DIY Camper Van Electrical System | Comprehensive Start to Finish Install

[@norcalvandweller8401]

Just found you and so glad, your electrical tutorials are simply the best Van Build electrical explanations on the internet Everything explained slow enough you can follow along without skipping steps Building my van and this might allow me to do this myself instead of being forced to pay someone, THANKS Subscribed and following from Sacramento,Ca

[@KismetBP]

These are the most incredible videos. Every single one is so mind boggling good. 👍 Thank you for all your hard work on these! ❤

[@ericdouglas1902]

Maybe the best campervan electrical tutorial I have seen. You've made it beautifully simple thanks!

[@MoserMakes]

Thanks! happy to hear that

[@TexasroadrunnerLLC]

What a great tutorial video, I have a 2018 Ford transit 250 I will be using for a cargo business and I need something like that to connect my little fridge, microwave, computer, etc…thanks for that step by step explanation, you did a great job…!!

[@GapRecordingsNamibia]

One thing if I may, I would suggest using a permanent marker to mark all nuts, studs and screw heads to make sure that there is no vibrational movement when checking....Other than that, absolutely perfect install. Very very well done.

[@MoserMakes]

Thanks! That is a good tip - thanks for sharing.

[@Kevjann]

Hats of to you, mister. I like your eye for quality. Very neat and tidy work you did there!

[@SASouthwing]

Well done Sam! I especially like that you used different brand components. Too many professionals out there who only want to use a single brand for everything such as Victron, etc. Subscribed.

[@MoserMakes]

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it

[@johnj4094]

@@MoserMakes considering that there is electromagnetic wave radiation coming from many AC related equipment is this safe to peoples health and such a cramp area to spend hours close to it?

[@recoblade1465]

The reason most people want to use the same brand is because a lot of these devices that have apps that you can monitor them through and using the same means you use one app to get a clear picture of what your system is doing also vitron has been in the game for 49 years and they are still the leader in their field

[@oasisauto]

Thank you for excellent information here.. just have a question Idrive 18 wheelers tractor trailer… all I care about AC unit like split unit ..can work in system like yours and give me 8 to 10 hours … is it possible?

[@ScottyDaum-o4x]

Great job!!!!! I believe I will be able to use this as a solid reference while building my solar system. Very clear, and understandable. THANKS!!!!!!

[@EricCochran-z9u]

Question for you? How many circuits will the 300watt hour system hold? I.E. is it strong enough to allow enough output for a fridge, couple light circuits, 4-6 outlets, ect! This is by far one of the most helpful videos I’ve watched on electrical housing/wiring for a van conversion. Thank you

[@andrewinaustintx]

That's an impressive install. Everything is neat and tiddy. I have an older tiny slide-in truck camper and decided to punt on having shore power capabilities. I went with a similar solar and dc to dc install that is smaller to what is shown in the video. For my 110 volt AC needs - I rely on a Bluetti power station that can be recharged from the LiFePO4 leisure battery in the camper.

[@mikefinnerty1852]

Wow, great video. Very neat install.

[@marvinpenick3859]

great info I like the fact that you gave the torque info. I just told my son that almost all nuts have a torque number, it's just finding that info.

[@iko359]

Well done. Excellent video, clear and detailed explanation!

[@BrianThomas]

Great video. Thank you. 6:15 you forgot to talk about the fuse thats inline with the battery monitor wire.

[@MoserMakes]

The fuse on the battery monitor wire comes pre-installed on the wire so it isn't something you have to buy or add yourself so that makes it easy.

[@curioussand1339]

Good explanations, just wonder why the heavy batteries are not places as low as possible.

[@MoserMakes]

Thanks! In this case they were elevated because the vehicles wheel well extended partially under where the batteries were situated.

[@williamchan3623]

Thanks!

[@88Spint]

Really tempted to build my own... My entire life is just kitchen bed and computer... looked over my power consumption and it's 4.5kwh daily without me tryin and with a solar panel getting on average 2kwh, if I get a van with space for 3 and 8kwh battery-ish, it sounds like Van life is made for me. That said I know nothing about the electrical needs I might actually have, nor the water needs... and I have zero experience in doing anything with electrics other then following along tutorials. Not to mention doing anything with water or waste. So many worries just to be a bit freer and with a little lower cost of living. Savings could be huge tho... Wonder if people ever have trouble leveling their van or if you just get used to being on less then flat ground.

