Making an Aluminum Way Cover Part 1: Casting the Part in my Backyard Foundry

Casting an aluminum copy of the missing way cover for the Georgia Museum of Agriculture's Lodge & Shipley lathe using an original cast iron cover as a pattern.

[@eosdelb]

My dad was a foundry man. I wish I had asked him questions about it before he died. Thanks for posting. takes me back.

[@VintageMachinery]

+Grady Bledsoe I know what you mean. Lots of things I would like to go back and talk to my grandfathers about. Glad that you enjoyed!

[@hobbitreet]

Well done. Clearly this was not the first time you'd done this; thank you for investing your time to share with others.

[@bcbloc02]

I love the casting work! I have been fascinated with blast furnaces and iron since I went to the Sloss furnaces in Birmingham Al with my dad as a kid. At the time he was working for US Steel there and that place was really neat too. Seeing those huge ladels of molten steel floating around, and all the rows of open hearth furnaces roaring like jet engines. It was an impressive place as a kid.

[@Q_Branch]

Brings back memories, I used to love casting aluminium.. Thanks for posting the video.

[@samuelkellogg9475]

i think that is a great part.. Myself never having cast anything tends to think that's a nice part. you know not everyone can do it.. thanks for your work on this vintage machine channel.

[@mclarpet]

Excellent video Keith. Your riser worked a treat. I have to laugh at your choice of foundry boots - speaking from experience, aluminium burns are no joke.

[@mattweiers6226]

Thanks for the video Keith! Other ways to remove patterns from the sand are 1. place the bottom board against the pattern on the drag, flip it over on the bench and then lift the drag and the pattern will stay on the bench or 2. with a wooden pattern, flip the drag over and place two of the same size boards on the bench, rest both sides against the boards, say 1 or 2 inches high, and then tap the drag downward...the pattern will fall out perfectly vertically that way. I sometimes have more luck with that than draw spikes or threaded spikes because it's hard to get a perfectly vertical lift.

[@Kenjinn13]

this video was very fun to watch, thank you

[@VintageMachinery]

+Josh_1313 Thanks!

[@donhalley5622]

My only casting experience is with bullets, but I was wondering if during the process, you (like me) felt a connection with all the folks throughout history that employed essentially the same techniques to make things such as weapons, tools, and jewelry. This is ancient stuff! I was prepared for a much rougher outcome, and was very impressed with what you were able to achieve. I'm looking forward to the next steps and finally, seeing it mounted. Very nice work, and thanks for sharing.

[@charlesschaefer3659]

Why not use magnets to get the cast iron part out?

[@sparkyprojects]

What about lifting cast iron parts with strong magnets, something like the welders positioning magnets maybe

[@prinzeugenvansovoyen732]

loud speaker magnets also work great for stuff like this - but put a piece of foam or a sponge between the magnet and the cast so the magnet doesnt bang it

[@dumbo800]

@@prinzeugenvansovoyen732 He did mention movers, didn't he? That is what those magnets are often called and marketed as for commercial and industrial applications. The set I use for hobbing are branded as magnetic movers.

[@bdemaree]

I was thinking old school cb antenna.

[@fatibazi137]

Keith Well done thank you for video I love your shop

[@VintageMachinery]

Thank you!

[@TaeKenDo]

To lift the cast iron or any ferrous metal, you could make a handle with rare earth magnets built in. There are some sold with holes in the middle to receive screws. Just a thought :)

[@jondoes8222]

I made a fire brick beehive shaped furnace last summer. It worked real well and this spring I am going to concrete the outside and make it permanent. I use hard wood to fire my furnace and use cast iron kettle to melt in. My furnace can take a 5 gallon melting pot.

[@ians.2941]

But can it melt that much metal, chances are no.

[@burtlade1705]

Good Job Keith! I'm watching a few videos in preparation for some casting projects this spring.( I'm in Minnesota) That's basically the way I would have done it. One thing I am going to do is make a screwdriver handle with wood screw threads on the end for removing wood pieces from the sand, maybe 2 of them. Also I can build up some wood patterns now for future use as I am going to do my casting outdoors. Thanks for the extra effort to make the video!

