Matching Gear Ratio to Techniques! (Don't Waste Money on the WRONG REEL) Ep. 152

In this episode of Pro Secrets Exposed, I talk about how to choose the right gear ratio for the appropriate technique. Although this can be challenging at times, this video should help shorten the curve in learning what to do. This fishing tip series will post everydayish until I can't do it anymore! So stay tuned for more! If you haven't yet, please hit the SUBSCRIBE button!
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[@dannyyork1142]

Gotta a 731 gear ratio reel, killer for spinnerbait . Tearing Them up couple years ago with it. Switched it over to 811 caught them but not as good, switched to a 631 samething. Switched it back to 731, I was catching 3 bass to 1, on 731 than other gear ratios. So that goes show you gear ratios and speed, or lack of speed of your lire makes alot diffrence.

[@rubenclemonsjr]

This really helped me a lot I’ve been wondering what the gear ratios were used best for. Thank you

[@rondetorres3842]

Great explanation! I'm kind of getting older :) and grew up on slower reels and that's how my brain works. I have a hard time slowing down with faster reels vs. speeding up with slower reels. I do agree, and for me around a 7:1 is my sweet spot it's my go to all around reel. Thanks for posting!

[@DanielBoone337]

Other then big crank baits I throw either 6.8:1 or 7.4/7.5:1 reels to me that's the sweet spot and everything else is specialized like you're saying... Great video man just subbed!!!

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

Thanks a ton buddy!

[@jasonmausteller2488]

Inches per turn IPT is important too, not all ratios in different reels take in the same amount of line

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

Correct

[@FlareGard]

What would you recommend for a wobble head? I was thinking 6.3 or 7.5 very informative video. Thanks!

[@Flatland56]

Let’s discuss the Dobyns rod tubes behind you lol

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

They are my dads. He used to sell them for years in his tackle shop and acquired quite a few tubes.

[@TS1023TS]

I don’t see a 5.1:1 for the BB Pro. Is it out of stock or discontinued?

[@victorsimonsen921]

ipt is the more important spec line pickup can change in the same ratios by spool sizes and line capacity also spool widths can change the retrieves

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

You’re not wrong

[@dalemayes3854]

Oh yes, this is one helpful video. Thank you so much

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

Glad it was helpful!

[@mattmercad0]

What’s your thoughts on swim baits and 200+ size reels? I want to get into it but don’t know what ratios to consider. TIA!

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

I personally don’t think they mix well. Now, if a swim bait is less than 6”, not too bad. But anything bigger you need to upgrade. I use the Lew’s SuperDuty 300 in a 6.4:1 I believe. It allows me to really slow it down or reel fast to speed. Now I’m talking a glide bait. Some I might need a 7.5:1, especially if I’m primarily fishing fast.

[@bigguy7618]

5 speed will always be number one ! Shove the high speed reels back in the box

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

David Fritts would agree with you

[@ChristophercurtisChris]

Who do you use a bigger crankbait on a baitcaster rod and wheel

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

The winter time, like right now, and in the summer. I use the SuperDuty 300 reel in a 6.4:1. And 17-20lb line. The rod I used in the XD10 rod by Lew’s

[@caution927]

What's up with all the Dobyns rod tubes??

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

Those are my dads. He still uses some and used to sell them.

[@DrewBradstreet]

Do you ever have problems turning ye handle of your 8 or 9 gear ratio when flipping or frogging?

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

Personally, no. What reel are you using?

[@DrewBradstreet]

@@AndrewUpshawFishing I use a bunch of different stuff…Shimano, Abu, Lews. Probably has to do more with handle size.

[@PabloEscobar-vm1hf]

Got a 4-5:1 DAM quick MAD 5500FS i love it for deadbaiting

[@T_J_Fishin]

Best for a 10XD ?

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

I like a SuperDuty 300 in a 6.4:1

[@bwjc6561]

6.2 & 7.2 is all I use seem to work best for me.

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

They are great all around

[@jasonmausteller2488]

Isn’t the KVD a 6.2-1?

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

It might be. They all have a little difference to them. One Lew’s reel might be a 6.2:1, while another is 6.5:1, and another 6.8:1. I pay attention to inches per turn (find it on the box) and what number is in front more importantly

[@cjr4497]

Personally, I won't go above a 7 gear ratio as I am mainly in and around grass 85% of the time. You have zero power on anything higher. There are times where you have to get their heads above the water and crank. I barely have enough power with a 7 to do that. Going in and getting them is not always an option. I went back to a 6 for spinnerbaits as I had more bites that way. 5 for crankbaits.

[@nickkoschmeder3288]

I have that 3.8-1 reel it's green and everything

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

I used to have quite a few, but Sold them years ago.

[@ChrisWhite.fishing]

Daiwa Tatula 100 | 6.3:1 = 66.8 cm | 7.3:1 = 77.5 cm | 8.1:1 = 86.1 cm Daiwa Tatula 200 | 6.3:1 = 71.6 cm | 7.3:1 = 81.8 cm Daiwa Tatula 300 | 6.3:1 = 85.1 cm | 7.1:1 = 95.5 cm | 8.1:1 = 109.0 cm

[@stevencaldwell838]

Big ( 2-8oz ) swim/glide baits? 5:1.

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

I throw a 6.8:1

[@chrishampton8842]

Abu also had a 3.8 to 1

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

Did they? I never saw theirs. But just my opinion, that is a gear ratio that is too slow for just about any technique.

[@chrishampton8842]

@@AndrewUpshawFishing used to throw Mann’s 20+ and 30+ with it. Called a Royale Express lol

[@arcfishing2012]

I guess I'm a odd ball. Because I use a 6:4.1, 6:8.1, 7:0.1, 7:5.1, and sometimes a 5:4.1. Then for my spinning I use a 5:0.1 and 6:2.1.

