Making an Aluminum Way Cover Part 1: Casting the Part in my Backyard Foundry

[@eosdelb]

My dad was a foundry man. I wish I had asked him questions about it before he died. Thanks for posting. takes me back.

[@VintageMachinery]

+Grady Bledsoe I know what you mean. Lots of things I would like to go back and talk to my grandfathers about. Glad that you enjoyed!

[@Abom79]

Awesome video Keith! It was great to see the step by step actions needed to mold and pour a casting like that. Very informative! Can't wait to see the new guard on the lathe. BTW, I did this same job with the Pacemaker, only mine was formed steel and welded. Thanks for sharing with us! Adam

[@lar0638]

I know right that's awesome brovo brovo bro 👏👏👏👏👏👏

[@eshabilnanacak]

Respect to this man.His job not easy.

[@swarfrat311]

Keith It always amazes me when you do foundry work. It must be a very rewarding art. You take a raw material, use fire (a basic "element") to make the material molten, then pour it into a mold that you also made. You are then given an item that requires your skill as a metal worker to finish to your desired requirements. Like any hobby, I can see how this could really be a lot of fun. The gratification comes from the part you have made and can put to use. I find it's as interesting and enjoyable to watch as anyone making something on a lathe or mill. Thanks for sharing! Have a good one! Dave

[@eliduttman315]

***** Keith, What you have for aluminum and brass is a darned good start. Other DIY molders use the same sort of setup, but have dual fuel burners. They get things going with propane and then switch to waste oil. It seems that oil burns hotter than propane and that melts the ferrous scrap. Obviously, you can't use a cast iron pot as the melting vessel. You need a crucible made from refractory material. Good luck. Eli D.

[@jtkilroy]

***** Hey Keith, I'd love to exchange info with you on waste oil, I am interested in building a waste oil furnace as well. That seems to be the cheapest way to get to iron melting temp at home.

[@jtkilroy]

That would be great. I got started down this path when someone gave me a copy of the Artful Bodgers waste oil furnace book, pretty much gives you an A to Z how to.

[@sparkyprojects]

What about lifting cast iron parts with strong magnets, something like the welders positioning magnets maybe

[@prinzeugenvansovoyen732]

loud speaker magnets also work great for stuff like this - but put a piece of foam or a sponge between the magnet and the cast so the magnet doesnt bang it

[@dumbo800]

@@prinzeugenvansovoyen732 He did mention movers, didn't he? That is what those magnets are often called and marketed as for commercial and industrial applications. The set I use for hobbing are branded as magnetic movers.

[@bdemaree]

I was thinking old school cb antenna.

[@hobbitreet]

Well done. Clearly this was not the first time you'd done this; thank you for investing your time to share with others.

[@ForYourConsideration]

Reminds me of enjoyable days in high school shop class. Thanks Keith.

[@Q_Branch]

Brings back memories, I used to love casting aluminium.. Thanks for posting the video.

[@rljzathras]

Never mind the part cooling down, it's pretty cool to have a railway line running into the workshop :-)

[@samuelkellogg9475]

i think that is a great part.. Myself never having cast anything tends to think that's a nice part. you know not everyone can do it.. thanks for your work on this vintage machine channel.

[@mattweiers6226]

Thanks for the video Keith! Other ways to remove patterns from the sand are 1. place the bottom board against the pattern on the drag, flip it over on the bench and then lift the drag and the pattern will stay on the bench or 2. with a wooden pattern, flip the drag over and place two of the same size boards on the bench, rest both sides against the boards, say 1 or 2 inches high, and then tap the drag downward...the pattern will fall out perfectly vertically that way. I sometimes have more luck with that than draw spikes or threaded spikes because it's hard to get a perfectly vertical lift.

[@BrooksideFarmBarreMA]

If you have the ability, pre-heat the mold in an oven at 450-500F for an hour or two. It helps alleviate the cooling on thinner cross-sections.

[@bcbloc02]

I love the casting work! I have been fascinated with blast furnaces and iron since I went to the Sloss furnaces in Birmingham Al with my dad as a kid. At the time he was working for US Steel there and that place was really neat too. Seeing those huge ladels of molten steel floating around, and all the rows of open hearth furnaces roaring like jet engines. It was an impressive place as a kid.

