Never Been More SCARED - Rolls Royce PART 42

[@slouchee3767]

Vince, the safer and right way is to disconnect the shock first, and lower the trailing arm as much as possible, then the spring compressor tools only have to compress the spring a little bit allowing it to slide from underneath the slots they are in, please do not compress the springs THAT much, please lower the trailing arm, that way there isnt so much tension built up in that spring.

[@theothertonydutch]

Seconding this. This is just a very bad idea :s

[@Lcj762]

Vince you should do it the way @slouchee3767 recommends it's much safer, the more pressure you put on them springs the more chance of the spring compressor slipping good luck with this one.

[@LUFCOZZY]

if you release both shocks you will be able to push down on the brake disk and force the spring out

[@yambo59]

Ive changed many spring in my years of car work and I agree, take as much tension off as possible by putting a jack under the trailing control arm and with torsion bar, shock and its lines or whatever disconnected then slowly lower the arm until its down far enough the spring has very littlle tension on it. Also, some folks will even put a heavy chain through the middlie of the spring/arm and lock it with a pad lock in case its pressure is still worrisome. What hes doing here is very dangerous on such a heavy car with really stout springs. His real problem may be getting it back in correctly with this method, there are rubber snubbers that need to be at top and bottom, they isolated the spring noise from the car. To his credit he is getting the job done, but I would keep my hands away from the ends of the spring because if it was to let go the ends are the dangerous part as the spring is under compression and if it lets go it will spring outward at each end, the ends are the dangerous part holding it free with the compressor tools on it. Hes right to be concerned with the welding, its a critical area and could do a lot of damage as well as cause an accident.

[@st200ol]

I got to 14:30 and I don’t think I can watch anymore, now hiding behind the sofa, tell me when it’s safe to come out.

[@timvangenechten5258]

I'm really not a cars person, but surprisingly this series is the one I'm most dedicated to on your channel. I know this project Isn't the most lucrative, but I really appriciate it. Thanks Vince, just keep things safe as its not worth losing bodyparts or your life.

[@NatureOkie]

not lucrative? I'd imagine a ROLLS Royce loses little value, ...then, at a tipping point, begins to increase in value as that model becomes more rare!

[@williamshannon8514]

Your repair videos are always helpful and informative regardless of whether you feel you’re doing them wrong or right, provides your viewers with a starting point. Much respect from the USA.

[@jason7741]

Classic Vince quotes 'my head must be too big for my body' and 'my head will be torn off but at least my eyes will still look good' 😂

[@RobinHood-vi2yi]

I’ve worked as a mechanic for over 35 years, I have done many of these type of jobs but never like this you should remove the trailing arm and weld it on a bench it will be much easier and you will get a better weld Trying to weld upside down is only good for floor panels and sills. fighting against gravity is never a good idea especially when you’re welding something like a spring mount. Hope this advice is helpful for you keep up the good work Vince look forward to your next video

[@darrenhawksley4459]

Hi Vince, my pal has just come out of hospital having nearly died! He’s had to have metal plates, stitches to rebuild his face! And he’s a professional working for a very large professional tyre and suspension specialist. You can’t get better apparently. Been working on cars for 30 years!! He’s ok thankfully but you’re spot on. 👌👌🙏✨✨

[@highpath4776]

Can you get clear strong full face visors to protect ?

[@darrenhawksley4459]

@@highpath4776 yeah of course but unfortunately even professionals get sloppy with safety and then these things happen!! The coil is under a ton of pressure and Vince is spot on !! These things are like a bomb when they release and very very dangerous. 😩😩👍

[@cbmsysmobile]

Those springs are bloody dangerous. Had to do this on my '93 Bentley Brooklands. I made the tools to compress the spring and the central retainer tool. I welded a second nut on the inside of the top cup as a backup. Never have I been more nervous than taking the spring compressed to 1/2 it's free length out of the compressor with only a single 12mm HT studding holding it under tension and installing it on the car. The strut (shock) will be slack if there is no hydraulic pressure in the system. Or your rear spheres are shot....

