Mont Blanc // Rescuing a Russian

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Mediocre Amateur

Mediocre Amateur

Жыл бұрын

It was an ambitious plan. We planned to take the first ride up the Aiguille du Midi and walk quickly, like an old lady with weights in her hands, up to Tucal, over Mont Maudit and up to the summit of Mont Blanc. On paper it looked possible. However, it turned out that no one had been summiting Blanc from that direction recently. The guiding trench we were relying on was non-existent. The fixed lines were frozen under a thick layer of ice. And we were not prepared for the giant, gaping burgschrund. It was at this point we came across Andreas. He had been sitting at this frozen obstacle for hours. Too afraid to go on and too afraid to return to the Refuge Cosmic. He begged, in broken english, to join us. We have no rescue training. It is by providences good graces and thousands of hours of experience that we manage to bring ourselves home everyday. Tying him to us both figuratively and metaphorically was a risk for all involved. Also, there was the fact that the tram was closing soon and Andreas was very, very cautiously descending. The stakes couldn't be higher.

Пікірлер: 298
@frankiev8295
@frankiev8295 Жыл бұрын
I don’t blame the Russian. He probably subscribes to your channel and thought….“anyone can do a 15 to 30 mile, 5,000 to 10,000ft vert gain round trip in half a day”.You guys are animals. That dude was out of his depth….very fortunate you were there.
@awKtn32-_-
@awKtn32-_- Жыл бұрын
The mediocre team makes everything looks easy!
@silasmarner7586
@silasmarner7586 Жыл бұрын
I am more or less retired from mountaineering, and I'm a more mediocre amateur by far than these guys, but that Russian has ZZZEEEERRROOOO technique and is a hazard to himself and others.
@conorlinehan4434
@conorlinehan4434 Жыл бұрын
Anyone can do the things these amateurs do.
@awKtn32-_-
@awKtn32-_- Жыл бұрын
@@conorlinehan4434 I’m sure you climb bigger mountain faster than these guys but their efficiency is very impressive! Sorry everyone can’t live up to your abilities Conor.
@conorlinehan4434
@conorlinehan4434 Жыл бұрын
@@awKtn32-_- you must not be very intelligent, as this was a pun on words based on the “mediocre amateur” name lolz. I can’t do 10% of what they do looooool
@thorstenreitz7302
@thorstenreitz7302 Жыл бұрын
Going from Midi to Mont Blanc this way has long been considered a quite challenging climb, with substantial objective risks from weather and ice/snow avalanches. Good to see that you made the call to return and that you go safely out of this (together with Andreas, who indeed looked like he was in way over his head). A hint: Sometimes you can call the cable car and inform them that you are rescuing soemone, and they will wait or go an extra time (often they go one more time a bit later anyways for the staff).
@mtadams2009
@mtadams2009 Жыл бұрын
Many years ago, my friend and I helped carry out a very badly injured backcountry skier off of Mount Washington NH. I don't remember his name and I never heard from him again. He was an orthopedic surgeon is all I remember. I remember carrying him out was very difficult and much harder than I expected. What I do remember is feeling really good for being in the right place at the right time and that feeling lasted for a bit. The next day we headed back up and skied like nothing ever happened. I do remember looking at my friend and without a word with both knew are plans for a big day of skiing had changed and something much more important needed to be done. I am happy you were there for him; you really never know what could have happened. Take care and thank you for doing the right thing.
@FerrerLarruy
@FerrerLarruy Жыл бұрын
I totally agree with you, Scott. In high mountain we have to behave like humans first...
@kevinbrooks1104
@kevinbrooks1104 Жыл бұрын
Sometimes you just have to be decent, thank for your integrity, doing the right thing when nobody is watching, can be difficult. Much respect for you and your friend
@riccardobelleggia4260
@riccardobelleggia4260 10 ай бұрын
Hey guys congrats for your alpine adventures! I would like to point out a few mistakes I think you have done on this summit push. It's up for discussion, and these are just my 2 cents - that route has objective dangers especially later in the day. Starting from Chamonix and not from the Cosmique adds unnecessary risk. People usually starts at 2 A.M. from the Cosmique to make it as safe as possible - it's good practice to check the conditions with the hut or guides before embarking on a high mountain route like that. A phone call to the Hut would have been enough to understand that it was not meant to be on that day, given the conditions. - Same for the gear: always gain informations about the conditions of the ice and vertical sections and the gear other alpinists or guides suggest to bring - cool that you met Andreas, but never leave somebody alone in the glacier, especially if it's someone that can be psychologically and phisically stranded. And especially if it's later in the day and the weather is changing (heli rescue is not always an option). You have done it twice in this case. A secondary summit is not worth risking somebody else's life. Also, you can call the Midi tram and say you just rescued a guy and please to wait 5 extra minutes for you. They are usually keen to do that. That being said, climb on!