[@bobjimenez4464]

Great video Keith, remember that it's easier to cut excess material off than to put it on, no need to be worried about being perfect when removing the pattern on something like this. I like how you are able to do a little of everything in your shop, it looks fun but with plenty of challenges. Have a great day!

[@bobjimenez4464]

Keith, be thankful that your foundry work is what it is. Never discount your abilities, you are indeed the master of many aspects of manufacturing including some types of pattern making. Most people have never heard of a cope, drag or risers. Keep making the videos, you are also an excellent screen director, stunt man, writer, camera man and crew too. Most actors would end up chopping off a finger if they tried operating your horizontal mill...lol.

[@bobjimenez4464]

Keith, one thing I forgot to say. I am learning from your videos, Thank you for taking the time to teach me some of your manufacturing tricks.

[@bobjimenez4464]

Every morning I wake up with a cup of coffee while the Mrs is still sleeping and watch youtube videos. Yours are some of the best and it's a blast being able to hang out in your shop from a few thousand miles away.

[@Kenjinn13]

this video was very fun to watch, thank you

[@VintageMachinery]

+Josh_1313 Thanks!

[@mrt7152]

Nice working shop you have, couldn't help notice that there is an old train rails coming into your shop.

[@VintageMachinery]

I am doing this at the shop at the Georgia Museum of Agriculture. We can pull the museums steam locomotive into the shop to work on it.

[@mavoside]

Just wondering if a couple of rare earth magnets would have helped lift the cast iron from the sand mound? Love your videos and the restoration work you do!

[@davidstelter2391]

I had the same thought - a big lift magnet or two, maybe a hoist above to help with a stable, straight lift.

[@charlesschaefer3659]

Why not use magnets to get the cast iron part out?

[@mduvigneaud]

Keith, as always, great video. I appreciate you taking the time to show and explain what you are doing and why. Great stuff! Like James Rawlings, I was thinking that a couple magnets would be helpful for lifting the original casting out of the mold. Perhaps an inexpensive indicator mag base or two.

[@bloodknottrevelian3396]

My father was a non ferrous moulder and I often visited him at the foundry. To see you blowing the loose sand off of the mould and out of the ways reminded me that one of the components in Dad’s sparse toolkit was a pair of bellows. To assist with removing your heavy pattern you could have scooped out a couple sacrificial detents on the back side (from you) to allow you to get under the pattern as you did in the two ways on the front of the pattern. It would have been interesting to see the comparison of the pattern and the casting to show the shrinkage. From memory Dad used to quote ¼” in a foot?

[@richardsurber8226]

Totally amazing. I had no idea you could make an aluminium part from a cast iron part by casting in your shop

[@HotelPapa100]

I've done a little bit of aluminium casting myself during my apprenticeship in an experienced casting shop. What we did differently then: The casting gates would be cut as thin, wide slots with the lancet, tapered, thicker at the flow channel, narrower at the actual gate. This makes for quieter flow and easier cleanup. We'd also manually dig a pouring bowl next to the spout, with an overflow edge. Makes it easier to pour, and again, quieter flow. What we'd also usually have, but not on a part like this, which has very even thickness: A so called riser, a vent with large cross section over the thickest portion of the part. This would remain liquid the longest, along with the thick portion, and feed liquid metal in there as it was solidifying and shrinking, thus avoiding voids.

[@VintageMachinery]

+HotelPapa100 Thanks for the tips. I have a lot to lean to get better at casting. I don't have the advantage of having someone experienced to learn from in person.

[@donhalley5622]

My only casting experience is with bullets, but I was wondering if during the process, you (like me) felt a connection with all the folks throughout history that employed essentially the same techniques to make things such as weapons, tools, and jewelry. This is ancient stuff! I was prepared for a much rougher outcome, and was very impressed with what you were able to achieve. I'm looking forward to the next steps and finally, seeing it mounted. Very nice work, and thanks for sharing.

[@mclarpet]

Excellent video Keith. Your riser worked a treat. I have to laugh at your choice of foundry boots - speaking from experience, aluminium burns are no joke.

[@toolguy6057]

Great video! I was thinking that a neodymium magnet might be what you need to pull those heavy cast iron pieces straight from the mold. Thanks for sharing.

