to your tank) and run it through an automotive oil cooler (to cool it down) and then through a water trap (which works only with cool, humid air) before letting it get into your tank. There's plenty of videos here on youtube of folks doing that to combat moisture in the compressor. It'll prolong the life expectancy of the compressor by a lot.

[@PeterB12345]

Matter of fact, here you go: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmLQnaOJn5t1d8U

[@BeeRich33]

Shorten your blowoff line and make sure it has a steep slope so it drains itself post discharge.

[@TheSd1cko]

The measures you took were sensible and noteworthy, but alas, the tank you showed was nowhere near needing replacing.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Did you see the part 2 video where I cut the tank open?

[@javaman2883]

To avoid freezing in that drain line, increase the valve open time. Give it 5-10 seconds so that any water in the line is completely pushed out each time. I know people will say you're losing air that way, but is an extra few seconds of compressor run time every 45 minutes really an issue?

[@nicmaz37]

I would recommend putting a silica desiccant on the intake

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Yeah I've heard of guys doing that. Definitely good call

[@stewartmelzer939]

a lot of people don't want to drain it after use they dont want to be bothered with waiting for it to build up pressure i always drained the tank after every use

[@SaveAmerica-TRUMP2024]

I have been using the same air compressor for 17 years. I never leave it full of air. I immediately drain air tank when im done with it. Usually get a few drops of moisture, thats it.

[@laserfalcon]

Thank you for the video, I'm working on one at the moment and ready to run a camera inside to inspect.

[@laserfalcon]

Wonder why they don't put a coating on the inside?

[@charlesb7831]

I've always been wondering about this. I don't use my tank during the winter so I leave the drain valve open with no air in it , outside in a small shed. I always wonder if leaving it open or closed is better dur to watch build up or not so thats why I leave the valve open.

[@javaman2883]

When it's not in use the moisture won't be getting into it. If any residual does condense, then with the open valve it can drip out.

[@tribulationprepper787]

Drain valves are better than nothing BUT removing the water before it enters the tank is the only way I have seen to prevent the tank condensation and rust which affects the entire interior of the tank and not just the bottom of the tank where the excess water collects. Short of using a stainless steel tank, an air drier is your best bet. You can build one for cheap.

[@thelockpickinglebowski633]

I opened the valve after every use. No problems.

[@electroshed]

Damn, I was waiting for you to bypass all the safety devices, hardwire it to ON and set it in some remote location, filming the outcome ;-) Give it a good send off!

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Yeah that would have been good

[@h8GW]

Mythbusters did something similar enough. ...Then again, water heaters might have a little more oomph behind them.

[@rustyredemptions]

@@h8GW I saw that one, pretty impressive. And scary, since I had just had a runaway water heater that I got shut down before it exploded. Stayed hot enough for a shower for two days.

[@michaelhall7921]

You might be an electrician re your title--- always good for a laugh. My son a (heavy duty electrician) loved watching the video of the poor chap on the top of an 'Indian' train getting hold of the overhead wires which he said might have been 30K.... ouch. = immediately turned to a cinder with vapor/smoke issuing from his turban. Terrible - it pays to be careful and never ever get hold of a wire till you are quite sure it is carrying zero AMPS.

[@shoramirazu]

I purchased a Black Husky 20-gallon vertical air compressor from the marketplace yesterday. However, upon inspection, seller said the motor fan is broken. I've already ordered a replacement fan. The seller assured me that the compressor is less than 2 years old, despite the broken fan. He mentioned that it has been stored in my garage for about 8 months. He suggested that by replacing the fan and draining the water from the tank, it should operate like new. Is it acceptable for the water to have been sitting in the tank for approximately 9 months, considering the seller's claim that the compressor is less than 2 years old? It's my first time using an air compressor, and after watching this video, I'm a bit worried about the possibility of an explosion. 🙂

[@kenbarnes8958]

My tank is a 1948 Westinghouse 80 gal. I got it in 1977. - maybe it's time for it's first inspection. I don't think I've ever got as much as a quart of water out of it and I live in a humid area.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Yeah I would definitely take a peek. The larger tank especially older ones tend to be a lot thicker. That's a big tank to blow God forbid it ever fails though

[@phiksit]

Might be filled with piles of rust that keep it from draining?

