How to SPRUE CAST Your Warhammer 40k Miniatures (DIY Casting Tutorial)

[@ge2719]

11:00 a good trick is to put a bit of the coloured dyes you have into one part, mix it in, then you can tell when its fully mixed into the hardener. Even if youre going to paint them afterwards it wont matter.

[@Bluecho4]

This reusable mold material looks really cool. Makes it so you don't need to spend so much on silicone. Thanks for the advice!

[@kolosa5621]

You could try using a vibrating massager to get the bubbles out of the molds.

[@rhvette]

You can get a thinner, more pourable sprue goo if you use ethyl acetate. It's commonly sold as MEK substitute. That should help alleviate the porosity issues. Also, GSW mentions that Flexi Mold can be used to make two-part molds to make things like those big Chaos Knight shoulder panels. Simply coat the surfaces of the first mold with release agent (they recommend their own brand of special petroleum jelly, but I suspect regular Vaseline works just as good) and chill before pouring the second half of the mold over it. It's probably a good idea to carve some registration marks into the first mold before casting the second to ensure repeatable alignment.

[@androswolf]

To create perfect alignmentmarks for two-part.molds i usualy use ball-bearingballs that i press into the clay (or plasticine in this case) before i pour the first half of the mold. Then when you turn it around and remove the clay/plasticine you just carefully pry the balls out of the first mold and PRESTO ! A perfect set of indentions to align the two halves.

[@JB-yr6qt]

With the resin and flexi-mold liquid, you can use a straight bit of sprue held against the lip as you pour for a guide to make it pour better. Any straight smooth thing will do, be it sprue, a spatula, a straw, whatever. Guides the pour so it's less messy and also helps reduce bubbles if those were giving you issues.

[@intzbk1]

Years ago I got one of the old Saurus Start Collecting and for the big dinosaur they give you an option to make two but only give you one body. There was an article way back when about using the box to make characters and the like and I used oymaru and milliput to make another body so I got two big dinosaurs from the one box. I'm definitely going to try this microwaveable mold stuff!

[@newworldempire]

You've been inspiring me with your experiments just to get started again on whatever project I can.

[@minisarefuntopaint]

Interesting methods you're developing. I'm really enjoying your sprue series. And I did use a piece of sprue in a base I made a few days ago... you're catching.

[@Godonstilts]

Intellectual Propety law in the UK - you are free to make as many facsimilies of a product as you like, for your OWN PERSONAL USE, that does not break any rules. The moment that you distribute them (even giving away for free) that is the infringement.

[@1krani]

Food for thought: if you want to avoid all those air holes in the sprue recasts, try "painting" the inside of each mold with a thin coating of resin or the like before pressing the sprue goo into it. Hopefully, the resin will take longer to set and thus be draw into the air holes as the acetone evaporates out of the sprue goo. Gotta get me some of that Flexi-mold, though. Been looking for a silicone replacement ever since the last stuff I used melted through its own bottle.

[@mitonetic]

Have you tried putting some acetone in the mold first before then putting your goo in? It might help to stop some of those bubbles. You'd probably need to overfill and then press with a heavy weight after a couple of minutes too.

[@b4ds33d]

Bought a Raptor scanner just for this. Scan the entire sprue, all the bits I could ever use!

[@TB80231]

I'm an avid 3d modeler and printer, I like scans as much as the next guy, but you should try mold making too. If you have the time, it's a lot of fun

[@KaidenWaterson]

Super cool idea man I love your videos

[@chunkylover48]

This stuff looks great! Spue goo is definitely not good for casting, plus, it'll destroy your health. But I'll for sure be getting some of this Flexi mold to use with resin and milliput/green stuff.

[@christophk.3085]

When you press the Goo into the mold , the mold flexes a lot, maybe you can stiffen it more by keeping it in Legoframe to get en even more crisp cast?

[@minisarefuntopaint]

You're making a chaos knight? Awesome! I'll look forward to that.

[@markbradfield7916]

Always enjoy the sprue videos - dont stop!

[@sub-optimalwargaming9311]

Damn these are great results! Have to try this! Mostly dabbled with spruegoo and oymaru/blue stuff

[@clockworkpanda8]

This way when GW raids you, you can destroy the molds 😂

[@JMACCSArmiesOfMiddleEarth]

Spreeeww gooooo is a game changer

[@Xatxitor]

I cant wait to see your home made sprou goo2.0

[@lordofthe6string]

I 100% think that is just geletin, probably with some additives to keep it fresh.

[@jesse-got-dolphins-into-heaven]

This is awesome. You may have solved my problem with needing legs and torsos

[@mrwabbit9576]

Those resin ones were really impressive.

[@Panda]

Nice one, very cool. Now im just thinking what I could duplicate >:)

[@Fidel_L.Bousquet1970]

The holes caused by the bubbles on the Ork scenery actually look great, they look like bullet holes... becauz' moar DAKKA!

[@ge2719]

or deep pitted rust. can see the streaks of rust in my mind, and they're beautiful 😂 Id say it may even look better than the original which looks way too pristine

[@terrain4print]

Very interesting. One drawback with casting resin is that it destroys the mold over time. With this, could it just be reheated and remade again and again? I wonder if the material degrades over a number of cycles. Anyway, thanks for doing these experiments.

[@cobracommander6606]

Acetone is also one of several chemicals used to make plastic glue.

[@EchoOddity]

to avoid the pock marks could you try laying in the sprue goo mk2 first intop the drtails and then layering in the acetone goo acter to make up the bulk of the material?