[@robroysyd]

Indeed and you can get them with convenient hooks on them.

[@nostrings1269]

There is a railroad track going through your shop...that is awesome!

[@nostrings1269]

Great video btw. The part looked good to me

[@VintageMachinery]

+Jeff Shilts The shop is at the Georgia Museum of Agriculture in the shop where we work on the museum steam locomotive. Hence the need for railroad tracks in the shop!

[@nostrings1269]

Very cool! I love those old steam locomotives. I'll have to visit the museum some day.

[@alaster134]

This was a very good, helpful, and informative video. Thank you for making it :)

[@VintageMachinery]

alaster134 And Thank YOU for taking the time to watch!

[@fatibazi137]

Keith Well done thank you for video I love your shop

[@VintageMachinery]

Thank you!

[@halnywiatr]

When replicating a casting in aluminum, cover as many of the original’s surfaces as practicable with heavy shelving paper. This accomplishes two things: The +/- 25 mil thickness makes up for some of the shrinkage; and, the smoother surface lessens the roughness of a casting-of-a-casting. Also, for parts that are to be machined, those areas should be built-up with more layers or even (dare I say) duct tape to allow for the sacrificial machining volume.

[@VintageMachinery]

halnywiatr Agreed - however, in this case, the added shrinkage was not an issue so I did not bother building up any surfaces. I have used similar tricks many times on other projects.

[@raypsi1]

aluminum shrinkage is like 0.5% to 1% for pure Al that piece looks really close from what you say you had less than 0.5% shrinkage very good tyvm for sharing gr8 job tyvm for the info on use of a gate to increase the flow into the mould

[@jondoes8222]

I made a fire brick beehive shaped furnace last summer. It worked real well and this spring I am going to concrete the outside and make it permanent. I use hard wood to fire my furnace and use cast iron kettle to melt in. My furnace can take a 5 gallon melting pot.

[@Vinyl389]

But can it melt that much metal, chances are no.

[@TaeKenDo]

To lift the cast iron or any ferrous metal, you could make a handle with rare earth magnets built in. There are some sold with holes in the middle to receive screws. Just a thought :)

[@robertlakatus4412]

Also have a furnace with the cope and drage from high school a class of 1965. Bought the furnace. And tool that went with it at a school sale.

[@jusb1066]

miss this style of videos Kieth :hint hint !

[@HustleMuscleGhias]

A pair of powerful retrieval magnets does wonders for lifting large flat pieces from molds in my experiences.

[@YerluvinunclePete]

Use a magnet to lift out cast iron patterns. you can paint a plaster slurry on to make up for shrinkage and wash it off after.

[@jamesrawlings8493]

Keith, I noticed you didn't start with screening the sand against the part. Is that not necessary for a simple shape or was the sand prepared off camera. Since the pattern was cast iron, would some magnets have been helpful for removing it from the sand? I really enjoy your videos and explanations of the steps in your projects.

[@charles1379]

suggest using two magnetic stand bases to grip the cast iron to get it out of the mould

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Keith, I've seen how much it was difficult to remove the cast iron part, just a suggestion, if the cast iron was a magnetic type, you could use an set up with magnets to pull it out, just an idea hope that could help for future moldings. Good way of getting things done... Getter done! Cheers, Pierre

[@burtlade1705]

Good Job Keith! I'm watching a few videos in preparation for some casting projects this spring.( I'm in Minnesota) That's basically the way I would have done it. One thing I am going to do is make a screwdriver handle with wood screw threads on the end for removing wood pieces from the sand, maybe 2 of them. Also I can build up some wood patterns now for future use as I am going to do my casting outdoors. Thanks for the extra effort to make the video!

[@MrRUKidddingMe]

Thanks for making these two videos. I learned a lot, but the magnet trick is one I HAVE to remember! It seems you could you have built up the thin edges of the original pattern by 1/64th on each side (I find multiple strips of adhesive sheeting woks well) and compensated for shrinkage. Again, thanks

[@kenwolfe6093]

Keith, once again a great video. I was wondering where you're at with the brass re-casting for the safe parts. I'm looking forward to more of the safe refurb. Ken

[@lvd2001]

Keith - You are my hero

[@raincoast2396]

Must have been another hot day. What was the ambient air temp when you poured? I could see by your shirt that you must have lost a lot of body liquid. Take care and stay hydrated. Hope you had plenty of water or iced tea. Looking forward to part two.