[@mheermance]

This was really interesting to watch. Thanks for posting it.

[@muh1h1]

Maybe a big neodynium Magnet would have helped with the lifting! :)

[@Jimmy-fl8vp]

That's what I was thinking

[@johnedwards1968]

Was thinking exactly the same thing

[@aq-qc1xu]

नमस्ते

[@YerluvinunclePete]

Use a magnet to lift out cast iron patterns. you can paint a plaster slurry on to make up for shrinkage and wash it off after.

[@charles1379]

suggest using two magnetic stand bases to grip the cast iron to get it out of the mould

[@MrRUKidddingMe]

Thanks for making these two videos. I learned a lot, but the magnet trick is one I HAVE to remember! It seems you could you have built up the thin edges of the original pattern by 1/64th on each side (I find multiple strips of adhesive sheeting woks well) and compensated for shrinkage. Again, thanks

[@charlesmarlin6632]

Always fun viewing your videos!! :-)

[@1NRG24Seven]

I wonder if a couple of large strong magnets would have been useful to grab that big iron piece out of the sand with?

[@jabidwell]

Keith, Lifting the pattern/original part, could you use magnets or even electromagnets to attach to the part thus having something to grab hold of, just a thought. John

[@Pyro19903]

wow great job almost perfect cast I do mini projects with lost foam I learned a bit more thank you

[@VintageMachinery]

Scott Carroll Thanks Scott - I have not tried lost foam yet, but that is on my list of things to try one of these days....

[@davered27]

Great video thanks. Why did you use a dowel for the vent but cut a hole with a tube for the gate? I'm sure there's a good reason but I can't see it.

[@roberthorner8494]

IT HAS TO REWARDING WHEN YOU TAKE IT OUT OF THE SAND. GREAT JOB

[@dicksargent3582]

Keith a large magnet, like the one HF sells will be a big help in removing a cast iron pattern from a mold next time. :)

[@oudijzergek]

Or even a pair of mag-bases....

[@PLINKER]

Keith, still interested in your propane torch used here, maybe your sand mix percentages, or did you get it premixed? Where you were able to get your flask, would a wooden one work?

[@pablopicasso6699]

Very good video, I am a jeweller, I use a similar process to cast Gold/Silver rings, and various other items etc. Do you make your own casting sand? I personally found it to be to expensive, even though it is reusable for a certain amount of time. It is expensive to keep buying the ultra fine oiled casting sand which is required for small or intricate parts, so I now make my own, can be time consuming to make it high grade but it saves a lot of money overall.

[@thomasstone1363]

What's your recipe for jewellery grade casting sand if I may ask? I'm a jeweller and use a lot of delft clay for casting, but would look at cheaper alternatives.

[@repalmore]

I wonder if Windy Hill Foundry would like to make a video with you casting some parts. Just a thought.

[@markdaniel8740]

I live your videos. Still looking forward to your foundry. The sono tube will work of you fill the inside with sand or gravel to press outward. Even pack it tight, the tube will not fail from too much pressure out. When you fill the outside, you will have plenty resistance. Meet up the good work.

[@VintageMachinery]

Mark Daniel I purchased some new refractory the other week but have not had a chance to work on the new furnace yet. It is on the list......

[@talp2976]

BEST YT CHANNEL EVER!

[@erickvond6825]

You know, with the pattern being cast iron you could use a powerful magnet to lift it out. Something like an old speaker magnet or a neodymium fishing magnet would work.

[@rustyolson79]

Stellar video!

[@VintageMachinery]

Grain Train Thank you!

[@chadjeanes4708]

Is the sand/clay you use ordered, or dug locally? It seems to very good at retaining it's form without being cooked or mixed with bonding agent. Thanks for any insight you can give.

[@bjmacgable]

Beaucoup de savoir-faire. Bravo!

[@CompEdgeX2013]

Looked pretty warm there! Came out pretty decent considering. Question: Why not use the original to construct a wooden pattern? Colin ;-)

[@CompEdgeX2013]

I was thinking pattern more for the ease of ramming it up but you did getter done pretty good as it was . ;-) Like to see more casting..

[@timzhot]

You needed a good strong magnet to lift it out ,, cheers .Tim.