[@dawn5227]

I completely understand why you were so scared taking that spring out. I had a spring snap on my car as I was driving at 70mph. I was lucky it only sprung out and blew out the tire. I was on my way to a funeral. A police officer stayed with my car for brakedown to come retrieve it while I got a lift in the police car with another officer so I could still make it to the funeral. You can imagine the looks I recieved 😮

[@michaelthomas3646]

luckily only the tire, as so much energy in a coil to make someone else's day a lot worse.

[@martin-uz1py]

Hi Vince I'm not a car mechanic but if you are working on anything where you put your hands in a tight area think about taking your watch off. If you need to move quickly the last thing you want is to have a watch catch on something and besides you don't want to break the glass on it.

[@SDogo]

Vince. Just a little help with the welding part. 1. Use clamps to align the "cup" part into the chassis. 2. Put some temporary tack welds to glue the brackets to the cup. 3. Remove the thing already prewelded, and do the real welds outside the car. 4. Now you need to install a single piece

[@18000rpm]

This channel turned into a suspense thriller

[@bobgorman9481]

Well, my nerves are shattered after watching that!! I've used the same clamps as yours in the past, but always on much lighter cars of course, and I always considered them as spring " retainers" rather than " compressors " ie, load up the car as much as possible, then attach the clamps over as many coils as possible, screw them hand tight then jack up the car and then remove shocks and lower arms .

[@garystevens6831]

24:12 - Had to laugh, you looked like you'd been through a coal mine! 🤣

[@AeiKei]

Wow Vince you really played it dangerously. I'm happy you are safe & sound. This is a very difficult fix without a ramp where you could lift the car completely and work way easier

[@tomasvrab]

I appreciate you mentioned the grandfather clock spring danger. I am starting to mess with old clocks and I am about to look at one without the weights. Love what your doing... you have inspired me to tinkle a while ago and doing a car on your channel is a cherry on top.

[@zincmann]

Vince looks like a job for Kaptein tape LOL. Excellent job as always.

[@alexdixon2731]

More my mate wince than Vince when compressing that spring! Not a pleasant job to do, but fair play for doing it. Loving the series

[@MrLukxas]

Vince! You always mention how important are comments on your videos, especially the one that explain your concerns! Maybe next time, when you are going to do the extremely dangerous job, consider placing a comment on your social board on KZbin and ask all of the folks about the tips&tricks before you get the job done! There is a lot of benefits to it: you will get a lot of useful information about the job that you want to get done, you are going to be on a lot safer side when working (none of your subscribers wants you to get hurt, at least I hope so😅), you and all of the folks out here will gain a lot more knowledge (which is the best part as for me!😊), And probably the best one, you are going to make the community a lot closer to each other as well as built your social platform stronger (that way maybe you are going to get more subscribers/ sponsors!). Hope that you consider it! I know that mystery videos are fascinating and you never know what kind of entertainment expect from you, but considering that, there are sometimes videos that could easily hurt you (not to mention the worst part), just to be on the safe side, please consider this idea before doing the job done! Hope you are doing fine! All the best! 😊

[@EverydayLinuxUser]

This would make a great TV show. I have enjoyed every minute of this series

[@stouty6784]

As a mechanic that was hard to watch, undoing the bottom shock absorber bolt with a trolley jack under the coil spring and lowering the rear trailing arm would have been the safer thing to do, the spring would pretty much fall out at that point. The fact that you knew that it could kill you and still did it baffles me too :P

[@chrisel2286]

These cars have a very long spring travel and a lot of the spring length is captive top and bottom, so in this case you really should use the factory tool which threads down the center and compresses it enough. Lowering the trailing arm won't do it, and I'd be worried about multi-purpose spring compressor "claw" tools being strong enough given the coil strength. These are really built to 3/4 ton truck standards in terms of the size and strength of components.

[@vidfletch]

I can't watch you when you do mechanics on this. It's terrifying.

