MOPAR 383 CHRYSLER DYNO SESSION

THIS IS A DYNO SESSION OF A MOPAR 383 CHRYSLER ENGINE.

[@NipkowDisk]

The '62-71 383 IMO was one of the best engines they ever made- free-revving like a small-block and put out torque like a big-block. One of the funnest mills to have, period. I had one in a '65 Coronet 500 and that car hauled caboose.

[@strattuner]

had a 383 in my challenger,1970, model it was a beater,got 18-19 mpg using the thermo quad carb,had 268-284-474 lift cam,cut off one coil on the vacuum piston spring in the carb,both sides,allows a lean idle due to less spring pressure,this is one of our better motors,383 is bulletproof

[@oldguywisdom2904]

I had a 70 charger 383 magnum four speed. Raced that car a lot. Street and strip. Pulled 105 mph in third gear

[@dcbluez4883]

My 69 Road Runner, bought stock off the lot in 73, cost 9,000 beautiful condition. 1st 65 mph, 2nd 85, 3rd 105, 4th, well you get the picture. All stock, 4 barrel. Speeds below redline, around 5k. What a beautiful sound this car had.

[@MrColdwatercanyon]

Bet third pulled hard

[@oldguywisdom2904]

My 70 charger was the same. Still got 18 mpg

[@docfischer7291]

Nothing beats the old TM6 and a purple cam, but I also favor the company Elgin with a very similar design camshaft that will allow 5800 rpm easily and they seem l To like as much timing as you can throw at them . I run 400 low decks now but even the combo in my fathers old ‘68 formula S it was a screamer . Held records at Englishtown for a while under a new owner with the same engine . Now that same engine sits in my Uncles ‘64 Polara .

[@bricub72]

turn the darn music off so we can hear you

[@jmark50]

Nice video. Nice shop. I have a 1968 383 in my 1966 Charger. Thanks.

[@zanone270]

Top radiator hose damn near crimped it’s a wonder you didn’t burn it up

[@Ynzevdz]

I noticed a sharp bend on the upper 'radiator' hose...let's hope it got enough coolant during the test runs...

[@clarkinthedark1]

First thing I noticed

[@facelvegahk5001]

Thabks again Hermond

[@dynodon100]

Don't let them get to you Mopar engines are the best !! I am allmost 60 and have been racing them for years. I now have a 1968 cuda coupe that I will have a fresh 383 in by race time,a 440 is on the drawing board. And yes total timing is what counts on yours 38 total should do fine.Keep on racing!

[@unicornwolfteam718]

Hum. Put up a boss 351 against a 383 any day.

[@scottwheaton9689]

@@unicornwolfteam718 with all in the build lvl of both motors being approx the same in same wt car with like gearing & trans etc the 383 mopar will smoke the Ford boss 351,PERIOD!

[@byronstephen2044]

One of my favorite tunes of Brooks & Dunn

[@vuitinh2]

straigten out that water pump Hose, so it cools properly. wth ...ha ha

[@danielmccoy8875]

Sounds sweet

[@codeman3258]

I have a 383 in my 83' dodge pickup, i have to say i love it. but 8 miles to the gallon kinda sucks but its worth it.

[@timgilbert1350]

A thumbs up since I own one just like it.

[@SSBarracuda]

Music is always blaring at my shop especially on Saturday. That's the way I roll.

[@NipkowDisk]

There is truly no sound quite like the MoPar 383. I had one in my '65 Coronet 500. The 383 "B" engines rev freely like a small-block and put out torque like a big-block. It was one engine Chrysler should have definitely continued producing for RWD vehicles..

[@williamthomas8130]

had a 1970 Cuda 383 magnum big block it must have been built on a Wed because when I raced other car Chevys and Fords they just come close in the 1/4 mi even with bigger motors .Loved that car but 7.5 to 8 mpg was kinda bad .Don't know what they in the build that day but it was good for me.

[@chrismc.4437]

Power/Torque? We give up on guessing.