[@cpitarre]

when I use metal Patterns , I use a set of magnets to lift it out , saves a lot of trouble and repairs . Hope this helps .....

[@kejay74]

Hey Keith! @18:00 Wow, wouldn't one of those "magnet fishing" magnets be great right about now! LOL Ken

[@RLNTEX]

Pretty good job. I jot to tell you I had my doubts but it looks good.

[@MaturePatriot]

You don't start with a mulled sand? Could you have used magnetic bases to remove the pattern? I saw your answer on the screen. LOL Was that just table salt? Was that cast iron cornbread pans for ingot making?

[@justovision]

Big magnet seems useful for pulling the pattern/buck?

[@jermmcnasty420]

where do you live? you have what looks to be ore cart tracks coming into your garage. I would definitely build a go cart to travel those tracks.

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

would some large magnets draw that cast iron part out easier ?? like neo magnets .. Just a thought .. Thanks again Keith

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

That's ok man ... God bless ya .. And thanks for the great vids ..

[@dickiemint3620]

Very nice video .. Been a moulder/coremaker for 27 years now & used to make castings in greensand many years ago .. may i be so bold as to offer you a couple of tips .... if using an old part instead of a pattern sometimes an idea to drill & thread tap a couple of holes on the side that is going to be in cope half,then to remove part from mould you just need to screw in a couple of bolts ... also not too heavy on the parting powder as this can give a poor surface finish on casting ..... first layer of sand onto pattern should be put through a sieve .... and the runner bar is always better in the cope half & the ingates cut into the drag half,in theory this keeps any metal impurities in the runner bar & allows clean metal through the ingates .... one last thing .. a pair of old fashioned wooden/leather bellows are ideal for blowing any loose sand from mould prior to closing ..... hope this helps

[@dickiemint3620]

***** glad i could be of assistance Keith .... find it strange (but in a nice way) that people have as a hobby & find so interesting something i have done for 40+ hours a week for many years & just take for granted now .... I have worked in 4 foundries in total & made things from model steam engine parts up to 35 tonne marine engines and if I'm honest I was always the happiest in my work as a 19 year old making castings the same way that you do in your back yard.

[@TIMLASHLEY]

great job

[@melgross]

This shrinkage problem was occurring when Taiwan first began making copies of American woodworking equipment in the 1970s. They would do what Keith is doing, but would make the parts from iron as was used in the originals. The copies worked just fine, depending on the quality level any particular manufacturer worked to. But to the surprise if people who bought them and then bought spare parts or accessories here, they wouldn’t fit. Surprise! Later, as their manufacturing got better, they stopped copying and did their own designs. You really have to be careful with more than one gate when making thin, wide parts such as this. If the mold is too cold, the edges of the metal, as they move towards each other, can cool to the point where there is a distinct line marking where they met. Sometimes they don’t entirely meld together as the edges are too cool and the oxidation on those edges (particularly with aluminum) prevents a true melding of those edges, resulting in a weak part there.

[@gigicaly]

good informative video. I do have a question and that is about the casting sand. What kind of sand is it and can it be reused?

[@VintageMachinery]

+gigicaly It is a mixture of sand, a special kind of clay and oil. It can be bought under the name "Petrobond" or you can find recipes online to mix your own. It can be used over and over again, but might need to have some fresh oil added back in from time to time.

[@gigicaly]

Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org cool thank you for the reply.

[@shortribs11]

Good job, would like to know how you mix your sand??? I'm using oil and don't like the way it packs. I'm a newbie when it comes to mixing. Any suggestions?

[@chemech]

It's been a while since I looked into doing some casting, but if I recall correctly, one common additive to floor sand is wood flour - which I take to be a super-fine sawdust - in order to get the porosity & plasticity right. A little internet searching on foundry sands - green sand, floor sand - will give you some good ideas... Eric

[@shortribs11]

chemech Thanks I'll do that.

[@shortribs11]

***** Thanks Keith I will get some Petrobond keep up the good work.

[@alaskankare]

I have watched a couple of videos about forging, and noticed that it seems no matter the size of the part, the box is always filled to the top. Is there a reason for this? Do you need a certain thickness of sand to help retain the heat to keep it from cooling too fast?

