Motorcycle Master Cylinder Rebuild - Part 2 Reassembly

Reassembly of the most common type of front master cylinder kit used on many Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha Motorcycles.

[@livemeyer]

You have a very good presenter's/teacher's voice. Nice and calm, easy to watch and listen as you perform the rebuild.

[@johngangloff3263]

Excellent video to complement my shop manual. Thank You.

[@blipco5]

I can see the towel underneath quite clearly. 👍 Good videos.

[@kuladeeluxe]

excellent rundown, thanks

[@aldente2676]

Honing a cast iron cylinder is the proper thing to do. Unfortunately, aluminum cylinders aren't meant to get honed, because of a special coating the manufacturer applies to the bore. The advantage aluminum cylinders have over cast iron is that they don't rust

[@vanamee692]

I watched part 1 of this, and it was very helpful. Unfortunately i can no longer find part 1 to watch again. Anyway, I could use some help. I disassembled my master brake cylinder, as shown in part 1 video. Visually I see no damage or wear or dirt. Yet this cylinder has no resistance whatsoever, ie won't pump any fluid at all. I suspect some difficulty with the two valve ports, or whatever they are called. One port has a L-shaped springy thingy on top. I would expect some sort of valve or ball and spring below that, but there is nothing whatsoever. Is this the problem? Can this be serviced? Help please! BTW it's a 2006 Suzuki boulevard c50.

[@user-ln5ui8ul3t]

question: so you pushed the bottom of the boot "in" to make the weather seal. So does my 87 aspencade have the same procedure for my boot? Push it in? I just rebuilt mine but can not figure out the boot and plugger proper way of install.... my plugger has a double rig in the middle also,, confused here,, thanks ,, df

[@warrenp2022]

Good informative video and several knowledgeable people in the comment section, I came to the right place. I bought a 1979 Harley Sportster at an estate sale, about half price. It sat for around 30 years, needs some attention. Brake master cylinders are dry and crusty inside, I got the rear apart, it fought me but it can be rebuilt. The front doesn't want to come apart, the internal components are frozen in place and won't move in or out. For the last 3 days it has been in the vice exerting steady pressure through a deep well socket against the internal components with PB Blaster in the reservoir, the circlip is out. I haven't got it's attention yet, is there a better witch's brew to remove the corrosion? I don't want to damage the unit or replace it, trying to keep it as original as possible. I expected a challenge but am a little out of my depth on this component. Thanks in advance for usefull suggestions short of nitro.

[@TheNordmo]

Hello. What was the cause of this repair? What symptoms, before you did anything, I lost the power of the clutch. Have cleaned and refilled the brake fluid and vented the system. But there are no air bubbles in the return to the container on the handlebars ...

[@dennytuma]

you forgot to mention the bevel on the snap ring

[@scottb.innovations4386]

I just watched both part 1 and 2, I wanted to find out what the bore size is for this master, as I can not ()YET) find it online. AN chance you could tell me. I will watch for a reply

[@markoldroyd416]

On that particular Master Cylinder it was a 15.8mm bore which is one of the most common sizes used for front masters.

[@TheJumpn]

What grit sandpaper??

[@markoldroyd416]

160 grit