[@strattuner]

steel crank,steel rods.external oil pump.waterless manifold,front mounted distributor,torque out of west hell, no matter what you do to it ,it responds,oh yeah cheap replacement parts,made 3 million of them,i'm sold

[@chrismc.4437]

You are a bullshitter lol

[@jamesharrison6201]

Just noticed, what's with the Holly? Where's the thermoquad?

[@doacarnage]

There was a big barn fan in the wall behind the engine

[@cacaotree70]

Make sure that your Distributor slots are not the long ones and then remove the heavy spring and stretch the lighter one! Go ahead and bump your timing up to 16 or 18 degrees for starters... Tune in the carb after that with a vacuum gauge setting the fuel mixture screws to there highest vacuum reading....

[@stevodakine1]

It was hard to hear what the stats were. But I was able to kind tell what the dial numbers where. Looked about 350-400hp I’m really interested to know what the torque was. And what cam it had. Flat tap too?

[@davsaltego]

Water hose was kinked

[@SSBarracuda]

Good question I really don't know. My guess the dyno is a couple years newer.

[@pholbenedict7668]

Get a performance trends data acquisition system. No more nodding and writing. I have a Stuska d800 with pt data aq and depac adl lite control works well for me. Crude compared to high $$ stuff but effective

[@Dethmeister]

So what were the results? Also what kind of radio station plays Brooks and Dunn and Manfred Mann?

[@kj197734]

That is not Brooks and Dunn! This is the original song by B. W. Stevenson.

[@checkmate440]

kj197734 You know your music good job.

[@DeanMk1]

My Maria. Remember it well. =)

[@71bee383]

Nice ol' B engine! I would toss that POS Holley 4160 carb however. if your gonna use a Holley, definitely go with a 650 cfm 4150 double pumper. those vacuum operated secondaries are trouble.

[@SendinK9]

Open headers indoors? Hope you guys had exhaust hoses hooked up. WANTED!!! I am looking for a crate 383 or 361 totally stock engine for my 1982 Dodge Ram van. Need a long block but if someone has a short block with the heads, that may be doable. Needs to be new or a balanced rebuilt. The engine in there now runs great, but has 275 k on it. My Dad bought the van new and changed the oil and filter every 4 k. I feel better with a new engine because now I will be towing a trailr across country

[@facelvegahk5001]

thanks for it and see the mail that i have send you

[@SSBarracuda]

Jap intakes have very long runners compared to American intakes and none were dual plane. Chrysler used 30 plus inch long straight runners on some of their engines with superior torque. I guess everybody forgot about those. The straighter the runner and the longer the better. It helps all ranges of torque! There is not one dual plane that can come close to any single plane in torque at any RPM range especially at the higher range. 60's Hotrod magazines proves this, the 70's was all commercial!

[@facelvegahk5001]

also I am searching for a Small Block for V8 ngine 289 or 302?

[@goandy89]

what happened to the origanal dual 4 barrle dominators carb setup and intake?

[@70moparbaby]

am not sure what youre getting at? i could be wrong, but i think edelbrock who makes the torquer manifold agrees that theyre not torque monster manifolds so much as high rpm intakes. but i may be wrong on that ill check.

[@Mr273commando]

And lose that intake! leaven alot of low end TQ on the table! those old edelbrock single planes have been mowed over time & time again by the proformer RPM intake in HP & TQ everytime.

[@d1bigshifter737]

Did i miss the numbers what did it put out ??? What was the cfm of the carb ? They love 750 on up.

[@mikelagaffe]

would you recommend this type of engine to put in a 99 dodge dakota i'm going to modify it to do Amateur drag racing and i don't know what engine would be best.

[@fourstar7]

what are the damn dyno numbers?

[@71superbee3]

Yeah. "Yep. We have more torque than expected". Nothing like a mystery, eh?

[@richardprice5978]

i have a stock one non HP block what it the max RPM / red line that is safe ?

