NO DRILL TRANSDUCER MOUNT - THE RIGHT WAY! (Take 2)

Using the Stern Saver to mount my transducer.
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Stern Saver: amzn.to/31Sewkz
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The above links are Amazon affiliate

[@MarcShoup-lr5bw]

In general, the TI units are faster in response to inputs. This is seen when quickly switching between sonar, downscan, chart, and split screens kzbin.infoUgkxeAxH15LxhjGlg5-CRYqjTGTEH0tbY4vk recommend The Hook units will show some lag on button pushes and screen switching. The big ticket item though is maps. If you install a mapping card such as Navionics or the free C-Map Genesis which has a lot of map detail, then moving around the map with the cursor or when running down the lake can lag significantly on the Hook units, but is seamless with the TI units.

[@wanesweb]

Hey brother thanks for coming back and tell him it's the truth. You got my instant respect I hope the new one works out I'm going to check it out see if it works on the fiberglass as well I'm sure it will thanks

[@BOBisjustBOB]

Always like to mix epoxy in the dual feed applicator to get the reaction going but a lot tidier job none the less. Just mounted one myself but used a 3/4 inch treated mahogony block cut to size which I epoxy'd and sanded as well at contact to attach sonar. Just found your vlog and looking forward to future posts.

[@fishtacoguy]

Perfect timing on this one. Getting ready to install transducer on my Tracker 1754sc. Don't want to drill into her, so this should fit the need!

[@dph3323]

I used the stern saver on my mako pro skiff and I fish mainly saltwater, it’s still hanging in strong 3 years later

[@vertigoII]

thanks for both videos first one lead me to this one. When I get to it I will try this product !

[@danjohnsonrealestate]

Thanks for this! I have the exact same boat - just got it and was trying to figure out the best way to mount the transducer. I'll see if I can get that product up here in Canada!

[@eyupcanyigit9645]

*Looks good even in daylight **enjoyable.fishing** recommend it was exactly what it was described to be , works awesome , overall happy with product*

[@teddekker3383]

Thank you :-) that's good of you to acknowledge the failure in video 1 ! Tight lines - Ted & Rosie .... Nomads Downunder

[@VerrillvilleOutdoors]

Nice video man!

[@shutupimcooking120]

I used starboard with loctite marine it has been holding up for years.

[@scottthackerjr3844]

Good job making an updated video .

[@davidmiller2238]

I just got a super wide and thick piece of starboard, drilled 4 holes (13 yrs ago), embedded everything in marine grade silicone, then installed my transducer on one side. I still got room for a couple more devices. And if that setup ever leaks, I’ll just fix it using the same holes.

[@garrisonh]

cool! good update

[@tapper754]

im a marine tech and 5200 is used a lot in the marine industry but it shouldn't be the only way you secure down anything on any type of hull. definitely should screw down along with 5200 nd silicone to ensure maximum durability

[@PainterD54]

I good idea to glue thing on (especially around water) is Plumbers GOOP. It will hold your transducer to your boat no peoblem. And the best part is, after years of use, you can peel it off with no marks in the paint.

[@rgg8450]

With any type of glue for boats. Prep both surfaces. Anything under 220-80ish grit. (Nothing sticks to shiny materials)... nothing. Glad you got it worded out

[@josepeixoto3384]

Not really true,not 100%; rear view mirrors are glued onto the glass windshield all the time.

[@rgg8450]

Jose Peixoto great you named one instance of something that doesn’t see much stress or moisture in its lifetime 👍 it’s a good rule to live by on any marine surface when bonding two surfaces together

[@alexstubbins6298]

Looks good do you think it would work on the transom of an inflatable boat?

[@bathdivers-thebathsubaquac7070]

lol... funnily enough, I followed your previous video to mount a large piece of HDPE to the back of my RIB to use to mount a transducer, it worked great for the best part of a year, but I noticed yesterday that the block had fallen off on the drive... 5200 does stick really well to Fiberglass, but not at all to the HDPE, as suggested it holds for a while and then just peals off very cleanly. Can't find anywhere in the UK supplying Stern Savers at the moment, so it looks like I'm going to have to have another go with marine epoxy...