[@ralphj4012]

Best thriller, so far. Although I did have my eyes closed most of the time, and I had visions of those spring compressors failing (with the aforementioned head removal), I thought of perhaps using jubilee clips (opened and then wrapped around and secured onto the spring coils) to reduce the likelihood of the compressors sliding around the coils. After. of course, the shock absorber had been released and the trailing arm lowered.

[@Sam_Holt]

I was chopping springs on a volvo while they were under tension. When the spring blew it caught the angle grinder disc which exploded in my face. It hit me in the head and knocked me out. Taught me a very valuable lesson on messing about with springs. Super lucky I didn't get seriously injured.

[@APSuk2]

Got to admit Vince I was wincing a few times during this one as like you stated very clearly this is a very dangerous job. You also mention in the video about detaching the shock absorber from the trailing arm and I would have done this as it would have made your life much easier as you would have had to compress the spring much less to get it out. To be honest if I was working on my back like yourself I would have just taken the entire trailing arm off the welded it as trying to weld it in such a cramped and awkward space will not help in getting a good weld & finish. You need to be relaxed and comfortable to weld properly. The trailing arm will move up and down very easily since you have removed the spring. Once you get the spring back in it will be very hard to move the trailing arm as you are having to compress the spring. If you are going to use rope to secure the spring also wrap the rope around the clamps as these are also very dangerous as they fly off and as they are lighter than the spring the can fly quite a distance. Tying the clamps to the spring is highly recommended as if something does fail they will be kept together. As I have said in the past I do not like those clamps as they are very dangerous as they can slip off easily & the cheaper ones that are welded to together are even worse. You can buy a MacPherson strut spring compressor off Amazon or eBay for £100 that uses yokes and a heavy duty thread to compress the spring which are much safer. Also when welding so close to fuel lines you need to cover them, it is very easy for a stray spark or splatter to melt straight through a rubber fuel line & you can wave bye bye to the car and what's around it. This risk is further more increased as you are using a gas less welder which creates even more splatter and sparks. We used to cover them with scrap pieces of sheet metal and clamps to hold the pieces in place but most of the time the work piece was removed from the vehicle negating this issue. You are going to have to replace that parking cable Vince, I have never seen anyone weld one back together before but any M.O.T tester worth their salt would not pass that cable in that condition. Once the outer metal sheath has broken this allows water and dirt inside causing the cable to stick or seize solid causing the parking brake to stick on, not operate at all or cause reduced effort leading to an imbalance in braking force applied to each wheel. As this is a braking component it is critical for safety and it must be replaced. Seeing as you already have one end of the cable disconnected this would be the best time to replace it as half the job is already done. I am surprised you did not melt the plastic coating that covers the inner steel rope inside the parking cable from the heat generated by the welding. Even with the repair once the car is one the road water & dirt will enter the cable and it will fail to work correctly. I would not buy the Rolls Royce spring compression tool but instead get some threaded bar that threads into the cups on the car and use this instead. This will be much cheaper that buying the "official tool" but I would still prefer to use the MacPherson strut spring compression tool as these are much safer.

[@bolombolom]

Hi. I think you should perhaps remove the rear train completely. You will gain time and more easy access to whole suspension things. You are couragous! Thanks for sharing your work.

[@bernardcromarty485]

In the days when I used to do DIY McPherson strut repairs, I used to use three spring compressors, and wire them together so they wouldn't move. Oh, and I wouldn't use them to compress the spring - the weight of the car would do that, and they would only hold the compressed spring as I jacked the car up again. I'm guessing the make is Sykes-Pickavant...

[@dodgydruid]

You will be pleased to know my watch collecting journey has come to an end, I managed to acquire the last two pieces of the 472 watch puzzle that being a Zlatoust deep sea diver and a Seiko 6309 diver and what a journey its been but my much reduced grails list I crossed off the last two this month and that is my collection done :) All started from when I watched your first watch repair vid and I decided I would like a go at that fixing two quartz Sekonda's and moving on from there into Soviet and Seiko group, my penultimate Seiko group was a Pulsar 7S26 and I got a beautiful gold one in box with papers. Yesterday I got my Seiko monster homage, its all gone swiftly to its conclusion :D Cheers m8 for the unlooked for gift :) :) :)

[@ale6242]

Worked on springs before. They are absolutely terrifying, they demand yur respect and undivided attention which is exactly what you gave it here!