[@bgzwlz5119]

I would like to build out a van at some point but I know absolutely nothing about the solar systems, so I have been obsessed with watching videos and trying to get some knowledge. I think that I would like to go with a 48V system but unfortunately my understanding of a 12V system is very limited. As a former teacher I can confidently say that this video is absolutely the best one I have seen, as you make it easier to understand. I will check out your other videos, but if you haven’t created a video about building a 48V system, do you have any plans to do so, possibly with Victron products?

[@chrisdaly4443]

Hi Sam, just downloaded the pdf for this install do you have a breakdown of the components for the shunts and + and - connection terminal block sizes and rating

[@alearnedlife]

Such a beautiful installation! Great attention to detail!

[@alrich7589]

Very clean installation

[@Ms.Frankenbuilder]

Impressive build, I am starting my van electrical, have done a few other ones for sheds. Won't be doing anything this complex.

[@sithutun7604]

THE BEST! Everything is detailed and neat.

[@richresroc]

Hi what material did you use for the frame? Does it need to be fire/heat treated?

[@Jabba53e]

Just purchased your schematic....very helpful and clean install. I have a question, I'm installing in a Toyota motorhome. I've already installed a Progressive Dynamics PD 4060K....which handles distribution of my AC/DC circuits, is capable of charging my Lithium batteries and I'm pretty sure handles integrating the Alternator power....so, in your diagram, I'm thinking the Renogy unit depicted would be overkill/redundant. However, I would still need a solar controller. Do you have a recommendation? I would assume I'd just wire it in parallel to the Progressive unit since it's taking care of the City and Vehicle charging of the battery...would that be correct?

[@MoserMakes]

Hi, The PD4060K combines the AC/DC distribution and a 60A 120V to 12V converter for charging the batteries. It does not contain anything related to alternator power so the Renogy combined solar and DC-DC charger is still a good option if you want both solar and alternating charging. I have a few thoughts though. Given that this is a motorhome and not a van you may be able to fit more solar panels than on a van. If this is the case then you may need a bigger solar charge controller and in that case I would recommend using separate solar and alternator charge controllers. The other considerations should be your need for 120V AC power. If you want to have 120V AC power available when not connected to shore power then you need an inverter to convert the 12V battery power to 120V AC power. The problem is this won't play well with the converter in the PD4060K. In such a system I would recommend not using the converter in the PD4060K and instead using a combined inverter charger as shown in the diagram to handle both the shore charging and the battery inverter functions. If you need more help with your setup email me at [e-mail] and we can setup a consulting session. Kindly, Sam

[@bradstevens993]

Am I missing something? I saw that the solar MPPT/DC to DC charger was a Renogy. But toward the end of the video you used the Victron app to configure it. Does the Victron app work for Renogy products?

[@MoserMakes]

I am using a Victron battery monitor (the BMV-712) so that is the app I'm configuring in that part.

[@vanlivingjoe]

What lever nuts did you use for the 10/2 DC side? Also, have plans for wooden frame?

[@vitdapat9306]

Thanks for a very informative tutorial, it's very helpful! And by the way can i use a 30a Renogy mppt with builded in dc-dc for my 2 x 170w solar panels with 2 x 100ah LiFePO4 battery? If possible how mant ah fuse should i use between solar and the charger? Thanks in advance!

[@MoserMakes]

I believe you are asking about using the renogy DCC30S instead of the DCC50S. Yes it would work for your setup as the DCC30S can support up to 400W of solar panels. The output fuse on it can be 40A instead of the 60A shown here for the DCC50S. I would reccomend sticking to the DCC50S instead of the DCC30S though as the price difference is pretty small. For these chargers when both solar and alternator are working together each is limited to 50% capacity (25A each for the DCC50S or 15A each for the DCC30S). This means you may not get the full potential from your solar while the alternator charger is also running and you will also receive less alternator charging current.