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

Bath Divers - The Bath Sub Aqua Club can you order from amazon? I’ve linked the one I used in the description.

[@bathdivers-thebathsubaquac7070]

@@mainetroutwhisperer Sadly not here in the UK... looks like it's US only

[@jbgray1960]

I just went and bought one. Should I install it as soon as it warms up. Or in the winter time 1/25/2021

[@no1stato]

Im just about to install one on my 3.7 metre tinny here in melbourne,just wondering if you guys installed it like this guy or made the stern pad level?

[@MrAlfixit]

Your video convinced me into purchasing a Stern Saver. Thanks!

[@themadcatter5849]

Just purchased a flat bottom center console. Thank you for the video. I was under the impression you had to drill holes. Wasn’t looking forward to holes on my $$$$$ boat. There is a company that installs fish finders for $250. Is it worth it to just do it yourself?

[@donovaninho]

Depends on your level of experience if you can do BASIC wiring you should be fine

[@therosses5]

I'm guessing you're happy with the placement of your transducer. When the other install failed, did you try moving it a bit to compare imaging results before placing it where you did this time?

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

I’m very happy with it

[@dieselfueler]

Do you have to tilt the motor way up to get the side imaging to work well? BTW thanks for the tip on the SternSaver.

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

dieselfueler no seems to work fine

[@jonathonbaker9926]

Will this work well with fiber glass boat??wanna mount a deapth finder on my Livingston with out drilling holes

[@walterjones3819]

Thankyou.😎👍

[@grace2258]

This is basically a commercial for Stern Saver. I'm not doubting it will do the job, just unnecessary to spend that money. Had you installed your first board with the same prep and glue, you would have been fine. Also, I highly recommend putting tape around the outside of the mounting area to make clean up easy after installation. The excess adhesive will squish onto the tape and not your hull.

[@LiLoTech]

GFlex. It'll hold. You'll need to saw it off with a multi tool flat blade or something similar.

[@garybennett2845]

Hey dude great video. Im just wondering how you find the yamaha 40hp engine. Ive had the same engine maybe 6 months just wondering do you have any trouble trolling for long periods. R carb problems as i hear this 40hp model 2006 i think is known for certain issues. Cheers

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

No issues at all. Things awesome. It sat 4 years before I owned it, so it took a little tuning at first

[@woopteedeewoopteedye]

Upvoted for the Chanel name alinéa. 👍

[@rabbinchannelkelautkita221]

thanks for info..👍 great..

[@skipee4589]

Did it still hold up to this day ?

[@datbuddah]

Will this hold to a pelican bass raider ???

[@tiov3001]

I always pack my gloves in my suitcase. Shout out to my boys in cell block 7!!

[@joegarza5708]

What size did you use?

[@225grasshopper225]

Thanks I was going to get me some of the 5200 , today. From watching your other video. Scratch that off the to-do list. Checked out the other stuff and it unavailable . so I am going to figure something else out. Thanks jay

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

Jay O'Rourke check eBay

[@starcrafttom]

This is late but if you use 5200 you have to cut shallow slots in the back of the plate and sand the spot on the boat. I have had several on for years. works great. just looks like he did it wrong.

[@PaulyV56]

@@starcrafttom 5200 used 12 years ago. Still holding.

[@m3528i]

So the stern saver requires a full depth sanding while avoiding making two tiny holes? I'd say if it has to come off I'd rather repair two holes instead of repainting my transom..

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

Personal preference I guess. No complaints so far

[@m3528i]

@@mainetroutwhisperer my hook2 arrives in 2 days and I'm still undecided... thanks for the video.

[@crappie72]

i wish i saw this before i used 5200 on my keel saver i made for my brand new polar craft boat, total nightmere ! 7 hours of picking off 5200 after epic fail and an infected finger to boot!