[@rondickson1491]

Another great video. Scary stuff compressing large springs like that. Stay safe! Best wishes from the USA!!

[@I_Don_t_want_a_handle]

You are a braver man than I, Gunga Din. There's a reason mechanics exist, and this is it. 😃

[@malcolmscott9566]

Hi Vince, you can buy an anti-splatter spray that you can apply when using a flux cored welder (gasless), I believe there is also a paste that you can dip the welder nozzle into that also stops the welding splatter. That may help when you get to the welding .... good luck.

[@ferris7290]

and they sell it in Lidl at the moment...

[@dglcomputers1498]

@@ferris7290 What don't they sometimes sell in Lidl!, It's one of the few supermarkets that a man will happily shop in, yes I got the food we needed and a few extras 😀 Brought an engraving tool last year, just because I thought that I might have a use for it, as I now cut keys at work and they all need to have the key number on them it's a good tool for it.

[@ThomasB-656]

This is the only video in this series I couldn't watch. I played it in the background and listened to it, but it's just too scary.

[@coolissimo69]

I can't believe this is part 42, the series went so fast. Very risky work with the spring you got me very nervous Vince. Looking forward to part 43.

[@karlfell3768]

One of the very few tools in my collection that i would never lend out to anyone. I am an ex professional mechanic and have seen the damage to persons and property that springs can cause if not treated with the utmost respect.

[@HaroldTheWizardCat]

Long time subscriber here- Please be careful!

[@Metabolis]

Keen to see how the seats look now!

[@raysmancave1]

Vince if youre not happy with the plate weld strength, drill through the plates and plug weld the holes. Give the welds a hit with your grinder to make them tidy and voila a good strong repair. Yes gassless welders are splattery, it's the flux inside the wire that causes it. It will take you more time in the clean up stage using gassless. Not nice getting a red hot piece of spatter down the back of your neck. The spring compressor you used isn't really big enough for a roller spring, luckily it compressed far enough to get the spring out of their, The roller spring compressors are a Pain in the A** to use, yes they compress the spring well, but removing the spring takes quite a bit of twisting and shoving. If I was you I'd leave the spring compressed as it is and slide it back in place, if you remove the compressor the spring will open a lot longer and you might not be able to compress it far enough to replace it, (the car was compressing it a bit before you started) But great job done so far, and youve saved on paying someone to weld it up.

[@theatheisthammer]

Ive been rebuilding a prelude and ive no garage and because of health problems can only do a little work at a time ao its a constant battle with good weathwr and feeling atrong enough. After dialasys and thats thw least of my medical issues, but i understand the feeling of relief and acheivment when completing one of the many jobs in the project. 👍👍👍 keep it up.

[@unclealbert294]

Seeing the thumbnail and title of this video put the biggest smile on my face! Not just me that's shit scared of these things, hate using the compression tools that much and treat them like a bomb may go off any second that I went and bought a industrial bench hydrolic one 😂

[@bobfrankish8883]

