Off-Grid DIY Camper Electrical System | Start to Finish Install | Victron Components

[@ApteraPioneer]

Glad you came back. You are doing such great work AND have the gift to explain it to novices. Really like the copper bar idea.

[@MoserMakes]

I appreciate that - thank you!

[@Heinrichhattingh]

Cut the spacers with the Sawstop, that's what it's there for. Just get a featherboard and make a pushstick for the narrow pieces. Love your channel, thanks for this video, learned allot and so much more informative and practical than 99.9% of all the others.

[@niccaws]

Clearest tutorial I’ve seen yet! Nice one! From the other side of the pond.

[@clayjohnson3294]

Nice to see you back. Great work!

[@millerputnam3873]

Great videos, glad I’m getting back to your channel.

[@CrimpKeeper]

Love your content brah. Glad to see you posting again.

[@AAkCN1]

Good to see you giving advice on this. You always have top notch vids. Thx

[@Z-add]

How many parallel branches does the battery manufacture recommends

[@EdgarTu-pk3gs]

Love your attention to detail

[@MoserMakes]

Thanks!!

[@adco]

Thanks for sharing your expertise!!

[@nikkithuillier5519]

Lovely neat work, thanks for educating me!

[@Cragdognamedbear]

Do you have a reason for having ypur battery cutoff switch on the positive side? Ive heard its actually better to put it on the negative side.

[@silvanocometta9760]

Perfect job and very well done explanation.

[@scoopold]

Bookmarked!! Love these new videos!

[@chasing_sunsets_somewhere]

What thickness of plywood did you use to support the weight of the 3000w inverter

[@shameelali2549]

Hi how is the draw and charge balance on each battery?

[@christophercollins4548]

Hi Sam, great electrical & time lapse videos on her to peruse. If you weren't so far away, I might even employ you to do the wiring in my van! A couple of questions spring to mind with regards to the electrical videos: 1). Why 2 * DC-DC Chargers? Isn't 1 enough for the voltage coming from the alternator?? 2). Is it better to use a smaller number of larger batteries (3 * 200aH) or a larger number of smaller batteries (6 * 100aH)? Although the larger batteries will cost around 10% more, the saving in cables & simplicity would probably cancel that out?? 3). What about using nyloc nuts for the connections or do these have a problem with current transfer?? Thanks for the help Sam! Keep the videos coming! :)

[@MoserMakes]

Howdy and thanks! 1) I used two DC-DC chargers just to get more alternator charging amperage as at the time the 30A was the biggest DC-DC Victron was making... BUT no Victron makes a 50A version of the Orion so that would be a great alternative to the dual 30A chargers. 2) I would say go for a smaller number of larger batteries if you can find a configuration that works for what you want. Less cabling/connections makes it easier to setup and will probably be a little more efficicent (probably less voltage drop as each connection adds some resistance). The only thing to watch out for using a lower number of larger batteries is that the max current output may be less (as each battery has a specific max) but in most cases it should still be sufficient for a setup like this. 3) Nyloc nuts should be fine. The nut is just to keep it fastened down and the current transfer should mainly be happening through the contact between the bottom of the lug and the mating surface underneath. A lot of these components come with provided hardware (the Victron lynx or the battery monitor shunt for example) and they come with just a normal nut and split lock washer.

[@Z-add]

Victron doesn't make a solar plus alternator charger like renogy

[@BillDaly-eu1yf]

Thank you so much for this video. I noticed you used 40 Amp fuses for your 30Amp DC to DC chargers. I have a 50 Amp Renogy DC to DC charger with MPPT. Does that mean I should use a 60 Amp fuse?

[@MoserMakes]

Yes, I'd recommend a 60A fuse for a 50A charger so that you have a little headroom.

[@JasonHayes2011]

Great video, very intuitive

[@JonHiggins2112]

Hi Sam, thank you for the informational video, I have an empty Sprinter 2500 that I am starting to engineer a plan to have ready for next summer. I really love this electrical controls set up and I have a question. Forgive me if this is covered in another video but I’ve just started learning this process. There seems to be a huge different in costs of the different brands of the Lithium ion batteries. Does this control system work well with any brand? And what makes one brand so much more expensive than another? Thanks again for the great video, and I plan to watch more!