@thehunt85
@thehunt85 6 ай бұрын
I'm no where at your or their level but everything you pointed out seems like basic steps someone at their level would have taken. I felt the anxiety of that older gentleman being left alone at the end even if the guys knew that he physically was "ok" with where they split off from him. No judgement... it just surprised me that experienced climbers would leave someone.
@hyperadapted
@hyperadapted 11 күн бұрын
@@thehunt85 its not ok - just some ego tripping to summut something. Potential sacrifice to go after own pleasure. The bragging how they saved him. Up until now I enjoyed the videos but this one exposed heavy character flaws which makes me reconsider liking the content
@DaViDCZ321
@DaViDCZ321 8 күн бұрын
Amen
@LydJaGillers
@LydJaGillers Жыл бұрын
There's a lot to learn from this video. For starters, it is great that you guys were there and willing and able to help him down what seemed to him to be an impossible task. Secondly, and this is for the others who watch these videos, always stay with your group. If you start with a group, you need to stay with that group and be willing to accept the decisions of the group as a whole. If you feel you cannot do that, then you need to find a different group. It is really unsafe to climb any mountain and even more so when doing it alone, especially mountains such as Mont Blanc. I hope the Russian guy learned from this and knows that for future climbs he should stay with his group. But also, for future groups, don't allow someone to be left behind.
@keylarodriguez7541
@keylarodriguez7541 Жыл бұрын
Hi guys! I met two of you in a restaurant in Chamonix and you told us the story of rescuing Russian guy. Crazyyyy but so lucky for him you were there. Plus the view from up high breathtaking… saw mount blanc for a week doing the trek but seeing a different perspective amazing. Kudos to you all!!
@A-Aa-ron
@A-Aa-ron Жыл бұрын
Whoa, great to hear from you! Your groups seemed way awesome and that dinner and wine from La Tablee was so tasty after a good day in the mountains. Hope the rest of your trip went well. Thanks for the comment! -Aaron
@DannyClarkeVlog
@DannyClarkeVlog Жыл бұрын
Just found tour channel. You guys are awesome. Cheers! Keep inspiring
@justrione
@justrione Жыл бұрын
Outstanding Sir. Thank you for sharing your adventures
@Neontrifle
@Neontrifle Жыл бұрын
Great that you looked after the fella, thanks for another great one
@mongolmcphee7791
@mongolmcphee7791 Жыл бұрын
Well done for being good Samaritans lads, I’m proud of you. It’s the right thing to do even if it’s a pain in the arse. In the mountains if you don’t help each other it’s not worth going. Very impressive physical performances from you guys too, not to mention the fact that your still rocking the word “Stoked” long after it’s mid 90’s expiration date. Hero’s! Some excellent videos on your channel lads. Hope your 2023 diary is packed full of adventure. Greetings and best wishes from Scotland. Subscribed.
@theworldhiker1
@theworldhiker1 Жыл бұрын
Great video guys...and glad you were able to help out Andreas as well. Well done!! Hope to do Blanc one of these years.
@torgersontravis
@torgersontravis Жыл бұрын
Does anyone else watch enough of these videos that the opening beat pops into your head when you're going on a mild hike?
@trevorswayhome
@trevorswayhome Жыл бұрын
Good job guys 🌞 I’ll never forget coming down from mt adams, with no water, and these absolute saviors had some water and blue ribbon for me. Homie probably had a long think about preparation for adventures like this. Y’all are bad ass
@xsteevox
@xsteevox Жыл бұрын
Proof that people will do anything to hang out with you guys!
