My Building Buckled! This Can't be Good

[@OutdoorsWithTheMorgans]

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[@GaryHenson-f1t]

Hey y'all. Just watched episode regarding buckled door jamb. Might should wait until spring thaw before repairing. If you fix while still frozen it might revert to original position when thawed and you could have to do another fix. Love your program. A big fan from Otto, NC (Western Carolina Mountains)

[@Formulabruce]

Birds will get Water off edge of a roof that may have some ice melt.

[@irishguyjg_2ndchancerecovery]

😂😂😂😂😂​@@Formulabruce Birds don't help with anything on a steel roof there bub

[@shanehumphrey4827]

@@GaryHenson-f1t correct

[@wyatt9548]

I’m a contractor grew up helping build pole barns and still do it today at 55 I’m still a contractor… You are 100% 💯 correct on the door frame prob… not a hard fix, just a nuisance because it should have been done when built… Step… (1) remove ext. metal sheathing (2) cut pole free and remove (3) auger/post hole deeper (4) replace with new longer post *( post must tie into top plate (beam/header) as well) (5) reset metal sheathing (5) reset metal sheath

[@wyatt9548]

Don’t understand the number 5 echo?? Ha Ha

[@edwardreidt1230]

Okay when you was fueling up you said that it was the end of February so I had to back up and listen again think you meant to say January though it was funny

[@greghomestead8366]

Wyatt9548...... I'm not a builder at all, but I have to tell you you're wrong. Here are the correct stops..... Step 1: Call contractor that built building to have them come and fix it. 😁

[@wyatt9548]

@ calling the contractor is exactly what to do first, and they should have no problem fixing it because it should have been done on original build time…so it should be no cost to owner. But the steps I mentioned for repair are not wrong sir…

[@jamesmarzen-pj6gq]

As an amateur, agree 100% with this solution. Longer post would be connected to the top in the same manner the main posts are. Fairly low $$ on material’s, mostly the time needed being the challenge.

[@homernextdoor5950]

🇨🇦Mike, ive been a General Contractor for 30+ yrs and what your saying sounds correct except for the fact that there is no issues on the interior which is a bit of a head scratcher. Any time I've got a call for problems like this on post and beam construction there is an issue on the interior as well such as nails or screws popping or in your case the metal on the inside bottom of the wall should be showing the same problem. BTW, i live in BC Canada and get the same temperature fluctuations as your area. As u said, i would definitely wait till it is significantly warmer and all the frost had come out of the ground to see how it reacts. Cant wait to see what transpires. Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦 Edit, put a black felt mark on the center of the latch and where that corresponds on the strike plate today so u can monitor it as temperatures fluctuate.

[@Lakeman3211]

It’s frost jacking, columns that are not sleeved in colder climates will have the frost expand and grab the object and start pulling it upward…an old trick from Alaska bridge and cabin builds was to wrap the column with tar paper loosely, do not attach it just create s sleeve….if it jacks to far, the gravel or backfill will migrate under the column and not permit it to settle back…I live in northern PA and our frost can get down to 40”….good luck..

[@buddyd_atc]

I think your spot on mike. I also noticed that post on that side of the door doesn't extend all the way up to the framing at top of the wall. Maybe had a hinge affect with no door Header and just door being framed to purlin. Pole building probably doesn't need a conventional header due to poles holding the weight but if it had one and the pole extended all the way up on the one side of door it may limit flex from shallow hole and limit freeze and thaw issues.

[@57Dalv]

My thoughts exactly

[@dancox5572]

YESSIR.

[@charliesaul729]

This is correct.

[@Thenordicchisel]

I live in northern Mn. We see this often when we hit 20-30 below zero for long periods of time. One of the easy fixes we use when building pole buildings is after we bury the poles we put two inch foam down about a foot in the ground two feet out around the perimeter of the building. This will stop all frost from ever penetrating deep enough to cause the poles or concrete from frost heaving.

[@DBohl]

I remember when I was just a kid, a corner post of our pole barn rose up during a very cold winter, causing issues with the sliding door. When the grown thawed out in spring, my dad dug down to the bottom of the post and got it back where it belonged. He then took a salt block that we used for cattle and broke it up into big pieces and pour it around the bottom of that post. He never had a problem with the post heaving after that.

[@russellbowman8051]

Enjoyed The Video Mike!! Most Likely the problem is the concrete slab in front of the door is lifting up due to the frost heave therfore the slab is catching the door frame and trim and it is being lifted to form the buckling of outside trim. Keep Smiling On!! 😃👍👊❤️

[@jimcrewsrealtor]

Hey Mike, I meant to add this to one of your earlier videos, but got busy and forgot. It's just a thought I had when you were riding around and mentioned you are going to put some windows in your new equipment shed so you can look over the valley below. It dawned on me that you could put your new mini cabin on the roof of the shed and be able to see down in the ravine and over the food plot. You may have to add a little shoring to hold the weight, but you already have the bottom, just have to build the cabin on top and add some stairs. I would save you some time, and it isn't like you don't have enough to do already. It is just a thought.