[@jonathanrall5091]

With 5200 you need to sand all painted surfaces and scuff up the back of the transducer plate

[@chrislastnamehere2740]

Although solution #2 is better looking, you would have been fine on #1 if you'd simply done what sternsavers has done for you (even with 5200, you'd likely have succeeded)... 1 - Sand/prep the paint (if powdercoat, removal is probably required, if standard paint, just scuffing it off to a point of non-oxidized layer would likely be sufficient (the paint might actually separate from the aluminum if the xducer was "hit", is the only consideration there)... 2 - Drill holes in the starboard material deep enough (but not all the way through) to hold epoxy just like the stern saver does. Then use an appropriately sized tap, to tap some threads into it (precision doesn't matter, fast and dirty is perfect) might not even be needed if the drilled holes are rough enough (if you used a burr mill for instance), but I'd do it for peace of mind.... This gives the epoxy a physical (not surface) bond into the starboard material. Once set, it's effectively an "epoxy screw". A few of those holes, and a solid surface bond with the boat (sanded paint, or ideally bare metal), and it's not going anywhere. 5200 even would likely work if it was to bare aluminum, although it might be flexible enough to "pop out" of the threads (I think it sets up pretty firmly though.) But any good 2-part epoxy that supports metal bonding such as JB Weld or 3m or loctite variants, etc, would do the trick at that point. Anyhow, good follow-up, you might want to adjust the title on the first video to indicate "updated - don't do it this way" or something to catch the eye, based on the comments to this one. my bass boat (fiberglass) had several pre-existing transducer holes (improperly sealed, long story, but I spent days trying to get the water to stop weeping out of the flotation foam that is encased (closed hull section) behind the designed-in transducer location (presurrized air into one hole constantly circulating, etc)... eventually when I'd decided enough enough was out, I over-drilled the holes, then packed with an epoxy/filler mix to seal up the "inner holes" and re-drilled. I then used a board (1/2" nylon cutting board, didn't have any starboard available, and I really like the ease of shaping and beveling with a band saw) and marine sealant (non-permanent, 4200 maybe, it's been years, don't recall?) just to seal up the back and screw areas a bit, to firmly mount my new transducer board to the boat, then used that for mounting new (sonar and sidescan) transducers to that area. Worked great, because I already had the screws in place to work with. I also used that same board at the helm, where the original (bought boat used) Lowrance was hanging off the side outside the windshield area bolted directly to the hull, with a GPS puck also screwed into the hull behind it (so about 7 screw holes)... My newer HDS units didn't fit "cleanly" in this area (hit the windshield due to both the original bracket angle (same holes reused) and height), and I didn't need the old GPS puck. So I filled the holes as above (marine epoxy and filler, with an approximately matching gelcoat color top-off) and then re-drilled the holes to allow use of 2" stainless screws. I then trimmed another piece of the "board" to match the lines of the boat hull, and drilled slightly counter-sunk holes (actually mill-drilled, so the pan heads fit flush onto the board compared to a conical countersink) for the hull mounting. I then lined up my head-unit, and marked out the holes, and then, from underneath, countersunk 3/4" stainless bolts upwards to mount into the HDS bracket. Once I bolted the bracket on, I remounted everything to the hull, and the new board is virtually invisible (and I extended it backwards several inches along the gunnel top, which provides substantial leverage against the HDS unit kicking sternward (basically, the 7 screws holding the base down to the hull, are under little stress, as the board flexes and gives with the forces of 70MPH runs through hard waves, but the entire assembly is strong enough that I sometimes use it as a handle to get myself up/down on the trailer rail in that area (it's an awkward spot to to step on the trailer for reaching into the cockpit, as the trailer begins running inwards (under the boat) before that area). Up front, the original bow mount sonar was set into a factory-molded 5" square (actually 4.6x5.1 or something like that, basically designed for an X125/520C model to sngly drop in) opening, that was foam-molded into the bow console (no way to resize it without destroying the factory console). Obviously my 7" HDS won't fit there. Behind it, is a rough-cut opening of similar dimensions in the actual fiberglass behind the console. Originally there was a small steel diamond-plate "backstrap" that was bolted to a blank plate (Maybe not factory original, no sonar was in the bow when I got it). I again got creative. It now has two pieces of lexan (maybe 1/8" thickness?, I will probably replace at some point with something stronger), one larger back plate, and a sized-to-fit the opening front-plate, with a cable pass-through hole, and 4 corner "bolt holes" to mount the sandwich together. The back plate has threaded standoffs used as nuts and spacers to keep the bolts in their holes when the front plate is not connected (otherwise they'd fall into the boat hull). Then the front plate, I've used wing-nuts and washers (washers are on all these, I just didn't mention that previously, including the helm mount plates), to secure it to the back plate (thus anchored to fiberglass from behind). Finally of course, the HDS bracket is mounted to that front plate. I've slightly offset the cable-passthrough holes so the back one is higher/farther forward (there is enough gap between the plates for the cables to negotiate the bend, I think I used 1" spacers), this way when taking a wave over the bow, it doesn't just flood the hull through the cable opening, just to minimize that impact. I mentioned possible replacement of the Lexan, because, strong though it is (it's held up for over 10 years now) I do see a LOT of flex in the system when hitting waves (enough that it scares me a bit sometimes)... however, I've actually taken a massive wave over the bow once that filled the cockpit area 6" deep with water (our poor rat terrier dog was under the passenger console when it happened trying to stay dry srom the spray, and suddenly was in an instant bathtub,) and no harm came of it, nothing has ever budged, but I'd rather go with something thicker and more flexible (Lexan CAN shatter) want to use something like 1/4-1/2" thick nylon board on each side (I actually have one ready to use, just haven't gotten my bucket of round-tuits). Just some thoughts/history to share of things I've learned/adapted over the years!