@seantoms4697
@seantoms4697 Жыл бұрын
Great video I have done Mt Blanc 3 times via the Gouter Ridge once in a heavy snow and , like you have done the Tacul , bet you liked the short rock pitch on the summit of Mt B du Tacul .Andrew was taking a big risk soloing , he was lucky he was doing it in very dry conditions - in a typical year his risk of ending up in a slot would be high. Well done for helping him , one advantage 4 on rope lessens any of you being dragged into a slot , you took a risk as he could have fallen and pulled you all off on the face. Noted the 15 foot 70 degree wall , you probably made a good call as the slope up to the Col Maudit can be steep in a dry summer , in 19 , 3 friends who climb WI 4+ told me they had to pitch the face using ice screws , not normal its usually 50 degree snow. Good luck on your next trip !
@mrsi4mon
@mrsi4mon Жыл бұрын
The repertoire of different names given to that man by Danny was comical 😂
@robinsmith9734
@robinsmith9734 Жыл бұрын
Great day you guys, and non-errant decision-making! I was there in '72' and '86' and,, but weather and conditions, held. we made an igloo for an over-nighter, on a good flat spot. Full moon and all. Bonati days fixed firmly in our heads, and Gaston Rebuffat. You all rock.............
@Logan-kj8be
@Logan-kj8be Жыл бұрын
Some may even call that rescue a "Miracle on Ice"
@jasonwooden
@jasonwooden Жыл бұрын
I see what you did there.
@jimc.goodfellas226
@jimc.goodfellas226 Жыл бұрын
Haha
@counterfit5
@counterfit5 Жыл бұрын
Turned out much better for Russia this time
@opotopo1
@opotopo1 Жыл бұрын
I once had to run to make the last bin down from the midi - an experience that'd i'd completely forgotten until watching this! Nice job!
@dylancolon5871
@dylancolon5871 Жыл бұрын
I've barely made it running so hard I felt sick, and also just straight up missed it and spent a long cold night in the station. That won't kill you, but it sucks really bad and is definitely not recommended.
@peterklauza1481
@peterklauza1481 Жыл бұрын
Such a great video....Well done guys
@Scott7169
@Scott7169 Жыл бұрын
Great video chaps, good call on the early turn around and great helping the Russian dude. After watching all Mediocre videos I get the Impression Danny isn't the most patient of guys..... Great video as ever.
@trekkingenonsolo
@trekkingenonsolo Жыл бұрын
Amazing channel! Very very lovely hiking movies!
@dustinbilodeau2940
@dustinbilodeau2940 Жыл бұрын
Well I have finally caught up and watched every Mediocre video. The content is too good to be free. Thanks Danny. Its been a hell of a run
@chrishall6364
@chrishall6364 Жыл бұрын
I’ve recently discovered your channel and been watching quite a few videos; no doubt I’ll be working through them all as I find them compulsive viewing! I have to say you guys are absolutely awesome in the adventures that you do and the videography showcasing them. As a Brit, I’ll probably never visit the locations in North America, but it’s a real enjoyment and privilege to be able to see them through your filming. Seriously impressed!
@ChesterChi3
@ChesterChi3 9 ай бұрын
If you're ever up for trip, you could go to Washington state and visit Mt Rainier, St Helens, Mt Adams, Mt Hood, Mt Baker, Mt Jefferson and the 3 Sisters all in one trip.
@Rendarth1
@Rendarth1 Жыл бұрын
That was a great sub-peak to summit, regardless of not making it to Mont Blanc, and with a good deed along the way at that! I liked that this video showed that even though you guys are amazing climbers, you still take safety into account when on a route, and can fall victim to poor beta / trip reports like anyone else.
@justinbayola
@justinbayola Жыл бұрын
Awesome job guys!
@darrenroberts1713
@darrenroberts1713 Жыл бұрын
Unbelievable, what an absolute great vid once again....! BADASSES!
@oneofnine4212
@oneofnine4212 Жыл бұрын
Any experienced chmonix climber knows, the hardest route in the valle blanche is undoubtedly the final slog up to the midi, before the last bin goes down. Otherwise you spend the night in the midi station luxurious restrooms.