[@DreamVisionCrafts]

Great job looks fantastic. Is hat a kit that comes with all the component needed.

[@ThewonderingwildMann]

@MoserMakes Does it matter if you have more or less solar panels. Im guessing that its better to have more for faster charging but due to the wires and the spead that the inverter and other parts can take?

[@luedog8385]

damn that was the most professional looking system i seen. you should strat a bussiness 😂

[@stingerboardsfoilswings739]

This is awesome, I owe you some beers !!😊

[@KennedyManson]

What thickness plywood did you use for the frame? How did you make the battery tray sturdy enough to handle bumps on the road?

[@Redmudmarine]

Excellent video

[@29kideas]

Entertaining? Maybe. Soothing voice and fairly detailed. I would have flipped inverter placement to shorten the 12V input cables. 3KW inverter with 12VDC would carry 250A of current so length of the cable matters for efficiency.

[@glenelliott5178]

What's your opinion on a single 300AH battery vs 3 100AH batteries?

[@MoserMakes]

In most cases a single battery is better - less wiring connections is generally a good thing

[@ireloaded9]

What size system would you recommend going from 12v to 24v. Love all your content. So much attention to detail. Which state are you located?

[@MoserMakes]

That's a good questions! I actually considered doing a 24V on the last full conversion I did (the promaster) mainly because I wanted to try one but it ended up not making sense to. With 24V you can reduce the size of the wiring since higher voltage means lower current at the same power. 24V is good if you have long runs of wire or multiple large DC appliances (air conditioner, etc) which you can buy in 24V versions rather than 12V versions. The problem is that a lot of camper components only come in 12V, so you usually end up also needing a 24V to 12V converter to power those things (or have it power a separate 12V fuse panel).

[@ireloaded9]

@@MoserMakes which state are you located?

[@MoserMakes]

@@ireloaded9 I'm in central Texas

[@chartmann43]

@@MoserMakesdang! Austin by chance? I’m moving back to Austin this summer and praying my van makes the trip! Haha!

[@MoserMakes]

@@chartmann43 I'm not too far from Austin. If you need some help sorting out the electrical in your van send me an email at [e-mail]

[@sokbattery]

Great video ! Is this SOK 12v 100Ah battery ?

[@MoserMakes]

Yes it is!

[@michaelvasquez4460]

Do you have to still ad the ground wire if you’re installing this system in a cargo trailer where the stock interior lights are already ground.

[@MoserMakes]

If the stock lighting is grounded to the trailer frame then you need to connect the negative bus bar to the trailer chassis in order for those lights to work. In general I would reccommend not having items such as the lights grounded to the trailer frame and instead use negative return wires for everything as that will generally be more reliable long term.

[@Krissco2]

Fantastic build and guide!

[@MoserMakes]

Thank you kindly!

[@Jelk243i]

What is different using ecoflow and diy system?

[@e3ucxp]

hello, which distribution panel is that? thanks

[@chartmann43]

Omg I need so much help with my electrical system in my van! It was already installed by previous owner and now I have no idea what to do to get it organized properly

[@OneLeggedTarantula]

gut it, and build it your way. re-use whats good, toss out what you don't need.

[@theresawilson1824]

Excellent tutorial! thanks!!

[@denisemurphy5188]

Do you build systems for people? What state are you located in?

[@mihamaker]

Its nice and meticulous work. Though, this would be better in 24V system with one additional battery or minus one and more PV.

[@jenniferl350]

That particular renogy dc-dc unit is actually voltage sensing - no ignition wire needed as long as you aren't connecting to a smart alternator.

[@MoserMakes]

Hey good catch! I missed that the Renogy unit includes the voltage sensing for traditional relays. This install was in a newer transit which does have a smart alternator and needs the ignition signal. The Victron units seem to have a leg up here as in their configuration settings you can choose the alternator type (smart or traditional) and fine-tune the voltage sense settings. But I think this renogy unit is really great for combing both solar and alt charging features in one fairly compact package.

[@jenniferl350]

@@MoserMakes I really wish Renogy offered this unit with a higher voltage capability on the mppt. The 25v limit prevents wiring in series, which is a bummer. It's the only thing stopping me from using them. The new Orion 50amp dc-dc looks great, hoping they put out an isolated version soon.