[@thomasgarvey5425]

Just some thoughts? Lol.. that was a novel! Good stuff..

[@Sisu2280]

Longest KZbin comment I've ever seen.

[@MotorCityMetalArt]

Cool looks like a great product but I'm wondering had you removed the paint and sanded to bare aluminum first. And maybe even drilled on the backside of your plastic before applying the 5200 like the stern saver if it would of held up longer. Either way it looks like they have a great product

[@mikestrohbusch5434]

can you mount 2 transducers on that piece? I have one for locating and the other for speed and temp

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

Maybe, but you might be able to get a larger size

[@sj-xb4yz]

So it fell off? what did you go with after? drill it? or is the smaller board with liquid epoxy the way you went? very confusing

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

Did you watch the video? Lol I used the stern saver product and it’s still on the boat today.

[@sj-xb4yz]

@@mainetroutwhisperer well.. you start your vid off with how bad things went... then the construction glue not holding.. then going to epoxy.... how long has the stern saver been on..? Surprised you didn't give up and go with stainless steel...

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

@@sj-xb4yz it’s been on a year

[@lyndseycaddell7623]

Mine held about a month took time to make shire I got it right

[@stevenv2190]

This is exactly what I need for my SeaDoo. The in-hull option for the transducer did not work out so well.

[@hulkhogan1942]

Do you have one of those fishing ones? 😍

[@stevenv2190]

@@hulkhogan1942 Sadly, no. 2004 GTX NA. The 2021 Fishpro Trophy finally has a swivel seat for the back!

[@OhioPrepperOne]

I have a tracker jon boat with factory camo paint job and i do NOT want to sand it down, i dont want to damage the paint at all, is there a product that will stick to the factory paint? The paint is pretty granular, ie rough, lots of texture to it. Thanks!

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

OhioPreparedness no I doubt it.. unless you get one of those magnetic mounts. I’d just get a large stern saver and sand it down and glue it on. If you use the template and tape it all off you will never see where you sanded it.

[@OhioPrepperOne]

@@mainetroutwhisperer Okie dokie, ill think about it, thanks!