[@rikelprice]

Factory redline was 5500. If you have a factory single point distributor, it will probably start bouncing the points and fluttering the ignition there anyway. I wouldn't go there for long or often without changing the oil pump (which is on the outside, thank you Chrysler) to a high volume pump. Oiling is really the weak link on big block Chryslers. The ignition is easily converted to a Mopar Performance electronic distributor. 383's have always been my "thing." Check out my dyno pull vid. Enjoy your toy.

[@aloysius254]

The 383 shares the same head as the 440. Looking at the intake, it was a Torquer, it would have been over kill for a stock cam.

[@jamesharrison6201]

The 383 magnum in the roadrunner/superbee used the 440 heads. Otherwise, the 383 had different heads

[@1972ratbat53]

Why didn't you test a 340 and why not put 440 heads on the 383 and a 440 cam?

[@nathanthomasstickney8123]

440 383 use same heads numb nuts

[@musefan117]

i heard 394 at 5,500 RPM

[@NisMopar06]

What were the results?

[@RacerRickxx]

So what did the engine make? I couldn't here it over the background noise.

[@dodge-io7gd]

damn music turn it off wth

[@reginaldhall6871]

Did I hear 334? Why do a test if you aren't going to post the results?

[@SSBarracuda]

It's the video that counts. The results make it cheesy. Sorry you don't understand

[@70moparbaby]

I heard 294 as the highest one I think

[@zeekzimmerman8755]

i noticed your timing mark is at the bottom of the metal toothy looking piece, is that where i should be reading or twords the middle?

[@facelvegahk5001]

Hi Hermon, Many Thanks for your help. If I can help y in anythings please feel free. Madeira Porttugal

[@BuzzLOLOL]

Looks just like the Pontiac 400 he dyno'd... no numbers there, either...

[@matthewstephen6713]

What were the stats on the dyno ?

[@prestonjan]

@tommyau2006 no there havin fun quit hatin

[@chrismc.4437]

She sounds healthy but what are your results??? Lol please tell me you're not running a purple shaft cam??

[@facelvegahk5001]

tks Hermon, wher I can find the engine munber on mu engine?

[@SSBarracuda]

On a flat pad by the distributor hole.

[@facelvegahk5001]

Hi, I am Trying to rebuilt a 383 Chrysler, froma Facel Vega. I will need to have some adress to buy a rebult kit. I live in Europa. Tks

[@SSBarracuda]

enginekits.com The company name is Powerhouse in Bakersfield CA. Good people.

[@facelvegahk5001]

Hi Hermoon, do you know where I can find a workshop manual for this engine? Regards

[@SSBarracuda]

Haynes has a good one. You can find them on Ebay. Look up Chrysler Engine Overhaul Manual

[@SSBarracuda]

Timing was perfect as to what the engine wanted! That is the reason for dynoing an engine! An engine dyno is used to figure maximum performance and it does not lie!!!!!! All other info is based on old mechanics tales and is worthless!

[@driver1823]

hermon munster stupid dumb ass video

[@Cservoss25]

my marie-eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee-eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee-eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeia

[@SSBarracuda]

lmao many people complained but that what is exactly what i wanted to do. music and work. whats wrong with that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@richardprice5978]

whats red line ? non HP block

[@rickmytys6316]

you didn't even give how much power its putting out give me a break

[@hotwheel6663]

How bout it? Silly as shit

[@spencnaz]

Timing should be 10 degrees BTDC at 700rpm for stock settings. Piss off zmranr.

[@tonywestvirginia]

Imported from Detroit!

[@Boredout454]

One thing I will say, and dont take it wrong. Thats kinda a dangerous setup Id really hate it if an engine let go while you guys are standing right there.