[@oli77baba]

Didn’t you setup three batteries in serial?

[@eigeroverland]

Nice work Sam!

[@auwilliam22]

I noticed in the video you used SOK batteries but on your wiring diagram and component list, you listed battle born. Which SOK batteries are these. Thanks

[@MoserMakes]

These are the SOK 12V 100Ah (I’ll add link below). Any similar 12V LiFePO4 battery could be swapped in. www.us.sokbattery.com/product-page/sok-100ah-12v-lifepo4-deep-cycle-battery

[@samuelspornhauer1019]

Does the vehicle engine charge the system?

[@jag1963]

It does via the alternator when the engine is running. However if you run your 3 batterys down it will not use the vans battery so that you can still start your vehicle.

[@MissyLockard]

I really hope someone answers my question: If I am JUST charging the batteries on shore power, do I need to connect to the alternator?

[@MoserMakes]

No, you only need need to connect to the alternator if you want that as a charge source. If you only need shore charging (no solar and no alternator) then the only charging component that matters is the inverter charger. If you also want solar (but no alternator) I would recommend changing the renogy DCC50S charger I use in the video to a dedicated solar charge controller instead.

[@OneLeggedTarantula]

no

[@chrisdaly4443]

Hi I downloaded the PDF do you have a breakdown of each component for example the model of the shunt

[@MoserMakes]

Hi! There is a complete parts list on the lower part of this page: www.mosermakes.com/articles/camper-van-standard-electrical-system As far as the shunt, it is included with the battery monitor (it doesn't need to be purchased separately).

[@BrianThomas]

23:01 Here would be a great opportunity to install some power monitoring iot beakers.

[@TheMissouriBowhunter]

So basically what you are saying is that no dedicated ground wire needs to be ran to the starter battery from the DC-DC unit? Basically the circuit comes from the starter battery, and completes through the negative out of the DC-DC unit, to the negative bus bar to the chassis ground.

[@MoserMakes]

That is correct and that is how Renogy recommends hooking up this unit in their installation guide.

[@ewetuber186000]

Nice install!

[@douggee3610]

When I plug in shore power does the battery charge

[@MoserMakes]

Yes. With the inverter charger the batteries will get charged when shore power is connected.

[@EnclaveDesigns]

What do I need/not need if I don't want shore power?

[@MoserMakes]

The inverter charger can be swapped out for an inverter only (which can be found cheaper). Then skip the shore power inlet port, breaker and wiring leading to the AC input of the inverter charger on the diagram, but everything else can stay the same.

[@profloorsnj]

where are you located , do you build or maybe upgrade my system ?

[@Krissco2]

Am I reading the torque numbers correctly? 10:38 for example. 21 newton meters seems reasonable, but 186 foot pounds is enormous. Also, these aren’t equivalent so either I’m reading it wrong or a scaling factor is incorrect in your conversion. Edit: the capital “I” in the font looked like lowercase “l” to me and I didn’t read the rest. Inch pounds. 😂 makes much more sense!!

[@MoserMakes]

Yep the second number is in-lbs!

[@ReimerKeith]

Why is it important to keep the positive and negative cables the same length? It's not like you are trying to keep a signal in phase.

[@MoserMakes]

Primarily it's just important for the connections from battery to battery as keeping the resistance in between each one helps them charge more evenly.

[@jonsmail8082]

What model inverter and is it only 12volt or can it do 24volt?

[@MoserMakes]

Here I used the Xantrex Freedom XC 2000. It is available in either a 12V or 24V version.

[@policeswat64]

Looks awesome! can't wait to start mine ! :)

[@alejandrobetancourt3181]

IS IT NOT IMPORTANT TO LET PEOPLE KNOW, NOT TO EXCEED 25 AMP. MAX AS THE MAIN BREAKER WILL TRIP OVER TIME, REGARDLESS OF ALL OTHER 15 AMP BREAKERS? , BUT EVERYTHING ELSE, WELL EXPLAINED AND GREAT VIDEO

[@NorthEastFPV]

great vid with good info 👍👍

[@aaronag7876]

OMG the thickness of the cables, for a van ? They look like industrial size wiring lol Just scares me, the thought of all that extra weight for a van? I have 1x110ah old school leisure battery, 1x285w solar panel, a cheap Chinese 30a solar charger and a 50a breaker for the battery, using 6mm wire to connected them all. I also use twin core 12v (red and black, wrapped in black cable) wire for all connections to the roof fan, lights, extra USB. There is no "hook up system" but it all works and prob only cost me about £250 total lol

[@ry2zen]

It all depends on how much load you expect. In his case he's using a 2000W inverter, so that requires larger wiring.