[@MichaelAbbitt]

Mike, don’t worry about fixing the door trim until Spring. As you know in SWPA the freeze/ thaw cycles continue until March, and will keep that post heaving out of the ground until then. If you replace the trim now you’ll only have to do it again in March. Also remember, once a post heaves up during a freeze, it won’t sink back down once the ground thaws. One thing that may help keep the door from really getting jammed up is to get your recip saw between the frame and post and cut the nails( Be careful not to punch through the exterior metal). Then use your Dremel to cut vertical slots into the frame, then drive new nails in through the slots near the bottom of the slot. That way as the post heaves out, the nail holding the door frame will ride up the slot, while the door frame is held in place by the rest of the frame and the weight of the building. It’s similar to how vinyl siding is attached to sheathing.

[@wyatt9548]

I’m a contractor grew up helping build pole barns and still do it today at 55 I’m still a contractor… You are 100% 💯 correct on the door frame prob… not a hard fix, just a nuisance because it should have been done when built…

[@jamesiversen]

@wyatt9548 I would agree with you. As part of the fix, I'd suggest extending that shorty post up to the perimeter beam, so any uplift/heave would be resisted by the roof structure like the rest of the posts. It seems to me that shorty is free to lift independently of the rest of the building, hence the differential settlement/heave. Would you agree that fix might reduce the chance of this occurring again in the future? Mike could probably try to do the fix from the outside by removing the cladding and scabbing on an extension with some significant Simpson Strong-Tie strapping to mitigate potential buckling at the joint. This would reduce the need to disturb the interior finishes too much or fully replacing that post; though if it were my building, I'd probably open 'er up and just replace it with a single full height post (while at the same time confirming the depth of the post is sufficient). More work, but more peace of mind.

[@ranger6x660]

Mike, I would let the contractor know so they are aware and can change how they do it for future builds.

[@danclas5983]

It sure never hurts to have good pictures of a build from start to finish.

[@joehajek5576]

I can’t echo this enough!

[@lonniechartrand]

Yep. Every home I build, I take HUNDREDS of photos, start to finish. I just had an issue with frozen pipes on the north wall of my cabin. My photos came in handy!

[@theforeman1097]

You are 100% correct Mike. It's heaving. Since it doesn't appear to be load bearing, you may be able to relieve the heave by cutting that post at ground level and temporally brace that frame until it's warm enough to permanently fix it (but I'm not an engineer) lol.

[@davidwright4537]

10-4. If you can, put an anti freeze at the base, RV anti freeze will work. Then after the thaw, dig baby dig.

[@leonardleveque3745]

The post may only be attached to the Perlans and not anchored into the earth.

[@thomasstrout1738]

That post on the strike side of the door is the localized problem. You are correct Mike. If you had moisture under ground it would be more evenly distributed and would affect several posts if not the entire building. Problems begin to appear with sustained temps below zero. At 10 below and colder problems rapidly appear as stresses build. At 15-20 below that is extreme. Septic systems begin freezing and lots of trouble manifests. You should be able to adjust and align things when winter is over. I suggest hooking up a heat source to your radiant floor system and warm up your slab in future years during extreme (below zero sustained) weather to stabilize the floor system. Your wood stove works well but your slab and perimeter in that part of the building are too far away. The moderate air temp in that area is not enough when it is 10 below. Not suggesting you switch over to full time radiant heat throughout the building but just a loop or two in that end of the building during severe winters.

[@belmontryder1359]

Do you think floating slabs is moving with frost?

[@thomasstrout1738]

@@belmontryder1359 I think beneath the post and around that post in that spot he has some lift. If the slab is warm during extreme cold the frost will not take place. The area will stay above freezing even if the heat tubes are 6 to 12 inches away. The slab will radiate just enough to prevent heaving the post. If temps went to 20-25 below for a few days that post might heave though, unless you increase water supply temp from 100 degrees to 115 degrees.

[@jackonthefarm5540]

Mike, I am an engineer with a construction background. You are dead on about that one post not having been founded properly. My feeling is that the builder made a mistake and you wouldn't be wrong to hold him responsible for fixing the issue. In 2018 I had a 6000 SF pole barn built on my property. My personnel door was properly founded on both sides and we have no problems in a colder environment than you.

[@brucehill-q2e]

I wonder if that post being short it may be heaving more from the frost than the rest of them that go all of the way to the roof. I would take some pine off the inside and put a piece of post in to extend it to the top plate so it moves at the same rate as the rest of the building. Just scab doe 2x6 on both side to tie it all together. Probably will have to wait until the ground thaws like you said. Could also try to push it back down with a bottle jack first. No matter how deep the post the frost will grab the top of them. They all move but that one has less resistance than the rest. We use tapered porch piers here in Vermont so when the frost tries to grab and lift the concrete it can’t because the top of the pier falls away. If did did a post building like yours here in Vermont I would run a 2 foot strip of 2” foam board around the entire outside perimeter of the building to stop the frost from penetrating into the ground. Hope this helps.