[@SSBarracuda]

I normally don't reply but this is truly necessary. What you know is based on hotrod magazine and what other people told you. Absolutely and totally false. THE DYNO DOES NOT LIE! Intake manifold mfgs. do. I will prove this. The best street manifold---> tunnel rams! Found this out on the dyno. I probably have tested more street engines than anybody else and that is actually sad because independently, nobody actually tests low buck engines. Tunnel intakes produce more bottom end torque. see next

[@chrismc.4437]

You sound like a bullshitter whose spent to much time reading old magazines. Fuck off lol

[@rroberts383]

You dont set timing stock, stock is emissions, and shit. set it to the highest power output

[@EdVidz]

Water hose looks kinked closed.

[@55chevytruck]

How con a carb be gay?

[@Dirthauler65]

Points??? Nobody uses points anymore. Sounds like a nice job on the rebuild, but those points have to go lol.

[@farmerman98]

there aint nothn' that sounds like a dodge!!!! :)

[@70moparbaby]

I might add, the name "torker" is rather misleading.

[@70moparbaby]

agreed, that intake isn't gonna help anything but a drag racer with everything else to go with it.

[@paralyzes]

What? Looked interesting, but quit watching after 10 seconds. If I wanted music I’d switch on M-TV.

[@zorpit]

Headers, holley, no water pump, no accessories sounds like a cam in it. Not too impressed.

[@jasonconklin8172]

great idea but flow not close sb vs big bl9ck should bored 383 a lil ran bb 400 chev sb vs small not close comparison limp test !

[@ThePaulv12]

Get rid of that stupid manifold and carb combo, as well as the point distributor. Since you have a dyno then an 850DP could be properly tuned to the camshaft. This motor sounds like it has the 284/484/68 on 108deg lobe centers (or the 509 grind) camshaft and it is too much for that carb and ignition. With that cam this motor should easily do 6500rpm. They have a very short stroke these things. Additionally that manifold is very ordinary, the M1 SP is much better - however I note the video is 8 years old lol; I'll crawl back in my hole now.

[@SSBarracuda]

+ThePaulv12 Actually those intakes make more bottom end power than dual plane intakes! Years of testing has proven that. Please remember that companies that make performance street products are very self-serving in their advertisements

[@ThePaulv12]

Well not compared to the old MP dual plane or the MP M1 single plane. That does do okay I guess if you've got a used car salesman mentality to engine building; I had one on a 440 and it was good. It was not bad to about 5500 but it was out of plenum beyond that. You see you might as well have an M1 single plane and pick up mid range torque, throttle response and it still goes 5500. I can hardly see the point when you could buy a properly designed secondhand manifold rather than a generic design adapted to to the B or RB engine that relies on luck rather than testing to get results. Just my 2c.

[@RacerRickxx]

My dyno testing showed the opposite. The Torker 383 made good midrange power, but the plenum was too small for good top end power, and the short runners were not as good for bottom end power. The best all around intake right now for a B engine is probably the performer RPM, followed by the older DP4B. I have a torker on a car downstairs right now - its coming off.

[@ThePaulv12]

Yeah my Torker was on a 440 so the design might differ on a 383, but on my 383 (which I had after I sold my 440) I had a Thermoquad on the factory iron Thermoquad intake, with the same MP performance cam I mentioned above (+ matching springs), some headers with re curved factory electronic ignition and that motor still revved 6500, had stump pulling mid range torque and impressive bottom end. Those iron factory manifolds are excellent in all areas except weight. In fact I had top be careful not to over rev the 383 if it broke traction. It was heaps of fun to drive.

[@SSBarracuda]

BITCH if you had a dyno you would know what the timing was for this engine. I hate stupid people!!!

[@timgilbert1350]

Pros don't use Music to show their shit. Good Video except for the tunes couldn't listen to both.