[@VintageMachinery]

+alaskankare I actually sometimes do not fill it to the top, depending on how high the pattern is sticking into the top mold. I like to have several inches of sand over the highest part of the pattern, but unless I am casting multiple parts or large parts where I might run short of molding sand, I generally just fill it up to be on the safe side.

[@HotelPapa100]

+alaskankare When you cast series of parts, the moulds are often stacked. That's one good reason to have the boxes filled to capacity. Also the frame heights are related to frame size. If you fill it to capacity, you can be pretty sure that the slab of sand is stable enough so it doesn't fall out under its own weight.

[@kevintheblacksmith]

Use magnets with handles to lift out iron parts

[@dajoko9028]

Wirklich sympathisch wirkender Typ!

[@poppypuppy5372]

Looks like hot work :)

[@TurboTurell]

cant you lift it up using a strong magnet?

[@leeh.4453]

Cool Looks like fun. "Rucker Iron Works?" Ayn Rand might write a novel about you. Question: What is dross? Where's it come from? I never understood it, even when I was helping my Dad melt lead for joining cast iron sewer lines. The new chucks of lead seem pure, and we used to leave the left overs right in the firepot.

[@tammwamm9818]

this video is awesome

[@VintageMachinery]

+Tamm Wamm Thank you!

[@flackyoue7483]

i was gonna say magnet but saw that annotation lol

[@pvtimberfaller]

You need a couple small Mag switches to pull the pattern.

[@dieseldoctor4904]

great video did you make your furnace

[@VintageMachinery]

+diesel doctor Yes, I made that furnace several years ago and I am currently in the process of making a new one that will be greatly improved. There is a series of videos on that project to date but it is not quite yet finished as of now.

[@xxxxzorroxxxx]

What type of sand you use. Thanks great video..

[@VintageMachinery]

It is called "Petrobond" but that is more a type rather than a brand.

[@bisholim5377]

Hi :). First of all I would like to Congratulate you for the Very Beautifull Video you have made and the fact that I am shore there are many people WHO learn alot from you like I did. Thank you Very much for that. I have 2 questions which I really Hope that you could help me with? I have a Compoundbow and I have been wanting to make a Copy of It. I would use Aluminium for the Razer and for the Cams Fiberglass. The Problem is that the Razer is not streat. It has a Bend to it, so it doesnt sit as it should like a flat pice. What would one do if the form is shapped. THank you (sry my bad spelling )

[@benyoumans9072]

Wouldnt a rare earth magnet assist in removing the cast iron pattern?

[@trevandevgaming7016]

umm. (rare) earth magnet. lol. almost impossible to find one. but that would work.

[@abtechcncwoodworking3459]

Love the videos of repairing old machines. I just want to know the source of the 2 music sound tracks on this video. Thanks..

[@VintageMachinery]

ABtech CNC Woodworking The music came from MelodyLoops.com. I don't remember the names of the tracks, but most of them are by an artist named Joel Hunger.

[@KeoweeChristopher1]

There must be something in our ancestors' genes! I've done aluminum casting for cannon carriage parts, and cannon balls. What is your sand recipe? Commercial, or homemade?

[@VintageMachinery]

+Chris Rucker I don't run into too many Rucker's out there! The sand is a commercial mix commonly sold as Petrobond.

[@keithrosenberg5486]

Get some strong magnets to grab the iron mold with.

[@Reese_Asher]

*You could've used a suction cup to lift the cast iron part out*

[@robertlakatus4412]

Keith I have an old 18inch Lodge & Shipley

[@tbtportfolio5982]

You see the video where the guy pours aluminum into a bobcat SKULL!?

[@koitk]

Isn't your cover now 6% smaller than it should be?

[@ittailevani2535]

what sand did u use

[@bobbystanley8580]

Can you reuse that sand?

[@tonyennis3008]

It would have taken one hell of a magnet.

[@billbryant7194]

not for neodymium magnets

[@neon2212]

Good Job

[@VintageMachinery]

+NEon Thank you!

[@Shipslaw]

What type of sand is it (and who supplies it)?

[@VintageMachinery]

+Jacques de Wet It is called Petrobond - you can find it on-line.