@artartcon1238
@artartcon1238 Жыл бұрын
Good job guys! I think you got lifetime patron/comrad from that trip)
@michaelhaag705
@michaelhaag705 Жыл бұрын
Would love to see a video on the gear you all use on the various trips. Great content, keep it up!
@cliffordcrimson7124
@cliffordcrimson7124 Жыл бұрын
I've climbed beyond my capability to descend a few times and it really is a paralyzing situation. Once I decided I had to go down no matter what (stuck above a snowfield in a saddle at 3pm, storms coming in) and had no way to glissade safely since I kicked steps up planning to take a backside trail down. Stupid. No broken bones but many bruises and cuts. I must have hit 30mph at least screaming in a mix of pure joy and pure terror. Then again, pure joy and terror are why we climb at all.
@bellicose2037
@bellicose2037 Жыл бұрын
True
@StrikeEngine
@StrikeEngine Жыл бұрын
I think its a fine line between getting out of your comfort zone and getting in over your head. At what point does one become the other? What are the signs? Any tips welcome!
@cliffordcrimson7124
@cliffordcrimson7124 Жыл бұрын
@@StrikeEngine Very true. Planning makes the biggest difference. If you have contingencies, a potentially dangerous situation just becomes a challenging situation. I didn't consider having to descend early and my point of no return was stupidly low down.
@Dontbustthecrust
@Dontbustthecrust Жыл бұрын
@@StrikeEngine good question. It sucks but I guess it's learned from experience. Initially putting yourself out of your comfort zone and then realizing that wasn't so bad.
@CodaLucente
@CodaLucente Жыл бұрын
Maybe you. I tend to like going home at the end of the day. Been climbing for 25 years in the alps. Americans...
@AleksandarGospic
@AleksandarGospic Жыл бұрын
Pity you couldn't reach the summit of Mont Blanc because of that bergschrund but looks like you wouldn't make it before the clouds anyway so bergschrund saved you from an unnecessary effort :) But making it back to Midi from Mont Blanc du Tacul in 2h is crazy, you are machines :) Great video as always and kudos for helping that Russian!
@christyph3382
@christyph3382 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for helping out
@jk6561
@jk6561 Жыл бұрын
When you look at that terrain from the Midi it doesn't look that serious but it obviously is! Well Done Guys!
@richarddean2532
@richarddean2532 Жыл бұрын
God puts you in the right place at the right time. Great job guys. You guys are amazing and thank you for taking us on your adventures.
@ItaiGanor
@ItaiGanor Жыл бұрын
Great video guys!
@nealjoyce8696
@nealjoyce8696 Жыл бұрын
Well done guys 👏👏
@ianwood4406
@ianwood4406 Жыл бұрын
Hugely balled-up crampon at 9:19 ... Dude was so fortunate to meet you guys!
@13WhiteFang37
@13WhiteFang37 Жыл бұрын
Yup, and loose crampon fastener, perfect recipe for a disaster.
@triroli71
@triroli71 Жыл бұрын
Does he wear crampons without cleats (is this the right word for 'Stollplatten'?)? unbelievable
@michaelb1761
@michaelb1761 Жыл бұрын
Yep, noticed that too, but figured nothing bad came of it or the video wouldn't be posted.
@counterfit5
@counterfit5 Жыл бұрын
@@triroli71 usually called anti-balling plates in English
@harrisonaero
@harrisonaero Жыл бұрын
Nice edit and climb. Hilarious you climbed over the gate at the end :)
@miferna
@miferna Жыл бұрын
I have been to the Mont Blanc a few times through different routes. If you guys are up to the task (which I am pretty sure you are), I suggest you choose the Bionassay Arette route. You will not find as many people there and once you reach the Durier Hut, is all joy from there. Of course you will have to go down via the regular Gouter route, so be aware that you will need to manage the vehicle/bus combination. If you have a semi capable SUV or a true 4x4... you can start the route in the Chalets Du Miage and avoid some kms of dirt road. If you don't want to do arette climbing or the conditions are not good, go through Grand Mulets. The 4000's Route (Tacul, Maudit, Mont Blanc) is waaaaay to long to be enjoyable IMHO. Cool video and thanks for helping that russian guy. Seeing how he downclimbs I think we can all agree he was trying to do a route above his skill and fitness level. Mikel
@fastbloommessi7211
@fastbloommessi7211 Жыл бұрын
Wow rescuing a human what goodwill. Subscribed
@cyclingbutterbean
@cyclingbutterbean Жыл бұрын
My grandmother used to say you earn "stars in your crown" for good deeds done. You guys earned some serious hardware for your deeds with Andreas.....................................