[@bignicnrg3856]

That's pretty impressive!!

[@michaelrowland-us3he]

Why use busbars?

[@Tsskevik]

Its not good practice to run the voltage sense wire for the shunt current sense with the main DC wire into the busbar, the introduction of electromagnetic noise is pretty high in high current levels introducing inductances, giving faulty measurements.

[@youtubehandol]

3 batty's parallel but you didn't fuse them in between each? Man... I spent a lot on 3x victron power ins if I didn't need to!

[@MoserMakes]

It doesn't hurt to fuse each one individually (and definitely adds some extra protection) but it's also acceptable (and fairly common in campers) to fuse the whole parallel group at one point.

[@youtubehandol]

@@MoserMakesI guess that's the BMS job at the end of the day isn't it

[@outthere9370]

Great stuff thanks but why the complication of 3 x 100 Ahr batteries & not just 1 x 300 Ahr?

[@MoserMakes]

A single 300 Ah battery could work as well. If doing one larger battery you do need to double check the max discharge current rating and if it can handle your largest loads. Often the max discharge current of a single large battery is less than that of multiple smaller ones in parallel.

[@maytube102]

excellent!

[@Brigand231]

Great, now when I get near the electrical section at the hardware store I'm going to be afraid of feral (ferrule) wires!

[@MoserMakes]

hahah! Another van builder I know used to joke that ferrules should be called wire un-ferals since they tame the wire strands haha

[@powerwall]

We can sent you a 12V 230Ah battery for testing.

[@mikesgarage394]

Heavy items shouldn't be on top!! Batteries should be on bottom.

[@uzis4life]

Exactly this guy put the heavy azz batteries on top and the light things on the bottom smh

[@Tom111060]

TIP: When working on such Systems with all open contact I woud strongly recommend to isolate all metal tools (wrench etc.) with some shrink tubing to prevent vom shorting out 300amps - you do not want this, believe me.

[@Epixflame]

Just disconnect your batteries when working on the system.

[@Tom111060]

@@Epixflame ... Doesn't help when battery terminals themselves are uncovered ...

[@Epixflame]

@Tom111060 it's a user error if you short out battery terminals😂.

[@luedog8385]

nah

[@dimaesb]

Hi from Russia. I never lay the red and black wire side by side, because there is a risk of heating and therefore a short circuit. It is necessary to lay a little separately, keep a distance or a heat-resistant gasket between the wires, do not tighten with ties. I make wires over the batteries in different directions, they do not intersect in any way, the red does not go over the black, but on the other side the terminals are from the black, then even when heated they will not touch in any way/ (sorry for google translate)

[@scoopold]

Yeah, this out does all of them.

[@MoserMakes]

Thank you!

[@BuckleGeoffrey]

Anderson Linda Lopez Daniel Rodriguez Larry

[@lesbetts5694]

step left out to make this video not so long.... dude its ok leave all steps in we know what we are clicking on when we search for this video. tutorials and walkthroughs are suppost to be long and covering ever tedious step. still good video more informative then the last few i watched

[@hard2miss]

NaaaaaYce

[@blackcatrose4257]

When working with electric, wear rubber gloves.

[@johnhiggins4393]

The more connectors the more chance of bad connection's

[@jounikyy7715]

lend tools from boyfriends

[@mingxuanfan]

This an overkill

[@yaagunna]

You’re a buzzkill

[@Warlockphreak]

$9.99 for a pdf no thank you

[@timquain5341]

So much terminology not explained. Like bus bar and power bank.

[@UnrestrictedIsle]

Does the Renogy charger allow solar to charge the starter battery?