[@TCsOutdoors1]

Hi Mike, I think you’re spot on with diagnosing the door issue you’re having. It’s an awesome idea to take a bunch of pictures during the building process just incase you have an issue down the road. We built a new home 4 years or so ago and thankfully we did the same thing. I’ve had a few issues pop up and having the pictures to reference helped big time with fixing the problems. Great video as always, take care- Tony

[@Gnomemansgarage]

Good Morning Morgans , dont know why they do it this way with a short piece of wood , Amish built mine and it is the same way , I believe it is so the owner if they change where they want the door while being built it makes it easier to put in the frame some where else, my neighbor had the same exact thing happen and when we took it apart, cause of course the warranty period was over. this shorter post was only like 16 inches in the ground not near enough for frost line for sure , it is a big nuisance , so had to remove and take the inside wall apart / metal work outside and hand post hole dig about another foot for 26 inches and ran it up to the top band board that goes all around the upper part and used a glue lam type post like the rest of the post it was built with so it had no chance of warping after all this work , it was just a pain to have to do it it should of been done right in the first place . Have a great Day Mike

[@allenkroencke9901]

Mike, I am not an engineer, but when I was younger I was a builder. I think you are right about the post. I think if it were longer and went all the way up to the main beam you would not have the problem, even if the post was not as deep as the other. I think the long term fix will be to open the wall up and bolt a beam extension up to the main beam overhead. Good luck

[@Hd36Wissayer]

Mike we have had problems like you are having with the door. We fixed ours by replacing the concrete slab on the outside. And when we replaced it we poured the concrete on 2" of foam sheeting. It stopped our heaving problem. So, every time we are putting in a slab of concrete on the outside of a building we are using 2" foam insulation.

[@garyswearingen9363]

Turn your floor heat on, that may ease the heaving.

[@davidmorse8432]

Now you may be on to something here. I never thought of that but it might help.

[@larryfowler4558]

Very good idea!

[@Prescott-hockey8]

That was my first thought. Is the floor heat on.

[@ronallen6578]

​@@Prescott-hockey8I always wondered why spend the money and never use it??

[@joshb8302]

I don't believe the floor heat is hooked up. He had plans for an outdoor boiler, but the indoor fire has been enough to heat the place.

[@briantaylor9266]

You may have an adfreeze problem. That happens when the soil surrounding the post freezes and bonds to the post. When the frost progresses into the ground, the expansion lifts the post. The frost doesn't have to get down to the base of the post for this to happen. That short post isn't carrying any of the roof load, which would help to keep it down. To do a proper fix, you need to strip the siding and paneling, excavate the post, and replace it with one that goes down to frost depth (assuming the existing one is shallow) and up to the top plate.

[@calvincoolidge5545]

I agree. The fact that the post doesn’t extend all the way to the top header might mean it doesn’t have enough weight on it to break the bond of the surrounding frost.

[@RLGurnsey]

Mike, I believe you are correct about the post not being far enough in the ground but can't say for certain. The additional issue with that post is that it is not carrying the load of the building the way the rest of your posts are. which creates a lack of down force on that post. Without that additional load it is far easier for the freeze to heave that concrete cookie upwards. Feeling terrible that happened to you as you have done so much work in that building. Praying for a good outcome and believe that it will drop back down, and you will be able to repair the metal jam to restore the aesthetics of the opening. I had a lot of concrete poured around my house several years ago, and they pinned the concrete to the cinderblock along the house and the outside steps going into the basement. Ever since they did that, the cinderblock along the outside stairwell has been heaving every winter and it's now at a point where I am going to be forced to have someone come in and repair the block. It lifts during the cold months and settles back down in the warmer months, but it is starting to crumble. Praying you won't have to have that post dug out and set further down in the ground.

[@randyvilleneuve4907]

The first pole building I built in Northern NY raised up on one side because I made the mistake of pouring the front pad under the overhead door frame. The pad picked up from the frost 6" but only one one side as I figure that side had allot of moisture in the ground. I was lucky in a way that I had not poured the floor yet so I was able to dig out that corner and lower the building down. This winter so far has been the coldest I can remember in central VA. In summary, it can very well be that one post that has been picked up by the frost but your outside pad could have moved as well but if there is no evidence of this then its the post. It may go back down in the spring or may not. My pad went back down but my building did not until I dug out the posts as mentioned.

[@kevinhall2266]

You’re spot on with the post heaving. Frost for sure lifting it. “One two buckle my shoe, three four not my door”. Hate sub zero temps.

[@gregwertheim3970]

Mike I had/have a similar issue with my new metal building. Last winter was our first winter with the building and I found the siding panels and trim around the door was buckling. I found that 1/2 of the new driveway slab had heaved and rose enough to hit the panels. I had to take a right angle grinder to cut away about an inch of the siding and door trim to release the tension. Same thing is happening this year only it’s not touching this time. We live in southwest VA BTW. Moved here from CT in 2023. Never had this happen in CT.

[@givrsum8415]

just my opinion on the frost damage mike,,,, retired mechanical contractor here.. i'm much more north than you but when we pour crete it's on 2" foam whether we're lacing it for radiant or not.. obviously it's to late for that, so i'd suggest you turn your floor heat on and stop relying on the wood stove 100%.. jmo

[@jeffdickerson9268]

Mike I don’t think it’s the post. I believe it’s the slab heaving on the latch side of the door. If the post was heaving it would take the metal with it and therefore it wouldn’t be deforming. Unless the purlins aren’t attached to the jamb side post.