[@AndrewUpshawFishing]

I wouldn’t say you’re an odd ball at all. You find what works for you and apply it.

[@academicmailbox7798]

I don't know if you've ever done a video like this.

[@academicmailbox7798]

You will often come across a current lake situation, or a wind situation. Where you're forced to throw perpendicular to the pressure of the water current. And control over speed (as the bait comes across current), can be the difference between bites or no bites. There's a whole book that one could write about just that one topic. What position to set up in (for boat's it's known as boat positioning or boat control). Relative to where you want to cast, and where the pressure of the water or wind current is going. What angle you select to throw 'the line' in relation to all of that. And finally, how to adjust for speed in all of the same. It's a complicated math equation with a lot of variables. And it's different for kayak based anglers (lower position relative to water surface). Kayak bass anglers to some extent remind me a lot of 'wading' anglers. Because wading anglers have a similar problem of being lower down near to the water surface level. It changes one's eye elevation in relation to water (it makes 'space' appear much bigger than it actually is). Conversely, when you're standing on a platform on a boat. Anglers such as David Dudley have been very aware of this. Things can appear smaller than they actually are. Sort of like climbing the Empire State building to get to the viewing platform. And looking out over Manhattan. It's when you're down in the streets where you plastic worm or crankbait is. That you realize just how important bait depth, speed, direction of cast etc. All matter.

[@academicmailbox7798]

One of the best five minute demonstrations. Mikael Frodin in November of 2019, made a short piece. He called it 'Create More Drift'. And bass anglers never talk about this. Fly anglers talk about it a whole lot. Notice in his demonstration. He's positioned his rod perpendicular to the current flow. Either downstream in direction, or upstream in direction. It's these kinds of adjustments (in addition to what you mention about reel handle retrieve, and gear ratio). That matter a whole lot. Frodin is talking about Atlantic salmon in that demonstration. And salmon are odd, in that they like things faster than you're fishing often. It's like people who go to Nascar races, and watch vehicle speed around a bowl. Other species, or fish that are in a different attitude or mood. It's the ability to make the bait hang in the water long enough, that can often be the trigger. Rather than the opposite, of where the bait makes a lot of progress over short distances. And sometimes you need to alternate a bit, rather than be consistent. Without changing bait, rod or reel. Alter what you are doing. I don't know why it matters. It seems to matter. That perpendicular cast across current or wind with a bait. Where one's rod direction is changed as needed. Is important over a whole retrieve. The shape the line makes across the water, can impact on speed (de-celerate, or accelerate), a lot.

[@academicmailbox7798]

Another way to achieve it with conventional tackle. And I don't know if anyone does it. One can make an exaggerated cast (if you look at the cast from the side, it's like a person that shoots a flare up into the sky). The direction of the flare is straight up in the air, and eventually it peaks at the top and comes back down. Not very far from where the flare started out. One can make an exaggerated cast. That is more vertical than horizontal. One won't achieve a lot of distance in this type of cast. What on can do. If there is a gentle breeze or cross-wind blowing. On the main areas of the lake, around exposed points or depth transitions. The bait will land a modest distance away from the angler. And the 'wind' will do the work of laying the line on the water (it would work very well with braided line, as that picks up the wind better than anything). In a U-shape on the water. And now, when you use your reel of whatever gear ratio. You'll achieve incredible speed of the bait in your retrieve. Why? Because the bait has to travel around in this exaggerated U-shape in the same amount of time. As it would normally travel in a straight line cast and retrieve back.

[@academicmailbox7798]

A variant of this, is what Musky anglers do with their rod tip pointed down vertically and put into the water. When they are close to the boat or kayak, they do something known as a 'figure of eight' in order to display the bait to the fish. A lot of the times, with that 'flare' type of cast. Using something like a light braid line on conventional tackle. You can achieve something similar. And it's amazing the way, in which fish who are predatory in instinct. When they are shown that bait profile side-on (think about it, with 'straight line' casts like most anglers do in bass fishing). The part of the bait the fish sees usually in pursuit. Is a profile of that bait as seen from behind. It could be any angle. However, what fish don't tend to ever see are baits that are shown to them from multiple angles. And what that exaggerated 'hand grenade' or 'bomb' type of cast does. Is it does that. What Mikael Frodin is talking about with Atlantic salmon is very much that kind of thing (where his rod is located down-river, yes he's increasing the speed). He's also changing the profile of the bait, as seen from the fish's point of view. To where the fish now gets to see the bait better from more angles.

[@academicmailbox7798]

Fish tend to be in two different moods. The first, is where you purposefully slow your bait down. By whatever means you are able to. The fish then examines the bait more, by moving towards it and having some more time to chose. To bite or not. Or the other mood, where the fish could be really aggrevated by a lure. And that when you show the lure from more angles, such as in that exaggerated U-shape to the fish. That makes them even more aggressive towards it. What 'lake' and stillwater anglers tend to be. Because they're used to dealing with fish at more depths. Is aware of 'vertical' or sinking actions that baits can have. Such as the 'flutter' spoon episode that Andrew Upshaw recently published on his channel. To describe the ways in which the flutter spoon works. That was news to me. Michael Iaconelli has a similar one, in which he talks about rigging of 'tube' plastic baits. So that they fall in the water column, in an exaggerated circular spiral motion. Again, this same idea that I mentioned, about the U-shape retrieve and the 'flare' type of cast. Except Michael Iaconelli explains how to present a tube in a vertical spiral motion to fish. Simply by how the plastic bait is rigged to the terminal tackle.