[@hadacommodore]

Hi Keith, just an idea for next time you are using a cast iron part for a pattern and you need to remove it from the mould, how about some strong welding magnets and using them as handles to lift the part out.

[@specialized29er86]

Them the exactly same casting boxes from 40 years ago when I did my moulders apprenticeship.

[@whatsnext5257]

You can make a handler with strong neodymium magnets to lift the pattern from the sand.

[@talp2976]

BEST YT CHANNEL EVER!

[@Lierofox]

Don't feel too bad about not thinking about magnets Keith, sometimes in the shop people just become stricken with a sudden case of "The Dumbs." Happens to me all the time. Probably a few of the magnets like the ones that are used on the base of dial indicator stands would be useful for parts like that, you'd have no force pulling it until you were good and ready to turn them on and do an even lift, whereas just a strong permanent magnet might risk pulling up before you're ready as you're just lowering it down to the pattern.

[@dltd7612]

u got train tracks in ur backyard ... now how cool is that

[@VintageMachinery]

+D Ltd That is at the Georgia Museum of Agriculture where I shot this particular video.

[@charlesmarlin6632]

Always fun viewing your videos!! :-)

[@muh1h1]

Maybe a big neodynium Magnet would have helped with the lifting! :)

[@Jimmy-fl8vp]

That's what I was thinking

[@johnedwards1968]

Was thinking exactly the same thing

[@aq-qc1xu]

नमस्ते

[@magneticatastrophy]

I know everybody and his brother has suggested magnets, but I suggest you look into a lifting magnet. They make them in different sizes and the magnetism turns on or off with a lever. I have one good for about 700 pounds that comes in handy all the time with lifting things. I might have paid $250 for it on the bay and it is worth every penny.

[@LCRAMBOR1]

Love your videos man.

[@VintageMachinery]

+LCRAMBOR1 Thank you!

[@atlek1328]

Hello, thanks a lot for the video, I loved it, I learned a lot. I wished that I knew that for four-five years ago, i had a lot of aluminium-junk which I had to throw. And it's cheaper to recycle instead of buying new, as I usually needs aluminum for machining. I didn't think of the magnets either, so you're not alone. :)

[@rustyolson79]

Stellar video!

[@VintageMachinery]

Grain Train Thank you!

[@alexabadi7458]

very instructive, thank you.the fast motion music is great.

[@VintageMachinery]

+Alex Abadi Thank you!

[@Pyro19903]

wow great job almost perfect cast I do mini projects with lost foam I learned a bit more thank you

[@VintageMachinery]

Scott Carroll Thanks Scott - I have not tried lost foam yet, but that is on my list of things to try one of these days....

[@mheermance]

This was really interesting to watch. Thanks for posting it.

[@TaskMaster1983]

Use a magnet to remove cast iron parts from molds. Neodymium magnets would be more than strong enough. Could also make a simple electromagnet to use to lift the parts out of the sand casting.

[@1NRG24Seven]

I wonder if a couple of large strong magnets would have been useful to grab that big iron piece out of the sand with?

[@PLINKER]

Keith, still interested in your propane torch used here, maybe your sand mix percentages, or did you get it premixed? Where you were able to get your flask, would a wooden one work?

[@namele55777]

you have train tracks in your backyard? THAT'S SO COOL.

[@VintageMachinery]

+namele55777 That was shot in the shop at the Georgia Museum of Agriculture in Tifton, GA. They do have RR tracks running through the shop so that they can pull the steam locomotives in to work on them!

[@MikeDittmanmachining]

Hey Keith, Awesome video. I feel like a jack wagon giving you advise being you are so knowledgeable but if the part is magnetic there are the magnetic welding clamps from stronghand tools at a reasonable price that have up to 200 lbs (I think) grip you might be able to use to remove the part from the mold. Thanks again for all the awesome videos. Mike

[@paulstuartwilson485]

So, everyone else has mentioned that a magnet would help. I am more of a gravity fan, myself. Carefully but swiftly invert it and it should fall straight out. The only drawback is that it usually requires two people who are not newbies at it.