[@wallace3953]

this idea/indication seem to be very smart.....can it be refined???? smart observation, for sure.

[@jamessheridan3937]

Hi Mike, I agree you should wait until spring to work on this. Is the door header level? This would confirm your suspicion. I’d suggest you loosen some of the screws on your siding to prevent that from buckling. For curiosity sake, you might want to get a dimension from the top of the moving post to the underside of the header holding the roof trusses. Compare this dimension in spring to see how much it moved. Suggestions in spring: 1) With the post exposed, use a bottle jack between the top of the post and underside of the header to give the moving post a nudge down. You won’t pick up the building. 2) Find someone who can make you a 6x6 to fill in the space between the subject post and header (know someone?). Too bad they didn’t use the same construction on the shop door as they did on the family room door. 3) Removing the post to determine how deep it was set is going to be a bear. 4) Please cash the Christmas present I sent in the Christmas card to Hunter. Stay warm, Jim Sheridan

[@TBOTS2112]

Yes its heaving. One solution would be to make a floating door frame like is done with log construction. Depending on the clearance between the building sub-frame and the door jam, that could be a pain. You would have to either cut down the existing frame, or down size the door if clearance is too tight. And +1 on the red oak firewood👍

[@ScottfromNB]

I've dealt with frost heaving many times on my property. If it hadn't been for your "investigation" with the construction photos, I'd've been flummoxed with the heaving being so localized to a mid-wall spot. I think you're correct in your assessment both of cause, and course of action in the short term. Nothing can be done until the frost releases things. It'll be interesting watching the fix you do in the spring.

[@lawrencepevitts2434]

Cut/remove the fasteners from the door frame that are into that post. Then you can refasten them like they do with log homes. They cut a slot in the frame and use a screw/nail with a washer to fasten it to the log, or in your case the post. That will allow the post to move without effecting the door frame.

[@LaddGardner4]

Mike, I would just pull off the door casing on the interior, left side of the door, then use a reciprocating saw and 6” demo blade between the exposed door jamb and jack stud to sever the connecting nails holding the door jamb to the 6x6. If necessary, pull the door casing off the top of the door too, and - with the top and left side jams exposed you can use a pry bar (36” long) to pry the left side jamb back down into place. I’d leave the trim off until the spring, but cutting the connection between the door jamb and post should prevent further damage.

[@charlesstrait6822]

You may want to cut about a 1/2 inch off the bottom of the Brick moulding on the latch side of the door. I believe it is the concrete pad on the outside of the building. The concrete pad on the outside of the building is more likely to rise from frost. Hope this helps.

[@JemezDaveNM84]

Mike I think your right about that short beam on that door. It should've been tied to the header that supports all the rafters. All your other doors that I can see each side of the door those beams go all the way to the header on top. I don't know why the put the short one in maybe they ran out of beams. I don't have experience with pole barns so take that with a grain of salt, but when you have those set in the ground with freezing and thawing going on. 3 stringers aren't going to do a whole lot to stabilize that. With the pictures you have you should be able to make a case with the company that built it and have them fix it, and if not, you know what to do. You haven't had any problems with any of the other doors either. JMO. Just a note I was a contractor and owned my own construction company years ago.

[@Jimmyscountrylife]

Mike I once experienced a similar problem with a pressure treated post shrinking. I think my wood burner drew the moisture out of the 10’ post and shrunk it about two inches. It had me stumped for a while until I realized that was the problem. It looked like you’re door frame on the striker side was a pt post in your video. Hope this helps!

[@saintaugustine1715]

good morning Mike like I always said I read some of the comment before putting mine down and there was one person that was saying exactly what I was thinking you got that radiant flooring you need to use it when it's going to be cold like mid 20's and lower to keep the frost from penetrating inside because the movement might make your floor crack and break the lines in your floors. And yes the one that talk about the fix he is right on how to do it put that still not stopping the frost from filtering in under when under 0 degree far. Other you could get get a wood furnace with the boiler to use you floor for heating have a great day

[@andrewschmidt2886]

It is the slab of concrete on the exterior of the building The frost will get under that slab and lift, it hits your trim

[@Azframer]

With my phone, I can zoom in on your reveal across the top of your door. The reveal is normal on the hinge side but wide on your doorknob side. That means what I told you last time. Water is getting under your threshold or, under your concrete. With the short post, it appears to be going up. If icing is heaving your concrete you will have a hard time doing a repair that will last. I don't know how far your stem under your door goes down. It sounds like your pier footing is 42"down. If your stem does not tie into your piers you are going to have more problems. If the stem under your post frame is shallow you will need to be tied to your piers and your stem on the bottom sloped to a point. That way the ice can't push up on the stem in between.

[@MakayCapps]

Great video! 👍🏻

[@johnkummer7578]

Mike your door is also bent on top of the trim when you backed away from that. If that post is dropped down to fix it you may have to dig down under and place a round cement stone down in the bottom for a solid base for the post. You may have to take the trim off then attach a short one that you can put a jack on and push it back in place then block in in but it looks like they did not get that one on a stable base. Good luck Mike and keep them coming they make my day.