[@timgilbert1350]

Sure fucking am bud need a little advice let me know @ Blowme.com

[@musefan117]

332 at like 3200

[@nathanthomasstickney8123]

333

[@Mr69barracuda]

@ +hermon munster , I like a Man that tests a Low $$ engines! "Kudo's to YOU!" For that reason I have Q's for you. I found your vid because I am about to rebuild a Mopar 383 that might hold it's own on the strip with some mpg on the street. I am wanting 450 street-able HP from 1500 ~ 65000 (Will never go that high?) with a fairly even torque/ HP curve as Edle's I have been reading this and that ~ blog this- blog that, for so long i think i have a picture and would like to know what you think of it. I originally purchased a 2400 stall, but was told it wouldn't low rpm up the hills around here (Oregon) so i returned it for a 2000 Stall. I have the 906 heads. & I have purchased Edel's "RPM" 7186 intake, Edel's 1411 Carb. (650? I know small but wanting some low street-able perf and leave some fuel in the tank with the abillity to bolt on a larger carb and GO DOWN the strip!) and am considering Match making? Edel's 7194 performer rpm camshaft.But everybody is saying go with the purple mopar 484/284 camshaft? The engine will prolly get a 0.20 over with Keith Black flat lugs and appears to be a low deck 68 block as the pistons "Look" even with deck now and what looks like OEM non bored (No Over B stamps) Flat T forged slugs (Hoping for somewhere's around 10.5 to 11:1 comp? (I have never performance built, just R&R overhauls) I will be running 1 3/4 Long as posible header with 3 1/2 collectors as this is getting stuffed into a 69 A-body Notchback 'cuda. Jegs built-street strip A727 / 8 3/4 rear with 2:76 &"New Suregrip". if the 2:76 ring will bolt and match on the Suregrip? If I have to buy Ring an pin I will go with 3:23> Any advise would be GREATLY appreciated before I go in TOO deep as I have already melted my plastic. TY in advance.

[@SSBarracuda]

+#Kids #Giffs and #funny stuff I think the combo is nice. Not much difference between the two cams. I think converting to a 518 4 speed auto would be the best way to get power and mpg.

[@RacerRickxx]