[@jabidwell]

Keith, Lifting the pattern/original part, could you use magnets or even electromagnets to attach to the part thus having something to grab hold of, just a thought. John

[@erickvond6825]

You know, with the pattern being cast iron you could use a powerful magnet to lift it out. Something like an old speaker magnet or a neodymium fishing magnet would work.

[@pablopicasso6699]

Very good video, I am a jeweller, I use a similar process to cast Gold/Silver rings, and various other items etc. Do you make your own casting sand? I personally found it to be to expensive, even though it is reusable for a certain amount of time. It is expensive to keep buying the ultra fine oiled casting sand which is required for small or intricate parts, so I now make my own, can be time consuming to make it high grade but it saves a lot of money overall.

[@thomasstone1363]

What's your recipe for jewellery grade casting sand if I may ask? I'm a jeweller and use a lot of delft clay for casting, but would look at cheaper alternatives.

[@cpitarre]

when I use metal Patterns , I use a set of magnets to lift it out , saves a lot of trouble and repairs . Hope this helps .....

[@st_us]

I would like to know if casting caused any shrinkage and how did you reduce it ?

[@st_us]

***** Thanks for clarifying :)

[@leyterQ]

+ucsm zKeith Rq ycker ésa

[@leyterQ]

*****

[@powaybob]

Great stuff Keith! I think a couple of magnetic indicator bases would have made good handles to pull the pattern out.

[@verdatum]

Did the original piece still have the draft on it or was it machined square? If it was square, I'm amazed at how cleanly that piece lifted out.

[@rickyretic]

You could attach a couple of magnets to the pattern to grip it and remove it with.

[@FreddeNilsson1980]

I work with computers all day, i just wish i was i did something like this instead. Cool stuff man!

[@VintageMachinery]

+Ironhead Harley I spend my fair share of time in front of a monitor as well, but I would go crazy if I had to do it all day long every day!

[@12345NoNamesLeft]

I think if you needed it to be a better casting, you could have built up shrinkage allowance and draft with bondo, or double sided tape and cardboard /wood strips/masking tape , stuff like that.

[@44magsw]

***** If you had a lot of wax around, you can dip the part in wax a couple of times then ram it up and the wax will take care of the shrinkage! Something to try next time! I've done it 2 or 3 times with good results! Jeff

[@bobjimenez4464]

I like your thinking, keep it simple and no job is complete without bondo and duct tape...seriously, the stuff works fine for what Keith is doing as far as foundry work goes. The machining is a different story.

[@roberthorner8494]

IT HAS TO REWARDING WHEN YOU TAKE IT OUT OF THE SAND. GREAT JOB

[@adracamas]

could you possibly coat it in something water salable before you make the sand blank to compensate for shrinkage?

[@VintageMachinery]

+adracamas I have built up existing parts with all kinds of material to account for some shrinkage on larger items. But it is somewhat of a pain and for this project, a little shrinkage really does not matter.

[@adracamas]

10-4 that. Just curious.

[@Flatos90]

11:42 Could you use magnet and some eletricity (cast iron has otherwise some problems with that)?

[@xxxxzorroxxxx]

What type of sand you use. Thanks great video..

[@VintageMachinery]

It is called "Petrobond" but that is more a type rather than a brand.

[@none5355melvinMadigan]

Very good video it was very helpful

[@VintageMachinery]

Melvin Madigan Thank you!

[@gigicaly]

good informative video. I do have a question and that is about the casting sand. What kind of sand is it and can it be reused?

[@VintageMachinery]

+gigicaly It is a mixture of sand, a special kind of clay and oil. It can be bought under the name "Petrobond" or you can find recipes online to mix your own. It can be used over and over again, but might need to have some fresh oil added back in from time to time.

[@gigicaly]

Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org cool thank you for the reply.

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

would some large magnets draw that cast iron part out easier ?? like neo magnets .. Just a thought .. Thanks again Keith

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

That's ok man ... God bless ya .. And thanks for the great vids ..

[@geckoproductions4128]

do you have a video on how you made your furnace? thanks

[@davered27]

Great video thanks. Why did you use a dowel for the vent but cut a hole with a tube for the gate? I'm sure there's a good reason but I can't see it.