[@AppliedOCD]

I just installed a new Stihl 28" bar on an MS310 (see the video on my channel) and I discovered that my chain was running dry. I removed the bar and learned that Stihl has changed the design of the oil hole. It's much smaller and goes up at an angle, and in my experience, is more prone to plugging with sawdust.

[@johngrossbohlin7582]

Stihl didn’t change anything… they have different oiler locations and hole configurations on different saw/bar combinations and you used an incompatible combination. A 28” bar on a 310 is wishful thinking anyway… the saw lacks the power to reasonably pull a 28 buried in the wood. A 28” is outside the Stihl recommended range of bar sizes for the 310 saw.

[@AppliedOCD]

@johngrossbohlin7582 Thanks for the comment! I run a skip tooth ,and it pulls just fine. A full house is a much different story. BTW, I checked oil flow with the bar on the saw without the chain, and when the hole is clear, the oil flows fine.

[@timothybrawley7909]

I think your absolutely correct about the post lifting up. That was my first thought when I saw the problem. This is caused by Hydraulic pressure. A freeze thaw thing. To fix it it, that I don't know any other way than to go back and fix it correctly and run the post the total depth and height as all the rest of the post. That's going to be a big job. Good luck!

[@RosaStringWorks]

Frost heave sounds right. If you can uncover the area inside or out, I would cut the post off at ground level (leave wide gap, at least 1"). Get the post in position, and then anchor it to the bottom rail and the top beam to hold it firm. that will take that single post out of the equation for the heaving and still be strong enough for the door latch/stop.

[@TheLettich17]

This is what I would do, it’s just the latch side of the doorframe, anchored to the bottom rail would hold it

[@fricknjeep]

hi follow up on the flag coming down . what i have found ,in the winter time the humility in houses gets very low drying studs along with other things causing them to shrink even more , the flag may have been put up with nails , , it like putting nails in green wood ,the wood shrinks around the nail and they loose there holding power , just a thought , john

[@charlesgallant756]

Good morning Mike, It's the floating concrete Slab that is eaving because of the frost, we see it all the time up here in Canada. In Canada we don't necessarily use that building technique because the frost will raise the elevation of the concrete while your building will still be anchor below the frost line, walls won't buckle but a door is a weak point were you will notice it more. It's also important that you have a good 5/8 to 3/4" of spacing between the door frame and header without any shims to allow for the frost deflection.

[@KenAmmon]

From North Idaho, our climatologist just announced for our area that we've had the least amount of snow, so far, at 8.4 inches. It's ben cold here, teens at night, up to about 30 during the day. Shadow lakes have ice on them. Weird about the flag falling onto the stove top, I agree the 2 minute fix will turn into an hour or 2, seems like it always does. I agree with you on the HQ door fix. Stay warm!

[@critical-thought]

Builders rarely think about the extreme ends of the climate. You might find ways to deal with your building issue, but the only way to fix it is to replace the post to the correct depth.

[@BKD70]

Good Morning Mike! When it rains, it pours. Hopefully that frost heave will go back down and your door will be good again. Will the door even open right now? On your saw, it's most likely a bit of sawdust that has plugged either the line to the oil pump, or the oil port on the bar itself has a chip jammed in it plugging the oil hole into the bar channel. Hopefully it's not the pump itself. You can take the pump out of the saw and blow compressed air through the line to clear it. My Dad runs Stihls, and that's usually what it is, I've only had to change 1 oil pump for him through the years. My Husqvarna's don't have any problems like that 😉😉😉

[@badcat4707]

Good morning to Hunter 👋👋😺and family and friends , happy peaceful Sunday to everyone 🙏🙏😸

[@peteatthefarm4459]

Happy Sunday Morning BadCat.... enjoy the milder weather 😎 😊

[@badcat4707]

@@peteatthefarm4459 / thanks Pete , to you as well 👍😺

[@soofoodude3410]

A lot of comments here are recommending extending the post to the top plate, installing headers, etc. None of that will stop frost heave. Extending the post to top of the wall will just Jack up the top plate and put a hump in the top plate, and roof. The frost heave issue has to be addressed. Please see my previous comment.

[@donaldokray868]

Look at the lintel above the door, that piece of trim is bent also

[@4BikeMike]

I would also remove the snow that is against the building. When temps rise a bit the snow that's against the building could be melting and water finding its way down into ground there. That would cause more moisture in ground which would cause a thicker freeze thaw cycle...Now you have a perfect storm between this and the post in the ground...

[@Hallnout]

Good morning Morgans and friends. Have a day!

[@peteatthefarm4459]

Morning Michael, sunny in Ontario, for now... might get to 30F?

[@Hallnout]

​@@peteatthefarm4459good morning. No sun here yet but hopeful. , 20-29° today. Have a blessed Sunday friend. Thank you.

[@badcat4707]

Good morning friends , wishing you both a Blessed day 🙏🙏😺

[@davidmorse8432]

Good morning Michael? 😊

[@Hallnout]

@davidmorse8432 good morning my friend . Have a great day. Thank you.