Your combo will not be anywhere near 450hp, and your entire setup is mismatched. The cams are not even close to each other in lobe intensity or design - completely forget the Edelbrock cam as its not a good design using really old lobes. Your gears are completely wrong, as is your converter, for your cam and weight of car. Also, at 450hp your cam timing is going to be pretty raunchy with only a 383 cubic inches, and you are going to have to really RPM the motor. Your flat top pistons will not give 10.5 or 11:1 without severe milling of the heads. Also, with the really tall gears, you will be lugging the engine which will cause it to ping on pump fuel unless you pull a ton of timing which will kill the power. Aim for a true 9.5:1 compression which is easy with flat tops and shim gaskets. Spend a little extra and get a good quality forged pistons. Probe makes reasonably priced ones that are a nice and light. Don't use the KB's in this motor as they are VERY sensitive to detonation, and they shatter like glass when they fail. Get the motor balanced with a good set of rod bolts and moly rings for the pistons. Stock main and head bolts are find here. I would use narrow full groove or 3/4 groove main bearings, and stock style rod bearings. Use a decent trimetal bearing. The stock rods are very strong. If you use your 906 heads, replace the valves, as they are a three piece design that is weak, and after 40+ years are probably fatigued. I would use the inexpensive hemi style valve spring and go with either the Isky 280 Mega, or the MP 284/484. A single pattern cam won't hurt here much as your exhaust system is much better than your intake setup. Stock rockers and push rods are fine here if they are in good shape, and straight. Heavy duty rocker shafts with banana grooves are nice here, but not necessary. You can open up the oil pickup to 1/2" which is a nice upgrade, and run at least one of the 5 quart pans. Make sure you use a windage tray. The MP one is on back order, but the Sumit brand one that is nylon with a captured gasket actually works pretty good also, and s availble. If you do get a MP windage tray, use a hammer and dolly and open up the louvres. They are almost closed from MP. They also don't bother to deburr the windage tray, so do that also. A stock volume oil pump with a 6 pack spring (60psi spring) is adequate here also. A high volume pump will suck the pan dry with only a 5 quart pan. You need at least a 7 quart pan for a high volume pump, because big block mopars don't drain oil back very well. Make sure you use a heavy duty oil pump drive as the stock ones have a habit of breaking off the hex after many years of use. At least replace it, and check the bushing in the block. If you want, you can MP template port the heads, which would bring the flow up to somewhere around 225-230cfm on the intake if you do a nice job, and use back cut valves. A good quality 3 angle valve job is needed no matter what you do. Make sure they blend the bowl cut into the bowl if they leave sharp edges. If you heads are beat - check out the 440source aluminium heads. They might be cheaper than fully rebuilding a set of stockers, if the stockers need guides and seats. They also flow better and have the smaller 74cc chamber, which will bump you up to around 10.5 to one compression which is fine on the aluminium heads. You have a very good intake, and the carb will be ok here. I prefer the 1406 over the 1411 as it is calibrated richer from the factory and usually is just a rod change away from being very good on a mild modded motor like this. There is probably 15-20hp being left on the table that a good Holley 750 with a proform body would unlock. Get 1 7/8" long tube headers for power. Check to see what headers will fit your A-body. Most won't work with power steering , or column shift. But on the low deck, most B-body headers will fit if you are manual steering, and floor shifter, with only a couple dings. The mopar performance orange box kit works well and is reasonably priced. A MSD 6 setup would also be a good setup. If you car is not lightend, and is running a big block, 727, and 8.75 rear, you will be around 3500-3600lbs with driver. Your 2.76 gears are garbage. They are really not good for your combo. Get a set of 3.55's. You might get away with 3.23's if you run a really short tire. I would go with the 3.55's and a good converter with a stall around 2800. I recommend Dynamic converters but be warned that the are not cheap. However the proper converter is critical and tell Dynamic your engine specs and what you want to do and let him spec the converter. Run the biggest cooler you can, and run it after the radiator cooler. As recommended below, an adaptor kit, and 518 automatic overdrive would help. Then I would run a 4.10 rear gear and let the overdrive take it down to about 3:1 on the highway. Make sure you have a lockup converter and its working if you do this. However this is a several thousand dollar endeavour ( they only made the 518 for small blocks) and requires hacking up your car as the fat overdrive tail shaft housing doesn't fit in the stock A body trans tunnel, and you would need a custom trans cross member. I would buy the 440Source Stealth heads before this upgrade. This combo should make over 400hp, and be mild enough to drive daily. I just finished building almost this exact combo (the primer on the engine is drying right now before it gets color tomorrow). 64' 383 block that is 30 over with flat tops and a true 9.5:1 compression, 452 heads with new valves, and no port work, hemi springs, stock rockers, shafts,hold downs and pushrods, an old Edelbrock DP4B intake, 1406 Edelbrock carb, TTI headers, MP ignition, MP wind-age tray, 5 quart oil pan, and its been balanced, with the MP rod bolts. Cam is the Isky 280 duration hydraulic. Dead simple, powerful, and reliable combo that has been around forever. Last one like this I dyno'd made just over 400hp. It really could use a larger carb as it was pulling almost 2" of vacuum at higher rpm, with the edelbrock 600cfm carb. The larger MP 284 cam should make more top end power with a little less bottom end torque. Now to get 450hp with 906 heads on a 383, you are getting out of what would be considered a budget build. The motor is going to have to see some RPM to be able to process enough air for that much power. I would be looking at a solid lifter cam or a hydralic roller, and supporting valve train to start with, which immediately adds a lot of cost.

[@Mr69barracuda]

KK well it must be nice to be able to afford to build "What you WANT" I know my rear gear are WAY too high and I THOUGHT they were 3.23 when i bought the 489 for $150 .. but i was wrong. still a deal on 489 (I installed a Sure Grip ) I will eventually buy 3.23 and wish to build accordingly. The torque converter has been changed out for a 18-2000 stall.The onlt purchases made are the intake "Torker RPM", 2000 stall, Trans A-727 (I'm not going to cut her up.. and I looked into a locking torque & 518 etc before i made My choice), rear gears will be 3.23 or even 3.55 later down the road. I have or will have 0-deck flat tops or flycut for a larger cam (?) I really don't car about compression I just want low to mid torque & HP without giving too much up on top. I however am building this car on my credit card currently at 50% . This hot rod mag article is what makes me think I can get 450 cheaply and a fairly even curve all the way through. How real is this? www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/mopp-0209-383-engine-restore/