@allenharris5397
@allenharris5397 Жыл бұрын
Many thanks for the Videos and humor 😂
@DannyClarkeVlog
@DannyClarkeVlog Жыл бұрын
Powered by good vibes for sure!!!! Throwing even more your way! Cheers
@jhet75
@jhet75 Жыл бұрын
Known as the Cosmic Route to Mont Blanc, that's a serious endeavour. I would always recommend having at least one guide going into that area. Everyone was lucky to come away.
@gerritdahlquist1653
@gerritdahlquist1653 Жыл бұрын
Great video. I noticed you guys holding the ropes on the glacier sometimes trying to keep it up off your feet. One trick I've done for this same problems is to put your main carabiner you use to clip into the rope through the two reinforced points on your harness where the belay loop goes. Old harnesses didn't even have a belay loop and this was the standard point to attack a carabiner and rope anyway. Dangling the carabiner from the belay loop loses a few key inches in height.
@jiggystardust
@jiggystardust Жыл бұрын
If there's a mediocre amateur NOPE it's a hard NOPE for anyone, glad you were able to assist. also learning about an open bergschrund and that is scary
@Charles-xe2qh
@Charles-xe2qh Жыл бұрын
Excellent video! You guys seems exceptionally fit. I could have done about a quarter of that! A dangerous decision by that Russian guy to be up there on his own!! Bravo for helping him! I was there maybe 10 years ago and I spoke with a local guide called Franck Chapon of Chamonix Sport Adventure. He said that even then the slopes on mountains like Mont Blanc du Tacul had gotten a lot steeper due to the snow melting away. It looks like it has got worse since then. I was surprised to see exposed rocks at the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul, I didn't think there were any. But it has been a very warm summer in the Alps I think!
@user-kl3lu7eu9f
@user-kl3lu7eu9f 9 ай бұрын
Gorgeous mountain
@judacrisable
@judacrisable Жыл бұрын
Love watching you guys progress in technical mountaineering
@Dontbustthecrust
@Dontbustthecrust Жыл бұрын
This was arguably a regression. Could've gone badly for the boys due to poor planning. Entertaining none the less.
@Fellmandave1
@Fellmandave1 Жыл бұрын
Happy memories for me of doing Mont Blanc du Tacul with almost zero acclimatisation, for many as a regional 4000m peak it's a key target. So to say you did not summit is doing that fine peak something of a disservice. Good job rescuing, a memory that will stay with you and I am sure the karma will come back. Mont Maudit has a reputation, just look at the translation. I was keen to do it at onetime but the British guide I was using was not at all!
@DNFADV
@DNFADV Жыл бұрын
Whoa what a serious angle 📐 . Good camera work conveyance.
@jtcollins2112
@jtcollins2112 Жыл бұрын
Good job guys.
@gohardinlife2
@gohardinlife2 Жыл бұрын
Breathtaking
@gerylagrande
@gerylagrande Жыл бұрын
So you abandon the russian guy who has clearly big problems to get to another less important summit, and then you leave him for good on the glacier while weather is changing because you somehow have to run to make it to the very "important" last gondola on Aiguille du Midi. You are exactly the kind of dudes i would like to climb Mount Everest with 🤣👍
@corneliasfudge
@corneliasfudge Жыл бұрын
I was worried they would twist an arm patting themselves on the back
@davidryan4454
@davidryan4454 Жыл бұрын
Personal responsibility ..... Russian was an idiot who broke the golden rule.
@donnydont
@donnydont Жыл бұрын
I don't get it, what were his options if he missed this gondola? Is he screwed?
@soolyOnE
@soolyOnE Ай бұрын
@@donnydont As said in the video, he had the cosmique hut near him. It's a refugio with food and beds.