Ah Vince! Always look forward to the RR videos. Please may I give you some advice based on my 20 years experience of restoring old cars on a budget. Your welds with that welder may look OK but they won't be. I have a 150 amp Sealy MIG which claims to be able to weld 5mm sheet, but in reality, it is only just capable, and on the maximum setting draws more than 13 amps from the mains, so you need a much larger welder and possibly a 16 amp supply. As regards the compressors, sometimes the "widow-makers" are the only type you can get in to do the job, which is probably the case in this instance. I have a set which came from Machine Mart, they are not that expensive, and there are 3, which if you can get them on it's safer than 2, and they have extra little clamps on them which you tighten up to stop them slipping as much. As others say, yours look bone dry, get the threads greased up as much as you can. Also the MM ones have a 1/2" square hole in them so they accept a 1/2" ratchet or bar directly, way better than a spanner. The way I would tackle this is to get a jack under the trailing arm assembly and jack it up to approximately normal ride height. Fit the compressors using as many coils as physically possible, tighten them up. Slowly let the jack down and remove the trailing arm from the car. This will be a terribly hard job for you in reality, because you are well lacking in tools. Clean off the arm, check all the bushings and renew if needed, take the arm and the repair kit to a friendly professional welder and let them do the job for you. Any decent MIG to give you strong welds on that gauge of steel is going to set you back £400 minimum. As others have said, stick welding is an option on thick steel.

[@general23cmp]

Great video. You can use the weight of the car to compress the spring. Place your tool on the compressed spring, and then when you Jack the car up (safely away from the compressed spring), it will often come right out.

[@jochenstacker7448]

I'm absolutely amazed how far you came with the old gal. On a sidenote, I would never wear a watch I cared about whilst grinding and welding. 😊

[@smashyrashy]

I would

[@wisher21uk]

Brilliant nice work yet again Vince hopefully it will all work out in the end, totally agree about the dangers, a guy I know was doing a shock absorber and it ended going up the inside of his arm wasn’t a pretty sight

[@fishandreptileinfo]

This video, in my opinion, is the best you have filmed. I really enjoyed this one Vince. in parts of it, my heart was in my mouth HA HA.

[@Torbay-rox]

Hi vince great video as usual, could you not release the bottom of the shock absorber to allow the arm to come down to get the spring in and out ? Be much safer and easier then just jack the arm back up to bolt the shock back on . Im not sure as ive never worked on a rolls royce. Keep up the great vids

[@Mymatevince]

I was thinking that, but there was this crossmember metal rod thing linking the diff to the body that the trailing arm was nearly resting on. I think that would have to be undone as well 👍👍

[@no1froggy]

That method has worked on every car i have worked on so far, sometimes you may have to lever the arm down or jump on the hub!.

[@bobuilt10]

​@@MymatevinceI agree with the comment on removing the shocker first. The suspension works on a leverage principle so a little bit of movement at the pivot end would be considerably more at the opposite end. Also a bit of grease on the threads of the compressors works a treat.

[@bertlzansinger]

Absolutely a dangerous endeavor, operating like this. To get a grip on the proper compressed spring the shock has to be loosened on the strut mount firstly. This will allow the package to be lowered and the spring to be removed much more easily. Howsoever, cheers mate!

[@thegees]

have finally caught up to the present episode, absolutely loved it so far, hope all these dangerous jobs go by alright though haha

[@GmKofHard]

The ticking time bomb. As a mechanic i have done loads of these and it yeah if it slips off it can easily take your head off. First mistake and a really dangerous mistake you made was you didn't lower the wheel hub assembly down. If you would have then it wouldn't need near as much to clasp the coil spring. Dude you made me feel stupidly scared just watching you.

[@jochenwuerfel]

Springs are the most scary part in a car.. especially old one which are also a bit rusty and/or rust around them. Take care Vince!

[@ryan61384]

Vince if you get a TV show in the UK called Wheeler Dealers you should watch it cause they just renovated a Rolls Royce Silver Spirit from the 80's. I thought you might want to see that episode. It might help you renovate yours.

[@dodgydruid]

An idea for grinding protection, see if down the local tip they got in an old leather sofa you can slice off some good sized patches. Then when grinding delicate areas wrap or lay the leather on the area needing protecting, use a couple zip ties if need be to hold in place and it means the leather will take the hit before pipes and metal underneath. I have seen people use thick cardboard at a pinch, straw doormats also quite a useful protector but prone to combusting if very dry, rubber floor mats will bounce a "hit" pretty well.

[@abdulhkeem.alhadhrami]

I can't blame you Vince even experienced car mechanics get extremely and i mean "extremely" careful around these springs!