[@RacerRickxx]

Its all about the combination - not just the engine. And your combination is not good for performance. This was a pretty cheap motor, I used a set of 383 magnum replacement pistons that I got super cheap, so the pistons are cast but at this HP level, it doesn't matter. I did have to buy a new oil pan as the one on the engine was rusted, so that cost be an additional $100. I paid $100 for the used intake. It cost me $250 for the bore and hone, I didn't have it balanced since I used stock replacement pistons, and the head rebuilt was $300 + the parts which ended up being another $250. 383 30 over pistons (9.5:1 compression with 452 heads) - $80 Ring and Bearing rebuild kit - $200 (complete gasket kit with turkey tray, moly rings, narrow groove main bearings, standard rod bearings ) Camshaft and lifters - Isky 280Mega - $240 "Hemi" springs - $60 New one piece valves - $160 Timing set - $40 Oil pump - $120 Oil pickup - $16 Oil pan - $100 Rod Bolts - $60 Intake - $100 Windage tray - $35 = $1211 in parts Bore and hone - $250 Resize rods and replace bolts - $80 Turn crank - $150 Rebuild heads with 3 angle valve job - $300 =$780 So, in total this motor cost me just over $2000. It adds up fast. Its going into my 67' Belvedere, which is a stick shift ( 5 speed overdrive) with a 4.10 rear gear. I had a really nice condition set of 452 heads, so I used them which kept machine work costs down. They only received a basic rebuild with new valves and springs. They did get a 3 angle valve job as the shop I used always done them, and the new valves came back cut already. The reason I tell you this is that If your 906 heads are tired, you can end up with over $1000 in them just the get them back into good condition. Valves, springs, guides, seats, facing, adds up quickly. Get a quote from the machine shop before you get them built. If its anywhere near $1000, just get the 440Source Stealth heads. They are new, have smaller chambers, are already assembled, and they have long since fixed any issues they had with them. They also cost $1000 which makes them a bargain if your original castings need extensive work. Not to mention they flow much better than stock heads which will make more power. In my motors, I only use cast or forged pistons - no Hypereutectic. They are very sensitive to detonation and shatter like glass when they fail. Not a place you want to scrimp. Especially since with your combo, you will be lugging the motor, which makes it likely or detonation to happen. Plus the forged pistons are only $100 more that the Hypers. Don't forget to rebalance, which adds another $250 - which you need to do with anything but stock replacement pistons. Your 2000 stall converter is less than the factory put behind a 383 4 barrel, so you are going in the wrong direction. The stock converter is about 2500 stall. Spend the money for a custom converter from a mopar specialist. It is one of the most important components of the car. I went through 4 converters before getting a custom one for my Dart - huge difference - like 4mph, and 3 tenths in the quarter difference over the previous best one and it had the same stall rating. Definitely worth the money as it was much more street able also. Now, lets look at the Enginemasters 383. The engine master motor is not a budget build. That hydraulic roller cam adds about $2000 in parts and machine work - you will need to get the conversion roller lifters($540) and cam ($315), pushrods ($70), adjustable roller rocker arms ($659), Double springs ($202 plus the machining costs in the heads), the matching retainers and locks (~$100) - just to run that cam. Not to mention the $900 carburetor. You are saying you want more power than they made (450hp vs 440hp) but on a budget. There is an old saying: cheap, powerful, reliable - pick two, because you won't be getting the third. So, figure out your budget - and that will really guide you on how much reliable, streetable power you can make. I just showed you an old school, proven, reliable way to make 400hp for cheap. Its basically a 383 Magnum with intake, carb, cam, and headers.

[@Mr69barracuda]

Gfdf Perte yah I kinda got that right out the gate, when he said the engine was #'s matching #LMAO