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

OhioPreparedness maybe message them too. It might stick to that paint? Idk

[@osiyooverland]

I have a Camo painted boat as well. Brand new. Just sanded the paint using the Stern Saver template. Looks great. A lot better than drilling thru the transom.

[@gizmocarr3093]

If the last one you put on lasted two years it seems it wasn’t doing too bad of a job. The new one has better contact to the aluminum than before. Plastics are more glue friendly and bond together better so it is more likely they stay bonded. However, bonding aluminum to plastic is less effective. Aluminum expands and contracts from high and low temperature changes and so the hull goes from freezing cold to hot continuously during its lifespan. The hull vibrates more than a thicker fiberglass hull too. You really made no mistake at all. Drilling holes and using strong stainless steel brackets and fasteners is still the better answer to secure transduces. I use them and never had any problems with leaks. They make it easier to mount the transducer level and easy to check it says that way by checking it with a level once in a while.

[@SandmannOZ]

So it's been three years now... how is it working out for you? Is it still on your boat? Any problems?

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

It’s perfect. No issues

[@joycecasagrande2709]

How about a Seasucker Transducer mount

[@davidbertrand6884]

Will it mount to a plastic boat? 8-15-2020

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

David Bertrand believe so

[@allenbmooresharinginformation]

I suggest you take down the first video my friend.

[@baysinfisher6094]

Would this work on a fiberglass boat

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

Yes

[@RodMouthFishing]

What did u use to sand the boat

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

Just heavy sand paper

[@gphilpot1]

Well getting one of these seems to be near impossible. Google search has the first web link is highjacked. Amazon is out. None of the links from their page work. Wonder if the guy wasn't out of business.

[@tspecht610]

What is the point? If you are supposed to sand down to metal it seems it would be less evasive to just drill your tiny little holes.

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

The whole point is not to drill…. Lol.

[@darlenedanberry1883]

Where did you order Stern saver from

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

Darlene Danberry linked in the description

[@wargrunt2002]

They are sold at Bass Pro and Cabella's. Figured I'd put it here since those places are pretty much everywhere here in the US.

[@jbgray1960]

Cabellas

[@djf1019]

I know it’s a year later but try tackle warehouse. I just ordered one

[@anonimous596]

@@djf1019 no one sells it anymore - amazon, cabellas, bass pro all pulled it west marine also kinda makes me wonder why……

[@TriumvirVespasianus]

Block of 3/4" plywood and sikaflex pressed against the transom... Works everytime for me...and never comes off....you need a whole lot of acetone to remove it if you do take it off...😉

[@ronwallace7563]

So.....the question is, did this one work any better?

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

Yes! It’s Working great years later!

[@themackguyverchannel7713]

You should have slightly heated the tubes in hot water.

[@duck7927]

Underrated comment. I award you kind sur

[@WildBillandFriends]

Heat the glue in hot water before using. It will come out easier

[@embededfabrication4482]

isn't your drain hole plug in the wrong way???

[@garygravy1956]

Does this work on plastic boats?

[@natehogan7213]

Nice sled

[@qaradox]

Watch out for the prison strip search

[@rickysmith2248]

It's not saving the stern if you have to sand the paint off in my opin

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

Not gonna leak from sanding it… it might from drilling though.

[@matthewnewman5524]

You had no mechanical Adhesion you should have scuffed all the paint off of the boat in a perfect square then apply glue to both pieces the boat and the starboard it would’ve stuck

[@jamestobin2529]

I don't understand paying 50 bucks for 20 worth of parts.

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

James Tobin welcome to the fishing industry

[@jamestobin2529]

@@mainetroutwhisperer true that companies catch fisherman not fish.

[@arduinoNube]

30 bucks goes to the people who invented this design, tested the adhesives, marketed the product, and invested in the company from the beginning. It would have cost all of us more than 30 bucks to DIY all of that other work. :)

[@hansjas]

Stern saver uses a vhs adhesive sticker now …. No epoxy

[@larryd.collins7996]

Why don't you take down the first video? Just saying....

[@cameronm2203]

put tape across to hold, common sense