[@michaelhall7921]

Strange what you say about little air in your receiver. I have seen no water at all in my old compressor after 50 years. It's in the garden shed and I've always asked everyone to not go in there when I'm using it. Changed it lately and will be interested to see in it re rust/rot. I might use it for a heater - but times getting short..... I'm upping the pressure 50 psi for a log splitter I've made so the newish Cyl has been coated inside!!!!! Belt and braces has always been my moto and stlli is at 81 & still welding(but not pin holed cylinders) I hasten to add.... good chap to admit a mistake = good advice never repair any cylinder that has shown any corrosion whatsoever.

[@r.rodriguez4991]

Don't despair when your air compressor tank is done. A grinder and a few welds later you have a nice little smoker.

[@matekochkoch]

I have to replace my compressor in near future. Is there any argument against giving the tank of the new a paint with rust-proofing paint from the inside?

[@michaelhall7921]

It is said that red oxide is not waterproof when it is waterproof. One chap said if it's coated with a good quality paint it's better than a bare tank...... A propane cylinder is tested to 450 psi....... But should not be used for air? A cylinder can be coated with red oxide by pouring it with a tiny bit of thinner to make it very flowable and then the last action when all the internal cylinder is known to be coated it is then tuned so that the bung on the dished end after all the cylinder is swilled if paint is seen on the last bung then the whole of the cylinder should be coated. drain excess paint thoroughly into a container for future coat/s. Too thick a coat is bad. Thin multiple coats is beneficial. Dry with a safe tube heater ( No sparks whatsoever) blown into the open bung. Thinners and the like are explosive in a confined space sorry to mention that but well worth heeding. BANG----you' re trying to avoid that at all cost =it must never happen. If dying a painted cylinder is carried out it may well be the very last one anyone dries, if it is done wrongly........Boom.

[@TheThomaswastaken]

It's mindblowing to hear you say you didn't empty the tanks of water for months. How did your tools handle that constant moisture? I've always kept my tank dry with daily purges, and then dripped tool oil into the pneumatics before each use. I don't remember ever having a pneumatic tool fail. How well did yours do with that wet air supply?

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Are you talking about the tanks at my work? We have a huge air dryer inline. So even when the compressor is full of water, it still removes all moisture.. I should have added that in the vid.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

And I've yet to have any air tools fail on me. I've broke a few, But not any moisture related failures.

[@TheThomaswastaken]

@@NoNonsenseKnowHow ok. That makes sense. With an inline drier, you're protecting the tools, just not the compressor tank itself. I suppose there should be some additive for compressor tanks to keep the inside from rusting.

[@gerardomedina333]

Boooooom!!!! Thank you for posting Mr. I will inspect it. Since now!!!!

[@MrSprintcat]

I have a tank from 1965. Still going 💪💪

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Yeah I believe that. Steel was cheaper and better quality back then. Thing is probably twice as thick as it has to be

[@ateamfan42]

@1:47 WOW! When I drain my tank, the most I see is a small dribble of water. Unbelievable that tank had so much water in it.

[@glasslinger]

In a dry climate area that is common especially if you don't use a lot of air to run the compressor a lot. But be sure it is not a clogged drain valve! It's best to remove the valve every few years to check it for rust crud buildup.

[@YouThinkAboutThis]

Alot of great information here. Mixed in with some fear porn. Your tank would have to be over 75% full off water then freeze to damage the tank. How many compressors are there vrs explosions? 1/10 000 000? Id be willing to bet those explosions had removed the relief valve and cranked up the switch. You could lower your pressure switch and install a lower pressure relief valve if you're scared. Tanks will leak 99.999% of the time from rust before exploding.

[@markchidester6239]

Where can you get a new tank? I haven't been able to find one that cost less than a new compressor. I have a 20 gallon 5hp Coleman that works great at 27 years old. Perfect for my garage. Love to find a vertical tank.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

I ran into the same darn problem. That's why I bought a new complete compressor. Did they separate video on it

[@greydog1104]

A comment on another video by a tank inspector says the life of the tank is based on number of fills, because it expands and contracts the steel.

[@SamuelVain]

Boy, those things and water heaters... When they go, Ka freaking blooey!

[@shockingguy]

Most of these horizontal tanks you see failing are cheap units made in China and they’re all almost feeling in the same place along the bottom seam. Your vertical tank is less likely to have a problem as the end caps are formed out of one piece with no welding down there unless you’re getting a lot of water up to the actual attachment weld joints I would think if you drain your tank often enough the bottom is fine on a tank like yours. That’s a much more robust piece of material than the cylinder wall of a tank laying on its bottom with the weld seam in the water.

[@alecball68]

Stay alive be smart new tank