@SileDevil
@SileDevil Жыл бұрын
that was a good call to go back, the weather did not look the best, i can see thick clouds were making their way down when you summited Maudit
@kaspareevald2264
@kaspareevald2264 Жыл бұрын
We managed to summit the same route during this summer. The conditions weren't great on the glacier and the huge crevasse was there too, but with really a crevasse beneath it. There were fix ropes needed and many anchors on the way up over the Maudit Col. But we managed it and got to the summit. The whole summit day took us 20 hours... which was really crazy in terms of endurance and fatigue. Arriving the Cosmique at 10PM in the evening was a big relief... Good luck!
@vinzenzboman607
@vinzenzboman607 11 ай бұрын
It took you 20 hours to the summit.. Amazing.. Last month it took me 8 hours to the summit and 4 hours to descend and I was very tired. I cannot imagine how it feels to walk 20 hours without a sleep.
@kaspareevald2264
@kaspareevald2264 11 ай бұрын
@@vinzenzboman607 Felt very challenging, especially the way down once you were very tired both physically and mentally, but had to be focused and firm. So, but now I’ve summited Mont Blanc two different routes and I’m bit proud too! 😄
@alexcoumailleau419
@alexcoumailleau419 Жыл бұрын
Shame a bout not summitting Blanc but the view from Tacul looked incredible!
@robfodder5575
@robfodder5575 Жыл бұрын
Good on you helping Andrei, but wow, talk about stretching one's capabilities😬You lads smashed it 🤜
@nobodyisbest
@nobodyisbest Жыл бұрын
Well done!
@tyronesmith4075
@tyronesmith4075 Жыл бұрын
Just found this channel. Really cool video. Have you given any thought to publishing a gear list for the trek?
@donovanbloom5943
@donovanbloom5943 Жыл бұрын
It wouldn't be a Mediocre Amateur video without yall having to run the last leg in order to make it back in time for something 😂. Loved the vid
@geoffcox75
@geoffcox75 Жыл бұрын
Just not clear what happened to Andreas after you made the "last" gondola?!
@eragon6946
@eragon6946 8 ай бұрын
That was so cool to watch! I was just wandering what boots did you use for Mont Blanc and would you recommend them?
@NameNaameNameeNaamee
@NameNaameNameeNaamee Жыл бұрын
Objectively, tackling Mont Blanc solo in the state it's in right now speaks of very bad judgement. Actually, tackling Mont Blanc right now in any scenario does as well. That Mountain as we know it is dying, and that process is immensly dangerous. Rocks the size of a house are coming down and glaciers are more treaturous than ever. But it's good to see that you made the right call and turned around. And good to help that poor guy out as well. Who knows, maybe it was his life long dream to do this, and being a used car salesman in russia will not put you into a position where you can fly out two friends into the alps with you. So we should have a bit compassion for that dude I think.
@tomh3189
@tomh3189 Жыл бұрын
@Mediocre Amateur - do you do most of your alpine adventures in the S/LAB XA Alpine? Version 1 or 2? Maybe you could do a review one day. Wondering what you think and where the limits of these shoes are...
@tahirrazzaq9494
@tahirrazzaq9494 Жыл бұрын
still surprises me this channel doesnt get millions of views!
@jl4921
@jl4921 Жыл бұрын
So @Danny... any Christmas presents for the audience? Nervously awaiting next video... 🎄🎁⛷📼
@cooperstewart549
@cooperstewart549 Жыл бұрын
What shoes do you guys use? Surprised your feet aren’t cold moving through snow in what look like trail runners that I’m assuming are waterproof at least?
@gantfrost7749
@gantfrost7749 Жыл бұрын
What kind of hiking shoes, or what brand do you use on the Matterhorn and Mt Blanc? They look nice and light weight.
@jonolson4884
@jonolson4884 Жыл бұрын
I miss the old crew. Blake is the best.
@riccardocaruso5537
@riccardocaruso5537 Жыл бұрын
I suggest you to climb Mont Blanc from Italy next year, it's a lot more beautiful and the climb is a lot more complete in terms of terrain!