[@handcannonart]

You can make that flex mold with flavorless gelatin, glycerin and something else...there's videos on KZbin you can make alot for like $10

[@the98themperoroftheholybri33]

You you want the benefit of resin but the speed of other products, UV resin is your answer. I've even used resin with blue stuff and it doesn't stick or affect blue stuff

[@miniarefuntopaint]

Those circle discs would make excellent bases if they're in the right size.

[@mottie85]

Good stuff.

[@AlexDraco]

Like you mention it yourself at 6:42, the small pox marks all over make it looks perfect for some nurgly piece of terrain or corroded metal scrap.

[@chaley2935]

What about using paint thinner as isn't that a little bit different?

[@reneesteeves3698]

awesome video.

[@cwj138]

100k hype. Good vid.

[@Kitbash.Carnage]

Hope all well brother 👍🔥🤘❤️

[@WilliamKuby]

well neat stuff got to do it over a gen had some going but the stuff just dried out but the mold stuff that cheff mike heats up did like the blue stuff just wel did look like had lot detal to it well nest vid

[@Legoguy7138]

new sprue video!!

[@ge2719]

i think the holes could also look cool as deep rust pitting in the metal. Would be interesting to see how it turns out with that "dirty down" rust effect, just dollop some in each hole and let it run down the model like real rust would do over time.

[@EvilBearSkirmish]

awesome, any chance you have any ideas on how to use sprue goo to make craters ?

[@Discostick55]

i wonder if a pressure pot would work to reduce bubbles like it does for people who cast resin stuff

[@allenforbes8108]

may the goo be with you!

[@leechefski]

I'm surprised the epoxy resin didn't melt the flexi-mold, as it gets quite hot when it cures.

[@tannergee]

Could you in theory fill in some of the wholes left in thr sprue-goo casts using a little more sprue goo? Like mark 2 to fill in holes you dont want after curing?

[@rjakiel73]

Just use a UV model resin. No bubbles near perfect parts.

[@delivered115]

Do u think this would work for zone mortalis necromunda terrain to make building a board more affordable. My only concern is that the dimensions might be slight off and mess with the connection points

[@adambaker549]

Can you use 3d supports as sprue goo? If so, you could make a video where you print and paint an item, then use the supports to make goo, which you pour into a mould you make in the shape of the sprue sticks you have been collecting and turning into your cool bots. This would help you create your own sprue sticks for more crafting.

[@Banterbear]

Cool video. I have been making casts for years (not for minis but for custom figure casts), but all these recent products are brilliant, especially for being reusable after you have made what you need. PS Why would anyone get upset that you used Lego for a mold surround? It's your Lego/other brand brick. And would difference does it make if you are using another brand if they don't want you using Lego?🤪😂

[@williamtrinidad3520]

Watched!❤

[@insanty69]

Do you perhaps have information which plastic acetone melts in the same or similar way, since I don't have sprus?

[@vincentwiddershoven2122]

Awsome video again. Just out of couriosity: what whas that yellow putty you used as base of the mould? Looks like Playdoo(tm), lol

[@samellowery]

Plasticine

[@theromeog]

for the molds, have you ever tried using a clear 3d resin and curing it in the mold?

[@lemonshogun6835]

I'm curious to know if heating the sprue goo either before or during moulding would have any impact on how flat the surface is. Might allow the bubbles to escape through the molten goo before it starts hardening

[@totallyrobot]

What could possibly go wrong with heating acetone anyway, it's not explosive in the slightest.

[@ДимаЕфимик-т7т]

Looks like goo2.0 creates smoother surface. What if you make extra thin layer of goo2.0, let it cure some time and then fill the rest of the mold with regular sprue goo?

[@paulmannering9100]

I’ll bet this is EXACTLY how GW does it too.

[@Notnotnotnotnotnotnotnot]

You should consider buying some putty to fill holes from sprue glue.

[@Eisen_Jaeger]

your flex mold seems like low temp glue sticks

[@philgee486]

👍👍👍

[@cuthwulf]

Get Alumilite. You'll thank me. No reason to muck about with sprue glue and this weird microwave stuff that you probably shouldn't use in a microwave you're going to eat with. Alumilite cost a bit but one set will do dozens and dozens of castings and it dries in 3 minutes and makes an exact replica of items like this.

[@displeasedsociopath5939]

I wonder how 3D printer UV resins would work for this on a sunny day.

[@HNH421]

Dear Mr always angry all the time I am going to do just that - but use an old sun bed - 3D printer resins get hot as they cure so its best to do it in the cold

[@JimRakete79]

13:02 Say what you want… that is a nasal prosthesis.

[@richard0007]

Have you tried leaving the goo out to dry for an hour or two before you put it into the mold? Maybe if you evaporate away some of the acetone before it goes into the mold you might get less bubbles.

[@applehead6179]

Oooo! Someones just been taken off the G.W Christmas card list. 😁👍👍

[@OzClay-TheMaw]

It almost hurt me to see you cut it. Just out of instinct.

[@joostcbruikman933]

I love how you use fake LEGO for the molds. What sort of mad man would use the real deal...

[@TheGamerZapocalypse]

...that's really nice...if you like all the air bubbles... -_-

[@elijahheuerman392]

I’m never going to by war hammer 40k kits no plays by me I don’t have the money nore really the time but if I did I would use your approach.

[@groggitz]

Mate, game changing new kit, my SP is bricks & mortar like, but that epoxy resin with the new moulds 👌🫡 Oof ❤

[@murderraven7770]

my sprue goo is just a pretty solid blob. can’t get it to goo lol

[@ZedLeppelin1989]

"Well" "Yeah"