[@rovannon]

hi. do you make your own molding sand? or buy it?

[@VintageMachinery]

+rovannon I bought mine, but there are recipes on the Internet to make your own. I got mine from Budget Casting Supply.

[@lescotta7427]

How about wood handles and hot glue???

[@crispy-k]

0:26 omg the barrel behind him just looked like it was part of him and i was like "holly molly this guy is fat in a weird way" haha but nice video ;) thnx

[@VintageMachinery]

+Crispy K Too funny - and you are not the first one who has commented that!

[@crispy-k]

+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org Haha ok, well got my sub, like your vids ;) Keep them coming

[@nicklaskarlsson5457]

Hey nice video .... Can you re youse the sand for the next time

[@VintageMachinery]

Yes - you use it over and over again.

[@abhisheksoni9636]

What's the red things give details

[@premierd8988]

By fcuk you are good at that Keith...:)

[@kingrjay6735]

nice video

[@مرتضىالكرعاوي-ق6ت]

kinG Ř xxxxx

[@radbertgrimmig3979]

Regular salt (sodium chloride) should not melt in molten Aluminium, should it? Its melting point is a LOT higher.

[@coast2coast00]

+Radbert Grimmig Aluminum melts at 660C, salt melts at 800C, so assuming that the aluminum is not just over the melting point, the salt should melt in it.

[@cloakanddagger1]

+Radbert Grimmig borax mixed with salt

[@itzikshoay9172]

u have train in your home?

[@techmago]

Why put salt?

[@jamesmunyon6474]

should have got a couple big magnets to lift it out

[@Opinionator52]

Looks like it will clean up nicely Keith! Thank you for sharing... :o] O,,,

[@GeirGunnarss]

you might be interested in a channel called myfordboy. he goes into a lot of home casting stuff.

[@khaledsoud582]

good

[@6sacres]

magnets arnt very strong but yeah they could work

[@AngelHarimau]

do you have a train station in your backyard??!!! hahaha

[@VintageMachinery]

AngelHarimau Well, kind of! The video was shot at the Georgia Museum of Agriculture where I volunteer at. They have a 1917 Vulcan Iron Works steam locomotive that they run on Saturdays and there is indeed a relocated train depot about two hundred yards from the shop there. So, not really in MY backyard, pretty much in the backyard of the shop there where I was working!

[@AngelHarimau]

I googled it and shows a picture of you with the machine haha :D

[@hamishferguson4166]

i love to troll american its a hobby and a joy, but i realy like your videos

[@junkyardripper]

The music was a little to slow because I fell asleep while watching this

[@darrinswanson]

Never occurred to you too use a MagMount to lift the pattern out?

[@Abom79]

Awesome video Keith! It was great to see the step by step actions needed to mold and pour a casting like that. Very informative! Can't wait to see the new guard on the lathe. BTW, I did this same job with the Pacemaker, only mine was formed steel and welded. Thanks for sharing with us! Adam

[@lar0638]

I know right that's awesome brovo brovo bro 👏👏👏👏👏👏

[@mdrashed-zc2ns]

good

[@VintageMachinery]

+md rashed Thanks!

[@rljzathras]

Never mind the part cooling down, it's pretty cool to have a railway line running into the workshop :-)

[@mavoside]

Just wondering if a couple of rare earth magnets would have helped lift the cast iron from the sand mound? Love your videos and the restoration work you do!

[@davidstelter2391]

I had the same thought - a big lift magnet or two, maybe a hoist above to help with a stable, straight lift.

[@res1492]

yeah my parts always shrink when it gets cold....wink wink....!!! Joking aside , great informative video

[@VintageMachinery]

+res1492 Mine do too. Oh what getting older does to us.....

[@supersonictoast2822]

+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org it was so cold this morning i stepped out of the shower and damn if it hadnt disappeared

[@res1492]

At least you can look down and still see yours, not seen mine since 76...wife says its still there thou, its all this home brew i been drinking, gots myself a beer gut...:P

[@BrooksideFarmBarreMA]

If you have the ability, pre-heat the mold in an oven at 450-500F for an hour or two. It helps alleviate the cooling on thinner cross-sections.