[@MoserMakes]

Hi! For a system like this the kind of lithium battery you want is a LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate chemistry). Any of those with a builtin BMS (which is most (only certain ones require an external BMS)) will work swapped into this setup. As you’ve seen you’ll find battery that span the range of prices. For the most part you get what you pay for but there are some better values out there. SOK batteries are a good balance of price vs quality. Battle borns are really nice if you want top quality and warranty. If you want a good budget battery the quality can be hit or miss but this webpage has good recommendations for decent quality budget batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/lithium-batteries.html

[@theRobloxguy-g4z]

Great Video! Where can you get the copper bars?

[@MoserMakes]

Thanks! I usually order from onlinemetals: www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/copper/0-25-x-0-75-copper-rectangle-bar-110-h02/pid/4283

[@Enginair]

The fuses in the Lynx that protect the inverter are labeled to be 80a, but the inverter will be pulling 250a before you even account for its own inefficiency. How does that work?

[@MoserMakes]

Hello! Good catch - this was a mistake on the plans that happened when I had made some other revisions to the diagram (someone else just pointed this out to me as well) and I will be posting an update to it soon. The inverter fuse should be a 400A mega fuse.

[@Enginair]

@@MoserMakes Thanks for the reply. Something I havent found a clear answer for is: When using a chassis ground, is there any notable resistance? For instance Ill likely be doing a second alternator install for 200A. Ill obviously be running a single + wire from the alternator to the charge controller in the electrical box, but is a chassis ground enough or will there be resistance through the chassis that would create too much of a voltage drop? I guess I can measure it once its installed and running but it would be nice to know beforehand. Thanks for all of your content. Truly top tier

[@MoserMakes]

Hey, chassis ground resistance should be pretty low (most of the chassis is pretty substantial chunks of metal with a lot of cross sectional area) and not a concern but there are certainly a few things to pay attention to. 1) solid connections that aren't creating high resistance: a connection to the chassis should provide the wire lug with plenty of flat surface area of bare metal (no paint or grime in the way) and avoid using things like star washers instead of grinding away the paint because those will create more resistance at the connection. 2) carefully choose where to connect to the chassis: it should be done on a piece of the frame that is substantial and solidly connected to the rest of the frame. In a van this means avoid thinner interior wall areas that besides being thin may not be connected as solidly to the rest of the chassis. Now with a secondary alternator things may look a little different as well. I've only done one install with a secondary alternator, and it was a Nations Starter 280A alternator with a Wakespeed WS500 regulator. I designed and connected the system following the diagram in the WS500 manual which recommended using both a positive and dedicated negative return (both 4/0) from the alternator itself to the the rest of the system. I also connected a chassis ground as their diagram showed. When testing it, the return current was flowing partly through the dedicated negative return wire and partly through the chassis ground (not surprising as both provided a low resistance path so the current was splitting between both paths) as the alternator casing is grounded to the chassis as well just by the nature of how it bolted in place. This caused an issue in that the current shunt that the WS500 regulator was using to regulate the charge was only seeing the current coming through the return wire which wasn't the full current reading. In this case I had to remove the chassis ground connection (although the system was still grounded the 4/0 return wire to the secondary alternator) so that the WS500 could properly regulate the secondary alternators output. This could vary with different setups and regulators though.

[@ItsEverythingElse]

3d printing would be a great way to make spacers.

[@MoserMakes]

That's a good idea! I don't have one, but have always been interested in tinkering more with one

[@daleley7645]

That's a heavy duty setup!

[@myhificloud]

Very well done. Subbed.

[@johnnyzavala8058]

Hey Sam, would love to pay for a consult as I’m looking to upgrade the existing system on my Sprinter. Do you offer this as a service?

[@MoserMakes]

Hey sure do - email me at [e-mail] and I can send you a scheduling link to set something up.

[@rojajaja]

Isn’t 4/0 AWG 120mm2? Curious how you got to that 107.2.. :) cool tip!