@davegrenier1160
@davegrenier1160 Жыл бұрын
In 1980 I left the Midi after taking the last lift up, spent the early part of the night checking out some routes, and decided they weren't in shape (I was alone), and went back to the Midi and spent the night in the station. The next morning, one of the workers handed me a broom and I swept the floor to earn my overnight stay. (Also bivouacked that same year at the terminus of the Grands Montets lift prior to a late night/very early morning start to a solo climb of the Couturier Couloir of the Aig. Verte. Descended the Whymper Couloir in deteriorating conditions in the company of two Spanish climbers.)
@Mags120fish1
@Mags120fish1 Жыл бұрын
Incredible and great job helping out the Russian.
@domesticterrorist483
@domesticterrorist483 Жыл бұрын
The Brenva spur is a great route to the top. Did it 25 years ago. Probably in poor condition now. Poignant to see the Tacul face. Downclimbed it in the dark once after summiting via the Gervasutti pilar, also a top route. Lost a friend who slipped descending the Tacul with a French partner. Willie died as he fell from above the frenchie who tried to arrest the fall. Saved himself albeit with serious injuries. RIP Willie.
@seantoms4697
@seantoms4697 Жыл бұрын
Did you do the Col Moore start or the Gussefelt start and in what month , we went to do it in 19 but July was way out of conditions , we asked the conditions at the guides , they literally laughed while they said you are 2 months too late .
@domesticterrorist483
@domesticterrorist483 Жыл бұрын
@@seantoms4697 Col Moore in late June. All these classic snow/ice routes are now spring routes basically. I see why the guides laughed at you. Hope you get to do it somwe day. Or even better by the central Pillar de Freny.
@dylancolon5871
@dylancolon5871 Жыл бұрын
The Brenva is now considered extremely dangerous because of changes in the glacier. It's now very exposed to serac fall, and unfortunately people don't really bother with it anymore. Maybe someday those seracs will all fall off and the route will become safer again.
@brendonm.deverix8491
@brendonm.deverix8491 Жыл бұрын
one thing about the hiking/ climbing community that gave me a masterclass in humility. ive never met someone in the mountains not willing to help one another without hesitation and any time theres a chance for people to help one another, you'll only ever hear about how glad they were to stumble upon them and be of help. something ive gathered from being both the saved and the savior so to speak.
@user-zn5td2cp1u
@user-zn5td2cp1u Жыл бұрын
They did hesitate though - then they left him. The fact it was something they casually had to weigh up whether to help or not was disturbing to me.
@brendonm.deverix8491
@brendonm.deverix8491 Жыл бұрын
@@user-zn5td2cp1u when you’re in a group you owe it to the people to the side of you to have the conversation. Nothing is assumed. And they left him in good shape and he assured them he was okay. They also can’t allow this man to put their climbing safety at risk. Some random man not knowing what he’s doing on the mountain should not be the reason that others get into worse situations.
@user-sk9hl7si7l
@user-sk9hl7si7l 3 ай бұрын
​@@brendonm.deverix8491u need to catch what u preach here on mountain,let's see what your thoughts gon be if u make it. Helping each other worth more than your climb goal ,we are humans not animals
@solyarisoftware
@solyarisoftware Жыл бұрын
hey guys! I follow your nice video since a while. I appreciate the way of your fast scrambling etc. My curiosity: where are you from? Are you from New Zeland? Why in Alpes? Joking a part, I'm like curious HOW you bring water in your backpack. Seems to me interesting how the guy with the beard has the water bottle. Is it a pocket on the backpack or a an external container applied on the shoulder shoulder strap? Any info about the product you use is welcome. Thanks
@puffthemagiclepton7534
@puffthemagiclepton7534 Жыл бұрын
Awesome video! How was using the Petzl RAD system?
@kevinw1129
@kevinw1129 Жыл бұрын
First time I’ve seen the amateurs bite off more than they can chew. Very technical snow/ice climbing. Good for helping the Russian guy though.👏👏
@varunkantamneni
@varunkantamneni Жыл бұрын
Hello Danny! I loved your show "100 Miles From Nowhere". It shows that there are 8 episodes in that series but all streaming services only show 4. What happened to the other 4 episodes? Is there any way to watch them in the US?
@eaglesfannnn
@eaglesfannnn Жыл бұрын
Poor Danny haha, I bet his reoccurring dreams are about just this kind of scenario!