[@colreb7149]

A ton of people here have “pole barns” similar to yours, and a few, have metal post and beam buildings, the metal buildings are far superior to the others, of course that comes with a cost. I agree with the poster about getting to the post and have is replaced and I would tie it to the rest of the framing, not just let it stand alone, that was pretty sketchy, but unfortunately thats how they do it sometimes. They added that post later than the others, probably dug the hole by hand, not so deep. I see some wiring might be attached to that post also, light switches. My 90 year old mother say’s, it’s something every day.

[@Z-Bart]

I would definitely be sharing those build photos with your building contractor. They should Want to fix that.

[@CuriousKL]

I have a 30 x 40 in Michigan. There is one 16 foot overhead door and 1 side entrance hinged door. ALL uprights are tied to main beam, all sitting on 4 inch thick donut 48 inches deep. The contractor that built that should have not allowed to have placed that short upright post without it being tied to the main upper beam. That's is how post and beam construction counteracts the stresses. Common sense. Repairable for certain.

[@Shane_Reynolds85]

I, too, had my main water line from the well freeze. That took some work to get going. We had -22º up in Crawford County, -35º windchill. I dug out the water line and re-insulated the whole situation. I hope we're good to go, now!

[@PatrickMcPhersonRed]

Mike, you need to check your header trim on that door. I'll wager it's starting to bend also.

[@TheFirewoodHut]

Yep! Noticed that too.

[@davidmorse8432]

It is.

[@glockglockhoosdareLsa]

Hi Mike. You are correct. As soon as I saw the photo I knew it was the short post. It was caused by the temps and differential settling. If the short post went all the way to the roof it would not have happened. Several factors are involved as you know. I would extend the short post to the roof top purling. I am a retired engineer from Kentucky.

[@larrymorgan3769]

Your outside pad is poured seperate from in side pad outside is heavying up. Brick mould is prouble sitting on outside pad may halve to trim brick mould and metal over brick mould

[@timgreaser653]

You’re right Mike, I’ve been a contractor in central PA for 38 years. I believe the post may be deep enough, but because it is short of the beam when it heaves, it doesn’t apply the same pressure up to your beam as your long post this weather has been unbelievable, in my opinion, I would open up the interior of the wall or exterior of the wall and somehow try to continue that post up to the bottom of the beam. It looks like you have a good thermal break to your concrete floor with the 2 inch foam. I’m not sure if you put your boiler in for your under floor radiant heat, but if you did maybe running the radiant heat when it gets 10° may be a good idea, extending that post up to the beam should allow a more stable wall and that wall will all move as one from now on .

[@ransomdavis9950]

I agree with this guy. The post does not have any weight on it.

[@bobpurs]

Mike I had same problem with pole barn garage I built at my Cabin. We used a 4x4 post for One side door frame instead of a regular post and not as deep. Every winter it raises up and it always goes back down. This is in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan(below zero is common) so it really gets cold there. Ours eventually has not quite gone back to where it should be but close. I've sure have been going threw a lot more fire wood this year also.

[@brianbashaw5599]

Hi Mike,,, The door problem can be dealt with easily, remove the door frame and all , and let in a piece of 2" angle iron, I have let in 2x2's but its more work, one pass with the chainsaw and the post will take the angle. the angle will be located so it can slide in the post (up and down). so a few inches gap top and bottom , then when you reset your door tap some 1/4" 20 holes into the angle and secure your strike side like that with the screws the when the post goes up and down , the angle iron which is bolted to door jam will slide in the slot . Good Luck! Brian

[@billsmith-wq5or]

Call your contractor that should be warranty

[@njb7209]

I would at least let them know they have a problem with short posts and frost heaving.

[@tjstrain280]

How about the top piece of aluminum trim above the door?? It is bent also. Your theory on the short side post sounds dead on if it is just stuck a little in the ground with dirt below it. I know the frost line in northern Delaware was 32-36”. It’s gotta be at least 42-48 inches by you in western PA.

[@bendigr]

@12:04 - "next weekend is the end of February" ? Oops

[@nh603]

I think Mike flipped his calendar a little early.

[@toddw392]

It may not be the cold or a frost line problem. You mentioned that the other posts are laminated, but that one door post looks like a treated solid post. It is possible that the solid post is warping and causing the problem. I have treated 4x4 posts on my porch, and one of them warped quite badly and caused similar aluminum trim damage. Just a thought. I hope you find a simple fix for it. Good luck!

[@aezeldenrust]

Must be nice to be in Pennsylvania if your calendar is a month ahead of ours up here in Ontario, next week we are just getting into February.

[@rickcassell9613]

Ya I caught that also , don’t hurry your time away! 👍

[@michaelcarron3418]

That short post needs another piece added to the top, so the upper continuous header can put pressure on the of the building down through to the footer. Will need a metal reinforced band where it joins and some carriage bolts with nuts and washers. Buy some thick square tube about 20 inches long, then cut it lengthwise through to wrap around the posts joint.

[@jmar5787]

GM Mike, looks like there is no header above that man door that could be the problem....

[@homernextdoor5950]

Doesn't need one, post and beam construction.

[@jmar5787]

I did in my barn and No issues, overhead, windows and man doors. Either way now you have to open up the wall to fix it!!