[@Martin-u4b]

Top guy 👍🏻 First a quick question? How much is the cost of the kit? And with using only the panels to change the batteries (With England wether 🙄 ) How long do you think it would last if you are off grid? I Really enjoyed your video and thanks for sharing? Thanks my mate x

[@OldExodus]

Very good tutorial! Where did you get the copper bars from?

[@MoserMakes]

Thanks! I usually order them from onlinemetals.com

[@troyrussell1009]

Great explanation

[@charlesbaker1946]

You could just bend the copper bars to sit flush on each component instead of using spacers.

[@jarjar612]

Any reason you did not wire the equipment ground on the Dc-DC charger ?

[@MoserMakes]

Hello, the Victron Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger does not have an equipment ground connection point.

[@KalaWerkman]

Why was a non-isolated charger used rather than an isolated charger? I'm learning ^^'

[@kpwill45]

Because his input and output grounds are the same. As opposed to keeping the ground separate for some particular reason. If you’ll notice on non-isolated chargers, they will only have a single ground and then to positive leads, and isolated chargers will have two positive and two negative leads.

[@str33tfighter80]

For the battery connections we always use a busBar, cells to bus, bus to power in. found we had better cell life.

[@kpwill45]

It’s so frustrating how I’ve seen two of your van builds now and you always describe where both sides of a cable goes, except you repeatedly do not mention where the inverter/charger ground cable is connected to on the other end, and how you connect it. I understand you connect the entire DC negative side to the ground of the chassis, but where does the inverter/charger ground connect to?

[@MoserMakes]

Hey, sorry for the confusion I'll try and clarify. As you noted, the entire DC negative side gets tied to the vehicle chassis. Inverter chargers typically have a enclosure ground connection (on the Victron Multiplus it's the connection on the right of the underside of the unit) and this gets connected to the negative bus bar (in this particular installation the negative bus bar is part of the lynx). I hope that helps. If I misunderstood the question let me know and I'll tree and re-answer.

[@dougle03]

Hi Sam, looks great, just a little concerned about ventilation. Those B2B's, charge controller and the inverter throw out a fair amount of heat, especially the B2B's.

[@MoserMakes]

Hey! I agree that ventilation could have been improved on this one. I actually installed it back in February, and it hasn't had any performance issues due to that. In addition to the vents above and below the Multiplus, there is another opening in the area behind the distribution panel that goes through to the window area and provides some additional ventilation in that direction.

[@dougle03]

@@MoserMakes Hey thanks for responding. It's a great video with tons of really good tips and best practice. All the VE components will self protect from excess heat so all is good, but worth some forced ventilation on really hot days or heavy use.

[@giorgiolicitra5709]

"High Power" Camper Electrical System @ 12volt? For High Power? You still have a lot to learn! 48 or 96 volt is way more efficient.

[@stephensanders1876]

Not entirely sure of the exact maths behind it, but something to note is that copper bar will generally have a lower ampacity than stranded copper wire due to the skin effect. Stranded wire increases the surface area of a conductor which reduces resistance compared to a solid conductor of the same cross-sectional surface area. That being said, probably such a small consideration, and the bar was 10% bigger than the wire, so why am I writing? idk bye lol

[@MoserMakes]

Hey! I believe the skin effect only applies to AC and not DC.

[@PaDutchRunner]

Uh when you tighten your bolts for the connections, I promise that all will become flush - no need to belabor spacers as described here.

[@PaDutchRunner]

Also, please don’t wire a 12v system with this much power. You should be 24v minimum and probably 48v

[@mlrable]

Why do you hide the curoff switch. In an emergency it should be evident and not put people in greater danger

[@Cleaner69]

Time for a 3d printer to make your spacers.

[@vanlivingjoe]

I hate to say it, while a good video it's not complete by any stretch. You basically skipped all wiring in the vehicle, recepticles and the like.

[@mlrable]

I will unsubscribe, i cannot trust your instructions. You are getting gimmicky when there is no reason. Why you are uusing a solid bar subject to shock and vibration, very dumb thing wite would give flexibility

[@jihlnabaat6329]

I could use help with my 24v system?