[@KrozMcD]

Sore neck/head easily remedied by getting a wedge type foam pillow or something equivalent for resting your head on for those awkward angle jobs!

[@devttyUSB0]

Yeah, having a proper car lift would be real nice in this situation. Great job though!

[@PracticalDadd]

When I did rear springs recently in a newer vehicle , I ended up dropping the rear hub down by first removing the various suspension control arms and links. Just had to support the hub first with a jack. Also, I agree that compressing springs is extremely scary business. I did it once and never will again.

[@Omegaman1969]

I wouldn’t use those widowmaker spring compressors….I’ve had one of those fly off in the past . Get the disc type and attach a ratchet strap around it just in case.

[@neilw3149]

Glad to see you're ok 👍I like to think I'm pretty good with cars, changed engines, turbos etc & sorted electrics but springs scare the poop out of me, and spring compressors, I've done several shocks and springs but now I get the garage to do them if at all possible, fair play for tackling it but take care though and good luck with the project!

[@richardjones5255]

You can easily bypass the rotten bottom plate. All you needed was the threaded rod and several thick, large 'penny' washers, and then you can do the job the RR way. I noted your concern about those clamps, the asymmetric clamping worried me as it might make things more liable to slip. However, with that said and done you achieved a safe fix, so well done.

[@dazzypops]

Hopefully there's a handy comment in the midst of these that might offer a glimmer about the brackets as it does sound a wee bit odd why one would be so 'off'. You certainly had your big boy pants on with this one, well done on keeping your head, quite literally!

[@deliawood1]

Many years ago, ( 64 in fact ) I worked at Vauxhall for a few weeks and they had me assembling the front suspension. I had to compress the springs then put the steering knuckle in to hold it in place. I was terrified that it would fly out before I could bolt it down so I know what you are feeling.

[@hgvmatt6710]

I was nearly killed when I was a 16yr old apprentice mechanic. I was told to wind clamps with an air wrench, being young I didn’t realise the speed of the wrench!.., it shot the clamp to last thread, bottomed out & span the clamp out, spring shot up & caught my forehead.., almost unconscious on the floor with vast amounts of blood escaping I was rushed to hospital where doctor said half an inch in almost any other direction I’d probably have died or been seriously injured. With stitches like 50lb fishing line & a forehead like the elephant man (was gutted I couldn’t fit my crash helmet on & ride my Kawasaki AR50!) I was ok. For the next 25yrs as a technician I NEVER used air tools again on them, I used to sweat using the clamps after my accident. I eventually passed my class 1 Hgv, left the motor trade and that’s now history.., lucky to be alive👍 when they go they go.., you will not see it coming, that I can promise 😬 ps; I prefer the ‘fixing vintage electronic games’ vids!😂

[@kennethcroll6972]

hi MMV, your only 5 mins, but here's what you could do.1. jack up the rear lower arm a bit 2. remove lower nut/bolt from the shock. 3. lower the jack slowly. that will release some of the spring tension. making it a bit safer and sometimes the spring will just fall out. i've did this on a e class w210 by putting the jack on the rear lower arm where the inner bolt it and then removing that bolt and lower shock nut, after that lowed the jack and the spring came out. very easy

[@leatherles]

You should take your watch off when you do mechanical work like that. I ruined a few before my Brain matured. Extremely impressed with your level of Confidence going forward. Starting with 'Hey so I'm going to fix this Bad boy myself' followed by the 2nd, 3rd and 4th guessing game you played with us for when you screwed it up. 😅 PS. Your skill and knowledge on the Electrical front is Amazing...so glad thats your Forte!

[@Benjiboy1962]

Vince, put your jack under the trailing arm and jack it up. Make sure the body of the car is as high as possible and obviously stable. Remove the shock absorber and anything else that will stop the arm from pivoting. Gently lower the jack until the spring is fully extended and lift it out. I’m not familiar with a Rolls Royce but this is the way I’ve always removed springs when I haven’t had the correct manufacturers tool available. I haven’t watched the video yet or read any of the comments. I hope it didn’t bite you too hard!