[@Corey-th4hc]

Our front door always move during the Winter. We live in a Single wide mobile home and it’s been pretty cold in Western Ky lately. Happens every year so I do the same as you mentioned. I just let warm up and eventually it gets better. Things are always gonna freeze and thaw so I just let it be. That’s bummer with y’all cooktop stove. If i needed a cooktop stop immediately I would have searched Facebook marketplace. It’s amazing how much nice gently used stuff u can find in your local area that people just replace because they don’t like the color. If you can find one you like . No wait and can pick it up fairly soon usually.

[@lsantang]

i wish mike would just put a scroll when the fire starter is available.. he pimps it three times in every video

[@williamshouse9219]

My metal building started to get some deformities in the metal trim around the doors the first really cold snap we had here in NC. My building is metal frame on concrete pad. I figured it was the concrete pad raising due to the cold ground. Luckily it wasn't as severe as what you have going on. It was just right where the trim meets the concrete.

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[@markcollins457]

I think your on the right track about the door issue, but i would like to add another thing to look for. Look out for excessive water around that door if there is a concrete pad poured to the door it may not show but the hydraulic action of freezing water coul push that up real easy real fast.

[@TimKemp-u7h]

Mike when they framed the barn and install the bottom 2×8 it make a different in how it done , the 2×8 needs by pass the sort post an tide to the taller post to carrier the frame work on the out side of the barn and where the door set in place cut 3 1/2 down from the top of the 2×8 door set the door on the cut out , if the 2×8 stop at the sort side an it will move up an down the cement an can cause problem s . If you have any questions contact me

[@davidmorse8432]

Hello! 😊 Minus 15! I can hardly even imagine that.

[@mitchellchambers4852]

Morning 😊

[@peteatthefarm4459]

Morning David, hope your Sunday is a great one, warming up to -2C, might have to break out the shorts 😅 enjoy

[@davidmorse8432]

@mitchellchambers4852 Hi Mitchell! 👍

[@mitchellchambers4852]

​@@davidmorse8432have a great warm day

[@davidmorse8432]

@peteatthefarm4459 Hi Pete, Sounds warm considering how cold it is for Mike. We have rain today. Currently 48° F going up to 54 by afternoon. Going to church this morning then just relax the rest of the day, maybe do some time on my elliptical trainer. 😅

[@johnkayak10]

The church I go to is a Morton metal building. It has the same issues in the cold but on the horizontal plane. When it gets below zero the ceiling tile buckle because the metal tees shrink and the crown molding on the ceiling as well. It always goes back when it warms up. The only way I can think of to fix your door is make the metal trim around fit into another trim with room to move to and fro with cold so it can expand and contract.

[@Just_in_time_outdoors]

Call the guys who built it for you. They can fix it. A new post needs to be installed deeper. You will need to disassemble the interior around the door 1st

[@georgefarning69]

Good Sunday morning, Morgan's and fans!!! Stay warm. Hopefully, Hq gets solved quickly.

[@L46C3]

I added a porch several years ago to my home in Morris (Northwest CT). My concrete form tubes were all of 42 inches deep. A 10 day cold snap (below 0) came and lifted the porch along with the roof. My dear friend (we're both now in our 70's) who has built more than 600 homes mentioned he's seen the frost actually grab hold of the concrete and lift it as if it (frost) wrapped its arms around the concrete piers and lifted it. This could have happened to the singular door post. My $0.02

[@mapletreehomestead3437]

Mike I live in northern Vermont and have seen the very same thing and you’re absolutely correct, you can wait it out or like other people have said you can heat the snot out of it but I don’t think it will make a difference just wait it out and go into problem solving then!

[@lynhendry5523]

I've been watching the problem with your door. We live in ND and have sub zero quite often this time of the year. I have a suggestion on how you could fix your frost heaving problem. When spring comes and you can open it up easiest from the inside, dig a deep hole along side your problem pole and "stub' in a longer pole and tie the two together.

[@wolfpack4128]

I think you're right. Making them all load-bearing is the only way to fix this long term. They need to settle, shrink, and grow at the same rate.

[@jerryholmesHomeboy]

Mike watching the video as you showed the pictures of the build I noticed another issue that maybe aiding in the freeze lifting you had mentioned you felt like that post wasn’t deep enough that could very well be the problem. But I noticed that post really has no down force load on it at all. Any load could and may have helped that post from heaving repairing I believe I would connect it the beam above for more structural strength!

[@duanewilson3941]

Mike, when you do finally dig out the post and replace, I would tie it in up top to that header as well. If it were me, I'd probably fix the trim and get the door working properly and wait and see. It's been unusually cold this year and it could be years before it's -15 again. jmo.

[@DouglasFergen-pq9ru]

Reminds me of growing up in SD! But I do miss the wind but in the summer but not the winter!

[@joecapo8292]

Hi Melissa, Mike, I am sure that the short post heaved. Is there a header over the door? One thing that you can do, is connect your radiant floor heat. That post should have been full length. It is going to be a project to replace the post. You may need to remove siding and roof panels to get the full length post in. As well as a crane to remove and replace with a full length length post. It is doable, do you have a warranty still, on the building. I am sure you will contact your insurance Co. Your lucky that the damage wasn't any worse. The company that built the building has to come and do a complete assessment of the damage. You are actually lucky that the building is well supported. Just a thought, Joe Capo.