[@stevenpruitt4763]

you can use magnets for helping get the pattern out maybe.

[@TommieDuhWeirdo]

Hi, I'd be grateful if anyone can answer my question. Is there any mold that can withstand molten metal? I want to make a mold out of a key that I have, like something out of silicone or something that is malleable, but I know silicone isn't strong enough to withstand molten metal. Any suggestions? I don't need a large amount, just enough to make one single key.

[@TommieDuhWeirdo]

***** Thanks! I'll keep looking around, I'll leave the lost wax casting as the alternative because that would involve more steps.

[@timzhot]

You needed a good strong magnet to lift it out ,, cheers .Tim.

[@repalmore]

I wonder if Windy Hill Foundry would like to make a video with you casting some parts. Just a thought.

[@deanerichardson8930]

I noticed you didn't sift your first layer of sand onto your pattern, how come?

[@Mad.Man.Marine]

Deane Richardson I'm no casting expert by any means. But my best guess would be. It's only really necessary with intricate parts. With this part being so flat and simple, I would think the sand will lay down on it nicely without sifting. Good question though.

[@shortribs11]

Good job, would like to know how you mix your sand??? I'm using oil and don't like the way it packs. I'm a newbie when it comes to mixing. Any suggestions?

[@chemech]

It's been a while since I looked into doing some casting, but if I recall correctly, one common additive to floor sand is wood flour - which I take to be a super-fine sawdust - in order to get the porosity & plasticity right. A little internet searching on foundry sands - green sand, floor sand - will give you some good ideas... Eric

[@shortribs11]

chemech Thanks I'll do that.

[@shortribs11]

***** Thanks Keith I will get some Petrobond keep up the good work.

[@honeybunchickens]

your a great teacher thank you

[@abtechcncwoodworking3459]

Love the videos of repairing old machines. I just want to know the source of the 2 music sound tracks on this video. Thanks..

[@VintageMachinery]

ABtech CNC Woodworking The music came from MelodyLoops.com. I don't remember the names of the tracks, but most of them are by an artist named Joel Hunger.

[@bjmacgable]

Beaucoup de savoir-faire. Bravo!

[@jstephenallington8431]

Next time, place two pieces of wire, (one for each end) under the pattern(or part) and bend them up parallel to the sides. Pack the sand, flip over, and use the wire to pull the pattern out. It'll leave you a couple of small lines to grind off, but that shouldn't be an issue.

[@BuickDoc]

Have you thought of using magnets, such as indicator magnetic bases, to remove the cast iron from the mould?

[@joenuzz1]

Loved your video , as I was watching the section were you were removing the cast iron original cover,I bet using some magnets welders use ( the ones with handles ) would have worked fine to remove that cover.

[@railroadman57]

very nice work i enjoyed this video .

[@markdaniel8740]

I live your videos. Still looking forward to your foundry. The sono tube will work of you fill the inside with sand or gravel to press outward. Even pack it tight, the tube will not fail from too much pressure out. When you fill the outside, you will have plenty resistance. Meet up the good work.

[@VintageMachinery]

Mark Daniel I purchased some new refractory the other week but have not had a chance to work on the new furnace yet. It is on the list......

[@dieseldoctor4904]

great video did you make your furnace

[@VintageMachinery]

+diesel doctor Yes, I made that furnace several years ago and I am currently in the process of making a new one that will be greatly improved. There is a series of videos on that project to date but it is not quite yet finished as of now.

[@CLAUDIOGRASSIASTRArc]

when aluminum cools, it withdraws then the copy should be a little 'smaller, is not it a problem?

[@VintageMachinery]

CLAUDIO GRASSI Yes, you get shrinkage on any part that you cast. In this case, the cover was not fitting anything perfectly - just covering an opening, so the little bit of shrinkage that I got was not an issue. When it is, I have to add some extra material to the original part to compensate. I talk about shrink factors in some of my pattern making videos.

[@CLAUDIOGRASSIASTRArc]

Thanks Keith, it is what I thought ... I follow your work often but being Italian sometimes escapes me something of your speeches ... I have yet to get used to understand everything ... I still learned a lot and I am also about to start a new adventure with aluminum castings, soon I will shoot some video