[@gerrymichaud3851]

I was changing the struts in a Toyota Tercel. I had the strut on a bench and the spring compressors slipped off and the spring went flying out of the garage door.

[@VladoT]

For the back springs I always try to lower the arm as low as possible which means disconnecting everything and usually the spring can be taken out by hand.

[@jmarynicz]

Yep, generally you can get a big pry bar on the A-Arm (wishbone, whatever you wanna call it) to pry things down and pull the spring out (after disconnecting shocks, ARBs, etc), by that point there is generally no pressure on the spring, just the rubber dampers keeping it in place. Stick a jack under the A-Arm and jack it up to compress the spring when putting it back into place. The only time I ever use spring compressors are for assembled struts and then you use a scissor style one rather than those single piece spring compressors, but if you must use those, at least use the ones with the locking mechanism that will stop them from popping off the spring.

[@ricardovelazquez5715]

Let's just say he is jacked up but seriously be safe out there

[@mrjsv4935]

Certainly dangerous to work with coil springs, especially in big and heavy car like this Rolls-Royce. Probably helps if you disconnect the shock absorber, and maybe even some trailing arms, to maximize the suspension travel down to be able to compress the spring as little as possible. Of course when disconnecting these parts, the spring want's to kick the wheel hub down, so there has to be floorjack underneath to take the load down in controlled way. Floorjack also helps when putting everything back together against that spring tension.

[@benc8386]

Great video. You aren't really supposed to do multiple passes with a gasless welder (unless you have a special wire for it which most people don't have). Very tricky to do a critical weld like this in situ. Ideally you would take the lower arm off (although I appreciate that is probably quite hard) and then get a really good TIG or MIG weld in there off the car where you can position properly.

[@dodgydruid]

Lidl's have in at the mo their £34 arc welders, gasless or flux cores are OK up to most jobs but its kinda suggested that you need a decent power mig, tig or arc welder for structural work like a spring cup simply as the gasless struggles to maintain good deep penetration on thick plate metals.

[@jreding132]

about 35 years ago, when I was 17 years old I compressed a McPhearson strut with those same tools, the tool slipped the 3/4" nut hit between the eyes and I went unconcious for about minute and had a black eye. Probably explains a few of my quirks!

[@UltimatelyEverything]

Ouch that sounds painful at least you're still here alive and kicking

[@damionspiers8772]

Vince I love your videos your a really good channel to watch PLEASE DO NOT EVER USE A SPANNER ON SPRING COMPRESSING TOOLS you should use a ratchet or a impact air gun never use spanner’s

[@ducatisteve20081]

Vince you scare me I’m a mechanic you should of got threaded bar to screw into top cup 420 mm long 2 flat plates 60 mm wide 8 mm thick to do spring remove os support bar then Lower arm with jack place a chain through spring this is safer than rope your welding wire and plant lacking around 70 more amps to do this job safely when refitting we use spray wax under cups as they do move and start rusting again for the extra hour to remove arm to weld cup and side supports on nice the large plate you would be better to add in a thin plate around 5 mm rather than filling with weld .But love the channel but I’ve got a friend retired now with 2 less fingers because of a mk3 jag spring and what a mess that was HSE book thrown at garage £13/000 pounds fine and tool to do it correctly at the time £90 kit .Please be careful need all your pinky’s for the other videos .

[@whoisme678]

Jack the body up to let the trailing arm drop. Loosen springs from top loosen spring from bottom WD40.. It's the rest of the car needs lifting to allow the trailing arm to hang. Once the trailing arm drops the spring compressions can be used. I wish you lots of luck with this. In years gone by rolls Royce if a car broke down on the road would arrive and cover it and then take it away. A useless bit of info. 🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞 All the best vince. BE SAFE WHEN WORKING. I don't think they do a Haynes workshop manual for RR.

[@t3rr0rdactyl]

Great Job Vince! If you were taking it to the shed for safety, why not just decompress it so you don't have to worry about it exploding? I just redid the shocks on my corrado, 0 issues with the same style spring compressors you have.