[@brianbarclay4316]

I think you are spot on with the door problem. That is how my barn was built and that post twisted on mine a little as it dried out.

[@martineastburn3679]

I have a 33x70 foot steel building 6" think slab. My cylinder in the building main door a double door. The cylinder in the knob to get in and out shortens and get fatter. In heat 118 this summer caused some breakage with the cylinder expanding in the steel doors. I kept spraying in quality door oil that helped a bit. But I have to replace the Knob and the inners. Just to get the money to do that. My shop has the same issue but came later. Concrete floor metal frame and door.

[@johnstromgren9022]

I live in Northern Minnesota our posts have to be 5' deep. My building was built in 1977 and started out with 7' x 16' overheat door. In few years I had to add wood to the bottom of the door to fill the gape at the bottom of the door. And every few years add a little more. Then I put in a 7' 6" door. finally a few years ago I pulled the 4 post out of the ground and framed a wall on the concrete floor and now I have a 8' ' overhead door. The frost was pulling the posts up. My suggestion is to take that post out and frame a wall on the floor. I was a licensed contractor in the state of Minnesota. This is a common problem in my area.

[@larryterrell8458]

Nice update, I have the same bldg and door design, great info for me. Yes to firewood rack for HQ, an ibc tote has its place but not for decor. 🇺🇸

[@jakewhitaker2502]

Should have done concrete piers with Mid-West Perma Column wet set brackets. With the floor already poured and the way the posts are in the ground, you could take all your tin off and try to build a substantial header between two posts you know are below the frost line and that are good. You could also try to remove that short post and dig a 48" hole, fill it with concrete, replace the post using a bracket, and replacing all your metal and trim. Should of never happened to begin with, but that's in the past.

[@jimz.438]

I think you are correct; the post was not below the frostline, and the freezing has raised that specific post up vertically. What about retrofitting a slip joint in this post so you won't have to dig a new hole deeper to get below the frostline. This looks like a non-load bearing post and it's just there for the door jamb.

[@johnmastin7620]

I think you’re exactly right with the problem with the door. It looks like what needs to be done. Is the bottom of that post needs to be sawed off so there’s a space between the the ground and where you saw it off,, structurally it’s not doing anything,it doesn’t go up to the top. It’s only there for the latch in the door, but not the hinge side of the door. So you’re good there. Yes, I do think that the frost heaved it. Maybe they can cut the bottom of the post off and then put something on the bottom that allows it to move up and down, but still holds the bottom structurally there.

[@robertrosanelli444]

Mike. I believe the reason the door frame buckled is related to the short post, which does not meet the cross beam above. Since it is the only one that does not touch the cross beam, it was not blocked from rising up (from the cold ground), and it rose. The others did not as they were blocked by the cross beam. This was an error in the design and construction of your building. In warmer weather, you can add a length to the post, so that it meets the cross beam, and then it should not rise up again. That is my guess anyway.

[@eugenewillsey2135]

Hi Mike, Watched a guy put a piece of ABS pipe on the edge of his snow blade. Cut it to length and split the length of it. separate to start then drive it on. moves the snow and leaves the gravel. If you have a piece laying around give it a try. good luck, stay warm. have a day.

[@bretthess6376]

1:00 "the screws are loose on the top hinge..." That sounds familiar. I think I've got a couple of loose screws myself. However, I lost a bag of old marbles several years ago, and recently found them in a closet. So at least I haven't lost my marbles. 😁

[@dno5779]

Since the heaving post is on the jamb (latch) side, cut it off at the ground. The hinge side is carrying the weight of the door. Maybe cut some plywood in an "L" or "U" & place where the indoor casing is to tie the jamb side to the header & hinge side. Great illustration - I'm glad I live a little farther south....🏖

[@Vermontractor]

Hey Mike the amount that door sagged vs the metal trim would indicate to me that the metal trim was tight to the exterior concrete. So if indeed it was a tight fit if the concrete moved up on the patio that would cause that trim to buckle. So when you fix it in the spring( I am thinking it will just return to original position) If you do have to replace that piece leave a 1/4 gap on the bottom to allow for movement. I bet it just goes back though.

[@Hallnout]

If builder didn't place polystyrene atleast 36" down on outside of footer/slab @ door opening, I'm not a gambling man but i would go all in, that's exactly what caused the heave. You might have been ok with the short 4x4 pole ( I wouldn't have) but if no polystyrene that's exactly what caused the heaving. Polystyrene @ any opening in a structure (especially one being heated) is a must and code here, I believe. If you had your radiant floor hooked up and running, it probably wouldn't have happened but builder shouldn't expect or rely on that from owner if that's what happened. Only or best fix honestly would be to get your radiant flooring hooked up this summer. You could remove a sheet or two of metal on outside of building for access vs tearing out the finished interior. If I remember you installed polystyrene on inside. Just not certain how much access you'll have to make the proper repair such as running out the short 4x4 up to top framing, then you would have to some how reinforce that splice. It would be a big headache for sure and a mess. I would talk to Tom and definitely call the builder. Look back and see if they installed polystyrene @ door opening. Put your framing square on a few spots, corner of door casing. Put you level on a few spots checking for plumb. Just my 2 cents.