@weichentechnikk8083
@weichentechnikk8083 Жыл бұрын
I wonder if Aaron ever felt cold in those Scarpa Rush boots as they are considered a quite light hiker for such mountain. I have them but I am a bit worried about using them in conditions like those. Weren't they soaked in the end ?
@ivo_picha
@ivo_picha Жыл бұрын
Maybe it is not my business to comment but I think you have way too much slack on the rope on many of the steep sections. The point of being roped up on terrain where there is a risk of falling is that if the rope is almost straight then if someone falls the person above them can easily stop the fall. If god forbid one of you guys fell on some of the steep sections where you have a lot of hanging rope between you then what I can imagine would happen is the person falling would gather enough speed to take down the person above as well and then you have double the trouble. Please correct me if I am wrong!
@Larock-wu1uu
@Larock-wu1uu Жыл бұрын
Thought the same...
@dylancolon5871
@dylancolon5871 Жыл бұрын
To be honest even with a tight rope a fall would be extremely hard to hold on slopes that steep and icy. You are really counting on your partners to not fall if you're not placing pickets or screws.
@bryanclark3693
@bryanclark3693 Жыл бұрын
The Alps are cool but any plans to run up the Great White Fright or Assiniboine?
@rtpcannon
@rtpcannon Жыл бұрын
I’m dying to know - how do you guys carry water or refill? I always see the bottle + carrier but your packs seem so efficient I’m just curious what your water situation usually is
@Orengelol
@Orengelol Жыл бұрын
what type of waterproof pants do you guys wear? thanks :)
@farbeyonddriven8173
@farbeyonddriven8173 Жыл бұрын
Even when you do make a tram your jumping the gate ❤
@offpiste312
@offpiste312 Жыл бұрын
Should’ve done the Dent du Geant Hahaha @ the solo Russian, every mountain has one
@alexklein7826
@alexklein7826 Жыл бұрын
Been waiting for this video since you told the story on News AF!
@Spraypainsos
@Spraypainsos Жыл бұрын
I just listened to the episode right when this came out, haha.
@yololoyo3376
@yololoyo3376 Жыл бұрын
what is news af?
@Spraypainsos
@Spraypainsos Жыл бұрын
@@yololoyo3376 Comedic weird news podcast that Danny is on.
@yololoyo3376
@yololoyo3376 Жыл бұрын
@@Spraypainsos thanks for the answer, will check it out :)
@senderismomontana5946
@senderismomontana5946 Жыл бұрын
What a bunch of interesting videos you have here, you climb like sheep!
@Mars_Life_and_Beings
@Mars_Life_and_Beings Жыл бұрын
that was the most fear I've seen from you tough guys. I mean it is Mont Blanc.
@milkdrinker5966
@milkdrinker5966 Жыл бұрын
Wauw, I didn't know such crevasse rich terrain existed in the alps
@leomora26
@leomora26 Жыл бұрын
Hey. What is that pack on the front? Looks like a nice an accesible front pocket. Thanks.
@A-Aa-ron
@A-Aa-ron Жыл бұрын
It's from Raidlight. The pocket is convenient, but makes taking the pack on and off a hassle. Can't say I'm sold on the setup.
@bills2742
@bills2742 Жыл бұрын
What footwear are you guys in? Are those gaitored runners? Or lightweight boots?
@Mdogbrown
@Mdogbrown Жыл бұрын
Hey sir. So you use a watch to record your activities? If so, what do you use and/or recommend for trail navigation? Thanks
@dkali7167
@dkali7167 Жыл бұрын
You guys are siiiiick
@davidwright7193
@davidwright7193 Жыл бұрын
This summer seems to have been one for rock routes. The Valley Blanche has a remarkable lack of Blanche
@spectator9211
@spectator9211 Жыл бұрын
I've done this exact hodgepodge route several years ago. Always a good idea to go solo when your team thinks there are too many crevasses. /sarcasm
@paddlefaster
@paddlefaster Жыл бұрын
Good call turning back that move looked sketchy as hell.
@puregreekweed
@puregreekweed Жыл бұрын
Bro, your videos are amazing .. i just found you
@0hn0haha
@0hn0haha Жыл бұрын
Me being a dirty Ruskie myself I wholeheartedly support your new Russian saving endeavors
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