[@retrojake228]

Hey Vince if you have a replacement cup why done you put them on and compress the spring that way as added protection now that it’s out?

[@andersmmvfc.8376]

😮 never realised it was this dangerous to change a spring, I was more worried about chopping a finger if i got stuck in between can and spring. but in most cars, we don't need to compress it this mutch, we just drop everything down and hold the spring and gas spring in place.

[@Romantyk_Zagrebelski]

Good work!👍😀👍

[@TechGorilla1987]

@12:58 - When faced with a tool that has surface rust, it would have been proper to lubricate both of the thread mechanisms before using the spring compressors. Any amount of drag as the tension increases just increases the torque needed to spin that fastener.

[@ChicaLocaGB]

My head'll be torn off, but I'll still have my eyes...😂

[@garnhamr]

reminds me of cutting through a safe with a 9'' grinder, trying to control any kickback that may occur xD

[@matthewc.419]

🙈

[@jeremyTallen1]

That trailing arm is massive!

[@brianredmond4919]

Thanks to sadiq khan there should be some cheap Rolls Royce’s around London come September .☹️

[@tomleech9753]

I've always hated those style of spring compressor.

[@djhartley8032]

vince you should take a seperate jack and put it under the cup of the spring to compress it then remove the bolt for the damper then slowly lower the jack but don't take it too far as you may damage brake lines, just lower it slowly and you should just about get enough room to get the spring out

[@AcornElectron]

Pointless me reiterating what most of the comments have already stated. Keep up the good work fella and, as always, stay safe!

[@edgardovigo147]

Good job Mr. Vince, it would be better to remove the suspension arm to do the reapair, better for you and the car 😊.Also you can take the part to the repair shop for inspect your welds, is for make sure is safe to use.

[@raymondholyhead720]

Hi Vince this type of spring compressor can be very dangerous as I have had personal experience of that I nearly lost my hand when one of the spring compressor slipped off with me still holding the spring

[@tasmedic]

Grandfather clocks had their springs replaced with weights and pulleys. Maybe you should replace the RR springs with those, for safety?

[@chekiechekie]

Yikes... was fearing for the bezel of your pagani design when you were trying to compress those springs...

[@opp31337]

oh goody a new rolls video. and a dangerous one to boot! those rotors are lookin pretty thin...

[@plasmaDave]

Many years ago I was hit a very slight glancing blow on the forehead by an escaping suspension spring. The 'proffesional' compressing tool slipped. no injury worse than a graze but several of my nine lives went right there. I've never had that happen since though.

[@skeelo69]

Im sure the breakers yards have seen many a RR...glad you are delaying the eventual visit of this one 😆😆😆

[@Spideyman1001]

Should of used ratchet straps to contain them.... Not done with the video yet... But Vince be careful! All the best, God bless ya.

[@Omega_Mark]

When you work on your back under your car, you could try using an empty plastic bottle as a pillow, so you get less stress on your neck muscles.

[@ggj666]

I went round and asked for old pillows and use them

[@Gizmo1992]

To help you with your welds With flux core welding get rid of the shroud or get a flux core tip Use anti spatter gel or spray On the inside ensure that if you can change the polarity make it so the earth clamp is positive and the gun is negative Youll get a lot less spatter and neater welds

[@acswales]

1 min 30s... 'I'm going to have to get an extra long one'. We could all do with an extra long one Vince. 😉.

[@georgkohlhas8131]

You should have removed the complete trailing arm to be able to cut and weld in better positions. Even a professional welder could not produce a good weld in this Position.

[@chrisrobson8540]

definitely a full arm out job for me that......maybe a bit more work but would have been less time cutting and grinding and also easier to get a decent weld on such a load bearing section of the suspension......10 plus years in the motor trade and i was never comfortable around a compressed spring......seen a few squashed fingers when the compressors have slipped but never actually seen one fail completely thankfully

[@chrism8705]

That spring looks like a steel assassin to risky